7:50am, I check the weather app. It’s just nudging one degree.
Coat? Check. Gloves? Check. Hat? Check. Mask? Check!
Schoolbag, let’s go.
Now that I am into my second winter in North West China, I like to brag that I’m perhaps a little more hardy. Wrapped tightly in thermals last year, now I can probably go without the gloves and the hat, if it’s just a quick drop off.
The mask, no.
It’s the crucial must-have accessory you can’t leave home without (during winter at least) and it’s not just any old mask. This baby provides superior protection and comes complete with its own air filter. (Bonus, it comes in many different colours and designs! Cue hashtag #StayingStylishinSmog !)
Just for the record, we did manage an entire spring/summer without so much as a whiff of bad air. No masks required.
Currently, I find myself checking the AQI (aka Air Quality Index) on the pollution app more frequently than I check the weather app. I cringe as I watch it turn purple and flick to above 200. The words “Heavily Polluted” glare at me. The little red icon beside it telling me to make sure I wear a mask and avoid outdoor activities. Just to put it into perspective, the World Health Organisation deems 25 micrograms per cubic metre to be a healthy level.
Last year we’d just arrived and I was conveniently oblivious to the smoggy haze we encountered….especially when many locals dismissed it as fog! To be fair though, the pollution at the same time last year was (literally) nothing to write home about. This year, winter has only just begun and the sunny, clear days are in short supply. There’s talk amongst those who’ve been here longer that it’s a return to earlier years when it was like a scene from the movie, The Apocalypse.
Perhaps last year, we just got lucky. (Thoughts of our impending trip to Malaysia’s clear air and sunshine currently keeping me from climbing under the covers and staying put for the duration of winter!)
There’s no hiding my head in the sand (or the covers) though, whether I want to or not, life must go on! And whether I like it or not, I’m starting to learn a lot more about ‘pollution’ – checking the map and recognising the danger zones….keeping a close eye on the PM2.5 levels. (They’re the worst apparently and when the line on your phone turns purple, it’s not pretty). They are scarily the tiniest of tiny air particles that are finer than a human hair and can slip inside your lungs.
Anything above 200 on the monitor and our international school is in lockdown, no one goes out to play. Air purifiers and humidifiers are buzzing in classrooms 24/7.
We are about to purchase our third air purifier for our apartment.
At local Chinese schools though, life continues on as per usual.
Not in Beijing today though. China’s capital has issued it’s first RED alert. Ever. (This is the highest level in the system.)
It’s effective for 53 hours and imposes the toughest restrictions on activities that may contribute to the pollution levels, including a ban on the use of half the city’s cars – which is nearly 2.5 million cars a day. (Even number plates one day, odd the next.) Heavy goods vehicles are barred from the roads with subway services extending operating hours to cope. Major companies in polluted industries must restrict or suspend production. Activities at all construction sites are banned. Schools closed.
During this time the government is assuring that all major power plants, steel and metal works, coking and cement factories are under investigation, presumably to weed out those not following regulations.
China is the world’s largest greenhouse gas emitter, but says it aims to halve its emissions peak by 2030.
During last week’s climate talks in Paris, as President Xi Jinping promised to play an active role, we watched as the pollution embarrassingly topped hazardous levels, reaching 745 in some places. There was much criticism over the government’s failure to post a red alert.
In Xi’an last week it wasn’t much better. At one point, it reached an alarming 500. Friends gave up trying to get to work. A freeway lost in a cloud of pea soup…cars were colliding left, right and centre; some lost and on the wrong side of the road!
Flights were cancelled and the airport was chaos.
Miraculously a day later, the levels dropped and our phones lit up with vibrant green alerts, signalling ‘Excellent’ weather.
Admittedly, I’m still really no clearer as to what ‘exactly’ causes the pollution here in China.
Ask locals, read the papers, check websites and there are a multitude of reasons given; from low temperatures so early in the season, to the low quality coal that is burned across north China in the winter to fuel the heating. From the number of factories pumping out emissions to keep up with world demand (yes, as the world’s factory floor, the production levels are intense) to farmer’s on a harvesting mission…… and with a population in the billions rapidly growing it’s wealth status, the sheer number of cars now trawling the roads.
Trivial Fact: In 2012 Chinese consumed nearly 4 billion tons of coal, almost as much as the rest of the world combined.
Whatever the culprit, and perhaps we’ll never really know — with no wind in sight, pollutants tend to hover near ground level…last week we watched the wind blow through, miraculously dispersing the pollutants, making way for five days of crystal clear blue skies. Heaven.
We’ve also seen what happens when the government signals a crack down — coal burning slows and the factories are told to operate at the bare minimum; then like magic, blue sky reigns supreme and the air is suddenly pure.
The world watched on in amazement last September as a sunny, blue Beijing presented a show-stopping military parade to mark the 70th anniversary of the end of World War II. They didn’t just ‘get lucky’ for months leading up to the spectacle, China enforced strict rules in a barefaced attempt to reduce pollution.
Today, on the school run, much to my relief, I spot more locals wearing masks — news of the sky rocketing levels clearly filtering through. That said, I still spy Xi’an’s senior citizens out on the exercise equipment in the local park, mask free, continuing on with their daily routine, most likely unphased by the sooty, bleak skies above.
After all…..
This is China.
And breathe….(or not).
Proud to share this over on Seychelles Mama’s #MyExpatFamily
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Bex says
Reminds me so much of our days in Beijing. I could cope with everything else about China, except the pollution. We had three air filters too! And our apartment was tiny. It didn’t help that I was pregnant for the first time. The expats in my circle of friends would try to take breaks from the city as much as possible over winter. We were there 2012/13. There was a lot of smog. I hope the wind keeps blowing the smog through. Take care.
Nicole Webb says
Hi Bex, thanks so much for your comments! Having lived in Beijing you’ll definitely relate to some of my posts. The pollution can be very depressing! Thankfully we’re coming into some warmer weather and it’s been refreshingly absent!! 🙂 Meantime I’ve just ordered another mask (just in case)! Cheers, Nicole x PS …took a peek at your blog…lovely!!
Laura WOlf says
Our pollution is bad but not nearly like yours, we don’t wear masks, we just avoid going outside on the days that are the worst. I know when everyday is terrible that isn’t an option. It is worse in the winter in Taiwan as well….we have been in the States for the last two months so I am anxious to see what it is like in Taiwan when we get back.
On another note…where are you going in Malaysia? We went last year and loved it!
Laura WOlf recently posted…Make a Difference not a Statement
Nicole Webb says
Hi Laura, yes I imagine Taiwan is similar to Hong Kong as far as pollution goes. In HK while it can be bad, we really never wore masks….Ava occasionally and the city’s so pretty we were probably in denial about it. Ha ha. Here in Xi’an though, it has a definite smell…burning…and it is really really hard to pretend it’s not happening. ha ha. At the moment we can’t go outside without a mask. The last two weeks have been hideous. Hoping it clears soon. Snow is forecast next week!
Langkawi is where we went in Malaysia and it was amazing!!! Just what we needed. A good break, with the beach and fresh air. 🙂 Hope your transition from holidays in the US back to Taiwan goes smoothly! xx
Seychellesmama says
Wow Nicole,this is seriously scary! I had obviously heard about China’s pollution but I never had any idea it was really as bad as that, or as dangerous. I sort of love, yet seriously shudder at the thought of the ‘old school’ locals refusing masks.
I love your hashtag, got to stay looking stylish in the smoggy conditions 🙂 not that anyone can see each other by the sound of it haha!
Also I had no idea it got that cold, I’m clearly very naive to all things China, I always learn something new when I come onto your blog.
Thank you so much for sharing this with #myexpatfamily xx
Seychellesmama recently posted…My Expat Family 17
Nicole Webb says
Hi there, ha ha don’t worry, before I lived here I had no idea either. It’s been such an eye opener and hopefully I can shed some light on this crazy country for many others. It’s definitely one heck of an experience!! Thanks for having me again on #MyExpatFamily xx
Eline @ Pasta & Patchwork says
Golly, I have to say I don’t envy you this. We moved from Milan to a small town in southern Sweden a few months ago. The pollution levels in our old home have been hazardous enough to force emergency measures in the last couple of weeks too, and I am glad we are no longer there. Nowhere is perfect of course – I’m now faced with the near-impossible task of getting my son to take cod liver oil so he gets enough vitamin D in the dark Swedish winter!
Hope you find a way of making it through your winter’s challenges.
Eline @ Pasta & Patchwork recently posted…{The Ordinary Moments} #33 – Finger Counting
Nicole Webb says
Ahh yes the good old cod liver oil!! I am giving this to my small person too…highly recommended by our naturopath (along with a gazillion other things to try and stay healthy this winter which is so hard in this climate with the pollution)! Escaping to Malaysia’s sunshine on Friday for a week which really can’t come soon enough. Hope you can have a break from the dark Swedish winter too. I’ve never been to Northern Europe but ironically have met a lot of people from that part of the world here in Xi’an, China so it’s definitely on the cards!! Thanks for popping over. Hope to see you here again soon. Cheers, Nicole