“Ummm….you want her to do what, where?!” “On an A4 piece of paper, no less?!” The doctor’s office, Xi’an circa 2015. Ask any expat in Xi’an, what their worst fear is, living in China….and usually at the top of the list (next to pollution) is: getting sick! Or even worse, your kids getting sick. I’m not gonna lie, healthcare in China, well, second-tier China at least, is not as we know it. The inevitable language barrier only adding to what can range from a rather amusing experience (you can read all about a couple of such trips to the local doctor we had here, including our visa medical) to a downright terrifying one! Rewind this time 12 months ago and my ‘Small Person’ got sick with gastro. A bug that literally debilitated her for about five days…and then of course went through most of the family including our visitors (an expat’s second worst nightmare)! With no sign of improvement it was time to get our three year old to a local doctor, which in China usually means the hospital. With me down and out, wavering in and out of any coherent ability to function, the hotelier had the unenviable task of dragging her out of bed and taking her to the one and only English speaking doctor in the city. On cue she was asked to give a number two sample. All relatively straightforward, I guess…except for the small fact that she hadn’t eaten for days, so this was about as likely to happen as a China winter with no pollution! Alas, this small but pertinent issue aside….she was encouraged to produce it there and then, IN the doctor’s room, ON the doctor’s floor, ON a piece of A4 paper (actually, make that half a piece of A4). What I would give to see the look on the hotelier's face! ;) Thankfully that and the time we had to take Small Person with croup in to the hospital to use their nebuliser (we’ve since invested in our own to save on the trauma) means our hospital experiences have been limited. For other expats, it seems lessons have been learned. A recent Facebook status by a fellow expat says it all: “My boy fell and split his head open, we opted to try and fix it ourselves to avoid the trauma of a Chinese hospital.” Expats who live here for any length of time become masters at diagnosing and treating themselves with a host of medical supplies they’ve stocked up on from back home. I’ve even heard the story of one woman who’s been here for eight years and literally lanced and sterilised her child’s infected toe, herself! The trauma of this far less than the ordeal of visiting a local hospital. Another friend went to the doctor about a small gastro problem (unfortunately more common than us Wai Guo ren (foreigners) would like) and was promptly admitted to hospital, indefinitely. In what could be the worst situation to be sans toilet paper, his bathroom was devoid of all manner of toilet accessories! (BYO?). And to top if off, his only option for dinner, extremely spicy, pickled food. Not so soothing for the Du zi (tummy). Needless to say, he checked himself out, pronto! A girlfriend’s little girl contracted pneumonia, which here in China means a daily trip in to the hospital to be treated with intravenous antibiotics. Oral antibiotics aren’t given out and there is only one type of broad spectrum antibiotic used for all of the potentially different strains. After three days of sitting in a chair lined up with a bunch of other sick children, her little hand taped to cardboard and the IV inserted, they insisted she be admitted to hospital. (FYI children under the age of two have the IV drip administered in their forehead! Not the most comfortable or comforting sight!) My friend had the good fortune of being in a private hospital, which of course, like anywhere in the world is more often than not a step up from the public hospital. Even better at 600RMB a night, it was the VIP room. Still, no food was supplied….and it was BYO towels, soap....and Dettol. While you might be expecting hygiene in a hospital (of all places) to be up to scratch…let’s just say, here, in China, it’s not exactly an environment awash with disinfectant. My friend was partially relieved to see a mop present, but that relief was short-lived when she realised it was used (usually minus cleaning supplies) about as regularly as the sheets were changed….weekly! Another friend has regular medication she needs to go into hospital, to get, weekly (because they won't administer any more than a week's dose). There is one dosage administered for ALL patients regardless of the patient’s individual requirements. (Is it just me, or does this have disaster written all over it?!) And I'm guessing it's not a good sign when the doctor asks you 'which' medication you think you might need?! "Wait, what I have the flu and you want to give me an injection?" In China one such medical thought process is that an injection is far more beneficial because it enters the bloodstream quicker than oral antibiotics. In all reality, if someone is seriously ill, most expats won’t hesitate to fly themselves or their children out to a major city like Hong Kong for treatment. Thankfully there is a medical helpline called International SOS, whom most foreign companies are affiliated with. You can call up and speak English to professional doctors and send x-rays and test results to them to garner a second opinion, anytime you need to. They’ll also arrange for you to fly out. (Note: make sure you have international health insurance because without it, anything like this costs a small fortune and local health plans generally won’t cover evacuation or repatriation coverage)!! For anyone, it’s a frightening thought to be stuck in a foreign hospital, let alone one where you don’t speak the language and don’t understand the process…. health insurance is an expat's best friend the world over, here in China, it's a necessity - especially with international medical insurers offering direct settlement at expat-friendly hospitals like United Family Hospital and Parkway Hospital in first tier cities like Shanghai and Beijing. Handy to know, if you don't want to fly out in a non-emergency event. Despite these glaring anomalies that exist between the Eastern and Western medical worlds, healthcare in China has come a long way. The Chinese government recently declared the pursuit of “Healthy China 2020,” a program to provide universal healthcare access and treatment for all of China by the year 2020. As of now 95 per cent of Chinese have some form of health cover but as encouraging as that is, bringing a population of 1.3 billion people out of the third world and into the 21st Century is not without it’s challenges. While it means more locals than ever before now have access to major healthcare centres and hospitals - these centres are still playing catch up -- the number of properly trained doctors and nurses are struggling to keep pace with demand for care. In China, it's unusual to get a formal appointment, mostly its about lining up and that can mean standing in an overcrowded room for hours on end to register yourself and then pre-pay your account. Often, no matter how sick you might be, if there is no signature or no money, treatment is put on hold! Note: A) This is potentially a little tricky if you can’t read the forms and B) a little dangerous if it’s a life and death situation. Medical professors coming to Xi’an have declared the city 30 years behind in modern medical techniques. Unfortunately being a doctor in China is not all it's cracked up to be. It's not considered as prestigious a role as it is in the Western world and GPs are chronically underpaid. While the government caps the prices of common medicines, other prescriptions come with kickbacks for the doctor leading to overprescription of expensive drugs, imaging tests and unnecessary and lengthy hospital stays. (Have gastro, don't expect a quick exit!!) For many Chinese families, an emergency medical procedure means going into debt. There is still a widespread perception that to get top quality care you need to show doctors Guan xi (relationship) or hong bao — red envelopes stuffed with cash. A Chinese friend who had her baby in Xi’an a few years ago, had to do just this to make sure she could have her baby in what was deemed one of the city’s better hospitals. Hospitals in China are categorized through a system of numbers and letters, with the highest quality hospitals in the country being allocated the number 3 and the letter A. A 3B hospital will be slightly lower quality and 3C even lower still. Husband’s are still generally not allowed into the delivery room for the baby's birth….and the protocol is often on the patients to fend for themselves. My friend’s delivery was by no means straightforward and happened quickly. She had to hoist herself from the waiting bed to the delivery bed with no help whatsoever (mid labour)! (In China, most doctors won’t lift you for fear of being held liable, if something goes wrong.) The same happened when the hotelier was visiting a sick colleague in hospital (with a head injury, I might add) and he had to be lifted from one bed to another. His parents and my husband had the honours. During the delivery of my friend’s baby, the nurse refused to do a much-needed episiotomy unless she signed the papers, right then and there, during the height of labour!! No pen? What! Just reach for that handbag above your head! While you’re at it, be ready to write down the time, weight and date of birth yourself! (What do you think this is, a hospital!!??!) Perhaps as an expat, the best option is to stick with TCM - Traditional Chinese Medicine! Most hospitals also have a TCM section where you can have a consultation and purchase your remedies there and then. It is after all, considered China's national treasure. Proven over thousands of years, how can you go wrong? As they say....when in Rome..... This is China! Psst.. a new expat and (after i've scared the c--p out of you) need to look at health insurance plans?....This might help. … [Read more...]
Dressed for Success, at Face Value – China Style.
It all started with the frock. I was informed the theme for the event I would be hosting was “Hollywood”….. and yes, I realise Xi’an is about as far removed from the bright lights of tinsel town as you can possibly imagine, but who am I to shun a red carpet! Sequins and a long dress were the order of the day, both of which my closet sadly no longer possesses (bar that lone dress hiding in the back that quite possibly won’t do up any more...sshhh!) So, the quest was on to find a red carpet-worthy gown in downtown Xi’an. It quickly became apparent that it wasn’t going to be an easy task. Turns out (surprise, surprise) shops selling ‘ball gowns’ are few and far between. I’m told, ’Rent a dress’ is how it’s done. So, mad school drop off done, one smoggy morning; with my gorgeous Chinese friend in tow, we hit the city … A towering, rather majestic looking building is our first stop. Step inside and it’s like stepping into a chic palace, swathed in velvet…chandeliers glisten above lush carpets and more attendants than you might see on a first class flight, are hovering - fairy godmothers ready to turn you into Cinderella with a swoosh of their wands. Ushered upstairs, it is quite possibly every girl’s dream. Beautiful gowns in every shape, size and colour drape themselves exquisitely around the plush room. As we excitedly flick through the decadent options, it’s like being a kid in a candy store. There are plenty of “Oooohhs and aaahhhs, look at this! How about this?” First up, as all sensible girls do, we check the price…no - make that double check and triple check! This is China, after all - where misunderstandings rule the world. Now my Chinese is clearly not good enough to carry on a conversation as detailed as this, so with the help of my friend, we establish it is to be 300 yuan…full stop! Thats to try the dress on and take it home for the week. And, even if we don’t rent one, it’s still 300 yuan. Got it? Got it! That all seems fairly reasonable to me at around US$50, if not a little on the cheap side. But again this is Xi'an...for the most part, things are not expensive. So we get busy choosing possible candidates fit for a glamorous affair. The process not unlike trying on wedding dresses! Behind the velvet curtains, the shop assistant helps me into each dress…(wait did she just hoist my boobs up/ I think she did!…Reassure myself this is all part of her daily job). Dress on, some diamonte heels thrust at me, I’m told to stand on a boxed platform and voila the curtains are whisked open for me to display er… myself. Retails assistants snap away, jabbering excitedly in Mandarin. We try on about six dresses for size - why stop at one?!… Of course we are strictly told we are not allowed to take photos but my trusty sidekick snaps a few blurred shots for good measure. The assistant is clearly enjoying this as much as we are and starts bringing in crowns and jewels to wear… of which I politely tell her there will be no need for a crown. The service is second to none…they even tell us they will hem the dress to my requirements….we smile, chuffed with our find. Dress chosen, smugly happy with ourselves, we get organised and I reach for my purse. Suddenly I see my friend out of the corner of my eye looking slightly more animated, her previously relaxed poise stiffening …. I spot the calculator. (Here in China, many shops and stalls, no matter how big or small (unless they’re a global brand name with fixed prices) have a calculator close to hand - usually for bargaining). However knowing we’ve set our price at 300, when I hear the numbers 3500 I try not to let my eyes boggle, right out of my head. Remain calm I whisper under my breath. Just a deposit perhaps?? Extremely hefty.. but I guess….. it’s possible. They are nice frocks. But nope this is no deposit, there’s been a “misunderstanding!” As soon as I hear this, I know it’s time to throw in the towel. Misunderstanding is possibly the most frequently used word in China. Both in English and Mandarin! There are MANY many misunderstandings…constant misunderstandings on every level (just ask the hotelier whose days are filled with misunderstandings). I am still to work out if this is cultural or simply the fact that Mandarin as a language is open to much interpretation. In this case, it seems, the lovely retail assistant has (conveniently?!) failed to mention that each dress has a specific price, all ranging in the thousands on TOP of the 300! To 'buy' I question? Surely! No. This is not to buy. With a lucky discount of 20 per cent we may hire our chosen dress for 3400yuan. That’s more than US$500. Now clearly that obviously seems a little ludicrous… when you don’t get to keep that beauty in your closet and wear it again and again….and again. By now, my Chinese friend has raised her voice several decibels and is on the verge of tears, while the manager is brought in to appease us. But she nonchalantly points to the price on the price tag which is clearly no help to us…… All I can do is stand there with my hands on my hips and try to show my extremely forlorn, disappointed face. The fact that I am a Waigouren (White face) and therefore automatically deemed loaded is perhaps my downfall here. As we huff and puff and woefully get up to leave….dismayed and annoyed at half the day wasted….the banter continues between my friend and the sheepish assistant. I manage a ‘Bu Gaoxing’ (Not Happy) at her as we walk towards the door. One foot over the threshold and a calculator is again whipped out and suddenly thrust in our faces. It seems I am now allowed the dress for….wait for it…. 800yuan!! But I am only allowed it for 24 hours. Hmmm, ok, I nod…. well it’s still expensive and probably almost as much as what I’m being paid for the tinsel town gig, but with only a few days until the event, I decide it’s a much better option than turning up naked… and dam! I really like that dress! So, it seems the bitter sweet saga is over and the deal is done. We leave with our receipt and many apologies from the retail assistant. Unclear on what my friend said to get them to dramatically reduce the price, she tells me she mentioned something about them not paying tax and calling the bureau(?) and that clearly had them running for cover (or more importantly my dress). Clearly these prices are not fixed at all. Some research later tells me, they call this place the 'Dream Factory' in China. It's the place many young 'brides to be' come for their dream photo shoot. You can read more about how that works in this post here. Deep breaths, we leave and I quietly hope they have the dress ready for me on Saturday morning as promised and don’t decide they’ll pay the difficult white lady back for being so picky with the price and tell me it’s not available! A week passes and I arrive (nervously) to get my dress… all is ok but I’m told it needs to be taken downstairs for 15 minutes to be hemmed up. (Ahh you don’t think you could’ve done this before I picked it up.) I can’t say this in Mandarin, so I wait, fidgeting. Finally my dress is presented to me….not hanging gracefully as you might expect in such a glamorous shop for such an extravagant price, but rolled up, in a creased ball, in the bottom of a bag. Now if you don’t live in China you probably just think well, that’s a bit rude or unprofessional, or maybe they just think “$#*@ you lady!” Which is highly possible…. but in actual fact it is a small but very representative symbol of China itself. On the outside things often look extremely impressive, together….polished. But lurking beneath the surface it’s more often than not, a case of quantity not quality. It’s all about that little thing called “Face” which is probably the single most important thing in China. We all know 'first impressions' count, but China takes it to a whole new level. What comes after doesn't matter (so much). The event I MC for that night is not too different…. A beautiful grand ball room in a 5-Star hotel is presented to an excited crowd. Four (yes four - which is rather customary in China) glamorous (if I do say so myself, at this point!) Master of Ceremonies of different nationalities take to the stage…. Two of us are blonde with little Mandarin up our sleeves and it's about now I (rather naively) realise we are (whilst at an 'expat' event) standing in front of a largely Chinese audience. But this clearly does not matter because we are here for show! I'm told, Western faces automatically give every event that added ‘face value’ if you like. A small red carpet peeling off the floor the only evidence we are in Hollywood….but determined to embrace the glitz, I teeter up it in my shiny heels (secretly waiting for Channing Tatum to make his appearance, but alas, we are in China….he’s not coming.) A program listing stellar performances promises an entertaining evening, but I watch on in horror as the lectern nearly wobbles off the stage…..performers lug their own gear on stage and the agenda is hastily thrown out the window. Acts don’t turn up, some turn up twice. Wait, where’s the organiser? MIA. The audience doesn’t seem to mind the ‘Shamozal’ that ensues…. they swarm the buffet like it is possibly the last meal on earth and glug the jugs of red wine. Santa makes it into town and is literally crushed as the local kids pounce on him, almost swiping his sack from underneath him! My meek calls for them to line up sensibly, rather futile. The table is set but within the first hour looks like a mini tornado has swept through it (did I really just see a small child offered wine)?! I guess I fit in well… I have the fancy frock, but who knows I am only wearing one contact lens! My designated MC partner (who’s an English teacher and never MC’d before) is politely both astounded and amused. I tell him, “Don’t worry, it’s all about Face!” This is China. … [Read more...]
20 Top Tips for Booking a Hotel! (From the hotelier’s wife…)
As the hotelier's wife, I’m privy to a few inside whispers…and you’ll be pleased to know, over the years, I’ve been secretly stashing them in the vault, otherwise known as my 'hotel file.’ (Shhh…don't tell the hotelier.) As an expat for almost five years, we've been ultra privileged to travel around Asia and beyond a significant number of times, as a single couple - but mostly with the 'Small Person.’ From city to the beach stays, I've collected a few worthy pieces of info along the way. And the small but handy fact, that we now live in a hotel has also served me well on the advice front. With that in mind, I thought it was high time I shared my two cents worth, (for what it's worth)! A few sneaky tips to think about next time you're planning your holiday and want to book a hotel. #1 GET LUCKY IN THE LOW SEASON When you book your holiday, if it's possible (and I know, often it's not with school holidays, work etc) DO pick the low season - even holidaying just before or just after a major holiday will get you a better deal and a higher possibility of a room upgrade. #2 THE HOTEL WEBSITE IS YOUR BEST BET With the big chain hotels, in theory you shouldn't be able to find a cheaper rate on a third-party website; most big players have 'best rate guarantee' where they guarantee the lowest rate through their own channels. Booking with a third party can mean you're provided with a less impressive room and receive less recognition as a guest. Tip: It pays to challenge the rate you see on the website. #3 PRE-PAY FOR LESS If you pre-pay your booking in advance, you should generally get a better room rate…anything between ten and 50 per cent cheaper than the going rate is possible. Ask if they have a pre-paid rate or check the website. #4 INVESTIGATE YOUR DESTINATION When booking a hotel, be sure to check off the dates you're going with the local calendar. For example, religious holidays could mean everything's closed down for the day/week; public holidays (especially in China) might mean your hotel is inundated with a plethora of frenzied guests. Check the weather and try to avoid typhoon season or the wet season. Note: Typhoon season doesn't have to mean bad weather and can mean lower rates. Check whether you need a visa for your port of call as well, as often these can take time to process. #5 RESEARCH REAPS REWARDS If you haven't heard about your hotel of choice through word of mouth, it pays to research your preferred destination on line with reputable travel sites like Trip Advisor or Ctrip. Get the lowdown warts and all. See what other travellers think. #6 FRIENDLY FLIGHTS Before you fall in love with a holiday destination and start dreaming of long walks on the pristine beach, check flights including any connecting flights to make sure it's doable and won't cost the earth. Sometimes the hotel's dirt cheap but just getting there costs a small fortune. If you're only going for a few days, budget flights can be at more unsociable hours, making it a marathon effort to get there. Is it worth it for just a few days? #7 RESORT VERSUS CITY Be clear in your mind about what you need. If you have kids, resorts are more inclined to have a 'Kid's Club'…..less so an 'Executive Club.' Look for brands that have kid's programs and remember not all will have a baby sitting agency. A lot of hotels have a policy where they can't recommend baby sitters for fear of liability. Be aware if you do choose a resort holiday…it may well be a beautiful resort in the middle of nowhere, but this will also mean your dining options are limited. The hotel knows this all too well and the cost is likely to reflect this. #8 EXCHANGE RATE EXPECTATIONS It pays to check the exchange rate before you travel so you know whether eating out and activities are going to be more expensive than you expected. #9 A HEALTHY START AT A HEALTHY RATE Ordering breakfast daily in advance, so it's included in your room rate, will be more cost effective than paying at the restaurant door or at check in. If you haven't, on your check in, it's well worth asking if there's a special rate given if you sign up for daily breakfast then and there. #10 EXECUTIVE CLUB ENTRY If you plan on spending quite a bit of time in the hotel, eating breakfast and indulging in a few evening beverages, paying the extra to be part of the Executive Club is worth it. It includes free breakfast and a drink or two plus snacks in the evening. Note: Many hotels don't allow children in their executive clubs. #11 FAMILY FACTS Bigger families often need interconnecting rooms and a lot of hotels simply don’t have the right configuration for an average family. If you book a 'Twin Room' the 'single' beds in ‘higher level’, newer hotels are bigger than average and usually fit two of you. Note: Sometimes it's cheaper to purchase a suite rather than two interconnecting rooms. #12 ROLL-AWAY BEDS AREN'T FREE If you have kids, it pays to ask whether the room has a sofa bed. You will more often than not be charged for an extra roll-away bed - which is surprisingly not always cheap. Alternatively, check if the room has enough space for a blow up bed…otherwise if there's a king sized bed, perhaps there's no need for that extra sleeping space. Some hotels (if they know you have additional people in the room) will try to charge for extra linen. #13 NEW BABY IN TOW Often you're better paying that bit extra for a higher standard hotel. They will have baby bottle sterilisers, cots, high chairs, and can bring microwave ovens to the room for heating food. #14 A BALCONY WITH BENEFITS If you have children, it's often good to have a balcony…even a little one. At least you've got somewhere to go when you've put the kids to bed instead of sitting in the dark, barely breathing in case junior wakes up! If you've got a little one, still sleeping in a cot you can always wheel them into the walk-in-wardrobe until you go to sleep so it's quieter for them and you can at least watch TV. (Naturally I'm not condoning locking them in for the night!) #15 SWIMMING CHECK In Asia, in particular, a lot of swimming pools are indoors, so if you plan on a relaxing holiday in the sun….check first. If you're in a resort make sure the hotel has free towels and kid's toys. #16 MINI BAR MISHAPS Watch out! A lot of mini bars in big hotels these days are automated. This means if you remove anything from it - you will be automatically charged. Checking out the local brew could prove to be a costly exercise. If it's not automated, why not stock the bar with your own beverages. Stop off in duty free and grab a couple of your favourite bottles. A lot of country's high import taxes mean alcohol can be notoriously expensive in a hotel. #17 WATER WOES Just because a hotel has a 5-Star rating doesn't mean their water is 5-star quality. Hygiene standards differ greatly depending on the country you're in and some sewerage systems are more antiquated than others making the water unsafe to drink or even brush your teeth. Do your research. #18 COMPLIMENTARY STUFF At most big brand hotels, kids between three and 12 years old eat for free at the hotel buffet restaurant. Most big hotels have complimentary bottles of water, but be careful - there is often a mix of complimentary and charged mineral water in the room. The charged for bottles usually have a tag displaying the charge. (You didn't hear this from me, but if you hide the water bottles, you'll get more delivered.) ;) Many hotels will have a free shuttle bus to take you to and from town or into the hub of your surroundings. #19 INTERNET Make sure you know in advance whether the internet is free or not. Many luxury hotels still charge and this can sting you financially if you're unaware. Some of the big players include free wifi if you book through their own website #20 LOYALTY COUNTS It's well worth signing up to the hotel's loyalty program, if they have one. Why? Lots of perks including the chance to get a better room, a discount off your food and beverage, potentially free internet and less chance of getting moved if the hotel overbooks! Happy Holidays from Mint Mocha Musings: The Hotelier's Wife, An Expat Affair in Asia Psssst.... If you think someone else might benefit, please share it. That would mean a lot to me! ;) … [Read more...]
Music, Mirror Balls and Microphones: This is China’s Most Popular Pastime!
Just quietly, I had been avoiding her like the plague! It wasn’t easy though….everywhere I looked, every corner I turned, there she was. Standing tall, bold and brassy…. Her name staring down at me, beckoning me to see what all the fuss was about. They call her, KTV. Westerners may know her by another name. Karaoke. It’s not that I don’t like a good sing-a-long….but considering I’m tone deaf, these are normally held in the privacy of my own home. So, I was at a bit of a loss as to why KTV had her clutches on most of the Chinese population’s social life. Outside of Tai Chi and drinking tea, KTV reigns supreme across most of Asia. For Chinese locals, KTV is their answer to our night at the pub or that slick new cocktail bar. KTV is a beacon of light where anyone can feel like a super star, week days, week nights, weekends! Whether you’re young or old, a student, a mum, a businessman or the CEO, KTV enthrals them all with her razzle dazzle. Birthday, business meeting, staff get together or hot date with your other half….KTV is your girl. Trivial fact - a survey in 2013 found there were almost 20-thousand KTV’s in China. So when my expat friends announced a big KTV night out for a birthday party, my stomach did a little flip flop…. but admittedly I was also curious to see why she was so dam popular. Step inside the KTV realm and her charm is evident. Chandeliers glisten in the foyer; neon lights fuel the anticipation. (Of course in true Asian style, she also comes in a myriad of themes. Think Hello Kitty, The Lion King, Super Mario….vintage and super opulent!) The first thing that caught me by surprise was the mini supermarket. I guess I was expecting a bar of some description not a 7/11 perched amongst the glitz. This is where you grab your shopping cart and stock up with supplies, namely booze and snacks. The staff will then escort you to your own room. You see, KTV is all about privacy. Inside the massive building are dozens of smallish, sound proof rooms with their own Karaoke box. Oh and just for the record there are some KTV venues that offer more than a stage and some snacks. In some, I’m told, you get girls! Lines of women are brought in for your selection to ahem… “serve” you. Thankfully all that was brought into us was the shopping carts, packed with our goodies. Including these tasty morsels. (Let's not mention the fact we were moved rooms due to our hostesses fear of us being electrocuted!?) Time to kick back and settle in on the leather bench seats that wrap around the room….which for all intents and purposes holds a myriad of mirror balls, microphones and maracas! OK, there aren’t maracas, that just sounded good... but there are tambourines! Which immediately piqued my interest. She can’t sing but she can shake!! There’s a small stage but mostly everyone’s in their seat or up on the dance floor, microphone in hand. We regrettably took kids, and it was head-splitting noisy, until they inadvertently found their own room! Hellelujah! A lot of the songs are naturally in Chinese, but there are also plenty of English pop songs to whisk you back to the eighties (just don’t expect too much in the way of music videos, apparently rights to use the footage is limited, making for some rather dodgy clips on display). That said, as soon as I heard Dirty Dancing’s 'Hungry Eyes' belt out from the machine, I was back in high school dreaming about Patrick Swayze... and I was sold! KTV you had me at hello! This is one cultural phenomenon I might embrace…..maybe. After all, this is China. … [Read more...]
Expat Life in Hong Kong Versus Mainland China: Is There a Difference?
Hell yes! I get asked the question all the time….and that's pretty much my answer! No, ok, so I do try to expand on that, but it's not quite that simple. I spent four years in Hong Kong and I won’t lie, I fell in love. Really, what’s not to love about the ‘City that Never Sleeps!’ I’ve written numerous posts on the mighty Kong…and all that it encapsulates and I’m sure my affection for the glittering harbour city leaps off the pages. The million dollar question: “Will I fall in love with Xi’an?” To be honest, probably not in quite the same way. But, (yes there’s a but)… I do know, that when it comes time to leave Xi'an -- this city will have snuck in and grabbed a little piece of my heart, craziness and all. Time does that. Often whether you like it or not. You make memories, good and bad….you form a bond with the city and its people…and before you know it, you find yourself being a little over protective about the new love in your life. Pollution?? What pollution! Pfftt! (She says choking through her new (stylish) mask!) But let’s get down to the nitty gritty, because despite both cities technically belonging to China, they are chalk and cheese! POLITICS Hong Kong is an SAR - Special Administrative Region of China which means it still (for all intents and purposes) governs itself but remains under the control of the People's Republic of China. Under British rule for 156 years, the great 'handover' to China took place in 1997. As you can imagine, this makes Hong Kong a fascinating blend between the East and the West. As you may also imagine, a large part of Hong Kong's population grapples with the idea of being under the Motherland’s umbrella… which as we saw with the protests last year, can create a lot of friction (to say the least). For more on the relationship between the two, you can read my post: Not Made in China. There's a somewhat icy relationship between the two and it shows no sign of thawing, admittedly more evident when you're in Hong Kong. In Xi'an many people have never even been to Hong Kong (one reason being: they are not allowed to fly directly) so to locals this 'fragrant harbour,' remains an enigma. For me, as an expat now living on the Mainland, the two governments make for some interesting lifestyle challenges differences. Whilst Hong Kong experiences the freedom of the Western world, the Communist Party of China's rules on censorship are strict and probably what affects my day to day activities the most. My regular haunts on the computer are banned (Facebook, Google, Twitter and many, many websites). Often news stories are only shared on television and in newspapers with a local twist (if they’re shown at all) making it difficult to stay in touch with the real world. Yet, Somehow I manage. ;) As for using the internet, at all.. let's just say it can be the stuff of genuine nightmares (first world problems I know)! But the government runs the only two internet companies and the connection is extremely patchy…(especially after coming from HK where the internet speed is amongst the fastest in the world)! In mainland China, your internet usage is also monitored (yes everything you are looking at, they're probably looking at too). The magic VPN’s help us connect with the outside world but the government is continually cracking down on these in a bid to make it increasingly difficult for foreigners to log on to their favourite spots. (And breathe!) LANDSCAPE Located in the south of China, Hong Kong is a harbour city, which means oodles and oodles of water, tropical islands, beaches, outdoor pools, junk boats, not to mention lush green mountains, all wrapping around a sparkling skyscraper city! Need I go on?! On the flip side, summer in Hong Kong is ridiculously humid, so humid you continually feel like you have just poured a bucket of warm water over your head and must make friends with the shower several times a day. It's also in the path of plenty of typhoons! (Mind you expats love this....a T8 means take the day off!) Xi’an on the other hand, is in the far north west of China, in fact it’s not all that far from the desert and is completely land locked! It’s not unlike a dust bowl. In the heart of the summer months with temps in the 40s for several weeks, the heat is dry and oppressive. Nonetheless, it boasts one of the most authentic Chinese looking cities on the map. Paved with stunning architecture and ancient monuments, this is the real deal! Winter in Hong Kong is relatively mild, whilst in Xi’an things step up a notch with minus temps and often snow. (Bring on the snow fights!) HISTORY Both cities are steeped in monumental history. Hong Kong boasts fascinating stories of powerful clans, marauding pirates and European traders. But when you're talking cities and history, Xi’an is hard to beat. It was the start of the epic Silk Road and has been the capital of China for 10 dynasties! It harbours some incredible sights that are thousands of years old (those famous Terracotta Warriors just one that brings millions of tourists here all year round). In both cities it's hard not to be swept up in their traditions, but Xi'an definitely captures a moment in time that nowhere else does. To that end, Xianese are fiercely proud. As an expat it's hard not to become enthralled with a city that has experienced so much. LANGUAGE Both country’s predominant language is Chinese, but in Hong Kong they speak Cantonese while in Xi’an (and the rest of China) it’s Mandarin (mind you there are many, many dialects)! Hong Kong still uses Traditional Chinese characters for writing, while the Mainland use what they call Simplified Chinese (if you can call anything about these complex characters, simple)! Hong Kong’s western roots means English is much more widely spoken. In Xi’an, not so much. Hence while I escaped the need to learn Cantonese in HK, here in Xi'an, learning Mandarin is virtually unavoidable. (For most expats, that can be both a good and bad thing!) ;) FYI: Both are what they call 'tonal' languages, Cantonese has nine different tones, Mandarin four (so I guess you could say, I’m lucky?!). Naturally this small but pertinent issue makes my daily life somewhat more challenging living in Xi’an. EXPATS Even the type of expats differ between the two cities. Of course, Hong Kong is king when it comes to being a haven for expats. There are around 300,000 currently calling the Fragrant Harbour home. In Xi'an, we are pushing 1000. As the world’s financial hub, Hong Kong is one of the most sought after cities in the world and consequently attracts expats from all over the globe, largely in professional roles like banking and IT. (1st tier Chinese cities, Shanghai and Beijing obviously boast bigger numbers.) In Xi’an, the majority of expats tend to be either teachers at international schools and universities or managers of some description at big factories like Samsung and Boeing. The very nature of both cities and their trades, means day to day lives are a little different. Picture a weekend in the Kong: Cashed up bankers roaming Lang Kwai Fong, swilling back a jelly shot or two; consuming copious amounts of dim sum for Sunday brunches in one of the city’s myriad of restaurants, often with a view over a stunning harbour…HK expats are filling up their lives with jaunts on Junk boats and heavenly high teas! I do jest, (just a little) but the clincher is, those champagne brunches are much more doable in a place like Hong Kong where most families have the privilege of a live in Domestic Helper (Nanny). In Hong Kong the helper is quite the phenomenon. Affordable and for most expats, compulsory. If you get caught up in Hong Kong's bubble you may find yourself living the highlife on more nights than is probably legal. No wonder there are 8000 restaurants in the Mighty Kong. Here in China they do have “Ai Yi’s” - the helper equivalent but they are more common in the bigger expat cities like Shanghai. They’re not really expensive but it’s less of the norm here for them to mind the kids, it’s more about some cleaning and possibly a bit of cooking, (if you can handle the local fare). And finding one that speaks any English round these parts is truly a rare commodity. So in Xi’an on the socialising front, more often than not you’ll find yourself at a friend’s home….(heck there really aren’t too many western restaurants in Xi’an with a view anyway!) It’s local Hot Pot and noodles all the way. No matter which country you're residing in, expats will tell you they rely on each other as their pseudo family. The more foreign the place, the more you need your peeps! REAL ESTATE In Hong Kong, it’s really no secret, it’s one of the most expensive places to live in the world. Rent is exorbitant and the return is usually a rather small shoe box for living quarters.. We lived on the 43rd floor of a smallish apartment building, next to the world’s 7th tallest building - it was conveniently located above a shopping centre, train station and host of international restaurants. In Xi’an, we live in a spacious apartment in a four story hotel, next to a 1300 year old Pagoda temple! There are shopping centres and street food carts at my door, not to mention cars driving on the footpath. (Did I mention room service?) What’s the difference in dollars? I’m talking around 5000 RMB rent a month in China compared to say 20,000 RMB in HK (on the cheaper side) — 10,000 RMB compared with around 60,000 RMB on the average side. The difference in price and space is quite remarkable! PUBLIC TRANSPORT Getting around Hong Kong is a no brainer. In truth, probably one of the easiest cities in the world. Geographically its small and that helps. The local MTR (subway) system is fast, efficient, cheap and simple. HK’s iconic red taxis crawl the roads 24/7 and are pretty reasonably priced. Here in Xi’an taxis are not so much part of the equation….for expats anyway. Firstly, because getting one is about as easy as climbing the Great Wall. One look at the foreigner and they’re scared off, for life. We have no clue how to tell them where we are going and they’re not going to get into that sort of predicament (which can also happen in HK I might add). The train system is reasonable but nothing compared to Hong Kong's; so it’s generally (extremely overcrowded) busses all the way, unless you’re game enough to jump into a Tuk Tuk (local three wheeler), or get yourself a scooter! A lot of expats in Xi’an have drivers (many come with the company contract) for the sheer fact that English is minimal and getting public transport isn’t easy; in theory it's great, but the inability to get around on your own can mean a lack of spontaneity! Some of the braver expats I know, ride bikes and scooters! Kudos to them! HEALTH Hong Kong's healthcare is considered to be up there with some of the best systems in the world. Its people have the longest life expectancy, so that's saying something isn't it! With numerous private hospitals that are predominantly state of the art, as long as you have health insurance, as an expat you are generally in good hands. There are a wealth of local GP's (many English speaking) and once you get used to them handing out your medication over the counter in tiny packets, it's pretty manageable. I had my daughter in a Hong Kong hospital, the doctors were first rate and the facilities were even better. In Xi’an it is rather a different story. Naturally the language barrier makes things difficult to begin with if you're a foreigner. While there is now an international hospital in Xi'an, most expats I've spoken with, if seriously ill, would choose to fly out of China. There is no such thing as a local GP, you generally go to the hospital for any of your ailments and see a doctor there. No appointment necessary, but potentially a long wait. Many of the treatments are quite different to those you would receive in the West as is some of the medication you'll be given. Hygiene as you might know it in the West, does not appear to be at the forefront of hospital staff minds. (Read more about it here.) For many expats living in China, outside a first tier city, healthcare is often the biggest concern. SHOPPING Ahhhh shopping….one of my favourite things... There's a good reason Mainlanders flock across the border at Shenzhen into Hong Kong, the shopping capital of the world where there are more LV stores than Paris! The tax on local products in China means it is more expensive in Xi'an and believe it or not, whilst everything is apparently "made in China" it's certainly not always available in China. Why? You can read about it here. Stocking up on supplies in Hong Kong has become a regular part of my life. (And to think when I first lived in Hong Kong, I would restock back in Australia.) In Hong Kong, the local Post Office is a world away from those 'one stop super stores' I know in Australia. Think your basic warehouse type scenario for ingoing and outgoing mail and nothing more. Sending and receiving mail is relatively cheap and easy though....although there are occasions when your mail can take weeks to arrive! In Xi'an receiving mail is like playing lotto! Highly unlikely it will arrive, but occasionally you get lucky. CULTURE Both cities have their cultural nuances. Hong Kong is filled with a world of oriental practices and traditions...Xi'an is heaving with its own ancient beliefs and colourful folklore. There is a distinct difference in world views. Most Hong Kongers have travelled outside of Asia, but in Xi’an very few know what life is like outside of China…and for them, this world they have been sheltered from is naturally a little intriguing and most likely a little intimidating. Most Xianese are content to spend the rest of their lives here. A world that is fascinatingly simple and sacred, as an expat daily interaction with locals is challenging for both language and cultural reasons. 'Face' plays a huge role in most Asian cultures but in Xi'an it's an integral part of everyday life. You never quite know what's going on behind the 'face'. It's in Chinese DNA not to say no. While Xian moves at a relatively slow, relaxed pace - in stark contrast the frenetic pace of Hong Kong is unrivalled. There's a reason they call Hong Kong the 'City that Never Sleeps.' FOOD Food style differs right across China from the North to the South. Each region has its own tried and true recipe for success. In fact there are eight culinary cuisines, check out a full post on Chinese food here. From delectable Dim Sum and BBQ pork in Hong Kong, to noodles and hot pot in Xi'an..everywhere is exceptionally different. Up north they like it hot and spicy. Very spicy! Which for this foreigner requires a fire hydrant of water at my side! You will find more western food available on the supermarket shelves in Hong Kong as opposed to Xi'an's, which mostly carry very local grocery items. Cucumber toothpaste anyone? Eating out in Xi'an has its plus side. It's ridiculously cheap! From street food to local hot pot or even the buffet in a five star hotel....prices are refreshingly low! Aside from local holes in the wall, the same really can't be said for Hong Kong. SCHOOLING The minute you give birth in Hong Kong, people will be asking you which school you've enrolled that new bundle of joy in to! No kidding! There are at least a dozen international schools and numerous local schools you can choose from. Despite the large number of facilities available, there are even more people wanting to enrol. With demand outweighing supply, the school entry system is cut throat and getting into the school of your choice takes meticulous planning and preparation (not to mention school interviews for kids often as young as two!) Schooling in Xi'an is rather limited. If it's not a local school (which is night and day when compared with a western school system -- longer hours, less play), there are just three international schools to choose from. However getting accepted is relatively straightforward. In fact, with a lot less expats in town, these schools are champing at the bit for western children to sign up and give their school that 'international feel.' There's no denying, despite both cities harbouring populations of around 8-million, Hong Kong's exposure to the western world and the world in general, as well as it's location and climate has seen it grow into Asia's World City. It definitely makes for easier living in many ways. Xi'an is still relatively untouched by the outside world and thus in many ways remains like a big country town. Tourism is bringing more and more global exposure in to the city ...and I'm intrigued to return in another decade and see the changes. It would be a big shame to see it lose its authenticity though. Depending on your desire, both cities offer completely different living experiences, in China! For us, both have been unforgettable posts in more ways than one! This is China. Where would you choose to live as an Expat? … [Read more...]
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