7:30am and the streets are bustling with locals…many are elderly Chinese (often with their grandchildren)….they’re in their element, out and about, primed for business (and socialising)! There’s an awful lot of yelling (which for a non-morning person, seems a tad extreme) but it’s all par for the course when you step into the whirlpool of commotion that is the morning wet markets, in the middle of north west China! It’s a fascinating kaleidoscope of colour, set up right in the middle of a quiet village street, which come afternoons, will resume its place as a peaceful haven of tranquility. But for now, it seems, everything and anything is up for grabs…. Cooking up a barbie? This is where you get your fresh meat, looking, well extremely fresh, perched on the back of a truck for your perusal… Note: Large axe at the ready, sitting on a tree stump - (obviously the perfect chopping board)! Just across from the meat truck, fresh crisp bread (that make the perfect pizza bases) is being baked in a giant kiln at a rapid pace… A trike loaded with fresh flowers sets off for the day. Further into the flurry of heaving bodies -- noodles are being frantically weighed and chopped on the back of bikes; truckloads of Tofu stand at the ready and people are hastily exchanging their hard earned cash for tonight's dinner. Eggs of every shape and colour overflow from baskets on the footpath and vegetables in every shade of green are laid out along the ground, ripe for the picking. Fresh fish (and I mean so fresh they are alive) flap in buckets until you make your selection. (Don’t mind the 'Wai guo ren' (foreigner) stifling her shriek as she spies the fish being retrieved and hastily hit over the head ready for purchase.) It’s clearly a feast for the eyes and at times an assault on ones senses…. Just to the side of the markets is a large park. Wednesday morning and it’s brimming with life. Every single nook and cranny is occupied. It occurs to me that no one does mornings like China’s senior citizens! Pockets of the park are punctuated with groups of women dancing in unison…. Lone men sit playing their favourite instrument. There’s no busking, this is simply playing for pleasure. Others stand under the shade of a tree practicing Tai Chi. Stationary exercise machines are being given an emphatic work out and strange sports that clearly involve a high degree of skill are underway with gusto! Men huddle together playing Mahjong; a choir is gathered under a small pagoda singing to their heart’s content. Just nearby rows of ping pong tables are witnessing some lively games. Others, content to go it alone. And then this…. a traditional sword dance! Good Morning Xi’an! This is China. … [Read more...]
Grab Your Hong Bao! You’re Invited to a Wedding in China!
The fact that I’d never met the bride or groom, apparently posed no issue for all those involved in the wedding extravaganza! So the teeny matter, that I failed to register it was actually the Groom saying ‘Nihao’ to me at the entrance to the wedding reception and the small fact I retaliated with a cheery “Hello, how are you today?” hopefully went under the radar!! (Too late to say congratulations now!) Surprisingly (or not) during my rather short stint in China thus far, I’ve somehow managed to find myself witnessing quite a few romantic nuptials! You may recall we inadvertently found ourselves smack bang in the middle of a wedding ceremony, in our first week in Xi’an? If you want to relive the hilarity of being a wedding crasher, click here. So, there’s usually not much notice given for a wedding in China, with invitations delivered just a few weeks, sometimes just days before the big event! With a couple of weeks notice for this week-day wedding, we were able to mark it in the calendar; somehow though, I missed the memo explaining that when you arrive at a wedding here in China, the first thing you do is give your gift (a small red envelope filled with crisp new notes - ideally to the tune of an auspicious number - nothing with four in it ok!) to the panel of people out the front. Ahhh so that’s why James is ignoring the bride and groom who are waiting for us -- watching as the money is earnestly counted out -- in front of us! (Awkward wait while I try to erase thoughts racing through my head about whether we’ve given enough money and in the right denominations)! It’s about now I realise the random guy that said “hi” is now standing next to the bride (you can’t miss her, she’s the one wearing the white bridal gown)! To be fair, she was actually yelling at her new husband, so I missed the ‘just married’ cues…(Hopefully it wasn’t, “is that all these loser foreigners are giving us!! I thought you said he was the big boss!!”) I attempt to feign a few, by now, feeble congratulations and use small person as a decoy with a “Wow! look at this beautiful bride,” while the hotelier appears to be writing an essay in the wedding book! (Anytime!!) We are then ushered (rushed) into the lavish reception area, which is typically oozing glamour - from the designer runway lined with candelabras to the elaborate backdrops; Cameras on giant booms swing by us (narrowly missing the hotelier’s head I might add)! As flash as the room looks, many of the guests though, look like they may have just got off the couch at home.. some are wearing tracksuits, many are in jeans….most are in casual clothes. Apparently this is perfectly normal for a Chinese wedding. After all it’s just a quick lunch really, a couple of hours at best, that usually starts around noon. (Despite now knowing about this dress code, I just can’t for the life of me, bring myself to attend a wedding in jeans, not yet anyway.) The ubiquitous bottle of Baijiu is placed on the table in it's box, she’s flanked by big bottles of Coca Cola and Sprite. We are served tea and then it’s supposedly on to the hard stuff….(Now’s a good time to mention there are also plates of loose free-flow cigarettes at a special table just outside the ballroom, should you wish to inhale). Families of the bride occupy two large tables at the front and their tables are often draped in red table cloths to signify their VIP status. As soon as we are all seated….the groom gives a quick speech….(of which I have no idea what is being said, given it’s obviously all in Chinese…but I get the gist…and try to nod in appropriate places). Pictures from the happy couple’s photo shoot flash up on big projector screens. Here in China, the wedding shoot is done weeks if not months before the big day. Couples will often go to another city or country to have these photos taken in several different outfits in many different, rather exotic locations. Not surprising given ten million couples tie the knot every single year in China, the photogpraphy game is big business! Whilst the ultimate goal of living ‘happily ever after’ is largely the same, the bride looks stunning in white and there’s a big celebration; the traditions and rituals that go with saying 'I do' are a little different. Until a couple of generations ago, most marriages in China were arranged. Yep, that means your parents generally chose your life partner and whether you thought he or she was cute, funny, smart, romantic or simply a whizz in the kitchen, really played no part in it. In fact, I’m told in many rural parts of China, they still have arranged marriages and there are still regular weekend “marriage markets” in places like Shanghai where parents go armed with a list of their child’s vital statistics on display, eager to find them a love match! (I’m pretty sure the child in question has no clue his or her assets are being advertised to the nation.) Sadly, there still seems to be a stigma tied to women today in China who aren’t married by the age of around 27! They call them “Sheng Nu” or “Leftover Women!” Say what?! (This explains why my local hairdresser and his team nearly had a pink fit when I announced I’d married on the ‘other’ side of 35! Looking me up and down, they eye-balled me suspiciously, like I may be hiding some sort of third arm or leg!) While in the Western world we can date without it necessarily leading to marriage, for Chinese, once dating became more acceptable (and dating shows took over television land)….it’s wasn’t a case of shopping around, trying on a few for size…..forget playing the field. For most, dating is serious business!… You date with the intention to marry! And once you’ve made it clear you’re boyfriend and girlfriend, it’s crucial that both parents wholeheartedly agree with your liaison. In China, a marriage is about two families joining together, more so than just two individuals. Especially, as the children are largely responsible for looking after their parents in their old age. This is taken extremely seriously and is prioritised above most other things in life. Grandparents are also often responsible for bringing up the couple's children. So it seems, once the union is agreed to by both families, the real fun begins! I’m told the traditions differ a little between North and South China, but in the North, the husband’s family will cement the unification with a gift of around RMB100-thousand (US$16,000) to the bride’s family, along with jewellery and other auspicious gifts. Not so long ago, the bride would go to live with the husband’s family. Today, they generally reside together in their own home. Oh and while you don’t see many Chinese women wearing diamond rings, I'm assured they do have them, most are just kept safely at home! Together the families will consult a fortune teller to ensure the pairing is suitable and once they have the green light, the two families meet to find a ‘favourable’ date that will ensure a long, healthy and happy union. Often the Chinese Almanac (calendar) is consulted which lists all of the most prosperous days. Once the date has been set, there is no turning back. Come the morning of the official event, there are lot of Chinese traditions going on at home — which I’m told even involves the bride hiding her shoes for the groom to find… (heaven help him if he can’t)!! Shoes found and it's time to party! The legalities are all done at the offices of the Civil Affairs Bureau, sometimes a week or more before the celebrations, so you won’t see an exchanging of vows at the celebrations. Once the groom has given his speech, you’ll usually see dad on the catwalk, daughter on arm, presenting her to her new husband. There is a lot of emotional chatter, the husband goes down on one knee and plenty of hugging. Usually the bride is in tears. (Hopefully tears of pure joy)! The couple then walk down the catwalk with the bridal party, (who can be known to bust a few dance moves). The bride and groom say a few romantic words to each other and in this case, the bouquet was thrown -- but only to the girls in the bridal party. Tip for all those single girls: time to work on getting a gig in the bridal party. There's no Best Man embarrassing the groom, this is strictly above board! This is where the hotelier comes in. Just between you and me, I’m pretty sure we are not invited to the wedding for sentimental reasons. Mostly, the happy couple want the boss (the white boss, no less) to stand up and say a few words, in English. Never mind, that the majority of the wedding won’t understand, it’s all about the ‘value’ this strangely brings to the affair in question! Here’s a little snippet of how this goes down. Lucky for the hotelier (or not) there is a translator on hand. Once the formalities are done with, it’s time to tuck into the feast before us which involves about six courses, at least!! (Pig’s elbow being one of them at this week’s event, which I might add was pretty tasty!). While we’re feeding our faces, the bride has a quick change (often into her ‘Qipao’ - traditional Chinese dress) or something else glamorous, usually in red - symbolising luck and wealth. Together the couple must roam from table to table, toasting everyone in the room (often with shot glasses of Baijiu)! Mid mouthful of noodles or not, it’s imperative everyone gets to their feet when the couple arrives at your table. Meantime, a few guests have spied the small person and come over with red envelopes for her! (Who’s wedding is this?) Apparently giving children Hongbao or lucky money is supposed to bring joy and good luck for the twosome. The bride and groom don’t actually seem to sit down…once the toasting has been done, it’s almost time to call it a day!….They wait outside for the guests, who then pose with them for photos and congratulate them in person. And....that's a wrap! Typically, the newly weds will go on to have some sort of small gathering with friends. Meantime, we smile, slip out the side door and head for a much needed coffee! And that is how you say 'I do' in China. #Disclaimer: You may have had different experiences with Chinese weddings, this is just my observation of weddings in Xi'an. … [Read more...]
Do You Need a Career Break? Is it Time for an Adventure in Your Life?
Eight years ago this month, I took a six week hiatus from my job as a news reader at Sky News Australia and went on (what I considered to be) the journey of a lifetime to volunteer at an orphanage in Kenya, Africa. I was at that stage in life (mid 30's, single) where I knew I had to grab hold of life and do something that would stay with me as one of those 'once in a lifetime' memories. You know the ones where you picture yourself old and grey, sitting on a verandah one day (preferably watching the sun set with a Sav Blanc) looking back at photos of 'that time' with a satisfied smile. Something that actually makes you feel like you have really lived! Do you ever get that feeling? Of course, no sooner had I planned this trip of a life time, I met the man of my lifetime, on a blind date. Funny how that happens, isn't it! Stepping onto African soil, it was the first time I'd been to a developing country and as you'd expect, my mind boggled....I was completely in awe. Of course, I'd like to think after six weeks in Kenya's clutches, I came away with a completely renewed perspective on life -- but in all honesty I don't think it was something that slapped me in the face there and then. I didn't feel I was instantly changed. Sure, I could appreciate with more empathy how tough life is for many in this world and often despite the challenges, they are (incredibly) met with a broad smile on one's face. I could, with my own eyes, really understand the diversity of this world, the unfairness of it all and yet, see the beauty in it. AND yep I definitely felt like I left a little piece of my heart in Africa. Looking back, I think the change was something that infiltrated me, seeping through my veins slowly but surely, over the coming years. It certainly gave me a taste for adventure; a thirst for something different. (Mind you I wanted to be in Hollywood at the age of 12, so perhaps that's just me)?! Three years later though (having sworn to my now husband, I would never live overseas (at.my.age!) I decided Hong Kong was a pretty good adventure to take and worthy of a break in the resume. Of course it was Hong Kong!! And being newly pregnant, I knew I wasn't going to get any sleep so why not move to the City that Never Sleeps?! Makes perfect sense, doesn't it? And of course being a first time mum gave me a bit more of an excuse (encouragement) to pull the pin on a decade long career, for a little while at least! I won't lie and say it was an easy decision to move overseas (this was more than a sabbatical - mind you that said, I was extremely lucky to have the option of returning to my old job a year later, if it all went haywire and we chose to go back home. So in my mind I let that easily justify my decision for a small career-break)! That was then! Five years later and well, clearly I must thrive on the idea of pushing myself right out of my comfort zone, because here I am on a slightly different journey with a slightly different career path, now in the middle of China! Of course, I've had many moments (and sometimes still do) where I've wondered what the hell were we thinking! But ...there is not a moment to be regretted. And hopefully it's proof - that your desire for something new, a break, an adventure in life, doesn't have to mean the end of your career. Maybe it's not your career as you know it, but a new, improved version! A reinvention perhaps? One of the biggest concerns people have leaving a job to travel the world, is the dreaded resume gap. And, rightly so! Obviously it's a valid fear, but many and varied surveys have found once you pluck up the courage to do it, it's not actually that big a deal (providing you are sensible and have the cash to support yourself). Although let's not forget there are many ways to travel the world and get paid! So, whether it's learning a new language, volunteering, teaching or doing what you love in a different culture, the benefits in theory, should far outweigh the pros. My old boss used to whole-heartedly encourage a sabbatical. "Definitely makes for better journalists!" he'd say. My husband upped stumps and travelled the world for a year and a half at 25, backpacking his way around the world! (Still a little jealous of that one!) In my twenties, I was always too busy trying to get my career on track, too scared to leave the country for fear I'd never get my dream job. Looking back, I don't think a year out would've changed a single thing. Even better, today, the sabbatical is becoming more and more accepted. You can still travel and keep your job! There are tonnes of websites dedicated to this very cause! I found a couple of good ones right here: and here. In today's often highly pressurised work environments, more companies are seeing the importance and value of employees having work-life balance. Ah yes... that old chestnut! And sometimes, regardless of your age or experience, we just get stuck! We hit a roadblock and need to ask ourselves: "So, what's next?" Taking a career break or just a break in general (who needs a 'career' to have fun) is often the key to motivation, new opportunities, more creativity, a fresh start! As well, comes a boost in confidence, greater tolerance, higher awareness....more experience...you know the drill! How much is your Facebook feed filled with those once in a life time adventures we see our friends taking? We 'like' all their pictures of grand canyons and castles, pretty lakes and beautiful beaches. We see them hiking through stunning scenery, tasting exotic foods...embracing new cultures -- all moments in time, captured. Sometimes admittedly, we're probably a little jealous when we're stuck in front of the computer, belting out our day's tasks, deadlines to meet.... but mostly we can literally feel their excitement leaping off the page, and smile along with them, knowing these are precious 'balcony' memories being made! And if you're lucky enough, it doesn't even have to be a resume gap, but a chance to stay in your current job, overseas. (Yes, they call them (pesky) expats!) Sometimes it gives you your proudest moments....and how can these not add substance to your resume? Whether it's one month or one year away from your daily grind to see/do something different, it's a chance to grow and gain priceless knowledge. My very own Linked In profile summarises my 20 year career, capitalising on my skills and experience...but I also note one of my proudest moments is navigating a foreign land with a baby in tow and starting this blog! If you've been thinking about it, perhaps you're on the cusp of lining up that adventure....I'm sharing this excerpt from an email I sent from Kenya back home to friends and family. (Read or skim at your own pace!) For me it tells the story of a girl (slightly naive, yes) viewing another side of the world with fresh eyes and a desire to help (not to mention a well deserved pause in the daily blow-dry routine)! In truth, as much as we were there to help....these kids definitely helped shape us in more ways than one. And that's what an adventure does, no matter how big or small. It's good for the soul! "Finally made it to an internet cafe! We have been in Africa for 13 days now! It feels like a lifetime!!! It is an amazing place; I'm not sure words can describe it! We are staying in the Kenyan countryside...so it's hillbilly time and I feel like I've stepped back in time.. to the 1940s! The countryside is beautiful, very different to what I expected. Very green, lots of lush, rolling hills...almost like the English countryside. The weather is crazy - much like the country! One day it is scorching hot, the next raining and the entire region turns into a mud bath! Most roads are rich red dirt!...(About now I am really wishing I brought boots with me...my sneakers will never be the same again!) :) We ended up staying with a host family as there isn't really any room at the orphanage and it is VERY basic and quite dirty!! In hindsight, it is just as well because we spend really long days at the children's home and get pretty feral and filthy!..so it's nice to have the luxury of coming home. Spoilt! The host home is quite palatial! NOT what we expected...but while it looks fantastic, it is very much back to the Colonial days! The power goes off quite frequently and often we have no water, so there have been quite a few days without a shower!?! The lady we are staying with is a widow named Mary and is an amazing, wise old Kenyan woman who keeps us very informed and makes sure we get lots to eat! Any ideas I had about coming back five kilos lighter have gone right out the window! We are eating really well...although it's very basic food and really healthy as it's all from the farm. So plenty of beans, corn, potatoes and fruit! (Can't wait for some cheese and biscuits and a glass of Sav Blanc!) Ha! The children's home is about 10 minutes away and we usually walk half an hour each day to catch a Matatu - which is their main form of transport...little mini busses which they pack to the rafters with people (literally). They are really smelly (especially when you are wedged under someone's arm pit) and drive like utter maniacs! Most try to rip us 'tourists' off but we've learned the tricks of the trade and are pretty firm with them now. If it's raining, we get driven in the back of a pick up truck to school and we always get picked up each night! Usually going a different route each way, just in case we are being watched. So back to the children's home...it is like a mini farm with a few cows, a field of corn and is really quite tranquil (if you can look past the poverty)! The kids are absolutely brilliant! So very talented and LOVE having visitors. (Most volunteers they've had in the past have been Italian so they are quite intrigued by us three Aussies!) We are starting to really connect with them now, it's a slow process as a lot of them don't speak English so well. They range from six to about 19 years old. It amazes me how they are all so ambitious and most want to be doctors, lawyers (even a news reader)! Secondary school is very expensive though and college is really out of the question for many. Ironically all of them are not orphans, strictly speaking - a lot of them have a family member alive but believe it or not they feel they would do better off in a home like this. We have been working really hard during the day trying to tidy things up for them and make their life a little easier. We pulled all their rundown, rather grotty old bunk beds outside earlier this week and cleaned them, sanded and painted them all - just to freshen things up for them. They are so thrilled. (So if you need any painting in the future, I think after 22 bunk beds, I'm your gal!!) ha ha! We plan to buy them some new sheets as most don't have any, let a lone a pillow. Tomorrow, we are taking them all on a picnic down to the river. Hence why we are in town today...and I'm on the internet. We are getting all the "party food" we've decided to make hotdogs, given they live on stodge - (their diet pretty much involves any combination of maize, beans, potato and cabbage, x 2 daily.) They also love fruit and never get it and there is plenty here....On that note, I have never peeled so many vegetables in my life!! (And all with a broken knife that has no handle!) Everything is so primitive, not to mention the cooking, which is done over fire in massive steel pots. They wash everything by hand with a bar of soap...including these steel pots. The kids do ALL the cleaning...as soon as they are home from school, they are non stop busy for about two hours, doing everything from hand washing and gardening to cooking dinner! The elders basically sit around and 'supervise.' We are trying to help them as much as we can, while we're here. We're also walking A LOT ....have been visiting local schools - taking uniforms, clothes, blankets, toothpaste etc for those who live with guardians but are sponsored by the orphanage. Yesterday we walked for miles in scorching heat with tonnes of bags!.....The kids totally freak out when they see us...most have never seen a white person, so come screaming and running at us. Then they are scared to touch us, but once they do, EVERYONE wants to shake your hand. In fact most adults in the region have never seen a "Muzungoo" (white person) so yell this out at us frequently....it's like being a monkey in a zoo! We end up having to greet everyone we see in the local tribal language "kikuyu." There are around 42 tribes in Kenya...which are basically split into regions....each has their own language...and Swahili is the national language and the children are all taught in English. So I have to say, I'm having an amazing experience. Each day there is something new to learn and see. The people really are friendly and I feel a lot safer than I thought. Having said that, EVERYONE you cross paths with asks you to buy them something, whether it be food, a bike to a new house!! They think we are filthy rich and I guess compared to them we are. You can't go out alone at night though of course..... The main town is only 15 minutes away...it is just like a little country town....but sooo rundown...the shops are very bizarre....I think a picture will have to illustrate that one!" What about you? Have you taken a career break? Did it change your life? Perhaps you've been thinking about doing it for ages? I hope I've inspired you! This is your chance to do something truly extraordinary! … [Read more...]
Will the Real China Please Stand Up!
Do you want to see the real China? You do? Ok, listen up. When you’re planning your itinerary, naturally you want to tick off the big kahunas - Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong…. maybe even Guangzhou or Shenzhen are on your sticky beak list. And you should. These cities are buzzing with all the trappings of the 21st Century! Reaching for the future with all the gusto of a dog digging for a bone; they are definitely not to be missed. But what about a peek into life further inside China’s colossal Middle Kingdom? A place, that for all its tall buildings, fast train lines and mammoth crowds still bears the elements of a bygone era? A city with 8-million people standing alone in the north west of China -- Xi’an, to this day remains relatively isolated from other major cities. And that is proving both good and bad (depending on how you look at it)! For the purposes of capturing a place in time, it’s perfect. Xi’an is a city that even today remains (largely) untouched by many outside influences. Sure, there are the usual western decadences in evidence, but it was only the early 2000’s when McDonalds first arrived in Xi'an; rewind a decade ago and there were just a couple of five star hotels, at best... and very little else in the way of global brands. That said, Xi’an is in the midst of an enormous growth spurt that will put her on track for a prosperous future; Ikea has just landed and a W Hotel is under construction! But despite this and brands like Starbucks popping up (literally) on every corner (and a few Sterbucske), by and large Xi’an has retained her country town 'China' feel…. It is a place where time stands still. (Only the myriad of cranes and high-rises tell you otherwise!) Just 20 years ago, Xi’an was a city without cars on the roads. Today, it's a different story...the city's roads are teeming with drivers weaving and honking to their heart's content! But they are still grappling for a place amongst the two wheelers! I’ve been to quite a few bigger cities in China this year and nowhere have I seen so many people on two (or three) wheels rolling along the streets. Not new, shiny, sleek state of the art pedalling machines either; most pushbikes are old, rusty and rattly, some barely hanging together. Motorbikes too. The ubiquitous cigarette dangling from many a driver's mouth; bikes piled high with everything from planks of wood, boxes of fruit & veges - to people (four huddled together on the bike, no problems)! Basically anything that can balance precariously on the back (or front) with just enough room to see the road in front is allowed. The scene only adding to the city’s provincial charm. The pace is slow…the frenzied urgency required of a big city still hasn’t penetrated into Xi’an’s psyche. Add to the enchantment, the fact that the city still retains much of its imperial architecture….and many new buildings (high rises aside) are being built with the very same oriental structures, and of course the omnipresent red lanterns that dangle from many a shop front - all making you actually feel like you are in the far East. There is still a ramshackle presence to many parts of China; and here in Xi’an there are as many manicured streets as there are bedraggled. Thick black scruffy power lines drape themselves recklessly through trees, while shabby shop fronts and market stalls are sandwiched tightly between new designer shopping centres. Delve just a few blocks from suburbia and you’ll find small rural like villages marching to a different beat. Tuk Tuks chugging in and out….stalls selling local fare and at the end of the street, a sky-high pile of trash - this is the local rubbish tip! While it seems that in a person's daily life here, things are tightly controlled, there is also a (fresh) air of freedom! No helmets, no seat belts, drive however, whenever….sleep wherever, whenever….squat wherever! Early in the morning, every open space is littered with bodies dancing in unison - sometimes it’s the elderly doing Tai Chi, other times it’s a bunch of young chefs or real estate agents getting the day started by knocking out some fast moves to Gangnam Style tunes. (And let’s not forget those random fire crackers I’m always harping on about.) Elderly people congregate in exercise parks, enthusiastically giving each machine a vigorous workout while chatting animatedly with their friends; Mahjong games are underway on street pavements and some people are already sleeping, their heads resting on whatever they can find. Unlike other many other larger Chinese cities, street food carts are still allowed prime position across town. Whether it’s outside one of the city's biggest tourist attractions, at the front of a shopping centre, next to KFC, or just on the side of the road to catch passers by for breakfast…these street food carts are a daily staple for locals. You don’t come to Xi’an for a fancy restaurant (apart from the Westin of course)! ;) For the most part, dining out involves traditional Chinese food. A local hole in the wall with spicy hotpot, bbq meat skewers, cold noodles, dumplings and steamed pancakes & burgers, Shaanxi style! The people of Xi’an are still governed strongly by tradition…whether it’s illness (break a bone you stay home for 100 days) doing business (nourishing relationships is crucial - often better served with some cold hard cash)….or family ties. Grandparents live with most families and take care of the children. Many parents live out of town, for work. There is a distinct lack of exposure to the outside world (remember there’s no Google and no media that isn’t condoned by the government)….and travel whilst booming (comparatively) is still limited. For a lot of older locals, the western face is still an enigma. Outside the hotel bubbles and some cafes, English is minimal and while for a foreigner living here, it can be about as difficult as climbing Mt Everest, it only reminds you, this is quintessential China. With an unrivalled history, Xi’an is more than just the breath-taking Terracotta Warriors…...enveloped by stunning mountains, Xi’an is peppered with ancient monuments and historical sights - from the ancient city wall, to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, the first Chinese Emperor’s tomb, the Muslim Quarter, museums, hot springs and lakes. There are just four first tier cities and around two dozen second tier cities and today more and more international airlines are launching flights into these 2nd tier Chinese cities; recognising that they also have a lot to offer the avid traveller. Much to my delight, Cathay now flies from most major cities with direct flights to Xi'an Steal a glimpse into a China that still holds on to a rare simplicity and innocence. (Note: This is not just a ploy to get you to come and visit me!) ;) This is (real) China! WHAT TO DO: 48 Hours in Xi’an WHAT TO PACK: Top 10 Things to Pack … [Read more...]
Visit Beijing: The World’s Super City in the Making!
Beijing doesn’t beep! Ok, so I'm assured they do! But given we arrived to a city in virtual lock down, it was a refreshing reprieve from the ‘ear-splitting,’ unrelenting honking that explodes from every corner of Xi’an. It still intrigues me, that every time we’re introduced to a new city in China (let’s not forget there are 656) they are each “jaw-droppingly” unique. Beijing was always at the top of the China bucket list. How could it not be….. the great political hub, the capital of the so-called ‘Motherland’ - a cultural cradle and the heart of the world’s fastest growing economy; not to mention, the centre piece of world-wide speculation and interest. By the way (trivial fact) did you know Beijing was also known as Peking? (A translation thing which saw it spelt differently over time!) (Ahhh so that’s why it’s famous for Peking Duck!) Of course, we arrived at a time when Beijing admittedly wasn’t her true self. She had important visitors in town from all over the globe, so had gone to great lengths to impress with a stunning makeover. Forget the ominous, thick haze of grey smog that more often than not drapes itself over the mighty metropolis; brilliantly clear blue skies decorated a peaceful, traffic-jam free city. Fiercely proud and patriotic locals, prepared for the grandest military parade the country had seen in a decade. (For more on that you can read this post here.) Nonetheless, gussied up or not, Beijing was always bound to be a compelling entity. Standing tall in the country’s far north, Beijing is the chalk to Shanghai’s southern cheese. Inhabiting a population of 21-million, just four million shy of her sister city, at face value, instead of the sleek, futuristic, flamboyant facade of Shanghai, Beijing exhibits an historical charm reminiscent of an ancient China that bears the hallmarks of a 3000 year old history. Not unlike a bigger version of her little sister, Xi’an - Beijing’s concrete jungle is punctuated with remnants of a bygone era. Temples, tombs, walls, gates and palaces all featuring the unmistakable mark of Imperial China. Home to seven UNESCO World Heritage sites, there are some exemplary places to tick off your sight-seeing list. Admittedly, we failed a few on our brief visit, given the timing of our trip. Mental note: city in lockdown for biggest parade in ten years has both advantages and disadvantages. (Not to mention numerous time wasting trips to the embassy to renew passports, which can't be done when you live in the middle of China!) Nonetheless a national holiday had its advantages - being able to actually see the majestic mountains that surround the city in the north and north west was one such perk. Little traffic on the roads meant getting around was relatively quick. So, a Google search will no doubt bring up the big must see sights. I've got a few here for you plus my tips. (Grab your pen and paper.) The Forbidden City Lying in the historical heart of Beijing, this is an enormous palace compound that was once home to the emperors of China’s Ming and Qing Dynasties. The Palace Museum itself holds imperial collections of Chinese art …and surrounding the Forbidden City are several imperial gardens, parks and scenic spots. You can easily spend all day wandering around here, if imperial art is your cup of tea, otherwise a quick wander through is probably sufficient. This was also the ceremonial and political centre of Chinese government for almost 500 years. Tip: Tourists can only enter from the South Gate. (Side Note: in addition to the Palace Museum, if you like looking at ancient relics and cultural milestones, there are a "gazillion" museums in Beijing!) Tiananmen Square This is also in the heart of Beijing just south of the Forbidden City. Here you’ll find the monuments to the heroes of the revolution, The Great Hall of the People (where the National People's Congress is held and also where state leaders hold diplomatic meetings), the National Museum of China, and the Chairman Mao Zedong Memorial Hall (with Mao's embalmed body, no less)! It’s one of the top five largest city squares in the world and is of course peppered with many moments of great cultural significance. Most notably (outside China) the protests of 1989, which China today doesn’t formally recognise. Tip: You can see this place within a relatively short time frame. Mostly it's about standing their and soaking up the history that has unravelled in such a poignant place in time. To the west of Tiananmen Square is Zhongnanhai, the headquarters of China's current Communist Party of China. Time permitting, you might want to take a peek. Summer Palace This is in the west of the city and was once the place for emperors of the Qing Imperial Family to escape to for a summer retreat. (I can just see them in their silk robes, gliding through the gardens, Pina Colada in hand.) Inside you’ll find a maze of gardens and temples that surround a lake filled with boats of all shapes and sizes chugging around. You could spend a whole day here, just ambling along, soaking up the sunshine. (If you can see it!) In 1998, UNESCO declared the Summer Palace "a masterpiece of Chinese landscape garden design." The design was based on a legend in Chinese mythology about three divine mountains in the East Sea, while the lake is actually based on the blueprint of Hangzhou’s West Lake. The minute we entered it was a case of deja vu. (Just quietly I think Hangzhou's lake is slightly more impressive.) Check it out here. The Great Wall There is a saying “One who fails to reach the Great Wall is not a true hero.” That said, If you do one thing in Beijing, it’s clearly a visit the Great Wall of China. Luckily for us, we managed to make the mandatory trek…..and what a breathtaking one it was. The world’s longest human made structure snakes across the historical northern borders of China from east to west, for almost 9000 kilometres. Standing on the steps (some half a metre high) looking at it weaving across the lush, rugged land it’s hard to comprehend it’s history and reach. Made largely of rammed earth and stone, it was originally built as several separate walls owned by separate empires to protect against raids and invasions, but was later joined together to be known collectively as the Great Wall. Today little of it remains but those parts that are standing have been rebuilt and maintained. In China they call it (長城, changcheng) Long Wall and there’s no denying it is an admirable part of China’s history and future. There are several points around Beijing from which you can visit the wall. We chose to go to Mutianyu, about a two and a half hour (steep and twisty) drive from the city centre. At Mutianyu you have the option of taking a cable car or ski type chair lift up. Of course, as panicked as the latter made me, it was an exhilarating ride. Coming down there is the unexpected option of a toboggan ride! Much to my relief disappointment, it started raining rendering the slippery slope unrideable! A white knuckle chair lift ride back down was our only option. Nonetheless up on the wall, it was truly spectacular and hard going. Note: Trekking this is not for the faint hearted. Wear sneakers! Legend has it, the Great Wall is visible from space, and even though this has been debunked many times, it’s still ingrained in popular culture. Tips: If you are with a driver, opt to eat at Subway. Sounds strange, I know! But this buys you a ticket to drive right up to the gates into the wall. Otherwise you are stuck down at the parking lot waiting for a shuttle bus up, which can be considerably lengthy. If you do have a driver/guide take you to the wall (which costs around 600-1000RMB) and you don’t want to make numerous stops along the way, be sure to make this clear or like us you’ll end up at money making ventures like the Jade shop wondering why you’re staring at giant Jade elephants with shop assistants a millimetre behind, just in case you make a random decision to take one home (which of course if that’s your thing, by all means do!) Hutongs Of course Beijing is not just about the mighty monuments. There are plenty of other things to see including roaming through the city’s dwindling number of Hutongs. These are the old style alley ways that have traditionally been formed by lines of ‘siheyuan’ - courtyard residences - which are sadly being replaced rapidly with modern day high-rises. Hutongs are usually straight and run east to west so the doorways face north and south for good Feng Shui! Laced with shops, restaurants and bars, you need to wander through these to get a feel for life in old China. Priceless. Beijing National Stadium (The Bird's Nest) To the north of the city centre is the antithesis to Beijing’s ancient monuments, the city’s contemporary answer to its architectural heritage. Today a tourist attraction it was built as the city’s National Stadium for the 2008 Olympic Games. The unique structure that looks like bird’s nest came from the design team studying Chinese ceramics! It's huge and covers an area of about 258 thousand square meters! Note: It also boasts the largest ski resort in urban Beijing! So, if you're up for some skiing..... You can also check out the National Aquatics Centre, affectionately known as the "Water Cube" next door! Sanlitun This is Beijing’s cool spot. A haven of quirky bars mixed with chic designer stores and hip eateries, Sanlitun is a haven for expats. Take an early evening wander, grab a coffee or cocktail and soak up the civilisation. Of course if you’re in Beijing it’s also mandatory to eat Peking Duck! Hot tip from a resident who highly recommends ‘Jing Zun’ on Chunxiu Lu in Sanlitun. The verdict: cheap and tasty! Beijing Zoo If the sight of another cultural relic is all too much for the kids, take them to Beijing Zoo… it’s the biggest in China and has pandas!! Chaoyang Theatre Acrobatic Show There’s also a pretty impressive acrobatics show. As one of the oldest performing arts practiced in China, the spectacular skills honed over centuries are on display in this entertaining show. The kids will love you for it and may let you visit one more museum. While English is definitely much more widely spoken than it is in, say Xi’an, it’s still rather limited. Knowing a few key phrases and having your hotel written in Chinese is invaluable. With 2000 new cars on the roads each day, traffic is subsequently jammed! They call it the "Capital of traffic jams!" (Except when there’s a great big public holiday in place and roads are closed!) Avoid peak hours. Pedalling is still a prime mode of transport (although I will say, there are many many more bikes on the roads in Xi’an - which is probably because Beijing thankfully has a pretty efficient subway and bus system.) You can buy a train ticket from any underground station machine (English available) for the inner city for around 5 yuan. If you take a taxi, don’t make the mistake we made and jump in a taxi without checking it’s legit. After a long, hot and rather sweaty stroll around the Summer Palace we were itching to get in a taxi and get home. We thought we’d hit the jackpot when we walked out and saw a taxi literally waiting for us. (Bad move!) Even though he mumbled something about VIPs and casually pointed to his 'special' badge (minus picture) dangling in the window, I paid no attention, just relieved the taxi didn’t smell and had seat belts! It was only when the metre rapidly shot up we knew something wasn’t quite right. He refused to drop us out the front of the hotel (no doubt because of security cameras) and tried to charge us three times the price. Scammed! Note: legal taxis all have 京B at the beginning of the number plate. Steer clear of the ‘black’ taxis with fake meters. Alternatively use Uber or hire a driver at a relatively cheap cost. Getting to Beijing is easy. Internationally most countries fly to the ancient capital; from within China you can fly or take a train to Beijing from most major cities. From Xi’an we got the bullet train. Cheaper, efficient, fast and a lot less hassle than a flight. Note: Children under 1.2 metres tall are free….but this means no seat! Not ideal on a long journey. Much to the ticket office’s perplexity we paid for the small (but extremely wriggly) person to have her own seat. Beijing for all intents and purposes is a city that packs a mean punch. In 2013 it had more Fortune 500 company headquarters than any other city in the world. In the next decade it is predicted it will be the largest economy in the world. It’s a bustling melting pot of the old versus new…locals say it’s a city on the verge of losing its authenticity, as it hurtles towards the future at full throttle - the great capital of a rising world power. There are ambitious plans in place to see Beijing become the world’s Super City - boasting a whopping population of 130 million! A mega city called Jing Jin Ji (wrapping together the cities of Beijing, Tianjin and Hebei) is already in the making! Currently, Beijing is one of the most visited cities in the world. If you’re up for the adventure, put it on the bucket list. This is China. … [Read more...]
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