When you go overseas as an “expat” invariably a lot of the ‘organising’ is done for you, under what’s known as an ‘expat package’. And while they are not seen to be quite as prestigious as they once were in the days of old, they do offer a level of financial comfort and help with acclimitisation. Whilst they clearly differ greatly, from job to job, country to country, person to person, usually there are a number of perks that go hand in hand with living in a foreign country, whether it’s paid international schooling, regular paid trips back to your hometown, rental accommodation and food paid for (or at least partly reinmbursed), a car, a driver, or both etc. And often many of the countries today that require expats to work in them are still developing, which means for the most part, your lifestyle is going to be a lot cheaper than the one back home. Many companies have a rating system for the countries they send foreigners into, depending on the level of hardship they represent. The harder it’s deemed to live there, the more perks you get to make up for it, not to mention 25 per cent salary weighting, in many cases. Xi’an in north west China is dubbed 'a city of extreme hardship' by many corporate companies, but sadly it wasn’t deemed so for us, with many more hotels in far more remote places in China, laying claim that title. Still, I’m not complaining, after all we did get to live in a hotel, and as much as that also came with its drawbacks, many of you will have heard me attest, yes that did mean I could dial 0 for room service, at any time, day or night! Coming back the other way, though, requires a very different 'state of mind'. (If you have to look at You Tube when it comes to operating the vacuum, let’s just say, you’re not alone!) Still, in the eyes of many (including your employer’s) it’s your home town right? Or at least your home country, so on the surface, you should be pleased as punch and find everything fairly straightforward. Apart from a few acknowledgements, aka “we know this must be quite tough for you, settling back in” it’s just a case of quietly slipping back in and getting on with it, isn’t it? For us, yes, a lot of it is remarkably foolproof (except those dang vacuums). With English as the native language it makes for a pretty good start. Just how far can you go wrong? Being understood wherever you set foot is a major bonus. But don’t be fooled, setting up a new life is not without its challenges. First of all there’s that thing called ‘reverse culture shock’, which for all intents and purposes is a genuine thing! You may have read about our first few weeks Down Under in my previous post: Aliens Down Under. "What do you mean, you keep mistaking the rumbles of the washing machine for fireworks outside?! This isn’t China!" A friend says. But to me, the latter seems far more plausible. On a practical note, moving back the 'other way' can also set you back a small fortune, so be prepared! A lot of the time, companies will foot the bill for specific things like flights home, temporary accommodation, storage of belongings etc, but they will often expect you to pay first and reimburse you, (sometimes much) later. Savings or a high limit Credit Card that works everywhere is a pre-requisite in a move like this. Even if you’re in line for a company credit card, it’s not always immediate. So, when that call comes to move back home — as much as you’re either whooping for joy or (like us) quietly scared out of your wits - there are some crucial things you’ll need to get onto, pronto! Without sending you into a pre-move meltdown (which is also highly acceptable), here’s the list to get you into gear! If anything, the big move will surely test your admin skills, not to mention your ability to multi-task especially when it’s all done in the middle of packing, unpacking, plane trips, hellos, goodbyes, old jobs, new jobs, old schools, new schools! REMOVALISTS Sometimes the company you’re moving home with will help you organise this, but often they won’t or perhaps you are moving of your own accord, so the buck stops with you. You’ll need to find professional removalists asap and have a set date for it all to unfold. Shipping companies want inventories of everything you’re sending and if you’re coming from a country like China, for example, there is a list a mile long of things that can’t leave the country with you (i.e. no prescription medication, cleaning products or food). Some things can be a little on the absurd side, ahh hello ‘no Christmas decorations’ so don’t be afraid to challenge them. You will usually be required to get three quotes for your company, which means three different moving companies coming to assess your treasures well before the big day! Once the removal company is chosen, they will want an itemised list and possibly the value of everything you intend to ship back. Can you even remember? How about what’s in storage? A handy tip, is to keep anything like this on file for future moves. It can take two or three days to pack your belongings, so be prepared. And if you’re doing it yourself, we all know this is no mean feat. Even if you’re not physically packing your belongings in boxes, it’s a major effort sorting through a few years of taking shelter in one home. What seems like a small job can take weeks, so my advice - start early! Shipping can take anywhere from several weeks to a few months so whatever you do, don’t forget to leave enough clothes, medications, kid’s toys, books, as well as important documents like birth certificates, marriage certificates, evidence of shipping, moving companies, bank statements, pay slips etc. (I cannot stress the latter enough)! In saying this, you also need to check how many kilos you’re allowed on the flight home and if you’re up for paying for excess baggage, or if this is something your company will foot the bill for. If you need to get rid of things, start early, advertising amongst friends or on relevant online sights. And it may seem obvious but if you're somewhere that hasn't involved travel (highly unlikely) make sure your passport is up to date with six months validity. Check your previous contracts and make sure there are no clauses about repaying things you’ve received in the expat package, i.e. kids school fees in advance. If, you’re not moving back into your old home or are temporarily renting, make sure you’ve got storage set up for your belongings when the shipping does arrive. PETS If you bought a pet overseas who has now become a bonafide member of the family, there’s no way you’re leaving your pampered pooch or kitty cat behind, right? But first things first, you should really check the rules in your home country. In Australia, they are tough! (Who can forget Johnny Depp’s dog!) There was no way we were getting a pet overseas no matter how hard Small Person pleaded (and mummy hoped) because it’s a long, long wait in quarantine and an expensive exercise. Also check with the company repatriating you as the return cost may be part of your package. (Side note: Back home, currently scouting pet shops!) SELLING/BUYING A HOUSE Perhaps you’ve got an investment property or a house that’s no longer suitable for your now larger family? You’ll need to look into selling this if it’s something you need to do to get a more suitable property. Set the wheels in motion as soon as you can. It’s not a quick task. Start with a call to your real estate agent back home. If you do plan to buy a house, at any time of life, this is a pretty big life decision. You’ll need to make sure your finances are in order. (Which means having a bank account in Australia or the country you’re going to) make sure they’re willing to give you a home loan, research the legalities in that city, like capital gains tax, stamp duty, real estate fees, solicitor fees etc. If you are searching from overseas or simply don’t have the time to look once you’re back, a buyer’s agent is often a great solution. House hunting every Saturday is a big commitment! FYI - a lot of banks won’t talk to you until you are on the ground. TRANSPORT If you’ve been away for any length of time, it’s more than likely you no longer own a car… and if you’re like us, perhaps haven’t paid much attention to cars, models etc in many years. You’ll also need to research what’s out there and what’s affordable for you and your new life. With a new package that’s not an expat package, going home can be significantly more expensive. “Ah hello Nicole, that’s right, no mini convertible for you!” Oh and will you and your spouse both need cars? Can one of you take public transport? Don’t forget with buying a car, comes the added expenses of registration, insurance, tags for the tolls, finance, petrol etc. Thankfully as we found out, most dealerships will sort out the registration for you. Remember, you will need insurance before your car leaves the lot. And if public transport is on your radar, check the current status. For example in Sydney they no longer take cash on busses and trains, it’s all about the Opal card. Oh and is your driver’s license current? You may be required to drive the minute you’re home, and if you haven’t for sometime, there’s every chance you’ve neglected to look at your licence. Can you even find it? Dig it out and make sure it’s current or start organising how to renew it. HEALTH INSURANCE You’ve probably been covered under some pretty hefty health insurance as an expat… there’s every likelihood this won’t be the case back home and you’ll need to take out your own or potentially see what your company now offers and what that covers. Don’t forget, if you’ve been away for a significant period, things change in the local health systems. You may need to renew things like your local health card - as I found out, if you’ve been away overseas for more than six years, the equivalent in Australia, known as a Medicare card needs to be applied for, all over again! You may also need certain vaccinations for your new country, particularly if your children are starting a new school which expects them to be up to date with the country’s specific immunisations. If you can do this in your current country, it will save one more thing to do when you arrive. If you’re in a second tier city like China though, it's clearly not possible, so check out which doctors will do it as soon as you arrive home. ACCOMMODATION Next thing is to make sure you’ve got appropriate accommodation when you return home. If it’s not to your old house or staying with family…can you afford a hotel/serviced apartment until you find more permanent lodgings? Depending on the city you’re going to be residing in, these may not be cheap. Try Air B n B’s…which can be a little cheaper in the short term. Plus make sure you are set up with most every day essentials you’re likely to need. If you’ve got children, mum's desperate for them they’ll probably need to to start school asap! This can prove a catch 22 (and a major headache) with a lot of schools wanting you to be in the right ‘catchment zone’ before they “let you in”. Make sure you read up on this and know your options. One idea is to rent in the area you want your child to go to school in, but then you may also have the added pressure of buying property in that particular zone. Don’t be afraid to keep your kids home for a few weeks until things are clearer in your mind. If you need to rent somewhere, and the city you’re returning to is not your old city, do some research on which areas will suit you and your family. Is it close to work? Will there be a commute required? What are the schools like? What’s around the area? And, realistically are the suburbs you like affordable? If you’ve been living overseas in a city environment, you may find it difficult slipping back into suburban life. Perhaps you need to choose suburbs more reflective of your current situation, to ease yourself back into your new life and make assimilation that little bit easier? COMMUNICATION Once you come out of hibernation, you may very well need to get yourself a new phone if you’ve been on a company phone. Or like me, had a phone courtesy of my husband’s company. You'll also need a new plan or at the very least a SIM card. There are plenty of new options out there now so do your research. Most plans these days, do include the cost of the phone. It’s a good idea to check that where ever you are setting up home temporarily also has the internet, if this is also something that’s crucial to your daily life. NO FIXED ADDRESS As with anything like the above, most places (rather inconveniently) want an address from you, which can be a complete 'p in the a' when you’re in a hotel for a few weeks and trying to set everything up or in temporary accommodation. Can you use someone else’s address, a friend or someone in the family? A lot of these “setting up” process also require pay slips, evidence of utility bills etc which can be frustrating, when you’re madly trying to explain you’ve just come out of Mozambique or similar. Yes, really! BANK ACCOUNTS During your time abroad, there’s a good chance you may also have let your bank accounts lapse. Check that you’ve got at least one account for your new pay to go into (often the company will set this up but it may not be straight away) and a credit card that can be used in your home country. If you do want to send your money back home before you get there.. we've always used OFX and they are a long time partner of Mint Mocha Musings. Click here if you'd like more information. NEW JOB If you or your husband is starting a brand new job, this is more than likely going to take up a lot of the spouse’s time trying to settle in and process everything. You’ll probably be used to it - having already made the big move abroad (most likely) for work and returning home is no different. Expect the unexpected and to feel unsettled….knowing this too shall pass. Rome wasn’t built in a day. If you or your partner that’s not employed is also looking for a new job, it can be a double dose of chaos. Try to manage it as best you can and remove those pre-conceived expectations of wanting it all organised NOW. OLD STOMPING GROUND You’re also (hopefully) likely to have a lot of family/old friends wanting to catch up and see how you are and there’s absolutely no doubt, if you’re like me, you’ll be wanting to touch base with everyone, immediately. This is where you need to hold your horses. Take it slowly and remember it’s simply not possible to see everyone, at. the.same.time! Just stepping out of your comfort zone into a new country, even if it is home, can be overwhelming and fraught with new experiences, good and bad. It’s no longer your ‘new normal’ and settling in is a process which hopefully your friends will understand when you need to say 'no thanks' until the time is right. After all, don’t they say moving countries, starting a new job, selling a house and buying a new home (each on their own merits) are in the list of the top most stressful life events? And, remember to breathe…. This is repatriation. You’ve got this! **If you missed my post on making the decision to repatriate….check it out here! … [Read more...]
Aliens Down Under? Three Weeks In…..This is Australia
What is it about Australians and muesli bars? You might remember at the writers conference I went to in Guangzhou, a lovely Tassie lady saved my bacon, digging into her rations to supply my rumbling stomach with a muesli bar? Well, it happened again the other day, here in Sydney. This time at the city dry cleaners. Picking up my clothes, she disappeared out the back, unexpectedly returning with a big smile and a muesli bar in each hand for Small Person and I! Maybe I just look hungry! But I highly doubt that… I think it’s just the friendly, giving nature of the good ole' Aussie… (and perhaps their love of the humble muesli bar)! ;) My American friend made me giggle when I sent her a pic of Small Person in her new school uniform. She joked, "It's so bloody jolly" and that pretty much sums up the whole country! She’s right… being back here after 6.5 years away, Australians are a pretty chirpy bunch (especially when Chinese aren’t known for cracking a smile at the best of times). To be honest though, as much as part of me is revelling in all the little chats with random strangers on every corner, the constant torrent of the English language everywhere you turn, for me, is almost an assault on the senses. For the best part of seven years, I've been able to ignore most signs, television, radio and for that matter, people! So much white noise! 8-O Sometimes I feel like I may need to crawl into a box to escape the overwhelming flow of information. The prawns, the barbies, the Aussie soaps and reality TV shows, the shark sightings, the heat waves….the mozzies, the bushfires, the politics…. all that “Aussie-ness!” sure takes a bit of getting used to again. There’s no denying, those first few days we were a little shell-shocked, which from experience, I'm pretty sure will only intensify as the novelty of starting a new life again, becomes reality. At the moment we’re still riding in the whirlpool that is leaving China and abruptly landing Down Under; Everything feels so familiar but at the same time, completely foreign! That feeling, when you open the daily newspaper and nothing really looks familiar. I remember it distinctly in both Hong Kong and China, and in the latter, never thought I’d be interested in reading their paper. Two years in, it was my daily staple. But starting again is also amusing and a little bit of fun. (Perhaps it's that expat addiction of doing something out of your comfort zone?) Small Person is settling in remarkably well despite bouts of apprehension and nerves. Her first words off the plane…. “I can breathe again.” And then later… “Mum we don’t have to worry about cars on the footpath here do we!” Then, "Why, oh why do we have to wait so long at the crossing?" At the school gate we are definitely the new kids on the block. It's a bit scary, it's isolating but we are used to this. I keep chanting the mantra, "We've got this!" Of course, the fact that at school drop off, everyone looks like mum, is highly amusing to Small Person! I’m not sure if this is a good thing or slightly frightening…. and the fact that everyone around her can speak English is bound to be a bonus and let’s not forget the constant chatter of kids TV on tap (we’ll just overlook the small fact that she couldn’t work out how to use the TV remote)! And then...there's the beach, after school. Enough said. I like to tease her when we get in the car and say "Where's your mask!!" For a split second her eyes widen. Then she laughs, most likely with relief. She still prefers rice over pizza for dinner though and I can't see that changing anytime soon for my self described 'Honky girl!' And China, it seems, is never far from us......Down Under, there's no escaping Xi'an! For me, so far, apart from the obvious (hello family - a hop, skip and jump away ....and of course, an abundance of muesli bars) driving has got to be one of the highlights! I feel like a kid who just got her license! The independence, the freedom….the music… and those blue skies! This school run couldn't be more different. (Although I did find myself listening to Chinese radio.) To be honest, driving is one of the things I was most nervous about. Driving my girl to school that first morning in my “No Birds” hire car, from the bustling city to an unknown suburb, anxiety levels were surely peaking…but 'hello Google Maps' and 'hello, yes it really is like riding a bike'. *Note to expats coming home, you really don’t forget how to drive! (I must say, I’m speaking for myself here….the hotelier may have a different experience…don’t forget the hand break darling! ;) ...Oh and don’t forget to pay for the petrol!) :mrgreen: Must admit the temptation to drive through the lights that take so damn long to change is strong. There’s alot to be said for the beast that is China’s constant force of moving traffic. What you do forget is HOW much there is to organise to set up a new life! Don’t worry, I’ve got a post coming with the 'to do' list soon. Let’s just say, logistically, going overseas as an expat is a hell of a lot easier than repatriating. (Friends, if you’ve been calling, I’ll be up for air soon!!!) And if you’ve tried to call me - sorry I forgot you can actually have voice mail here! And what do you mean Bank Lady, "What colour bank card do I want?" There's a choice? And Pay Pass? What’s that! Opal ticket? Never heard of it. Do I need an E-Tag? Oh and a new medicare card! Is this small number actually my phone number? And never mind that the hotelier actually thought the buzzer we were given at a pub restaurant was to pay your credit card. :roll: Looking at social media is almost tiring because it is just SO instant. No VPN required and tedious spinning just to open Facebook! Going to the shops, bank, hairdresser, doctors, even buying a car....is ridiculously easy when you don’t have to keep opening your translation app to search for the right word. Yep, folks, this is repatriation. It’s a little like putting on an old, comfy pair of pants but they don’t quite fit. I guess it’s because ultimately it’s not a case of slotting back into your old life (and pants) because mostly you don’t really want to (Ok, I really would like to slot back into my old pants). It’s not because you hated your old life (quite the opposite in fact) but because things change. Things move on, obviously. And you change. You’ve seen, done and experienced things you never imagined you’d do. You’ve met people from every part of the planet… you’ve struggled and you’ve thrived. Your coping mechanisms have been stretched as far as the elastic will go. We left Sydney in 2010 as relative newlyweds, DINKS if you like. Double Income, No kids. Life was pretty sweet. Now we’re coming up to eight years of marriage and one kid in the bag who’s never known Australia as home. Sydney looks a lot different to us all. (And, yes, a lot more expensive!) Feeling very much like expats in a new city, we’ll continue exploring our old stomping ground with a renewed enthusiasm, fresh eyes and fresh air. There will no doubt be hiccups along the way, but as long as there are strangers offering museli bars, we’ll be right, mate. This is Australia. … [Read more...]
Dear China, Thanks for the Memories!
Dear China, I feel like a bit of a traitor just taking off and leaving you like that but rest assured, while I've reached out to greener (fresher) pastures, you will not be forgotten. I want to thank you for taking me into your arms two and a half years ago when I was wide eyed and let’s face it, more than a little petrified as I stood in the rain, peering up at your famous 1300 year old Pagoda, opposite our new home (the hotel), trying to understand its significance. Your world looked anything but familiar to me, and that was (surprisingly) despite having lived in the oriental harbour city of Hong Kong for four years. I smiled through clenched teeth and fought back tears as I tried to stay calm for my excited but nervous three and a half year old, who was yet to comprehend why her old world had been replaced by this new, raw version of the Orient. Back then it felt like English was rarely spoken, even in the confines of the hotel, a conversation was, at best, challenging. I remember finding that one single foreigner working there and clinging to his words like bees to honey. Outside of the hotel bubble, those early months felt like I was treading water, desperately trying to stay afloat. Routine was everything, yet we had none. A trip to two “international” schools set up for those few expats in town and wealthy Chinese had me anxious when I learned five full days in class was the norm for my Small Person, one of the few Westerners on the block. A trip to my local hairdresser for an attempt at colouring my blonde hair had me in tears. Not because I’m vain (ok, maybe a little) but because it was then I realised I was completely alone and had no clue how to communicate my thoughts to a group of people looking at me like I really was an alien. Our first visa run had me in shock as we were shoved this way and that, poked and prodded in full view of a very inquisitive audience. A bizarre visit to the local doctor who asked me for advice on which drugs I needed and then wanted a photo together! It was all indicative of everything we attempted to do in a bid to set up a life in China, in those early days. Back then, I didn’t realise that while you boast the world’s second biggest economy and churn out much of the world’s goods not to mention the world’s most travellers ….. essentially much of you is still developing, still learning and still adapting to life in the 21st Century. I soon found out that you are a nation full of contradictions. Xi’an may have been your capital for 13 dynasties, but her lack of exposure to the modern world meant for the most part, you were still learning much of what the Western world had already conquered. I learned that despite how far you’ve come, authoritarian rule is still your preferred mode of governing. Censorship is par for the course. A quick Google soon confirmed that, as did watching my television go to black regularly, simply because it was something your government wanted to shield us from. Controls over things that involve people’s safety and livelihoods though seem minimal. Smoking is still in force like it’s the 1970’s… when it comes to the roads, rules are few and far between and riding motorbikes without a helmet, with phone and at least three or four passengers (including children) is completely normal. Pollution during those winter months is literally off the radar, at least north of the Yangtze River. When you walk outside and it smells and tastes like an incinerator and pollution levels are '20 times' the healthy limit, you have no choice but to shrug, put your mask on and get on with it -- as much as your head tells you, it’s a ludicrous way to live (and some locals will tell you to "go for a run, it'll strengthen your lungs")! I’ve learned to strategically avoid those small wet patches of spit that litter the ground; and not to bat an eyelid when I see small (and big people) relieving themselves, mid squat in the middle of a busy footpath. Fast forward almost three years and like a toddler emerging into childhood, I can appreciate you’re changing and developing at a rapid pace, perhaps unparalleled in world history. English doesn’t seem as hard to come by, both spoken and written… but perhaps that’s just because I’ve added a little bit of my own Chinese into the mix to help with our communication. Those things that seemed incredibly hard are still incredibly hard, but perhaps our indifference or constant exposure to it, has made it all the more bearable. They are now just "China moments." A city of nine million that had very few restaurants and bars outside those local watering holes overflowing with spicy noodles and bbq skewers now has an abundance of new hotspots of every flavour on every corner. There is an element of the West weaving its way into society, rightly or wrongly and the nouveau riche are dividing classes like never before. Despite the hairdresser telling me I’ve got "farmers hands" one day and am a little “alien” like the next, as he rifles through my shopping bags to see "what she buys", we have become firm friends. That day I cried, clearly still etched firmly in his mind he tells me, as he bids Small Person and I farewell with bear hugs and promises to visit Australia. Those hairy car rides to school no longer have me in a state of shock…. Frank (the driver) and I have settled into a comfortable daily routine. Every morning, come rain, hail, shine (or snow) he waits downstairs, standing at the car door, ready to greet us with a smiley “Zao Shang Hao” (Good Morning), helps to buckle Small Person in as she squirms and fidgets, and off we roar into the morning chaos... Despite never having spoken a word of English bar “Ok” - he quite possibly knows more about us and vice versa than either party would care to. We know he likes to put on the morning talkback shows in Chinese while he fiddles with his beads all the way to school, weaving in and out of tuk tuks, two wheelers, and overcrowded busses, beeping the horn with gusto. We know that after dropping us off, he’ll usually sneak in a cigarette at the bus stop until he sees me coming back and then does a six point turn in the middle of a crowded school street - traffic banks up, while I wait awkwardly at the side of the road, pretending it’s all completely normal. And it is. We have reached an 'unspoken understanding' and perhaps an appreciation of each other. That's evident when my girl draws him a goodbye picture and we give him some new beads. Then there’s the security guards at the school gate that greet me with a big hello and goodbye every day, proudly in their few English words… and once in an unexpected downpour, run out to the car with me holding an umbrella over my head…yet still won't let me inside the school gates unless my I.D is hanging around my neck. My last week in China was no different to the entire two and a half years… unpredictable and challenging! If nothing else China, you are consistent in that nothing is ever straightforward! A book interview with an American-English teacher in the north of the city; a lunch with school mums from China, America and Brazil at a kitsch Chinese restaurant, overflowing with statues, local red wine, a warm drink made from dates, Peking Duck and spicy noodles. All followed by a twenty minute wait in zero temperatures (outside the school gate) and then a regular school pick up that unexpectedly becomes the end of the school term, closing abruptly due to extreme pollution levels! This also unexpectedly makes it my Small Person’s last day, ever, so I'm forever grateful her teacher has the foresight to run out at the eleventh hour and get her a goodbye cake! Then a farewell night out that ended at a “Gentleman’s Club” which isn’t as risqué as you might think! Curious to see what it was all about…we enter the shiny, new establishment (one of many that has sprung up in our local neighbourhood) all in the name of checking out the "competition!" Chandeliers, leather sofas and karaoke (China’s other love). In the spirit of a 'proper' Chinese night out, we find ourselves agreeing to hit up the microphone with a few tunes. A dozen beers are delivered and then... as an added bonus, we're treated to a line up of suitable men of all 'shapes and sizes' to choose from (including the token 'foreigner' who hails from Kazakstan)!! All for ‘company’ we're told…or as we soon find out in between giggles, a university student to sit amongst our group, make strained conversation, drink our beer, smoke cigarettes and sing the odd Chinese pop song! China, you will forever have me bamboozled by your extremes - from the overwhelming poverty that envelopes you, to the ever-increasing number of Rolls Royces cruising the streets; to the intense effort given to academic education yet lack of life guidance; to the seemingly selfish public acts yet incredible acts of kindness, to the strict censorship but overly flexible road rules; the human trafficking and domestic violence but feeling of peace and safety on the streets, to the emphasis on Guanxi (networking) and family but the inability to lose face…and those layers upon layers of ‘bureaucracy!’ China, both your complex and simple personality traits have made it possible for me to love you, yet loathe you - all in the same breath. But just as you’re changing, I hope that I am too. Still fresh out of your grip, it’s too soon to tell how you've changed me. Only time will tell. One thing’s for sure, you’ve taught me to be more open and tolerant and definitely not to sweat the small stuff. I’ve learned that trying to understand cultural differences, nuances and a country’s history is not always easy but it is the key to understanding a nation and every thread that intertwines to makes up the fabric of your society is to be appreciated. Your spirit and strength in overcoming a recent history of oppression and poverty is admirable. As different as China can at times seem from the world in which we know, and as much as that old mantra, ‘survival of the fittest’ still rings true for many of you….there is no mistaking, you have a nation of people only too willing to show an outsider kindness. And that for me, has counted for a lot. (If only someone had told us what's in the tap water sooner!) ;) It's not goodbye, it's see you later! This is China …. and you’ve stolen a little piece of my heart. … [Read more...]
When Parallel Worlds Collide: A Party of Writers in China
“Stride with purpose” I chanted silently to myself, as I marched through the entrance of Sun Yat-sen University in downtown Guangzhou, China - mercifully hoping it would disguise my pre-conference jitters. I’d slid into China’s third largest city largely unscathed the night before, that is, all bar a 'war of words' with the taxi driver on the way from the airport! I’m unashamedly a little smug, because the 'feud' was in Mandarin. Er hello! Yes, that’s me, speaking in the native tongue about fares, meters and foreigners! (To be fair we were almost equal in the language stakes, given in Guangzhou they generally speak Cantonese, not Mandarin!) Naturally, he’d taken one look at me and put me in that foreign box of naivety about China and the scheming ways of some taxi drivers. With my heavy (for a weekend to be spent in lecture halls) suitcase lugged into the boot, he’d driven about twenty metres up the highway before slowing down and trying to frantically shove a scrap piece of paper through the metal caging at me. I could barely make out the numbers scribbled down in the dark, but could tell it was a high price to pay, in China at least. It was then I noticed the metre was off…not a light to be seen. A little panicked, I looked around in earnest …cars were tooting, weaving erratically around us. It was decidedly going to be all too hard to get out and heave that suitcase up the freeway, in darkness. Puffed out chest, I attempted to say it was too much and simply “not gonna happen mister!” (or words to that effect.) My outer bravado hopefully hiding my inner fear as I calculated the level of risk. Unfamiliar city, unfamiliar destination, random taxi driver! But, I reminded myself, this is China! He started driving, his sheepish laughter putting me at ease a little, all the while he was still trying to negotiate the price on that scrap piece of paper… Eventually he realised he was getting nowhere and this ‘Waiguoren’ wasn’t going to fall for that old chestnut, again! “Can I smoke,” he asked? “Definitely not,” I replied, indignantly! (As he offered me a cigarette, with a wink!) An hour and 20 minutes later (it wasn’t quite the ten minute drive to the university I had anticipated via Google Maps), we'd pretty much driven from one side of the city to the other! It’s suffice to say, we’d become firm friends. I learned he’d never been out of Guangzhou. “What’s Australia like he pressed? Is it like Hong Kong? What about Xi’an?” He’d taken to calling me “Ma fan” the equivalent of “trouble”….which I’ll take as a friendly gesture in this instance….considering we were utterly lost in China’s back streets and I was directing him in bungled Chinese via Google Maps. It was the start of a weekend that both surprised and amused me on many levels; my first and hopefully not my last writers' conference or “Con-Fest” as it’s been dubbed. A mix between a conference and a festival, it certainly was. As I entered the lecture hall - greeted with the universal fluorescent auditorium lighting, flooding rows of flimsy pull-down chairs and tabletops, sloping down to a giant projector screen - I was instantly taken back to the early nineties and those heady university days drifting in and out of intensive lectures (probably hungover to boot!). Surprisingly I was early (and not hungover), so I scanned the empty seats for a suitable place for a ‘newbie’ to park herself….. I watched as people jostled in to the room, many looking jovial and familiar with one another, others almost as wide eyed as me… That awkward reality of finding yourself in a room full of people, yet alone, is a confronting place to be. Thankfully, I was saved from floundering for too long in my own trepidation, when a lovely lady sat next to me and introduced herself. She was from Tasmania, ahh a good ol' Aussie lass. And then another from Indonesia. I immediately felt at ease, until my stomach started rumbling conspicuously (a result of having fled my hotel at the crack of dawn). As all good Aussie mums do, she immediately pulled out an emergency muesli bar from her back pack! A muesli bar, in China - I was chuffed. The conference theme was aptly named 'ideas and realities' and what followed over the next two days was a whirlwind of ideas that came in the shape of lectures, panels, books and mesmerising discussions against a backdrop of ‘made in China’ reality moments. A refreshing flurry of Aussie accents filled the air, along with those from India, Malaysia, Thailand, England and beyond. Seeing the above image flash up on the screen with two books I'm currently (attempting to) read had me feeling like less of an imposter. Immersing myself in all things writing, it felt like I'd been transported into my own version of being a ‘kid in a candy store’. Break time and navigating the squat toilets brought me back to my own reality with a thud. This is still China. Dinner in the university hotel restaurant with chopsticks, cheap red wine and chicken feet had me chuckling, as those not from this part of the world eyed up the goods with a mix of intrigue and apprehension. The atmosphere was buzzing and I had my first foray into the ‘spoken word’ in the literary world. Outside a television news report, I’d been unaware that writing involved so much air time! One by one, courageous writers stood up, microphone in hand, proudly reading excerpts from their novels, works of non-fiction and poems to the cheers of an enthusiastic crowd. Day Two and we each lost ourselves in discussions of publishers, agents, authors, editors, translations and the reality of being a writer in Asia Pacific today. Rain bucketing down, conference over -- to congratulate ourselves on a successful event, a few of us decided to brave the elements and head back to the hotel of one of my new-found friends before the closing dinner. The girls spied the ubiquitous ‘Chinese foot massage’ sign and it was on…although it was almost off, as my dear Aussie friend tried to pay, there was that undeniable raucous chatter in Chinese, when something is not quite right. I managed to work out that they thought her money was fake. A quick inspection of the notes and their plastic texture a surefire giveaway, the 900 RMB she had withdrawn from the ATM, to her dismay, was all bogus! It was my first encounter with counterfeit money in China but finally the notion of cashiers tediously checking every bill through a machine makes sense. Money problem solved, we found ourselves seated in plush massage chairs lined up in a row. Masseuses in teeny pink hot pants limbering up to tend to our tootsies. Hot tea all round and a rather ‘bloody’ Chinese movie on the tele…we were given a foot massage with the works…shoulders, legs, exfoliation you name it! It’s fair to say the “experience” accelerated the bonding process! Feet tended to, we headed out for the final hurrah…off the crowded Saturday night subway, we found ourselves trapped in a maze of glaringly gaudy Chinese shops, going around and around in circles, desperately searching for an exit that kept leading us straight back to Walmart! It was mildly funny, for awhile. Finally we came across fellow writers and made our escape to a local restaurant specialising in all things unique to Yunnan Province! Living in China, I’ve learned to expect the unexpected, so when the restaurant staff began making their way from table to table serenading every body with shots of liquor, it was only mildly absurd! Our bellies full of Chinese fare and a little bit of Dutch Courage, it was time for the ‘spoken word’ in a local Guangzhou watering hole. Hailing taxis is never an easy job for a foreigner in China at the best of times, let alone peak hour in the rain on a Saturday night but somehow we managed to pile into several taxis mid street and made our way to our destination - a dark car park. There we were led down a back alleyway flanked with graffiti stained walls. This was not the China I know. Climbing a dark, concrete stairwell, we found ourselves in a nondescript room, scattered with little other than a few chairs, a stage and a makeshift bar, featuring half a dozen bottles of spirits and a cocktail menu that reminded me of something from the seventies. Down the corridor a jazz bar and a marijuana room were in full swing! White Russian in hand, the spoken word began. I have always assumed writers are shy, retiring types… hiding behind their keyboards, but i’m clearly mistaken… With passion, intense emotions and quite a bit of humour, poems were performed on stage with surprising energy and gusto! Excerpts from clever, witty and daring authors were revealed under the spotlight. I found myself nodding, laughing and quietly stunned. To be honest, the idea of standing on stage reading my own words, scares the bejesus out of me. This was no high school talent show (although they didn’t exactly fill me with confidence either)! I’m not sure I’ve ever been in a room filled with a more diverse group of people, yet at the same time, so many obviously like-minded people. Thoroughly educated, entertained and exhilarated, I knew I’d entered a brave new world filled with ideas and realities…..and this time, it wasn’t China. … [Read more...]
The Ultimate Guide to Getting Hot & Steamy with China’s Favourite Food: Hot Pot
"All the girls love hot pot!" he said, grinning at me like a Cheshire cat! The girls around him nodded enthusiastically in agreement. I was a little surprised - at the time, still rather new to Xi'an - because we were talking about 'favourite' foods (as I've since discovered is often the prime topic of conversation amongst my Chinese friends). Instantly those western temptations like chocolate, cheese and pizza flashed across my mind in all their gooey, scrumptious glory. But this is China and in Xi'an, noodles reign supreme; hot on its heels is Huo Guo - known as Hot Pot to you and me! (Which just for the record, also incorporates those stringy, slippery suckers!) "What about you?" they pressed! "Do you love hot pot?" I had to think about it for a few seconds...not wanting them to lose 'face,' I knew I had to answer carefully. "Yeh!" I said (as convincingly as possible). "Aside from my all-time-favourite, Dim Sum, Hot Pot is probably up there as one of the more palatable Chinese dishes, I've tasted." (They all let out a relieved sigh!) But to be honest, for me, hot pot is more about the fun! Think bubbling pots of broth in the centre of your table where you choose your own ingredients to boil yourself! I've even had my own mini hot pot beside me at the table. (Just don't put your phone down on said hot plate, hiding under the tablecloth)! I've fished out my fair share of tasty (and often unrecognisable) morsels from these sizzling cauldrons, many so spicy they feel like they could actually blow your head off. (Or as you'll see below, clear those sinuses!) Thankfully many large hot pots can be split in two, so you can opt for a milder version on one side! (And of course the broth of choice changes from north to south, east to west!) But perhaps my most memorable occasions have been at the renowned HaiDiLao. Here, it's not just a journey for the taste buds, it's an experience you surely will not forget! HaiDiLao is famed for its service as well as it's food in China and in my neighbourhood the restaurant takes up around six floors. It's always busy! At the bottom near the entrance to the lift, (to my surprise) is a makeshift nail/massage salon! Yep, it's that popular, the queues are often lengthy, so why not have a manicure for free while you wait! There's also a kid's playroom... even better, the staff take it upon themselves to look after your little ones while you dine four floors up! They even give the little critters gifts! (See above - musical gifts swinging from necks!) Upstairs, prepare to get steamy. (Who needs a facial, no wonder the girls love it!) Wear your hair tied back ladies..and if you forget a hair tie, don't worry HaiDiLao has them on standby, not to mention aprons and phone covers!! For a foreigner like me, ordering is a little like "Eeny, meeny, miny moe"...but at least there are pictures. My local haunt uses iPads, so it's a case of choose and swipe! So, you might get Tofu instead of Potato, but it's all fun and games. The crucial thing is to choose the right flavour for your broth especially if you're up north where most are swirling with hot chilli! There's also some fantastic entertainment just in case you forget where you are! ;) Don't worry though, the guys over at Spoonhunt, who've launched an App that helps you find the best restaurants in China with English menus, have nailed it with this special guide for Mint Mocha Musings readers. Hot Pot eat your heart out! When things cool down, especially up north, where we've already had a good dolloping of snow, Hot pot starts to look like a great stomach warming option. Unless you’re an experienced hot pot connoisseur, you may be intimidated by the wide variety of broths, ingredients, styles, and shapes hot pot can come in. This guide will help you through the types and strategies to maximize your hot pot experience. Chongqing Spicy Hot Pot (重庆麻辣火锅) Specialty: Spiciness Broth: Sichuan peppers and Meat Stock Popular Ingredients: Beef, Lamb, Tofu, Green Vegetables, Sprouts, Noodles This is the most popular form of hot pot in China. The specialty comes from the Sichuan peppers in the broth that will completely numb your mouth. Chongqing hot pot comes in a few different forms, such as Yuanyang (鸳鸯) hot pot and Qiaotou (桥头) hot pot, where the spicy broth and the mild broth for cooking the food are separated. You can enjoy both spicy and plain broths which is perfect for a large group with different preferences. It’s a good way to clear the sinuses and make you sweat during the winter! One of the most popular Chinese chain restaurants that features the Chongqing hot pot is HaiDiLao 海底捞which you can find by searching for “HaiDiLao” on the Spoonhunt App. Beijing Style Lamb Hot Pot (北京羊肉涮锅) Specialty: Lamb Broth: Bone Stock Popular Ingredients: Lamb, Frozen Tofu, Chinese Cabbage, Mushrooms, Glass Noodles, Sesame Sauce Also known as Mongolian style, this hot pot originates from the Qing Dynasty, focusing mostly on eating lamb. The broth is not spicy, so it’s perfect for those who can’t handle the Sichuan peppers. The lamb is sliced so thin that when you take it out of the boiling broth, it just melts in your mouth. The lamb cooks really quickly and comes with some peanut or sesame dipping sauce for extra flavor. A popular Chinese chain restaurant Little Sheep Hot Pot 小肥羊 specializes in this style and can be found in virtually every city in China. You can search “Little Sheep” on the Spoonhunt App. Cantonese Congee Hot Pot (广东粥火锅) Specialty: Thick Soup and Seafood Broth: Congee (rice porridge) and Meat Stock Popular Ingredients: Fish, Prawn, Pork, Pan-fried Noodles, Tofu, Fried Dough Sticks (you tiao) Congee is rice porridge that Cantonese people love because of the believed health benefits it has on digestion, so they mixed it together with soup broth to get boiling congee hot pot. Typically, seafood is cooked in congee hot pot since Southern China has a long stretch of coast and fresh seafood, but like the other hot pots, you can eat meat and vegetables as well. The broth is thickened but not as thick as you might expect it to be given that Congee is a major ingredient. The rice is actually cooked until broken down so that it won’t stick to the bottom of the pot and burn. However, this special broth is used to bring out the freshness of its ingredients and is kept hot throughout the meal. Macau Bean Scoop Hot Pot (澳门豆捞) Specialty: Meatballs Broth: Chicken Stock Popular Ingredients: Beef, Pork and Fish Meatballs, Glass Noodles, Dumplings This hot pot actually comes from Hong Kong. The specialty of this hot pot comes from the quality of its ingredients and meatballs made out of beef, fish and shrimp that you can cook. The Chinese name sounds a lot like “everyone scoops,” implying that everyone eating this hot pot will scoop up luck and fortune. Plus, the meatballs are easier to scoop out of the pot then pick out with chopsticks. Hong Kong style hot pot comes with a variety of ingredients you can mix together to create your own dipping sauce for when the meatballs are ready to eat. You can search the Spoonhunt app for “Doulao” to find the nearest Macau Bean Scoop restaurant. Yunnan Flavor Hot Pot (云南滇味火锅) Specialty: Vegetarian (Mushrooms) Broth: Mushroom and vegetable stock Popular Ingredients: All kind of Mushrooms, Tofu, Sprouts, Rice Noodles, Chinese Cabbage Heads up vegetarians, this hot pot is for you! Yunnan flavor hot pot focuses on the use of fresh vegetables both as a base and dipping ingredients. It’s a very special and seasonal type of hot pot based on the freshness of the vegetables. In Kunming there is an entire street dedicated to serving this hot pot, and each place uses their own selection of exotic mushrooms. The broth is made from a variety of wild or planted mushrooms and utilizes a large number of mushrooms main ingredients to cook. When dealing with wild mushrooms, let your waiter/waitress take care of the cooking as they are experts in making they are thoroughly cooked and no longer toxic. You will never know how many different kinds of mushrooms there are until you try this hot pot. Spoonhunt's Top Tips for Eating Hot Pot Pre-meal If you drink a little bit of fruit juice or a yogurt drink before a spicy hot pot, your stomach will manage a little bit better. Remove any items of clothing that could get in the way, and if you have long hair make sure it won’t get into the pot by accident. Ensure that you have the proper utensils including clean chopsticks, ladles, napkins, plates, bowls and aprons if necessary. Make sure your phones aren’t on the table near the pot or your plates, as hot pot soup can easily splash onto it. During the Meal Make sure you have a steady boil before you put anything in the broth, otherwise you might undercook your meat. Meatballs will float when they’re done. While waiting for the broth to boil, make your dipping sauces. It takes a while to boil, so use that time to come up with a good dipping sauce. Make sure to mix it thoroughly. Be aware of what your chopsticks touch. If they just touched raw meat, dunk them in boiling broth. Don’t touch raw meat and then your cooked meat right after! Cook the seafood and meats first before the vegetables because leafy vegetables will soak up more of the great oils and broth flavor. The tofu will be molten hot when it first comes out, so don’t rush into eating it. Don’t splash. This isn’t the community pool; the boiling broth can easily burn you. Be careful. If you’re eating Chongqing Hot Pot, DON’T EAT THE PEPPERCORNS! They will instantly numb your mouth and you’ll have a bad time. Pretty good tips thanks to Spoonhunt! Yeh, especially about those peppercorns! So if you're travelling to China, you know you need to do yourself a favour and make sure you get hot and sweaty with the ultimate Chinese food experience! This is Hot Pot! This is China! **Oh and if you live in China (or even if you don't) and want to know the best ingredients to buy to cook up your own hot pot at home, look no further: Meats Sliced Beef, Lamb and Pork (肥牛／肥羊／五花肉) The most basic but still incredibly delicious meat you can order for any of the hot pots we've mentioned. You can order beef, chicken, pork or lamb, but beef and lamb are must tries. It’s typically sliced paper thin so that it will cook quicker while still having enough surface area to absorb the delicious oils in the broth. When the meat is ready to eat, it will literally melt in your mouth. Meatballs (肉丸) Meat for hot pot can also come in meatball form. They are quite easy to cook as they only take 4–5 minutes and will float back to the surface when they are ready to be eaten. Fried Pork (小酥肉) It may seem counterintuitive to put something already cooked, let alone fried, into the hot pot to cook, but you can put fried pork, called 小酥肉, into the hot pot to get a little bit more flavor from the broth, especially spicy broth. Since the meat is already cooked, you only need to stick it into the broth for a few seconds. Any longer and it will get soggy. Seafood Sliced Fish Fillet (鱼片) Whether it’s catfish (鲶鱼), mullet (鲻形目), snakehead fish (黑鱼), cod (鳕鱼) or any other type of fish that might be on the menu, sliced fish fillets are a classic seafood addition to any hot pot. The pieces of fish are sliced then to make cooking them in the boiling broth much easier. Fish tend to be featured more in the southern China-styled hot pots, like in Macau, Hong Kong and Guangdong, but can be ordered at any hot pot restaurant. Squid (鱿鱼) Squid for hot pot comes in two different forms: body and tentacle. Fresh squid has a spongey texture to it and is either left as the body or separated into tentacles. Squid is good at soaking up the delicious flavors of the hot pot broth, so it’s important to pick the right kind of broth to increase flavor. The body of the squid is usually the softer meat while the tentacles are chewy. Squid is naturally salty, and it’s important to find the right dipping sauce to complement the taste and texture. Minced Shrimp Slide (虾滑) Shrimp slide is a special kind of seafood ball you can put in hot pot. The shrimp is minced very fine and mixed with water and flour to get a thick gooey paste. It’s usually served in a scoop instrument with spoon to make your own fish balls from it. All you have to do is slide balls of the shrimp from the scoop into the hot pot using the tool, hence the name. Depending on the restaurant, they can also come premade or in a cake paste to make your own. When the balls are ready, they will float and be very soft. Vegetables Lotus Root (藕片) The first time I saw lotus root in China, I seriously thought it was pig snout. But it’s not. It’s a root vegetable, and quite delicious I might add. It’s a good substitute for potato. It’s very starchy and crisp when raw, but when cooked in the boiling hot pot, it becomes a little bit softer and flavorful. It absorbs the flavors from the hot pot very well but will sink to the bottom, so you’ll have to fish it out. Depending on how crispy or soft you want your lotus root, it can take longer to cook than most vegetables. Sprouts (豆芽) Sprouts are an easy, cheap and light vegetable addition to any hot pot. They usually come in large quantities (a pile) on a plate that might seem intimidating at first, until you remember how light they are. The arrive at your table cool and crisp, but when you shovel them into the boiling broth, they will go limp and be ready to eat fairly quickly. Baby Cabbage (娃娃菜) We all know the huge Chinese cabbages that are oddly worshipped. I’ve even seen the huge jade cabbage (art I guess). This is the smaller version of that. Baby cabbage is hearty leafy green vegetable that is worth giving a shot. Unlike spinach, baby cabbage has thicker stems, so it takes a few minutes longer to cook. But they still absorb lots of soup and spice from the broth with their large leaves, so they are best left for the end of the hot pot. When they are cooked, they come out a little bit sweet. Mushrooms Oyster (Ping Gu) Mushrooms (平菇) The Ping Gu mushroom is a very common mushroom found in a lot of Asian cuisines for soups and sauces. It is called the Oyster Mushroom because the cap fans out like the shellfish it’s named after. Chinese people love adding Ping Gu mushrooms to their hot pot because of its taste and health benefits. While the taste is mild, it’s fairly sweet and serves as a good replacement for meat. It is also linked to lowering cholesterol, blood sugar and blood pressure. Golden Needle Mushrooms (金针菇) Golden Needle Mushrooms, know as enoki in Japanese, are a must have in any hot pot. These long, thing white mushrooms are absolutely delicious, especially in the chili soup of Chongqing Spicy Hot Pot. They have a crisp texture, even when soaked. You know they are ready to eat when they have wilted from the soup, which usually only takes 30 seconds to a minute. They are high in antioxidants and are believed to be linked to lowering your risk of cancer. Black Wood Ear Mushroom (黑木耳) While not very popular in Western Cuisines, the Black Wood Ear Mushroom thrives in Chinese dishes due to it’s medicinal qualities. It’s use dates all the way back to the Tang Dynasty (618 to 907). This mushroom has more of a soft, jelly-like consistency and is thought to cure colds and fevers. While not edible raw, you can cook it in the soup for a just a few minutes. Black Wood Ear Mushrooms don’t have much taste themselves, but they soak in all the flavors of the soup, so it’s important to pick a flavoursome broth for hot pot. Tofu Soft Tofu (嫩豆腐) The most common type of tofu that everyone probably knows about is Soft Tofu. It is undrained and unpressed so it contains the highest mositure content, which is what makes it so soft. Even blunt chopsticks will slice right through it. The bland tofu absorbs some of flavor in hot pot, so the soup and sauces are extremely important. Since tofu is already cooked, you just warm it up in the hot pot, making it gooey and delicious. Be careful, it will be molten hot. Frozen Tofu (冻豆腐) When soft tofu gets frozen, the moisture crystalizes and the tofu turns yellow-ish. While it is just frozen soft tofu, it has a completely different taste and texture. Since the moisture is frozen out, it reabsorbs a lot of water from the hot pot broth. Unlike the soft and gooey fresh tofu, frozen tofu gets the hot pot flavors embedded within its spaces and has a much more bouncey feel to it. Fried Tofu Puffs (油豆腐) These deep fried tofu puffs are made by cutting tofu into squares and deep frying it. If the water gets squeezed out before getting fried, they will come out light and airy and float in hot pot. If the tofu is frozen before being deep fried, it will be heavier in the middle and sink in hot pot. Either way, they’re deliciously crispy on the outside and the broth will simply add flavor. Noodles Cellophane Noodles (粉丝) These see-thru noodles go by many names in English: glass noodles, crystal noodles, Chinese vermicelli, and bean thread noodles. Regardless the name, these clear noodles are a great add to any hot pot. They are typically quite thin, and when they are pulled out of the soup, they become slippery and spongey. When placed in clear soup, they look like they basically disappear. They are made with mungbeans and water, so they don’t have a lot of taste themselves, but they absorb a lot of flavors from the sauce and soup. Potato Noodles (土豆粉) Potato Noodles are used in a lot of different Chinese noodle dishes, so odds are you’ve had them before. But you’ve probably never seen them uncooked before. When they come to the table, they are brittle and stiff and get softened by the boiling soup. Fully cooked, they are very soft, chewy, whiter and thicker than the glass noodles. They are known for their savory natural taste and aren’t as greasy as other noodles. They’re a little bit heavier than some of the other noodles, but they are an old school classic (going back to the Ming Dynasty). Broad Noodles (宽粉) These wide noodles are actually made from sweet potato. Their width varies based on region and chef, but all of them get slippery and oily when cooked in hot pot broth (due to the special type of sweet potato flour used). They are naturally sweet but are great at retaining the flavor of the broth and sauce they are dipped in. Sesame, soy and peanut sauces are the best for this type of noodle, as they complement the natural sweet taste. Happy Hot Potting! … [Read more...]
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