I have a four year old who likes toys. Ok, let's face it, is there are four year old on this planet who doesn't like a toy or three? (Cue Frozen theme song: "Let it gooooo!" Obviously followed by tormented parents hastily burying Frozen DVD in the rubbish while child sleeps.) Me? I don't have to worry about that so much….you see, the thing is, living in Xi'an - the toy department is a little on the lean side. Olaf and his mates are still a bit of an enigma for kids 'round these parts. In fact, quite a few of the latest and greatest children's toys are few and far between in much of China. There's this (easily) misguided belief that because (almost) everything is 'made in China,' it's got to be here in abundance, and no less, cheap as chips! Sadly, I'm here to bring you the bad news: that's not really the case. (Hence my recent outsourcing via US Global Mail for some Peppa Pig paraphernalia!) China might be famous as the 'factory to the world,' pumping out a myriad of goods, all bearing the 'Made in China' stamp, but (and yes I'm truly sorry to burst your bubble) that's where the love affair with homemade products seemingly ends. I'm sure things are a little different in a first tier city, so before you start saying, "Oh she's lost her marbles, I've seen Elsa and Anna kicking up a storm in downtown Shanghai!" let it be said, second tier cities are slightly less endowed in the toy department. Yes, I admit I saw Elsa last week hanging out at a local toy shop up the road. It was the first time she's graced Xi'an because for the most part, it's still good old Barbie, roller blades and China's famous "cartoon goat" all the way… And at the risk of sending you into a complete frazzle, if you're after anything more elaborate than say soap and toothpaste in the toiletries department, you'll be sorely disappointed. (OK, I may be exaggerating slightly, but trust me when I say, only very slightly!) If, like I was, you've had little to do with real China, you're probably wondering why on earth this is the case? Surely, you ponder, Chinese consumers would be open to new products, more choice, a wider variety of goods lining their shelves? Particularly if they're made right here on home soil? Right?! Wrong! If you watch the news or read the paper, it's been hard to miss the rapid rate in which China has progressed from an isolated economy into a global powerhouse. With that, we've witnessed how quickly global brands (at least those who've managed to penetrate the market) like Starbucks, McDonalds, Apple and of course the plethora of designer labels have been accepted and adopted enthusiastically by locals. In fact, China has for all intents and purposes become renowned as a country bearing the world's most avid luxury shoppers. Now that's quite a title! Hence, you can imagine my surprise, dismay, utter disappointment, when I arrived in downtown Xi'an only to discover there are quite a few gaps on the shelves when it comes to toiletries, cosmetics, toys, household items, food etc….etc. Even a desperate browse online for Christmas shopping at Amazon China was met with a distinctly rationed supply of goods. (FYI, Amazon from any other country can't deliver to China.) (Of course, being the savvy shopper that I am, we did manage to snaffle a few items from Santa, including a giant paddling pool. (It came without a pump and deflated after day one, but that's a story for another day!)) So, more than a little perplexed, I delved a little deeper, explored a little further and…'huzzah'… it all became a little clearer. For a start, ask any business-savvy person 'in the know' and they'll tell you trading in China is no straightforward task. A Forbes opinion piece last year on America's trade policy quoted: "Any corporation that wants to sell in China must not only manufacture there but bring its best technology. Then it is expected to export it back to the United States." As far as China importing American products, it's often a no go zone. This pattern has been similar for most western countries. They call it Chinese protectionism and it's very clear, China is protective about what it 'imports' into the country. So despite the fact that almost every thing you can buy is made here on Chinese soil, they are made for the 'western' market, not China…. and more often than not, never the twain shall meet. From a business point of view, China’s complex legislative and political system is difficult to navigate, especially for a brand that does not have a local partner. Many global brands have been trying for decades to capitalize on the world’s most populous nation (wouldn't you be trying to engage 1.3 billion newly cashed up consumers), but for the majority, progress has been slow. In second tier cities, it's made even harder by a lack of demand for particular products and the fact that big companies need to cultivate relationships with local government. Even if conglomerates can forge ties with China and are given the green light, multinational firms trying to woo Chinese consumers need to think outside the box or risk failing miserably. Chinese may have a penchant for luxury goods, but what's perceived as luxury is not necessarily the same as what the rest of the world covets. In China, luxury is not necessarily about price point. A large part of China is still relatively poor and for them a night out at Pizza Hut rather than a fancy 5-Star hotel can be far more appealing. A flimsy social safety net means for tens of millions of Chinese, the priority is saving for their own education, healthcare and retirement. And while consumer spending has been rising along with China's prosperity, it's done so almost in spite of an economic model geared almost exclusively toward production rather than domestic consumption. The place renowned for delivering low-cost goods to Western consumers doesn't always do the same for its own people. Apple laptops are made at a Chinese factory that grants a rebate on China's 17 per cent value added tax, as long as those computers are exported and sold overseas. Before that same machine can be sold domestically, it is first sent to Hong Kong, (an SAR of China) then returned to the mainland with a 20 per cent import tariff. It also explains why Chinese pour over the border into Hong Kong in their droves….like bees to honey - quite simply, it's cheaper! As I write this though, it seems the tide might be turning. It's been revealed from this month, China will cut import taxes on a range of overseas goods by an average of 50 per cent in an effort to boost global brands in China and also give a lift to domestic consumption in the world’s second biggest economy. (I may yet be singing "Let it Go" with the rest of the world.) Price point aside, understanding the consumer is also key and a quote I read in The Economist recently, pretty well summed it up: "In China, trying to sell Cheese is like trying to sell stinky tofu in Switzerland." So, after overcoming my initial shock…. it now makes perfect sense that I struggle to get my favorite Cadbury block of chocolate at the supermarket. Seeking approval from China is tough, persuading a nation of non-chocolate lovers even tougher! 30 years ago most Chinese had never tasted chocolate. For them it's far from a common snack (yes, feel free to call chocolate a snack!) and even today is usually reserved by the Chinese for gift giving (probably to salivating foreigners like myself!) In China, if you're lucky enough to be accepted into the retail market, it's about getting the formula right. This is a country that cares a lot about history, heritage and culture. Those companies that connect to the Chinese heritage are much more likely to prosper. Take designer brand Louis Vuitton. All LV stores carry artwork relating to the local area; that's a move that resonates well in the Chinese market. It seems Colonal Sanders is not the only one that's nailed this recipe for success. The seven secret spices may have been tweaked for the Chinese palate and it's working. In the US, KFC is dwarfed by McDonalds; in China KFC has 3300 restaurants and counting - more than three times McDonalds. On the menu there are fewer buckets of chicken wings and tasty chips, with more congee and rice porridge tempting consumers with what they know and love. Crest brand of toothpaste has also become hugely popular in China. With flavors like lemon, tea, salt and honey, I can't imagine why! But as they say (and I'm sure Crest wholeheartedly agrees) "there's no accounting for taste!" Those big brands who've dumped their existing products on the Chinese with little thought have struggled for a slice of the market. Chinese people are also known for purchasing something they can use (showcase) in public. That flash BMW you see cruising the streets or that Gucci handbag swung over his or her shoulder (Chinese men are also partial to a designer purse) are more sought after than things for the household. Home Depot, an American DIY chain struggled to crack the China market for years after trying to persuade middle class Chinese to decorate their home. Ironically, Ikea is coming to Xi'an this year….(cue fist pumps) whether it is successful remains to be seen, but so far in China they are claiming victory, with 20 plus stores. The key to their success? Localizing for the Chinese market. Check out this video! (I know where to go for a snooze.) So, by now, you're probably getting the idea, that what's made in China is not necessarily found in China, and if it is... and it's affordable, it's usually because big brands got the formula right. Of course this equation can create a slight dilemma for us expats homesick for a local fix. Plunged into a frenzy of dim sum, endless rows of toothpaste and Hello Kitty fever, what's a Waigouren (foreigner) to do? A) Suck it up B) Stock up on trips back home.... Thankfully there is a third option, with foreign businesses starting to capitalize on the growing expat market. Jinkou is just one online company that gives you instant access to those familiar brands you know and love. Hello Cheetos and Kraft Macaroni Cheese! Companies are also spotting opportunities to help out expats with private mail boxes. U.S Global Mail is one such company who recently came to me with their offer of a private mail box. You can purchase things online in the US that you can't purchase in person or online in China and have them sent to your own specific US address (not a PO Box) and then shipped right to your doorstep. With a few kids' birthdays coming up, I decided Hello Kitty had had her day and to test them out with an order for some much desired Peppa Pig items! Within a few days my box of goodies was in my own virtual private mail box. The labels were scanned so I could see what it was and I could choose the method of shipping and whether or not I wanted the parcel opened and repackaged or sent with other items I'd ordered. Not only can you use them to purchase those much craved for home staples, you can have your ordinary every day bills sent to your virtual private mailbox. We all know those pesky bank statements and forms that quickly pile up and if you move around a lot, it's easy to miss important documents, sent to old addresses. If everything is forwarded to Global Mail, they'll simply scan the item and put them in the virtual mail box for you to look at. You can then decide if you want them to open it for a closer look, send it on to you or simply dump it in the trash. For some expats it's a lifeline, allowing them to get vital medication shipped in from home. This blog post by DC Rainmaker in Paris, helps explain the lowdown. I'm incredibly happy to report, despite the often difficulties faced in getting mail in China, Peppa Pig's classroom made it right to my door! So next time you ask me if I'm shopping up a storm in China, you'll know the rather grim answer (did I mention the hotelier's quite happy about the money I'm saving?)! (Admittedly I'm still getting a retail fix every now and then at H & M and Zara, so all is not lost.) Oh and if you announce you're visiting China, you won't be surprised when I request a block or two of Cadbury's peppermint chocolate, will you! This is China. … [Read more...]
Culturally Enlightened: The Big Day Out, China Style! (Anyone for an eyeball massage?)
Living in China, I am always up for a new experience, a chance to make new memories and of course, a good story to write about! So, I rather enthusiastically agreed to go on a team building exercise with the hotelier and his well, team and their families! A day trip out to the mountains sounded idyllic…they were on my 'to do' list anyway. A peaceful bus ride out, taking in the sights …no sweat. Little did I know what lay ahead in the 13 hours of non-stop entertainment, China-style! Rewind your mind's images from that peaceful bus ride out……instead, cut to images of the 'happy bus' rolling off into the China madness with a quick round of 'rock, paper, scissors' followed by a frenzied game of hot potato! (Except in place of the potato, a soft toy in the shape of a (smiling) star.) Whoever was left holding said star when the music stopped had to perform "something" at the front of the bus, on the microphone! As I shrunk further and further into my seat, hoping this was just for the team…not the ring-ins, before I knew it, I found myself holding the 'yellow star' and being cheered loudly up to the front of the bus. Praising the lord for my small person who loves to put on a good show, I dragged her with me! What to sing to a bus load of Chinese speakers, most who wouldn't understand me in English anyway? A good old maori song of, course! This hit from my primary school days, that I've managed to hang onto in my adult life comes in handy sometimes (usually after a few too many beverages but rather more likely these days, singing up a storm with my small person in the privacy of my own home)! So, that bizarre picture there and then, really indicative of the day that lay ahead! Arriving at our destination, the base of Xi'an's famous Mt. Lishan (this is where the renowned Emperor Qin Shi Huang built his mausoleum and those amazing Terracotta Warriors to guard it) it was a toasty 32 degrees and as I looked up at the towering mountain before me, I was thankful I'd heeded the hotelier's advice and worn sneakers and shorts. What to do before we start the journey? A three-legged race, of course. (Careful not to be mowed down by the numerous tourist coaches flanking our race track!) A quick toilet stop (squat of course, byo tissues) and we were off! The walk started out as you'd expect… pleasant, calm, shaded…plenty of lush, green trees… Naturally the further we went, those paved steps got steeper and steeper and steeper, with every turn - just when you thought the top had to be in sight, another trek up calf-busting stairs. (Really wishing I'd stretched as opposed to a three-legged race!) The small person did remarkably well, motivated onwards by mum's rash promise of an ice-cream…little did I know, from about the half way point, there would be stalls with all sorts of ice blocks, ice-creams and much needed cold drinks (including beer) and eggs! (Thank you, Thank you!) After each set of stairs, there was usually a platform of some description to rest, where you might find an important statue, a carving, a monument…relating to the significant history of the mountain. Some people were selling pictures…others palm reading….and then this……caught me by surprise. Yep, that right there's a target range. Hire your bow and arrow and shoot. At what? Oh, that's just the Prime Minister of Japan. (Nothing PC about that really.) (Again, a story for another day!) Quick look at the view amongst the bow and arrow firing and onwards and upwards we went… Admittedly, it was becoming a bit of a tough slog by now….small person being piggy backed by daddy…in between the much needed pit stops! I really take my hat off to this lady…..I love my heels, but this is taking glamour to a whole new level! (Calls for a hash tag, #Glamourhiking) Finally we reach the top! Qualifying as the third team up! (Did I mention it was a race?!) More cool drinks and ice blocks….. and this spectacular view! A twenty minute pit stop to catch our breath, before making our way partly back down the mountain for lunch at this amazing spot - a farmer's house known in English as "Bushy Beard!" (Mind the chickens on the way out!) From here, it was (thankfully) a bus ride down the mountain to the Huaqing Hot Springs. Now, I've only really ever been to the hot springs in Rotorua, New Zealand, as a kid on our annual Christmas holiday - mostly they were mud pools and it didn't involve immersion! Naturally, I was curious about what to expect. These hot springs are quite new to Xi'an so the hotel exuded a modern, serene spa-type feeling. We were ushered into changing rooms and the fun began. No privacy here, ladies and gents…changing into swimmers with the rest of the 'team' and the changing room attendant looking on, impatiently! Ahem. I'm no prude, but the nakedness presenting itself in all manners around me, had me and small person desperately trying to fix our gazes firmly on the floor! (Hence, there are no photos!) Once in said swimmers, special shoes were given and mine whisked away. Realising, I would be the only westerner in a 'bikini' while others were wearing more appropriate bike-pant-type attire; in a futile attempt at modesty I attempted to put my shorts and t-shirt on (at least to walk out to the pools) but was sternly told to get them off!! They were to be locked in my locker! Pronto! Then, escorted to a shower (with several onlookers) we had to quickly wash ourselves down, before being plunged into the um, springs! The hotelier had an equally harrowing experience with the changing room attendant IN the shower with him (whilst naked) handing the shower gel. (Ahem.) Phew! We make it into the hot springs (I've managed to secure a towel around me) and we are met with a series of undercover square pools each with supposedly different health benefits. One was enticingly blood red, one was filled with giant cucumber slices, one was ridiculously freezing (although quite refreshing given by now it was 34 degrees and all the other pools were set at 38 plus!) Entering any of these pools, discreetly, nigh impossible -- everyone keen to check out the "foreigners" in their weird bikini/surfer shorts, who clearly thought they were off for a day at the beach! A man who appeared to be specifically on hand to straighten shoes, hovered about while we hung our towels up and slipped our rubber shoes off. Ava was given a floating ring and from there on in was happy as a pig in mud (cucumber). Meantime, the hotelier and I tried to stifle our giggles at the 'unusual' situation. We were given an hour and a half to absorb the tranquility. Sun lounges were dotted around, so you could relax (or sleep as we discovered most were). We later discovered some outdoor hot pools, much more to our Aussie sun-loving taste. After we had successfully turned ourselves into shrivelled prunes and inhaled the serenity (and dehydrated ourselves in the extreme heat) there was more relaxing to come! We were chaperoned upstairs into the 'massage/movie' room where 18 plush brown velvet chairs awaited us ….as we've now come to expect, many were fast asleep….and on the TV, a national geographic type program about rodents, played loudly. Down the hall some of the team had opted to play 'mahjong' - China's famous board game. Not the hotelier and I - we'd put our hand up for a massage, naively thinking we'd be taken into a private room….but alas this 'full' body massage was to be done right here amongst the masses…. I won't lie, it was quite good, especially after a thousand metre hike (apart from the part where my eyeballs and inside of my ears were massaged?!) And if I could just switch off the snoring sounds opposite me, the noisy Chinese game show now blasting out from the TV and the sheer horror that my bottom was being shaken in front of, God only knows who)! Successfully pruned, prodded pummelled and fuelled with a glass of warm Fanta, our next stop, dinner! This was a very authentic Chinese restaurant, with pretty red lanterns swinging in the breeze. We were ushered into two separate dining rooms which wore the hallmarks of the ancient chinese style homes in the north of China, including a giant, wooden bed. (Apparently due to the extreme cold and 'paper' windows, these beds used to have fires underneath to keep them warm!) Note: Now successfully used for children's play area. This was a distinctly northern style feast (when I say northern, I'm talking close to Russia!) although it included the ubiquitous pig's ear, not to mention an entire chicken, including it's head in this enormous bowl of soup (which was actually pretty tasty) and my favorite Xi'an style burger 'Man Tou'….very doughy bread with pork! Dessert involved a very sticky rice (which by the way, the Chinese used to use as a substitute for concrete in ancient times)! Who knew! The elusive bottle was perched on the table, we eyed suspiciously as Baijiu - but it turned out to be sweet rice wine, served in thimble sized glasses, followed by a glass or two of local beer. All tuckered out….what better way to finish off the day than with a spot of skipping!! Team building day - a success! Definitely 'out of the ordinary' but a bucket-list load of fun! This is China! Visiting Xi'an…..and want to recreate this fun experience for yourself! Get cultural in China! Where: Mt Li Shan or Shan Li, Lintong District, Xi'an Lunch: “Mao Hu Zi” (bushy Beard) Huaqing Aegean International Hot Spring Resort & Spa Dinner:“Lishan Shi San Hua” Proud to share this post on Seychelle Mama's monthly #MyExpatFamily series … [Read more...]
Shanghai Shenanigans: A Weekend in the Paris of the East
It might be called the 'Paris of the East' but to me, back then, it was the wild west! I first visited Shanghai from Hong Kong about four years ago. My initial impressions? 'Wow! So this is the real China?!' It was big, it was busy, it was bedlam! And this was explicitly apparent the minute we exited the airport. At one point, I thought getting to our hotel was going to be a miracle in itself, as we watched a fight (of sorts) break out at the taxi rank….a woman clearly peeved at the driver (for reasons unbeknown to us non-Chinese speaking foreigners) had plonked herself and her suitcase promptly in front of his taxi (at the front of the line) and refused to budge! Of course, in what I now know is 'the Chinese way,' shouting ensued while we stood there with our eyes boggling, waiting for someone to call a stop to it! In true Chinese fashion, it took quite some time. Once said suitcase and woman were removed and we were tucked up in our own taxi - driving to the hotel was another experience to behold; swerving in and out of lanes, we edged dangerously close to fellow drivers, I thought we might actually see what was on the back seat of neighboring cars. It was the first time I realized the "which ever is bigger, gets right of way!" rule existed -- loudly and proudly, at that! Did I mention, that includes people? Despatched at our hotel, a little flustered, but unscathed, we remerged a little later to find burgeoning crowds, flashing neon signs and a city with attitude. Crossing the road was like doing an obstacle course! This time though, after nine months living in north western China, as we touched down in Shanghai and edged through the streets, I nearly cried at the sophistication…a city, a real city!! No disrespect Xi'an -- I am developing fond feelings for you with each new day, but Shanghai you had me at Hello! As the hotelier likes to tell me (often) "It's all relative!" Suddenly things seemed quite (low and behold) orderly…. the driving barely producing a bead of sweat on my raised brow, the beeping lowered to a dull roar…. and crossing the road, pretty much a non event for this China slicker. Cars weren't using the footpath as an alternative route and crossing on the green light, perfectly acceptable. Admittedly I'm partial to a big, strapping city, but the difference I saw in Shanghai this time was palpable… and I'm quite sure it wasn't the city that had changed. What a difference a day nine months makes. The contrast between first and second tier cities is becoming all too glaringly obvious, but that's a story for another day. Today, let's focus on the largest city in China and one of the biggest in the world with 24 million people! (Yep you read that right!) 24 million! Trivial fact: it even has the largest bus system in the world… Based on this alone, it rightly deserves a little attention, don't you think? Sassy and futuristic with its fancy, modern sky scrapers, I kinda felt like I should be in a Batman movie as we strolled along the famous Bund. And let it be known I'm not alone….Shanghai and its famous 'TV tower' have been featured in many box office hits…including Mission Impossible and Godzilla! (It's the strange bubble-type "Meet George Jetson" tower on the right!) Set in the nation's south east, this former fishing village was once called 'Hudu' (hence the character for 'Hu' on Shanghai license plates) and is now not only the biggest city in china, but the nation's financial hub and the world's busiest container port (followed by Singapore, Shenzhen and Hong Kong). Shanghai - meaning 'top of the sea' - has over the years, emerged as a vibrant blend of cultures encompassing the modern, the traditional, the western and the oriental. Brief history lesson: the Shanghai International Settlement originated following the defeat of the Qing dynasty by the British Empire in the first Opium War (1839–1842) which saw the famous Treaty of Nanking signed. This saw Shanghai opened up to foreign trade for the first time. American and French involvement followed hot on the heels of the British, with distinct areas of settlement for the French in the south…known as the famous French Concession. All of which has given the city a rich Western cultural heritage. Is it like Hong Kong? You may well ask. Yes and no. Despite the obvious western influence in many of the buildings like this very colonial-style architecture along the Bund, and as sophisticated as it is when compared with other parts of China, it's still very evident this is mainland China. As well as glittering skyscrapers as far as the eye can see, there are also quaint little streets reminiscent of old China. Ah hello, washing is hanging out to dry in the street, literally! In the malls, touches of the west brush the east. Those big global brands that have forged a slice of the pie in China, making themselves heard amongst the racket of local retailers. This is People's Square where the likes of McDonalds, Zara, Starbucks and Apple can be found (not to mention a barrage of brazen hawkers trying to sell cheap watches and copy hand bags….oh and other shall we say, 'questionable' things.) To this day, every Saturday, hundreds of Shanghainese parents assemble in People’s Park for the Shanghai marriage market - in their hot little hands, resumes of their unwed children to negotiate potential hook-ups!! Speaking of 'hook ups' (in the friendly sense) if I thought I could use this opportunity to practice my Chinese, I was sadly mistaken. In Shanghai they speak a very distinct dialect - Shanghainese. Apparently Mandarin speakers can only understand about fifty per cent of this language! Um…so you can imagine my chances of understanding or being understood! Say no more. Thankfully, many of the locals speak English, now mandatory in school from first grade. Oh and if you have young kids, there's one of China's great (vintage-style) theme parks nearby! Just quietly, I'm not sure who was having more fun here! What else to see when visiting China's most cosmopolitan city? Here's a quick list for you: Former French Concession - Today, tree lined streets boasting quirky cafes, restaurants and shops make for a great place to stroll through and explore. Xin Tian Di - With its Shikumen architecture reminiscent of old Shanghai, this is a car free area with narrow alley ways to explore the boutiques, cafes and bars. It is considered one of the first lifestyle centers in China where “yesterday meets tomorrow!" The Bund - Walk along the riverside promenade and take in the stunning city sights. Fuxing Park - In the former French Concession it was once the largest park in Shanghai. 10 ha. in size it's designed in French style, with a lake, fountains, covered pavilions, and flowerbeds. Check out the early morning dancers, card players and mahjong enthusiasts. The Oriental Pearl Tower - Shanghai's most famous landmark….468 metres high, it has a revolving tea house and sight seeing platform. The largest 'ball' can hold 1600 people! Nanjing Road - Shanghai's premier shopping area - hit this part of Shanghai for everything from big name designer brands to local silk, jade and embroidered goods. Tian Zi Fang - Originally part of the French Concession, a cute neighborhood full of small art galleries, craft shops, and cafes. The Shanghai World Financial Centre - Has an observation deck on 97th floor, where you can get a fantastic view of the cityscape and the Oriental Pearl Tower. Bund SightSeeing Tunnel - One of the city's top tourist attractions and one of its strangest. Bizarre, triply audio-visual effects play as you travel in an automated car 'into the core of the Earth' under the Huangpu river. The Shanghai Maglev - One of the fastest passenger trains in the world. Traveling at about 270 miles per hour, this train is the adult equivalent of the theme park ride! Water Town: Whether it's Zhujiajiao, Xikang or Nanxun, there are quite a few mini Venices close to Shanghai that you can take a day trip to. This is the Paris of the East. This is China! … [Read more...]
Travelling to China: Top Ten Things to Pack
So the holiday's approved, ticket's booked and all you need to do is throw a few things in the suitcase and you're ready to face the music err mayhem, madness and (of course) magic….that is mainland China! I thought it only fair that I give you a heads up before you actually land, because there are some things you really don't want to leave home without. Here's a brief list of those things my fellow China troopers and I have deemed 'non negotiable' packing items. 1) Tissues When I say tissues, I don't mean that big box sitting on the dresser beside your bed! I'm talking about the small packets….the size of your phone…and as many as you can, without being questioned in customs about your Kleenex motives! It's no exaggeration to say that many public toilets in China won't have toilet paper. Why? Rumour has it, people like to take the toilet rolls home. Yes! You read that right…stash them in their handbags and run; which as you can imagine, results in a bit of a dilemma if you arrive unprepared, sans tissue. Trust me, there is nothing more frustrating that waiting in a rather smelly queue for about ten minutes only to find your cubicle has been cleaned out of the good stuff. You'll no doubt be struggling with the whole idea of squatting (especially if you're a woman) let alone the lack of paper. Occasionally you might find someone 'selling' it at the entrance. Your best bet though, just bring the tissues. Oh, a little tip - the sewerage system for many public toilets is fairly antiquated, you won't be able to flush your prized tissues down the toilet. Just put it in that little basket on the side (with your eyes closed). 2) Hand Sanitiser Just as many public toilets won't have toilet paper, they also won't have soap and/or the taps won't work. Let's just say hygiene is not always China's strong point. More often than not, out and about, gloves are not used in food preparation and things are just not cleaned to the standard you might expect. So, if you want to avoid running to the local doctor with a 'Du Zi Teng' (sore tummy)….hand sanitizer is your best friend. Use it at all times. 3) Medication If for some reason you forget to use said hand sanitizer and that bad tummy strikes - you're going to need some Buscopan/Immodium or the equivalent. And let's not forget, a simple change in the type of food you're eating can also cause things to go a little haywire. You can try going to the local pharmacy to get something….(there are plenty) but unless you're fluent in Chinese, I don't like your chances. And if you do, by some sheer miracle, manage to get something (even from a local doctor) it's usually not going to be the sort of remedy you would find at home. My whole family got struck down at Christmas and let's just say I have never wanted my local GP from home, more. Needless to say, my next trip to Hong Kong was with an extra suitcase just for medication! Ordinary painkillers, antihistamines, cough medicine, antibiotics etc are also handy to have in your bag. Actually make that a travel prerequisite. And if you take prescribed medicines, bring sufficient for your entire stay. Going to a Chinese hospital as a foreigner is no easy task. BYO MEDICATION. 4) Chinese Phrases It would be pretty handy if you could bring some Chinese with you… just a few phrases might do the trick….nothing too fancy. Here's a few to help you get by. Hello - Nihao - 'Knee How' Goodbye - Zai Jian - 'Zie Jee-an' Thank you - Xie Xie - 'Shear Shear' Where is the toilet - Ce suo, zai na li - 'Te Sor zie nar lee' I would like to drink coffee - Wo yao he kafei - 'Wo yow her Ka Fay' I would like a white wine/beer - Wo yao he Bai Putaojiu/pijiu - 'Wo yow her Bye Poo Tow jee-o/Pee jee-o' Please call me a taxi - Qing gei wo da dianhua chuzuche - 'Ching gay wor da dee-anne hwa ChooZooCher' Please take me to… - Qing dai wo qu…. 'Ching Die Wor Choo' Can I have the bill please - Mai dan! - 'My dan' How much is it? Duo shao qien - 'Door show (as in cow) chee-en' Of course, always have the address of your hotel written down in Chinese characters and keep it on you at all times. 5) Face Mask No doubt, unless you live on another planet, you will have heard about China's infamous pollution? Some people like to pass it off as 'fog'…ahem...no. Of course on many days it is in fact quite pleasant, blue skies and all (I promise)! But yes, I have to be honest…more often than not that haze is not fog. There's a fair chance whichever of China's glorious 656 cities you find yourself in, there will be pollution. And I'm not just talking about a little bit of smog, this is hardcore. You can see it, smell it, taste it….your eyes water, your throat hurts. A mask will make things that much sweeter. Don't worry, you won't feel silly wearing one because the majority of the population is also masked up. (They even make pretty ones.) Fight the pollution! 6) Visa! Yes, it's pretty obvious, but while there are a few passport holders that don't need a visa to enter China for a couple of weeks (like Singapore, Brunei and Japan) most of us will not get into China without one. Be warned: the process of getting one is also quite laborious. You need to go through the Chinese Embassy or consulate in your area. Prepare your documents at least a month before your trip. As they like to say, get all your ducks in a row! There are several different types of visas, so do your homework and work out which one is right for you. Just do it with plenty of time to spare. 7) ATM Card A card you can use in ATMs overseas to get cash out is encouraged (warning not all cards will work in Chinese ATMs.) In many parts of China, most foreign credit cards are not accepted (bar the occasional western brand stores like my fav, Zara or H & M (phew! wipes brow)! Unless you're in a five star hotel or a major city, you are better off using an ATM to get the local currency (RMB) out. (I've even got a currency converter in the side bar for you.) If you're bringing a credit card, let your bank know in advance, so they don't block it when they see unusual transactions outside your home country. In China cash is king! Psst… Don't be alarmed when they scan said cash to check it's the genuine thang! This is normal. 8) Toiletries China is big on toiletries, but essentially we're just talking the basics…especially outside the 1st tier cities like Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou. While you may find rows and rows of toothpaste and shampoo for your buying pleasure, you'll be hard pressed to find more than one brand of hairspray or things like make up wipes, deodorant or razors. Even dental floss is an enigma around these parts. Ladies, tampons are also hard to locate given most women use sanitary pads in Asia, so come prepared. Bring plenty of moisturizer with you. If you're up north as it's very, very dry (even for you blokes), I'm talking lounge lizard type skin! Not kidding. Sunscreen is also advisable…..unless you want to try the Asian way and wield an umbrella to shield you from the sun. (Just don't poke anyone's eye out!) 9) VPN Ahhh the good old VPN….a Virtual Private Network or as I like to call it VPS - Virtual Protector of Sanity. If you need to stay connected during your stay, you may like to get one of these lined up before you travel. The Great Fire Wall is well and truly established, meaning China has very strict internet censorship with many sites you may take for granted, blocked! Not sure how a VPN works? Check out this post I recently wrote on VPNs. 10) SIM Card/Adaptor Of course most countries will use different types of power points. In China, they use two types of plug sockets (which are often actually in the one power point). The two round pin like in the EU and the three prong flat angle blades like in Australasia. (Mind you some of my Australian plugs simply won't fit in!) You also might want to think about saving on global roaming costs and buying a SIM card in China. It's quite easy to get and relatively cheap (50 to 100RMB). There are two major phone companies…China Unicom and China Mobile. If you live in certain countries like the US, you'll need to get your phone unlocked, enabling it to accept a different sim card. Most of all bring your sense of humour!! China is a weird and wonderful adventure for the taking… be sure to soak it all up and remember, though things might seem a little different to that which you know, it's all part of an amazing experience. On that note, I'll leave you with a famous quote from Eleanor Roosevelt. “The purpose of life is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience.” This is China. … [Read more...]
China’s Paradise on Earth – Hangzhou! Is it Worth a Visit?
If you do an internet search for the top places to visit in China, more often than not, Hangzhou will score a place in the top ten. Before last weekend, I didn't know too much about the city, but given Marco Polo promptly declared Hangzhou "beyond dispute the finest and noblest place in the world" I figured I was safe to add it to my list! Oh and in a double (must visit) whammy the city also has a song written about it that famously says, "There is paradise in heaven, on earth there is Hangzhou." Clearly this is a city with quite a reputation to uphold…. While we're based in Xi'an, we're ticking off the bucket list, trying to see as many interesting places in this wide, extremely diverse land as possible; so with the most reasonable airfares on a national holiday, first cab off the rank was indeed Hangzhou. A short one hour 45 minute flight, south east of Xi'an, Hangzhou is also a 45 minute train ride from China's metropolis, Shanghai… and it shows! After spending almost eight months in Xi'an, there's definitely a different feel to this comparable city of eight million. Once the capital of China (during the Song Dynasty) today it's the capital of the Zhejiang province. Without doubt, Hangzhou's exposure to a metropolitan city has paved the way for a more cosmopolitan influence. Whether that's a good or a bad thing, I'll let you be the judge. (Mind you, the ginormous Forever 21 clothes store, sleek, shiny Apple store and friendly uber driver, kind of had me at hello.) Compared to Xi'an - which I suspect largely due to its location in the North West has been isolated from other major cities - English was noticeably more present in Hangzhou, driving less chaotic (with less beeping) (perhaps that's because there seemed to be much fewer bikes on the roads) and on first observation, there seemed to be a lot less street food stalls. You could say, in looks, the two cities are almost chalk and cheese. Xi'an boasts an unmatched historical charm, with its ancient monuments, perfectly landscaped streets and manicured tree-lined pathways; while the more subtropical Hangzhou has a rugged, overgrown feel, with its weeping willows draping themselves in wildly carefree fashion across the city. Little streams and rivers wind through the city with cute arched stone bridges; and the city itself is wrapped with mountainous ranges. A 30 minute drive from the airport to the city, once we were safely deposited to our hotel, we did what all the brochures suggested and hightailed it to the city's pride and joy, Xihu or 'West Lake.' We found a sprawling six sq kilometre freshwater lake with scenery that has no doubt impressed over the years - so much so, it's been immortalized by countless poets and artists, and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Technically, there are 'ten scenes' at the West Lake…..each with its own story to tell. We got dropped off at the "Broken Bridge" and enjoyed a leisurely stroll over it shuffled shoulder to shoulder with a thousand other holiday makers. Note to self: attempting any tourist attraction on a public holiday in China is probably not the smartest move. (Especially as a foreigner where your chances of getting mobbed by the paparazzi are considerably higher!) That said, we were not to be deterred! If 'Brangelina' can do it, so can we! For a very brief moment, we considered hiring a boat with the hundreds of other boating enthusiasts to row around parts of the lake or more preferably, one we could power ourselves - but to be honest, there seemed to be a lot of people on the lake going nowhere, fast! We eventually got on one of the bigger ferry boats for RMB 55 (kids under 6 free) which had us motoring to one of the lake's islands in a jiffy. Lush green and picturesque with its pretty flowers, I'm pretty sure on a slightly less chaotic day it would be quite the peaceful haven to wander through. We later found out this is known as the Three Pools Mirroring the Moon - the largest island on the lake. From here you can see the famous Leifang Pagoda. If you want to get up close and personal, you can take the boat across and climb to the top for RMB40 -- but, given we now live next door to a Pagoda, we opted to gaze at this marvelous monument from a distance! (I'm told it's at its best like this anyway!) So after meandering around for a good 45 minutes, the shoulder to shoulder fight for space on the footpath all got a bit sweaty and we stared at the map for about ten minutes trying to work out how to get off the island! We eventually found the right boat that took us back to the foreshore! We spotted the 'Jazz Bar' on our map and spent about half an hour trying to locate this little refuge. We eventually found a little watering hole with an outdoor garden where we could grab a beer for 15 kuai and put our feet up. It's no inner city trend-setter, but definitely hit the spot and quenched our thirst. On advice, we then walked about ten minutes inland to Wushan Square. Here there is a town square and a narrow lane way with some cute market stalls, selling all sorts of weird and wonderful local trinkets. I'd like to say it was worth it, but if you're strapped for time, I think you could probably give this spot a miss. Although you do get to feast your eyes on this marvelous oriental gem. Waking up the next day to an extremely hazy, sopping wet day meant our trip to the famous Longjin Tea plantation was out of the question (forgot my gumboots), but I've heard it's well worth the visit, so try to factor it in to your plans. This region is famous for one of the most prized and expensive teas in China, Dragon Well green tea and you can pick and sample it here in spectacularly serene surroundings. Instead, we went back to a different part of the paradisiacal lakeside for a late afternoon wander (and hopefully a beverage or two)… Weary of heading back to more of the same, we were pleasantly surprised to find this little waterfront sanctuary (on Hubin Road) at sunset was a hive of activity. Pagoda's were lit up, mountains shone and oriental boats glistened as they chugged across the lake. Basking in the glow, West Lake really did look quite heavenly. The city's shopping hub is very close by, so we ambled through to get a feel for Hangzhou's city centre. Modern and quite sophisticated you get the feeling this isn't just a typical Chinese city but one that has a sense of purpose and is progressing at a rapid pace. I'm not quite sure it's 'paradise on earth' but if you pick your moment, it's definitely a little pocket of bliss to hibernate from the mainland madness. So, is it worth the trip? If you're visiting China, I definitely think it's worth adding to the itinerary. You could potentially cover it with an overnight stay. Live in China? I'd recommend a day trip the next time you're in Shanghai. Living in Shanghai? Of course it's a great weekend escape. A few tips: As with most Chinese cities, if you don't speak Chinese and/or know the geography of the city, hailing a taxi can be a fruitless exercise. Hangzhou is no different. Use Uber taxis. We found ourselves stranded in the middle of a busy square on an even busier public holiday with a toddler fast approaching 'witching hour' - unable to get a cabbie to agree to take us (that foreign thing), we reverted to Uber taxis. Whilst the driver couldn't speak any English or understand our Chinese (why is it in a 'situation' it's far easier to use your 6th grade French!!??) he soon tracked us down and came running through the street to find us. Now that's service! (Oh Uber, please come to Xi'an!) For first-timers, my suggestion is stay by the lake, if you can. There are quite a few hotels along the waterfront including the Hyatt and Wyndham and plenty in the cheaper category. Of course, where ever you are in China, be sure to have your hotel written down in Chinese to show the driver. I keep harping on about it, I know...but do try to avoid visiting any attraction in China on a public holiday. Oh, and don't forget your tissues and hand sanitizer! This is China. … [Read more...]
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