Back in the day, as a child growing up in the land of the long white cloud - New Zealand and later Australia - Thursday night was always takeaway night… and it was usually restricted to fish and chips (no complaints there) with a good dose of Wonder Woman spinning her magic on the tele. Even pizza was off the take-away menu back then….and Chinese food, well.... it was well and truly an unknown quantity. (Giving my age away really aren't I?) As time went on, the first of many Chinese restaurants began sprouting up across the western world in all their red and gold, chopstick wielding glory. If you had the luxury of dining out in one, it was considered a rather exotic experience. The epitome of kitschy 70/80's sophistication…these international establishments were true oriental gems. Their brightly lit facades with neon lights flashing names like Ming's Kitchen, Golden Dragon or Jade Palace cemented their cosmopolitan status - while inside, large, open plan restaurants heavily decorated with red and gold wallpaper, glitzy gold lion and dragon statues and chinese lanterns swinging with pride. Large round tables, were draped in the obligatory red or white table cloths, some with the 'Lazy Susan' turntables... and let's not forget those overcrowded fish tanks. These days, many Chinese restaurants really haven't changed all that much in appearance and feel. The names still ring true and the decor, well let's just say it's still got that 'Porpoise Spit' feel. (Muriel's Wedding fans will know what I'm talking about here - if not, just picture that slightly garish ambience that of course we all know and loved.) In Hong Kong, it's no secret that residents today like their Chinese local eatery to be bold and bright. The brighter the better. Fluorescent lighting if possible! These clientele are not here for a candle lit dinner for two, but a chatty, lively meal, where conversing with staff for much of the meal duration is seen as a sure sign of a good Chinese restaurant. (Mind you, I'm told in Mainland China, it's quite the opposite, with locals preferring private rooms to eat in (in the name of privacy and exclusivity)! Globally, while some of the traditional interior styles still reign supreme, thankfully the food is no longer limited to the tried and true Sweet & Sour Pork (often drenched in that bright pinky/orange sauce), the classic Honey Lemon Chicken and of course, the ubiquitous Fried Rice. Chinese cuisine outside of the East has come a long way. Yum Cha (which means "drinking tea") usually accompanied with a plethora of Dim Sum, is a popular weekend pastime for many an Aussie. Fried Dim Sim - a popular fusion of the East and West has resulted in the famous heavier, thicker version of the lightly steamed Chinese-style Dim Sum. It's probably fair to say, before I came to Hong Kong to live, I wasn't a huge fan of Chinese food….I didn't dislike it, but I was typically your standard 'fried rice and lemon chicken' ordering girl, who didn't have the die-hard dedication of someone who today, has been exposed to some of the tastiest 'chicken feet' in the land! (Just kidding… pork buns and turnip cake are much more my style.) Dim Sum literally means "Touch Your Heart" and three and a half years into my Asian experience, I reckon it's done just that! Served in small bamboo baskets with copious amounts of tea, according to Chinese custom these bite-sized dumplings are traditionally not supposed to be eaten at dinner time, but I say, give me Dim Sum all day, any day! The most popular kind in Hong Kong is 'Shao Mai' - steamed dumplings made of pork and shrimp, wrapped in a thin layer of wheat flour. During my most recent Dim Sum dining sensation, in the name of this post, I invited myself out the back for a peek into an authentic chinese kitchen. First things first, there's steam… not just a bit of smoke but a giant cloud of steam that catches in your throat, if you're clearly not used to it! What goes on in a Chinese kitchen is very much like watching a sacred ritual take place. Chinese kitchens are broken down into stations, based on the equipment they’re using - versus the western style kitchen stations which relate to the product they’re cooking. And at the heart of every Chinese culinary hotspot, the Wok! The distinctive bowl-shaped pan is used for everything from stir-frying to deep frying and making sauces. The only thing you don't use the wok for is to prepare rice. Trivial Fact: Historical influences have played a role in the style and shape of the wok; at various times throughout Chinese history, such as periods of famine, the ability to conserve food and eat well but cheaply was crucial. The shape of the wok ensures the cooking oil is distributed evenly, which means, essentially, less oil needs to be used. The food falls back into the pan and not over the edge during stir-frying, which is kind of handy! (Side Note: A little birdy tells me woks also catch fire very easily!) So, the Wok Station in a Chinese kitchen usually consists of four woks and if you're on wok number 1, my friend, you are officially the king pin! Then there's the BBQ station, Steamer station and Chopper station…….and never the twain shall meet. Repeat: If you're a chef cooking Peking Duck at the BBQ station, then you will never cross over and help out on, say the Steamer…. you will never go to the wok and fry up a few pieces of beef for a stir fry. No. Can. Do! Each station requires extremely different techniques and is considered to be a work of art, where cuisine is crafted with absolute precision. 'Chopping' can be such a delicate process with certain dishes requiring a two centimetre bean curd is sliced into 30 pieces! In very traditional style, food carving is also quite the art! Even Dim Sum is a competitive craft and can make or break the reputation of a restaurant in Hong Kong. If the Dim Sum is below expectations, visitor numbers will drop substantially. It's all about the texture -- the skin must be so thin, it's actually translucent and you can see the contents (which must be light and fresh) inside the dim sum. Chinese food must always be piping hot…and I mean so bloody hot, as a westerner you will surely burn your mouth on it. There are eight regional styles of chinese cooking from Huaiyang cuisine, which created the famous 'Salted Pork in Jelly' to the popular Sichuan cuisine which uses lots of hot pepper & chillies and is known for its seven tastes and eight flavours. “Seven tastes” refers to the seven basic flavors - sour, pungent, hot, sweet, bitter, aromatic, and salty. Tea Smoked Duck is a famous dish and Hot Pot is a signature of Sichuan Cuisine - where everybody chooses their own favorite ingredients to cook in the communal "hot-pot‟ and makes their own dipping sauce. Guandong/Cantonese cuisine favours Dim Sum and plenty of BBQ options including the whole roast suckling pig, while Shandong (eaten in the north) includes lots of braised dishes like abalone with shallots and garlic. All use very different ingredients and require quite different cooking skills. For more click on the different styles of cuisine across China click here. Chinese chefs are in overdrive across the country, with the most important and by far the biggest holiday of the year in full swing. Chinese New Year! Food is a central part of Chinese culture, uniting families, colleagues and friends, particularly in the Kong with most people living in relatively small apartments…meeting venues are invariably restaurants. And come Chinese New Year, it's all about the 'lucky' foods. For example, serving a whole chicken during Spring Festival symbolizes 'family togetherness,' noodles represent a long life (superstition says it's bad luck to cut them)! Both clams and Spring Rolls symbolize wealth; clams because of their resemblance to coins, and Spring Rolls because their shape is similar to gold bars. On the other hand, a food can have extra special significance during Chinese New Year because of the way the Chinese word for it sounds. The Cantonese word for lettuce sounds like 'rising fortune,' so it's common to serve a lettuce-wrap filled with other lucky food (it also explains why the dancing lions traditionally catch a lettuce in their mouths)! Tangerines and oranges are passed out freely during Chinese New Year and small orange trees guard every shop and home entry, because the words for tangerine and orange sound like 'luck and wealth.' Our fishy friends also play a large role in festive celebrations. The word for fish, "Yu" sounds like the words both for 'wish and abundance.' As a result, on New Year's Eve it is customary to serve a whole fish at the end of the evening meal. For extra luck, the fish is served whole, with head and tail attached, for a good beginning and ending for the coming year. To find out more about the timeless traditions and folklore attached to the Lunar New Year - check out my post here. "In With the Old, Out with the New." So from me to you….as the Year of the Snake draws to a close and the Year of the Horse gallops into fruition…. symbolising the year of energy, flamboyance and fun-loving frivolities, there's no better time to eat, drink and be merry! Kung Hei Fat Choi. PS. Don't forget the sweet stuff! According to legend, sugary snacks sweeten up prospects for the coming year….what's on the menu? Nian Gao (rice pudding), Jau Goks (crispy dumplings) candied fruits and seeds. … [Read more...]
Out with the old, in with the new…
"Kung Hei Fat Choi!" or as they say up north in China "Xin Nian Kuai Le!" Roughly translated, that's "Best wishes and congratulations. Have a prosperous and good year." 2013 was the Year of the Snake and the party started without me….after a month of Australian sunshine (make that heat waves, cyclones, tornadoes and flooding) I was headed back to a wintry Hong Kong, smack bang in the middle of what's unquestionably the 'big kahuna' on the Chinese calendar, Chinese New Year. Make no mistake though, I'd been under no illusions…CNY (for short) is coming! No sooner had Santa left the building, tinsel was unravelled from those perfectly-primped Christmas trees and in their place, lions, lanterns and Lai See emerged in all their red and gold glory. Anticipation littered the air for weeks as locals frantically prepared to farewell the Year of the Dragon and welcome the steely snake, slithering ever-closer to his moment in the sun. For the record, the snake doesn't have the same kudos as the dragon - dubbed the luckiest of the Chinese lunar years. If you're born a 'dragon' in China, it's safe to say you've hit the zodiac jackpot! A mythical legend, you'll walk through life the strongest, smartest and luckiest of all 12 animal signs. To give you an idea of the divine powers the Oriental Dragon wields, last year saw wedding planners literally run off their feet as the number of couples racing down the aisle sky rocketed and hospitals were inundated with mums who'd desperately timed those romantic rendezvous to ensure a much-coveted 'dragon' baby. 2013 and the soothsayers are out in force to warn of the perils of the slippery snake and his venomous bite. The word is, commitments and promises made will be sorely tested and romance will be put on the back burner as the agile and dangerous reptile weaves its way through 2013. The previous two "snake" years have seen the September 11 attacks in 2001 and the Tiananmen Square Massacre in China in 1989, making locals fearful of a rocky year ahead. Nonetheless, the snake can also promote ambition, wealth and power and Feng Shui experts are trying to encourage positive vibes for an harmonious year. If you're not familiar with Asia, about now, you might be thinking pffftt! what a load of poppy-cock! For non-believers and (grateful) expats it might be a chance to take a week long holiday, sit back and let the fun begin, but for locals it's much more than a few sleep-ins and respite from the daily grind. Firstly, there's a mad rush to get home…travelers literally cause gridlock as they scramble to be with family (if you live away and only come home once a year, this is the one occasion you make the trip). For many people it's the only holiday all year and so far over a billion people have hit the road to be with loved ones. Just as westerners like to ring in the New Year with parties and plenty of frivolity under the guise of starting anew - the same can be said for Chinese New Year but don't think you can get away with making a few half-hearted resolutions through the champagne bubbles (how is that New Year's fitness plan going by the way??) Nope if you're a CNY devotee it's serious stuff and it revolves around family, friends, food and a whole lot of highly essential Chinese customs. Mostly, it's about reconciling ….and that means forgetting all your grudges and wishing peace and happiness for everyone! Yes that's everyone! (So if you've been harbouring a sour taste in your mouth over that family feud, now's the time to swallow your pride and make amends.) This is a culture so sincere in its well-wishing, it takes saying Happy New Year to a whole new level! You really want to hope you stuck to your christmas budget because if you're around these parts over CNY you better have pockets full of money when you make your well-wishes. Red pockets that is. (I'm pretty sure in our first year in Hong Kong, we left ourselves a bit red-faced, unaccustomed to Chinese New Year etiquette.) They call them 'Lai See' in Hong Kong or "Hang Bao" in China….originally given to ward off evil spirits, these days they symbolize good luck and prosperity… and it's a sure bet tucked deep into everyone's winter jackets you'll find pockets overflowing with red envelopes. Banks are stretched to the limit as locals rush to get crisp new bank notes. (Crinkly old crushed-up notes simply will not do.) Basically, the lucky Lai See receivers are unmarried relatives and friends, employees and children! Everyone else step aside and be prepared to dish out the dollars. There's a "standard" token amount of a $20 dollar note in a red packet, but you can give as much as you like to those 'special' people. If you live in an apartment and most of us do, it's customary to give the doormen, concierge and so on Lai See. Married couples might be wise to give two packets to unmarried friends - giving just one I'm told signals your relationship is separating! (No wonder they looked at me strangely last year.) As a hotel manager my husband will shell out no less than $8000HK. (Guess now's not the time to bring up that new frock huh?!) Before you go galavanting with your red packets of lucky cash, tradition dictates things at home must be spic and span. It's critical to clear out the cobwebs before CNY begins if you want good luck and harmony to come your way. Yep! time to roll up your sleeves ladies and gentleman and get down and dirty with the dust-buster. (Take note: whatever you do, refrain from sweeping once CNY is underway…..this could very well sweep all the good luck right out the front door!) Many homes and most businesses see CNY as the time to bring in a Feng Shui master to ensure the year starts off on the right footing. He'll advise whether offices should be changed, walls painted, chairs moved...all to "improve the air." It's all about the flow of energy. If you've had an influx of resignations and too many employees calling in sick, maybe it's time to re-think your office space! All sharp knives must be put away (not in case you're feeling a little unstable) rather in case they cut through potential luck coming into the house. It might also be a good idea to invest in some small 'orange trees' for the pad. They represent wealth and prosperity. It's one of those 'the word sounds like' situations. In Chinese 'oranges' sounds the same as the word for 'gold' and also for 'lucky.' You get my drift? If you've racked up any debts, no ifs or buts, now's the time to repay them. Heading into the new year with a clean slate is paramount to future success. It will also hopefully mean you've got enough cash for the all important new year makeover. It's not just your house that needs to be in ship-shape, you'll reap the rewards for sprucing yourself up from top to toe. What better opportunity to purchase a brand spanking new suit or ladies some sexy stilettos for the first day of CNY and it's all in the name of maintaining the sanctity of an ancient tradition (now that's a shopping spree to remember)! Red underwear are also deemed part of the 'lucky' outfit. If you need a haircut, don't wait for the holiday to head down to the local barber for a snip. It's got to be done before the New Year Festival begins. Why? According to Chinese mythology, the word 'fat' in the New Year greeting 'Kung Hei Fat Choi' sounds the same as the word 'hair'….(here we go again) and because having a lot of hair is seen as a statement of wealth, if you take the scissors to it, you're effectively cutting your money loose. In fact, some people don't even wash their hair at all over CNY for fear of bringing bad luck upon themselves. (You wouldn't want to let any of it slip away down the plug-hole would you)! If you don't like the cut, try not to shed any tears on New Year's Day either, this can mean you'll cry for the rest of the year. Also on the to do list, five days before New Year, many households like to offer a sacrifice to the Kitchen God by putting sweet, sticky food, like sticky rice or lotus seed in front of his picture. He looks over families and apparently reports to 'Jade the Emperor' on who's been naughty or nice (a bit like Santa really). It's hoped the offering of sweet food will encourage him to give a "sweet" report to the emperor and also stick his mouth together so he can't tell anyone about the questionable deeds he's witnessed. On the eve of Chinese New Year, supper is a family feast and fire works at midnight mark the beginning of the new year. It's believed the noise of the fireworks will drive away any evil spirits. Early the next morning, children wish their parents a healthy and happy new year - in return they receive Lai See. (Hello Toyworld!) At midnight on the first day of Chinese New Year, locals head to their local temple to place an incense stick. This I'm told brings luck for the entire year, so probably not one to miss. Then there are the zestfully colorful community events taking place around the city, most notably the ubiquitous 'Lion dance'…… It started thousands of years ago to scare away evil spirits. Two people perform at the head and the tail synchronizing their moves to music from a drum, gong and cymbal. The Lion has a mirror on his head to frighten away evil spirits with their own reflections. As the courageous lion runs along the streets visiting different places, as odd as it may sound he looks for green vegetables like lettuce, hung above the doors of houses or businesses. Hidden in the leaves is, you guessed it, Lai See. The lion must eat the lettuce and red packet and scatter the leaves to symbolize a fresh start for the new year and the spreading of good luck. Even better, should a family member or the owner of a business stick his or her head into the lions’s mouth, the year to come will even be more lucky and prosperous. Get dunking! The Festival of Lanterns on the first full moon of the New Year marks the end of the festivities (usually on the 15th day). A 500 year old tradition, it celebrates the return of light, the coming of spring and the beginning of the growing season. So is it all superstition gone mad, rituals gone wrong? Perhaps to some of us unfamiliar with these customs it can seem like a whole lot of mumbo jumbo, but to those who stem from generations of Chinese families it's all about honoring and respecting their ancestors. Things may be changing in China but taking pride in ancient traditions that have seen a culture of people live harmoniously and peacefully for thousands of years is still one thing that remains the same. So from me to you, Kung Hei Fat Choi! … [Read more...]