I’ve really struggled to write this post. I’ve procrastinated. Oh how I’ve procrastinated…sometimes choosing washing and window-cleaning over writing! Yes. I know. :roll: It’s just that - how do you sum up two years in this place? How do I describe my feelings without giving you the usual spiel about crazy drivers, squat toilets and constant fireworks erupting into the morning sky? Whilst there probably hasn’t been a day go by in these last two years where I haven’t thought, “What the heck are we doing here?!” - the ancient city of Xi'an, for all its complexities and challenges has become my home away from home, tucked in the middle of the world’s most populous country. This ‘experience’ that we’ve had (and survived) has been beyond even my wildest imagination. I often see pretty, no - make that ‘stunning’ pictures of my old, beloved home towns, Sydney and Hong Kong - on social media - and yearn for their beauty and comfort. But for all their pull, I still wouldn’t swap this journey for all the tea in China. (I know, I’ve used that line before, ironically as the title for my first blog post and two year anniversary in Hong Kong! Want to read it? Here it is.) Of course, the daily obstacles are at best, annoying! At worst, ‘crazy pulling hair out’ inducing! The necessity to stock up, when I’m out of town, with enough medication for any medical emergency that may crop up is constantly exasperating. (Thank goodness for friends who happily share their drugs when you forget an essential item!) The inability to use anything remotely technical (like a computer) with the simple push of a button, torments me. The fortnightly bouts of nausea from food, water, lack of hygiene, or whatever it may be - drains me. The impossibility to find a hairdresser who colours blonde hair or someone to wax my unruly eyebrows and so forth in a city of 9 million frustrates me. My incapability to decipher a full conversation in mandarin after studying the language consistently for two years pains me, as it does the hotelier (and many other expat workers) along with their daily frustrations at managing businesses conducted in a way that is generally foreign to us. The layers of bureaucracy for something as simple as buying groceries or getting a visa both amuse and perplex me. My lack of independence at being unable to drive bothers me and the mental muscle that’s required just to go for a coffee can be exhausting. Winter’s harsh pollution can get you down… and the constant flow of expat friends trailing out of our lives saddens us. Yet for all of these challenges, I have found myself richer in the knowledge and experience of a culture that is far removed from my own. (Not to mention given my sense of humour an incredible work out!) ;) China is a country that is evolving like no other country on the planet. No nation has ever risen as quickly or modernised as rapidly in human history as the Middle Kingdom, that is China. I know we're witnessing a truly fascinating time in history. For all of its economic glory, constant progression and seemingly infallible growth, Zhong Guo (China) is still a developing country. As I try to capture this moment in time for my upcoming book and speak to many locals and expats on the ground, I’m learning so much about these people who are known by many in the western world for little more than their uncouth behaviour when travelling overseas and a soaring economy that is currently only second behind the United States. But it is a country that until just a little over 30 years ago was utterly entrenched in poverty, having endured decades of chaos. While most people had a job, they had little money and basic commodities were scarce. In the late seventies a sign of wealth was having the so called “four big things” - a bike, a radio, a sewing machine and a watch. The People’s Republic of China is run by the Communist Party of China and has been for more than 60 years and while there's been unprecedented change, tradition runs deep. There is still an authoritarian rule from above that commands its people under a banner of glowing media headlines that constantly sing China’s praises. Most people have an overly-inflated view of their home country, which is possibly not a bad thing because the country appears united in its love for ZhongGuo. Most are oblivious to the perils of the Great Fire Wall and insist they are happy to have one party in power. Anything more and there’s a grave fear the country will fall into chaos and disunity. With a 5000 year history firmly etched in their minds, you’ll be hard pressed to find anyone who can’t recite a famous line from one of China's ancient dynasties or rattle off a centuries old poem and you’ll be just as hard pressed to find anyone who doesn’t believe in the powers of warm water. Chairman Mao who infamously ruled China from 1949 to 1978 is generally hailed a hero, despite the atrocities during his reign. His face appears on China’s currency and pictures and statues are easily identifiable around the country. His legend lives on. Education is the lifeblood of Chinese. This nation’s children live and breathe it from the moment they are born until they finish university. In a country of 1.4 billion, it’s considered the only way to get ahead. Despite being the factory floor of the world and churning out almost every product known to mankind, China’s own shop floor is lacking in goods. All is not lost though because almost every one is a mad ‘Taobao’ shopper. An online eBay equivalent, where you can order almost anything you could dream of and at a fraction of the cost. Little Tuk Tuks race all over the city, piled high with parcels to deliver! Despite having more universities than you can count, many who train medical students from all over the world and develop groundbreaking medical practices, the standard of healthcare outside the first tier cities is questionable by western expectations. Some doctors still smoke in hospital corridors, hygiene is debatable and most women have little knowledge about life saving procedures like pap smears. The one child policy has recently been relaxed but abortions at very late stages are still taking place, legally. Busses proudly display large signs advertising the best place to get one. “Don’t feel bad if you are pregnant by accident. Easy to solve if you choose wisely.” The gay and lesbian community is largely underground….(at least in most cities outside the capital). It was only in 2001 when homosexuality was removed from the official list of mental illnesses in China. And political correctness isn’t really a ‘thing’ yet, (as you may have noticed on a recent China Air travel magazine doing the rounds on social media). The gap between the rich and poor is ever increasing…. there is an elite group of Rolls Royce driving, cigar smoking, designer bag-wielding patriots who rule the masses, but overall most of China’s people are still living below the poverty line. But, there’s a but… in their minds they are rich. What they all have now compared to just a few decades ago, when most people could not eat much more than scraps is insurmountable. And it shows. These people are fiercely proud. Family is everything….oh and food! Chinese don’t greet you with how are you? If anything it’s “Chi le ma?” Have you eaten? When they are younger, grandparents take care of their grandchildren full-time, while parents work - often having them live with them. That is a given. The very elderly are automatically taken care of by their children, usually living under the same roof and that is also non negotiable. Society still believes that women should be married by the age of 27 or they’ll be tarnished as ‘leftover’ women. Thankfully, despite the ongoing pressure, most of the young women I know aren’t buying into this anymore! China's other relationship is with ‘Guanxi’ (which translates as ‘relationship or connections’) and is otherwise known as giving money and gifts to solve everything and anything. Guanxi is ingrained in society from the bottom up, in almost every aspect of life. Currently, health and Safety is largely an after thought. Whilst many thousands of years ago this country built things to last for many thousands of years — today they live only for tomorrow. China has admittedly for all intents and purposes been so busy building itself from scratch to become a viable country, it’s only now that it seems they have time to turn around and reflect. Time to start educating the masses on etiquette, hygiene and manners and time to start caring for the environment. You can appreciate, it’s a mammoth task. How do you educate over a billion people? For all of its discrepancies, China is a country where it’s (mostly) safe to walk down the streets at night, people are always happy to help you (unless you are injured and they will steer clear for fear of being held liable) and are often as friendly (and curious) as a new puppy. As much as they admittedly talk in circles and it’s often hard to know what they’re really thinking, we’ve been lucky enough to witness their kindheartedness firsthand and make some special friends. From acupuncturists who make me lunch, to hairdressers who take me for coffee, waitresses who look after my small person and locals who’ve brought me soup when I’ve been sick. To locals who've translated for doctors when my child’s been sick, translated for me many times, at all hours of the day and night and given us gifts beyond their means. People who've basically helped us adjust to life in a foreign country. There is an enduring innocence, in a place where Tai Chi, Calligraphy and Mahjong are still the hobbies of the day. Most have never travelled overseas (only six per cent have a passport) but as the country grows along with people's individual wealth, they are now starting to embrace their newfound wings. This is nation of people who are emerging like butterflies from a cocoon, ready to fly…. But you can rest assured, they will always come back to their nest. Two years in, this is what I know now. This is China. … [Read more...]
Calling SOS: An Expat in China’s Worst Nightmare
“Ummm….you want her to do what, where?!” “On an A4 piece of paper, no less?!” The doctor’s office, Xi’an circa 2015. Ask any expat in Xi’an, what their worst fear is, living in China….and usually at the top of the list (next to pollution) is: getting sick! Or even worse, your kids getting sick. I’m not gonna lie, healthcare in China, well, second-tier China at least, is not as we know it. The inevitable language barrier only adding to what can range from a rather amusing experience (you can read all about a couple of such trips to the local doctor we had here, including our visa medical) to a downright terrifying one! Rewind this time 12 months ago and my ‘Small Person’ got sick with gastro. A bug that literally debilitated her for about five days…and then of course went through most of the family including our visitors (an expat’s second worst nightmare)! With no sign of improvement it was time to get our three year old to a local doctor, which in China usually means the hospital. With me down and out, wavering in and out of any coherent ability to function, the hotelier had the unenviable task of dragging her out of bed and taking her to the one and only English speaking doctor in the city. On cue she was asked to give a number two sample. All relatively straightforward, I guess…except for the small fact that she hadn’t eaten for days, so this was about as likely to happen as a China winter with no pollution! Alas, this small but pertinent issue aside….she was encouraged to produce it there and then, IN the doctor’s room, ON the doctor’s floor, ON a piece of A4 paper (actually, make that half a piece of A4). What I would give to see the look on the hotelier's face! ;) Thankfully that and the time we had to take Small Person with croup in to the hospital to use their nebuliser (we’ve since invested in our own to save on the trauma) means our hospital experiences have been limited. For other expats, it seems lessons have been learned. A recent Facebook status by a fellow expat says it all: “My boy fell and split his head open, we opted to try and fix it ourselves to avoid the trauma of a Chinese hospital.” Expats who live here for any length of time become masters at diagnosing and treating themselves with a host of medical supplies they’ve stocked up on from back home. I’ve even heard the story of one woman who’s been here for eight years and literally lanced and sterilised her child’s infected toe, herself! The trauma of this far less than the ordeal of visiting a local hospital. Another friend went to the doctor about a small gastro problem (unfortunately more common than us Wai Guo ren (foreigners) would like) and was promptly admitted to hospital, indefinitely. In what could be the worst situation to be sans toilet paper, his bathroom was devoid of all manner of toilet accessories! (BYO?). And to top if off, his only option for dinner, extremely spicy, pickled food. Not so soothing for the Du zi (tummy). Needless to say, he checked himself out, pronto! A girlfriend’s little girl contracted pneumonia, which here in China means a daily trip in to the hospital to be treated with intravenous antibiotics. Oral antibiotics aren’t given out and there is only one type of broad spectrum antibiotic used for all of the potentially different strains. After three days of sitting in a chair lined up with a bunch of other sick children, her little hand taped to cardboard and the IV inserted, they insisted she be admitted to hospital. (FYI children under the age of two have the IV drip administered in their forehead! Not the most comfortable or comforting sight!) My friend had the good fortune of being in a private hospital, which of course, like anywhere in the world is more often than not a step up from the public hospital. Even better at 600RMB a night, it was the VIP room. Still, no food was supplied….and it was BYO towels, soap....and Dettol. While you might be expecting hygiene in a hospital (of all places) to be up to scratch…let’s just say, here, in China, it’s not exactly an environment awash with disinfectant. My friend was partially relieved to see a mop present, but that relief was short-lived when she realised it was used (usually minus cleaning supplies) about as regularly as the sheets were changed….weekly! Another friend has regular medication she needs to go into hospital, to get, weekly (because they won't administer any more than a week's dose). There is one dosage administered for ALL patients regardless of the patient’s individual requirements. (Is it just me, or does this have disaster written all over it?!) And I'm guessing it's not a good sign when the doctor asks you 'which' medication you think you might need?! "Wait, what I have the flu and you want to give me an injection?" In China one such medical thought process is that an injection is far more beneficial because it enters the bloodstream quicker than oral antibiotics. In all reality, if someone is seriously ill, most expats won’t hesitate to fly themselves or their children out to a major city like Hong Kong for treatment. Thankfully there is a medical helpline called International SOS, whom most foreign companies are affiliated with. You can call up and speak English to professional doctors and send x-rays and test results to them to garner a second opinion, anytime you need to. They’ll also arrange for you to fly out. (Note: make sure you have international health insurance because without it, anything like this costs a small fortune and local health plans generally won’t cover evacuation or repatriation coverage)!! For anyone, it’s a frightening thought to be stuck in a foreign hospital, let alone one where you don’t speak the language and don’t understand the process…. health insurance is an expat's best friend the world over, here in China, it's a necessity - especially with international medical insurers offering direct settlement at expat-friendly hospitals like United Family Hospital and Parkway Hospital in first tier cities like Shanghai and Beijing. Handy to know, if you don't want to fly out in a non-emergency event. Despite these glaring anomalies that exist between the Eastern and Western medical worlds, healthcare in China has come a long way. The Chinese government recently declared the pursuit of “Healthy China 2020,” a program to provide universal healthcare access and treatment for all of China by the year 2020. As of now 95 per cent of Chinese have some form of health cover but as encouraging as that is, bringing a population of 1.3 billion people out of the third world and into the 21st Century is not without it’s challenges. While it means more locals than ever before now have access to major healthcare centres and hospitals - these centres are still playing catch up -- the number of properly trained doctors and nurses are struggling to keep pace with demand for care. In China, it's unusual to get a formal appointment, mostly its about lining up and that can mean standing in an overcrowded room for hours on end to register yourself and then pre-pay your account. Often, no matter how sick you might be, if there is no signature or no money, treatment is put on hold! Note: A) This is potentially a little tricky if you can’t read the forms and B) a little dangerous if it’s a life and death situation. Medical professors coming to Xi’an have declared the city 30 years behind in modern medical techniques. Unfortunately being a doctor in China is not all it's cracked up to be. It's not considered as prestigious a role as it is in the Western world and GPs are chronically underpaid. While the government caps the prices of common medicines, other prescriptions come with kickbacks for the doctor leading to overprescription of expensive drugs, imaging tests and unnecessary and lengthy hospital stays. (Have gastro, don't expect a quick exit!!) For many Chinese families, an emergency medical procedure means going into debt. There is still a widespread perception that to get top quality care you need to show doctors Guan xi (relationship) or hong bao — red envelopes stuffed with cash. A Chinese friend who had her baby in Xi’an a few years ago, had to do just this to make sure she could have her baby in what was deemed one of the city’s better hospitals. Hospitals in China are categorized through a system of numbers and letters, with the highest quality hospitals in the country being allocated the number 3 and the letter A. A 3B hospital will be slightly lower quality and 3C even lower still. Husband’s are still generally not allowed into the delivery room for the baby's birth….and the protocol is often on the patients to fend for themselves. My friend’s delivery was by no means straightforward and happened quickly. She had to hoist herself from the waiting bed to the delivery bed with no help whatsoever (mid labour)! (In China, most doctors won’t lift you for fear of being held liable, if something goes wrong.) The same happened when the hotelier was visiting a sick colleague in hospital (with a head injury, I might add) and he had to be lifted from one bed to another. His parents and my husband had the honours. During the delivery of my friend’s baby, the nurse refused to do a much-needed episiotomy unless she signed the papers, right then and there, during the height of labour!! No pen? What! Just reach for that handbag above your head! While you’re at it, be ready to write down the time, weight and date of birth yourself! (What do you think this is, a hospital!!??!) Perhaps as an expat, the best option is to stick with TCM - Traditional Chinese Medicine! Most hospitals also have a TCM section where you can have a consultation and purchase your remedies there and then. It is after all, considered China's national treasure. Proven over thousands of years, how can you go wrong? As they say....when in Rome..... This is China! Psst.. a new expat and (after i've scared the c--p out of you) need to look at health insurance plans?....This might help. … [Read more...]