Looking at Hong Kong with a bird's eye view, you'd be hard pressed to see how there's even the tiniest space in this jam-packed corner of the earth to develop any further! "Find me a patch of land, any land!" They roar. But that's where you're mistaken. You see I wake up (far too often for my liking) to the rather joyous sound of jack hammers jigging, bulldozers digging and cranes creaking -- which leads me to suspect, the spot where we live amongst the madness will look well and truly different in about a decade's time. Talk about a facelift! This spot is on reclaimed land (yes! I'm officially walking on water). There's a lot of that going on in Hong Kong (reclaiming land that is) in a bid to mitigate the limited supply of usable land. Since 1851 Hong Kong has seen more than 60 square kilometres of land reclaimed from the city's waterways, that's an area greater than Kowloon and nearly as large as Hong Kong Island. The West Kowloon Reclamation was completed in 1995 and was the largest reclamation ever undertaken in the urban area -- increasing the size of the Kowloon peninsula by one-third and extending the waterfront into the harbour by as much as one kilometre and today, well like I said, it is home to some fairly frenzied activity. They call it the 'Dark Side'.... this little slice of Hong Kong is still considered (and feared me thinks) by many as an unexplored entity, but let me, let YOU in on a little secret - it's one train stop from Hong Kong Island (that's ONE, you Hong Kongers). ;) Back in the day, the Kowloon Peninsula served as one of the first destinations for escape during China's dynastic times. (Why would you go anywhere else?) Apparently, the story goes: In 1287, the last emperor of the Song Dynasty, was fleeing from the mongol leader when he took refuge in a cave in the Kowloon peninsula. (Was that cave possibly WooBAR at the W?) Nope, just a twinkle in Mr Starwood's eye back then but today, the W Hotel stands tall and proud next to Ritz Carlton which occupies part of Hong Kong's tallest building, the International Commerce Centre. As the 7th tallest building in the world, this whopping skyscraper boasts 118 stories (some of which have a tendency to disappear into the clouds on those, err 'smoggy' days) and is part of the Union Square project built on top of Kowloon Station. Trivial ICC facts: It was meant to be even taller but the height was scaled back from earlier plans due to regulations that did not allow buildings to be taller than the surrounding mountains. The ICC is not without a dark past either and construction work was temporarily halted in September 2009 when an elevator shaft accident killed six workers. Kowloon Station and all that decorates it is a ten minute cab ride from the buzzing shopping hub of Tsim Sha Tsui and not far from mighty Mongkok, the busiest spot in the world. If you don't believe me...check this post out. With five residential blocks (each block containing at least two high-rises above Kowloon Station housing over 5000 units, connecting to the city's largest shopping centre, Elements (which includes an ice skating rink, the city's biggest movie theatre complex and over 20 eateries) plus an alfresco dining area flanked with international restaurants, Kowloon is becoming a force to be reckoned with...and naturally real estate has skyrocketed! Kudos to the smart ones who bought an apartment here when it was all beginning - now valued at on average HK$16-million!! And so now it expands...to the right of us West Kowloon Terminus is to blame for that constant thunder of construction - and I'm not just talking about a couple of cranes there and a digger here. There are actually 400 tunnel-boring machine operators carving out tunnel with an army of cranes and around 7000 workers on site....all this making up a constant drone hum in my day, which mostly and thankfully, I don't even notice anymore. (Panadol anyone!) West Kowloon Terminus is the terminus of the Hong Kong section of the Guangzhou–Shenzhen–Hong Kong Express Rail Link set on 25 acres. Featuring 15 platforms, it will be set up with Hong Kong customs and immigration facilities for passengers to avoid stops at the border into China. The HK$66.9bn (£5.47bn) project will provide a 26 kilometre wholly underground link between the Kowloon terminus to Huanggang in Shenzhen, connecting in to the mainland’s rapidly growing high speed rail network. It is expected that by 2016, the West Kowloon Terminus daily number of passengers carried will be about 99,000 feeding into at least 16 major destinations in mainland China. Also good news for those retail outlets in Elements currently sitting idly much of the time. It seems there is a method to their madness. You can read more about that here. The terminal will extend into the underground area of the West Kowloon Cultural District (also under construction to the left) with extensive green garden and parklands stretching across the roof area of the station. With the first phase to be completed by 2020, and the second expected to be completed by 2026, it's hoped this new vibrant cultural quarter prominently located harbourside will strengthen Hong Kong’s position as an international arts and cultural metropolis. The largest art and cultural facility in Hong Kong, the park will include a 7,000m² area featuring a free space theatre, the music box, an outdoor stage, lawn, and art pavilions. The music box will have 150 to 300 seats and feature a bar and cafe with local live music. With seats integrated into the landscaped slopes of the park, the area will be capable of accommodating 6,000 to 10,000 people during events! It will also boast an M+Museum inspired by the Museum of Modern Art in New York, which was built on the waterfront of the Victoria Harbour. The M+Museum is expected to be completed by 2017 . The Xiqu Centre will be a world-class arts venue specifically built for Xiqu (Chinese opera) performances, and it will also serve as a centre for the production, education and research of this unique art form. The whole thing directly financed by the government with an upfront endowment of HK$21.6 billion for construction and operation! It seems there is plenty of light at the end of the tunnel for the dark side. See you there... … [Read more...]
A Tale of Three Cities: What do Hong Kong, Bangkok and Manila have in common?
In the space of a week, I found myself immersed in (and as always) eagerly trying to absorb the cultures of three very different Asian cities….Hong Kong, Bangkok and Manila. I still pinch myself and wonder how it is, I ended up roaming amongst the madness of these mighty metropolises. At first glance, each share a generic constitution, brandishing that dynamic energy and exotic makeup that is typically Asian. Get close enough though and you'll see cities that showcase multiple personalities on all fronts - rich in their own culture, each full of hidden gems and distinctively amazing food. Maybe that's what really makes them typically part of Asia - the world's largest and most populous continent - home to 4.3 billion people and hosting 60 per cent of the world's population….these are three cities in Asia forever evolving. What you first see is not always what you get. For me, these are places full of untapped adventure, eye-opening customs and intoxicating lifestyles and each possess a uniqueness that makes it a Pearl of the Orient in its own right. Bangkok, The City of Angels It was my first time in Bangkok and I was keen to experience the culture this 'City of Angels' had to offer. With a population pushing 11-million the Thai capital is reputed to be equally as colorful and quirky as Hong Kong, but with a slightly edgier and little less sophisticated side than the Fragrant Harbour. A quick two hour, fifty flight away, it was a mini holiday to this tropical hub, with my husband and our small person in tow. (Ok - really who am I kidding? No flight with a toddler is ever 'quick' is it!) But, fortunately for us, this meant with hotelier friends in the 'know,' we were staying in five-star style. Met off the plane (literally) and escorted through the airport and the VIP immigration gate at a rate faster than a Grand Prix winner, bundled into a hotel car (not quite of Grand Prix proportions) before I could blink, we were headed directly into the heart of the Land of Smiles. Now, I'm used to a pretty tight squeeze on the roads in Hong Kong, but it usually involves a swarm of iconic red taxis all fighting for space, criss-crossing in and out of each other's paths, all with less than a centimetre to spare. It's chaotic but generally, feels like well organized chaos. (And surprisingly there are very few road accidents.) But Bangkok! Bangkok is a different league of traffic chaos altogether, it's not organized, it's noisy and it's manic. Giant tourist coaches, busses, cars and taxis go head to head with tiny Tuk Tuks, scooters and the very brave on foot - attempting to push cart loads of goods through the middle of the traffic jams. Everyone is competing for a spot on the tightly congested roads, with little care for anyone or any thing who gets in their way. So as we made our way through what can only be described as a 'mishmash of humanity in all its glory,' I desperately tried to soak up every piece of this patch-worked pandemonium, which at first glance felt like driving through a giant version of steamy island neighbor Phuket (minus those azure blue beaches to give it that tropical-holiday feel). I smiled as I spotted the ubiquitous and bizarrely named 'Cabbages and Condoms' chain. Yep, we're in Thailand! As we passed pretty sizable, shiny shopping centres, all boasting the big luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Prada and Gucci, I thought of Hong Kong - then there were those globally recognized franchises like Maccas and Starbucks -- which well, make you think of everywhere. Then, juxtaposing these big names in complete contrast, row after row of street food stalls and colorful markets, literally 'open for business' on every spare patch of footpath, selling everything imaginable. While there's no doubt it's this diverse in Hong Kong, markets and street food stalls tend to be confined to their specific spots across the city. So, after the traffic frenzy and market mayhem, my immediate thought was the lack of skyscrapers in this busy downtown district - but (there's a but) I'm starting to realize, after living amongst the world's skyscraper capital for a decent period of time, no city, except perhaps New York, will ever seem quite as dense or concentrated - citified! But scratch beneath the surface of Bangkok just a little, and it's soon apparent that this is a city with a savvy and stylish scene of its own. Teeming with more Five Star sanctuaries than the average island paradise, you'll be spoilt for luxury choice….day spas, infinity pools and rooftop bars proudly overlook the Bangkok hustle and bustle, that stretches out before them. There are two sides to every city. In scenes not dissimilar to the rest of Asian society, it's a place where two worlds collide and extreme poverty is interspersed with overt wealth. Graceful temples stand proud, gleaming with glistening gold-tipped spires, while beggars prey on tourists just outside, desperate for a handout.…not unlike a scene I saw today at Hong Kong's busiest markets. A spot overflowing with tourists, a disfigured beggar sitting in the middle of the path, shaking his money tin, while people literally tripped over him to get by. It's a sad fact of life in most parts of the world and we were quickly reminded, no city is immune. In one such instance, walking the streets (admittedly a little lost) a little 'street boy' no bigger than Ava rushed at her, ripping her drink bottle from her hands, having a good old slurp before I was even able to register what was happening. Not stopping there, he attempted to unzip her Peppa Pig backpack hanging on the back of the stroller and when he was given the quick brush off, attempted to take a quick chunk out of her arm, before reaching for a plastic stool and taking aim. Not a happy camper! Needless to say we hightailed it out of there in disbelief. Not all Asian cities are alike when it comes to safety and while Hong Kong is regarded as one of the safest cities in the world, Bangkok (along with many others) have their dark sides. When you can walk many of the streets of Hong Kong alone at night, it's easy to become complacent, easy to forget a handbag in prominent view could be an easy target for shrewd thieves (many who use young children to distract naive parents) in broad daylight. As we made our way through the city, resolving to keep our wits about us, the adventures came thick and fast. In truth, it's what I love most about traveling to new, unexplored and exotic places. The adrenalin that courses through your veins, as you try to navigate unknown territory, all the while putting out that calm and confident exterior. 'Naive tourist, I am not!' (As my husband gets out the map to read in full view.) ;) Having lived and breathed Asia for over three years, it's fair to say, I no longer feel like a barefaced tourist in these cities, there is a touch of traveler's credibility comforting me as we stroll the streets or chug up the river on an old fishing boat filled with other tourists. I greet the scenes with as much fervor as I always have but also with a knowing familiarity of what lies beneath these oriental cities, that feel more like home to me, every day. But I'm also blatantly aware, I'm not and never will be a 'local.' We'll always be the 'Gweilo' family with a healthy dose of the unusual about us. An oddity amongst the masses, occasionally to be looked upon with sheer amusement. No matter how long you travel in Asia, you will always be in the spotlight of some intrigued locals. Admittedly, drawing attention to one's self is not an ideal plan of attack and if anyone was giving the game away in Bangkok, it turned out to be me (not my map-reading husband). Trying to jump from an old boat, packed to the rafters, on to a rickety jetty (in heels) as it unexpectedly motors away at high speed - not such a great way to remain low key. Nor is becoming a human roundabout for more than 100 scooters, with no concern whatsoever about roaring 'around' you on a busy highway. Rushing past within millimeters, I could literally feel the wind whip my cheeks! (If we were out of place before, at this point we were clearly on display in all our ignorant road-crossing glory!) Still, naivety aside, Bangkok is the Land of Smiles and the locals didn't disappoint. For the most part, it's a very friendly nation of super relaxed people with wide, toothy smiles, eager to please at every turn of our adventure. In fact, it's not unlike my other destination that very week, the Philippines. I've said it before on this blog, they are truly a people who radiate genuine warmth. It was no five star journey on this work trip to Manila but it was service with a smile all the way. Flying the nation's own airline, Cebu Airlines was a 'pile on board and go with the flow' affair, but the flight attendants never stopped smiling and the pilot even stepped outside of his cabin to bid his passengers goodbye in person. I don't think I've ever seen that happen in all my 'flying' adventures? Not such a tourist trap, Manila is a city facing many challenges. A lot grittier than both Hong Kong and Bangkok, it is one of Asia's fastest growing economies but in contrast, it is a city that's still steeped in poverty, with a distinct third world feel. It has some catching up to its counterparts to do but despite all of this country's setbacks, it keeps on keeping on. You can read more about my adventures in the Philippines here, here and here. One thing's for sure though, Asia travel, whether it's to Hong Kong, Bangkok or Manila -- each are cities that remain ensconced in strong tradition, yet are brushed with a modern twist. Not to mention that unmistakeable Asia smell. Step off the plane in any Asian city and you are hit with the instantly recognizable and distinctly local smells that waft through the streets, reminding you, you're in the East. The quintessential Asian city showcases a harmonious blend of the old with the new, where you can't help but be captivated by the energy that runs through these oriental pearls. Each city has allowed me the opportunity to enrich my understanding of these complex, diverse and charming cultures, where everyday holds the potential for a new adventure….the opportunity to feel alive! To me, that's priceless. What about you? Tell me your biggest Asian adventure? … [Read more...]
One Night in Manila: Asia’s Forgotten City…..
When you're born in the land of the Long White Cloud - the place dubbed ‘middle-earth’ - and then raised in that other place they call 'The Land Down Under' -- getting to another country usually involves (at the very least) a good few hours up in the air. Let's face it, flying within Australia can take up to five hours and involve jet lag! So, the idea that I can be in a completely different country, new culture, new language (heck even new chopstick etiquette) within a couple of hours still manages to impress me! Suffice to say, during my time here in Asia's World City, I've managed quite a few short flights that have landed me, rather excitedly, in exotic, seemingly far-flung locations…all within the blink of an eye. With this in mind, I took my latest trip to the Philippines with a grain of salt. It’s just up the road - been there done that. That grain of salt was in fact so teensy; I didn't even check my e-ticket (properly). I'd been invited to host a corporate awards night as Master of Ceremonies (as I have done many times). But it seems the close proximity of this foreign land had me held hostage to a touch of complacency. Admittedly - I was a little sidetracked with family in town. As any expat will know, much-loved visitors on your turf means any semblance of normality is totally lost - you happily immerse yourself in the vortex of sightseeing, shopping and eating out. Every day is like a holiday in your own city (until reality bites). Click here to read more on EXPAT FOCUS … [Read more...]
From Castle to Cage: Hong Kong – A City of Contradictions
It goes without saying, the great divide exists in many countries, but Hong Kong is a place like no other when it comes to being a ‘city of contradictions.’ Never-ending rows of tall, sleek buildings jut sharply from the side of lush green mountains; tropical islands bask in azure blue seas while giant steel-clad container ships chug noisily by. All-you-can-eat Dim Sum bars and street food stalls snuggle up next to Starbucks and McDonalds. Markets selling cheap wares stand cheerfully amongst shiny designer stores; and ancient medicinal shops displaying traditional Chinese herbs reside next to modern day drug-filled pharmacies. Everywhere you turn in Hong Kong, you’re faced with a torrent of juxtaposing images. For the most part it's a pretty impressive sight! For such a tiny spot on China’s south coast, nowhere more does the old collide with the new, the real verse the fake and the east meet west. But possibly the greatest divide on show in this city - is the blaring gap between the rich and the poor. … [Read more...]
Reinventing the Wheel: From Television News Reader to Expat Mum in Asia
Last day on air as a News Reader for Sky News Australia My column for online magazine Coping with Jane…. I want my old life back! You know the feeling right? That nagging little voice in your head -- sometimes it's not so little though, it's screaming out, desperate to be heard. I suppose it’s all par for the course when you’re catapulted out of your comfort zone into a foreign land where no one speaks your language and everything from the climate to the culture is about as alien as eating a fish ball on a stick! The initiation into expat life is not all that different to those frenzied days as a new mum. To say everything feels unfamiliar is probably a gross understatement right? Babies definitely don’t speak your language and working out their culinary desires can be a far cry from your usual dinner date. I copped a double whammy. From television news reader living the (sort of) glamorous life in the harbour city of Sydney, to the unknown fragrant harbour of Hong Kong, unemployed and up the duff! I’d been with Sky News for ten years and I’d worked hard for my dream job. I always assumed when or if I was lucky enough to have a family, I’d simply do what I’d seen the other mums do before me – come back to work after a year or so of blissful baby-dom, and slot into a few shifts a week on the tele. Perfect! That was until I threw a spanner in my own destiny. Click here to read more on Coping With Jane >>> … [Read more...]
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