Mint Mocha Musings

The hotelier's wife: an expat affair around the globe

Leaving Las Vegas! There’s a New(ish) Kid on the Block – Viva Macau!

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  My thoughts are, most people are in one of two camps, those who bet…and those who don't.  Me? I'm not a gambler per se, although I have been known to enjoy the odd flutter on the horses (truth be told, I owned a small share in a race horse once, possibly the most expensive thing I've ever owned)!!  Oh, and in a past life, it's fair to say I was quite partial to bit of 'pokie-action' on the odd occasion!  But for the most part, I've never been one to pull up a chair and lay down a few chips. Actually I wouldn't have the first clue about the process…do you even say that!?  Admittedly though, it's a world that intrigues me.  The actual origin of gambling is unknown. The Chinese recorded the first official account of the practice back in 2300 BC, but it's generally thought gambling in some form or another has been seen in almost every society in history. These days, when you think about the gambling mecca of the globe, I'm guessing the glitzy, bright lights of the 'Las Vegas Strip' spring to mind first, right?  Me too! That is…. until I came to Hong Kong. It seems there's another gambling 'strip' on the world map and last year, this tiny pocket in Asia's South East generated no less than $45-billion in casino revenue!  Wait for it…..that's SEVEN times more than Las Vegas' earnings.  This oh-so-tiny speck on China's south coast they call Macau or Macao (the english spelling which is rarely used) may be no bigger than 30 square kilometres, but its strip - the 'Cotai Strip' - an area of reclaimed land that connects the two "islands" of Macau - Taipa and Coloane, is well and truly cementing its status as the undisputed heavyweight champion of the gaming industry. Now that my friends, is intriguing, yes? I'll preface this post by saying I've never actually gambled in this former Portuguese colony that sits at the mouth of the Pearl River. (No, I've been there on many a 'kid friendly' vacation - which, I'll admit, is not so bad either.)  If you're interested, check out this post I wrote for Hong Kong site, Sassy Mama. Anyway, as I was saying, Macau was, until 1999, the last remaining European colony in Asia, having been administered by Portugal since the mid-16th century.  Today, much like Hong Kong, it's been granted special SAR permission from Beijing, which means it's a Special Administrative Region. The 'one country, two systems' rule allows the city to run independently of its Motherland, China - with it's own currency, police force, legal system and immigration policy. You can read more about what it means to be an SAR, here. Here's the thing, with a population of just 600,000, it's the only city on the world's most populous continent (China) where gambling is actually legal.  Actually, it's been a legitimate activity in Macau for about 150 years. Centuries older than Las Vegas— it hosted legal gambling long before Nevada was even a state! It was the late 19th century when the government introduced a licensing system for the fan-tan houses (Chinese gambling houses).  In the past decade though, the city has majestically transformed itself from a colonial backwater with small-time gambling clubs, gangs and prostitution…. into the 'Las Vegas of the East.' The city now lays claim to 36 casinos -- and that's not the end of it. When restrictions on foreign operators were lifted in 2002, new casinos opened in droves as international firms joined the gold rush for success. Such rapid growth has of course attracted the industry's biggest players, including Las Vegas Sands and Wynn -- both listed in the Fortune 500 club. In fact, buoyed by big-spending mainland tourists, the world's largest gambling hub has just enjoyed its biggest and best ever year - propelling even more casino-owners up the rich lists. This pint-sized pokie heaven is now home to Asia's second-richest person Lui Che-Woo - owner of Macau's biggest casino, Galaxy. Even Australian tycoon, James Packer is being given a leg up the rich list, thanks to better than expected casino profits from his Macau investments.  Steve Wynn, who opened the $1.2 billion Wynn Macau in 2006, once called Macau "the most exciting growth story of the decade." Just last week it was announced, MGM China has won approval to build a major new casino in Macau. With a budget of around $2.5 billion, the 17.8 acre site will include 1600 hotel rooms, 500 gaming tables and 2500 slot machines (or pokies as we say Down Under), impressive to say the least, especially considering the growing emergence of competition from virtual sites like OnlineCasinoAustralia.com.au online casinos today.  Every month 2.5 million tourists flock to this glitzy playground to try their luck in a neon-lit shrine, that's become a testament to China's great passion for gambling. Just a stone's throw from the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong, the government is currently scrambling to build a bridge from Hong Kong to Macau that will cross some of the world's busiest shipping lanes. Currently it's 'boat only' across to the casino hub, with jam-packed ferries running back and forth around the clock (including all through the night if you lose on BlackJack and need a quick escape)! With Chinese New Year underway, it's the busiest travel time in the world and this new 'toast of the orient' has been inundated with a flood of cashed-up Chinese (around 2.7 million to be exact)! Inside these glittering casino walls, you'll see Baccarat on display in all its card-dealing glory. With little skill or strategy, interestingly it's the favored game of choice by Chinese punters over poker and blackjack…and brings in the lion's share of Macau's revenue. This old European card game based on chance, is played at lightening speed by those who don't come to Macau for fun, but to win....and win big!  Don't expect the music to be pumping, or for that matter, fist pumps and loud cheers of victory; all you'll hear is the rustle of clothing, as tea is sipped and words spoken in hushed tones - perhaps the occasional thump on a table – subtle signs of fortunes made and lost.  It's no secret, Chinese believe strongly in Feng Shui, Yin and Yang, ancient mythology and all things in between, and in gambling it's no different. Luck plays a big part with most believing 'winning' is more a result of fate than skill.  Word is - punters have a way of peeling back the cards looking for clues as to what the cards might hold. If they think the number is an unwanted higher number, they will blow on the card to "blow the big numbers away." Each time, this method purposefully creases the cards, rendering the cards unusable for another round! High rollers in VIP rooms are known to bet up to 2-million Hong Kong dollars (US$257,000) on a single hand of baccarat.  But while Macau's casinos are abuzz with the energy and abandon of the wildly wealthy, behind the permanently sparkling facades with decor dripping in gold and draped with diamond chandeliers, there are signs of something darker...an element of Russian Roulette. The city has attracted some of those unsavory elements, naturally associated with the industry, including 'money launderers' looking to evade limits on moving cash out of China. Beijing limits the amount of money Chinese can take out of the country to $50,000 per year. For those looking to skirt the rules, Macau provides an attractive alternative. By working with a junket operator -- which performs the basic functions of a tour company, bringing in high rolling punters to VIP rooms on extravagant package deals that see them loaded up with credit (based on the value of their property portfolios) - only to cash out their winnings in foreign currencies - the money can then be moved abroad and used to make purchases in Europe and the US. While most Junkets are law-abiding, some are reportedly linked to Triads (Chinese gangs of organized crime). As a result, this tiny tinseltown has seen several killings and kidnappings associated with debt collection, including one case a couple of years ago which saw two men stabbed to death in their hotel room. Dirty laundry aside, the city's unparalleled boom has also presented the peninsula with another problem -  Macau is almost entirely dependent on gambling. At this moment in time, according to official statistics, gambling taxes form 70% of Macau's government income. It seems the government and mega moguls have taken note and are investing heavily in lavish resorts, high-end shopping malls and elaborate stage shows, as the region tries to reinvent itself and potentially replace high rollers with middle class families.  Just as it once turned itself from a colonial backwater into a den of organised crime, now Macau needs to become the quintessential family tourist destination.  Leading the transformation is the world-famous Venetian Macau. This impressive 40-story development houses the world's largest casino, standing at a whopping 51,000 square metres….and wait…there's more.  It also includes a shopping mall to rival any retail nirvana, complete with its own Venetian-like Grand Canal winding through the centre, Gondola rides and serenading Gondoliers, not to mention, fake blue skies and a typically Venetian landscape.  Venice is too far away for most Chinese holiday-makers, so it's a handy substitute. If they can't get to Venice, this will curb the appetite, for the moment at least.  (OK, so I've been to Venice and as one of my all time favorites, this is definitely not Italy, but the scene is surprisingly more realistic than you might imagine….) Attached to the Casino and shopping mall is The Venetian hotel with its 3000 rooms, all of which are luxuriously spacious suites sporting lavish italian decor.  Across the road stands one of the world's biggest hotels, the Sheraton, just shy of 4000 rooms! With seven restaurants to choose from, two fitness centres, a kids club, a spa and three outdoor swimming pools, it's vibrant, busy and innovative. Arriving here is a little like stepping into an island paradise (complete with a surprising performance by island dancers upon check in). Over the road, the mega-casino, City of Dreams has opened two regular shows: Taboo, a cabaret and the House of Dancing Water, an acrobatics spectacle that simply (without a word of a lie) is one of the best shows you'll possibly ever see. Featuring extraordinary acrobatics, deep dive stunts into Olympic-sized pools, flying motorbikes and more, it is breath-taking... mind blowing. Speaking of spectacles, this once sleepy fishing village has also made itself a name with several grand appearances in James Bond movies, including the latest, Skyfall and in the early seventies extravaganza, The man with the golden gun. Stepping away from the all the glitz and glamour though, there's another side to this City of Dreams, a more humble, unassuming side that boasts a unique fusion of the Mediterranean and the Oriental. Last year marked the 500th anniversary since the arrival of the first Portuguese mariners to Macau. Predating Hong Kong by almost 300 years, Macau was the first European enclave in Asia. In a sure sign this little piece of Europe in China stands strong today - you'll see all of the city street signs in Portuguese. As a result of its mixed heritage (and in complete contrast to the gaudiness of the gambling district) you'll see pretty pastel-colored neoclassical buildings that flank paved cobble-stoned piazzas; a warren of tiny alley ways with all the old world charm of a European city, infused with ancient Chinese temples and shrines; and food stalls wafting with the smell of Dim Sum and fish balls mixed in with the aroma of Portuguese spices and those famous custard tarts. It's possibly this distinct Macanese flavor that really showcases Macau's multicultural identity - a unique blend of Chinese, European and Southeast Asian tastes.  They say Las Vegas is a monument to the American dream of endless possibility,  Macau is without doubt a place where two worlds collide…both perhaps with endless possibilities. Here's hoping this cultural hybrid can remain unscathed on its pathway to reinvention. The stakes for its future are high and getting the balance right is surely the key to success for this little pocket where razzle dazzle meets old world charm. Viva Macau!       **And there's more to Macau than meets the eye... check out how you can apply the game-play elements of Bingo to make the most of a Macau vacation here.   Related articles High-stakes Macau leaves Vegas behind as casino revenue soars … [Read more...]

Lai See: Lucky Money or Tradition Gone Mad?

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So, to tell you the truth, I'll be quite glad when this "official" Lunar New Year period is over. Otherwise known as Chinese New Year or the Spring Festival - it runs for 15 days! Yes…15 long days and for locals, Lai See is a crucial part of the age-old tradition, giving the phrase 'throwing money at people' new meaning. Now I'm not one to be a party pooper - I love a good shindig and never shy away from some festive cheer but jeez louise….as a 'Guailo' (white person) in an Asian country, this whole Lai See thing is kind of doing my head in.  These small red and gold envelopes are ever present, sneaking their way into every nook and cranny of festival life, determined to be the stars of the party. They hang from blossom trees in every lobby and shopping centre, and they poke out of people's handbags and coat pockets, perkily reminding you of your Lai See duty.  In all honesty, I'm still a little confused exactly what my Lai See 'duty' consists of - which is probably why the whole process gets me slightly hot under the collar.  It's actually my first proper experience with Chinese New Year - the first year I've been 'present' in Hong Kong. During our maiden year here, I was giving birth and well, you can appreciate, I was otherwise engaged. The next two Lunar New Years, I was off galavanting home, oblivious to the actual responsibilities that come with celebrating this auspicious holiday. This year I knew it was coming and I thought I was ready, but I was quickly informed, my idea of popping to the ATM to get a few bank notes and shoving them in their red and gold packets, was not going to cut it. You see they need to be new notes, crisp, ironed-flat bank notes, fresh from the money-making machine (wherever that may be)… can you imagine the queues? My 'she'll be right' attitude was met with some firm shaking of the head. Cannot La!  Really? New? Yes, really! The custom is said to show the 'giver' was thinking about the Lai See 'receiver' - used notes indicate they were forgotten about! Hmmm.... Thankfully, in my last minute panic, my husband offered me some of his Lai See… he has no choice but to be well prepared for this occasion. For at least the first four days he can expect to be confronted by every man and his dog. By that, I mean all of his staff members, who as his employees, are each entitled to a lucky Lai See packet. (Over the four day holiday period, he'll give out no less than HK$7000!!) His Lai See, I note, are elegant and rather chic looking, not your average 'Joe Blogs' packet. Traditionally they are red and gold which symbolizes good luck and prosperity, as well as warding off evil spirits. These days, I'm informed, Lai See packets have become somewhat of a status symbol. Corporate companies have their own Lai See envelopes designed (in what I'm told is a rather expensive process) and hand these out to clients, well before CNY!  Branding at its best right? You'll even see Mickey Mouse and Hello Kitty style envelopes up for grabs these days!  So, over the last four days, every time we leave the house, I've been working up a cold sweat, giving myself heart palpitations as I scramble to get my 'Lai See load' in order.  You see, it's important first and foremost, to have enough Lai See. They need to be given to the concierge, doormen, cleaning ladies and security guards…basically anyone who is of service to you. A trip to the supermarket or gym is also liable to be fraught with Lai See lurkers. The problem, I discovered on my first CNY exit, is - while I was counting on the usual concierge lady, a doorman and a security guard or two, I wasn't prepared for being mobbed by the paparazzi. (If only all they wanted was a picture!) Give one Lai See packet and I quickly found out these people can smell you from a mile away.  Staff materialise from out of the wood works in all their Kung Hei Fat Choi-ing glory. (Simply saying this phrase (Happy New Year) is akin to asking for your lucky money.) To give to one and not to another, well that's just not done. So with that in mind, I quickly learned you can disperse with a dozen envelopes in one fell swoop.  Meantime, don't think you can just carelessly toss the packet ever so casually into their hands or on the desk as you strut on by, no - you're supposed to hand them over with two hands, bowing at the recipient as you do and of course chanting the obligatory Kung Hei Fat Choi….in return. I'm uncoordinated at the best of times, so with a Dora backpack hooked over my shoulder, a handbag slung over my arm and a couple of winter coats tucked underneath, I'm finding it all a little difficult to carry out this process with any  degree of 'aplomb.' Oh and just to throw a spanner in the works, I was told today I should be saying something back to the person along the likes of having a 'healthy and happy' life. (But make sure you put some thought into it for each individual, ok la?!)  A lot to remember for someone just trying to get out the front door isn't it?  And there are of course different amounts to be given out, usually giving a little more to those who've really helped you out during the course of the year (particularly if you want to shore up good service for the year ahead I'm told). Oh the pressure. For the most part it's a single $10, $20 or $50 notes…. always ending in an even number and never $40 - must not forget - the number four sounds like death in Chinese.  Trying to remember which coloured envelopes have what money is also a little tricky when you're being 'papped' and need to act quickly. My lack of a 'system' failed me miserably.  My other problem after a few days of taking part in this practice - is I can't remember who I've given Lai See to…. and even if James has already handed out packets on behalf of 'us' - technically if you want to present as a loving, united couple - as opposed to separated, you need to give one each!  He took Ava to the traditional Lion Dance at work today and with it being customary to give all children Lai See, she certainly banked a few of her own lucky fortunes. Its even considered customary to feed the dancing lions Lai See in their mouths if you really want to ensure a stream of good luck in the coming year.   Over the course of the weekend we met up with a few friends to celebrate. Of course I forgot to take Lai See for the young children of these friends!! Luckily James had slipped a few surplus packets in his pocket.  Meantime, Ava had me hiding under the table in horror as she hastily ripped open all her packets, revealing her takings to all and sundry - a ritual not to be done in public out of courtesy I'm told! My friends laughed at me as I cringed with embarrassment -- even more at realizing I hadn't given enough in return. Today, a little short on Lai See, I thought I'd sneak out underground, avoiding too many Kung Hei's on the way through the gates, but alas, I was unable to escape unscathed from the Lai See lurkers, chased down in the car park by the ever so friendly cleaners who appeared from nowhere like those grinning rabbits out of a hat, with their big toothy smiles and lots of "Gong Shi Gong Shi" (Best Wishes). Amazing how friendly people get around this time of the year.  Ahhhh god love them….if I was them, I'd probably be milking this age-old tradition for all it's worth too. Ancient Chinese folklore claims it brings good luck for both givers and receivers, so hopefully for their sake and mine, next year I'll aim to be better prepared…..complete with fail-safe Lai See 'system' at the ready!!  *By the way, a new study shows in today's digital age, more people prefer to receive their Lai See by internet transfer. Maybe I might have better luck with that?          … [Read more...]

Inside a Chinese Kitchen: Dim Sum and then Some….

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Back in the day, as a child growing up in the land of the long white cloud - New Zealand and later Australia - Thursday night was always takeaway night… and it was usually restricted to fish and chips (no complaints there) with a good dose of Wonder Woman spinning her magic on the tele.  Even pizza was off the take-away menu back then….and Chinese food, well.... it was well and truly an unknown quantity. (Giving my age away really aren't I?) As time went on, the first of many Chinese restaurants began sprouting up across the western world in all their red and gold, chopstick wielding glory.  If you had the luxury of dining out in one, it was considered a rather exotic experience. The epitome of kitschy 70/80's sophistication…these international establishments were true oriental gems. Their brightly lit facades with neon lights flashing names like Ming's Kitchen, Golden Dragon or Jade Palace cemented their cosmopolitan status - while inside, large, open plan restaurants heavily decorated with red and gold wallpaper, glitzy gold lion and dragon statues and chinese lanterns swinging with pride. Large round tables, were draped in the obligatory red or white table cloths, some with the 'Lazy Susan' turntables... and let's not forget those overcrowded fish tanks.  These days, many Chinese restaurants really haven't changed all that much in appearance and feel. The names still ring true and the decor, well let's just say it's still got that 'Porpoise Spit' feel. (Muriel's Wedding fans will know what I'm talking about here - if not, just picture that slightly garish ambience that of course we all know and loved.) In Hong Kong, it's no secret that residents today like their Chinese local eatery to be bold and bright. The brighter the better. Fluorescent lighting if possible!  These clientele are not here for a candle lit dinner for two, but a chatty, lively meal, where conversing with staff for much of the meal duration is seen as a sure sign of a good Chinese restaurant. (Mind you, I'm told in Mainland China, it's quite the opposite, with locals preferring private rooms to eat in (in the name of privacy and exclusivity)! Globally,  while some of the traditional interior styles still reign supreme, thankfully the food is no longer limited to the tried and true Sweet & Sour Pork (often drenched in that bright pinky/orange sauce), the classic Honey Lemon Chicken and of course, the ubiquitous Fried Rice. Chinese cuisine outside of the East has come a long way. Yum Cha (which means "drinking tea") usually accompanied with a plethora of Dim Sum, is a popular weekend pastime for many an Aussie.  Fried Dim Sim - a popular fusion of the East and West has resulted in the famous heavier, thicker version of the lightly steamed Chinese-style Dim Sum. It's probably fair to say, before I came to Hong Kong to live, I wasn't a huge fan of Chinese food….I didn't dislike it, but I was typically your standard 'fried rice and lemon chicken' ordering girl, who didn't have the die-hard dedication of someone who today, has been exposed to some of the tastiest 'chicken feet' in the land! (Just kidding… pork buns and turnip cake are much more my style.)  Dim Sum literally means "Touch Your Heart" and three and a half years into my Asian experience, I reckon it's done just that! Served in small bamboo baskets with copious amounts of tea, according to Chinese custom these bite-sized dumplings are traditionally not supposed to be eaten at dinner time, but I say, give me Dim Sum all day, any day! The most popular kind in Hong Kong is 'Shao Mai' - steamed dumplings made of pork and shrimp, wrapped in a thin layer of wheat flour. During my most recent Dim Sum dining sensation, in the name of this post, I invited myself out the back for a peek into an authentic chinese kitchen. First things first, there's steam… not just a bit of smoke but a giant cloud of steam that catches in your throat, if you're clearly not used to it! What goes on in a Chinese kitchen is very much like watching a sacred ritual take place. Chinese kitchens are broken down into stations, based on the equipment they’re using - versus the western style kitchen stations which relate to the product they’re cooking. And at the heart of every Chinese culinary hotspot, the Wok! The distinctive bowl-shaped pan is used for everything from stir-frying to deep frying and making sauces. The only thing you don't use the wok for is to prepare rice.  Trivial Fact: Historical influences have played a role in the style and shape of the wok; at various times throughout Chinese history, such as periods of famine, the ability to conserve food and eat well but cheaply was crucial. The shape of the wok ensures the cooking oil is distributed evenly, which means, essentially, less oil needs to be used. The food falls back into the pan and not over the edge during stir-frying, which is kind of handy!  (Side Note: A little birdy tells me woks also catch fire very easily!) So, the Wok Station in a Chinese kitchen usually consists of four woks and if you're on wok number 1, my friend, you are officially the king pin!  Then there's the BBQ station, Steamer station and Chopper station…….and never the twain shall meet. Repeat: If you're a chef cooking Peking Duck at the BBQ station, then you will never cross over and help out on, say the Steamer…. you will never go to the wok and fry up a few pieces of beef for a stir fry. No. Can. Do!  Each station requires extremely different techniques and is considered to be a work of art, where cuisine is crafted with absolute precision. 'Chopping' can be such a delicate process with certain dishes requiring a two centimetre bean curd is sliced into 30 pieces! In very traditional style, food carving is also quite the art!  Even Dim Sum is a competitive craft and can make or break the reputation of a restaurant in Hong Kong. If the Dim Sum is below expectations, visitor numbers will drop substantially. It's all about the texture -- the skin must be so thin, it's actually translucent and you can see the contents (which must be light and fresh) inside the dim sum.  Chinese food must always be piping hot…and I mean so bloody hot, as a westerner you will surely burn your mouth on it.  There are eight regional styles of chinese cooking from Huaiyang cuisine, which created the famous 'Salted Pork in Jelly'  to the popular Sichuan cuisine which uses lots of hot pepper & chillies and is known for its seven tastes and eight flavours. “Seven tastes” refers to the seven basic flavors - sour, pungent, hot, sweet, bitter, aromatic, and salty. Tea Smoked Duck is a famous dish and Hot Pot is a signature of Sichuan Cuisine - where everybody chooses their own favorite ingredients to cook in the communal "hot-pot‟ and makes their own dipping sauce.  Guandong/Cantonese cuisine favours Dim Sum and plenty of BBQ options including the whole roast suckling pig, while Shandong (eaten in the north) includes lots of braised dishes like abalone with shallots and garlic. All use very different ingredients and require quite different cooking skills. For more click on the different styles of cuisine across China click here. Chinese chefs are in overdrive across the country, with the most important and by far the biggest holiday of the year in full swing. Chinese New Year! Food is a central part of Chinese culture, uniting families, colleagues and friends, particularly in the Kong with most people living in relatively small apartments…meeting venues are invariably restaurants. And come Chinese New Year, it's all about the 'lucky' foods. For example, serving a whole chicken during Spring Festival symbolizes 'family togetherness,' noodles represent a long life (superstition says it's bad luck to cut them)! Both clams and Spring Rolls symbolize wealth; clams because of their resemblance to coins, and Spring Rolls because their shape is similar to gold bars. On the other hand, a food can have extra special significance during Chinese New Year because of the way the Chinese word for it sounds.  The Cantonese word for lettuce sounds like 'rising fortune,' so it's common to serve a lettuce-wrap filled with other lucky food (it also explains why the dancing lions traditionally catch a lettuce in their mouths)!  Tangerines and oranges are passed out freely during Chinese New Year and small orange trees guard every shop and home entry, because the words for tangerine and orange sound like 'luck and wealth.'  Our fishy friends also play a large role in festive celebrations. The word for fish, "Yu" sounds like the words both for 'wish and abundance.' As a result, on New Year's Eve it is customary to serve a whole fish at the end of the evening meal. For extra luck, the fish is served whole, with head and tail attached, for a good beginning and ending for the coming year. To find out more about the timeless traditions and folklore attached to the Lunar New Year - check out my post here. "In With the Old, Out with the New." So from me to you….as the Year of the Snake draws to a close and the Year of the Horse gallops into fruition…. symbolising the year of energy, flamboyance and fun-loving frivolities, there's no better time to eat, drink and be merry!  Kung Hei Fat Choi.  PS. Don't forget the sweet stuff! According to legend, sugary snacks sweeten up prospects for the coming year….what's on the menu? Nian Gao (rice pudding), Jau Goks (crispy dumplings) candied fruits and seeds.   … [Read more...]

The Skyscraper Bubble – Living in Hong Kong, the Only Way is Up

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Being back home in the big, wide brown land of Australia for the silly season, it struck me just how different 'living' in Hong Kong is.  Residing in one of the most vertical cities on the planet, means very few of us live in a house - at least a house as I know it.    You know, a typical three bedroom, low level family home with a garden, maybe even a pool, a white picket fence…a laundry (heaven forbid), you might even get a front door AND a back door….perhaps some storage space to go with that spacious bedroom. Heck, maybe there's even room for a BBQ or space to ride that scooter (toddler's not mine).  In Hong Kong though, not so much.   It's skyscrapers all the way. 8000 to be exact! With an extremely high population density (7 million people) the urban sprawl of tall, sleek concrete buildings spreads thickly across Hong Kong's relatively small city size of 1100 km2.  Building 'up' is the only way to make sure we all fit…and even then it's a tight squeeze.  From above, the city for all intents and purposes looks like a stack of dominoes. (Hopefully not about to topple over.)     Sure, you can head out into the green 'burbs that exist in all their lush glory beyond the Fragrant Harbour, and you will encounter village houses (typical of a two or three story town house in Australia).  Set on considerably more spacious blocks, it's a very different style of living from the usual shoebox-size apartments slotted into the thousands of multi-tower developments. With around 300,000 village homes in the city, you can well imagine, these places are as long in appeal as they are short in supply.  In the early 70's Hong Kong law gave any male heir over the age of 18, who could prove he descended from one of Hong Kong's original villages in 1898, the right to build a small house on a plot of land, either owned by the village itself or on leased government land.  With land at an all time premium, today, most "houses" that do exist tend to be out of the city centre, but if you're lucky you'll get a patch of green to call your own and a view that includes a sea of sky and tropical terrain as opposed to a tiny piece of blue (or haze) poking through the looming buildings.  Otherwise, it's up up and away. You live on the forty something floor, high up in your tower (and trust me there are some days when I really do feel like Rapunzel).  When it comes to high-rise living in the Kong, it's a choice of the old verses the new. Apartments in older blocks are generally a lot larger, ranging from 1,800 to 3,000 square feet with bigger balconies and plenty of character. On the flip side, they are less likely to have all the impressive facilities that go hand in hand with most newish high-rises.  Either way, in Hong Kong, small is a fact of life. Our apartment (for real estate purposes) is 1400 square feet and includes three bedrooms (two out of three bedrooms are really pushing it to be described as bedrooms per se - unless your bed is for those on the extremely short side). It pays to know that in Hong Kong your floor space also includes the calculation of your share of the lift, the lobby and even the mail-box!! Hello Ikea! Always packed to the rafters with its multi-purpose, dolls house-size furniture, you'll find everything from beds to coffee tables, cabinets and kitchens made especially for Hong Kong's small spaces. Yet, somehow, ironically, most apartments in Hong Kong still manage to have a "Maid's Room"… all 10 square feet, including a wash basin and shower for your 'live in Helper' (ours though has managed to become a storage room not unlike like the 'Tardis' in Doctor Who. (Definitely bigger on the inside!)  Meantime, most units are without the mod-cons you come to expect these days, like a dishwasher or perhaps the not so 'mod con' oven. Ovens are a rarity in Honkers, due to the lack of space but also the fact that most locals are too busy using their Wok to make dinner (and just quietly, as a reluctant cook, I'm not complaining)!  Those of you who are big foodies, no need to fret, while this might seem like a gross inconvenience to begin with, there are around 8000 restaurants in Hong Kong and most residential buildings stand tall on top of giant shopping malls flooded with more restaurants than you can poke a stick at. On top of this, public transport is a dream…with train stations on every corner and taxis literally rolling past you day and night, there's no excuse not to head out.  While it has its lows, high-rise living really is a convenient lifestyle, with everything at your fingertips. Most modern residential complexes will boast a clubhouse. (As a hotelier's wife, who needs to live in the hotel!? ) And I'm not just talking about a room with a billiard table and a projector screen. No my friends, these are (without a word of a lie) like mini resorts. Picture pristine pools (complete with lifeguards and fluffy fresh towels) movie theatres, tennis courts, cafes, libraries, kids playrooms, gyms, saunas, spas, dance rooms, bbq areas….not to mention regular 'activities' on offer, like cake making, wine tasting and events to keep your small people out of trouble.  The other highlights to high-rise living? For me - security staff on site 24/7 is a huge plus. It means safety is a given and walking around the complex at any time of the day or night, not out of the question.  And lets not forget the concierge staff who are always eager to help. They open doors, carry bags, valet park cars and generally make life much more pleasant…after three years, these guys are great friends (at the very least someone to chat to on the way in at the end of the day). It also means you can't escape unnoticed! Don't be trying to escape for a sneaky late night cocktail! And…. there are rules, rules and more rules that come with this style of living. Don't hang washing over the balcony for starters, in fact don't let anything accidentally fall off that 30 something floor… notices are issued regularly about falling shower gels and carelessly thrown tissues. On the upside, things are clean, very clean. (So clean in fact, on our recent trip to Australia my three year old kept asking "Mummy, why is there so much rubbish on the ground?") (You can read about Hong Kong's meticulous side involving scrubbing escalator grooves with a toothbrush here.)  Note to self - don't forget, at any time a gondola full of workers might just be 'hanging' outside your window! (Most buildings have gondolas on the rooftop for any 'outside' jobs.) But no matter how high-tech things get, you'll still find good old bamboo scaffolding is used to erect intricate webs of sky-high walls and platforms strong enough to hold a legion of construction workers. High rise living means you can expect 'maintenance' and lots of it. Most weeks involve a notice in the letter box, with a day of complete lock down, one way or another. Whether it's the fresh water, the flushing water, the lifts, the carpark…just about everything is constantly being tended to around the clock. I won't lie, it can get a tad frustrating.  Manicured gardens that are strategically placed around the building, preened to perfection are usually off limits.….'look but don't touch please.' It can also on occasion feel like you are living in a construction zone. Oh the noise!!  You might be thinking about now, things surely feel a little on the crowded side, but don't be fooled…. these places can feel like deserted islands. You can literally go months without seeing the same person twice…or as Murphy's Law has it, see the same person every day in the lift, for a week. (As an added bonus, just think of that free time you get traveling up to the forty something floor - plenty of time to get lost in your thoughts,  send an email, check twitter, write the grocery list. Taking two floors to my mum & dad's foyer just doesn't quite cut it. Trivial Fact: There are no floors ending in the number 4 due to the fact, the number sounds like 'death' in Chinese. And despite the overwhelming number of people packed into this concrete jungle,  I kid you not, there's still that cosy 'village' feeling, for me at least. Beneath us in the glossiest of glossy shopping centres (mostly crammed with completely unaffordable shops bar Starbucks and H & M)  is our home away from home.  Three plus years into our residential stay, it's a place where everybody knows your name (cue 'Cheers' theme) ….ok make that, everybody knows my toddler's name!  Every visit since she was tiny, without fail, the local dry cleaners have given Ava a lollipop. Starbucks know my coffee order before I reach the counter (Ok so it's not that hard). They even find us seats when it's busy. The shop opposite was a handy babysitter when Ava was small, entertaining her endlessly…until they inconveniently got moved out (and the girls cried saying goodbye to my girl.)   The local doctors, the ladies who stand waiting to clean the toilets (yes this happens) the school teachers, the ladies in the supermarket who don't speak a word of english (and also conveniently bring your groceries to your door) fuss around Ava like she's a rare breed.  At least I can rest assured, if madam escapes, she won't get far! When it comes to festivities, there's no need to worry about not getting into the latest holiday spirit…. whether its Halloween, Christmas, Chinese New Year or Easter, your tower WILL be dressed to the nines.   Of course renting these small spaces that are so highly sought after is by no means a cheap affair. Rent has risen nearly 20 per cent in Hong Kong in the past four years. Such spaces now gobble up about a third of many residents’ incomes. CNBC reported that in 2013 real estate prices in Hong Kong were the second highest in the world, only behind Monaco. Apartments range from HK$5000 to $75,000 and beyond and those with the modern facilities are no less than $40,000 - that's $5000 US dollars to rent, a month.  In a recent block of apartments for sale the cheapest flat cost more than HK$12 million with no less than 5,000 people queuing, pushing and jostling for 60 luxury flats.. Would-be buyers had to lodge their interest, the price they were prepared to pay and enter a lottery to win the chance to "potentially" purchase one of the apartments. (Tip: The higher you go in your residential tower, the more expensive the rent (less noise and pollution, so they claim)!  Of course with such extortionate prices for real estate, there are those locals who can only afford to live in tiny 'cage homes.' You can read about the massive divide between the rich and the poor here.  One of the great surprises about Hong Kong's endless sea of older high rises though are the myriad of hidden gems behind closed doors. Head into any nondescript building, take the rickety lifts and step out into a small passageway - Voila - you'll find everything from TV studios to chic hair dressing salons, furniture stores, five star restaurants and rooftop bars. It's quintessential Hong Kong. It's definitely a different way of living but it's been an experience this regular girl from DownUnder has grown to love. It's not forever - some day in the near future, I look forward to that white picket fence and a spare room that's bigger than a postage stamp (and maybe even an oven to call my own, but probably not). But for now, it's home….and something tells me, life high up in the tower will never be quite so convenient.  (This Rapunzel is reluctant to let down her hair.)             … [Read more...]

A Tale of Three Cities: What do Hong Kong, Bangkok and Manila have in common?

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In the space of a week, I found myself immersed in (and as always) eagerly trying to absorb the cultures of three very different Asian cities….Hong Kong, Bangkok and Manila.  I still pinch myself and wonder how it is, I ended up roaming amongst the madness of these mighty metropolises. At first glance, each share a generic constitution, brandishing that dynamic energy and exotic makeup that is typically Asian. Get close enough though and you'll see cities that showcase multiple personalities on all fronts - rich in their own culture, each full of hidden gems and distinctively amazing food. Maybe that's what really makes them typically part of Asia - the world's largest and most populous continent - home to 4.3 billion people and hosting 60 per cent of the world's population….these are three cities in Asia forever evolving.   What you first see is not always what you get. For me, these are places full of untapped adventure, eye-opening customs and intoxicating lifestyles and each possess a uniqueness that makes it a Pearl of the Orient in its own right. Bangkok, The City of Angels It was my first time in Bangkok and I was keen to experience the culture this 'City of Angels' had to offer. With a population pushing 11-million the Thai capital is reputed to be equally as colorful and quirky as Hong Kong, but with a slightly edgier and little less sophisticated side than the Fragrant Harbour. A quick two hour, fifty flight away, it was a mini holiday to this tropical hub, with my husband and our small person in tow. (Ok - really who am I kidding? No flight with a toddler is ever 'quick' is it!)  But, fortunately for us, this meant with hotelier friends in the 'know,' we were staying in five-star style. Met off the plane (literally) and escorted through the airport and the VIP immigration gate at a rate faster than a Grand Prix winner, bundled into a hotel car (not quite of Grand Prix proportions) before I could blink, we were headed directly into the heart of the Land of Smiles.  Now, I'm used to a pretty tight squeeze on the roads in Hong Kong, but it usually involves a swarm of iconic red taxis all fighting for space, criss-crossing in and out of each other's paths, all with less than a centimetre to spare. It's chaotic but generally, feels like well organized chaos. (And surprisingly there are very few road accidents.) But Bangkok! Bangkok is a different league of traffic chaos altogether, it's not organized, it's noisy and it's manic. Giant tourist coaches, busses, cars and taxis go head to head with tiny Tuk Tuks, scooters and the very brave  on foot -  attempting to push cart loads of goods through the middle of the traffic jams.  Everyone is competing for a spot on the tightly congested roads, with little care for anyone or any thing who gets in their way. So as we made our way through what can only be described as a 'mishmash of humanity in all its glory,' I desperately tried to soak up every piece of this patch-worked pandemonium, which at first glance felt like driving through a giant version of steamy island neighbor Phuket (minus those azure blue beaches to give it that tropical-holiday feel). I smiled as I spotted the ubiquitous and bizarrely named 'Cabbages and Condoms' chain. Yep, we're in Thailand!  As we passed pretty sizable, shiny shopping centres, all boasting the big luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Prada and Gucci, I thought of Hong Kong - then there were those globally recognized franchises like Maccas and Starbucks -- which well, make you think of everywhere.  Then, juxtaposing these big names in complete contrast, row after row of street food stalls and colorful markets, literally 'open for business' on every spare patch of footpath, selling everything imaginable.  While there's no doubt it's this diverse in Hong Kong, markets and street food stalls tend to be confined to their specific spots across the city.     So, after the traffic frenzy and market mayhem, my immediate thought was the lack of skyscrapers in this busy downtown district - but (there's a but) I'm starting to realize, after living amongst the world's skyscraper capital for a decent period of time, no city, except perhaps New York, will ever seem quite as dense or concentrated - citified!   But scratch beneath the surface of Bangkok just a little, and it's soon apparent that this is a city with a savvy and stylish scene of its own. Teeming with more Five Star sanctuaries than the average island paradise, you'll be spoilt for luxury choice….day spas, infinity pools and rooftop bars proudly overlook the Bangkok hustle and bustle, that stretches out before them.  There are two sides to every city. In scenes not dissimilar to the rest of Asian society, it's a place where two worlds collide and extreme poverty is interspersed with overt wealth. Graceful temples stand proud, gleaming with glistening gold-tipped spires, while beggars prey on tourists just outside, desperate for a handout.…not unlike a scene I saw today at Hong Kong's busiest markets. A spot overflowing with tourists, a disfigured beggar sitting in the middle of the path, shaking his money tin, while people literally tripped over him to get by. It's a sad fact of life in most parts of the world and we were quickly reminded, no city is immune.   In one such instance, walking the streets (admittedly a little lost) a little 'street boy' no bigger than Ava rushed at her, ripping her drink bottle from her hands, having a good old slurp before I was even able to register what was happening. Not stopping there, he attempted to unzip her Peppa Pig backpack hanging on the back of the stroller and when he was given the quick brush off, attempted to take a quick chunk out of her arm, before reaching for a plastic stool and taking aim. Not a happy camper! Needless to say we hightailed it out of there in disbelief.  Not all Asian cities are alike when it comes to safety and while Hong Kong is regarded as one of the safest cities in the world, Bangkok (along with many others) have their dark sides.  When you can walk many of the streets of Hong Kong alone at night, it's easy to become complacent, easy to forget a handbag in prominent view could be an easy target for shrewd thieves (many who use young children to distract naive parents) in broad daylight. As we made our way through the city, resolving to keep our wits about us, the adventures came thick and fast.  In truth, it's what I love most about traveling to new, unexplored and exotic places. The adrenalin that courses through your veins, as you try to navigate unknown territory, all the while putting out that calm and confident exterior.  'Naive tourist, I am not!' (As my husband gets out the map to read in full view.) ;)  Having lived and breathed Asia for over three years, it's fair to say, I no longer feel like a barefaced tourist in these cities, there is a touch of traveler's credibility comforting me as we stroll the streets or chug up the river on an old fishing boat filled with other tourists. I greet the scenes with as much fervor as I always have but also with a knowing familiarity of what lies beneath these oriental cities, that feel more like home to me, every day. But I'm also blatantly aware, I'm not and never will be a 'local.' We'll always be the 'Gweilo' family with a healthy dose of the unusual about us. An oddity amongst the masses, occasionally to be looked upon with sheer amusement. No matter how long you travel in Asia, you will always be in the spotlight of some intrigued locals. Admittedly, drawing attention to one's self is not an ideal plan of attack and if anyone was giving the game away in Bangkok, it turned out to be me (not my map-reading husband). Trying to jump from an old boat, packed to the rafters, on to a rickety jetty (in heels) as it unexpectedly motors away at high speed - not such a great way to remain low key. Nor is becoming a human roundabout for more than 100 scooters, with no concern whatsoever about roaring 'around' you on a busy highway. Rushing past within millimeters, I could literally feel the wind whip my cheeks!  (If we were out of place before, at this point we were clearly on display in all our ignorant road-crossing glory!)  Still, naivety aside, Bangkok is the Land of Smiles and the locals didn't disappoint. For the most part, it's a very friendly nation of super relaxed people with wide, toothy smiles, eager to please at every turn of our adventure.  In fact, it's not unlike my other destination that very week, the Philippines. I've said it before on this blog, they are truly a people who radiate genuine warmth. It was no five star journey on this work trip to Manila but it was service with a smile all the way. Flying the nation's own airline, Cebu Airlines was a 'pile on board and go with the flow' affair, but the flight attendants never stopped smiling and the pilot even stepped outside of his cabin to bid his passengers goodbye in person. I don't think I've ever seen that happen in all my 'flying' adventures? Not such a tourist trap, Manila is a city facing many challenges. A lot grittier than both Hong Kong and Bangkok, it is one of Asia's fastest growing economies but in contrast, it is a city that's still steeped in poverty, with a distinct third world feel. It has some catching up to its counterparts to do but despite all of this country's setbacks, it keeps on keeping on. You can read more about my adventures in the Philippines here, here and here. One thing's for sure though, Asia travel, whether it's to Hong Kong, Bangkok or Manila -- each are cities that remain ensconced in strong tradition, yet are brushed with a modern twist.  Not to mention that unmistakeable Asia smell. Step off the plane in any Asian city and you are hit with the instantly recognizable and distinctly local smells that waft through the streets, reminding you, you're in the East. The quintessential Asian city showcases a harmonious blend of the old with the new, where you can't help but be captivated by the energy that runs through these oriental pearls. Each city has allowed me the opportunity to enrich my understanding of these complex, diverse and charming cultures, where everyday holds the potential for a new adventure….the opportunity to feel alive!  To me, that's priceless.  What about you? Tell me your biggest Asian adventure? … [Read more...]