It’s four days out from the big C (the “big C" being our imminent move to Central China). As you'd expect, I'm rushing around like the undoubtedly mad woman that I am, ticking off a ‘to do’ list longer than the Great Wall of China. Admittedly a lot of it involves ‘maintenance’ - all in preparation for a potential lack of hairdressers able to colour blonde hair or my inability to track down a decent manicurist. (First world problems of course!) Then there are the trips to my local GP to stock up on medication for those unexpected illnesses and of course buying more panadol, deodorant and toothpaste than you can poke a proverbial stick at. (My husband keeps reminding me, we are not actually going to prison, but I'm choosing to go with the Girl Scout motto that is, "Be Prepared!") So when I'm not out buying in bulk, I'm staring into space (which mostly involves looking at a somewhat spectacular view of Hong Kong’s strapping skyscrapers, rolling mountains and sparkling seas) wrapped in a million memories, mourning this chapter that's coming to a close. It's always a weird feeling between moves. Stuck in limbo...not quite part of your old life, and yet not belonging in your future life. I will soon be staring out at a giant Wild Goose Pagoda. (Yes I can feel your sympathetic but slightly amused smirk from here.) My husband has already arrived in Xi’an. He’s been there for over a week and barely surfaced for air! Meantime, I sit here, desperate for him to throw me a bone, on life in the ancient capital. Amongst his own madness that is running a new hotel he knows little about, he’s thankfully thrown me a few morsels, mostly some grainy photos showcasing the surprisingly buzzing tourist area (including giant Pagoda) where we will make our home; informed me of the smoke-free hotel car (not always a given) with its English speaking driver; and illustrated the wide, leafy streets and his relief at the displays of English signage. Oh and the space. Coming from a place where space is like a prized cow at a fairground, I’ve gotta say, this is quite exciting. And let's not forget the pictures of Starbucks across the road! Priorities!! Still, I'm anxiously twiddling my thumbs, wondering what to expect, really expect! My heart pounds nervously as I scour Facebook pages on life in China, naturally Xi’an in particular. (Yes, encouragingly there are Facebook groups, even if Facebook is banned in China.) Naturally in between all of this I am frantically farewelling my butt off. (I can wish.) In between stocking piling supplies and gazing longingly at Hong Kong, I'm squeezing in afternoon teas at posh hotels, dinners at iconic city spots and foot massages in true oriental style, all with a bevy of warm and witty women I like to call 'my village.' Having arrived in the Fragrant Harbour four years ago, well and truly preggars, I missed out on the compulsory Hong Kong induction, that largely involves wild days on Junks and long nights in Lan Kwai Fong, where jelly shots rule the streets and you don't emerge until daylight beckons. I’ll admit, a part of me (clearly a much younger version of me) was ever so slightly disappointed… but I’ve managed to make up for it in other ways. (Ever tried Jelly shots at home!) Amongst the sleepless nights and coffee-fuelled days spent in a haze, as a first-time mother in a foreign country, believe it or not, I’ve managed to get Ava to the ripe old age of 3.5 without having her choke on chicken's feet or poke herself in the eye with a chopstick. Winning! Now as I go about my daily life, stopping to say goodbye to the people who’ve punctuated our lives, the phrase ‘It takes a small village to raise a child’ echoes in my mind. We might just be tiny specks in a bustling, fast and furious city of seven million people, but raising a child hasn’t been done alone. From our good friends on the block, to my invaluable helper (nanny) who has helped us on far too many levels to count from day dot; to Ava’s little pre-school downstairs where the teachers have treated us like family and are without hesitation throwing my girl a farewell party; to the local dry cleaners who’ve been giving Ava a lollipop every single visit, since well, well before she had teeth! It's these regular faces that make our world go round. There's also the W hotel’s warm and generous staff, who've constantly showered Ava with love, attention and unexpected gifts of kindness; the Starbucks staff who make my much-required Mint Mocha before I’ve even hit the counter and the ladies who've been scoping out a seat for us in the crowded coffee shop, since Ava was barely a week old….. there were the ladies in the clothes shop opposite who entertained Ava (or perhaps it was the other way around) while I took a brief sanity break, inhaling my coffee at high speed. There's the concierge staff downstairs in our apartment block who high-five Ava every single morning on the way out (even if she is going through the “don’t look at me, don’t talk to me" grumpy toddler phase); the security guards at the gate who make sure she gets across the road safely with a smile; to the ladies in the supermarket who’ve chatted to her enthusiastically in Cantonese every Saturday morning since the beginning when she'd toddle in with daddy, usually, unintentionally sending the fruit and veges rolling down the isle. The myriad of friendly Filipino helpers who wave and call out to Ava wherever we go in our ‘hood. (I'm constantly surprised at the number of people my blondie actually knows.) This has been our small village, well and truly alive amongst the madness of Asia's World City... and for that, I’m forever grateful. I can only hope we will encounter some of the kindness this village has shown us, in Xi’an, China....where another city of 8-million awaits. Do you have a village in an unexpected place, that gets you through your daily life? Tell me! Psssst... If you want to keep up to date with the latest from China, and you haven't already, make sure you subscribe to the blog. Click here.. … [Read more...]
Stop the Press: We’re Moving to China!
Almost four years on board the expat train in the multi-layered metropolis of Hong Kong, it's time to call it a day. I knew this post was coming… in fact I've known since the day we decided to pull up stumps and relocate from our home in Australia -- that one day it would all come to an end. To be honest with you, the day I stepped foot in humid, heaving Honkers - I already had my eyes on the finish line. I'll give it two years (at best) I thought, then we'll go home. But with time comes acceptance, assimilation and ultimately adoption. I've unexpectedly fallen in love with this intoxicating city, enough to start a serious relationship and call it home - 43 floors up. In fact, I've spent more of my married life in Asia's World City than in Australia and have experienced the biggest life-changing event of all in the city that (appropriately) never sleeps - motherhood! When my toddler asks where she's from it's Hong Kong (Kowloon to be precise) her home is a very tall building called Gwun Lum Tin Ha and she thrives on a diet of dim sum and rice. Truth be told, I've also (surprisingly) become a little bit addicted to expat life. It sneaks up on you. Before you know it, you're hailing cabs like a woman possessed, wielding chopsticks with an element of finesse and crowd jamming with the best of 'em. For the last 18 months though, 'normal' life has been interspersed with a roller coaster ride of emotions - heart racing moments, highs and lows, plenty of what ifs, what next and how the hell?! With a husband in hotels, they like you to progress and conquer, meaning the next role is never too far out of sight. There's an unspoken rule…don't get too comfortable, for soon it will be time to move on. This time it's for 'top dog' -- General Manager -- the very reason we started this expat journey. The ball started rolling as the clock struck midnight 2013! No sooner had we clinked champagne glasses, pondering what the future may hold …the phone literally lit up with calls. (Who needs fireworks!) First cab off the rank (unexpectedly) Sydney! Yes! Sydney!! It wasn't for top dog. But it was Sydney!! Our home. It's like being offered your favourite pair of warm fluffy slippers after you thought you'd lost them or a warm blanket when you've been out in the cold too long. So very tempting to slot back into that old life where good friends, good jobs, a city we love and precious family not too far away, co-exist all in One. Single. Place. Really - what's to think about? Call us crazy (yes the really loopy in the head kind of crazy if you must) but… it wasn't time. It was too soon. We realized then and there, when fate slapped us in the face, we'd changed. The excitement of living amongst a different culture, constantly learning and forever adapting -- being in a place where each day brings new surprises, some good, some bad and some just plain bizarre had caught us in its grip, more tightly than we'd ever anticipated….and so we said no to Sydney -- for now. Then a month later, Wuhan, China came knocking at our door. And just when we thought we were hardened expats, ready to embrace the next big adventure, Wuhan wobbled us off our expat axis…. With two days to decide, we took a frantic flight to the place they call Asia's furnace. I'll spare you the drama, but if you missed it, you can read about the slightly harrowing, yet enlightening experience in my previous post - Do All Roads Lead to China? So, feeling weary and weighed down with the pressure of making the right decision again, we wiped our brow, took a few deep breaths, dusted Wuhan off and carried on enjoying life in the fragrant harbour. Breathing in Hong Kong air never felt so good! Then, about a month later, just chilling on the couch, a late night email came through. This time - the arrow had spun around, landing on - Bangkok! We tried to contain our excitement, hide our smug grins (it is the 'Land of Smiles' after all). This was the prize winning lotto ticket (after Hong Kong). We could do this! No consideration necessary. A quick google search for the hotel… it met all our expectations - perfect for a first time GM. A sparkling city boasting plenty of culture and charisma. As any expat would know, when you get this kind of call, as much as your head tells you sternly not to start planning, you let a little bit of your imagination run away….just a little. You start picturing what daily life in that country might look like. Where you might live. What you might do each day? Imagine yourself walking the streets amongst the Tuk Tuks, temples and famous Thai cuisine. A new culture to explore and conquer. We're in! But we weren't. Disappointed, you tell yourself it's not to be. About now, a little bit of panic sets in. What's next then, will China call again? Brace yourself, you can't say no forever. You also breathe a small sigh of relief, knowing it buys you extra time. Time in your haven where you can almost pretend you're not going anywhere. Life goes on as normal - school run, work, socializing, trips away, shopping….doctor's appointments. But just as you let your guard down, relax and almost convince yourself you're here to stay, the inevitable happens. When my husband comes home from work in the middle of the day, bearing a Mint Mocha, I know it's serious. "How does Melbourne sound?" he says ever so half heartedly. Then more enthusiastically, "This time it's top dog!" My heart skips a beat. We've got 24 hours. 24 hours to make a decision to put ourselves forward as one of three candidates for a role which could potentially change our lives. We talk it through…over and over. We text family… we try to get a feeling one way or the other. It's home but it's not really home. It's still too far from family. It's a great opportunity but is it a great move financially? Great city, but we're not convinced it's for us. We can't decide. There are tears of frustration, heated words. We make a list of pros and cons. We think we should go…but when it comes down to it, we realise, neither of us really wants to. What's happened to us? They joke people (namely expats) get lost in Asia. Is this us? Much to the surprise (shock) of friends and family we decline Melbourne and deep down know this may very well be a decision we long live to regret. But still, we feel OK. We know we've got unfinished business in Asia. If we end expat life now and go home, we'll never know where it may have taken us. Another few weeks go by after the emotional upheaval… and again 'normality' resumes, that is until we hear the top spot at one of the company's other hotels in Hong Kong is up for grabs. Could this be ours? A chance to stay in Hong Kong! Is it too good to be true? Yes it is. This one's got a list as long as my arm and we're not at the top. My husband's getting itchy feet …should we have gone home? Are we going to end up in the back of China? Probably. It's hard to make plans….how long have we got? Do I sign up for that work event? Should Ava start her new school? Should I say yes to that Junk boat invitation next month. Can we book a flight home? Then it happens again, lying in bed one night, another day is over…James quickly checks his emails - a few expletives…then, "The W Koh Samui - They want to put me forward as one of three!" Uh oh.. here we go again….a restless night ensues, simultaneously, we toss and turn. Another long three weeks go by, waiting…waiting - stomach in knots…is this the one? I've never been to Koh Samui, but it's hard not to have heard about it. That famous Leonardo DiCaprio movie The Beach springs to mind. Amazing location. But an island? - me on an island? Until recently we'd all but ruled-out resorts. Too isolating for us city slickers we'd joked and brushed the idea under the carpet. But after the last six months, lazy days by the pool suddenly sound very inviting. I picture a relaxed, family lifestyle, lots of delicious writing overlooking the powdery white sand and crystal clear waters…life in a variety of techni-coloured sarongs. Am I dreaming? From 7-million to 62,000 people! Suffice to say, I was dreaming, it didn't eventuate. Disappointed, again, we take a collective sigh and try to carry on as normal. The next email comes a month later. The desert heat of Doha is calling. I'm scared because it's the Middle East and it's not familiar, but I'm also keen because I actually know people there. This could work….I start to envisage Arabian nights under the stars, but after a month the project is placed on the back burner and the idea of camel rides in the sand is quickly blown away. Hot on its heels comes Goa, in India! By this point my husband is calmly throwing these locations out there over dinner and I'm usually replying with a nervous half chuckle, too scared to acknowledge it might be the one. I've never heard of Goa but our English friends tell us it's the perfect island city. Again my imagination does a little dance and I think about life on a diet of curries and a place where cows roam the streets. But again I'm quietly anxious. It's a time when India is front and centre in the news for all the wrong reasons… So, maybe it's just as well the powers that be rendered Goa not the place for us. Swallow, inhale, exhale, repeat! At this point I'm stuck between desperately wishing for a crystal ball and just forgetting this limbo land exists! My iPhone weather app seriously can't take any more cities. But it's going to have to. A little town in China comes up called Heifei. Unfortunately a quick google tells me it's one of Asia's 'other' furnaces. This little town has seven million people and it's still considered a backwater! The city's nickname "nowheresville" jumps out at me from my screen. I anxiously read on and discover it's a place where people can't park their own cars. I picture myself being flagged down by rich Chinese in Mercedes and asked to parallel park for them. We say no to Heifei. It's not long before bikinis are back on the agenda. It's Bali but a sideways move for James. We debate the merits and as much as we'd love to dabble in the Island of Gods, it defeats the purpose of this adventure. Relaxing back home over a little Christmas lunch with the family Down Under, the faraway land of Seoul in South Korea springs up! On paper, it sounds oh so very sophisticated, but by this point in the game we barely bat an eyelid… just as well because by New Year, Seoul is off the cards. Another day comes, another Chinese city. ChongQing. The third furnace in China… also known as the 'fog city.' Somehow we narrowly escape this one. Then Macau is placed in our laps and we almost somersault with unbridled excitement! It seems like a done deal and while it lacks the excitement of exploring a new, unknown culture, a stone's throw from Hong Kong it gives us the opportunity to cling onto much of our old life. We happen to be in Macau on a weekend holiday so we snap pictures outside the half built hotel, daring to wonder if this will become a significant moment in our future. But our snaps end up being deleted. Macau is not where we belong. Our brief love affair is over. Then… just when I start to think we might be destined to remain in Hong Kong, along comes a place we realize we can't refuse. Oh yes, it seems the path to China is set in stone (or rather clay) and truthfully we almost sigh with relief at this point. Our new home is also home to those famous Terracotta Warriors. Xi'an means Western Peace and is regarded as one of the fourth oldest cities in the world, along with Rome, Cairo and Athens, although I'm pretty sure it's not nearly as esteemed. But what I'm comforted by, is it has character and it has soul (and it's not the fourth furnace)! The odds are surely in my favour, there are direct flights to the Gold Coast and there's a Starbucks opposite the hotel. Xi'an, you had me at hello! Something tells me this is where the real expat journey begins….(thank god for those few Mandarin lessons….and thank you Beijing Mandarin for teaching me how to order a Mint Mocha in Mandarin today!) So, it's time to say 'thank you' Hong Kong. Thank you for showing me a life I could never have imagined in my wildest dreams. As excited about this new adventure as I am, I'm also slightly terrified! So stick with me, because I'll see you on the other side! Pssst, i'm almost positive you'll have a very good picture of Xi'an by the time we leave, but here's a short video to give you a sneak preview. Anyone interested in the Westin Xi'an.... this is what it looks like! … [Read more...]
Relocating to Hong Kong: What You Need to Know
Latest Column for Expat Focus As an expat blogger in Hong Kong, I get all sorts of weird and wonderful requests to collaborate. Everything from joining a 'baby formula selling' business in South Africa to taking part in travel focus groups in the US, to write ups for removal companies and health bar reviews come my way. Naturally some things are better suited to Mint Mocha Musings than others. But mostly, I get asked about living in Hong Kong. Usually from people in the West who're considering taking the plunge and relocating to the far East. "Is it really that expensive to live there?" "Will I make friends?" "Can I still walk my baby in the stroller?" "Will I be able to get 'normal' food in Hong Kong?" Just to name a few. I've even had people writing to me asking my advice on going to university in Hong Kong. Obviously some things are plainly just out of my area of expertise, but general day to day stuff…I figure after three and a half years here, that I can do! For this column I decided to list a few of the more commonly asked questions and provide a few answers/opinions, that (hopefully) might ease a newcomer's concern and/or interest a curious onlooker. Pop over to Expat Focus and get my top tips! Click here... Please hit share if you think someone could benefit! Sharing is caring.... :) … [Read more...]
Maid in Hong Kong – the Helper phenomenon…
It's a phenomenon in the best sense of the word! Both impressive and extraordinary. In this multicolored, multi-cultural city of contradictions, there is a culture in Hong Kong that sees many middle class people living like the wealthy aristocrats of a bygone era, a time when maids scurried about large colonial-style homes, catering to their master's every whim. What's probably even more extraordinary though, is that whilst this city has the highest number of maids per capita in Asia, if you've read some of my posts before, you'll know this is by no means a city of sprawling mansions and estates, let alone your average three bedroom home with a backyard and a white picket fence. It's the skyscraper capital of the world and it's no secret most Hong Kongers live in relatively small (make that 'teeny tiny') apartments. Lacking in space they may be, but nonetheless they still manage to squeeze in the obligatory "maid's room" - cubbyholes that are not much bigger than a walk-in-wardrobe, usually off the kitchen. As a westerner, coming from Australia, my first reaction was admittedly one of sheer disbelief. 'It can't be so!' I exclaimed! Scouring for a place to rent, my eyes narrowly fixed on a tiny cubicle no bigger than a bathroom off the entry way. (Oh wait, yes that's a shower IN the toilet)! Don't worry, this was the big time…in apartments without a designated helper's room, many helpers sleep in the kitchen or sometimes with the children. If you haven't lived in Asia you might be wondering why living in Hong Kong and having a maid are more often than not, mutually inclusive events. Unlike in most western countries, where it is seen as the consummate symbol of wealth and elitism, here in Hong Kong, you need neither status, a sizable income nor a spacious pad to have a full time, live-in maid. Actually, the Hong Kong government stipulates that to hire a maid you need a household income of no less than $15,000 a month, that's currently around US$1,932. The Minimum Allowable Wage for a full time helper is $4010 a month - $US516. They work a six day week, doing everything and anything -- from household chores like cleaning and ironing to looking after your child/ren and cooking the family breakfast, lunch and dinner. Step outside my apartment building and the 'Helper' is an instantly recognizable part of Hong Kong society. Usually in her unofficial uniform of jeans or tracksuit pants and a t-shirt with flip flops on their feet (often in winter), if they're not wheeling a trolley, they're pushing a stroller, carrying someone else's baby in a baby pouch or wielding some form of household cleaner and a bucket! On the seventh day, the majority of helpers take the opportunity to go to Church and are often seen congregating in mass in open spaces around the city where they dress up to the nines, socialize, sing and eat, for as long as the day will let them. The Asia-Pacific region employs more domestic workers than any other part of the world - around 21 million are working in private homes, most of them women. In the Fragrant Harbour, one in eight households has a helper and in households with children, it's one in three. Not all live in and I am sure they're often considered the lucky ones, but it is currently illegal. To many unfamiliar with the culture, the Helper may seem like an unnecessary extravagance but for families where both parents work, be it part time or full time, there are no other options for childcare. For starters, government facilities like child-care centres simply don't exist, so that option is out if mums need to/want to return to work, in some capacity. Maternity leave is at best short in Hong Kong (10 weeks paid) and of course in the expat world, most of us don't have family to help out. Any pre-school a child goes to up until two years of age must be accompanied by a guardian. That coupled with Hong Kong's rapidly aging society and a lack of elderly nursing home means domestic helpers are desperately needed to take care of the community's junior and senior citizens. Whilst I do have the luxury of a Helper, to be honest, call me crazy, but it's taken me a really long time to get used to the idea. Being a foreigner, my first introduction to this rather foreign concept wasn't without opposition. When I first arrived I didn't have any help and often found myself at various birthday parties where I would end up being the only one in the mosh-pit (play area) with all the Filipino helpers and babies in their care. "Where were the other mums?" You may well ask. Well, they were off quaffing champagne and having a good old time….(or just quietly, maybe they were in the pool taking 'selfies!') I had to check myself and remind myself this was considered perfectly normal around these parts. Everyone assured me I would get used to it 'soon enough' and immerse myself in the Tai Tai lifestyle. I never have. (Ok well, sometimes I'm partial to a long lunch with a champers in hand - nothing's changed there!) But if you're not careful, you can find yourself pretty much devoid of any responsibility, living life like some sort of expat fraternity on permanent vacation. (Party poopers need not apply!) Fortunately though (and I know this is not the case for many people) I am in a position where I do not need my helper on a daily basis, which is good because as much as I love her, I also don't want my helper on a daily basis. I know I'm in the minority and often frowned upon by other expats (some may even call me a martyr) but I like my privacy and mostly I just want to do things that are considered "normal" in my home country, because you know what - there's a fair chance we'll be returning some day and it's going to be a rude shock to the system as it is having rarely changed my sheets or cleaned a toilet in the past couple of years. I still need to know I can do the dishes, cook dinner and take care of my girl, without help! And errr hello…..as one friend put it, I like to be able to have an argument with my husband without whispering! Trust me, I've seen women returning home after a stint abroad looking to emulate the same thing they had as an expat in Asia. Truth is you won't find a babysitter who cleans your pantry while you're out (at least not for much less than a small fortune) and you certainly will not find a nanny who packs your bags before you go away. Just in case you're still unclear, let me reiterate, we don't do it tough 'round here! ;) My helper has been looking after us in some capacity for three years now and she is for all intents and purposes, part of the family. She messages my mum on Facebook, our children play together and I just met her boyfriend! As for my daughter, they are the greatest of friends and I know in my heart, when we move on from Hong Kong, we will all stay in touch. My hope is that as the friendship continues, one day Ava will visit my helper's daughter in their part of the world. Some people will say this is a bit too close for comfort….it's a business relationship and they are your employee. Whilst I agree, boundaries are important in any relationship, I also think it comes back to the type of employer you are and the type of employee you get. A lot of it is pure luck - on both sides of the equation. When you think about it….how many work situations require you to spend so much time with your employee/employer (i.e. living with them) and how many circumstances involve two (often very different) cultures blending together, harmoniously at that! There's no manual and there are no instructions when it comes to understanding how to manage two significantly different cultures, not to mention the language barrier, all under the one roof. It takes plenty of patience and empathy goes a long way too. It's a bit like having a baby…. there's no training for parenthood right….you just have to muddle your way through as best you can. I see forums with people crying out for information on how to communicate with their helpers and vice versa. Most Helpers in Hong Kong are Filipino, Indonesian or Malaysian and most employers are either Hong Kong/Chinese, western (British, Australian, American) or European. It's a setting ripe for personality clashes, let alone cultural misunderstandings. Naturally, different problems arise between different nationalities. I notice Chinese or Hong Kong employees who've grown up with the maid culture have a slightly different attitude to their helpers than say expat employees not so familiar with the state of affairs. For many locals it's business transaction while for westerners it's a little more familiar. Which way is best, I'll let you be the judge. There are times I see employers complaining mercilessly on public forums about their helpers lack of dress code or late arrival home (on her day off) or maybe she doesn't quite cook the meal to your liking or vacuum to your standards….and no doubt on the other side of the fence maids complaining about their unfair or difficult employers. Trawling the internet, I found this piece from a maid who believed she was subjected to conditions that saw her treated like a second-class citizen. I have no sanctuary of my own other than the utility room. It’s small, has no air-conditioning and there is no lock on the door. I sleep there on boxing over the pipe-work. When I find the household unbearable I seek a few minutes there alone. I close my eyes and try to calm my breathing, fighting back homesickness. “Don’t you dare touch the pork. Mr Yu and I will have it tonight. The pots of yogurt are for the children only. For lunch you can make yourself rice and take a spoon - no more mind - of last night’s vegetables: quite enough!” But it can go much, much deeper than that…..Hong Kong's newspaper headlines of late testament to the trouble that can happen. "We are workers, not slaves!" and "Indonesian Maid in Abuse Case" just a couple of such headlines that have put maids and employers in Hong Kong in the world spotlight. Just this month, thousands of domestic helpers took to the streets of Hong Kong to demand justice for the Indonesian maid who was allegedly enslaved and tortured by her employers for eight months. It's not all one-sided though, there are - as with every group in society - individual helpers who abuse the system, those responsible for babies who lie about their references or steal money and hop between jobs to collect severance pay and flights home. (If a contract is terminated, the employer must pay their flight home.) I've heard about helpers not looking after children in their care, spending most of their time on the phone and not fulfilling their part of the bargain. Basically taking the mickey! At the risk of repeating myself, it's an unconventional situation……with no manual on how it's supposed to be done. To the average westerner, paying $500 a month for so much help is almost ludicrous and too good an offer to pass up - but for the helpers themselves, they are earning far more than they could ever hope to back in their home countries. Many have tertiary qualifications but can do little with it back home and if they do manage to secure a job in their profession of choice, the rewards are meager. The remittances for the Philippines from the hundreds of thousands of women working overseas are enormous, ploughing billions of dollars into the fledgling economy. But it also means while the children in Hong Kong are being taken care of, there are equally as many left behind in the workers' home country. I've written about the "Nation's Angels" before...here in my post 'A Motherless Country.' The first lot of maids arrived from Myanmar in February this year. For the 19 women it was the first time they'd stepped foot outside their country. One woman was quoted as saying she previously made US$150 a month as a hotel receptionist in her own country while here in Hong Kong, she'll triple that, at least. To many HongKongers, the helper is a modern day Mary Poppins! But during my time here in Hong Kong, I've heard some people liken the city's 'helper' syndrome to the Academy award winning movie The Help - the american drama after the same name, about the relationship between the maids and their employers in the early 60's, whilst others believe you reap what you sew and that women from less fortunate countries are lucky for the opportunities afforded here. Both perhaps extreme views…. but somewhere in the middle lies the truth about this exceptional existence that is, rightly or wrongly - alive and well in the 21st Century. **** And if you're about to step into the world of helpers, here are a few tips on how to make sure you both get the best out of the relationship, from Edouard Muller, founder of HelperPlace. You will need to pay for your helper's visa depending on their current situation and nationality. You can ask for an agency to assist with the visa and paperwork and the cost involved varies between HK$2,000 and HK$3,000. If you choose not to go with an employment agency, it's about HK$1,000. The employer is also responsible for all costs under the labour law other than training. All travel costs need to be covered along with transport fees. A comprehensive medical check-up is on the cards too. Also, employers will be expected to shell out money for, at the very least, basic helper insurance or medicare. Looking for a Helper to suit your needs. The first thing you need to establish is the kind of helper required for your home: do you need a child-care specialist or someone to do the household chores? Some people prefer experienced helpers only. If your helper is inexperienced, bare in mind they will need training for every possible scenario. It's a known fact that chemistry equals compatibility and hence crucial you like your helper, because you and your family are going to be seeing a lot of them. All references need to be thoroughly checked. It's essential that you feel confident leaving your child in the helper’s care. A recommendation from a friend is always reassuring. It's vital to assesses your helper's language skills. You want them to be able to call a doctor in emergencies and be able to communicate well with everyone, particularly children. If there are elders in the house, it's also important your helper is polite and receptive of their needs. A blend of warmth, calmness and confidence is what differentiates an ideal helper from the rest. Offer the domestic helper a chance to ask questions. Train them gradually or you can even enrol them in a variety of courses to improve their expertise. Honesty, integrity and passion for work is important but most importantly is the helper's ability to learn to care for your family in the way you would like. A sense of openness allows them to feel at ease making suggestions and observations to you. There is strong evidence that mutual respect and teamwork will help both employer and the employee and it's no different in a the home helper situation. … [Read more...]
The Skyscraper Bubble – Living in Hong Kong, the Only Way is Up
Being back home in the big, wide brown land of Australia for the silly season, it struck me just how different 'living' in Hong Kong is. Residing in one of the most vertical cities on the planet, means very few of us live in a house - at least a house as I know it. You know, a typical three bedroom, low level family home with a garden, maybe even a pool, a white picket fence…a laundry (heaven forbid), you might even get a front door AND a back door….perhaps some storage space to go with that spacious bedroom. Heck, maybe there's even room for a BBQ or space to ride that scooter (toddler's not mine). In Hong Kong though, not so much. It's skyscrapers all the way. 8000 to be exact! With an extremely high population density (7 million people) the urban sprawl of tall, sleek concrete buildings spreads thickly across Hong Kong's relatively small city size of 1100 km2. Building 'up' is the only way to make sure we all fit…and even then it's a tight squeeze. From above, the city for all intents and purposes looks like a stack of dominoes. (Hopefully not about to topple over.) Sure, you can head out into the green 'burbs that exist in all their lush glory beyond the Fragrant Harbour, and you will encounter village houses (typical of a two or three story town house in Australia). Set on considerably more spacious blocks, it's a very different style of living from the usual shoebox-size apartments slotted into the thousands of multi-tower developments. With around 300,000 village homes in the city, you can well imagine, these places are as long in appeal as they are short in supply. In the early 70's Hong Kong law gave any male heir over the age of 18, who could prove he descended from one of Hong Kong's original villages in 1898, the right to build a small house on a plot of land, either owned by the village itself or on leased government land. With land at an all time premium, today, most "houses" that do exist tend to be out of the city centre, but if you're lucky you'll get a patch of green to call your own and a view that includes a sea of sky and tropical terrain as opposed to a tiny piece of blue (or haze) poking through the looming buildings. Otherwise, it's up up and away. You live on the forty something floor, high up in your tower (and trust me there are some days when I really do feel like Rapunzel). When it comes to high-rise living in the Kong, it's a choice of the old verses the new. Apartments in older blocks are generally a lot larger, ranging from 1,800 to 3,000 square feet with bigger balconies and plenty of character. On the flip side, they are less likely to have all the impressive facilities that go hand in hand with most newish high-rises. Either way, in Hong Kong, small is a fact of life. Our apartment (for real estate purposes) is 1400 square feet and includes three bedrooms (two out of three bedrooms are really pushing it to be described as bedrooms per se - unless your bed is for those on the extremely short side). It pays to know that in Hong Kong your floor space also includes the calculation of your share of the lift, the lobby and even the mail-box!! Hello Ikea! Always packed to the rafters with its multi-purpose, dolls house-size furniture, you'll find everything from beds to coffee tables, cabinets and kitchens made especially for Hong Kong's small spaces. Yet, somehow, ironically, most apartments in Hong Kong still manage to have a "Maid's Room"… all 10 square feet, including a wash basin and shower for your 'live in Helper' (ours though has managed to become a storage room not unlike like the 'Tardis' in Doctor Who. (Definitely bigger on the inside!) Meantime, most units are without the mod-cons you come to expect these days, like a dishwasher or perhaps the not so 'mod con' oven. Ovens are a rarity in Honkers, due to the lack of space but also the fact that most locals are too busy using their Wok to make dinner (and just quietly, as a reluctant cook, I'm not complaining)! Those of you who are big foodies, no need to fret, while this might seem like a gross inconvenience to begin with, there are around 8000 restaurants in Hong Kong and most residential buildings stand tall on top of giant shopping malls flooded with more restaurants than you can poke a stick at. On top of this, public transport is a dream…with train stations on every corner and taxis literally rolling past you day and night, there's no excuse not to head out. While it has its lows, high-rise living really is a convenient lifestyle, with everything at your fingertips. Most modern residential complexes will boast a clubhouse. (As a hotelier's wife, who needs to live in the hotel!? ) And I'm not just talking about a room with a billiard table and a projector screen. No my friends, these are (without a word of a lie) like mini resorts. Picture pristine pools (complete with lifeguards and fluffy fresh towels) movie theatres, tennis courts, cafes, libraries, kids playrooms, gyms, saunas, spas, dance rooms, bbq areas….not to mention regular 'activities' on offer, like cake making, wine tasting and events to keep your small people out of trouble. The other highlights to high-rise living? For me - security staff on site 24/7 is a huge plus. It means safety is a given and walking around the complex at any time of the day or night, not out of the question. And lets not forget the concierge staff who are always eager to help. They open doors, carry bags, valet park cars and generally make life much more pleasant…after three years, these guys are great friends (at the very least someone to chat to on the way in at the end of the day). It also means you can't escape unnoticed! Don't be trying to escape for a sneaky late night cocktail! And…. there are rules, rules and more rules that come with this style of living. Don't hang washing over the balcony for starters, in fact don't let anything accidentally fall off that 30 something floor… notices are issued regularly about falling shower gels and carelessly thrown tissues. On the upside, things are clean, very clean. (So clean in fact, on our recent trip to Australia my three year old kept asking "Mummy, why is there so much rubbish on the ground?") (You can read about Hong Kong's meticulous side involving scrubbing escalator grooves with a toothbrush here.) Note to self - don't forget, at any time a gondola full of workers might just be 'hanging' outside your window! (Most buildings have gondolas on the rooftop for any 'outside' jobs.) But no matter how high-tech things get, you'll still find good old bamboo scaffolding is used to erect intricate webs of sky-high walls and platforms strong enough to hold a legion of construction workers. High rise living means you can expect 'maintenance' and lots of it. Most weeks involve a notice in the letter box, with a day of complete lock down, one way or another. Whether it's the fresh water, the flushing water, the lifts, the carpark…just about everything is constantly being tended to around the clock. I won't lie, it can get a tad frustrating. Manicured gardens that are strategically placed around the building, preened to perfection are usually off limits.….'look but don't touch please.' It can also on occasion feel like you are living in a construction zone. Oh the noise!! You might be thinking about now, things surely feel a little on the crowded side, but don't be fooled…. these places can feel like deserted islands. You can literally go months without seeing the same person twice…or as Murphy's Law has it, see the same person every day in the lift, for a week. (As an added bonus, just think of that free time you get traveling up to the forty something floor - plenty of time to get lost in your thoughts, send an email, check twitter, write the grocery list. Taking two floors to my mum & dad's foyer just doesn't quite cut it. Trivial Fact: There are no floors ending in the number 4 due to the fact, the number sounds like 'death' in Chinese. And despite the overwhelming number of people packed into this concrete jungle, I kid you not, there's still that cosy 'village' feeling, for me at least. Beneath us in the glossiest of glossy shopping centres (mostly crammed with completely unaffordable shops bar Starbucks and H & M) is our home away from home. Three plus years into our residential stay, it's a place where everybody knows your name (cue 'Cheers' theme) ….ok make that, everybody knows my toddler's name! Every visit since she was tiny, without fail, the local dry cleaners have given Ava a lollipop. Starbucks know my coffee order before I reach the counter (Ok so it's not that hard). They even find us seats when it's busy. The shop opposite was a handy babysitter when Ava was small, entertaining her endlessly…until they inconveniently got moved out (and the girls cried saying goodbye to my girl.) The local doctors, the ladies who stand waiting to clean the toilets (yes this happens) the school teachers, the ladies in the supermarket who don't speak a word of english (and also conveniently bring your groceries to your door) fuss around Ava like she's a rare breed. At least I can rest assured, if madam escapes, she won't get far! When it comes to festivities, there's no need to worry about not getting into the latest holiday spirit…. whether its Halloween, Christmas, Chinese New Year or Easter, your tower WILL be dressed to the nines. Of course renting these small spaces that are so highly sought after is by no means a cheap affair. Rent has risen nearly 20 per cent in Hong Kong in the past four years. Such spaces now gobble up about a third of many residents’ incomes. CNBC reported that in 2013 real estate prices in Hong Kong were the second highest in the world, only behind Monaco. Apartments range from HK$5000 to $75,000 and beyond and those with the modern facilities are no less than $40,000 - that's $5000 US dollars to rent, a month. In a recent block of apartments for sale the cheapest flat cost more than HK$12 million with no less than 5,000 people queuing, pushing and jostling for 60 luxury flats.. Would-be buyers had to lodge their interest, the price they were prepared to pay and enter a lottery to win the chance to "potentially" purchase one of the apartments. (Tip: The higher you go in your residential tower, the more expensive the rent (less noise and pollution, so they claim)! Of course with such extortionate prices for real estate, there are those locals who can only afford to live in tiny 'cage homes.' You can read about the massive divide between the rich and the poor here. One of the great surprises about Hong Kong's endless sea of older high rises though are the myriad of hidden gems behind closed doors. Head into any nondescript building, take the rickety lifts and step out into a small passageway - Voila - you'll find everything from TV studios to chic hair dressing salons, furniture stores, five star restaurants and rooftop bars. It's quintessential Hong Kong. It's definitely a different way of living but it's been an experience this regular girl from DownUnder has grown to love. It's not forever - some day in the near future, I look forward to that white picket fence and a spare room that's bigger than a postage stamp (and maybe even an oven to call my own, but probably not). But for now, it's home….and something tells me, life high up in the tower will never be quite so convenient. (This Rapunzel is reluctant to let down her hair.) … [Read more...]