"Ever heard of the movie Ground Hog Day? Well that pretty much sums up how we feel." Those are the words of my good friend, Jenna, living in Xi'an, North West China with her husband and two girls, nine and thirteen. "With school closed until at least the 18th of February, it's get up, breakfast, exercise, play with toys, boardgames, cook, repeat," she says. Xi'an is in Shaanxi Province which shares a border to the south with Hubei Province, and its capital Wuhan, the epicentre of the Coronavirus outbreak. Currently over 20,000 people worldwide have developed the virus with over 400 confirmed deaths. While that figure is steadily rising, and has now overtaken the death toll from SARS, it's still only a two per cent fatality rate. But China's Communist Party is taking no chances. At least not at face value. The outbreak has prompted a response unlike any other in modern history, with Chinese authorities locking down many cities and towns around Wuhan, the city of 11 million where it's believed the virus originated in a market selling wild animals. That's tens of millions of people effectively shut off from the outside world. Anyone who's ever been to China will tell you, there's rarely a quiet moment in the nation with the world's largest population. The streets are at best, chaotic - humming with people, cars, busses, motorbikes, food carts, and street cleaners, day and night -- all fighting for their space amongst the pandemonium. The noise can be almost deafening. But not this month. "It feels very eery, like a ghost town, everything is closed down. The only places that are required to stay open are the supermarkets and hospitals. At our complex one gate is completely sealed off, with one left open for us to get out and go shopping. No one from outside the building is allowed in. No family, no friends." "The days are still and far too silent for this city of 9 million people." says Jenna, who having lived in China for 13 years, has seen it all. Her main concern though is the millions who sell fruit and veggies at the local wet markets or run local restaurants. "How are they going to get an income?" she wonders. "At least the big companies are looked after by the government." An Australian friend Robyn, who's been in China for nine years, and was due to return home to Australia any day now (flights depending) is feeling bereft that there will be no goodbyes in person, no last hot pot meals, just a quiet exit. "We are now very isolated in this crowded city," she says. She has a friend who lives in the south east of Henan, very close to the border of Hubei Province, just three hours drive from Wuhan. She tells her, all roads into my village are barricaded. "So instead of the normal flocks of people returning to celebrate Spring Festival, my village is very quiet. Everyone is bored and strangely no groups of people are milling around talking and no children are playing." Temperature taking is the new norm across the Middle Kingdom. Officials in full Hazmat-style body suits are taking temperatures at random, catching people when they go out, and when they return home, and everything is being recorded. Police and security guards are knocking on people's doors to check if anyone in the household's feeling unwell, is harbouring any visitors or has travelled anywhere in the past week. And in a nation that survives on Taobao deliveries with thousands of little Tuk Tuks weaving in and out of laneways delivering packages to one and all 24/7, now, all deliveries are left at the gates, making contact minimal. Messages come through on We Chat, the What's App equivalent, informing people there will be 'centralised spraying of medicinal drugs by aircraft." What drugs nobody is really sure. The communal areas in Jenna's apartment are regularly sprayed down with vinegar, while a friend's complex is doused in bleach. Public transport is down to a bare minimum. Didi the Uber equivalent has stopped and taxis are few and far between. If you do manage to hale a taxi and they stop, you need to show your passport; all details are recorded including where they picked you up and dropped you off. In Wuhan, naturally, things have reached another level with almost everything closed. Bibby, a Chinese local says, people are told not to go out unless it's an absolute emergency. "Supermarkets are open for a limited time from 10am to 6pm with meat and veggies the most difficult to buy, and always the first thing to run out." Face masks, which have usually only been an accessory for foreigners protecting themselves against the heavy pollution are now mandatory, or face a hefty fine. Hotel General Manager, Peter, in Shenzhen, China's far southwest, had just come through the border crossing from Hong Kong after evacuating his teenage daughter, when he messaged me. "It's unheard of but almost no-one is at immigration and everyone going through has to fill in a health declaration." He has 400 hotel staff due back from various provinces around China after Chinese New Year and is renting rooms to quarantine them. Meantime, in Hong Kong, thousands of medical workers have gone on strike, demanding the city’s government shut down all of its borders with mainland China, to keep out the spread of the virus they call WARS. Many foreigners have chosen to leave the city which is already reeling from months of pro-democracy protests, not to mention the 2003 SARS epidemic which still weighs heavily on the city. Hong Kong local, Mona, says back then, they all worked together to fight the disease but 2020 is very different. "We urged the government to close the borders as quickly as possible but they are not listening." "Because of no planning the supply of masks is extremely tight and people are queuing up for four to five hours to buy just one box of masks, with some stores selling them for HKD900 (US$115). Hong Kong infectious disease experts are urging the government to take 'draconian' measures, estimating as many as 44,000 people could be infected in Wuhan, a figure far higher than official numbers. Amongst the uncertainty, it's believed the epidemic could peak around the end of April, early May. This article from Well Women explains why, despite the risk, so many expats are still choosing to stay in China. For them, ground hog day or not, it's still home and in many instances, probably safer than travelling. Nicole Webb is a Sydney Journalist, Writer and Speaker who spent seven years in China. Her debut memoir 'China Blonde' will be out mid 2020. … [Read more...]
Travelling to China: Where to Go and What to See!
Having chalked up almost two years in China, I often get asked advice on where to go and what to see, so I thought it was high time I put together a 'go to' post, if the Middle Kingdom's on your bucket list. Given the vastness of China, we've seen a mere blip of the world's most populous nation that's home to 661 cities. Nonetheless, we've managed to tick off quite a few, on the journey thus far! If you've got the urge to come and see what all the fuss is about and want the adventure of a lifetime, here are my top recommendations, for first timers, at least. First Stop: Shanghai Given that most airlines fly direct to Shanghai from most cities across the globe, China's biggest and brightest city is probably a good place to start exploring this unique part of the world. This city of 24 million people is buzzing with all the excitement of modern day China. With a skyline that's literally 'out of this world', Shanghai is renowned as the 'Paris of the East!' Bustling with a charismatic fusion of the East and West, the city has a unique blend of the sassy and sophisticated with the culturally quaint essence that is 'old China' running through her veins. Dip your toes in Shanghai and gradually get a feel for life in China, without throwing yourself in the deep end. For a list of what to do and see... click on my post: Shanghai Shenanigans: A Weekend in the Paris of the East Note: There are two international airports - Pudong International Airport and Hongqiao International Airport, the latter is closest to the city centre. Two to three days should be enough time to indulge in the city high life... Hangzhou If you've got extra time in your schedule, take a side trip down to the place they call 'China's Paradise on Earth!' Hangzhou is just a 45 minute train ride from the metropolis of Shanghai so it makes an easy day trip. The top must-see...the country's famous West Lake (just steer clear of national holidays)! If you're up for staying overnight, the area is also famous for its Longjin Tea Plantation. For more on what to do in Hangzhou or if you're unsure whether or not to add it to your itinerary, check out my post: China's Paradise on Earth: Hangzhou is it Worth the Visit? If you're up for another day trip from Shanghai and a taste of mini Venice in the East - head to one of the area's classic ancient water towns. I'll be honest with you, we missed these on our first trip but visiting one is still on the bucket list! Beijing If you've made the decision to visit China, it's hard to go past the nation's capital! The great political hub where the past and future collide in a hot pot of cultural ideologies. Home to seven UNESCO World Heritage sites, you can immerse yourself in China's rich history and get a sense of the how the headquarters of the world's second fastest growing economy ticks. Of course, access to one of China's greatest treasures, the Great Wall of China is just a stone's throw from the city (well, a two hour drive). A once in a life time moment -- you can soak up tradition and the mere scale of the great wall itself, which stretches across China. (Just be prepared for heart palpitating chair lifts up and a toboggan ride down that will have you hanging on by the skin of your teeth!) Beijing has a cold winter and very hot summer so choose your times wisely. March to May and September to November are ideal. For more on what to do in China's capital: check out my post: Visit Beijing: The World's Super City in the Making Harbin Time permitting and depending on the time of the year you're visiting (early January to mid February), take a trip up to Harbin to see the famous ice sculpture festival. Not for the faint-hearted, Harbin has without doubt one of the most bitterly cold winters in China, but if you're game -- I have it on good authority that the "Ice City" is pretty dam spectacular! At night these gigantic snow and ice sculptures are bathed in a kaleidoscope of brilliant colour. (Just think -- all of those Frozen fans visiting their own real life Arendelle!) A two hour flight from Beijing, Harbin bears the influences of Eastern Russia, so harbours its own distinct flavour. (Tip: I'm told you don't want to go too late in winter or the sculptures start to melt and get a little dirty.) Xi'an Of course, there's no visiting China without taking a trip to the so-called cultural cradle of civilisation! Pop in to say hi to those world-famous Terracotta Warriors (oh and me)! There's no shortage of things to see in this historical city, from a bike ride around the ancient city wall to the mesmerising and utterly mad Muslim Quarter, the 1300 year old temple we like to call our neighbour, Big Wild Goose Pagoda.... and an opportunity to soak up what I like to call the "real China!" For more - this post has got you covered: 48 Hours in Xi'an: Top 5 Things to Do! Note: Xi'an has two seasons, a cold winter and a hot summer, so if you don't want to get caught in the icy winter pollution or summer furnace, the best times to visit are between March and May and September and November. Xi'an is just under two hours flight from Beijing. Luoyang If you have time for a side trip from Xi'an, I would highly recommend catching the high speed train to Luoyang. It's a one and a half hour trip through the countryside to the city of six million and from here you can visit the mystical Shaolin Temple high up in the Song Shan Mountains -- this is the birthplace of Buddhism and is still an active monastery today, as well as being home to the world's largest Kungfu academy. The world famous Longmen Grottos are a 45 minute drive from Luoyang and here you can get up close and personal with incredible gigantic sculptures carved into the side of cliffs that are still clearly visible centuries later. For more information on visiting these hot spots, check out my post Kungfu But No Panda: Welcome to 3rd Tier China. Tibet Sustaining spectacular landscape, spiritual traditions and a mythical-like culture, the Buddhist region of Tibet is a once in a life time wonder....which also boasts the world's highest peak, Mt Everest. But this is a magical place in which you need time up your sleeve to visit. At around 3000 metres above sea level, Tibet is the highest region on earth so it takes time to acclimatise, which means ideally at least four to five days in the region and even better, stretching the journey there over several days to avoid altitude sickness on arrival. (Note: Altitude sickness doesn't discriminate, so regardless of age, gender or fitness there's generally no rhyme or reason as to who gets hit and who doesn't.... If you suffer from any illnesses, you should definitely check with your doctor first if you do plan to go to Tibet.) Experts say, taking the train to Tibet makes acclimatising easier......but you can easily fly from many cities in China, including Xi'an, Chengdu, Beijing and Shanghai. It is difficult for non-Chinese citizens to travel independently in Tibet with various restrictions on foreign tourists. All foreign travelers are required to join an organized tour operated by authorized travel agencies and Chinese authorities often close Tibet to foreign tourists altogether in March. If you have the desire for adventure, take time to schedule a trip to the place they call the 'roof of the world' into your itinerary. Chengdu If you love cute and furry teddy bears, aka Giant Pandas - Chengdu is the place to see them in China. Just a short one hour flight from Xi'an, Sichuan Province is where you'll find the majority of these furry critters lounging about, just chewin’ on bamboo. It’s predicted just over a thousand live in the wild and the China Conservation and Research Centre in Chengdu is home to around 80 of the provinces most famous residents. Head to Chengdu for an overnight trip. For more check out my post Pandas in Chengdu: Don't Mind if I Do! Yangtze River Yangtze River known as Cháng Jiāng - or longest river is the largest in China and the third largest in the world after the Nile in Africa and the Amazon in South America. It spans over 6000 kilometres and traversing eleven provinces and cities from west to east! Tourists can enjoy the stunning scenery of the Three Gorges while exploring the ancient cultural sites along the river. There are a myriad of different packages, boats and routes to take so you'll need to pick your package carefully... whether you take one that winds from Beijing to Shanghai over 10 days or just a few days between Chongqing and Wuhan, there are many options. I'm yet to tick this off my list but for more information, check out these sites: The Travel China Guide The Yangtze River Cruise Guide Guilin One of the most beautiful and quaint places I've seen in China, Guilin has definitely earned it's nickname ‘Shan shui jia tian xia’ meaning Guilin’s ‘mountain and water scenery is the best under heaven’. Guilin city is the stepping stone to places like Ping An Village where you can see the China of old in all her glory. From Guilin Airport, Ping An is a 2.5 hour drive up into the hills.... spend a night here and soak up the unique and rich culture of this 600 year old village that oozes unrivalled charm amongst a setting of stunning rice terraces. A world away and a breath of fresh air from China's manic side! Catch a ferry up the river to Yangshuo and marvel at the limestone karsts that jut from the sea in their mesmerising shapes and sizes. No wonder they call it a ‘jade ribbon winding among thousands of Karst Hills.’ Yangshuo Village is the perfect place for a fun adventure. Ride bikes along the river path or catch a bamboo raft and glide your way down the river. This post will give you the lowdown! China's Pearl of the Orient: Why Guilin is Compulsory Viewing! Hong Kong It's not part of the mainland, but my advice is after all of that adventure, you need to end your trip on a high note....perhaps amongst Hong Kong's glittering sky scrapers? The 'city that never sleeps' is home to 8000 plus restaurants, not to mention some beautiful beaches and hiking trails. Oh and let's not forget the fabulous shopping! Finish off your amazing trip to the East with a relaxing couple of days in the fragrant harbour. Hong Kong gets very humid, so avoid the blazing summer months from June to August. Travelling to Hong Kong? This page has it all. Oh and if you're still not convinced...check out my post Four Good Reasons You Need to Travel China If you are convinced.... don't forget to read this! Travelling to China: Top Ten Things to Pack! Happy Travelling! This is China. Pssst... feel free to message me with any further questions and I'll try to help. Nicole@mintmochamusings.com … [Read more...]
Travelling the Famous ‘Silk Road’ in the 21st Century: Will You Take the Journey?
Amongst the plethora of news that permeates our daily lives from the tele, the radio, the internet, our inbox, social media….there's a small chance you may have heard (or read) a brief snippet about the re-emergence of the historic SILK ROAD? You may or may not have given it a fleeting thought….perhaps a brief 'What is that?' 'Where is that, again?' Let me enlighten you! In the broadest sense, it is the oldest overland trade route linking the ancient world from the East to the West. 2000 years ago, everything from exquisite cottons, exotic spices to metals and ceramics, scrolls of paintings, even gunpowder and of course piles and piles of cascading silk in every vivid color conceivable was carried along on the backs of camels, ferried from one side of the world to the other. By default, the Silk Road has come to my attention with a little more vigor of late because 'Xi'an' was once the eastern most point on this now renowned ancient trading route. You may have heard me mention before that Xi'an has been a city of great significance. (And of course as every local will tell you, it still is!) ;) The capital of 13 dynasties over 1200 years, Xi'an is by no means to be underestimated. And now, it looks like it may return to its former glory with a pledge from Chinese President Xi Jinping to rebuild the Silk Road - in his 'One Belt, One Road' initiative. So perhaps you're wondering why this city, seemingly in the middle of nowhere became such a significant hub for trade in the first place? At the risk of turning this into a history lesson and boring both of us senseless, I'll be as short and sweet as possible with the details. It formerly began in the Han Dynasty (around 206 BC to 220 AD) when emperors got word there was a rich and strong state in the West, (namely India). The Han Emperor 'Wu Di' sent his men to investigate but they were captured along the way (for ten years no less). Managing to escape a decade later, amazingly they set off continuing the mammoth journey to India. Emperors soon realized the huge potential for trade and commerce and the travelers were sent back along the vast and arduous stretch with an abundance of items in their load, including China's famed silk, which quickly became a hit and reached as far as Rome, where it became a valued commodity. (Until this time, silk in China was precious and protected. Reserved exclusively for the Chinese ruler and his wife, inside the palace they wore robes of pure white silk, outside yellow was the colour of the season.) Gradually though, it became more acceptable for all classes of society to wear tunics made from the prized silk. Then it became used for industrial goods like musical instruments and fishing lines, even paper… At one point it was as valuable as gold and farmers even paid their taxes in silk. Thus, the Silk Road began in Xi'an (which was then known as Chang'an) and wove through the Hexi Corridor (West of the Yellow River) to Dunhuang, where it divided into three routes, the southern, the central and Northern. All wound through unmarked and treacherous pathways along the edges of deserts and over mountain roads, through the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous region as far as Pakistan, India and Rome. Trivial Fact: The Silk Road is actually a collective name given to three ancient trade routes…the Silk Road in the North west of China, the Southern Silk Road and the Silk Road on the Sea. Caravans of camels stretching as far as the eye could see, one behind the other, wound their way through rugged terrains day and night carrying important cargo. According to history the two humped camels (bred specifically for the Silk Road) were the most capable of managing the diverse landscape. Few people traveled the 6,500 kilometre Silk Road stretch from one end to the other as great explorer Marco Polo did in 1271. His detailed descriptions of China's culture, politics and economy encouraged and inspired other Westerners to travel to this vast land in the East. For China, the effects of the Silk Road on industry were felt immediately and as you might imagine, the birth of the Silk Road brought all sorts of strange and wonderful ideas to China --- politics, family relationships, philosophy and religion were forever exposed to new concepts. This was the original information super-highway…carrying everything from goods to philosophy (even disease)! In 652, a Chinese Monk returned from India after spending 18 years studying Buddhism..with him he brought manuscripts and Buddhist texts to be transcribed into Chinese. These were housed in the temple which ironically stands tall directly across the road from the Westin Hotel…The Big Wild Goose Pagoda. Meantime, Xi'an was a hustle and bustle of activity. Outside Xi'an's majestic city wall, traders camped in colorful tents; clusters of camels were tied up outside the wall….while merchants offloaded and stocked up on supplies. The frenzied trade from Arab merchants saw the emergence of the colorful, vibrant hub that is today one of Xi'an's most famous tourist destinations, the Muslim Quarter. Merchants and Silk Road traders locals called the 'Hui' people settled here and many married Han Chinese women. Today many of their descendants still remain here. A tight knit community, the Muslim Quarter covers several blocks and houses 20,000 people, including ten mosques. A buzzing hive of activity, a unique blend of Muslim culture and Chinese tradition is on display in the maze of narrow lane ways, branding a multitude of traditional food and souvenir stalls. Veer off the main stretch and you'll see fascinating sights as the locals busily go about their day. Wooden bird cages sit at the feet of retailers, rickety bikes lean up against small shops, and heavy cauldron-like pots bubble away out the front, wafting delicious smells from traditional dumplings to baked bread, tasty meat skewers and crisp toffee, even fresh pomegranate juice, pressed on the pavement. So while it's clear the Muslim Quarter is alive and well today, what happened to the good old Silk Road? Eventually, overland trade just became increasingly dangerous and travel by sea was naturally more popular; trade along the Silk Road declined and by the end of the 14th Century it was almost non-existent. You can still see the ruins of the once flourishing capitals that dotted the Silk Route. Five centuries later, and the current President of China has flagged the idea of a rebirth of the Silk Road, an Economic Belt if you like (which is of course being hotly pursued by the world's global powers, eager to solidify their influence in the East and West.) It was 2103, when President Xi Jinping first made the announcement, but ironically it barely got a mention in the global media. Two years later it's a different story. As the centerpiece of of the President's foreign policy and an international economic strategy, it's all systems go. Goodbye camels and hello trains that will be capable of transporting goods 12,000 kilometres from China to the Mediterranean, much master than by sea. China's challenge -- to design this new super highway while reducing prohibitive import and export tariffs so business between the East and West can thrive. It has the potential to channel 150-million tourists to those countries along the new Silk Road. China also plans to attract 85 million tourists on home soil. The estimated cost: $21-trillion. Currently there are 200 projects underway, including $80 billion dollars to upgrade connectivity with at least 15 new regional air hubs in places like Xi'an, Xiamen and Kunming. 21 years ago, 19 countries gathered in Uzbekistan to discuss the rebirth of this legendary route…today the reality is closer than ever. So the next time you hear or see a snippet on the news about the mystical Silk Road….you'll understand the significance in reinventing this historic trade route, particularly for Xi'an. Currently the biggest city in the country's north west, in the next couple of decades it will supposedly double its urban population to become a mega-city! Stay tuned. This is China! … [Read more...]
“Mad Max” Scenes! The School Run in China!
So the truth of the matter is, I may well have been heard (from across the miles) whinging and moaning a few times (just a few) about the hour and a half (plus) round trip to take my daughter to school, here in China each morning. (Especially mid-winter!) But…(there's always a but)… i'll let you in on a little secret: it's actually one of the highlights of my day. (Yeh, I lead an exciting life, I know!) As an expat (especially one living in a 5-Star bubble) it's easy to avoid the real world in which you've been plonked in….and pretend you're just on a stay cation (kind of). So my forced early morning plunge into the real world is invigorating, to say the least! For starters, I'm not a morning person, so the fact that it gets me up and (presentable for the outside world) early, is not entirely a bad thing. Most of all though, I am fascinated by the kaleidoscope of color I see flying by me on the daily 45 minute journey from one side of town to the other. The eye opening sights and the cacophony of sounds have me permanently mesmerized (which often includes the crackle of fireworks, at 9am, no less)! Like any city, it's a busy time of day….and here it's a patchwork quilt of hustle and bustle in hair-raising fashion… And it's not just on the roads. I'll see workers starting the day by dancing in unison to a particularly well choreographed beat on the side of the road…(team building at its best). In winter, mini open fires are breathing a toasty warmth at chilled workers starting the day outdoors. Some people are already snoozing, in the most unlikely spots (like the side of a busy highway)! Majong games are underway…. and the elderly are exercising up a storm in local parks. Cleaners in their now familiar bright orange uniforms dot every street corner with their makeshift straw brooms, dare I say, rather aimlessly sweeping up the rubbish (not to mention dirt…they like to sweep the dirt). Water trucks cruise to the tune of "It's a small world" spraying away the dust. Street food carts line footpaths catching the work crowds for breakfast. Whatever the season, the daily drive through the manic, bumper to bumper traffic includes bikes, lots of them. Until 20 years ago, there were no cars on Xi'an's roads, so this is a city with a mammoth bike riding culture. Testament to this, is every conceivable type of bike on the road..all idling along amongst the fast cars (old and new) and snuggling beside ridiculously overcrowded busses. Three wheelers, Tuk Tuks, electric bikes, bikes with trailers, tiny push bikes with overgrown men….or one of the myriad of bright green bikes you can hire at numerous bike stations planted all over the city. Many are loaded up with precariously balanced goods including everything from white goods (i'm talking fridges and the like) to sky-high piles of rubbish, even mattresses and people, so00 many people, all on one bike sandwiched together for their morning run. Safety is naturally questionable. Crash helmets are optimal and very few are worn. Although I do see the odd "Village People" style helmet perched on the top of someone's head. Side-saddle is pretty mandatory for the ladies, often riding on the back. Texting/talking on your phone, perfectly acceptable, as is riding in the back of a trailer in the middle of the city. Umbrellas are the accessory du jour. Rain or shine, brightly coloured brollies (some edged with lace, others with spectacular patterns) are wielded to protect from the elements. Specially created umbrellas act as rainproof roofs never failing in the most blustery conditions. Raincoats come in a variety of shapes and sizes….some made to fit two people, some made to fit you and your bike. In winter, no one rides without big, warm gloves attached to the handle bars. It's never ever dull and I spend most of my time frantically trying to capture what I see, on camera (usually with little return for my investment). I know! Trying to take a photograph in a moving vehicle is largely futile! (For the record, I'm not driving!) Although here, no one would bat an eyelid if I was trying to snap a shot whilst behind the wheel! Here tackling the roads as a driver is an event like no other I've seen. I thought Hong Kong roads were wild…. looking back, they seem tame and (shock horror) rather orderly. Here it's a complete mish mash of busses, cars, bikes and people all vying for a spot almost seemingly oblivious to each other. But ironically, the system, whatever it is, works!! Most of the time, anyway. I've observed, that, on the whole, here in Xi'an, cars on the road don't really ever stop on their journey. By that I mean, there are very few traffic lights and everyone is just moving forward (sideways and backwards) albeit rather slowly….weaving in and out…but rarely do they grind to an actual halt. Invariably, this is not helping me to capture a good shot! And I don't think my driver would be too happy if I started asking him to stop every 30 seconds so I could snap the picture. Every few days though, somehow, I do manage to get a half decent one, which I've been saving to put together in this one post for your viewing pleasure. Hopefully you'll find it as much of a fascinating assault on the senses as I do. The longer I'm here, naturally the more I learn about this city and what makes it tick. Why it is what it is. I'm told, until just a few years ago, locals could more or less get their driver's license without too much effort. These days things are a little more strict and you must register with a driving school but there is no set number of driving lessons. Who needs practice eh! At first glance, it seems like drivers here drive well, terrible! (The saying getting your license in a cornflakes packet seems rather apt!) It's not uncommon to see people in brand new, rather slick cars 'stuck,' simply unable to drive them from point A to B. They've literally driven them off the showroom floor without so much as a driving lesson. It doesn't seem to matter. People (rather comically) expect this. It's probably why the rules are so few and far between. No one sticks to their lane, ever (unless on the freeway) and very very few drivers use those things we call 'blinkers'…and guess what, no one gives two hoots. (Or maybe they do?!) These people have a much more powerful tool at their disposal….it's called the mighty horn!! The horn seems to be the answer…the thing that allows drivers to weave in and out of traffic in any fashion they choose. Crossing into four lanes of oncoming traffic without so much as a hesitant foot on the break is completely normal. (For the first few months, I literally closed my eyes on the run!) The beeping is the one constant in your day! It's loud, prolonged and ear splitting! Night and day! Initially, I assumed there must be a lot of angry drivers out there. I mean, where I come from, beeping at someone means you're pretty peeved. Road rage is all the rage! Here though it acts as a type of 'warning' system. A friendly nudge, if you like (moments before the nudge)! "Hey I'm coming up behind you, move to the side"…."Hey small car, I'm moving into your lane move over…" Hey person, I'm right beside you, be careful." No one is offended by this courtesy beep…they just move ever so slightly out of the way. Interestingly, come exam time in school though, the government bans all beeping! Cars come within inches of each other (and people) but mindbogglingly rarely collide! I've seen very few major accidents around the city….the speed limit rarely gets over 40 - usually a few minor bingles are visible…which themselves cause more chaos because unless both parties can agree who's at fault, they must stay put in the exact spot they collided until the police arrive (which can take awhile). My small person and I have had the pleasure of being stuck giggling nervously in the back seat after a 'bump' with another car, while traffic edged past us in every direction on a very busy highway. (It wasn't ideal to get out….and have a gazillion Chinese men gawking at the whiteys!) The same goes for crossing the road. There's absolutely no set rule. Most people just step out without so much as a sideways glance over their shoulder… No body really waits until the little 'green' man says it's safe to cross (because it's not). Cars still keep driving directly at you without slowing down. It's you who needs to stop and let them pass, not the car. I'm always amazed more people don't get run over but somehow everyone manages to narrowly miss one another. It sounds manic (and a little frightening I know) but once you get used to it, the heart failure moments are minimized - mind you teaching the four year old road rules is probably out of the question! The one and only rule you need to remember, whoever is bigger gets to go first! There's no mistaking you're in China. It's a school run with serious attitude! This is China! … [Read more...]
Ni Hao Xi’an: The Birth Place of Ancient Civilisation
Warning: this is not a history lesson but it may involve the words ancient, museum, monuments, ruins and dynasties! Three months into this relationship, it's time we learned a little bit about the new city in my life and its colorful past. Xi'an or "西安" -- literally translated means "Western Peace." I'm pretty confident though, most "westerners" as such have heard little about this enthralling city that - at first glance - is easy to pass off as merely another blip on China's monstrous radar of no less than 656 cities! But don't be fooled by this time-honoured nook, nestled in the country's north west. Xi'an along with the distinguished cities of Rome, Cairo and Athens, is hailed as one of the birth places of ancient civilization. And you thought we were in nowheresville! Impressive huh? Proud Xianese will tell you: if China were a tree; Beijing is its branches, Shanghai its leaves and Xi'an, its roots! 3100 years in the making, for 1200 of those, 13 dynasties placed their capitals in Xi'an - including Zhou, Qin, Han and the Tang dynasty (which by the way, until the Ming Dynasty in 1369 was known as Chang'an). China is a country ruled by a rich history of remarkable dynasties until 1911... and in Xi'an each one marked a period in time where the country's rulers (who typically originated from the one family until the final King was overthrown) played a major role in the city's momentous evolution. Under the Qin Dynasty in 221 to 206 BC, China was unified for the very first time. The first Emperor Qin Shi Huang - today well known for ordering a cast of thousands to construct his mammoth mausoleum and the now world-famous Terracotta Army, to guard it. Read about that 8th Wonder of the World, here. During its heyday, Chang'an was considered one of the largest and most populous cities in the world! Around AD 750 it was known as the "million people's city." Chinese records estimate around 800,000–1,000,000 lived within the city walls. In the Han Dynasty, Xi'an became the military and political centre of China - the Asian gateway to Europe. This strategic and economic importance was mainly due to its central position in China. The roads leading to several other major provinces including Sichuan, Hubei and Henan all converged here - with the mountainous country surrounding the Wei River basin - known as the cradle of Chinese civilization. There were only two roads through to the south, and two through mountainous Gansu to the west, thus forming the beginning of the ancient Silk Route. The legendary Silk Road was a series of trade and cultural transport routes 6,500 kilometers long, connecting the West with the East - linking traders, merchants, pilgrims, monks, soldiers, nomads, and urban dwellers from China and India, all the way to the Mediterranean Sea. By the turn of the Tang Dynasty (618—907) Xi'an, along with Constantinople (Istanbul) and Baghdad was one of the largest cities in the world. A cosmopolitan urban center home to many international residents from across Asia and beyond. It was also a major religious centre, mostly for Buddhism and Taoism. From my window I can see one of the few major Tang-era buildings left in Xi'an today. The Great Wild Goose Pagoda. 64 metres high, it stored the translations of Buddhist sutras obtained by a renowned Buddhist Master who returned to China in 645 after 15 years of travel across India and central Asia. So, how important is my neighbour? It was just added to the World Heritage list this year! The Tang Dynasty also saw the construction of Weiyang Palace the largest palace ever built on Earth! Covering 4.8 km² - it's almost seven times the size of the current Forbidden City, or 11 times the size of the Vatican City. Yep! If that's not enough history for you, Xi'an is also considered to be the last calling of the Stone Age. In 1953, a 6,500-year old Banpo Neolithic village was discovered on the outskirts of the city containing the remains of several well-organized Neolithic settlements, carbon dated back 6700 years! Xi'an is also home to the most complete city wall that has survived in China, as well being one of the largest ancient military defensive systems in the world. After an extension, the wall now stands 12 meters tall, covering 13.7 kilometres in length with a deep moat surrounding the wall including four gates, respectively named Changle (eternal joy) in the east, Anding (harmony peace) in the west, Yongning (eternal peace) in the south and Anyuan (forever harmony) in the north. The south gate in the city centre is the most beautifully decorated, near the Bell and Drum Towers (which were once used to keep time for the town and sound alarms). Today with a population of 8.5 million, Xi'an still stands strong as the largest metropolis in Northwest China. You can appreciate, it's an historical treasure chest and is now reemerging as a cultural and (with 50 universities) educational hub. In 2012 a report by the Economist Intelligence Unit named Xi'an as one of the 13 emerging megacities in China, home to global companies like Mitsubishi, Toshiba, Fujitsu, Coca-Cola, Samsung and Boeing. It's this plethora of historical monuments and ancient ruins in Xi'an that afford it the title Natural Museum History and make it one of the most popular tourist destinations in China. The saying goes: "Go to Shanghai and you will find a 100-year-old China; go to Beijing and you will find a 1000-year-old China; go to Xian and then you will find a 3000-year-old China." So, what are you waiting for? Come on over and say 'Ni Hao' to the new interest in my life. … [Read more...]