7:50am, I check the weather app. It's just nudging one degree. Coat? Check. Gloves? Check. Hat? Check. Mask? Check! Schoolbag, let's go. Now that I am into my second winter in North West China, I like to brag that I'm perhaps a little more hardy. Wrapped tightly in thermals last year, now I can probably go without the gloves and the hat, if it's just a quick drop off. The mask, no. It's the crucial must-have accessory you can't leave home without (during winter at least) and it's not just any old mask. This baby provides superior protection and comes complete with its own air filter. (Bonus, it comes in many different colours and designs! Cue hashtag #StayingStylishinSmog !) Just for the record, we did manage an entire spring/summer without so much as a whiff of bad air. No masks required. Currently, I find myself checking the AQI (aka Air Quality Index) on the pollution app more frequently than I check the weather app. I cringe as I watch it turn purple and flick to above 200. The words "Heavily Polluted" glare at me. The little red icon beside it telling me to make sure I wear a mask and avoid outdoor activities. Just to put it into perspective, the World Health Organisation deems 25 micrograms per cubic metre to be a healthy level. Last year we'd just arrived and I was conveniently oblivious to the smoggy haze we encountered....especially when many locals dismissed it as fog! To be fair though, the pollution at the same time last year was (literally) nothing to write home about. This year, winter has only just begun and the sunny, clear days are in short supply. There's talk amongst those who've been here longer that it's a return to earlier years when it was like a scene from the movie, The Apocalypse. Perhaps last year, we just got lucky. (Thoughts of our impending trip to Malaysia's clear air and sunshine currently keeping me from climbing under the covers and staying put for the duration of winter!) There's no hiding my head in the sand (or the covers) though, whether I want to or not, life must go on! And whether I like it or not, I'm starting to learn a lot more about 'pollution' - checking the map and recognising the danger zones....keeping a close eye on the PM2.5 levels. (They're the worst apparently and when the line on your phone turns purple, it's not pretty). They are scarily the tiniest of tiny air particles that are finer than a human hair and can slip inside your lungs. Anything above 200 on the monitor and our international school is in lockdown, no one goes out to play. Air purifiers and humidifiers are buzzing in classrooms 24/7. We are about to purchase our third air purifier for our apartment. At local Chinese schools though, life continues on as per usual. Not in Beijing today though. China's capital has issued it's first RED alert. Ever. (This is the highest level in the system.) It's effective for 53 hours and imposes the toughest restrictions on activities that may contribute to the pollution levels, including a ban on the use of half the city's cars - which is nearly 2.5 million cars a day. (Even number plates one day, odd the next.) Heavy goods vehicles are barred from the roads with subway services extending operating hours to cope. Major companies in polluted industries must restrict or suspend production. Activities at all construction sites are banned. Schools closed. During this time the government is assuring that all major power plants, steel and metal works, coking and cement factories are under investigation, presumably to weed out those not following regulations. China is the world's largest greenhouse gas emitter, but says it aims to halve its emissions peak by 2030. During last week's climate talks in Paris, as President Xi Jinping promised to play an active role, we watched as the pollution embarrassingly topped hazardous levels, reaching 745 in some places. There was much criticism over the government's failure to post a red alert. In Xi'an last week it wasn't much better. At one point, it reached an alarming 500. Friends gave up trying to get to work. A freeway lost in a cloud of pea soup...cars were colliding left, right and centre; some lost and on the wrong side of the road! Flights were cancelled and the airport was chaos. Miraculously a day later, the levels dropped and our phones lit up with vibrant green alerts, signalling 'Excellent' weather. Admittedly, I'm still really no clearer as to what 'exactly' causes the pollution here in China. Ask locals, read the papers, check websites and there are a multitude of reasons given; from low temperatures so early in the season, to the low quality coal that is burned across north China in the winter to fuel the heating. From the number of factories pumping out emissions to keep up with world demand (yes, as the world's factory floor, the production levels are intense) to farmer's on a harvesting mission...... and with a population in the billions rapidly growing it's wealth status, the sheer number of cars now trawling the roads. Trivial Fact: In 2012 Chinese consumed nearly 4 billion tons of coal, almost as much as the rest of the world combined. Whatever the culprit, and perhaps we'll never really know -- with no wind in sight, pollutants tend to hover near ground level...last week we watched the wind blow through, miraculously dispersing the pollutants, making way for five days of crystal clear blue skies. Heaven. We've also seen what happens when the government signals a crack down -- coal burning slows and the factories are told to operate at the bare minimum; then like magic, blue sky reigns supreme and the air is suddenly pure. The world watched on in amazement last September as a sunny, blue Beijing presented a show-stopping military parade to mark the 70th anniversary of the end of World War II. They didn't just 'get lucky' for months leading up to the spectacle, China enforced strict rules in a barefaced attempt to reduce pollution. Today, on the school run, much to my relief, I spot more locals wearing masks -- news of the sky rocketing levels clearly filtering through. That said, I still spy Xi'an's senior citizens out on the exercise equipment in the local park, mask free, continuing on with their daily routine, most likely unphased by the sooty, bleak skies above. After all..... This is China. And breathe....(or not). Proud to share this over on Seychelles Mama's #MyExpatFamily … [Read more...]
A Week in the Life of One Expat in China…..
One of my delightful blog readers said she’d love to hear about a typical day in my life, here in China. While I’ve rattled on about various expat experiences, I’ve probably tried to spare you the gory details of my day to day trivialities! And at the risk of boring you all to tears, mostly my days are not too dissimilar to those I might have back at home. Still, visitors always ask me, “What do you do all day, here in this mad city?” Well, in a nutshell, I take my daughter to and from school, I work, I do chores, I have coffee, I shop! The usual! But wait! Before you hit delete…. there’s (probably) more! Yes, admittedly, there are a few little challenges/hiccups/weird 'China moments' in between that run of the mill stuff. A year in, for much of it, I don’t bat an eyelid… Perhaps this is my new normal? I’ll let you be the judge. Instead of a day in the life, here’s what a “typical” week might look like in the middle of China! Monday: Brace myself for the mad school run! These days most drivers we have (which is whoever happens to be available from the hotel, where we live) don’t speak any English. Like nada! This means there’s a lot of nodding, smiling and charades. But at 7:50am, charades can be a bit much so it's with a 'Nihao' we roar off along Xi'an's roads, swarming with erratic morning traffic. Ava is strapped into her car seat, but it’s not compulsory. (She could be sitting on the roof for all they care….Yes really!) Depending on the driver, I’m either listening to blaring talkback radio in Chinese (at least it sounds like it to my oblivious ears), Country and Western (in English) or some big tunes from seventies rock stars like The Eagles! (Don't ask me about the latest hits…...Ed Sheeran who?) Or it’s radio silence…just the cacophony of horns to hum along to, with the odd crackling of random fire crackers to break up the relentless screeching of horns. 40 minutes later, (at least) 20 near misses with various busses, bikes and trikes (a few expletives under my breath later) and we arrive at school. (For more on what it's like...you can read this post!) We stumble out of the car and weave our way through cars coming in all directions to cross the road to school. (In the early days we could be stuck there for who knows how long! I now (smugly) feel quite accomplished at crossing the road.) The security guard at the gate greets us with a big, smiling ‘Zao Shang Hao’ (Good Morning) and we roll in to what is one of Xi’an’s three international schools. Ironically most of the foreigners here, happen to be teachers and their kids (and make up a large portion of my new found friends). Ava’s school is an International Baccalaureate school with students made up largely of Koreans and Chinese and then about two dozen or so are westerners from England to America, Europe the Middle East and beyond. At the entrance, a board tells us the temp for the day and the all important pollution levels. If its over 200, it means the kids won’t be playing outside. For most of the spring/summer months it’s low and we don’t think about it too much. Come winter, it’s a different story. Coal powered heaters are fired up across town and it’s a speedy run through the chilled winter air, up to our necks in puffer jackets, scarves and masks, ready to do battle with a smoggy environment. Tuesday: A year in China and it’s time for a visa renewal run, so that we can stay another year! (If we so wish). Thank God, we are not required to go through the ridiculous rigorous medical we were subjected to last year! (Read about that debacle here.) Nope this is just a quick sit down in front of a camera for a photo and a very smiley (please let us stay) ‘Nihao’ to the lady, who it seems has the power to push this through very quickly IF we give the right look (and enough cash). Without the hotel's HR person to fill in countless forms and visit several different departments, we would be utterly lost! No two ways about it. There is zero English spoken in any of these departments. I head to school with Ava while the hotelier hails a cab and tells the driver where to take him in Chinese! (A proud moment in itself!) This afternoon, it’s time for my Chinese lesson, which usually fills me with a mix of both dread and determination. I pick Ava up from school (aka drag her kicking and screaming from the playground) to make the slightly less chaotic afternoon run home. The driver is asleep as we approach….it seems in China they will take every opportunity for a quick snooze. I have to knock on the window and probably scare the living daylights out of him! Home (well, to the hotel’s business centre where I have my 1.5 hour lesson) and my Lao shi (teacher) meets us in the hotel lobby (while our Chinese Bao mu (babysitter) who also works in the hotel restaurant, takes Ava (which usually involves too many cupcakes, barbies and some Chinese singing for an hour or two)! This afternoon we are learning the ins and outs of a house…furniture, computers, washing machines….upstairs, downstairs, front gardens…..I inhale yet another coffee to keep me focussed…… Wednesday: International day at school means everyone’s dressing in their local costume and bringing dishes from all over the world. Small Person is dressed as an Australian cow girl in her Akubra. Most days after school, I let her play for half an hour in the playground with the other kids who aren’t taking the bus (most do, many of them as young as three). I’m always intrigued by the myriad of different languages that buzz around me while I wait. It’s interesting to see how birds of a feather flock together. Most of the Chinese parents huddle together in one corner, the Koreans in the other, and the rest of the westerners hang about….(usually waiting for the inevitable scream of a child galloping through the playground in tears of either joy or the 'someone's just pushed me' variety…). The lack of mingling is largely due to the language barrier… That said, for the Small Person, having children in her class that don't speak English is perfectly normal and inspiringly, no obstacle to their communication. There is a huge Korean population in Xi’an due to Samsung having its largest plant outside of Korea, here. Many of my neighbours are Korean and many of Small Person’s classmates are Korean. There's even a Little Korea Town, where I've just enjoyed my first authentic Korean BBQ. Tonight, I arrive home to a new addition to the house! We have a new lounge! I didn’t ask for it, but it's all part of the original ‘hotel residence’ plans that went on hold. Now it's finished, I'm not complaining. But this construction site on my balcony means I’ve had many random strangers hanging outside my home day in, day out for several months, now. Sometimes they are sleeping, often they are spitting, shouting and smoking and occasionally they are eating lunch or dinner with their families (on my outdoor table) as the sun sets! Nice for some! Thursday: We (excitedly) have visitors in town all the way from the Land Down Under…and today I accompany them to see the famous Muslim Quarter. It’s Golden Week, so crowds are even more mammoth than usual. We inch through the chaos, shoulder to shoulder. Bikes loaded sky high try to defy the law of nature and squeeze through the solid crowds (hopefully without running over someone’s toes)! Our visitors' eyes have that boggled look that says, "Get me the hell out of here!" Today smoke is thick in our faces from so much street food being sizzled and seared…. we escape down a side alley way to the Great Mosque entrance for some tranquility….and breathe. After a wander around, the big question: If it’s not street food, where to eat? We decide, with five kids in tow, Maccas is a good option. For a start they have toilets. The line though is out the door. With a long day ahead, we have no choice but to wait almost an hour in the queue - the only white people being eye-balled up and down by rather amused locals. A few are game to take photos and attempt to snuggle into our small people. There’s a good reason my first words learnt in Mandarin were “Please don’t touch her!” We pray there is a western style toilet at our destination, but at the end of the line we find three terribly messy (and believe you me, this is being polite) squat toilets …even better with doors that don’t lock and keep swinging open revealing all and sundry! (Those revealed, don’t seem to mind)! We decide to grimace grin and bear it and I attempt to give my visitors a quick lesson in the art of squatting, whilst wearing jeans and boots! There’s a lot of shrieking and giggling amongst the undeniable horror! Chant the mantra: Friday: It’s the Australian Football Grand Final….our expat friends invite us over for a good ole Aussie shindig. How can we refuse!! Of course the number of Aussies in town is few and far between so we rally in the Americans and the English as well (who stare blankly at the fast paced game of footy) and we chow down on some homemade Aussie pies. A non-baker I’m usually the one bearing the cheese platter and wine (also because living in a hotel I’m fortunate to have access to some decent cheese!). Later and we’ve agreed to meet some newbies in town. An american couple (readers of this blog) have been asked to come on secondment to Xi’an. They are keen to get the lowdown. I try not to scare them too much as they sit with us not knowing whether to laugh or cry, gripping their glass of wine just a little too tightly. (I remember the feeling, well!) Saturday We’ve signed up (or rather my lovely husband signed me up) for a Charity Run as part of the Starwood Hotels ‘Run to Give’ campaign. I am not really a runner, so the fact that we are up early and standing on Xi’an’s ancient city wall on a Saturday morning ready to race around it is in itself quite baffling, but admittedly quite a stunning start to the day! There’s a huge turnout, the sky is unusually blue with not much hint of pollution and it’s warm. As I huff and puff my way around the wall built thousands of years ago, looking at the red Chinese lanterns swinging in the morning light, I wonder how I got here. A friend's birthday means we are all going for Chinese Hot Pot, which is an extremely popular outing in much of China. This time we are given our own little pots, which sit just to the left of us on hotplates hidden under the table. Once they are bubbling, you add your fresh meat, noodles and cook yourself. (Note to self: don't put phone on table near hot plate!) Sunday The hotel is on high alert today, the red carpet has been rolled out (literally)! Despite Xi’an’s location (seemingly in the middle of nowhere), we seem to get a lot of VIP’s popping in. (Indian PM, former US President Jimmy Carter.) Today it’s the Russian Deputy PM along with China’s Deputy. (Both women I might add!) Police have closed off roads around the hotel and seem to be hanging everywhere! A mobile scanner is set up outside the hotel for bags and for a brief period no one is allowed in or out. The hotelier is running around like a chook with his head cut off….(nothing new there) and the grand ballroom is fit for a king! Later I manage to escape from the hotel to get to the hairdresser for a blow-dry. I can’t mention my typical week in China without mentioning this place. It is a place that has both intimidated and invigorated me over the last 12 months. For a start only one of the dozen staff can speak any English…so over the year there has been a lot of staring at me - repeat, a lot! Thankfully as time goes on we are all becoming more comfortable with one another. I am no longer the foreign species on the block to be prodded and poked. My visit is not your typical visit to a hairdresser where it’s all about the endless flow of coffee, head massages and trashy magazines. Sadly, there are none of these luxuries….instead, I am given a full immersion into Chinese, whether I like it or not. My Chinese book is ogled by the locals, keen to see what this strange foreigner is learning….I am made to repeat the words out loud…and conversation is mostly in Chinese. (Which whilst at the time leaves me feeling like I've been dragged through a bush backwards is ultimately invaluable.) This week I’ve been shopping and my excited bevy of onlookers want to know what the crazy lady has in the bags. For a brief moment (again) I feel like I am on another planet ….and then I hear Madonna’s ‘Get into the Groove’ playing across the salon and I smile to myself. You see, I know the words! It’s the one moment in which I have the upper hand in an otherwise alien environment. I walk home to get ready for the afternoon school run…. I see a mum holding her child over a drain, for the toilet…..someone else is squatting down low on the side of the road eating their lunch (who needs a seat), street carts are parked on every corner bearing all sorts of indecipherable goodies, cars ride along pavements, their horns honking…. and people are generally shouting at each other (all in the name of normal conversation). Of course, the rest of my week I can be found at my desk, writing, working….doing chores…just like any other working mum. A week in my life….all fairly normal stuff. Or is it? I don’t really know anymore. This is China. *Note: I may take creative license with the actual days and times of said events. … [Read more...]
Asia Versus Europe: Let’s Play Spot the Difference!
Given it was my first time out of Asia in seven months and for the hotelier, two years (Yes! two god dam years!), it was always going to be an amusing amazing experience on all fronts! Heck, just crossing the road was going to be fraught with a little bit of excitement! And it was! "What? Errr you sure it's safe to cross on the little green man?" Apparently, yes! Yippee! Our summer destination was France! Yes, sounds quite indulgent/romantic/exotic, I know. If it makes you feel better, it was a family gathering in the north of France with a house load of kids, so you can erase any picture of us racing through fields of sunflowers in a convertible in the south of France whilst quaffing wine from the myriad of vineyards enveloping us…like so: It wasn't too shabby though. We had fields of lush wheat….stretched out in front of us like a beautiful cashmere blanket, stunning sunsets, great company (even the kids) and French food! Hello pain au chocolate, brie cheese, baguettes and French wine! Oui! Oui! And then we had Paris.....the Arc de Triomphe (circled by the Tour de France no less), the Eiffel Tower and Moulin Rouge. Ok…so it was a pretty glam holiday for us current China-dwellers. Given the circumstances, off the bat, it was obviously going to be hard not to compare. Talking countries not kids (of course)!! (Well yes, when it comes to kids given mine screeched sporadically, waking the entire homestead every night, I'd rather not go there!) But China - France? Asia versus Europe! Where to even begin! Some might say don't even bother, but for the fun of it, let's compare notes. Of course landing in France, it's hard not to notice the traffic. Mostly, for its insignificance, if anything. Instead of a game of 'eye spy' on the journey from Paris to Normandy to keep the small person amused, it was more fun to play 'Spot the Difference.' The roads were ever so orderly and everyone appeared to be managing (mostly) to stick to their own lanes…..ok so those hairy driver's zipping around the Arc de Triomphe in the middle of Paris could've probably resembled a scene straight out of downtown Xi'an, but for the most part, drivers in France were, shall we say, 'refined.' (Just don't mention the British/Aussie tourists doing circles with a dodgy sat-nav.) Mind you, as refined as they were, we did find ourselves on more than one occasion held up for more than a few minutes by road blockages in the countryside, courtesy of protests! One such protest came in the shape of traffic being ground to a halt for at least an hour....at the end of the road block, about 20 huge rigs stationed strategically across roadways, a few measly banners stating their cause and a bunch of seemingly oblivious blokes drinking beer on the roundabout! Just one police car insight. Apparently this is not unusual in France? Beeping was down to a (pleasantly) dull roar…. incredibly soothing to my now pulverized ears…the peaceful buzz of cars cruising the streets in relatively smooth fashion, a sweet symphony. Oddly, it made me a little on the nervous side though. Maybe I'm getting used to weaving through the cars in a laissez faire fashion! Speaking of stopping, um, since when did fuel stops get so fancy? Major hubs for serious coffee-refuelling at your disposal! Ok - so clearly by the very title of this blog, you'll gather I'm no coffee connoisseur, so I admit I was quite taken with the machines dispensing Kit Kat flavoured coffees. Anyone? I also came to the careful conclusion (whilst stuffing my face) in Europe just how much I miss 'normal' food. At least what I consider to be normal, anyway - as a good old Aussie bbq-loving, fish 'n' chip chewing, cheese-hoovering, seafood slurping, chocoholic. Don't get me wrong, I don't mind Chinese food, in fact give me a good plate of Dim Sum day or night but when you don't grow up with it, it's quite hard to make pig's lung and chicken feet your daily staple. No disrespect… Actually, on the food note, can I just say I was impressed with the 'service' in Paris…. people often comment that the French are notorious for being a little on the arrogant side, but for us, the fact they even spoke to us was rather refreshing. In a lot of European countries, being a waiter is a profession. I love that the middle-aged men who've obviously been on the gig for years take such pride in their service…it's almost an art, yes even in the most casual of cafes…..And language is no barrier! Mind you, I've just had a thought about the young girl who served us on one occasion in a Paris cafe and had no qualms about walking out mid service to have a smoke break at the front door. Let's call that a generation gap, shall we? The architecture is obviously different at first glance, and second.….in the country it's all cobblestones, castles and corn fields and in Paris, well what's not to love about all those dainty iron clad railings decorating the window sills …brightly colored flowers flowing freely, stunning gold statues, the magnificent Sacre-Coeur and of course the always awe-inspiring Eiffel Tower. Um did somebody say Pagoda? Incidentally, today I found myself taking a few pics of the rather impressive statues in my backyard…not quite The Colonne de Juillet but pretty slick nonetheless! Admittedly, there is also quite a lot of European influence throughout Asia. From Shanghai to Macau, even just up the road here in Xi'an, a little bit of European charm is visible. Let's talk about the language… French…. "Ooh La La!" I haven't spoken it since high school but let me reiterate, compared with 'trying to' speak Chinese, it is a dream!! Yes! I probably needed to know more than 'bonjour' and 'merci beaucoup,' but the freedom one feels when you don't have to 'sing' a language in four different pitches was highly liberating. And, signs, glorious signs that were decidedly decipherable proudly displayed before me! Put it this way, if I was in a taxi or stranded somewhere in the middle of the city, my body wouldn't kick into 'fight or flight' mode. (Any expat in Xi'an will tell you the thought of their phone battery dying whilst 'out' is their worst nightmare!) Let me just say this foreign country felt so much less foreign. In fact, when we first arrived in northern France, we almost forgot we were in a foreign country, much of it felt very English…which of course it's not really. But that's when it hits you, how different Asia really is to the West…. Without putting you off your dinner, I've got to say I reveled in the level of hygiene. Now that just sounds plain weird doesn't it! But not having to remember to use hand sanitiser Every. Single. Time we ate or Every. Single. Time we'd been out of the hotel was oh so lovely. I even (heaven forbid) laid eyes on a squat toilet, that looked relatively inviting, well as much as any toilet can. I will spare you the details, but if you've been to China you'll know what I mean. Multiculturalism….the diversity was powerful and mesmerizing to watch. Everywhere, a myriad of nationalities…all blending into the vibrant Parisian scene - vividly different skin types, hair colors and dress codes on display. Sure, in China there are other cultures in the mix, but it's mostly us few western expats meandering on the sidelines. Last but not least I can't go past that superb blue, ever so high, sky and those delicate fluffy white 'marshmallow' clouds. A rare scene in Xi'an, even on a sunny day. Fresh air! And inhale! Ahh the Eiffel Tower and all its glory…a spot for excited tourists from all over the globe to congregate and admire… and there was no mistaking the Chinese tourist. The lady decked out from head to toe in Louis Vuitton teetering on her heels waiting for her little girl to emerge from the bushes, right next to the Eiffel Tower… Ahem! And at the airport check in, ma and pa sitting on their portable seats plucked from their backpacks, while they waited for their son to deliver their passports. Not actually a bad idea, really, given the chaotic, disorganized Charles de Gaulle Airport we were unexpectedly confronted with at ten o'clock at night. There's a lot to be said for the efficiency of Asian airports! After lining up with the masses for what seemed like an eternity (two hours to be precise), we were greeted warmly with the words, 'over-sold,' 'over-booked' and 'bumped off!' Ok, so we weren't quite bumped off...but with a 12 hour long haul flight back to China in front of us it was a little mortifying to hear they had booked all three of us in separate seats. Yep, my four year old was seated on her own. Now, not that I'm saying I wouldn't love a long flight seated On. My. Own. Hell yes - movies, wine, uninterrupted sleep….but let's be real, a 4 year old can't sit on her own for 12 hours. Can she?! Apparently sitting you 'randomly' apart from each other or worse being told you're out, when you check in, is what happens…not bad if you're single and can handle an extension of your holiday with a night in a chic French hotel. Of course in all my single travels it's never happened to me. How about you? Airlines regularly overbook the number of passengers flying for the number of seats to park their behind on, because they can almost always guarantee there will be "no shows" and a lot of them. They do the same in hotels too. (Shhhh) Yep, they do the maths and then bump the ones they think they can get away with…. if you're a platinum member, a regular customer, with a family, or have booked through the hotel itself, you've got more chance of staying put (just quietly). The fact we were on a connecting flight was in our favour but the staff at check in (as helpful as they were) couldn't fix it until we got to the gate to board. So boarding pass in hand, we hightailed it, all the while I was frantically preparing my self righteous speech about how we couldn't possibly fly in such circumstances or how perhaps they might need to upgrade us to first class (surely there would be spare beds seats up the pointy end?!); or how I was quite happy for the flight attendants to have Small Person overnight if they didn't mind her being spread across their laps rolling fitfully backwards and forwards in her sleep for the entire journey! Turns out, my panic was overrated…. an incredibly calm man at check in efficiently changed our seats without so much as a "Madam, I'm sorry to say but…." and on board we went….smooth sailing. The in-flight food more than made up for it….yep, I'll admit it out loud, I am pretty tired of the oil soaked noodles and dodgy bits of chicken floating in dried up rice on most Asian flights I get. Air France your Brie cheese had me at hello. That said, coming back to 'my reality' in Xi'an, I'm instantly reminded of the intriguing and vibrantly-coloured patchwork quilt of commotion, on my doorstep! Yes, whilst, many days it has me in a state of eye rolling disbelief, it really is quite a captivating, intriguing and comical amusing place. The streets are never uniform, the people never orderly, the country is awash with uniqueness on every level and that… is NEVER dull. To borrow a quote from Forrest Gump, China's "like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get!" Chicken's feet and all! For now, this is China. … [Read more...]
Repatriation is Not a Dirty Word!
It’s a Completely Different Ball Game: Tips to play it well! "Expat!" In my current circles, it’s a word tossed around between friends like a ball between team players in a sports game. Everyone has days where they hold on to the ball a little tighter, clinging on to all that it represents; especially when it's often the only way to survive in a foreign country. Other times we toss it away, eager to pass the ball on to someone else - sick of all that it means and brings…the distance from loved ones, the never-ending goodbyes, the isolation, the challenges. Expatriating is never easy, to start with at least….it takes time to rack up points on the board and feel like a winner in a new country. At the risk of overdoing the ball analogy, its like playing for a new team after years of bonding with another. Scary as hell, but once you bond with your new team, its high fives all ‘round…you play the game and you play it well! But what about repatriating - it's not a word that we bandy about with the same energy as we do expat! In fact amongst expats it's often a dirty word! After all, it means the ride is over…..the adventure is finished. We are homeward bound. Or as the actual definition says: “The process of returning a person to their place of origin or citizenship.” You are forever changed. Hell, I’m gonna keep using this ball analogy, I like it! Repatriating is a whole different ball game! I like how Naomi Hattaway sums it up in her post "I am a Triangle." For some expats entrapped in all that is expat life, it’s the unthinkable… no one wants to talk about it. For others, whose time is up, it’s the unavoidable and for many it’s the inevitable and more often than not the desirable….but whatever lures you back home, it usually comes with the age-old question, when is the right time to pack up and call it a day? Many of the expats I know (including myself) have been bouncing the expat ball for more than a few good years now……but in their heart of hearts they know it’s time to think about hanging up their boots and returning home. Once you get over the mental hurdle, it starts to come up in conversations more regularly, and is discussed more intently. Usually there are three big questions: Where to live? Where to work? And (if you have children) where to send them to school? Expats are expats for many reasons….amongst the most obvious, the desire for a change of pace, the excitement of life in a new country, the thrill of an adventure…….but it’s not all about the hair-raising shenanigans, it's also for the lifestyle it more often than not affords….and the career prospects it brings. Most of us are living in another country because our job or our partner’s job has taken us there; while it's often in a strange country, where your native language isn't spoken, the culture is poles apart from your own and you can't get a block of Cadbury's chocolate to save yourself (oh wait! That's just me!) there are also many benefits that come with the expat title. Whether it’s free or cheaper housing, paid school tuition, a driver, regular trips back home, health insurance and/or a higher salary than you were previously afforded, lower tax rates or no tax at all; it generally brings advantages you wouldn't normally get at home. Expats are often in countries less developed than their own which means everyday life is cheaper, whether it's eating out at local hole in the wall, the low cost of public transport, getting hired help at a fraction of the price it would cost back home, or being able to afford regular exotic holidays. And for some living the expat lifestyle, things like car payments, utility bills and groceries are taken out of the equation. It’s easy to see why expats become addicted to their new life overseas. Once the expat bug bites, it bites hard and giving it up, understandably no easy task. For many expats who moved away for two years and that two became ten; one child became three….returning home with excess baggage means your lifestyle expenses have probably changed quite dramatically, compared to life before moving away. This makes heading home particularly daunting when you know the cost of living is incomparable. Housing in your home country may have doubled since you left….the cost of food skyrocketed, school fees risen with the rest of the world and babysitters these days, well they’re not happy with a packet of chips and a good movie! Then there are the job opportunities. Many expats are in the countries they are in, for the sheer job availability factor. Back home, these kind of jobs just don’t exist and if they do, the pond is small. There’s also the psychological affect. When you go overseas as an expat everything is brand spanking new and different - while it’s challenging at times, it’s ok because you expect it to be. Your brain allows you to process these idiosyncrasies as all part of the "cultural" experience. When you go home, you expect things to be the same as when you left, but often they’re not and there's no putting it down to being in an exotic/bizzare location. Psychologists say, "The home expats return to can feel as strange as the foreign land they once travelled to!" While a lot of effort is put into expatriating, global companies are being asked to think about both ends of the deal these days or risk losing valuable employees all too soon after they’ve arrived home. So how do you repatriate and how do you do it well? 1) Be Emotionally Prepared There's no denying, it can be emotionally tough, moving, well anywhere! Repatriating, it's important to acknowledge, things WILL have changed, not just for you and your family but also the family and friends you're returning to. There's a good chance, your family and friends will treat you as the same person who left, and you’ll probably find yourself acting the same way. Those old patterns will take a while to change once you’re back home, and sometimes it may feel like nothing has really changed at all. Did you ever leave? This article in Reach to Teach Recruiting explains how important it is to Let It Go. Naturally, the bonds you've created with expat friends are strong - when you’re living in another country it can feel like you connect with an instant community of likeminded friends, but make sure you also keep in touch with old friends and family. With today’s technology…you have the ability to stay connected! It's easier to know what friends are up to, what’s happening in their lives and of course keep in regular touch with loved ones. Prepare your children mentally for the return home. Adjusting to move back home is a bigger challenge for children who have grown up in a different country. Make sure that they are feeling somewhat settled before putting them into another new school. Remember you can't recreate your old life, this is a new chapter. Keep travelling, even in your home country. Try to see things you've seen in an effort to quell that yearn for adventure. 2) Be Financially Prepared There are a few key things to think about when it comes to finances when you repatriate. You may have been a non-resident in your home country, for taxation purposes, so you'll need to re-register with the relevant taxation body. Make sure you renegotiate your contract if you are heading back home with the same company; if you're taking on a new job, make sure your salary is sufficient to cover the cost of living. Some points to think about: interest-free loans or loans at favorable rates to buy a house. Check local banks/building societies in your home town offering competitive fixed home rates like Newcastle Permanent. Ask about car or other living expenses; assistance for re-housing; food allowance; the cost covered or partially covered for children’s education; compensation for the loss of your spouse’s income. Be aware that, if you haven't kept a bank account open in your home country while you've been living overseas you may not be entitled to any credit (including a mortgage) on your return. Some repatriation experts recommend (if you are in a position to do so) buying a place back home while you’re still living away and going there for vacations and holiday periods. “This way, you develop your relationships within the community.” And when you go there to live permanently, it will feel more like home, where you belong,” says Gwen Sawchuck. Financial advisors say transferring money back home can be an option to manage savings, investments and mortgage commitments. Check out Mint Mocha Musings partner Clearfx. 3) Be Practically Primed Repatriating as a resident is naturally different in each country. Make sure you've organized a shipping company if you have things to take home; get quotes just as you did when you left. Check on pet relocation/quarantine guidelines, schooling for your children (do you need to have deposits down in advance?) research where to live, the best suburbs and what you can realistically afford. Investigate the jobs market…how easy/hard will it be to find work. Organise for your mail to be forwarded and tie up loose ends with your current place of abode, including closing bank accounts, phone lines and housing leases. Check you're covered for medical care and dental care. Do make sure all of your documents like educational certificates, birth certificates, licenses, medical certificates, marriage certificates etc are not in the shipping and easily accessible when you return home. You'll need them. (Trust me!) The truth is….reality bites. Repatriation can be harder than leaving…and just as it does when you become an expat….it takes time to adjust. The game's not over….it's just a new season! "Cherish those memories and experiences, but don’t judge the present against them. There are so many more adventures to find, so many more journeys to take—but you will never see them if you’re always turning your face toward the past." … [Read more...]
Made in China: Not for Sale in China – Why Global Brands are Missing from China’s Shelves
I have a four year old who likes toys. Ok, let's face it, is there are four year old on this planet who doesn't like a toy or three? (Cue Frozen theme song: "Let it gooooo!" Obviously followed by tormented parents hastily burying Frozen DVD in the rubbish while child sleeps.) Me? I don't have to worry about that so much….you see, the thing is, living in Xi'an - the toy department is a little on the lean side. Olaf and his mates are still a bit of an enigma for kids 'round these parts. In fact, quite a few of the latest and greatest children's toys are few and far between in much of China. There's this (easily) misguided belief that because (almost) everything is 'made in China,' it's got to be here in abundance, and no less, cheap as chips! Sadly, I'm here to bring you the bad news: that's not really the case. (Hence my recent outsourcing via US Global Mail for some Peppa Pig paraphernalia!) China might be famous as the 'factory to the world,' pumping out a myriad of goods, all bearing the 'Made in China' stamp, but (and yes I'm truly sorry to burst your bubble) that's where the love affair with homemade products seemingly ends. I'm sure things are a little different in a first tier city, so before you start saying, "Oh she's lost her marbles, I've seen Elsa and Anna kicking up a storm in downtown Shanghai!" let it be said, second tier cities are slightly less endowed in the toy department. Yes, I admit I saw Elsa last week hanging out at a local toy shop up the road. It was the first time she's graced Xi'an because for the most part, it's still good old Barbie, roller blades and China's famous "cartoon goat" all the way… And at the risk of sending you into a complete frazzle, if you're after anything more elaborate than say soap and toothpaste in the toiletries department, you'll be sorely disappointed. (OK, I may be exaggerating slightly, but trust me when I say, only very slightly!) If, like I was, you've had little to do with real China, you're probably wondering why on earth this is the case? Surely, you ponder, Chinese consumers would be open to new products, more choice, a wider variety of goods lining their shelves? Particularly if they're made right here on home soil? Right?! Wrong! If you watch the news or read the paper, it's been hard to miss the rapid rate in which China has progressed from an isolated economy into a global powerhouse. With that, we've witnessed how quickly global brands (at least those who've managed to penetrate the market) like Starbucks, McDonalds, Apple and of course the plethora of designer labels have been accepted and adopted enthusiastically by locals. In fact, China has for all intents and purposes become renowned as a country bearing the world's most avid luxury shoppers. Now that's quite a title! Hence, you can imagine my surprise, dismay, utter disappointment, when I arrived in downtown Xi'an only to discover there are quite a few gaps on the shelves when it comes to toiletries, cosmetics, toys, household items, food etc….etc. Even a desperate browse online for Christmas shopping at Amazon China was met with a distinctly rationed supply of goods. (FYI, Amazon from any other country can't deliver to China.) (Of course, being the savvy shopper that I am, we did manage to snaffle a few items from Santa, including a giant paddling pool. (It came without a pump and deflated after day one, but that's a story for another day!)) So, more than a little perplexed, I delved a little deeper, explored a little further and…'huzzah'… it all became a little clearer. For a start, ask any business-savvy person 'in the know' and they'll tell you trading in China is no straightforward task. A Forbes opinion piece last year on America's trade policy quoted: "Any corporation that wants to sell in China must not only manufacture there but bring its best technology. Then it is expected to export it back to the United States." As far as China importing American products, it's often a no go zone. This pattern has been similar for most western countries. They call it Chinese protectionism and it's very clear, China is protective about what it 'imports' into the country. So despite the fact that almost every thing you can buy is made here on Chinese soil, they are made for the 'western' market, not China…. and more often than not, never the twain shall meet. From a business point of view, China’s complex legislative and political system is difficult to navigate, especially for a brand that does not have a local partner. Many global brands have been trying for decades to capitalize on the world’s most populous nation (wouldn't you be trying to engage 1.3 billion newly cashed up consumers), but for the majority, progress has been slow. In second tier cities, it's made even harder by a lack of demand for particular products and the fact that big companies need to cultivate relationships with local government. Even if conglomerates can forge ties with China and are given the green light, multinational firms trying to woo Chinese consumers need to think outside the box or risk failing miserably. Chinese may have a penchant for luxury goods, but what's perceived as luxury is not necessarily the same as what the rest of the world covets. In China, luxury is not necessarily about price point. A large part of China is still relatively poor and for them a night out at Pizza Hut rather than a fancy 5-Star hotel can be far more appealing. A flimsy social safety net means for tens of millions of Chinese, the priority is saving for their own education, healthcare and retirement. And while consumer spending has been rising along with China's prosperity, it's done so almost in spite of an economic model geared almost exclusively toward production rather than domestic consumption. The place renowned for delivering low-cost goods to Western consumers doesn't always do the same for its own people. Apple laptops are made at a Chinese factory that grants a rebate on China's 17 per cent value added tax, as long as those computers are exported and sold overseas. Before that same machine can be sold domestically, it is first sent to Hong Kong, (an SAR of China) then returned to the mainland with a 20 per cent import tariff. It also explains why Chinese pour over the border into Hong Kong in their droves….like bees to honey - quite simply, it's cheaper! As I write this though, it seems the tide might be turning. It's been revealed from this month, China will cut import taxes on a range of overseas goods by an average of 50 per cent in an effort to boost global brands in China and also give a lift to domestic consumption in the world’s second biggest economy. (I may yet be singing "Let it Go" with the rest of the world.) Price point aside, understanding the consumer is also key and a quote I read in The Economist recently, pretty well summed it up: "In China, trying to sell Cheese is like trying to sell stinky tofu in Switzerland." So, after overcoming my initial shock…. it now makes perfect sense that I struggle to get my favorite Cadbury block of chocolate at the supermarket. Seeking approval from China is tough, persuading a nation of non-chocolate lovers even tougher! 30 years ago most Chinese had never tasted chocolate. For them it's far from a common snack (yes, feel free to call chocolate a snack!) and even today is usually reserved by the Chinese for gift giving (probably to salivating foreigners like myself!) In China, if you're lucky enough to be accepted into the retail market, it's about getting the formula right. This is a country that cares a lot about history, heritage and culture. Those companies that connect to the Chinese heritage are much more likely to prosper. Take designer brand Louis Vuitton. All LV stores carry artwork relating to the local area; that's a move that resonates well in the Chinese market. It seems Colonal Sanders is not the only one that's nailed this recipe for success. The seven secret spices may have been tweaked for the Chinese palate and it's working. In the US, KFC is dwarfed by McDonalds; in China KFC has 3300 restaurants and counting - more than three times McDonalds. On the menu there are fewer buckets of chicken wings and tasty chips, with more congee and rice porridge tempting consumers with what they know and love. Crest brand of toothpaste has also become hugely popular in China. With flavors like lemon, tea, salt and honey, I can't imagine why! But as they say (and I'm sure Crest wholeheartedly agrees) "there's no accounting for taste!" Those big brands who've dumped their existing products on the Chinese with little thought have struggled for a slice of the market. Chinese people are also known for purchasing something they can use (showcase) in public. That flash BMW you see cruising the streets or that Gucci handbag swung over his or her shoulder (Chinese men are also partial to a designer purse) are more sought after than things for the household. Home Depot, an American DIY chain struggled to crack the China market for years after trying to persuade middle class Chinese to decorate their home. Ironically, Ikea is coming to Xi'an this year….(cue fist pumps) whether it is successful remains to be seen, but so far in China they are claiming victory, with 20 plus stores. The key to their success? Localizing for the Chinese market. Check out this video! (I know where to go for a snooze.) So, by now, you're probably getting the idea, that what's made in China is not necessarily found in China, and if it is... and it's affordable, it's usually because big brands got the formula right. Of course this equation can create a slight dilemma for us expats homesick for a local fix. Plunged into a frenzy of dim sum, endless rows of toothpaste and Hello Kitty fever, what's a Waigouren (foreigner) to do? A) Suck it up B) Stock up on trips back home.... Thankfully there is a third option, with foreign businesses starting to capitalize on the growing expat market. Jinkou is just one online company that gives you instant access to those familiar brands you know and love. Hello Cheetos and Kraft Macaroni Cheese! Companies are also spotting opportunities to help out expats with private mail boxes. U.S Global Mail is one such company who recently came to me with their offer of a private mail box. You can purchase things online in the US that you can't purchase in person or online in China and have them sent to your own specific US address (not a PO Box) and then shipped right to your doorstep. With a few kids' birthdays coming up, I decided Hello Kitty had had her day and to test them out with an order for some much desired Peppa Pig items! Within a few days my box of goodies was in my own virtual private mail box. The labels were scanned so I could see what it was and I could choose the method of shipping and whether or not I wanted the parcel opened and repackaged or sent with other items I'd ordered. Not only can you use them to purchase those much craved for home staples, you can have your ordinary every day bills sent to your virtual private mailbox. We all know those pesky bank statements and forms that quickly pile up and if you move around a lot, it's easy to miss important documents, sent to old addresses. If everything is forwarded to Global Mail, they'll simply scan the item and put them in the virtual mail box for you to look at. You can then decide if you want them to open it for a closer look, send it on to you or simply dump it in the trash. For some expats it's a lifeline, allowing them to get vital medication shipped in from home. This blog post by DC Rainmaker in Paris, helps explain the lowdown. I'm incredibly happy to report, despite the often difficulties faced in getting mail in China, Peppa Pig's classroom made it right to my door! So next time you ask me if I'm shopping up a storm in China, you'll know the rather grim answer (did I mention the hotelier's quite happy about the money I'm saving?)! (Admittedly I'm still getting a retail fix every now and then at H & M and Zara, so all is not lost.) Oh and if you announce you're visiting China, you won't be surprised when I request a block or two of Cadbury's peppermint chocolate, will you! This is China. … [Read more...]
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