When you're living the 'enviable' expat life, it is for the most part, just that. But looming amongst the five star shindigs, endless shopping extravaganzas and cultural enlightenment is the little unavoidable fact: you never quite know when it's all going to end; when the phone's going to ring with the next 'tour of duty'. Last week, we got one of those calls… We'd been half-expecting it (if there is such a thing as half?) let's just say it wasn't a complete shock to the system. I didn't run around the house yelling "We've been punked!" but to be honest, my heart did a triple somersault with a twist and leapt right out of my chest. We've had many conversations about the next step. When we'll be ready, where we think we'd like to go, where we think we'll get to go. (For the record, the planets rarely align when it comes to the answers.) This wasn't a 'do or die' battle, we could say no and (hopefully) live to tell the tale, but when it's all said and done, we like to think of ourselves as brave soldiers always up for a new adventure. (I'm sure soldiers don't call their missions 'adventures') but you get the picture? "Bring. It. On!" we chanted with all the nervous enthusiasm we could possibly muster. Click here to continue over at Expat Focus>> to find out just how this proposed move to China's furnace went down! Let's just say, we learned a lot! … [Read more...]
A high price to pay…
There was a chill in the air at our house last week. 40 floors up, we were enjoying a lazy Sunday afternoon - while two towers along, a woman murdered her partner, before plunging to her death from the 77th floor. I know. It's high. She landed in the swimming pool… Dragged out by a lifeguard, you can bet, it was a day on the job he'll never forget. The lifeguards, that for 364 days of the year, barely get their feathers ruffled by anything more taxing than how many towels to give you. It was a warm spring day, not far from the pool, BBQ areas were in full swing as residents soaked up the sun, oblivious to the drama that prevailed….that is until the word got out. The driveway was bumper to bumper with ambulances, fire engines and police cars and the sky above was swarming with media choppers and paparazzi. (And no, despite the media frenzy going on outside our door, we may as well have been on the moon, we were still none the wiser.) This week though, if there was a water cooler in the apartment block, it's a sure bet, residents would've been huddled around it, fishing for clues. Clues as to how it came to this. How a wealthy couple in the prime of their lives with young children could end up splashed across the front page of newspapers, another gruesome statistic. … [Read more...]
Luxury Brands in Hong Kong – A Design of the Times…
If you're partial to the odd spot of retail therapy like myself (I tell my husband it's hereditary) you'll appreciate my unbridled enthusiasm when I learned I'd be living in downtown Hong Kong, plunged like a pig in mud into the world's greatest shopping mecca! Oh yeh! Hong Kong is the bomb when it comes to shopping. To quote a Chinese website (China Highlights), "Hong Kong shopping is not only the act of buying things, but a form of recreation, a way of life." I hear you sister! This heaving metropolis can lay claim to having the highest density of luxury brands in its CBD anywhere in the world. Yep! pure, unadulterated luxury. For those who's budget permits, there's a Rolex store on every corner…. and sandwiched (albeit elegantly) amongst the strapping skyscrapers and some of Hong Kong's oldest lane ways overflowing with cheap and cheerful chintz, are glossy store fronts flashing names like Dior, Prada, Hermes, and Louis Vuitton (or simply 'LV' if you're up with the designer lingo). Much to my husband's relief, I'm not. (But off the record, let's just say I was…these days Hong Kong is not only the place to haggle for your fake LV handbag, ladies, it's the place to buy the genuine thang!) The city boasts seven Louis Vuitton stores - home to the french fashion house, Paris, has just six. For the most part though, when I'm not fantasizing about draping myself in diamonds from Cartier, these dazzling stores don't elicit too much attention from yours truly. Ok. Admittedly they get the odd sideways glance, a peek through the (oh so shiny you can see your own reflection in the) glass - but rarely do I let the blinkers come off. It's a dangerous game! (Last time I checked my Tom Ford sunglasses were in two pieces after catching the fashion-forward eye of my toddler who much preferred them to her Dora sunnies.) Occasionally it's awfully tempting to allow my high heeled tootsies (perfectly manicured for the occasion of course) to cross the threshold (past the security guard) into that world of beautifully branded bling….. but in stark reality when I have crossed the line into haute couture heaven, I've more than likely been wearing flat shoes, jeans and a t-shirt and...well, it's a bit like trying to venture into a nightclub when you're past that 'appropriate' age. (Guilty!) Neon signs flash loudly in my head, 'Who do you think you are…Posh Spice!' And let's face it, trying to disguise a stroller and a toddler with a penchant for sparkling shoes and 'hammys' doesn't go down so well. But that's OK. No really! Don't feel sorry for me. Whilst I'm partial to an Hermes Birkin (although my 'copy' has been eye-balled as the real thing) and I've got my eye on a pretty pair of Jimmy Choo stilettos (do they make any other kind?) for the most part - call me sensible, call me stupid, I'm not willing to part with a month's salary (and the rest) for one small, solitary item! (However perfectly handcrafted it may be.) What I'm about to say now might cause many a fashionista to gasp in horror at what could be viewed as a serious fashion crime - but in all honesty - I'd much rather be lauding it up on high street, where the fashion is fun, frequent and affordable! Enter: Zara and H & M, two of my best buddies….now they are the kind of friends who give you more bang for your buck! Trust me girls (and guys!) Loyal and available. Which is why you can imagine my sheer horror when I discovered that Hong Kong's biggest H & M (all four glorious floors) in downtown Central is closing. A frantic 'this can't be right' google confirmed, yes! the news is true... Swedish owned company H & M can no longer afford the $US700-thousand a month rent for the 2,800 square-metre flagship store. Yep a month! H&M will, however, retain its 11 other branches in Hong Kong. A small mercy.. AND Zara will take its place, forking out US$1.4-million a month for the site. Double that of H & M. (Still breathing?) So by now it will come as no surprise to hear that last year Hong Kong was ranked the world’s most expensive location for prime real estate and office rents. In the last two years rent increased by 19 per cent. As a consequence there's now a growing band of Hong Kong ground-level retailers and restaurant operators being forced out of prime locations. Smaller retailers are moving online and restaurant owners are moving upstairs. The spike is due to two major factors - a lack of new commercial premises available (in other words no space) and strong demand from foreign luxury-goods retailers for flagship stores in premium locations. Abercrombie and Fitch reportedly signed a $1million-a-month lease last year for a downtown location that saw a month long promotional campaign involving 150 male models parading around town half-naked on an open-top bus; when they weren't flashing their flesh on the street, you could find them lounging around at the W Hotel, eight packs and all! (Naturally I had to see what all the fuss was about!) Let's not digress….why the demand (no not for the male models) for prized locations from big name designers? Well, apparently it's being driven by a desire to cater to the increasing number of mainland Chinese flocking to Hong Kong to take advantage of the low taxes. The number of visitors from the motherland shopping up a storm has ballooned to 28 million each year…that's four times Hong Kong's population! As I write this, there are calls for the Hong Kong government to cap the number of mainland visitors, but retailers have slammed the calls as "irrational." I live (ever-so conveniently) above 'Elements' Mall. The Feng Shui designed shopping centre gets its name from the five elements of Chinese Daoist philosophy: wood, water, metal, fire, earth. There are five sections with these names in the mall and each sells different kinds of goods and services that match these ideas. Most of the goods and services I see though sell for far from down to earth prices. Not only is Elements a Feng Shui master's kingdom, it's a designer lover's paradise where Burberry, Balenciaga, Prada, Miu miu, Rolex and Chanel rule the retail universe. (Thankfully there's also an H & M.) Mind you, just how long it continues to supply my addiction is anyone's guess…no sooner do I turn my back for a Mint Mocha and those stores of the more common garden variety disappear making way for the more manicured lawns of McQueen, Cartier or Tiffany. Not that I'm staking-out how the other half shops or anything, but I can't help but notice most of these stores are empty. At any given time there are at least four or five retail assistants standing around idly, just waiting…waiting…waiting. Ok that's not quite true, yesterday I just happened to be walking past a luxury watch shop when I couldn't help notice the sales assistant 'spritzing' the place. Yep! spraying (insert french accent) 'perfume' inside and out (perhaps hoping shoppers would sniff out a potential bargain) Unlikely! How can they afford to be so empty? For starters, there's currently a $US8.6-billion railway under construction next door to carry bullet trains underground directly from China to Hong Kong. It's estimated by 2016 it will carry 99,000 passengers a day. My guess is the big name brands are getting in early, knowing once there's a 300 km per hour train grinding to a halt next door complete with customs and immigration facilities… you can betcha bottom dollar they'll no longer be empty. In nearby Tsim Sha Tsui, one of Hong Kong's busiest shopping districts, customers queue along the front of shop windows, outside the likes of Dior, LV and Givenchy, waiting patiently behind velvet ropes. A security guard manages the orderly entry and exit of customers and there's no telling how long the wait can be. (What was that I was saying about a nightclub earlier?) Experts say the extravagant spending is all down to a rapidly expanding middle and upper class in China, seeking to enhance their identity and quality of life with luxury goods. In the past 10 years, over 100 million people in China have moved up to the middle class and many thousands have moved up to the wealthiest class. In fact China now brags nearly 235,000 millionaires. The China Brand Association claims 13 percent of Chinese, that's about 170 million people, regularly buy top-tier brands. So what makes a top-tier brand? Not necessarily those you might expect. Brands westerners often perceive as medium quality are seen by Chinese as superior, glamorous, even exclusive. Think Starbucks, Apple and Holiday Inn. These are all associated with prestige and elitism by the new affluent urban Chinese consumer, while in most western countries they're considered high quality but functional brands. (A Starbucks coffee has been described by the Chinese as a "mini luxury in a cup" and who am I to disagree.) The US company expects China to become their second largest market in the world and nearly 30 per cent of all new McDonalds opened this year will be in the Motherland. To top off this brand-name frenzy, American luxury-accessories label Coach and the Italian fashion powerhouse Prada made headlines last year when they became the first companies from their respective countries to list on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange. So far the Year of the Snake is off to an ambitious start with cash registers ringing loud and fast and average sales rising 20 per cent. Hong Kong….I'm in no doubt you've got the goods for those in need of a daring designer fix….but promise not to get too caught up in this luxury love affair. Some of us are in need of a retail therapy relationship with something a little more, shall we say, accessible…. Shopping spree anyone? … [Read more...]
Homeland…
Being an expat is the easy part, being good at it - not so 'all in your stride' straightforward. I've just arrived back in Hong Kong, bleary-eyed from an overnight flight with a two year old (say no more) and feeling a little bit, well, empty. It's been six months since I was home, the longest period since my 'stint' as an expat began. So far I've been lucky enough to get home on a pretty regular basis, but two and a half years into this mad Asian adventure, saying 'goodbye' doesn't get any easier. It's the quiet drive to the airport, everyone lost in their own world. Here we go again - brace yourself, don't cry - smile, make light-hearted banter, pretend you'll be back in no time and they'll be none the wiser you've even gone, lost in translation somewhere over the Orient. To read more...head to Expat Focus … [Read more...]
Out with the old, in with the new…
"Kung Hei Fat Choi!" or as they say up north in China "Xin Nian Kuai Le!" Roughly translated, that's "Best wishes and congratulations. Have a prosperous and good year." 2013 was the Year of the Snake and the party started without me….after a month of Australian sunshine (make that heat waves, cyclones, tornadoes and flooding) I was headed back to a wintry Hong Kong, smack bang in the middle of what's unquestionably the 'big kahuna' on the Chinese calendar, Chinese New Year. Make no mistake though, I'd been under no illusions…CNY (for short) is coming! No sooner had Santa left the building, tinsel was unravelled from those perfectly-primped Christmas trees and in their place, lions, lanterns and Lai See emerged in all their red and gold glory. Anticipation littered the air for weeks as locals frantically prepared to farewell the Year of the Dragon and welcome the steely snake, slithering ever-closer to his moment in the sun. For the record, the snake doesn't have the same kudos as the dragon - dubbed the luckiest of the Chinese lunar years. If you're born a 'dragon' in China, it's safe to say you've hit the zodiac jackpot! A mythical legend, you'll walk through life the strongest, smartest and luckiest of all 12 animal signs. To give you an idea of the divine powers the Oriental Dragon wields, last year saw wedding planners literally run off their feet as the number of couples racing down the aisle sky rocketed and hospitals were inundated with mums who'd desperately timed those romantic rendezvous to ensure a much-coveted 'dragon' baby. 2013 and the soothsayers are out in force to warn of the perils of the slippery snake and his venomous bite. The word is, commitments and promises made will be sorely tested and romance will be put on the back burner as the agile and dangerous reptile weaves its way through 2013. The previous two "snake" years have seen the September 11 attacks in 2001 and the Tiananmen Square Massacre in China in 1989, making locals fearful of a rocky year ahead. Nonetheless, the snake can also promote ambition, wealth and power and Feng Shui experts are trying to encourage positive vibes for an harmonious year. If you're not familiar with Asia, about now, you might be thinking pffftt! what a load of poppy-cock! For non-believers and (grateful) expats it might be a chance to take a week long holiday, sit back and let the fun begin, but for locals it's much more than a few sleep-ins and respite from the daily grind. Firstly, there's a mad rush to get home…travelers literally cause gridlock as they scramble to be with family (if you live away and only come home once a year, this is the one occasion you make the trip). For many people it's the only holiday all year and so far over a billion people have hit the road to be with loved ones. Just as westerners like to ring in the New Year with parties and plenty of frivolity under the guise of starting anew - the same can be said for Chinese New Year but don't think you can get away with making a few half-hearted resolutions through the champagne bubbles (how is that New Year's fitness plan going by the way??) Nope if you're a CNY devotee it's serious stuff and it revolves around family, friends, food and a whole lot of highly essential Chinese customs. Mostly, it's about reconciling ….and that means forgetting all your grudges and wishing peace and happiness for everyone! Yes that's everyone! (So if you've been harbouring a sour taste in your mouth over that family feud, now's the time to swallow your pride and make amends.) This is a culture so sincere in its well-wishing, it takes saying Happy New Year to a whole new level! You really want to hope you stuck to your christmas budget because if you're around these parts over CNY you better have pockets full of money when you make your well-wishes. Red pockets that is. (I'm pretty sure in our first year in Hong Kong, we left ourselves a bit red-faced, unaccustomed to Chinese New Year etiquette.) They call them 'Lai See' in Hong Kong or "Hang Bao" in China….originally given to ward off evil spirits, these days they symbolize good luck and prosperity… and it's a sure bet tucked deep into everyone's winter jackets you'll find pockets overflowing with red envelopes. Banks are stretched to the limit as locals rush to get crisp new bank notes. (Crinkly old crushed-up notes simply will not do.) Basically, the lucky Lai See receivers are unmarried relatives and friends, employees and children! Everyone else step aside and be prepared to dish out the dollars. There's a "standard" token amount of a $20 dollar note in a red packet, but you can give as much as you like to those 'special' people. If you live in an apartment and most of us do, it's customary to give the doormen, concierge and so on Lai See. Married couples might be wise to give two packets to unmarried friends - giving just one I'm told signals your relationship is separating! (No wonder they looked at me strangely last year.) As a hotel manager my husband will shell out no less than $8000HK. (Guess now's not the time to bring up that new frock huh?!) Before you go galavanting with your red packets of lucky cash, tradition dictates things at home must be spic and span. It's critical to clear out the cobwebs before CNY begins if you want good luck and harmony to come your way. Yep! time to roll up your sleeves ladies and gentleman and get down and dirty with the dust-buster. (Take note: whatever you do, refrain from sweeping once CNY is underway…..this could very well sweep all the good luck right out the front door!) Many homes and most businesses see CNY as the time to bring in a Feng Shui master to ensure the year starts off on the right footing. He'll advise whether offices should be changed, walls painted, chairs moved...all to "improve the air." It's all about the flow of energy. If you've had an influx of resignations and too many employees calling in sick, maybe it's time to re-think your office space! All sharp knives must be put away (not in case you're feeling a little unstable) rather in case they cut through potential luck coming into the house. It might also be a good idea to invest in some small 'orange trees' for the pad. They represent wealth and prosperity. It's one of those 'the word sounds like' situations. In Chinese 'oranges' sounds the same as the word for 'gold' and also for 'lucky.' You get my drift? If you've racked up any debts, no ifs or buts, now's the time to repay them. Heading into the new year with a clean slate is paramount to future success. It will also hopefully mean you've got enough cash for the all important new year makeover. It's not just your house that needs to be in ship-shape, you'll reap the rewards for sprucing yourself up from top to toe. What better opportunity to purchase a brand spanking new suit or ladies some sexy stilettos for the first day of CNY and it's all in the name of maintaining the sanctity of an ancient tradition (now that's a shopping spree to remember)! Red underwear are also deemed part of the 'lucky' outfit. If you need a haircut, don't wait for the holiday to head down to the local barber for a snip. It's got to be done before the New Year Festival begins. Why? According to Chinese mythology, the word 'fat' in the New Year greeting 'Kung Hei Fat Choi' sounds the same as the word 'hair'….(here we go again) and because having a lot of hair is seen as a statement of wealth, if you take the scissors to it, you're effectively cutting your money loose. In fact, some people don't even wash their hair at all over CNY for fear of bringing bad luck upon themselves. (You wouldn't want to let any of it slip away down the plug-hole would you)! If you don't like the cut, try not to shed any tears on New Year's Day either, this can mean you'll cry for the rest of the year. Also on the to do list, five days before New Year, many households like to offer a sacrifice to the Kitchen God by putting sweet, sticky food, like sticky rice or lotus seed in front of his picture. He looks over families and apparently reports to 'Jade the Emperor' on who's been naughty or nice (a bit like Santa really). It's hoped the offering of sweet food will encourage him to give a "sweet" report to the emperor and also stick his mouth together so he can't tell anyone about the questionable deeds he's witnessed. On the eve of Chinese New Year, supper is a family feast and fire works at midnight mark the beginning of the new year. It's believed the noise of the fireworks will drive away any evil spirits. Early the next morning, children wish their parents a healthy and happy new year - in return they receive Lai See. (Hello Toyworld!) At midnight on the first day of Chinese New Year, locals head to their local temple to place an incense stick. This I'm told brings luck for the entire year, so probably not one to miss. Then there are the zestfully colorful community events taking place around the city, most notably the ubiquitous 'Lion dance'…… It started thousands of years ago to scare away evil spirits. Two people perform at the head and the tail synchronizing their moves to music from a drum, gong and cymbal. The Lion has a mirror on his head to frighten away evil spirits with their own reflections. As the courageous lion runs along the streets visiting different places, as odd as it may sound he looks for green vegetables like lettuce, hung above the doors of houses or businesses. Hidden in the leaves is, you guessed it, Lai See. The lion must eat the lettuce and red packet and scatter the leaves to symbolize a fresh start for the new year and the spreading of good luck. Even better, should a family member or the owner of a business stick his or her head into the lions’s mouth, the year to come will even be more lucky and prosperous. Get dunking! The Festival of Lanterns on the first full moon of the New Year marks the end of the festivities (usually on the 15th day). A 500 year old tradition, it celebrates the return of light, the coming of spring and the beginning of the growing season. So is it all superstition gone mad, rituals gone wrong? Perhaps to some of us unfamiliar with these customs it can seem like a whole lot of mumbo jumbo, but to those who stem from generations of Chinese families it's all about honoring and respecting their ancestors. Things may be changing in China but taking pride in ancient traditions that have seen a culture of people live harmoniously and peacefully for thousands of years is still one thing that remains the same. So from me to you, Kung Hei Fat Choi! … [Read more...]
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