They call us aliens. Yes, it’s true. On our permanent work visa that allows us to live here as a pseudo Chinese for a year, it states very clearly “Alien!” For all intents and purposes, I often feel like I have indeed been plucked from my former life, whisked past Mars, Jupiter and Saturn and plonked down on another planet, far off in the galaxy. (Cue: mini 3-wheeler truck rolling past with a pink umbrella spouting from the engine.) 12 months in, here I am! I’m sitting here looking at that bloody Pagoda! All seven concrete tiers of the ridiculously ancient, mystical monument towers over me from every angle, a constant reminder, “You’re not in Kansas anymore, Toto!” It will always be symbolic of my time here in China…it’s the first thing I saw when I arrived and if I stand outside in the very same spot (it was raining like it is today) I can easily take myself back to that moment in time…. the pit in my stomach that felt like it was so heavy it might actually bring me to my knees. Where are we, what have we done? The smiles hiding the sheer angst bubbling under the surface….the tears ready to spill without warning. It’s an intense feeling of utter alienation from everything and everyone swirling around us in a fog of foreignness. The loneliness engulfs you like a thick blanket…..(oh wait, was that smog?!) I’d lived in Hong Kong for four years, but this was an acute (and surprising) case of culture shock. I thought I had prepared myself, well….but in hindsight nothing can prepare you for the onslaught of crotchless pants, earnest street spitting and footpaths that double as roads! I jest…but in reality, my inability to crack a smile for the first few weeks was a pretty poignant sign, I was in a place far flung from any my imagination had dared to go. I will never forget the day we drove through town, all sitting in the back seat, peering out the window as we wove in and out of bedlam traffic, speeding past a world of wild, unchartered territory. Amongst the mayhem, I saw a western-looking woman walking her toddler dressed in a princess costume….all I wanted to do was wind down my window and throw my business card through the crowds at her…shouting: "Hey, I’m here!" Sheer desperation for a fellow expat in a sea of foreign faces! 12 months in and hindsight is indeed a wonderful thing! I have found my expat tribe, all plonked on the planet of Xi’an from every corner of the earth (a regular sanity check); not to mention some fascinating locals, who’re teaching me a thing or two about the phenomenon that is China. I no longer notice the intense staring at the “Laowai” with the blonde hair and strange facial features, who towers above most locals. (Yes, that’s me, I am officially tall at five feet 3.) My small person doesn’t try to wrap herself in my dress, hiding from the zealous strangers desperate to snap a picture of her pale skin and blonde locks. For the most part, she tolerates the constant clicking and we have mastered the ability to shut out the crowds slowly (but surely) closing in on us, if we dare to stop in one place for too long. (The mantra is “Keep moving!") We know enough Chinese to mutter “Enough, thanks, she’s tired” if we need to. Sometimes we even play up to the farce that is being ‘papped’ and pose with all our might in fits of giggles. Hollywood, so close but so far. We know to keep to the side of the footpath and always have one ear listening out for the distant beeps of cars/bikes/Tuk Tuks creeping up behind us….. Now, when I am in any other city that doesn’t ‘beep,’ it seems eerily quiet. We are also proudly adept at crossing the road… no longer finding ourselves stranded on one side, waiting for an eternity until all cars are seemingly absent. (This will never happen.) We know that no matter how good we think we’ve ordered something in our best Chinese, it will almost always be misinterpreted. And that’s ok. If we are lost (in translation), we can somehow muddle through enough Chinese to get to where we want to go without enduring a mild panic attack. (That said, a phone battery dying whilst out of the bubble is still a small catastrophe!) The sobering reality has dawned on me, I will forever be learning Chinese. I will never master the Chinese language in one year, let alone two or possibly even ten. It is a life-long education. (Currently, I spend a lot of the time guessing what people are saying from the one Chinese word I manage to get...my life is a world of charades.) A ride from A to B no longer induces heart palpitations or needs to be taken with wide eyes firmly shut. We can appreciate the scenery before us. I am now used to random people attempting to enter my house with a loud “Nihao” or appearing on my balcony at any time of the day or night, often with a sneaky peek at the Laowai in the gold fish bowl. The noise of loud, rumbling fire crackers cascading through the morning air is now heard without so much as a raised eyebrow; as is the tune ‘It’s a Small World’ signalling the road cleaners are out in force to spray away the desert dust. Those mysterious drones overhead I was convinced were spying on me are just kites…..(no, really)! Skim milk is an anomaly. Ask for it to practice your Chinese, but you will mostly be met with a smiling ‘Mei You!’ (Have not.) Speaking of dairy, yoghurt is a drink. Period. Must use straw at all times. The internet or lack of STILL exasperates me to the point of turning me into a crazy woman on the verge of becoming seriously unhinged, as does the constant turning on of a VPN to have access to anything remotely useful, but I figure it’s not forever, and I breathe! I’m acutely aware that everything I do, say, eat, has an alternative meaning to it in China. Tradition runs deep and is not to be messed with, like ever. If I am sick I have either worn too little or too much in the way of clothing. I will be offered coke with ginger to fix my ailment and if this fails, next stop is an IV drip, in hospital. Umbrellas are the accessory du jour, come rain, hail or shine. There is an umbrella for each season…. and never the twain shall meet. In fact a “sun umbrella” is made of reflective material to ward off the heat. White skin is king and the sun must be avoided at any cost! Even though I display clear signs of tanned sun damaged, Aussie skin, I am somehow hailed as the fair-maiden with desirable silky white skin. Note: No matter how hot it is, taking your shirt off (if you’re a man) is a no no! Rolling it up just underneath your arm pits is an accepted fashion statement. (Six pack not required!) The ubiquitous 'squat toilet' no longer sends me into state of mild panic....running for home. I can take it on with an "I am woman, hear me roar!" attitude...(who am I kidding)! There is nothing fast about Xi’an. It is the complete (end of the earth) opposite to Hong Kong’s 24 hour frenetic city on steroids pace. It's a long (noisy) wait for most things. A sense of humour isn’t a recommendation, it’s a prerequisite. So to this day, every day I am entrenched in a steep learning curve; a journey through the fascinating motherland that is China — an unparalleled universe that thankfully accepts aliens like us, in all our foreign glory! Like ET, I often want to phone home. But...we survived! A new country, a new culture, a freezing winter, heavy pollution, a scorching summer, a new school, a new job, a new hotel, a new life. One hell of an adventure. I’m glad this is not ‘my forever.’ But I'm happy it's for now. 12 months in….. this is China Proud to share this post with Seychelle Mama's #MyExpatFamily … [Read more...]
Asia Versus Europe: Let’s Play Spot the Difference!
Given it was my first time out of Asia in seven months and for the hotelier, two years (Yes! two god dam years!), it was always going to be an amusing amazing experience on all fronts! Heck, just crossing the road was going to be fraught with a little bit of excitement! And it was! "What? Errr you sure it's safe to cross on the little green man?" Apparently, yes! Yippee! Our summer destination was France! Yes, sounds quite indulgent/romantic/exotic, I know. If it makes you feel better, it was a family gathering in the north of France with a house load of kids, so you can erase any picture of us racing through fields of sunflowers in a convertible in the south of France whilst quaffing wine from the myriad of vineyards enveloping us…like so: It wasn't too shabby though. We had fields of lush wheat….stretched out in front of us like a beautiful cashmere blanket, stunning sunsets, great company (even the kids) and French food! Hello pain au chocolate, brie cheese, baguettes and French wine! Oui! Oui! And then we had Paris.....the Arc de Triomphe (circled by the Tour de France no less), the Eiffel Tower and Moulin Rouge. Ok…so it was a pretty glam holiday for us current China-dwellers. Given the circumstances, off the bat, it was obviously going to be hard not to compare. Talking countries not kids (of course)!! (Well yes, when it comes to kids given mine screeched sporadically, waking the entire homestead every night, I'd rather not go there!) But China - France? Asia versus Europe! Where to even begin! Some might say don't even bother, but for the fun of it, let's compare notes. Of course landing in France, it's hard not to notice the traffic. Mostly, for its insignificance, if anything. Instead of a game of 'eye spy' on the journey from Paris to Normandy to keep the small person amused, it was more fun to play 'Spot the Difference.' The roads were ever so orderly and everyone appeared to be managing (mostly) to stick to their own lanes…..ok so those hairy driver's zipping around the Arc de Triomphe in the middle of Paris could've probably resembled a scene straight out of downtown Xi'an, but for the most part, drivers in France were, shall we say, 'refined.' (Just don't mention the British/Aussie tourists doing circles with a dodgy sat-nav.) Mind you, as refined as they were, we did find ourselves on more than one occasion held up for more than a few minutes by road blockages in the countryside, courtesy of protests! One such protest came in the shape of traffic being ground to a halt for at least an hour....at the end of the road block, about 20 huge rigs stationed strategically across roadways, a few measly banners stating their cause and a bunch of seemingly oblivious blokes drinking beer on the roundabout! Just one police car insight. Apparently this is not unusual in France? Beeping was down to a (pleasantly) dull roar…. incredibly soothing to my now pulverized ears…the peaceful buzz of cars cruising the streets in relatively smooth fashion, a sweet symphony. Oddly, it made me a little on the nervous side though. Maybe I'm getting used to weaving through the cars in a laissez faire fashion! Speaking of stopping, um, since when did fuel stops get so fancy? Major hubs for serious coffee-refuelling at your disposal! Ok - so clearly by the very title of this blog, you'll gather I'm no coffee connoisseur, so I admit I was quite taken with the machines dispensing Kit Kat flavoured coffees. Anyone? I also came to the careful conclusion (whilst stuffing my face) in Europe just how much I miss 'normal' food. At least what I consider to be normal, anyway - as a good old Aussie bbq-loving, fish 'n' chip chewing, cheese-hoovering, seafood slurping, chocoholic. Don't get me wrong, I don't mind Chinese food, in fact give me a good plate of Dim Sum day or night but when you don't grow up with it, it's quite hard to make pig's lung and chicken feet your daily staple. No disrespect… Actually, on the food note, can I just say I was impressed with the 'service' in Paris…. people often comment that the French are notorious for being a little on the arrogant side, but for us, the fact they even spoke to us was rather refreshing. In a lot of European countries, being a waiter is a profession. I love that the middle-aged men who've obviously been on the gig for years take such pride in their service…it's almost an art, yes even in the most casual of cafes…..And language is no barrier! Mind you, I've just had a thought about the young girl who served us on one occasion in a Paris cafe and had no qualms about walking out mid service to have a smoke break at the front door. Let's call that a generation gap, shall we? The architecture is obviously different at first glance, and second.….in the country it's all cobblestones, castles and corn fields and in Paris, well what's not to love about all those dainty iron clad railings decorating the window sills …brightly colored flowers flowing freely, stunning gold statues, the magnificent Sacre-Coeur and of course the always awe-inspiring Eiffel Tower. Um did somebody say Pagoda? Incidentally, today I found myself taking a few pics of the rather impressive statues in my backyard…not quite The Colonne de Juillet but pretty slick nonetheless! Admittedly, there is also quite a lot of European influence throughout Asia. From Shanghai to Macau, even just up the road here in Xi'an, a little bit of European charm is visible. Let's talk about the language… French…. "Ooh La La!" I haven't spoken it since high school but let me reiterate, compared with 'trying to' speak Chinese, it is a dream!! Yes! I probably needed to know more than 'bonjour' and 'merci beaucoup,' but the freedom one feels when you don't have to 'sing' a language in four different pitches was highly liberating. And, signs, glorious signs that were decidedly decipherable proudly displayed before me! Put it this way, if I was in a taxi or stranded somewhere in the middle of the city, my body wouldn't kick into 'fight or flight' mode. (Any expat in Xi'an will tell you the thought of their phone battery dying whilst 'out' is their worst nightmare!) Let me just say this foreign country felt so much less foreign. In fact, when we first arrived in northern France, we almost forgot we were in a foreign country, much of it felt very English…which of course it's not really. But that's when it hits you, how different Asia really is to the West…. Without putting you off your dinner, I've got to say I reveled in the level of hygiene. Now that just sounds plain weird doesn't it! But not having to remember to use hand sanitiser Every. Single. Time we ate or Every. Single. Time we'd been out of the hotel was oh so lovely. I even (heaven forbid) laid eyes on a squat toilet, that looked relatively inviting, well as much as any toilet can. I will spare you the details, but if you've been to China you'll know what I mean. Multiculturalism….the diversity was powerful and mesmerizing to watch. Everywhere, a myriad of nationalities…all blending into the vibrant Parisian scene - vividly different skin types, hair colors and dress codes on display. Sure, in China there are other cultures in the mix, but it's mostly us few western expats meandering on the sidelines. Last but not least I can't go past that superb blue, ever so high, sky and those delicate fluffy white 'marshmallow' clouds. A rare scene in Xi'an, even on a sunny day. Fresh air! And inhale! Ahh the Eiffel Tower and all its glory…a spot for excited tourists from all over the globe to congregate and admire… and there was no mistaking the Chinese tourist. The lady decked out from head to toe in Louis Vuitton teetering on her heels waiting for her little girl to emerge from the bushes, right next to the Eiffel Tower… Ahem! And at the airport check in, ma and pa sitting on their portable seats plucked from their backpacks, while they waited for their son to deliver their passports. Not actually a bad idea, really, given the chaotic, disorganized Charles de Gaulle Airport we were unexpectedly confronted with at ten o'clock at night. There's a lot to be said for the efficiency of Asian airports! After lining up with the masses for what seemed like an eternity (two hours to be precise), we were greeted warmly with the words, 'over-sold,' 'over-booked' and 'bumped off!' Ok, so we weren't quite bumped off...but with a 12 hour long haul flight back to China in front of us it was a little mortifying to hear they had booked all three of us in separate seats. Yep, my four year old was seated on her own. Now, not that I'm saying I wouldn't love a long flight seated On. My. Own. Hell yes - movies, wine, uninterrupted sleep….but let's be real, a 4 year old can't sit on her own for 12 hours. Can she?! Apparently sitting you 'randomly' apart from each other or worse being told you're out, when you check in, is what happens…not bad if you're single and can handle an extension of your holiday with a night in a chic French hotel. Of course in all my single travels it's never happened to me. How about you? Airlines regularly overbook the number of passengers flying for the number of seats to park their behind on, because they can almost always guarantee there will be "no shows" and a lot of them. They do the same in hotels too. (Shhhh) Yep, they do the maths and then bump the ones they think they can get away with…. if you're a platinum member, a regular customer, with a family, or have booked through the hotel itself, you've got more chance of staying put (just quietly). The fact we were on a connecting flight was in our favour but the staff at check in (as helpful as they were) couldn't fix it until we got to the gate to board. So boarding pass in hand, we hightailed it, all the while I was frantically preparing my self righteous speech about how we couldn't possibly fly in such circumstances or how perhaps they might need to upgrade us to first class (surely there would be spare beds seats up the pointy end?!); or how I was quite happy for the flight attendants to have Small Person overnight if they didn't mind her being spread across their laps rolling fitfully backwards and forwards in her sleep for the entire journey! Turns out, my panic was overrated…. an incredibly calm man at check in efficiently changed our seats without so much as a "Madam, I'm sorry to say but…." and on board we went….smooth sailing. The in-flight food more than made up for it….yep, I'll admit it out loud, I am pretty tired of the oil soaked noodles and dodgy bits of chicken floating in dried up rice on most Asian flights I get. Air France your Brie cheese had me at hello. That said, coming back to 'my reality' in Xi'an, I'm instantly reminded of the intriguing and vibrantly-coloured patchwork quilt of commotion, on my doorstep! Yes, whilst, many days it has me in a state of eye rolling disbelief, it really is quite a captivating, intriguing and comical amusing place. The streets are never uniform, the people never orderly, the country is awash with uniqueness on every level and that… is NEVER dull. To borrow a quote from Forrest Gump, China's "like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get!" Chicken's feet and all! For now, this is China. … [Read more...]
“Mad Max” Scenes! The School Run in China!
So the truth of the matter is, I may well have been heard (from across the miles) whinging and moaning a few times (just a few) about the hour and a half (plus) round trip to take my daughter to school, here in China each morning. (Especially mid-winter!) But…(there's always a but)… i'll let you in on a little secret: it's actually one of the highlights of my day. (Yeh, I lead an exciting life, I know!) As an expat (especially one living in a 5-Star bubble) it's easy to avoid the real world in which you've been plonked in….and pretend you're just on a stay cation (kind of). So my forced early morning plunge into the real world is invigorating, to say the least! For starters, I'm not a morning person, so the fact that it gets me up and (presentable for the outside world) early, is not entirely a bad thing. Most of all though, I am fascinated by the kaleidoscope of color I see flying by me on the daily 45 minute journey from one side of town to the other. The eye opening sights and the cacophony of sounds have me permanently mesmerized (which often includes the crackle of fireworks, at 9am, no less)! Like any city, it's a busy time of day….and here it's a patchwork quilt of hustle and bustle in hair-raising fashion… And it's not just on the roads. I'll see workers starting the day by dancing in unison to a particularly well choreographed beat on the side of the road…(team building at its best). In winter, mini open fires are breathing a toasty warmth at chilled workers starting the day outdoors. Some people are already snoozing, in the most unlikely spots (like the side of a busy highway)! Majong games are underway…. and the elderly are exercising up a storm in local parks. Cleaners in their now familiar bright orange uniforms dot every street corner with their makeshift straw brooms, dare I say, rather aimlessly sweeping up the rubbish (not to mention dirt…they like to sweep the dirt). Water trucks cruise to the tune of "It's a small world" spraying away the dust. Street food carts line footpaths catching the work crowds for breakfast. Whatever the season, the daily drive through the manic, bumper to bumper traffic includes bikes, lots of them. Until 20 years ago, there were no cars on Xi'an's roads, so this is a city with a mammoth bike riding culture. Testament to this, is every conceivable type of bike on the road..all idling along amongst the fast cars (old and new) and snuggling beside ridiculously overcrowded busses. Three wheelers, Tuk Tuks, electric bikes, bikes with trailers, tiny push bikes with overgrown men….or one of the myriad of bright green bikes you can hire at numerous bike stations planted all over the city. Many are loaded up with precariously balanced goods including everything from white goods (i'm talking fridges and the like) to sky-high piles of rubbish, even mattresses and people, so00 many people, all on one bike sandwiched together for their morning run. Safety is naturally questionable. Crash helmets are optimal and very few are worn. Although I do see the odd "Village People" style helmet perched on the top of someone's head. Side-saddle is pretty mandatory for the ladies, often riding on the back. Texting/talking on your phone, perfectly acceptable, as is riding in the back of a trailer in the middle of the city. Umbrellas are the accessory du jour. Rain or shine, brightly coloured brollies (some edged with lace, others with spectacular patterns) are wielded to protect from the elements. Specially created umbrellas act as rainproof roofs never failing in the most blustery conditions. Raincoats come in a variety of shapes and sizes….some made to fit two people, some made to fit you and your bike. In winter, no one rides without big, warm gloves attached to the handle bars. It's never ever dull and I spend most of my time frantically trying to capture what I see, on camera (usually with little return for my investment). I know! Trying to take a photograph in a moving vehicle is largely futile! (For the record, I'm not driving!) Although here, no one would bat an eyelid if I was trying to snap a shot whilst behind the wheel! Here tackling the roads as a driver is an event like no other I've seen. I thought Hong Kong roads were wild…. looking back, they seem tame and (shock horror) rather orderly. Here it's a complete mish mash of busses, cars, bikes and people all vying for a spot almost seemingly oblivious to each other. But ironically, the system, whatever it is, works!! Most of the time, anyway. I've observed, that, on the whole, here in Xi'an, cars on the road don't really ever stop on their journey. By that I mean, there are very few traffic lights and everyone is just moving forward (sideways and backwards) albeit rather slowly….weaving in and out…but rarely do they grind to an actual halt. Invariably, this is not helping me to capture a good shot! And I don't think my driver would be too happy if I started asking him to stop every 30 seconds so I could snap the picture. Every few days though, somehow, I do manage to get a half decent one, which I've been saving to put together in this one post for your viewing pleasure. Hopefully you'll find it as much of a fascinating assault on the senses as I do. The longer I'm here, naturally the more I learn about this city and what makes it tick. Why it is what it is. I'm told, until just a few years ago, locals could more or less get their driver's license without too much effort. These days things are a little more strict and you must register with a driving school but there is no set number of driving lessons. Who needs practice eh! At first glance, it seems like drivers here drive well, terrible! (The saying getting your license in a cornflakes packet seems rather apt!) It's not uncommon to see people in brand new, rather slick cars 'stuck,' simply unable to drive them from point A to B. They've literally driven them off the showroom floor without so much as a driving lesson. It doesn't seem to matter. People (rather comically) expect this. It's probably why the rules are so few and far between. No one sticks to their lane, ever (unless on the freeway) and very very few drivers use those things we call 'blinkers'…and guess what, no one gives two hoots. (Or maybe they do?!) These people have a much more powerful tool at their disposal….it's called the mighty horn!! The horn seems to be the answer…the thing that allows drivers to weave in and out of traffic in any fashion they choose. Crossing into four lanes of oncoming traffic without so much as a hesitant foot on the break is completely normal. (For the first few months, I literally closed my eyes on the run!) The beeping is the one constant in your day! It's loud, prolonged and ear splitting! Night and day! Initially, I assumed there must be a lot of angry drivers out there. I mean, where I come from, beeping at someone means you're pretty peeved. Road rage is all the rage! Here though it acts as a type of 'warning' system. A friendly nudge, if you like (moments before the nudge)! "Hey I'm coming up behind you, move to the side"…."Hey small car, I'm moving into your lane move over…" Hey person, I'm right beside you, be careful." No one is offended by this courtesy beep…they just move ever so slightly out of the way. Interestingly, come exam time in school though, the government bans all beeping! Cars come within inches of each other (and people) but mindbogglingly rarely collide! I've seen very few major accidents around the city….the speed limit rarely gets over 40 - usually a few minor bingles are visible…which themselves cause more chaos because unless both parties can agree who's at fault, they must stay put in the exact spot they collided until the police arrive (which can take awhile). My small person and I have had the pleasure of being stuck giggling nervously in the back seat after a 'bump' with another car, while traffic edged past us in every direction on a very busy highway. (It wasn't ideal to get out….and have a gazillion Chinese men gawking at the whiteys!) The same goes for crossing the road. There's absolutely no set rule. Most people just step out without so much as a sideways glance over their shoulder… No body really waits until the little 'green' man says it's safe to cross (because it's not). Cars still keep driving directly at you without slowing down. It's you who needs to stop and let them pass, not the car. I'm always amazed more people don't get run over but somehow everyone manages to narrowly miss one another. It sounds manic (and a little frightening I know) but once you get used to it, the heart failure moments are minimized - mind you teaching the four year old road rules is probably out of the question! The one and only rule you need to remember, whoever is bigger gets to go first! There's no mistaking you're in China. It's a school run with serious attitude! This is China! … [Read more...]
Why Every Expat Needs a VPN in their Life: How to Choose One
“How do you access things like Facebook and your blog in China?” It’s one of the more common questions I get asked since moving here. And I might add, it’s a very good question! Sometimes I wonder myself! Well, it’s all thanks to a little help from a friend, called VPN. Now for someone 'technically challenged' like myself, admittedly in the past I’ve (purposely) stayed in the dark about things that happen in cyberspace. Let’s just say, it may as well be a parallel universe and never the twain shall meet! But coming to China where there is a great deal more control on what you can easily access, has forced me to open my eyes and focus on learning about those little things that can make my daily life a lot less chaotic in a foreign country. (As if it wasn’t bad enough having limited access to chocolate in China, not to mention those gazillion other things you can’t get here; having no internet or access to the things online that make your world go round can send you, quite literally, around the twist.) In fact, in all honesty, it is a wonder this laptop I’m using is still in tact, for there have been many moments of utter frustration where I’ve almost hurled it over my balcony. (Yes! That explains why the U key is missing!) If you’re not really up with the ‘censorship’ situation in China, let me give you a brief backgrounder. China's internet control system is considered more extensive and more advanced than in any other country in the world. Government authorities not only block website content but are also known to monitor the internet access of individuals. (I’m told there is actually a department within the local police bureau here, to specifically monitor internet use.) It is taken VERY seriously. Amnesty International claims that China "has the largest recorded number of imprisoned journalists and cyber-dissidents in the world." You may wonder why? Basically, the Communist Party of China wants to protect the nation’s values and political ideals from any outside influence. There are many other reasons and they go far deeper than this simplified sentence, but for obvious reasons, I will let you delve a little deeper of your own accord. For people like me, just your average expat in China, things I’ve previously taken for granted like using search engine Google (almost every waking moment) is blocked; although China has its own local search engine, Baidu, it’s in Chinese and when translated into English is not exactly ‘easy reading,’ and search results aren't always fruitful. Facebook, Twitter and YouTube are also blocked. In their place is social media platform ‘We Chat’ which is, for all intents and purposes, a great combination of Facebook, Twitter and What’s App combined. While it’s good for keeping in touch with new friends I meet in China and for keeping me up to date on the latest events in this sprawling nation; if I want to connect to the majority of my friends and family on Facebook or access my blog that helps me make a living…..along with Twitter and Instagram for that matter -- I need to call in the assistance of my good friend, the VPN. (Who I am VERY grateful for!) So what’s a VPN? VPN stands for Virtual Private Network. Essentially, it’s a way to take your public network, private. What you view online is private to you, even when you are using a public network like your internet provider or a Wi-Fi connection. In layman’s terms, every device on the internet has an IP address, which is a unique address, kind of like your home address. Just as your address gives away the country you’re in, so does your IP address. A VPN in effect allows the user to ‘trick’ websites on your whereabouts - connecting you through a server the VPN provider has set up in a specific area. From there, the IP address is made private and the person can view the internet with no restrictions or filtering in place. For example, if my VPN is switched on (which is just a click of the icon on my computer or phone) it will list a number of countries I can choose from, with a top few that give the best results for my area. Whether it be Los Angeles, Hong Kong or Australia, my address is re-routed to these countries allowing me to access whatever I normally could if I were in these places. However, it’s worth noting, as the Great Firewall of China becomes increasingly sophisticated, many VPN’s are being blocked or becoming harder to use. A couple of months ago one of the most popular paid for VPN’s - Astrill - was blocked on all Apple iPhones for at least a month in China, just like that! VPN’s aren’t just used by expats in remote locations though. Thousands of global companies use them for security - to protect valuable information on their site. It’s also a great way to bolster your own security in this high-tech era, to ensure no one is snooping on your activity, especially if you’re online in a café or somewhere like an airport. Many people use them for shopping online, on sites normally restricted to particular countries or watching programs/movies that can’t be accessed in their part of the world, like Netflix’s broad host of programs in America that may not be available in the UK or Australia. And let's be honest, what expat can live without Netflix!! (Mind you, Netflix is cracking down on people using other means to access country's programs they're not in, so it's harder to watch with a VPN. I currently need two connected at once!) Maybe you just want to watch something live as it happens like the Olympics instead of waiting for the network in your country to broadcast it? Are VPNs legal? To the best of my knowledge, using a VPN is perfectly legal so long as you’re not using to for illegal activity that causes harm to others. So, how exactly do you choose a VPN? There are now over 100 VPN services available, so it’s quite difficult to find the one that suits you. And let me just say, not all VPNs are created equal. For me it was largely a case of word of mouth and reaching out to foreigners living in China and those friends who’re technical experts! I also looked at the online site, BestVPNServicemag.com – they’ve done a lot of the leg work and even have a Top Ten VPN comparison list which was extremely useful for a non tech-head like myself. And another list from PCMag.Com Here are my top tips when choosing a VPN. #Price varies, so be sure to do your homework. Some are free but not as reliable. Work out how much you're going to rely on a VPN. Is it negotiable or a necessity? Signing up for a year is usually cheaper than month by month. #Check the compatibility with your computer and mobile system; i.e some work better with iOS, others with Android. #Check how many operating systems you can use the VPN on. Some only allow you to use it on your laptop while others allow you five different networks: say on your house computer, two lap tops and two mobile phones. #If you’re an expat try to sign up before you arrive at your destination, just in case you can’t access their website. (This is particularly relevant to China.) #Check the powers that be aren’t cracking down on specific VPN’s before you sign up and realise they’re blocked in your country. #Make sure the servers have a variety of locations to choose from, especially if you’re planning to shop on specific sites or want to watch something from a certain country. #Just because you have a VPN there’s no guarantee your access will suddenly be super fast and reliable. It’s a remarkable tool but it’s not foolproof. If internet is patchy, chances are your VPN will be too. So, there you have it….. my new best friend in China…. The VPN. I prefer to call it a VPS - Virtual Protector of (my) Sanity. And breathe…… Psst, For the record, I'm currently using three VPNs - depending on who gives me the goods when I need them! Astrill, Express VPN and Hide My Ass. … [Read more...]
Life in a Chinese City – What’s it Really Like?
China! It's the country on everybody's lips. The topical talking point on the global table. But aside from being home to the world's biggest economy, what is it really like living in one of the 654 cities, outside of Beijing or Shanghai? Ask anyone who's lived in the megalopolis that is China and they'll tell you (surprisingly) that every city is different, really different. Xi'an is commonly known as a second-tier city. Even though around 200 Chinese cities have more than one million people, the only first-tier cities are Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Shenzhen - largely due to their size, economic development, infrastructure and cultural significance. I've only been here four months, but what I've witnessed so far (as a foreigner) is a city with a fascinating fusion of sheltered innocence and simplicity perched on the edge of aggressive progression. For me, it's both intriguingly exciting and at times, scarily confronting....(if not a little mind boggling and mind blowing)! It may be 2015, but here in Xi'an, North West China, people are still smoking like it's 1975. In what is most likely a win for smokers (but perhaps not for the rest of the population), smoking inside is still a perfectly normal pastime, even though it was banned a few years ago. Bars, lobbies, restaurants and often toilets are peppered with people inhaling and exhaling with vigor. I've even seen a bus driver lighting up on the school run. There are no road rules. Crash helmets are not critical, in fact they are not even considered… and the more bodies squeezed onto the back of a bike, the merrier. Traffic for the most part is manic and let's just say you could be forgiven for thinking some driver's licenses were retrieved in the bottom of a cereal box. For more on this read School Run in China. Kids, forget about singing to the tune of "Let it Go" - the temperatures might be on the chilly side up north but it's not cold enough in town for 'Frozen,' yet. You won't find Peppa Pig jumping in muddy puddles or the latest episode of Disney movie, Planes buzzing through the cinemas. Super heroes like Batman and Spiderman are not required here. Barbie is still queen of the toy kingdom and Mickey and Minnie are still prince and princess of Disney. Even old faithful, Winnie the Pooh is met with a puzzled look from locals. Roller blades reign supreme….kites are a fashionable mode of fun for kids and the good old Rubick's Cube is making a popular comeback…or perhaps it's yet to be solved in this part of the world. Forget about leaving a message on somebody's mobile phone, voice mail simply doesn't exist. Receive a missed call and the etiquette is you'll call right back - ASAP. The mobile app What's App doesn't get a mention up here, but We Chat is where it's at. A cross between Facebook and What's App everyone and anyone is on this app. Facebook, Twitter and Google are banned but Weibo and Baidu take their place. Internet is patchy and compared to the western world, notoriously slow, but the only people you'll find complaining are the pesky foreigners! You won't see people glued to their phone on the streets (just as well because cars are driven on the footpath, so it's important to keep your wits about you)! You will find Samsung's US$7 billion semiconductor plant on the city's outskirts (the single biggest inbound investment on the mainland) along with one of the largest aviation industry manufacturers in China; not to mention 50-plus universities. When it comes to being ill and calling for a doctor, forget about a course of antibiotics by mouth, here the no frills hospital "injection" is the drug of choice. That said there are pharmacies dedicated solely to medication. Rows upon rows, boxes upon boxes bearing Chinese labels are yours for the taking, including antibiotics sans prescription. On the other hand, finding good old fashioned Vicks, Panadol and cold & flu tablets is a task in itself. Got a stomach bug? Rehydration drinks are yet to be flavored. Hydralite who? Retail shops and giant shopping malls are definitely in abundance - but just because almost everything is "made in China" doesn't mean it's here on the shelves. I wrote this post on that! It's back to the basics when it comes to stocking up on cosmetics and toiletries in supermarkets. Dental hygiene is clearly priority, with rows and rows (and rows) of toothpaste and toothbrushes up for grabs; along with a plethora of shampoos and soap! Forget about anything more advanced in the beauty department. Hairspray (at least more than one or two brands), hair product, face wipes and makeup brands are still minimal. Exposure to the western world is coming, slowly but surely - with some global brands like Starbucks, McDonalds (as recently as five years ago), KFC, Haagen Dazs and designer clothing stores like Gucci, Hugo Boss and those famous high street stores H & M and Zara making themselves heard, but for the most part, Xi'an is still a city in 'big brand' lockdown… With counterfeit culprits on every corner, every cashier you meet will scan your notes through a machine to ensure it's the genuine thing! When it comes to using credit cards, most places will only take Chinese credit cards. The local fare in Xi'an, is generally a mixture of the spicy, meaty and a little greasy. Shaanxi noodles are a hot favorite and every Chinese meal inevitably ends with a big bowl of these thick noodles, (of which it is considered highly rude not to finish). The province's famous Han Bao Bao is a tasty version of the western hamburger using a pita bread type bun to sandwich a pork filling. Pigs brain, lungs, ear; lamb's stomach, sheep's blood (need I go on)...is all perfectly normal fodder for a dinner date. Let's just say nothing is off limits or left to the imagination. Western staples like cheese, bread, butter, chocolate (yes, I call this a staple), pasta, sauces, herbs etc are available (through stealth investigation) but don't expect to get more than one or possibly two brands to make your selection from. When it comes to alcohol around here, it's all about Baijiu. This is China's infamous 60 per cent proof liquid you could be forgiven for thinking was the elixir of youth or the toast of the town! It's been brewed for thousands of years and even today at every business or formal gathering, guests must individually toast the host with a shot of Baijiu… and the host must return the favour with everyone (which can make for a very tipsy host indeed - just ask my husband). More on that here! Taste buds are evolving with red wine or "Hongjiu" starting to make its presence felt, but tradition dies hard, locals still preferring to scull it in small shot glass sizes over lunch or dinner. Outside of five star establishments, here in Xi'an, white wine is still to make a name for itself and (much to my disappointment) not to be found on too many beverage lists. In this nation of tea lovers, coffee has only recently come into play and quirky "cafes" are springing up around the city bearing menus with Mocha, Cappuccinos and Lattes, but by and large don't expect low fat milk, that stuff is for the faint hearted. It's full cream or go home. Recycling is yet to make a name for itself, in fact it's non existent. The pollution can be every bit as bad as you hear and masks are as much of an accessory as a hat and gloves. You can see it, smell it and taste it. Alternatively (and strangely) it can disappear as quickly as you can click your fingers, making way for crystal clear blue skies and sparkly sunshine. Despite a burgeoning population of 8.5 million people, Xi'an is a city where daily life still remains relatively simple. A city where the past and present is rapidly colliding, creating a culture that shyly teeters on the edge of change. One foot in, one foot out - it's tradition versus modernity with every step. This is life in an ancient Chinese city. … [Read more...]