I tentatively walked into the packed, brightly lit Chinese restaurant. While I'm getting used to being the only Gweilo in the room, this was my first 'local' dinner with part of the Westin team and I was acutely aware I was stepping into unfamiliar territory. Busy, hot and noisy - the restaurant (which doesn't have an English name I can give you) was a nod to former Chinese leader Chairman Mao, boasting walls dressed with large pictures of the man they call the founder of the People's Republic of China. I could immediately sense a buzz of excitement in the air. A city embellished with pretty red lanterns at every turn, there was no mistaking Chinese New Year or as it's more commonly known up north - Spring Festival - China's biggest national holiday, was just around the corner. It was time to celebrate this significant occasion and the impending two week festive spell. I won’t lie, I was intrigued about what lay ahead.…not just for Chinese New Year but I was curious about the cultural differences that would translate over dinner. The hotelier had filled me in on nights like this before. I knew there would be a table laden with enough local fare to spice up a politician's election speech. And I knew there would be Baijiu! If you’ve never heard of it, please - let me enlighten you. Pronounced "Bye Joe," one swig and it's pretty much a "by jove!" affair. Baijiu translated, loosely means 'white wine' but let’s be crystal clear, this is not your average Chardy or Sav Blanc. A strong distilled spirit usually made of sorghum or other grains, this my friends, is hardcore. At 40 - 60 per cent proof alcohol it will surely knock your socks off (if you let it). Called the "Water of History" this elixir stems back thousands of years, some say as many as 7,000 years when generals and warriors waterproofed themselves with a nip of Baijiu before going into battle. These days, go to any restaurant or bar (day or night) in China and there are sure to be a few bottles stowed under the arms of patrons for good measure. You can buy it in restaurants and bars, but BYO is the preferred mode of consumption. Usually, this 'national drink' is served warm or at room temperature in small ceramic bottles and then poured into teeny shot-sized cups. So, on this night, there were four large tables of 'us' and in the middle of each, copious amounts of soft drink and large bottles of beer. I spied a few of the ladies on yoghurt drinks…which I soon found out is the acceptable way to 'line the stomach' in preparation for the looming Baijiu showdown. It's customary (and sensible) to drink Baijiu with food, so as soon as the sizzling and oh so spicy dishes started appearing on the table, the fancy red genie bottle transpired. With the early morning school run on my mind, I was hesitant to unleash the genie! Not a huge beer or coke drinker, I heard James quietly ask if they had Bai Putao Jiu (grape wine) on the menu (aka this western girl's best friend). He was met with a curt shake of the head and an abrupt no (followed by an "are you crazy" look)! This place was loud and lively and no place for sipping a crisp Sav Blanc, relaxing over dinner! So! What's a girl to do? Clearly, this was to be my initiation into the great Chinese thirst quencher, scarily known as "Firewater!" It's also the biggest selling spirit in the world (largely due to China's size and humungous population). It's a clear spirit yet tastes nothing like vodka or tequila and has no resemblance whatsoever to whiskey, rumbo or scotch. Apparently there are four different styles of Baijiu and it's all down to the fragrance - one of which has been classified as a "sauce" fragrance. I'm guessing it's not tomato! Ranging from around US$10 to $1000 a bottle the quality obviously differs and there are many many different brands. 'Baijiu Moutai' is China’s official drink - it's served at state dinners and often given as a luxury gift. It was served to US President Richard Nixon on his 1972 visit to China and to this day remains a staple at Chinese State banquets; in high and low-end restaurants across the country, and in convenience stores on the sides of remote, dusty routes. Known for its distinctive smell and unique taste, some foreigners have labelled it "paint stripper" and a "liquid lobotomy!" I'll admit my palette is not the most discerning, but it was surprisingly better than paint stripper(?) and definitely gives you that immediate warm and fuzzy sensation - which I might add is much needed up north in this winter 'never never land.' So with that in mind, I braved two shots. Before we go any further, you need to know, there's a whole bottle of table etiquette that goes along with this highly valued Chinese tipple. Chinese friends and business partners maintain the importance of drinking Baijiu together is to 'build trust and form a bond.' So that means falling down after one too many swigs is not frowned upon but rather, it commands respect! (Yes, you read that right!) The host is usually the one in the direct line of this 'fire' water. Guests will toast you (often one by one) with a single shot of Baijiu. If your boss or someone senior toasts you, it's considered the height of rudeness to refuse and in China, believe me, causing a person to lose face is not something you want to mess with. When your companion's glass is empty, politely refill it, always pouring your own last. When someone else pours for you, hold your glass up with two hands, one on the bottom of the glass. (Originally, this was a smart ploy to help anyone a little 'under the weather' avoid dropping the glass.) If you think you're too drunk to hold up your glass (even with both hands) just tap your fingers on the table. Easy done. Apparently?! And no one leaves until ALL the Baijiu is gone. Yep! Every single last drop! At dinner, I notice conversation is kept to a minimum and most people spend their time on their feet, filing from one table to the next looking for a "toastee" (more often than not, the target is my slightly nervous husband). Words of prosperity and good health ring out, followed by a few loud Gan Bei or Cam Pai's - the Chinese equivalent of 'cheers'. If this is said to you, don't dally around - it's well mannered to drain your glass in one hit! Did somebody say binge drinking!? Yes you need to toughen up princess 'cause they breed them hardy up north (let's not forget we are not too far from the vodka-swilling nation of Russia). It's nothing to knock back 10 or 15 shots over lunch or dinner. Whispers tell me foreigners have a few tricks up their sleeves to avoid the boozy onslaught, like filling your cup with water or accidentally tossing it over your shoulder as you appear to gulp back your shot; your (by now, tipsy) colleagues none the wiser. Feigning a bad stomach or allergy is also said to be a water-tight excuse. So, forget about three wishes, this is the genie in a bottle that keeps on giving. Although, the next day, you may wish you hadn't unleashed the genie! I'm told the aftermath can be harsh! An age-old tradition that's not disappearing in a puff of smoke anytime soon - at least not here in downtown Xi'an. Aladdin would be proud. This is China. … [Read more...]
Life in China: A Class Act?
The wheels crunched over the broken bitumen as we rolled into the driveway. I was in a fairly unremarkable area of Xi'an with a few large iron gates looming down at me….no sign of a 'school' anywhere to be seen. Somehow, I had agreed (as you do on an adventure in China) to come and see a classroom of kids who were reportedly in "need" of an English teacher. In this instance, my new found 'bestie' in Xi'an - the local English speaking doctor we'd become acquainted with (a little too much for my liking over Christmas) had his sights set on accelerating my career as a budding teacher of all things 'western.' He - clearly more convinced of my talents than I - seems to have rounded up all his friends in need of English lessons. Um, yes. If you're a regular reader of this blog, by now you'll know I am not an English teacher, let alone a teacher of any sorts, by any stretch of the fertile imagination! A journalist, yes! One who hopefully has a reasonable command of the English language, but teacher…..this is not my area of expertise. Still…. here in China, at local schools like this, it's clearly not about the number of qualifications you've chalked up. Don't get me wrong, there are plenty of 'professional' teachers lured from the western world who are here in an experienced expat capacity, expertly pouring their knowledge into the kids across Xi'an. Some of them have become expat friends (who, should I choose to accept my mission, I will surely be hitting up for some fast tips!) But these schools I'm being sought after for are... a little different. Banging on the iron clad gate, my American counterpart (who I would replace) and I, waited for someone to come and welcome us into the meld. What lay before me, I'll admit, was unanticipated. In 2007 I went to Kenya, Africa to help out at an orphanage and as you'd imagine saw some pretty impoverished sights. First impressions and this 'school' had a surprisingly familiar feel. An old housing block divided into several small rooms, concrete floors, the bare bones. Little about it resembled a school as we know it in the western world or in fact the many state of the art schools in Xi'an. I soon discovered it would just be four children, aged ten that needed my attention. Quiet relief swept over me that it wasn't an entire class of rambunctious kids I would need to tackle with words. This was a Waldorf school - in the loosest sense of the term. A globally alternative education movement, founded by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner. This tiny nondescript block is where one woman is hoping to bring the educational philosophy of free, morally responsible, and integrated individuals equipped with a high degree of social competence to a small group of budding students. Hats off to her for making it happen, no doubt with little in the way of financial help. A few minutes into the class and I had to smile - the way these kids were learning was exactly how I was being taught Chinese. I could relate. Their English probably slightly superior to my Chinese….which meant we were going to be pretty limited on conversation. Nonetheless, I was advised not to speak Chinese at all in the class. (Because of course the thought had crossed my mind!) For the next hour and a half it was all about listening, repeating, singing, games and cutting and pasting…..pretty straightforward for a mum of a four year old! But still I felt slightly panicked at the thought of trying to hold these kids' attention, especially with my woeful warbling which is normally reserved for home and home alone. What if they are just bored senseless by this strange blonde foreigner with an Aussie twang, dressed like an Eskimo, standing awkwardly in front of them? The class room was a small rectangular room. probably a quarter the size of a regular classroom with about five heavy wooden desks and a blackboard. Simplicity at its best. It was also minus 4 and there was NO heating. Having swapped our boots for slippers at the door (had I known I would've surely brought my trusty, warm furry Uggs!) I was kindly lent a pair of slippers that were comfy, but by no means toasty. For parts of the 1.5 hour class, to my horror, the door was left wide open! (Repeat, it's minus 4!) Now I'm obviously not a hardy winter person, so it took all my strength to ignore the fact that I couldn't feel my feet and focus on the words 'monster, ghosts, witches'… all part of the day's theme, "I am scared, I am not scared." (About now, I was trying very hard not to look scared!) These kids were obviously un-phased by the chilly learning environment - equipped with their puffer, jackets and fingerless gloves; as was Mr teacher in his beanie - it wasn't long before I fumbled through my bag, thanking the Gods I'd hastily thrown my hat in the bottom of my bag with gloves, at the last minute! Drifting off, I imagined myself being slowly overcome with frostbite until a small bronze bell rang out, waking me from my frozen coma. It was break time and the kids were allowed to let off some steam (or rather thaw out) and run around outside. No playground here, just a bare concrete slab and some wiry dry blades of grass poking out around the sides. The four kids brought out the toy that universally captures kid's attention. The humble yo yo... and goofed around as ten year olds do. After class I found out it was par for the course to stay for lunch with the other teacher and children. A little hesitant (did I mention being frozen to the bone) but curious, I agreed to stay. It's all party of the adventure, remember Nicole! It was (of course) Chinese local fare - rice and veges, laid out in the room next door. My American counterpart was a vegetarian so lunch on his day is devoid of meat (secretly I was kind of relieved knowing they like to devour every bit of the animal 'round these parts). There was a Chinese prayer-like chant and it was time to dig in. I spied a bottle of soy sauce on the wooden table so thought I'd add a little to my rice - this was much to the amusement of my lunch dates. I could feel all eyes on me, the kids puzzled looks said it all. I wondered if it was the way I used my fork. Some excited Chinese chatter and giggles and all was revealed. Soy sauce and rice apparently not a good mix. After lunch -- in the 'Waldorf way' we had to wash our own dishes at a long stainless sink with water that was ice-cold, verging on freezing and some liquid I can only suspect resembled dishwashing liquid. No tea towels, bowls straight back in the cupboard to drip dry. So dishes done, with a few smiles and a desperate need to get warm, I bid 'Zai Jian.' I'm weary of the task at hand but told with foreigners like myself few and far between here, they will probably struggle to get someone to teach them (or in my case 'talk' at them.) I tell myself it's all about the adventure…and maybe it's a win-win situation. Perhaps I can help these four kids a little.... whilst seeing another side to this city (winter and all). Your mission, should you choose to accept it! Would you? This is China. … [Read more...]
Life in a Chinese City – What’s it Really Like?
China! It's the country on everybody's lips. The topical talking point on the global table. But aside from being home to the world's biggest economy, what is it really like living in one of the 654 cities, outside of Beijing or Shanghai? Ask anyone who's lived in the megalopolis that is China and they'll tell you (surprisingly) that every city is different, really different. Xi'an is commonly known as a second-tier city. Even though around 200 Chinese cities have more than one million people, the only first-tier cities are Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Shenzhen - largely due to their size, economic development, infrastructure and cultural significance. I've only been here four months, but what I've witnessed so far (as a foreigner) is a city with a fascinating fusion of sheltered innocence and simplicity perched on the edge of aggressive progression. For me, it's both intriguingly exciting and at times, scarily confronting....(if not a little mind boggling and mind blowing)! It may be 2015, but here in Xi'an, North West China, people are still smoking like it's 1975. In what is most likely a win for smokers (but perhaps not for the rest of the population), smoking inside is still a perfectly normal pastime, even though it was banned a few years ago. Bars, lobbies, restaurants and often toilets are peppered with people inhaling and exhaling with vigor. I've even seen a bus driver lighting up on the school run. There are no road rules. Crash helmets are not critical, in fact they are not even considered… and the more bodies squeezed onto the back of a bike, the merrier. Traffic for the most part is manic and let's just say you could be forgiven for thinking some driver's licenses were retrieved in the bottom of a cereal box. For more on this read School Run in China. Kids, forget about singing to the tune of "Let it Go" - the temperatures might be on the chilly side up north but it's not cold enough in town for 'Frozen,' yet. You won't find Peppa Pig jumping in muddy puddles or the latest episode of Disney movie, Planes buzzing through the cinemas. Super heroes like Batman and Spiderman are not required here. Barbie is still queen of the toy kingdom and Mickey and Minnie are still prince and princess of Disney. Even old faithful, Winnie the Pooh is met with a puzzled look from locals. Roller blades reign supreme….kites are a fashionable mode of fun for kids and the good old Rubick's Cube is making a popular comeback…or perhaps it's yet to be solved in this part of the world. Forget about leaving a message on somebody's mobile phone, voice mail simply doesn't exist. Receive a missed call and the etiquette is you'll call right back - ASAP. The mobile app What's App doesn't get a mention up here, but We Chat is where it's at. A cross between Facebook and What's App everyone and anyone is on this app. Facebook, Twitter and Google are banned but Weibo and Baidu take their place. Internet is patchy and compared to the western world, notoriously slow, but the only people you'll find complaining are the pesky foreigners! You won't see people glued to their phone on the streets (just as well because cars are driven on the footpath, so it's important to keep your wits about you)! You will find Samsung's US$7 billion semiconductor plant on the city's outskirts (the single biggest inbound investment on the mainland) along with one of the largest aviation industry manufacturers in China; not to mention 50-plus universities. When it comes to being ill and calling for a doctor, forget about a course of antibiotics by mouth, here the no frills hospital "injection" is the drug of choice. That said there are pharmacies dedicated solely to medication. Rows upon rows, boxes upon boxes bearing Chinese labels are yours for the taking, including antibiotics sans prescription. On the other hand, finding good old fashioned Vicks, Panadol and cold & flu tablets is a task in itself. Got a stomach bug? Rehydration drinks are yet to be flavored. Hydralite who? Retail shops and giant shopping malls are definitely in abundance - but just because almost everything is "made in China" doesn't mean it's here on the shelves. I wrote this post on that! It's back to the basics when it comes to stocking up on cosmetics and toiletries in supermarkets. Dental hygiene is clearly priority, with rows and rows (and rows) of toothpaste and toothbrushes up for grabs; along with a plethora of shampoos and soap! Forget about anything more advanced in the beauty department. Hairspray (at least more than one or two brands), hair product, face wipes and makeup brands are still minimal. Exposure to the western world is coming, slowly but surely - with some global brands like Starbucks, McDonalds (as recently as five years ago), KFC, Haagen Dazs and designer clothing stores like Gucci, Hugo Boss and those famous high street stores H & M and Zara making themselves heard, but for the most part, Xi'an is still a city in 'big brand' lockdown… With counterfeit culprits on every corner, every cashier you meet will scan your notes through a machine to ensure it's the genuine thing! When it comes to using credit cards, most places will only take Chinese credit cards. The local fare in Xi'an, is generally a mixture of the spicy, meaty and a little greasy. Shaanxi noodles are a hot favorite and every Chinese meal inevitably ends with a big bowl of these thick noodles, (of which it is considered highly rude not to finish). The province's famous Han Bao Bao is a tasty version of the western hamburger using a pita bread type bun to sandwich a pork filling. Pigs brain, lungs, ear; lamb's stomach, sheep's blood (need I go on)...is all perfectly normal fodder for a dinner date. Let's just say nothing is off limits or left to the imagination. Western staples like cheese, bread, butter, chocolate (yes, I call this a staple), pasta, sauces, herbs etc are available (through stealth investigation) but don't expect to get more than one or possibly two brands to make your selection from. When it comes to alcohol around here, it's all about Baijiu. This is China's infamous 60 per cent proof liquid you could be forgiven for thinking was the elixir of youth or the toast of the town! It's been brewed for thousands of years and even today at every business or formal gathering, guests must individually toast the host with a shot of Baijiu… and the host must return the favour with everyone (which can make for a very tipsy host indeed - just ask my husband). More on that here! Taste buds are evolving with red wine or "Hongjiu" starting to make its presence felt, but tradition dies hard, locals still preferring to scull it in small shot glass sizes over lunch or dinner. Outside of five star establishments, here in Xi'an, white wine is still to make a name for itself and (much to my disappointment) not to be found on too many beverage lists. In this nation of tea lovers, coffee has only recently come into play and quirky "cafes" are springing up around the city bearing menus with Mocha, Cappuccinos and Lattes, but by and large don't expect low fat milk, that stuff is for the faint hearted. It's full cream or go home. Recycling is yet to make a name for itself, in fact it's non existent. The pollution can be every bit as bad as you hear and masks are as much of an accessory as a hat and gloves. You can see it, smell it and taste it. Alternatively (and strangely) it can disappear as quickly as you can click your fingers, making way for crystal clear blue skies and sparkly sunshine. Despite a burgeoning population of 8.5 million people, Xi'an is a city where daily life still remains relatively simple. A city where the past and present is rapidly colliding, creating a culture that shyly teeters on the edge of change. One foot in, one foot out - it's tradition versus modernity with every step. This is life in an ancient Chinese city. … [Read more...]
When the Christmas Tree comes down: Another Goodbye….A New Year ahead
I tentatively unlock the door...tiptoeing inside. It's past midnight and I've just made a two hour round trip weaving speedily through the darkness of town, having taken my parents to the airport on the city's outskirts. Another goodbye. This one was hard. (Who am I kidding, they're always hard. Some are just tinged with a little more heaviness than others.) I'm confident I'm not alone. At this time of the year, airports are overflowing with people coming and going. (I'll try not to go all Love Actually on you here!) But you get my drift? As they say, airports can be the happiest and the saddest of places in the world. Being left behind in a strange country always adds to the weight. It still doesn't feel like my home and yet here I am - standing in a strange airport, surrounded by unfamiliar voices, virtually meaningless signs and a way of doing things I still find a little confronting.... waving off my loved ones (throwing in a few Chinese words for good measure) like I belong here. We've just spent 25 minutes waiting behind a barricade (like a herd of cattle) guarded by a man wearing a hardhat and toting a gun before we're allowed to move through to check in. I'm not even sure I'm allowed in to this closed off area but I'm determined to get mum and dad on the plane, safely. Flying Air Asia along a similar route to the recent fateful flight means there is naturally a hint of anxiety hanging over us. Recent stories of aeroplane doors being randomly opened on China flights not helping the cause. I shove my hands in my puffer jacket pocket and force myself to grin broadly at mum and dad, as they timidly make their way through to immigration, so they know, I'm ok. Then with a wave, a last smile, and a tear, they are gone. Just like that. It takes me back to my first few months in Hong Kong when I'd just had Ava. My family had kindly come over to share the love and the load. After weeks in the intense baby bubble together, they each left one by one ...there I was standing left holding a new baby, and a bucket load of tears. This time the tears are a little more restrained as I walk back to the car with a 'driver.' I text my sister. "Safely dispatched through immigration," I say, knowing she'll be waiting for them at the other end. Home ...and there on the bench sit the remnants of mum's red wine, her lipstick marks still on the glass. The ubiquitous letter and card we always leave each other on the table with plenty of 'Thank you's' and 'I love you to the moon and back.' The Christmas tree is down and the bare house symbolic of life a little less colourful on all accounts. It's been a big couple of weeks for us all....memories have been made, laughs had, presents wrapped and unwrapped, candles blown out, a few tears....some moments more hairy than others; as together we navigated a city that's both fascinating, challenging and frustrating all at once! In bed that night I find myself reading through a piece I wrote about finishing high school and what life would hold for me. There's a distinct note puncturing each sentence - of hope for a life resembling anything but normality. Well, I certainly got that I smile to myself. Living away from home, it's a constant pull between home comforts verses adrenalin-fuelled adventures. The expat life gets you in its grip and makes you feel like you can't live without it...a limited offer, you can't miss - it teases! One day soon, you'll be back home....no doubt wondering were you ever really there at all... But for now, it's one foot in, one foot out...another 'hello and goodbye' just around the corner. As Christmas trees come down across the globe and tinsel is packed away for another year, Santa sacks folded, resolutions made (some already broken), loved ones farewelled; do you feel the energy of a new year ahead or the flatness of a fiesta finished all too soon? I'm curious, how do you cope saying goodbye to loved ones? … [Read more...]
Christmas in China: What Happens in Xi’an?
Latest column for Expat Focus... “He’s checking his list, he’s checking it twice, he’s going to find out who’s naughty or nice….." Sing it with me! "….Santa Claus is coming to tooooown!!” No pretending you don't know this one ladies and gents! It’s one of those traditional, well known and much loved songs you hear ringing out across the radio, TV and in shopping centres and schools at this time of year, every. single. year. Without fail. But whether or not Santa Claus is coming to this town? Well…..if he is, it will probably be a quick visit! Here in the middle of China, they’re a little late to the party. With less than three per cent of China's enormous population Christian, not everyone is as familiar with the likes of "Santa dashing through the snow" or "a partridge in a pear tree!" It's only more recently that many Chinese are becoming familiar with the yuletide tradition. A growing number of young people appear eager to embrace western ideals (or perhaps it's just any excuse for a celebration)! In the bigger cities of China like Beijing and Shanghai where large international communities reside, there's no doubt the level of Christmas cheer is elevated a peg or two. But what happens here in Xi'an where foreigners are few and far between? Does the birthplace of civilization get into the Christmas spirit? It's safe to say, for the most part, it's business as usual! Click here to read the rest of this article on Expat Focus. … [Read more...]
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