My thoughts are, most people are in one of two camps, those who bet…and those who don't. Me? I'm not a gambler per se, although I have been known to enjoy the odd flutter on the horses (truth be told, I owned a small share in a race horse once, possibly the most expensive thing I've ever owned)!! Oh, and in a past life, it's fair to say I was quite partial to bit of 'pokie-action' on the odd occasion! But for the most part, I've never been one to pull up a chair and lay down a few chips. Actually I wouldn't have the first clue about the process…do you even say that!? Admittedly though, it's a world that intrigues me. The actual origin of gambling is unknown. The Chinese recorded the first official account of the practice back in 2300 BC, but it's generally thought gambling in some form or another has been seen in almost every society in history. These days, when you think about the gambling mecca of the globe, I'm guessing the glitzy, bright lights of the 'Las Vegas Strip' spring to mind first, right? Me too! That is…. until I came to Hong Kong. It seems there's another gambling 'strip' on the world map and last year, this tiny pocket in Asia's South East generated no less than $45-billion in casino revenue! Wait for it…..that's SEVEN times more than Las Vegas' earnings. This oh-so-tiny speck on China's south coast they call Macau or Macao (the english spelling which is rarely used) may be no bigger than 30 square kilometres, but its strip - the 'Cotai Strip' - an area of reclaimed land that connects the two "islands" of Macau - Taipa and Coloane, is well and truly cementing its status as the undisputed heavyweight champion of the gaming industry. Now that my friends, is intriguing, yes? I'll preface this post by saying I've never actually gambled in this former Portuguese colony that sits at the mouth of the Pearl River. (No, I've been there on many a 'kid friendly' vacation - which, I'll admit, is not so bad either.) If you're interested, check out this post I wrote for Hong Kong site, Sassy Mama. Anyway, as I was saying, Macau was, until 1999, the last remaining European colony in Asia, having been administered by Portugal since the mid-16th century. Today, much like Hong Kong, it's been granted special SAR permission from Beijing, which means it's a Special Administrative Region. The 'one country, two systems' rule allows the city to run independently of its Motherland, China - with it's own currency, police force, legal system and immigration policy. You can read more about what it means to be an SAR, here. Here's the thing, with a population of just 600,000, it's the only city on the world's most populous continent (China) where gambling is actually legal. Actually, it's been a legitimate activity in Macau for about 150 years. Centuries older than Las Vegas— it hosted legal gambling long before Nevada was even a state! It was the late 19th century when the government introduced a licensing system for the fan-tan houses (Chinese gambling houses). In the past decade though, the city has majestically transformed itself from a colonial backwater with small-time gambling clubs, gangs and prostitution…. into the 'Las Vegas of the East.' The city now lays claim to 36 casinos -- and that's not the end of it. When restrictions on foreign operators were lifted in 2002, new casinos opened in droves as international firms joined the gold rush for success. Such rapid growth has of course attracted the industry's biggest players, including Las Vegas Sands and Wynn -- both listed in the Fortune 500 club. In fact, buoyed by big-spending mainland tourists, the world's largest gambling hub has just enjoyed its biggest and best ever year - propelling even more casino-owners up the rich lists. This pint-sized pokie heaven is now home to Asia's second-richest person Lui Che-Woo - owner of Macau's biggest casino, Galaxy. Even Australian tycoon, James Packer is being given a leg up the rich list, thanks to better than expected casino profits from his Macau investments. Steve Wynn, who opened the $1.2 billion Wynn Macau in 2006, once called Macau "the most exciting growth story of the decade." Just last week it was announced, MGM China has won approval to build a major new casino in Macau. With a budget of around $2.5 billion, the 17.8 acre site will include 1600 hotel rooms, 500 gaming tables and 2500 slot machines (or pokies as we say Down Under), impressive to say the least, especially considering the growing emergence of competition from virtual sites like OnlineCasinoAustralia.com.au online casinos today. Every month 2.5 million tourists flock to this glitzy playground to try their luck in a neon-lit shrine, that's become a testament to China's great passion for gambling. Just a stone's throw from the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong, the government is currently scrambling to build a bridge from Hong Kong to Macau that will cross some of the world's busiest shipping lanes. Currently it's 'boat only' across to the casino hub, with jam-packed ferries running back and forth around the clock (including all through the night if you lose on BlackJack and need a quick escape)! With Chinese New Year underway, it's the busiest travel time in the world and this new 'toast of the orient' has been inundated with a flood of cashed-up Chinese (around 2.7 million to be exact)! Inside these glittering casino walls, you'll see Baccarat on display in all its card-dealing glory. With little skill or strategy, interestingly it's the favored game of choice by Chinese punters over poker and blackjack…and brings in the lion's share of Macau's revenue. This old European card game based on chance, is played at lightening speed by those who don't come to Macau for fun, but to win....and win big! Don't expect the music to be pumping, or for that matter, fist pumps and loud cheers of victory; all you'll hear is the rustle of clothing, as tea is sipped and words spoken in hushed tones - perhaps the occasional thump on a table – subtle signs of fortunes made and lost. It's no secret, Chinese believe strongly in Feng Shui, Yin and Yang, ancient mythology and all things in between, and in gambling it's no different. Luck plays a big part with most believing 'winning' is more a result of fate than skill. Word is - punters have a way of peeling back the cards looking for clues as to what the cards might hold. If they think the number is an unwanted higher number, they will blow on the card to "blow the big numbers away." Each time, this method purposefully creases the cards, rendering the cards unusable for another round! High rollers in VIP rooms are known to bet up to 2-million Hong Kong dollars (US$257,000) on a single hand of baccarat. But while Macau's casinos are abuzz with the energy and abandon of the wildly wealthy, behind the permanently sparkling facades with decor dripping in gold and draped with diamond chandeliers, there are signs of something darker...an element of Russian Roulette. The city has attracted some of those unsavory elements, naturally associated with the industry, including 'money launderers' looking to evade limits on moving cash out of China. Beijing limits the amount of money Chinese can take out of the country to $50,000 per year. For those looking to skirt the rules, Macau provides an attractive alternative. By working with a junket operator -- which performs the basic functions of a tour company, bringing in high rolling punters to VIP rooms on extravagant package deals that see them loaded up with credit (based on the value of their property portfolios) - only to cash out their winnings in foreign currencies - the money can then be moved abroad and used to make purchases in Europe and the US. While most Junkets are law-abiding, some are reportedly linked to Triads (Chinese gangs of organized crime). As a result, this tiny tinseltown has seen several killings and kidnappings associated with debt collection, including one case a couple of years ago which saw two men stabbed to death in their hotel room. Dirty laundry aside, the city's unparalleled boom has also presented the peninsula with another problem - Macau is almost entirely dependent on gambling. At this moment in time, according to official statistics, gambling taxes form 70% of Macau's government income. It seems the government and mega moguls have taken note and are investing heavily in lavish resorts, high-end shopping malls and elaborate stage shows, as the region tries to reinvent itself and potentially replace high rollers with middle class families. Just as it once turned itself from a colonial backwater into a den of organised crime, now Macau needs to become the quintessential family tourist destination. Leading the transformation is the world-famous Venetian Macau. This impressive 40-story development houses the world's largest casino, standing at a whopping 51,000 square metres….and wait…there's more. It also includes a shopping mall to rival any retail nirvana, complete with its own Venetian-like Grand Canal winding through the centre, Gondola rides and serenading Gondoliers, not to mention, fake blue skies and a typically Venetian landscape. Venice is too far away for most Chinese holiday-makers, so it's a handy substitute. If they can't get to Venice, this will curb the appetite, for the moment at least. (OK, so I've been to Venice and as one of my all time favorites, this is definitely not Italy, but the scene is surprisingly more realistic than you might imagine….) Attached to the Casino and shopping mall is The Venetian hotel with its 3000 rooms, all of which are luxuriously spacious suites sporting lavish italian decor. Across the road stands one of the world's biggest hotels, the Sheraton, just shy of 4000 rooms! With seven restaurants to choose from, two fitness centres, a kids club, a spa and three outdoor swimming pools, it's vibrant, busy and innovative. Arriving here is a little like stepping into an island paradise (complete with a surprising performance by island dancers upon check in). Over the road, the mega-casino, City of Dreams has opened two regular shows: Taboo, a cabaret and the House of Dancing Water, an acrobatics spectacle that simply (without a word of a lie) is one of the best shows you'll possibly ever see. Featuring extraordinary acrobatics, deep dive stunts into Olympic-sized pools, flying motorbikes and more, it is breath-taking... mind blowing. Speaking of spectacles, this once sleepy fishing village has also made itself a name with several grand appearances in James Bond movies, including the latest, Skyfall and in the early seventies extravaganza, The man with the golden gun. Stepping away from the all the glitz and glamour though, there's another side to this City of Dreams, a more humble, unassuming side that boasts a unique fusion of the Mediterranean and the Oriental. Last year marked the 500th anniversary since the arrival of the first Portuguese mariners to Macau. Predating Hong Kong by almost 300 years, Macau was the first European enclave in Asia. In a sure sign this little piece of Europe in China stands strong today - you'll see all of the city street signs in Portuguese. As a result of its mixed heritage (and in complete contrast to the gaudiness of the gambling district) you'll see pretty pastel-colored neoclassical buildings that flank paved cobble-stoned piazzas; a warren of tiny alley ways with all the old world charm of a European city, infused with ancient Chinese temples and shrines; and food stalls wafting with the smell of Dim Sum and fish balls mixed in with the aroma of Portuguese spices and those famous custard tarts. It's possibly this distinct Macanese flavor that really showcases Macau's multicultural identity - a unique blend of Chinese, European and Southeast Asian tastes. They say Las Vegas is a monument to the American dream of endless possibility, Macau is without doubt a place where two worlds collide…both perhaps with endless possibilities. Here's hoping this cultural hybrid can remain unscathed on its pathway to reinvention. The stakes for its future are high and getting the balance right is surely the key to success for this little pocket where razzle dazzle meets old world charm. Viva Macau! **And there's more to Macau than meets the eye... check out how you can apply the game-play elements of Bingo to make the most of a Macau vacation here. Related articles High-stakes Macau leaves Vegas behind as casino revenue soars … [Read more...]
Inside a Chinese Kitchen: Dim Sum and then Some….
Back in the day, as a child growing up in the land of the long white cloud - New Zealand and later Australia - Thursday night was always takeaway night… and it was usually restricted to fish and chips (no complaints there) with a good dose of Wonder Woman spinning her magic on the tele. Even pizza was off the take-away menu back then….and Chinese food, well.... it was well and truly an unknown quantity. (Giving my age away really aren't I?) As time went on, the first of many Chinese restaurants began sprouting up across the western world in all their red and gold, chopstick wielding glory. If you had the luxury of dining out in one, it was considered a rather exotic experience. The epitome of kitschy 70/80's sophistication…these international establishments were true oriental gems. Their brightly lit facades with neon lights flashing names like Ming's Kitchen, Golden Dragon or Jade Palace cemented their cosmopolitan status - while inside, large, open plan restaurants heavily decorated with red and gold wallpaper, glitzy gold lion and dragon statues and chinese lanterns swinging with pride. Large round tables, were draped in the obligatory red or white table cloths, some with the 'Lazy Susan' turntables... and let's not forget those overcrowded fish tanks. These days, many Chinese restaurants really haven't changed all that much in appearance and feel. The names still ring true and the decor, well let's just say it's still got that 'Porpoise Spit' feel. (Muriel's Wedding fans will know what I'm talking about here - if not, just picture that slightly garish ambience that of course we all know and loved.) In Hong Kong, it's no secret that residents today like their Chinese local eatery to be bold and bright. The brighter the better. Fluorescent lighting if possible! These clientele are not here for a candle lit dinner for two, but a chatty, lively meal, where conversing with staff for much of the meal duration is seen as a sure sign of a good Chinese restaurant. (Mind you, I'm told in Mainland China, it's quite the opposite, with locals preferring private rooms to eat in (in the name of privacy and exclusivity)! Globally, while some of the traditional interior styles still reign supreme, thankfully the food is no longer limited to the tried and true Sweet & Sour Pork (often drenched in that bright pinky/orange sauce), the classic Honey Lemon Chicken and of course, the ubiquitous Fried Rice. Chinese cuisine outside of the East has come a long way. Yum Cha (which means "drinking tea") usually accompanied with a plethora of Dim Sum, is a popular weekend pastime for many an Aussie. Fried Dim Sim - a popular fusion of the East and West has resulted in the famous heavier, thicker version of the lightly steamed Chinese-style Dim Sum. It's probably fair to say, before I came to Hong Kong to live, I wasn't a huge fan of Chinese food….I didn't dislike it, but I was typically your standard 'fried rice and lemon chicken' ordering girl, who didn't have the die-hard dedication of someone who today, has been exposed to some of the tastiest 'chicken feet' in the land! (Just kidding… pork buns and turnip cake are much more my style.) Dim Sum literally means "Touch Your Heart" and three and a half years into my Asian experience, I reckon it's done just that! Served in small bamboo baskets with copious amounts of tea, according to Chinese custom these bite-sized dumplings are traditionally not supposed to be eaten at dinner time, but I say, give me Dim Sum all day, any day! The most popular kind in Hong Kong is 'Shao Mai' - steamed dumplings made of pork and shrimp, wrapped in a thin layer of wheat flour. During my most recent Dim Sum dining sensation, in the name of this post, I invited myself out the back for a peek into an authentic chinese kitchen. First things first, there's steam… not just a bit of smoke but a giant cloud of steam that catches in your throat, if you're clearly not used to it! What goes on in a Chinese kitchen is very much like watching a sacred ritual take place. Chinese kitchens are broken down into stations, based on the equipment they’re using - versus the western style kitchen stations which relate to the product they’re cooking. And at the heart of every Chinese culinary hotspot, the Wok! The distinctive bowl-shaped pan is used for everything from stir-frying to deep frying and making sauces. The only thing you don't use the wok for is to prepare rice. Trivial Fact: Historical influences have played a role in the style and shape of the wok; at various times throughout Chinese history, such as periods of famine, the ability to conserve food and eat well but cheaply was crucial. The shape of the wok ensures the cooking oil is distributed evenly, which means, essentially, less oil needs to be used. The food falls back into the pan and not over the edge during stir-frying, which is kind of handy! (Side Note: A little birdy tells me woks also catch fire very easily!) So, the Wok Station in a Chinese kitchen usually consists of four woks and if you're on wok number 1, my friend, you are officially the king pin! Then there's the BBQ station, Steamer station and Chopper station…….and never the twain shall meet. Repeat: If you're a chef cooking Peking Duck at the BBQ station, then you will never cross over and help out on, say the Steamer…. you will never go to the wok and fry up a few pieces of beef for a stir fry. No. Can. Do! Each station requires extremely different techniques and is considered to be a work of art, where cuisine is crafted with absolute precision. 'Chopping' can be such a delicate process with certain dishes requiring a two centimetre bean curd is sliced into 30 pieces! In very traditional style, food carving is also quite the art! Even Dim Sum is a competitive craft and can make or break the reputation of a restaurant in Hong Kong. If the Dim Sum is below expectations, visitor numbers will drop substantially. It's all about the texture -- the skin must be so thin, it's actually translucent and you can see the contents (which must be light and fresh) inside the dim sum. Chinese food must always be piping hot…and I mean so bloody hot, as a westerner you will surely burn your mouth on it. There are eight regional styles of chinese cooking from Huaiyang cuisine, which created the famous 'Salted Pork in Jelly' to the popular Sichuan cuisine which uses lots of hot pepper & chillies and is known for its seven tastes and eight flavours. “Seven tastes” refers to the seven basic flavors - sour, pungent, hot, sweet, bitter, aromatic, and salty. Tea Smoked Duck is a famous dish and Hot Pot is a signature of Sichuan Cuisine - where everybody chooses their own favorite ingredients to cook in the communal "hot-pot‟ and makes their own dipping sauce. Guandong/Cantonese cuisine favours Dim Sum and plenty of BBQ options including the whole roast suckling pig, while Shandong (eaten in the north) includes lots of braised dishes like abalone with shallots and garlic. All use very different ingredients and require quite different cooking skills. For more click on the different styles of cuisine across China click here. Chinese chefs are in overdrive across the country, with the most important and by far the biggest holiday of the year in full swing. Chinese New Year! Food is a central part of Chinese culture, uniting families, colleagues and friends, particularly in the Kong with most people living in relatively small apartments…meeting venues are invariably restaurants. And come Chinese New Year, it's all about the 'lucky' foods. For example, serving a whole chicken during Spring Festival symbolizes 'family togetherness,' noodles represent a long life (superstition says it's bad luck to cut them)! Both clams and Spring Rolls symbolize wealth; clams because of their resemblance to coins, and Spring Rolls because their shape is similar to gold bars. On the other hand, a food can have extra special significance during Chinese New Year because of the way the Chinese word for it sounds. The Cantonese word for lettuce sounds like 'rising fortune,' so it's common to serve a lettuce-wrap filled with other lucky food (it also explains why the dancing lions traditionally catch a lettuce in their mouths)! Tangerines and oranges are passed out freely during Chinese New Year and small orange trees guard every shop and home entry, because the words for tangerine and orange sound like 'luck and wealth.' Our fishy friends also play a large role in festive celebrations. The word for fish, "Yu" sounds like the words both for 'wish and abundance.' As a result, on New Year's Eve it is customary to serve a whole fish at the end of the evening meal. For extra luck, the fish is served whole, with head and tail attached, for a good beginning and ending for the coming year. To find out more about the timeless traditions and folklore attached to the Lunar New Year - check out my post here. "In With the Old, Out with the New." So from me to you….as the Year of the Snake draws to a close and the Year of the Horse gallops into fruition…. symbolising the year of energy, flamboyance and fun-loving frivolities, there's no better time to eat, drink and be merry! Kung Hei Fat Choi. PS. Don't forget the sweet stuff! According to legend, sugary snacks sweeten up prospects for the coming year….what's on the menu? Nian Gao (rice pudding), Jau Goks (crispy dumplings) candied fruits and seeds. … [Read more...]
Typhoon Utor turns Hong Kong into a Ghost Town
I woke up this morning in a city at a complete standstill. Hong Kong - the normally heaving metropolis from dusk till dawn -- a ghost town. From the forty something floor, the tops of trees swaying below me were the only signs of movement - a dark sky and patchy rain, reminders a super-typhoon with winds gusting up to 140km an hour was skirting Hong Kong. There was not a soul to be seen (apart from security guards at the front gate wearing crash helmets). In a city that never sleeps, Hong Kong was in a temporary coma. At 1:40am, with Typhoon Utor 300km off the coast, the Hong Kong Observatory hoisted Storm Signal 8 - the second highest signal - forcing the government to open 17 temporary storm shelters…and locals to batten down the hatches. … [Read more...]
One Night in Manila: Asia’s Forgotten City…..
When you're born in the land of the Long White Cloud - the place dubbed ‘middle-earth’ - and then raised in that other place they call 'The Land Down Under' -- getting to another country usually involves (at the very least) a good few hours up in the air. Let's face it, flying within Australia can take up to five hours and involve jet lag! So, the idea that I can be in a completely different country, new culture, new language (heck even new chopstick etiquette) within a couple of hours still manages to impress me! Suffice to say, during my time here in Asia's World City, I've managed quite a few short flights that have landed me, rather excitedly, in exotic, seemingly far-flung locations…all within the blink of an eye. With this in mind, I took my latest trip to the Philippines with a grain of salt. It’s just up the road - been there done that. That grain of salt was in fact so teensy; I didn't even check my e-ticket (properly). I'd been invited to host a corporate awards night as Master of Ceremonies (as I have done many times). But it seems the close proximity of this foreign land had me held hostage to a touch of complacency. Admittedly - I was a little sidetracked with family in town. As any expat will know, much-loved visitors on your turf means any semblance of normality is totally lost - you happily immerse yourself in the vortex of sightseeing, shopping and eating out. Every day is like a holiday in your own city (until reality bites). Click here to read more on EXPAT FOCUS … [Read more...]
Do all roads lead to China?
When you're living the 'enviable' expat life, it is for the most part, just that. But looming amongst the five star shindigs, endless shopping extravaganzas and cultural enlightenment is the little unavoidable fact: you never quite know when it's all going to end; when the phone's going to ring with the next 'tour of duty'. Last week, we got one of those calls… We'd been half-expecting it (if there is such a thing as half?) let's just say it wasn't a complete shock to the system. I didn't run around the house yelling "We've been punked!" but to be honest, my heart did a triple somersault with a twist and leapt right out of my chest. We've had many conversations about the next step. When we'll be ready, where we think we'd like to go, where we think we'll get to go. (For the record, the planets rarely align when it comes to the answers.) This wasn't a 'do or die' battle, we could say no and (hopefully) live to tell the tale, but when it's all said and done, we like to think of ourselves as brave soldiers always up for a new adventure. (I'm sure soldiers don't call their missions 'adventures') but you get the picture? "Bring. It. On!" we chanted with all the nervous enthusiasm we could possibly muster. Click here to continue over at Expat Focus>> to find out just how this proposed move to China's furnace went down! Let's just say, we learned a lot! … [Read more...]
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