It was always going to be a display of grand proportions! Beijing had been practicing for months in the lead up to V-Day Celebrations -- the 70th anniversary of the end of WWII and victory over Japan. China's government had declared September 3rd a one-off public holiday. (In true China style, Friday and Saturday were also given as holidays, with a make-up day for the nation on Sunday!) A grand military parade was to be held on Thursday - the first of such magnitude in a decade. 12,000 troops….rolling tanks, marching soldiers and aerial displays, the majestic order of the day. A monumental showcase of China's military strength. And believe you me, it didn't disappoint. I was in two minds about whether this was the best time to visit Beijing for the very first time? We were told much of the city would be in lockdown for three days. Our hotel was right in the heart of this event….a stone's throw from the famous Tiananmen Square and Forbidden City. I was feeling a bit miffed I wouldn't be able to stand on these sacred spots, but the journo in me was also a tiny bit excited to witness such a moment in China's history. In the 10 day lead up to the celebrations, a lot of things were banned in China. On the naughty list - drones and any activities involving lightweight helicopters, gliders, hot-air balloons and aerostats. VPN's (much to my horror) were cracked down on, making internet connection increasingly difficult… Beginning August 20, Beijing restricted the use of private vehicles on the city’s roads to every other day, based on even and odd numbered license plates. And of course, companies in major polluting industries were suspended. The airing of too many entertainment shows on local television was also discouraged, in favour of dramatic war-time heroics. A bid to rally the troops, so to speak and instill national pride. On the parade day itself, six of China's CCTV channels were showing continuous footage of the parade. Beijing’s two airports were shut for the parade. The skies an unusually brilliant shade of bright powder blue!! (A pollution-free Beijing is, it seems, possible if you know the right people!) There were also 2.8 million flower pots….“featuring themes of peace and victory.” Technically, the Chinese call it “The 70th anniversary of Chinese People’s Anti-Japanese War and the World Anti-Fascist War Victory Commemoration Day” There's no denying, since living on Chinese soil, I've noticed there's a definite air of tension surrounding the Japan-China relationship. (Lets not forget the shooting range half way up the mountain here in Xi’an.) Not to mention word on the street. China's history books paint a story of a nation that has failed to acknowledge and apologize for wartime atrocities. Even today much of the younger generations strongly believe there is a need for Japan to face up to its past. Dr Su Hao from the China Foreign Affairs University said: “To the public, the parade is an important event that needs to be commemorated. So to them, I think that through the parade, it also shows pride in the nation and it rallies the people. So from this point of view, they understand and support the event.” Other media described today as a deliberate message from President Xi Jinping that China is strong and has overcome past difficulties. President Xi Jinping declared, he's presenting the People’s Liberation Army as a force for peace and regional stability. Diplomatic ties between the two historic foes Japan and China have again been strained since late 2012 following a territorial dispute over uninhabited islands in the East China Sea. The spat led to large-scale anti-Japan protests across China and the boycott of Japanese goods. I’m told if you were a local seen in a Japanese car…all hell would break loose. Consequently, sales of Japanese cars slumped by around 50 per cent. Ironically though, with a few days off, many Chinese are heading up to Japan to go shopping! So perhaps still waters don't run too deep, on the street at least. In a speech to US Congress last month, Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe expressed "deep repentance" over Japan's role in World War II but stopped short of issuing his own apology. This is the first such parade to be reviewed by China's current President Xi Jinping…and it's said, he was resolutely determined to execute it well. Many world leaders were invited to the spectacle…and many accepted the invitation, including Russian President Vladimir Putin, leaders from South Korea, Pakistan, Myanmar and Vietnam and former UK Prime Minister Tony Blair. A number of Western leaders were conspicuous in their absence. Thousands of troops from other countries were brought in - including soldiers from Mexico and Fiji..to march with China's PLC. Beijing created four “military parade villages” – including one with a replica of Tiannanmen Gate — on the outskirts of the city, where the troops and military vehicles were deployed for parade rehearsals. Remarkable to watch. An interesting time to be in Beijing. An extravaganza! This is China. … [Read more...]
Eight Cultural Taboos in China You Really Ought to Know….
I’ve been skulking around China for the best part of 12 months now….and while it’s just a drop in the ocean as far as hardcore 'China' immersion goes, I am starting to piece a few bits of the puzzle together (yeh - just a few, it's a mighty big puzzle). A lot of the ‘a ha’ moments come from just being here….living it. At first, it's like a cultural tidal wave - your brain struggles to keep up with the glaringly different way of life washing over you. Everything from the values, to the lifestyle, the food, even society as a whole rushes at you, utterly consuming (and often mind boggling) different to anything you know. You can't run from it, you just have to embrace it. With time and more conversations with locals, new Chinese friends and a Chinese teacher, who’s not just guiding me through the language but also highlighting cultural tales of the ever changing Zhong Guo (China) along the way…I'm becoming more aware of what makes this fascinating country tick. The more I learn, the more my thirst for knowledge about this gigantic beast intensifies. One thing I can tell you without hesitation is, at the very heart of this nation is folklore. While China evolves in the public eye as a global powerhouse, it's still a country that’s very core is built on confucianism, legend and superstitions, all of which run deep. Over thousands of years they've rippled through the veins of one generation after another, entrenching themselves firmly in the nation's psyche. Some of those ancient beliefs are taken extremely seriously while others are told in jest. While many of these beliefs stem from legendary tales, other superstitions revolve around numbers and the language itself. Given that most Chinese words have four different meanings, a seemingly innocent word has a high chance of sounding like something else, that's errr, not so innocent. Take the number four which is 'si', you may know 'si' also means 'death'...hence many places in Asia are devoid of anything relating to 4. No 4th floor, no 4th seat, no 4th button etc..etc. It's no laughing matter! But what does give me a giggle are the few proverbs that to this day remain part of society, despite their obvious absurdity. One of my favorites has to be the green hat rule! Yep! Wearing a green hat is a major faux pas and I’ve had to instruct the hotelier to ditch any hats in this hue. THE GREEN HAT It’s all about a love triangle. The story goes…a long time a go, a married couple lived next door to a single man - who happened to be the village tailor. The woman's husband was a traveling businessman so was away regularly. You can guess what happens next, the bored housewife started having an affair with her neighbour, the tailor. She asked her lover (the tailor) to make a green hat for her husband. Every time he left the village, his wife would give her husband the green hat to wear on his trip. Little did he know, it was a ‘signal’ to the neighbor,"Husband's going out of town, I'm a free agent!" Hence, even today, if your husband is wearing a green hat, his wife is going to be under suspicion. Suffice to say, no man in China today wears a green hat, ever! In fact, even just uttering the words “wear a green hat” - “dai lu mao zi” can get you into a great deal of trouble. It sounds the same as the word for ‘cuckold’ - the husband of an adultress! And don’t even think about giving it as a gift. I'm told it will be politely declined. Consequently, there is also a famous Chinese movie called The Green Hat! THE TOFU HOUSE Meantime, the saying “Wo xi huan chi doufu” — “I like to eat tofu” is also one for men, in particular, to steer clear of. A long time ago there was a famous tofu restaurant owned by a girl who served up delicious tofu. She was also very beautiful with ivory-white skin (a sign of great beauty in China). Of course it wasn’t just the tofu people were going to the restaurant for, according to legend, men flocked to eat the tofu day after day and to look at the gorgeous girl who let the men touch her face and feel her delicate skin. (This is a lady who knew she was clearly onto a good thing!) Naturally, the wives of these men would say “Today you’ve eaten tofu again!!!” and scold their husbands for going to flirt with the pretty shop owner. Today if you say “I like to eat tofu” in Chinese, you are basically saying you like to flirt with women. NO SHOES FOR YOUR LOVER If you happen to meet someone special on Chinese shores….and a little while into the relationship you think it might be a good idea to give them a gift…maybe some new shoes you’ve seen her eyeing off or perhaps you think his shoes are just not cutting it, whatever you do, don’t buy them new shoes. Basically you're implying that you want the recipient to walk away, in other words, disappear! Oh and speaking of shoes, you all know you're supposed to take your shoes off at the door when you go to a Chinese home, right? You'll usually get some lovely fluffy slippers in return (that really don't go with your outfit)! VERTICAL CHOPTSICKS I've mentioned this before but because it's such a no no, I'll quickly touch on it again. Chopsticks are the local tools of the trade and should not be messed with. Almost every meal is eaten with a pair of Kuai zi, and it’s considered very rude to stand your chopsticks vertically in your bowl. Why? Vertical chopsticks look like burning incense. Incense burning, is associated with making offerings at graves or tombs for ancestors. So, when you’re dining at a local 'hole in the wall' or invited to a Chinese friend’s home, put the chopsticks down parallel on the edge of the bowl or on the table. THE NUMBER 250 It seems quite harmless….it’s just a number right? Wrong. No matter where you go in China, you can guarantee you will never see anything with the number 250. Period! In the shops, nothing will ever be priced at $250. Why? In Chinese 250 or ‘er bai wu’ means crazy, or stupid idiot! If you’re bargaining it’s best not to say 250! $249 or $251 is perfectly ok! 250 has even made it into the Urban Dictionary. Unless you want to insult someone it’s best to avoid these digits. DON’T SHARE A PEAR As tempted as you might be to share that juicy pear you’ve just brought at the local markets with a friend, sharing a pear with your friends or families, especially your loved ones is a big taboo in China. In Chinese, the phrase for “sharing a pear” is 'fen li', which also happens to mean 'separate!' The superstitious Chinese person will interpret this as saying you don't want to see him or her again. So unless you’re trying to give someone a big hint, keep your pear to yourself! DONT HUG IT OUT Chinese people for the most part lean to the conservative side when it comes to friendly greetings. (Which after Hong Kong's kiss on both cheeks, kind of suits me, an ever so slightly affectionately challenged being when it comes to mere strangers!) A kiss or two and a hug is often just a little bit too intense. Stand back and try for a hand shake (at the very most)! Otherwise just a polite 'ni hao' and a smile will suffice. Your forward affections will be seen as super embarrassing and awkward. On the other hand don’t be surprised to see two women (or men) walking arm and arm down the street. It’s perfectly acceptable for same sex, long time friends to be very affectionate in public. UNDERSTAND THE UMBRELLA People in China wield umbrellas just about all year round. Rain or shine, umbrellas will protect you. But just because they're so popular and come in all colours and pretty fabrics, that's no reason to give someone one as a wedding gift. The word for umbrella 'San' also means separate (go figure) so you get the gist. And if you’re at a wedding and it’s raining whatever you do, do not give the bride or groom an umbrella to shelter them. It’s a bad omen and will mean the couple is destined to separate. They'd rather get soaked, I'm sure! If this intrigued you, check out my post In with the New, Out with the Old from CNY 2013 for a gazillion other cultural do's and don'ts in the fabulous Orient. Pssst… I've only written about '8' cultural taboos in China because, well the number eight - ba sounds like fa, meaning wealth or fortune and is therefore considered very lucky! I'm not taking any chances. ;) This is China … [Read more...]
Asia Versus Europe: Let’s Play Spot the Difference!
Given it was my first time out of Asia in seven months and for the hotelier, two years (Yes! two god dam years!), it was always going to be an amusing amazing experience on all fronts! Heck, just crossing the road was going to be fraught with a little bit of excitement! And it was! "What? Errr you sure it's safe to cross on the little green man?" Apparently, yes! Yippee! Our summer destination was France! Yes, sounds quite indulgent/romantic/exotic, I know. If it makes you feel better, it was a family gathering in the north of France with a house load of kids, so you can erase any picture of us racing through fields of sunflowers in a convertible in the south of France whilst quaffing wine from the myriad of vineyards enveloping us…like so: It wasn't too shabby though. We had fields of lush wheat….stretched out in front of us like a beautiful cashmere blanket, stunning sunsets, great company (even the kids) and French food! Hello pain au chocolate, brie cheese, baguettes and French wine! Oui! Oui! And then we had Paris.....the Arc de Triomphe (circled by the Tour de France no less), the Eiffel Tower and Moulin Rouge. Ok…so it was a pretty glam holiday for us current China-dwellers. Given the circumstances, off the bat, it was obviously going to be hard not to compare. Talking countries not kids (of course)!! (Well yes, when it comes to kids given mine screeched sporadically, waking the entire homestead every night, I'd rather not go there!) But China - France? Asia versus Europe! Where to even begin! Some might say don't even bother, but for the fun of it, let's compare notes. Of course landing in France, it's hard not to notice the traffic. Mostly, for its insignificance, if anything. Instead of a game of 'eye spy' on the journey from Paris to Normandy to keep the small person amused, it was more fun to play 'Spot the Difference.' The roads were ever so orderly and everyone appeared to be managing (mostly) to stick to their own lanes…..ok so those hairy driver's zipping around the Arc de Triomphe in the middle of Paris could've probably resembled a scene straight out of downtown Xi'an, but for the most part, drivers in France were, shall we say, 'refined.' (Just don't mention the British/Aussie tourists doing circles with a dodgy sat-nav.) Mind you, as refined as they were, we did find ourselves on more than one occasion held up for more than a few minutes by road blockages in the countryside, courtesy of protests! One such protest came in the shape of traffic being ground to a halt for at least an hour....at the end of the road block, about 20 huge rigs stationed strategically across roadways, a few measly banners stating their cause and a bunch of seemingly oblivious blokes drinking beer on the roundabout! Just one police car insight. Apparently this is not unusual in France? Beeping was down to a (pleasantly) dull roar…. incredibly soothing to my now pulverized ears…the peaceful buzz of cars cruising the streets in relatively smooth fashion, a sweet symphony. Oddly, it made me a little on the nervous side though. Maybe I'm getting used to weaving through the cars in a laissez faire fashion! Speaking of stopping, um, since when did fuel stops get so fancy? Major hubs for serious coffee-refuelling at your disposal! Ok - so clearly by the very title of this blog, you'll gather I'm no coffee connoisseur, so I admit I was quite taken with the machines dispensing Kit Kat flavoured coffees. Anyone? I also came to the careful conclusion (whilst stuffing my face) in Europe just how much I miss 'normal' food. At least what I consider to be normal, anyway - as a good old Aussie bbq-loving, fish 'n' chip chewing, cheese-hoovering, seafood slurping, chocoholic. Don't get me wrong, I don't mind Chinese food, in fact give me a good plate of Dim Sum day or night but when you don't grow up with it, it's quite hard to make pig's lung and chicken feet your daily staple. No disrespect… Actually, on the food note, can I just say I was impressed with the 'service' in Paris…. people often comment that the French are notorious for being a little on the arrogant side, but for us, the fact they even spoke to us was rather refreshing. In a lot of European countries, being a waiter is a profession. I love that the middle-aged men who've obviously been on the gig for years take such pride in their service…it's almost an art, yes even in the most casual of cafes…..And language is no barrier! Mind you, I've just had a thought about the young girl who served us on one occasion in a Paris cafe and had no qualms about walking out mid service to have a smoke break at the front door. Let's call that a generation gap, shall we? The architecture is obviously different at first glance, and second.….in the country it's all cobblestones, castles and corn fields and in Paris, well what's not to love about all those dainty iron clad railings decorating the window sills …brightly colored flowers flowing freely, stunning gold statues, the magnificent Sacre-Coeur and of course the always awe-inspiring Eiffel Tower. Um did somebody say Pagoda? Incidentally, today I found myself taking a few pics of the rather impressive statues in my backyard…not quite The Colonne de Juillet but pretty slick nonetheless! Admittedly, there is also quite a lot of European influence throughout Asia. From Shanghai to Macau, even just up the road here in Xi'an, a little bit of European charm is visible. Let's talk about the language… French…. "Ooh La La!" I haven't spoken it since high school but let me reiterate, compared with 'trying to' speak Chinese, it is a dream!! Yes! I probably needed to know more than 'bonjour' and 'merci beaucoup,' but the freedom one feels when you don't have to 'sing' a language in four different pitches was highly liberating. And, signs, glorious signs that were decidedly decipherable proudly displayed before me! Put it this way, if I was in a taxi or stranded somewhere in the middle of the city, my body wouldn't kick into 'fight or flight' mode. (Any expat in Xi'an will tell you the thought of their phone battery dying whilst 'out' is their worst nightmare!) Let me just say this foreign country felt so much less foreign. In fact, when we first arrived in northern France, we almost forgot we were in a foreign country, much of it felt very English…which of course it's not really. But that's when it hits you, how different Asia really is to the West…. Without putting you off your dinner, I've got to say I reveled in the level of hygiene. Now that just sounds plain weird doesn't it! But not having to remember to use hand sanitiser Every. Single. Time we ate or Every. Single. Time we'd been out of the hotel was oh so lovely. I even (heaven forbid) laid eyes on a squat toilet, that looked relatively inviting, well as much as any toilet can. I will spare you the details, but if you've been to China you'll know what I mean. Multiculturalism….the diversity was powerful and mesmerizing to watch. Everywhere, a myriad of nationalities…all blending into the vibrant Parisian scene - vividly different skin types, hair colors and dress codes on display. Sure, in China there are other cultures in the mix, but it's mostly us few western expats meandering on the sidelines. Last but not least I can't go past that superb blue, ever so high, sky and those delicate fluffy white 'marshmallow' clouds. A rare scene in Xi'an, even on a sunny day. Fresh air! And inhale! Ahh the Eiffel Tower and all its glory…a spot for excited tourists from all over the globe to congregate and admire… and there was no mistaking the Chinese tourist. The lady decked out from head to toe in Louis Vuitton teetering on her heels waiting for her little girl to emerge from the bushes, right next to the Eiffel Tower… Ahem! And at the airport check in, ma and pa sitting on their portable seats plucked from their backpacks, while they waited for their son to deliver their passports. Not actually a bad idea, really, given the chaotic, disorganized Charles de Gaulle Airport we were unexpectedly confronted with at ten o'clock at night. There's a lot to be said for the efficiency of Asian airports! After lining up with the masses for what seemed like an eternity (two hours to be precise), we were greeted warmly with the words, 'over-sold,' 'over-booked' and 'bumped off!' Ok, so we weren't quite bumped off...but with a 12 hour long haul flight back to China in front of us it was a little mortifying to hear they had booked all three of us in separate seats. Yep, my four year old was seated on her own. Now, not that I'm saying I wouldn't love a long flight seated On. My. Own. Hell yes - movies, wine, uninterrupted sleep….but let's be real, a 4 year old can't sit on her own for 12 hours. Can she?! Apparently sitting you 'randomly' apart from each other or worse being told you're out, when you check in, is what happens…not bad if you're single and can handle an extension of your holiday with a night in a chic French hotel. Of course in all my single travels it's never happened to me. How about you? Airlines regularly overbook the number of passengers flying for the number of seats to park their behind on, because they can almost always guarantee there will be "no shows" and a lot of them. They do the same in hotels too. (Shhhh) Yep, they do the maths and then bump the ones they think they can get away with…. if you're a platinum member, a regular customer, with a family, or have booked through the hotel itself, you've got more chance of staying put (just quietly). The fact we were on a connecting flight was in our favour but the staff at check in (as helpful as they were) couldn't fix it until we got to the gate to board. So boarding pass in hand, we hightailed it, all the while I was frantically preparing my self righteous speech about how we couldn't possibly fly in such circumstances or how perhaps they might need to upgrade us to first class (surely there would be spare beds seats up the pointy end?!); or how I was quite happy for the flight attendants to have Small Person overnight if they didn't mind her being spread across their laps rolling fitfully backwards and forwards in her sleep for the entire journey! Turns out, my panic was overrated…. an incredibly calm man at check in efficiently changed our seats without so much as a "Madam, I'm sorry to say but…." and on board we went….smooth sailing. The in-flight food more than made up for it….yep, I'll admit it out loud, I am pretty tired of the oil soaked noodles and dodgy bits of chicken floating in dried up rice on most Asian flights I get. Air France your Brie cheese had me at hello. That said, coming back to 'my reality' in Xi'an, I'm instantly reminded of the intriguing and vibrantly-coloured patchwork quilt of commotion, on my doorstep! Yes, whilst, many days it has me in a state of eye rolling disbelief, it really is quite a captivating, intriguing and comical amusing place. The streets are never uniform, the people never orderly, the country is awash with uniqueness on every level and that… is NEVER dull. To borrow a quote from Forrest Gump, China's "like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get!" Chicken's feet and all! For now, this is China. … [Read more...]
“Mad Max” Scenes! The School Run in China!
So the truth of the matter is, I may well have been heard (from across the miles) whinging and moaning a few times (just a few) about the hour and a half (plus) round trip to take my daughter to school, here in China each morning. (Especially mid-winter!) But…(there's always a but)… i'll let you in on a little secret: it's actually one of the highlights of my day. (Yeh, I lead an exciting life, I know!) As an expat (especially one living in a 5-Star bubble) it's easy to avoid the real world in which you've been plonked in….and pretend you're just on a stay cation (kind of). So my forced early morning plunge into the real world is invigorating, to say the least! For starters, I'm not a morning person, so the fact that it gets me up and (presentable for the outside world) early, is not entirely a bad thing. Most of all though, I am fascinated by the kaleidoscope of color I see flying by me on the daily 45 minute journey from one side of town to the other. The eye opening sights and the cacophony of sounds have me permanently mesmerized (which often includes the crackle of fireworks, at 9am, no less)! Like any city, it's a busy time of day….and here it's a patchwork quilt of hustle and bustle in hair-raising fashion… And it's not just on the roads. I'll see workers starting the day by dancing in unison to a particularly well choreographed beat on the side of the road…(team building at its best). In winter, mini open fires are breathing a toasty warmth at chilled workers starting the day outdoors. Some people are already snoozing, in the most unlikely spots (like the side of a busy highway)! Majong games are underway…. and the elderly are exercising up a storm in local parks. Cleaners in their now familiar bright orange uniforms dot every street corner with their makeshift straw brooms, dare I say, rather aimlessly sweeping up the rubbish (not to mention dirt…they like to sweep the dirt). Water trucks cruise to the tune of "It's a small world" spraying away the dust. Street food carts line footpaths catching the work crowds for breakfast. Whatever the season, the daily drive through the manic, bumper to bumper traffic includes bikes, lots of them. Until 20 years ago, there were no cars on Xi'an's roads, so this is a city with a mammoth bike riding culture. Testament to this, is every conceivable type of bike on the road..all idling along amongst the fast cars (old and new) and snuggling beside ridiculously overcrowded busses. Three wheelers, Tuk Tuks, electric bikes, bikes with trailers, tiny push bikes with overgrown men….or one of the myriad of bright green bikes you can hire at numerous bike stations planted all over the city. Many are loaded up with precariously balanced goods including everything from white goods (i'm talking fridges and the like) to sky-high piles of rubbish, even mattresses and people, so00 many people, all on one bike sandwiched together for their morning run. Safety is naturally questionable. Crash helmets are optimal and very few are worn. Although I do see the odd "Village People" style helmet perched on the top of someone's head. Side-saddle is pretty mandatory for the ladies, often riding on the back. Texting/talking on your phone, perfectly acceptable, as is riding in the back of a trailer in the middle of the city. Umbrellas are the accessory du jour. Rain or shine, brightly coloured brollies (some edged with lace, others with spectacular patterns) are wielded to protect from the elements. Specially created umbrellas act as rainproof roofs never failing in the most blustery conditions. Raincoats come in a variety of shapes and sizes….some made to fit two people, some made to fit you and your bike. In winter, no one rides without big, warm gloves attached to the handle bars. It's never ever dull and I spend most of my time frantically trying to capture what I see, on camera (usually with little return for my investment). I know! Trying to take a photograph in a moving vehicle is largely futile! (For the record, I'm not driving!) Although here, no one would bat an eyelid if I was trying to snap a shot whilst behind the wheel! Here tackling the roads as a driver is an event like no other I've seen. I thought Hong Kong roads were wild…. looking back, they seem tame and (shock horror) rather orderly. Here it's a complete mish mash of busses, cars, bikes and people all vying for a spot almost seemingly oblivious to each other. But ironically, the system, whatever it is, works!! Most of the time, anyway. I've observed, that, on the whole, here in Xi'an, cars on the road don't really ever stop on their journey. By that I mean, there are very few traffic lights and everyone is just moving forward (sideways and backwards) albeit rather slowly….weaving in and out…but rarely do they grind to an actual halt. Invariably, this is not helping me to capture a good shot! And I don't think my driver would be too happy if I started asking him to stop every 30 seconds so I could snap the picture. Every few days though, somehow, I do manage to get a half decent one, which I've been saving to put together in this one post for your viewing pleasure. Hopefully you'll find it as much of a fascinating assault on the senses as I do. The longer I'm here, naturally the more I learn about this city and what makes it tick. Why it is what it is. I'm told, until just a few years ago, locals could more or less get their driver's license without too much effort. These days things are a little more strict and you must register with a driving school but there is no set number of driving lessons. Who needs practice eh! At first glance, it seems like drivers here drive well, terrible! (The saying getting your license in a cornflakes packet seems rather apt!) It's not uncommon to see people in brand new, rather slick cars 'stuck,' simply unable to drive them from point A to B. They've literally driven them off the showroom floor without so much as a driving lesson. It doesn't seem to matter. People (rather comically) expect this. It's probably why the rules are so few and far between. No one sticks to their lane, ever (unless on the freeway) and very very few drivers use those things we call 'blinkers'…and guess what, no one gives two hoots. (Or maybe they do?!) These people have a much more powerful tool at their disposal….it's called the mighty horn!! The horn seems to be the answer…the thing that allows drivers to weave in and out of traffic in any fashion they choose. Crossing into four lanes of oncoming traffic without so much as a hesitant foot on the break is completely normal. (For the first few months, I literally closed my eyes on the run!) The beeping is the one constant in your day! It's loud, prolonged and ear splitting! Night and day! Initially, I assumed there must be a lot of angry drivers out there. I mean, where I come from, beeping at someone means you're pretty peeved. Road rage is all the rage! Here though it acts as a type of 'warning' system. A friendly nudge, if you like (moments before the nudge)! "Hey I'm coming up behind you, move to the side"…."Hey small car, I'm moving into your lane move over…" Hey person, I'm right beside you, be careful." No one is offended by this courtesy beep…they just move ever so slightly out of the way. Interestingly, come exam time in school though, the government bans all beeping! Cars come within inches of each other (and people) but mindbogglingly rarely collide! I've seen very few major accidents around the city….the speed limit rarely gets over 40 - usually a few minor bingles are visible…which themselves cause more chaos because unless both parties can agree who's at fault, they must stay put in the exact spot they collided until the police arrive (which can take awhile). My small person and I have had the pleasure of being stuck giggling nervously in the back seat after a 'bump' with another car, while traffic edged past us in every direction on a very busy highway. (It wasn't ideal to get out….and have a gazillion Chinese men gawking at the whiteys!) The same goes for crossing the road. There's absolutely no set rule. Most people just step out without so much as a sideways glance over their shoulder… No body really waits until the little 'green' man says it's safe to cross (because it's not). Cars still keep driving directly at you without slowing down. It's you who needs to stop and let them pass, not the car. I'm always amazed more people don't get run over but somehow everyone manages to narrowly miss one another. It sounds manic (and a little frightening I know) but once you get used to it, the heart failure moments are minimized - mind you teaching the four year old road rules is probably out of the question! The one and only rule you need to remember, whoever is bigger gets to go first! There's no mistaking you're in China. It's a school run with serious attitude! This is China! … [Read more...]
Repatriation is Not a Dirty Word!
It’s a Completely Different Ball Game: Tips to play it well! "Expat!" In my current circles, it’s a word tossed around between friends like a ball between team players in a sports game. Everyone has days where they hold on to the ball a little tighter, clinging on to all that it represents; especially when it's often the only way to survive in a foreign country. Other times we toss it away, eager to pass the ball on to someone else - sick of all that it means and brings…the distance from loved ones, the never-ending goodbyes, the isolation, the challenges. Expatriating is never easy, to start with at least….it takes time to rack up points on the board and feel like a winner in a new country. At the risk of overdoing the ball analogy, its like playing for a new team after years of bonding with another. Scary as hell, but once you bond with your new team, its high fives all ‘round…you play the game and you play it well! But what about repatriating - it's not a word that we bandy about with the same energy as we do expat! In fact amongst expats it's often a dirty word! After all, it means the ride is over…..the adventure is finished. We are homeward bound. Or as the actual definition says: “The process of returning a person to their place of origin or citizenship.” You are forever changed. Hell, I’m gonna keep using this ball analogy, I like it! Repatriating is a whole different ball game! I like how Naomi Hattaway sums it up in her post "I am a Triangle." For some expats entrapped in all that is expat life, it’s the unthinkable… no one wants to talk about it. For others, whose time is up, it’s the unavoidable and for many it’s the inevitable and more often than not the desirable….but whatever lures you back home, it usually comes with the age-old question, when is the right time to pack up and call it a day? Many of the expats I know (including myself) have been bouncing the expat ball for more than a few good years now……but in their heart of hearts they know it’s time to think about hanging up their boots and returning home. Once you get over the mental hurdle, it starts to come up in conversations more regularly, and is discussed more intently. Usually there are three big questions: Where to live? Where to work? And (if you have children) where to send them to school? Expats are expats for many reasons….amongst the most obvious, the desire for a change of pace, the excitement of life in a new country, the thrill of an adventure…….but it’s not all about the hair-raising shenanigans, it's also for the lifestyle it more often than not affords….and the career prospects it brings. Most of us are living in another country because our job or our partner’s job has taken us there; while it's often in a strange country, where your native language isn't spoken, the culture is poles apart from your own and you can't get a block of Cadbury's chocolate to save yourself (oh wait! That's just me!) there are also many benefits that come with the expat title. Whether it’s free or cheaper housing, paid school tuition, a driver, regular trips back home, health insurance and/or a higher salary than you were previously afforded, lower tax rates or no tax at all; it generally brings advantages you wouldn't normally get at home. Expats are often in countries less developed than their own which means everyday life is cheaper, whether it's eating out at local hole in the wall, the low cost of public transport, getting hired help at a fraction of the price it would cost back home, or being able to afford regular exotic holidays. And for some living the expat lifestyle, things like car payments, utility bills and groceries are taken out of the equation. It’s easy to see why expats become addicted to their new life overseas. Once the expat bug bites, it bites hard and giving it up, understandably no easy task. For many expats who moved away for two years and that two became ten; one child became three….returning home with excess baggage means your lifestyle expenses have probably changed quite dramatically, compared to life before moving away. This makes heading home particularly daunting when you know the cost of living is incomparable. Housing in your home country may have doubled since you left….the cost of food skyrocketed, school fees risen with the rest of the world and babysitters these days, well they’re not happy with a packet of chips and a good movie! Then there are the job opportunities. Many expats are in the countries they are in, for the sheer job availability factor. Back home, these kind of jobs just don’t exist and if they do, the pond is small. There’s also the psychological affect. When you go overseas as an expat everything is brand spanking new and different - while it’s challenging at times, it’s ok because you expect it to be. Your brain allows you to process these idiosyncrasies as all part of the "cultural" experience. When you go home, you expect things to be the same as when you left, but often they’re not and there's no putting it down to being in an exotic/bizzare location. Psychologists say, "The home expats return to can feel as strange as the foreign land they once travelled to!" While a lot of effort is put into expatriating, global companies are being asked to think about both ends of the deal these days or risk losing valuable employees all too soon after they’ve arrived home. So how do you repatriate and how do you do it well? 1) Be Emotionally Prepared There's no denying, it can be emotionally tough, moving, well anywhere! Repatriating, it's important to acknowledge, things WILL have changed, not just for you and your family but also the family and friends you're returning to. There's a good chance, your family and friends will treat you as the same person who left, and you’ll probably find yourself acting the same way. Those old patterns will take a while to change once you’re back home, and sometimes it may feel like nothing has really changed at all. Did you ever leave? This article in Reach to Teach Recruiting explains how important it is to Let It Go. Naturally, the bonds you've created with expat friends are strong - when you’re living in another country it can feel like you connect with an instant community of likeminded friends, but make sure you also keep in touch with old friends and family. With today’s technology…you have the ability to stay connected! It's easier to know what friends are up to, what’s happening in their lives and of course keep in regular touch with loved ones. Prepare your children mentally for the return home. Adjusting to move back home is a bigger challenge for children who have grown up in a different country. Make sure that they are feeling somewhat settled before putting them into another new school. Remember you can't recreate your old life, this is a new chapter. Keep travelling, even in your home country. Try to see things you've seen in an effort to quell that yearn for adventure. 2) Be Financially Prepared There are a few key things to think about when it comes to finances when you repatriate. You may have been a non-resident in your home country, for taxation purposes, so you'll need to re-register with the relevant taxation body. Make sure you renegotiate your contract if you are heading back home with the same company; if you're taking on a new job, make sure your salary is sufficient to cover the cost of living. Some points to think about: interest-free loans or loans at favorable rates to buy a house. Check local banks/building societies in your home town offering competitive fixed home rates like Newcastle Permanent. Ask about car or other living expenses; assistance for re-housing; food allowance; the cost covered or partially covered for children’s education; compensation for the loss of your spouse’s income. Be aware that, if you haven't kept a bank account open in your home country while you've been living overseas you may not be entitled to any credit (including a mortgage) on your return. Some repatriation experts recommend (if you are in a position to do so) buying a place back home while you’re still living away and going there for vacations and holiday periods. “This way, you develop your relationships within the community.” And when you go there to live permanently, it will feel more like home, where you belong,” says Gwen Sawchuck. Financial advisors say transferring money back home can be an option to manage savings, investments and mortgage commitments. Check out Mint Mocha Musings partner Clearfx. 3) Be Practically Primed Repatriating as a resident is naturally different in each country. Make sure you've organized a shipping company if you have things to take home; get quotes just as you did when you left. Check on pet relocation/quarantine guidelines, schooling for your children (do you need to have deposits down in advance?) research where to live, the best suburbs and what you can realistically afford. Investigate the jobs market…how easy/hard will it be to find work. Organise for your mail to be forwarded and tie up loose ends with your current place of abode, including closing bank accounts, phone lines and housing leases. Check you're covered for medical care and dental care. Do make sure all of your documents like educational certificates, birth certificates, licenses, medical certificates, marriage certificates etc are not in the shipping and easily accessible when you return home. You'll need them. (Trust me!) The truth is….reality bites. Repatriation can be harder than leaving…and just as it does when you become an expat….it takes time to adjust. The game's not over….it's just a new season! "Cherish those memories and experiences, but don’t judge the present against them. There are so many more adventures to find, so many more journeys to take—but you will never see them if you’re always turning your face toward the past." … [Read more...]
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