Do you want to see the real China? You do? Ok, listen up. When you’re planning your itinerary, naturally you want to tick off the big kahunas - Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong…. maybe even Guangzhou or Shenzhen are on your sticky beak list. And you should. These cities are buzzing with all the trappings of the 21st Century! Reaching for the future with all the gusto of a dog digging for a bone; they are definitely not to be missed. But what about a peek into life further inside China’s colossal Middle Kingdom? A place, that for all its tall buildings, fast train lines and mammoth crowds still bears the elements of a bygone era? A city with 8-million people standing alone in the north west of China -- Xi’an, to this day remains relatively isolated from other major cities. And that is proving both good and bad (depending on how you look at it)! For the purposes of capturing a place in time, it’s perfect. Xi’an is a city that even today remains (largely) untouched by many outside influences. Sure, there are the usual western decadences in evidence, but it was only the early 2000’s when McDonalds first arrived in Xi'an; rewind a decade ago and there were just a couple of five star hotels, at best... and very little else in the way of global brands. That said, Xi’an is in the midst of an enormous growth spurt that will put her on track for a prosperous future; Ikea has just landed and a W Hotel is under construction! But despite this and brands like Starbucks popping up (literally) on every corner (and a few Sterbucske), by and large Xi’an has retained her country town 'China' feel…. It is a place where time stands still. (Only the myriad of cranes and high-rises tell you otherwise!) Just 20 years ago, Xi’an was a city without cars on the roads. Today, it's a different story...the city's roads are teeming with drivers weaving and honking to their heart's content! But they are still grappling for a place amongst the two wheelers! I’ve been to quite a few bigger cities in China this year and nowhere have I seen so many people on two (or three) wheels rolling along the streets. Not new, shiny, sleek state of the art pedalling machines either; most pushbikes are old, rusty and rattly, some barely hanging together. Motorbikes too. The ubiquitous cigarette dangling from many a driver's mouth; bikes piled high with everything from planks of wood, boxes of fruit & veges - to people (four huddled together on the bike, no problems)! Basically anything that can balance precariously on the back (or front) with just enough room to see the road in front is allowed. The scene only adding to the city’s provincial charm. The pace is slow…the frenzied urgency required of a big city still hasn’t penetrated into Xi’an’s psyche. Add to the enchantment, the fact that the city still retains much of its imperial architecture….and many new buildings (high rises aside) are being built with the very same oriental structures, and of course the omnipresent red lanterns that dangle from many a shop front - all making you actually feel like you are in the far East. There is still a ramshackle presence to many parts of China; and here in Xi’an there are as many manicured streets as there are bedraggled. Thick black scruffy power lines drape themselves recklessly through trees, while shabby shop fronts and market stalls are sandwiched tightly between new designer shopping centres. Delve just a few blocks from suburbia and you’ll find small rural like villages marching to a different beat. Tuk Tuks chugging in and out….stalls selling local fare and at the end of the street, a sky-high pile of trash - this is the local rubbish tip! While it seems that in a person's daily life here, things are tightly controlled, there is also a (fresh) air of freedom! No helmets, no seat belts, drive however, whenever….sleep wherever, whenever….squat wherever! Early in the morning, every open space is littered with bodies dancing in unison - sometimes it’s the elderly doing Tai Chi, other times it’s a bunch of young chefs or real estate agents getting the day started by knocking out some fast moves to Gangnam Style tunes. (And let’s not forget those random fire crackers I’m always harping on about.) Elderly people congregate in exercise parks, enthusiastically giving each machine a vigorous workout while chatting animatedly with their friends; Mahjong games are underway on street pavements and some people are already sleeping, their heads resting on whatever they can find. Unlike other many other larger Chinese cities, street food carts are still allowed prime position across town. Whether it’s outside one of the city's biggest tourist attractions, at the front of a shopping centre, next to KFC, or just on the side of the road to catch passers by for breakfast…these street food carts are a daily staple for locals. You don’t come to Xi’an for a fancy restaurant (apart from the Westin of course)! ;) For the most part, dining out involves traditional Chinese food. A local hole in the wall with spicy hotpot, bbq meat skewers, cold noodles, dumplings and steamed pancakes & burgers, Shaanxi style! The people of Xi’an are still governed strongly by tradition…whether it’s illness (break a bone you stay home for 100 days) doing business (nourishing relationships is crucial - often better served with some cold hard cash)….or family ties. Grandparents live with most families and take care of the children. Many parents live out of town, for work. There is a distinct lack of exposure to the outside world (remember there’s no Google and no media that isn’t condoned by the government)….and travel whilst booming (comparatively) is still limited. For a lot of older locals, the western face is still an enigma. Outside the hotel bubbles and some cafes, English is minimal and while for a foreigner living here, it can be about as difficult as climbing Mt Everest, it only reminds you, this is quintessential China. With an unrivalled history, Xi’an is more than just the breath-taking Terracotta Warriors…...enveloped by stunning mountains, Xi’an is peppered with ancient monuments and historical sights - from the ancient city wall, to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, the first Chinese Emperor’s tomb, the Muslim Quarter, museums, hot springs and lakes. There are just four first tier cities and around two dozen second tier cities and today more and more international airlines are launching flights into these 2nd tier Chinese cities; recognising that they also have a lot to offer the avid traveller. Much to my delight, Cathay now flies from most major cities with direct flights to Xi'an Steal a glimpse into a China that still holds on to a rare simplicity and innocence. (Note: This is not just a ploy to get you to come and visit me!) ;) This is (real) China! WHAT TO DO: 48 Hours in Xi’an WHAT TO PACK: Top 10 Things to Pack … [Read more...]
Culturally Enlightened: The Big Day Out, China Style! (Anyone for an eyeball massage?)
Living in China, I am always up for a new experience, a chance to make new memories and of course, a good story to write about! So, I rather enthusiastically agreed to go on a team building exercise with the hotelier and his well, team and their families! A day trip out to the mountains sounded idyllic…they were on my 'to do' list anyway. A peaceful bus ride out, taking in the sights …no sweat. Little did I know what lay ahead in the 13 hours of non-stop entertainment, China-style! Rewind your mind's images from that peaceful bus ride out……instead, cut to images of the 'happy bus' rolling off into the China madness with a quick round of 'rock, paper, scissors' followed by a frenzied game of hot potato! (Except in place of the potato, a soft toy in the shape of a (smiling) star.) Whoever was left holding said star when the music stopped had to perform "something" at the front of the bus, on the microphone! As I shrunk further and further into my seat, hoping this was just for the team…not the ring-ins, before I knew it, I found myself holding the 'yellow star' and being cheered loudly up to the front of the bus. Praising the lord for my small person who loves to put on a good show, I dragged her with me! What to sing to a bus load of Chinese speakers, most who wouldn't understand me in English anyway? A good old maori song of, course! This hit from my primary school days, that I've managed to hang onto in my adult life comes in handy sometimes (usually after a few too many beverages but rather more likely these days, singing up a storm with my small person in the privacy of my own home)! So, that bizarre picture there and then, really indicative of the day that lay ahead! Arriving at our destination, the base of Xi'an's famous Mt. Lishan (this is where the renowned Emperor Qin Shi Huang built his mausoleum and those amazing Terracotta Warriors to guard it) it was a toasty 32 degrees and as I looked up at the towering mountain before me, I was thankful I'd heeded the hotelier's advice and worn sneakers and shorts. What to do before we start the journey? A three-legged race, of course. (Careful not to be mowed down by the numerous tourist coaches flanking our race track!) A quick toilet stop (squat of course, byo tissues) and we were off! The walk started out as you'd expect… pleasant, calm, shaded…plenty of lush, green trees… Naturally the further we went, those paved steps got steeper and steeper and steeper, with every turn - just when you thought the top had to be in sight, another trek up calf-busting stairs. (Really wishing I'd stretched as opposed to a three-legged race!) The small person did remarkably well, motivated onwards by mum's rash promise of an ice-cream…little did I know, from about the half way point, there would be stalls with all sorts of ice blocks, ice-creams and much needed cold drinks (including beer) and eggs! (Thank you, Thank you!) After each set of stairs, there was usually a platform of some description to rest, where you might find an important statue, a carving, a monument…relating to the significant history of the mountain. Some people were selling pictures…others palm reading….and then this……caught me by surprise. Yep, that right there's a target range. Hire your bow and arrow and shoot. At what? Oh, that's just the Prime Minister of Japan. (Nothing PC about that really.) (Again, a story for another day!) Quick look at the view amongst the bow and arrow firing and onwards and upwards we went… Admittedly, it was becoming a bit of a tough slog by now….small person being piggy backed by daddy…in between the much needed pit stops! I really take my hat off to this lady…..I love my heels, but this is taking glamour to a whole new level! (Calls for a hash tag, #Glamourhiking) Finally we reach the top! Qualifying as the third team up! (Did I mention it was a race?!) More cool drinks and ice blocks….. and this spectacular view! A twenty minute pit stop to catch our breath, before making our way partly back down the mountain for lunch at this amazing spot - a farmer's house known in English as "Bushy Beard!" (Mind the chickens on the way out!) From here, it was (thankfully) a bus ride down the mountain to the Huaqing Hot Springs. Now, I've only really ever been to the hot springs in Rotorua, New Zealand, as a kid on our annual Christmas holiday - mostly they were mud pools and it didn't involve immersion! Naturally, I was curious about what to expect. These hot springs are quite new to Xi'an so the hotel exuded a modern, serene spa-type feeling. We were ushered into changing rooms and the fun began. No privacy here, ladies and gents…changing into swimmers with the rest of the 'team' and the changing room attendant looking on, impatiently! Ahem. I'm no prude, but the nakedness presenting itself in all manners around me, had me and small person desperately trying to fix our gazes firmly on the floor! (Hence, there are no photos!) Once in said swimmers, special shoes were given and mine whisked away. Realising, I would be the only westerner in a 'bikini' while others were wearing more appropriate bike-pant-type attire; in a futile attempt at modesty I attempted to put my shorts and t-shirt on (at least to walk out to the pools) but was sternly told to get them off!! They were to be locked in my locker! Pronto! Then, escorted to a shower (with several onlookers) we had to quickly wash ourselves down, before being plunged into the um, springs! The hotelier had an equally harrowing experience with the changing room attendant IN the shower with him (whilst naked) handing the shower gel. (Ahem.) Phew! We make it into the hot springs (I've managed to secure a towel around me) and we are met with a series of undercover square pools each with supposedly different health benefits. One was enticingly blood red, one was filled with giant cucumber slices, one was ridiculously freezing (although quite refreshing given by now it was 34 degrees and all the other pools were set at 38 plus!) Entering any of these pools, discreetly, nigh impossible -- everyone keen to check out the "foreigners" in their weird bikini/surfer shorts, who clearly thought they were off for a day at the beach! A man who appeared to be specifically on hand to straighten shoes, hovered about while we hung our towels up and slipped our rubber shoes off. Ava was given a floating ring and from there on in was happy as a pig in mud (cucumber). Meantime, the hotelier and I tried to stifle our giggles at the 'unusual' situation. We were given an hour and a half to absorb the tranquility. Sun lounges were dotted around, so you could relax (or sleep as we discovered most were). We later discovered some outdoor hot pools, much more to our Aussie sun-loving taste. After we had successfully turned ourselves into shrivelled prunes and inhaled the serenity (and dehydrated ourselves in the extreme heat) there was more relaxing to come! We were chaperoned upstairs into the 'massage/movie' room where 18 plush brown velvet chairs awaited us ….as we've now come to expect, many were fast asleep….and on the TV, a national geographic type program about rodents, played loudly. Down the hall some of the team had opted to play 'mahjong' - China's famous board game. Not the hotelier and I - we'd put our hand up for a massage, naively thinking we'd be taken into a private room….but alas this 'full' body massage was to be done right here amongst the masses…. I won't lie, it was quite good, especially after a thousand metre hike (apart from the part where my eyeballs and inside of my ears were massaged?!) And if I could just switch off the snoring sounds opposite me, the noisy Chinese game show now blasting out from the TV and the sheer horror that my bottom was being shaken in front of, God only knows who)! Successfully pruned, prodded pummelled and fuelled with a glass of warm Fanta, our next stop, dinner! This was a very authentic Chinese restaurant, with pretty red lanterns swinging in the breeze. We were ushered into two separate dining rooms which wore the hallmarks of the ancient chinese style homes in the north of China, including a giant, wooden bed. (Apparently due to the extreme cold and 'paper' windows, these beds used to have fires underneath to keep them warm!) Note: Now successfully used for children's play area. This was a distinctly northern style feast (when I say northern, I'm talking close to Russia!) although it included the ubiquitous pig's ear, not to mention an entire chicken, including it's head in this enormous bowl of soup (which was actually pretty tasty) and my favorite Xi'an style burger 'Man Tou'….very doughy bread with pork! Dessert involved a very sticky rice (which by the way, the Chinese used to use as a substitute for concrete in ancient times)! Who knew! The elusive bottle was perched on the table, we eyed suspiciously as Baijiu - but it turned out to be sweet rice wine, served in thimble sized glasses, followed by a glass or two of local beer. All tuckered out….what better way to finish off the day than with a spot of skipping!! Team building day - a success! Definitely 'out of the ordinary' but a bucket-list load of fun! This is China! Visiting Xi'an…..and want to recreate this fun experience for yourself! Get cultural in China! Where: Mt Li Shan or Shan Li, Lintong District, Xi'an Lunch: “Mao Hu Zi” (bushy Beard) Huaqing Aegean International Hot Spring Resort & Spa Dinner:“Lishan Shi San Hua” Proud to share this post on Seychelle Mama's monthly #MyExpatFamily series … [Read more...]
48 Hours in Xi’an: Top 5 Things To Do!
So, Xi'an is on your itinerary? In my mind, there are a couple of reasons you might find yourself in this second tier city in the middle of China. One: it's considered the undisputed root of Chinese civilisation one of China's oldest cities with enough history to rival a museum on steroids! Or two: you're taking pity on expats like me who need a sanity check in the shape of your visit (note: absolutely NO entry without cadbury chocolate bar in hand)! If it's the former, (bring chocolate anyway) your main focus is probably those blokes who make up that world-famous terra-cotta army, right? For most visitors, it's a quick stop over, usually after a whistle stop tour of Shanghai and Beijing. So, with time of the essence, I've put together a quick list to tick off, if you're just in town for a couple of days and don't want to miss the key things. Of course there are plenty of other 'interesting' things to see, but I'll save those for another day and a longer stay! 1) Terracotta Warriors These guys are definitely a fascinating sight to see. I've seen them twice now and while I wouldn't probably recommend a third time, they are a once in a life time experience. There's a compelling story behind their great unearthing, which you need to read all about here in my post before you set foot in the pits: Xian's Terracotta Warriors: The Largest Jigsaw in the World. Meantime, here are the details: Where are the Terracotta Warriors? This clay army of soldiers is, as you'd expect, quite a distance from the city itself in Lintong. To be precise it's 40 kilometres from Xi'an city or just over an hour from the airport, so be sure to work out your mode of transport in advance. (Xi'an is geographically a widespread city, so getting from one side to the other is not always easy. Friday and Saturday nights are mayhem on the roads!) (REPEAT: Mayhem!) How to get to the Terracotta Warriors: Take a Taxi (green ones only). From the airport, the cost is roughly RMB150-200. From the city, the cost is around RMB110-120 From the airport, you can also take the Airport Shuttle Line 2 to Xi'an Railway Station and then walk to the east square of the railway station to catch bus 914/ 915 or tourist line 5 (no. 306) to the warriors. There are also plenty of busses travelling from all parts of the city. Click here for specific details Or, if that all sounds a little daunting, alternatively most hotels can provide you with a car and driver for hire! Cost for the Terracotta Warriors: Peak season (aka the hot season) is March to November and the entry fee is RMB150 For Low season (aka the cold season) in December to February, the entry fee is RMB120 Kids under 1.2 metres tall are FREE. Opening Times at the Terracotta Warriors: Summer: Tickets sold from 8:30am to 5:00pm - last check int at 18:35pm Winter: Tickets Sold from 08:30am to 4:30pm - last check-in at 18:05pm Time to spend at the Warriors: I would suggest you put aside at least four hours including travel time. There are three 'pits' to view and while you can take as much or as little time as you choose checking these guys out, you probably need a good couple of hours, at least. Tips for the Warriors: *There's not much in the way of restaurants/cafes apart from a fairly basic cafe and a couple of quaint tea rooms, so it can't hurt to pack a lunch or eat beforehand, if you want to make it easy. *Strollers are available if you've got little ones who aren't keen to stay on their feet for the visit. There are also wheelchairs available. *There is a walk from the entrance to the pits, and let me tell you, if it's cold, you've got kids or elderly people with you, you want to grab the buggy. *It is helpful to have a tour guide to explain the history and in my humble opinion adds a lot more value to the trip. Hire one at the site for around RMB100 or your hotel should be able to recommend a good one. (Usually a little more expensive.) Or, alternatively rent an audio guide for RMB40. Extra Time: The Huaqing Palace Heritage/Hot Springs are six kilometres from the warrior site, set at the base of Mt Lishan for some stunning landscape views on a clear day. For more information, click here. About 150 metres from is here is the Lintong Museum which has about 10,000 artefacts dating from the Stone Age to modern times. 2) The City Wall This is a 13 kilometre stretch that, along with a moat, embraces the city. As the most complete city wall that has survived in China, as well being one of the largest ancient military defensive systems in the world, let me say, it is definitely worth heading into the city to see, even if you don't go up on to the wall itself. If you do choose to go up, you can walk around the wall (if you've got the stamina and time) or grab a tandem bike if it's a nice day (takes about two hours). Otherwise the buggies are definitely the way to go and it gives you a great perspective of the city. Where is the City Wall? Right in the city's hub. There are four gates leading through the wall into the city: North, South, East, West. Opening Times for the City Wall: South Gate: 8:00-22:00 East/North/West Gates: Summer: 8:00-19:00 Winter: 8:00-18:00 Cost for the City Wall: Tickets can be purchased at the bottom of the wall near the South Gate for 54RMB 27RMB for kids between 1.2 and 1,4 metres tall. Children under this height are FREE. Bike Cost: Deposit RMB200 Single Bike RMB40 for 100 minutes Tandem Bike RMB80 for 100 minutes Buggy Cost: RMB80 Time to spend at the City Wall: You can be up here for as little or as long as you want. Taking the buggy around is about one hour and it stops at each gate for ten minutes, so you can jump off and stretch your legs and admire the view. Tips for the City Wall: *There are very steep stairs leading up to the wall, so it's definitely not stroller friendly. *Unless it's a festive occasion with street food stalls set up, there is no food. Extra Time: Once you've done the wall….if time permits just below the wall at the South Gate is the Ancient Cultural Street of Shuyuanmen where you'll find quaint lane ways like something out of old Europe; markets sell all sorts of trinkets and beautiful calligraphy paintings. Defu Lane is also parallel to the wall at the South Gate and a popular haven for bar hopping. Warning: Don't expect a thriving bar scene, but it's an impressive spot at night. The South Gate is also close to both the Bell and Drum Towers. 3) Bell Tower/Drum Tower (Zhong Lou/Gu Lou) These two spectacles are right in the middle of the city and hard to miss. The Drum Tower erected in 1380 during the early Ming Dynasty towers over the city with excellent views. There is a huge drum inside that used to signal the end of the day. If you want to, you can go inside and see the drum museum and a drum show, performed every day. The Bell Tower was built in 1384 and marks the geographical center of the ancient capital. From this important landmark branch out East, South, West and North Streets that connect the tower to the East, South, West and North Gates of the City Wall. The Bell Tower is the largest and best-preserved of its kind in China. Opening Times for the Bell/Drum Towers: Summer: (April 1st - October 25th) 8:30am - 21:30 Winter: (October 26 - March 31st) 8:30am - 18:00 Cost for the Bell/Drum Towers: Bell Tower: RMB35 Drum Tower RMB35 Bell/Drum Towers RMB50 Tips for the Bell/Drum Towers: *If you prefer to stand back and gaze at the towers from a distance, you'll still be glad you saw them. Take the time to stroll around the surrounding streets and soak up the atmosphere. *The city REALLY comes to life at night. Try to see it at least once under lights. 4) Muslim Quarter (Hui Min Street) Xi'an was the start of the famous Silk Road trading route when many merchants traveled from the middle east to trade and many of their descendants are still living in Xian today, making up a 60,000 strong muslim community in the city. Known as the 'Muslim Quarter' in English, the area is a colorful feast for both the eyes and tastebuds. A window into the Chinese-Muslim culture, it's a hive of activity covering several blocks where the tight knit community is busy around the clock, preparing a labyrinth of tasty sweet and savoury street food snacks, not to mention an overabundance of the city's famous elixir 'pomegranate juice!' With an electric atmosphere, you can't go past a visit to the Muslim Quarter. (Don't forget the camera!) Where is the Muslim Quarter: In the heart of the city adjacent to the Drum Tower. Time to spend at the Muslim Quarter: You can meander through the bustling lane ways in about half an hour…. Cost for the Muslim Quarter: No cost, but take some cash for the street food. There are quite a few market stalls selling traditional souvenirs too. (Head down the side lane ways for more markets. Two words ladies: cheap handbags!) Tips for the Muslim Quarter: *Try to avoid going here on a weekend, it will be packed to the rafters!!! It's very hard to walk through (especially with a stroller) and much more pleasant on a quiet week day. (Definitely steer clear if it's any sort of festival or holiday!) *Don't forget to bargain if you're buying from the markets. *I am still not convinced the street food won't have you calling for the Lomitel or its equivalent, so eat at your own risk. But! (there's a but) I am told by locals, if it's going to be safe anywhere, it's here! Extra Time: Visit The Great Mosque for 15RMB. It's one of the oldest, largest (covering 12,o00 square metres) and best-preserved Islamic mosques in China. Just northwest of the Drum Tower on Huajue Lane. (*If you are in Muslim Quarter main street, there is a blue sign pointing to the Mosque about half way down.) Cost: Summer: RMB 25 Winter: RMB 15 (Etiquette rules apply.) 5) Big Wild Goose Pagoda (Dayan Ta) Four kilometres south of the city, this is a buddhist pagoda built in the Tang Dynasty in 652 standing 64 metres high with views stretching out across the city. It was rebuilt in 704 with an extra five new storeys; however, a massive earthquake in 1556 heavily damaged the pagoda and reduced it by three stories, to its current height of seven stories. It's no Leaning Tower of Pisa but you're not seeing things, it does lean several degrees to the west. In the past it was used to hold sutras and figurines of the Buddha that were brought to China from India by a Buddhist translator and traveller. In 2014 it was added to the World Heritage List. Where is the Big Wild Goose Pagoda? QuJiang New District - about 20 minutes from the city on a good run. This area has been designed with tourists in mind! Set at the site of the Daci'en Temple, the Pagoda stands tall amongst manicured gardens and paved squares where kites fly sky-high around the clock and 3-wheeler bicycles weave in and out of the crowds ferrying street food to passersby. There are several big shopping centres and a myriad of monuments to see amongst the tree-lined streets, not to mention the largest musical fountain in Asia. (I also know a great hotel across the road if you want to pop in.) ;) Opening Times for the Pagoda: 8:00 - 17:00 Cost for the Pagoda: Daci'en Temple RMB50 Climbing the Pagoda RMB40 Tips for the Pagoda: *If you are in this area and want to catch a Tuk Tuk or take a cab, 10-15 minutes up the road is a huge scenic lake. (Qujiang Pool Park 曲江池遗址公园) It's a beautiful spot in Xi'an if the weather is on your side. Great for kids with plenty of bikes and paddle boats for hire (if you're game!). *Bar Street is just around the corner from the Pagoda. A stretch of cute cottage-like bars and restaurants, it's worth taking a stroll up the street at least. (The Indian on the corner and the German Beer Cafe are local favourites.) So there, you have it. That's Xi'an in 48 hours. See you when you get here! This is China. For more on where to stay and what to eat in Xi'an - check out this post here I wrote for Hong Kong Moms. http://www.hongkongmoms.com.hk/xian-terracotta-warriors-much/ … [Read more...]