When I told my local hairdresser in Xi’an I was off to Guilin for a few days, he got very excited and made me practice China's famous saying: Guilin is "Shan shui jia tian xia!” …until I had it right (as you do). (FYI - I’m starting to realise that Chinese people love their proverbs and there's a ‘saying’ for just about everything and anything.) In this case, ‘Shan shui jia tian xia’ means: Guilin’s ‘mountain and water scenery is the best under heaven’. That’s a pretty big call, right? ......Oh and there’s another one: “East or West: Guilin Scenery is Best!” Not wanting to be disappointed after all the 'hype,' I purposely didn’t look at any pictures of where we were going. (Unlike the hotelier who, I might add, scrutinises the website like a seagull scavenging for food, weeks out from the trip! ;-) ) Me? I like to be surprised. Plus, we had a few good friends who’d trodden the path before us and given us the lowdown. I knew we were in good hands. So, a two hour flight south from Xi’an to Guilin in China’s Guangxi Province and the adventure was on! Stepping outside from the airport, it immediately felt different, warmer for a start. Dare I say, there was almost a tropical feel in the air… (or maybe that was just wishful thinking on my frozen parts?) But there were palm trees, I swear! We were picked up by a recommended driver and had a two and a half hour journey up into the hills to a place called Ping’an Village….it’s the spot where the famous rice terraces reside in all their glistening glory. Despite the palm trees, once we hit the road, there was no mistaking we were still in China. The ramshackle streets, the ubiquitous beeping, the swarm of motorbikes and three wheeler Tuk Tuks snaking their way in and out of the traffic…all manner of goods being transported on the back, from people to packages, piled high! We saw a couple almost swallowed by a giant bouquet of balloons; live chickens in small baskets, perched on the back of bikes; there was even a lone cow standing on the back of a 3-wheeler! Gridlocked in the bumper to bumper, mid-morning Spring Festival traffic, we couldn’t miss the sound of a few overexcited kids yelling out “There’s a wai guo ren!” before erupting into fits of laughter. Yep. That’s us. The foreigners are coming! Once we got through the mayhem, it was a long and rather windy road up, up and up high into the hills. First stop - a gated entryway where we needed to hand over cold hard cash to the “officials” for entry into the village. Another 15 minute drive to the village itself or at least the bottom of the village and despite travelling up... we had definitely travelled back in time. Hello Ping'an! We thanked our driver and grabbed our bags from the boot, not before being swamped by lots of little old ladies in pink hats, gesturing madly at our belongings. Don’t be fooled by their small stature and number of years under their belts, these women are tough cookies and will carry your bags in large round baskets on their backs, all the way up steep, rickety walkways to your guest house. Our room for the night was first cab off the rank, just a 300 metre walk so we politely declined. The mere idea of making these women carry my luggage when I was perfectly capable seemed a little preposterous, but then again, this is how they make their living. And if you're really not up to the walk, or just want to take yourself back to China life of old, you can always sit yourself in one of these (for a small fee)! Ping’an Village is over 600 years old and has been harvesting rice for just as long. The village is made up mainly of the ethnic minority, the Zhuang people, but there are also the Yao people. The Yao women are easily identifiable because of their very long, long hair (which is wound around and around and bunched on top)! It’s believed they only cut their hair once during their lifetime. (Now that’s one way to save on hairdressing costs!) In recent years productivity in Ping'an has been slow and the rice is mainly harvested for the locals to consume and now the more than 60 guest houses that cater to the 2000 tourists a day. In 1949, Guilin was the first place in China to open up to tourists and this tiny but oh so charming village amongst the rice fields has been a hard treasure to keep hidden. For the last 12 years, intrigued tourists from around the world have been sneaking a look at this quaint, authentic Chinese town where life resembles that of a bygone era. Today the government even pays local farmers to flood their rice terraces, making for better quality pictures for tourists like us! Walking up to our guest house it’s clear though, tourism has cast her spell. There are now lots of little stalls selling all sorts of souvenir trinkets and locals are busy cooking up all sorts of traditional concoctions, including jars of extremely spicy looking chilli. The Zhuang ladies in their bright pink hats are squatting around a fire, cooking Tudou Hong zi (sweet potato) and their Chinese is peppered with a few English words like “hello” and "Come and look!" That aside, it really is another world…… Our guest house ‘Bai Ke’ is four floors on stilts….it’s endearingly rustic and authentically Chinese in style, with a sweeping view right across the mountains. We hear roosters screeching and I spy a lone woman toiling the rice fields. It feels like we are a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of manic China. We are made to feel incredibly welcome by the owner of the guest house from the minute we arrive until he drives us all the way to Guilin the next day. How's that for service! First things first though, it's time to explore. We get directions to walk (hike) up into the village and to the top of the mountain for the best views. Directions in the loosest sense of the word. We find ourselves in and out of backyards, along rickety stone pathways, up steep stairways and past random chickens, ladies cooking their bamboo rice and locals lunching in the sun. We pass by a grandma, baby on her back, hanging sheets in her yard. Everyone is friendly and it’s just a matter of heading up! After many pit stops and photographs, we make it to the top. (The Small Person is exceptionally stoic in the face of a promised ice-cream). We’re lucky, we’ve struck amazing weather and it’s nudging 25 degrees….in the middle of winter. I’m told if it’s a foggy day, the view can be disappointing, but today the view is breathtaking. At the top we’re clearly back on tourist soil and their are a million and one people wanting to take a photo with the small blondie. Luckily though, we spot a stall with ice creams and coke! We find a private spot in the grass but one of the 'Yao' ladies selling postcards and bracelets spies us and seeks us out. As much as I know we’re the 'wai guo ren' so there's a fair chance we are probably being ripped off, before I know it, I’ve purchased two bracelets, one each for Small Person and I! Back down the hill and that night our B & B serves us a delicious traditional village meal of sticky rice and chicken in bamboo. This is one of only two remaining places in China where they still use this kind of ancient cooking method. And of course we BYO our bottle of white for a modern day touch! The next day, country air in our lungs, refreshed and raring to go we hightail it back down to Guilin City for the night. First up, if you don’t need to go to Guilin or are short on time, I probably wouldn’t bother. As a city in China, sightseeing wise, apart from being surrounded by impressive karst mountains as you drive in, there’s not a whole lot going on. In this part of the world, it’s all about the surrounding areas. The next day we are lined up for a 3.5 hour, 83 km boat cruise up the Li River to Yangshuo. It’s been booked by a local friend so we have no idea what to expect. Picked up by a tour bus we find ourselves the only foreigners on board (which is really nothing new) and next minute we’re in a tight squeeze following one of those flags you see Chinese tourists huddled around, the world over! In true China style, it seems every cruise boat is scheduled to leave the dock at exactly the same time. You can imagine, this makes for a rather crammed and rushed entry on to the boats. Pushed, squeezed and shoved forward, we try to keep an eye on our flag bearing a Winnie the Pooh mascot, in the hope we make it on board the right boat. (Did I mention we forgot our luggage?….ah yes, such seasoned travellers, we got so excited getting on the tour bus we forgot we were actually going away for the night!) That said, the tour operator kindly arranged for another bus to pick up our luggage and get it to Yangshuo by the afternoon at no cost. A side to China where things like that are always infinitely easier, than being engulfed in red tape. On deck and every boat motors off up the river in unison…the chefs start cooking lunch on the back of the boats and we’re all seated at tables. It's no luxury cruise. It’s basic and there is one pretty dirty squat toilet for every female on board. The food is a very basic, Chinese buffet of rice and noodles and at feeding time, it's one in, all in. The view though is mighty impressive. They call it a 'jade ribbon winding among thousands of Karst Hills' and I can immediately see why it’s beckoned so many poets and artists over the years. Middle Earth springs to mind as we gaze at these hundreds of limestone peaks jutting sharply from flat ground in all manner of shapes and sizes. This is apparently the result of a perfect alchemy of geological conditions tens of thousands of years ago. About half way up we’re told the scene before us is that famous one on China’s 20 yuan note. Arriving in Yangshuo…this is a village that’s more than a village but not quite a city. It’s quaint and quirky and for Spring Festival it's draped in pretty red lanterns. Again, the minute you step off the boat, you’re flanked by a plethora of stalls selling everything known to mankind…. if you have kids you may want to put blinkers on them! Once you get through the merchandise hysteria, turn off the main path and you’ll be confronted with lots of cheap and cheerful bars and restaurants in an enchanting setting, complete with trickling river. On recommendation, we stayed at the eco-friendly Yangshuo Village Inn which was about six kilometres from the main drag near Moon Hill. Set in a tiny local neighbourhood, it was authentically Chinese and a world away from our five star bubble. I loved it the minute we stepped inside to a roaring fire and tiny cups of ginger tea. Owned by an American who has been in China for over 20 years, he has local villagers running the guesthouse and the service is impeccable. Upstairs the Italian rooftop restaurant serves genuine Italian food to die for. Not a noodle in sight. Our room is simple, cosy and comforting. We sit on our private balcony while fire crackers erupt across the laneway and the karst mountains rise up into the night sky. With just a day and a half in Yangshuo we decided to hire bikes (which are everywhere). Despite the seemingly towering karst mountains, it’s completely flat and super bike friendly. Let’s be clear though, until this point, I hadn’t been on a bike for 22 years, but who’s counting. We I wobbled off down the laneway and onto the main road. Yikes! Competing with large tour busses, cars, motorbikes and a host of wobbly bikers like us …we pedalled up to the Yulong river. Here you can jump on a bamboo raft and glide down the river, appreciating the vivid and beautiful landscape before you. If we thought the view coming up from Guilin was incredible, this is even better. We cycled along the river for about ten kilometres enjoying the serenity.... Along the way, we found Yangshuo Village Inn’s sister hotel set river side at this incredible spot. Lunch! By the time I was getting the hang of the whole two wheeler thing, it was time to start heading back, but not before an impulsive stop off at a little roadside cafe. We soon found out this was no ordinary cafe….while it looks pretty under a rooftop of passion fruit vines, there was a fair bit of rubbish on the tables and strewn across the floor and I'm not sure how game you would be to eat the food. Bottled beer though, that we could do! US$3 for two giant bottles of beer and a coke and we were set! All that pedalling is thirsty work! (Never mind that the table-top almost wobbled off.) I think my hairdresser might just be right, with his saying "Shan shui jia tian xia!” If you live in or are visiting the Middle Kingdom, this is definitely scenery that has to be seen! This is Guilin. This is China. Tips for Your Trip (*I am not being paid to endorse any of the following, these are just my personal recommendations.) Car from Guilin Airport to Ping’an Village (around 250rmb). You can also catch a bus! Gate into Ping’an Village - 100rmb each, kids under 1.2 metres free. Bai Ke Hotel, Ping’an River Cruise from Guilin to Yangshuo - 550 rmb - kids under 1.2 metres free, Kids under 1.5 metres half price. (Note: There are different prices at different travel agents so it pays to negotiate.) Yangshuo Village Inn Yangzhou Mountain Retreat (Sister hotel on the river.) … [Read more...]
20 Top Tips for Booking a Hotel! (From the hotelier’s wife…)
As the hotelier's wife, I’m privy to a few inside whispers…and you’ll be pleased to know, over the years, I’ve been secretly stashing them in the vault, otherwise known as my 'hotel file.’ (Shhh…don't tell the hotelier.) As an expat for almost five years, we've been ultra privileged to travel around Asia and beyond a significant number of times, as a single couple - but mostly with the 'Small Person.’ From city to the beach stays, I've collected a few worthy pieces of info along the way. And the small but handy fact, that we now live in a hotel has also served me well on the advice front. With that in mind, I thought it was high time I shared my two cents worth, (for what it's worth)! A few sneaky tips to think about next time you're planning your holiday and want to book a hotel. #1 GET LUCKY IN THE LOW SEASON When you book your holiday, if it's possible (and I know, often it's not with school holidays, work etc) DO pick the low season - even holidaying just before or just after a major holiday will get you a better deal and a higher possibility of a room upgrade. #2 THE HOTEL WEBSITE IS YOUR BEST BET With the big chain hotels, in theory you shouldn't be able to find a cheaper rate on a third-party website; most big players have 'best rate guarantee' where they guarantee the lowest rate through their own channels. Booking with a third party can mean you're provided with a less impressive room and receive less recognition as a guest. Tip: It pays to challenge the rate you see on the website. #3 PRE-PAY FOR LESS If you pre-pay your booking in advance, you should generally get a better room rate…anything between ten and 50 per cent cheaper than the going rate is possible. Ask if they have a pre-paid rate or check the website. #4 INVESTIGATE YOUR DESTINATION When booking a hotel, be sure to check off the dates you're going with the local calendar. For example, religious holidays could mean everything's closed down for the day/week; public holidays (especially in China) might mean your hotel is inundated with a plethora of frenzied guests. Check the weather and try to avoid typhoon season or the wet season. Note: Typhoon season doesn't have to mean bad weather and can mean lower rates. Check whether you need a visa for your port of call as well, as often these can take time to process. #5 RESEARCH REAPS REWARDS If you haven't heard about your hotel of choice through word of mouth, it pays to research your preferred destination on line with reputable travel sites like Trip Advisor or Ctrip. Get the lowdown warts and all. See what other travellers think. #6 FRIENDLY FLIGHTS Before you fall in love with a holiday destination and start dreaming of long walks on the pristine beach, check flights including any connecting flights to make sure it's doable and won't cost the earth. Sometimes the hotel's dirt cheap but just getting there costs a small fortune. If you're only going for a few days, budget flights can be at more unsociable hours, making it a marathon effort to get there. Is it worth it for just a few days? #7 RESORT VERSUS CITY Be clear in your mind about what you need. If you have kids, resorts are more inclined to have a 'Kid's Club'…..less so an 'Executive Club.' Look for brands that have kid's programs and remember not all will have a baby sitting agency. A lot of hotels have a policy where they can't recommend baby sitters for fear of liability. Be aware if you do choose a resort holiday…it may well be a beautiful resort in the middle of nowhere, but this will also mean your dining options are limited. The hotel knows this all too well and the cost is likely to reflect this. #8 EXCHANGE RATE EXPECTATIONS It pays to check the exchange rate before you travel so you know whether eating out and activities are going to be more expensive than you expected. #9 A HEALTHY START AT A HEALTHY RATE Ordering breakfast daily in advance, so it's included in your room rate, will be more cost effective than paying at the restaurant door or at check in. If you haven't, on your check in, it's well worth asking if there's a special rate given if you sign up for daily breakfast then and there. #10 EXECUTIVE CLUB ENTRY If you plan on spending quite a bit of time in the hotel, eating breakfast and indulging in a few evening beverages, paying the extra to be part of the Executive Club is worth it. It includes free breakfast and a drink or two plus snacks in the evening. Note: Many hotels don't allow children in their executive clubs. #11 FAMILY FACTS Bigger families often need interconnecting rooms and a lot of hotels simply don’t have the right configuration for an average family. If you book a 'Twin Room' the 'single' beds in ‘higher level’, newer hotels are bigger than average and usually fit two of you. Note: Sometimes it's cheaper to purchase a suite rather than two interconnecting rooms. #12 ROLL-AWAY BEDS AREN'T FREE If you have kids, it pays to ask whether the room has a sofa bed. You will more often than not be charged for an extra roll-away bed - which is surprisingly not always cheap. Alternatively, check if the room has enough space for a blow up bed…otherwise if there's a king sized bed, perhaps there's no need for that extra sleeping space. Some hotels (if they know you have additional people in the room) will try to charge for extra linen. #13 NEW BABY IN TOW Often you're better paying that bit extra for a higher standard hotel. They will have baby bottle sterilisers, cots, high chairs, and can bring microwave ovens to the room for heating food. #14 A BALCONY WITH BENEFITS If you have children, it's often good to have a balcony…even a little one. At least you've got somewhere to go when you've put the kids to bed instead of sitting in the dark, barely breathing in case junior wakes up! If you've got a little one, still sleeping in a cot you can always wheel them into the walk-in-wardrobe until you go to sleep so it's quieter for them and you can at least watch TV. (Naturally I'm not condoning locking them in for the night!) #15 SWIMMING CHECK In Asia, in particular, a lot of swimming pools are indoors, so if you plan on a relaxing holiday in the sun….check first. If you're in a resort make sure the hotel has free towels and kid's toys. #16 MINI BAR MISHAPS Watch out! A lot of mini bars in big hotels these days are automated. This means if you remove anything from it - you will be automatically charged. Checking out the local brew could prove to be a costly exercise. If it's not automated, why not stock the bar with your own beverages. Stop off in duty free and grab a couple of your favourite bottles. A lot of country's high import taxes mean alcohol can be notoriously expensive in a hotel. #17 WATER WOES Just because a hotel has a 5-Star rating doesn't mean their water is 5-star quality. Hygiene standards differ greatly depending on the country you're in and some sewerage systems are more antiquated than others making the water unsafe to drink or even brush your teeth. Do your research. #18 COMPLIMENTARY STUFF At most big brand hotels, kids between three and 12 years old eat for free at the hotel buffet restaurant. Most big hotels have complimentary bottles of water, but be careful - there is often a mix of complimentary and charged mineral water in the room. The charged for bottles usually have a tag displaying the charge. (You didn't hear this from me, but if you hide the water bottles, you'll get more delivered.) ;) Many hotels will have a free shuttle bus to take you to and from town or into the hub of your surroundings. #19 INTERNET Make sure you know in advance whether the internet is free or not. Many luxury hotels still charge and this can sting you financially if you're unaware. Some of the big players include free wifi if you book through their own website #20 LOYALTY COUNTS It's well worth signing up to the hotel's loyalty program, if they have one. Why? Lots of perks including the chance to get a better room, a discount off your food and beverage, potentially free internet and less chance of getting moved if the hotel overbooks! Happy Holidays from Mint Mocha Musings: The Hotelier's Wife, An Expat Affair in Asia Psssst.... If you think someone else might benefit, please share it. That would mean a lot to me! ;) … [Read more...]
Grab Your Hong Bao! You’re Invited to a Wedding in China!
The fact that I’d never met the bride or groom, apparently posed no issue for all those involved in the wedding extravaganza! So the teeny matter, that I failed to register it was actually the Groom saying ‘Nihao’ to me at the entrance to the wedding reception and the small fact I retaliated with a cheery “Hello, how are you today?” hopefully went under the radar!! (Too late to say congratulations now!) Surprisingly (or not) during my rather short stint in China thus far, I’ve somehow managed to find myself witnessing quite a few romantic nuptials! You may recall we inadvertently found ourselves smack bang in the middle of a wedding ceremony, in our first week in Xi’an? If you want to relive the hilarity of being a wedding crasher, click here. So, there’s usually not much notice given for a wedding in China, with invitations delivered just a few weeks, sometimes just days before the big event! With a couple of weeks notice for this week-day wedding, we were able to mark it in the calendar; somehow though, I missed the memo explaining that when you arrive at a wedding here in China, the first thing you do is give your gift (a small red envelope filled with crisp new notes - ideally to the tune of an auspicious number - nothing with four in it ok!) to the panel of people out the front. Ahhh so that’s why James is ignoring the bride and groom who are waiting for us -- watching as the money is earnestly counted out -- in front of us! (Awkward wait while I try to erase thoughts racing through my head about whether we’ve given enough money and in the right denominations)! It’s about now I realise the random guy that said “hi” is now standing next to the bride (you can’t miss her, she’s the one wearing the white bridal gown)! To be fair, she was actually yelling at her new husband, so I missed the ‘just married’ cues…(Hopefully it wasn’t, “is that all these loser foreigners are giving us!! I thought you said he was the big boss!!”) I attempt to feign a few, by now, feeble congratulations and use small person as a decoy with a “Wow! look at this beautiful bride,” while the hotelier appears to be writing an essay in the wedding book! (Anytime!!) We are then ushered (rushed) into the lavish reception area, which is typically oozing glamour - from the designer runway lined with candelabras to the elaborate backdrops; Cameras on giant booms swing by us (narrowly missing the hotelier’s head I might add)! As flash as the room looks, many of the guests though, look like they may have just got off the couch at home.. some are wearing tracksuits, many are in jeans….most are in casual clothes. Apparently this is perfectly normal for a Chinese wedding. After all it’s just a quick lunch really, a couple of hours at best, that usually starts around noon. (Despite now knowing about this dress code, I just can’t for the life of me, bring myself to attend a wedding in jeans, not yet anyway.) The ubiquitous bottle of Baijiu is placed on the table in it's box, she’s flanked by big bottles of Coca Cola and Sprite. We are served tea and then it’s supposedly on to the hard stuff….(Now’s a good time to mention there are also plates of loose free-flow cigarettes at a special table just outside the ballroom, should you wish to inhale). Families of the bride occupy two large tables at the front and their tables are often draped in red table cloths to signify their VIP status. As soon as we are all seated….the groom gives a quick speech….(of which I have no idea what is being said, given it’s obviously all in Chinese…but I get the gist…and try to nod in appropriate places). Pictures from the happy couple’s photo shoot flash up on big projector screens. Here in China, the wedding shoot is done weeks if not months before the big day. Couples will often go to another city or country to have these photos taken in several different outfits in many different, rather exotic locations. Not surprising given ten million couples tie the knot every single year in China, the photogpraphy game is big business! Whilst the ultimate goal of living ‘happily ever after’ is largely the same, the bride looks stunning in white and there’s a big celebration; the traditions and rituals that go with saying 'I do' are a little different. Until a couple of generations ago, most marriages in China were arranged. Yep, that means your parents generally chose your life partner and whether you thought he or she was cute, funny, smart, romantic or simply a whizz in the kitchen, really played no part in it. In fact, I’m told in many rural parts of China, they still have arranged marriages and there are still regular weekend “marriage markets” in places like Shanghai where parents go armed with a list of their child’s vital statistics on display, eager to find them a love match! (I’m pretty sure the child in question has no clue his or her assets are being advertised to the nation.) Sadly, there still seems to be a stigma tied to women today in China who aren’t married by the age of around 27! They call them “Sheng Nu” or “Leftover Women!” Say what?! (This explains why my local hairdresser and his team nearly had a pink fit when I announced I’d married on the ‘other’ side of 35! Looking me up and down, they eye-balled me suspiciously, like I may be hiding some sort of third arm or leg!) While in the Western world we can date without it necessarily leading to marriage, for Chinese, once dating became more acceptable (and dating shows took over television land)….it’s wasn’t a case of shopping around, trying on a few for size…..forget playing the field. For most, dating is serious business!… You date with the intention to marry! And once you’ve made it clear you’re boyfriend and girlfriend, it’s crucial that both parents wholeheartedly agree with your liaison. In China, a marriage is about two families joining together, more so than just two individuals. Especially, as the children are largely responsible for looking after their parents in their old age. This is taken extremely seriously and is prioritised above most other things in life. Grandparents are also often responsible for bringing up the couple's children. So it seems, once the union is agreed to by both families, the real fun begins! I’m told the traditions differ a little between North and South China, but in the North, the husband’s family will cement the unification with a gift of around RMB100-thousand (US$16,000) to the bride’s family, along with jewellery and other auspicious gifts. Not so long ago, the bride would go to live with the husband’s family. Today, they generally reside together in their own home. Oh and while you don’t see many Chinese women wearing diamond rings, I'm assured they do have them, most are just kept safely at home! Together the families will consult a fortune teller to ensure the pairing is suitable and once they have the green light, the two families meet to find a ‘favourable’ date that will ensure a long, healthy and happy union. Often the Chinese Almanac (calendar) is consulted which lists all of the most prosperous days. Once the date has been set, there is no turning back. Come the morning of the official event, there are lot of Chinese traditions going on at home — which I’m told even involves the bride hiding her shoes for the groom to find… (heaven help him if he can’t)!! Shoes found and it's time to party! The legalities are all done at the offices of the Civil Affairs Bureau, sometimes a week or more before the celebrations, so you won’t see an exchanging of vows at the celebrations. Once the groom has given his speech, you’ll usually see dad on the catwalk, daughter on arm, presenting her to her new husband. There is a lot of emotional chatter, the husband goes down on one knee and plenty of hugging. Usually the bride is in tears. (Hopefully tears of pure joy)! The couple then walk down the catwalk with the bridal party, (who can be known to bust a few dance moves). The bride and groom say a few romantic words to each other and in this case, the bouquet was thrown -- but only to the girls in the bridal party. Tip for all those single girls: time to work on getting a gig in the bridal party. There's no Best Man embarrassing the groom, this is strictly above board! This is where the hotelier comes in. Just between you and me, I’m pretty sure we are not invited to the wedding for sentimental reasons. Mostly, the happy couple want the boss (the white boss, no less) to stand up and say a few words, in English. Never mind, that the majority of the wedding won’t understand, it’s all about the ‘value’ this strangely brings to the affair in question! Here’s a little snippet of how this goes down. Lucky for the hotelier (or not) there is a translator on hand. Once the formalities are done with, it’s time to tuck into the feast before us which involves about six courses, at least!! (Pig’s elbow being one of them at this week’s event, which I might add was pretty tasty!). While we’re feeding our faces, the bride has a quick change (often into her ‘Qipao’ - traditional Chinese dress) or something else glamorous, usually in red - symbolising luck and wealth. Together the couple must roam from table to table, toasting everyone in the room (often with shot glasses of Baijiu)! Mid mouthful of noodles or not, it’s imperative everyone gets to their feet when the couple arrives at your table. Meantime, a few guests have spied the small person and come over with red envelopes for her! (Who’s wedding is this?) Apparently giving children Hongbao or lucky money is supposed to bring joy and good luck for the twosome. The bride and groom don’t actually seem to sit down…once the toasting has been done, it’s almost time to call it a day!….They wait outside for the guests, who then pose with them for photos and congratulate them in person. And....that's a wrap! Typically, the newly weds will go on to have some sort of small gathering with friends. Meantime, we smile, slip out the side door and head for a much needed coffee! And that is how you say 'I do' in China. #Disclaimer: You may have had different experiences with Chinese weddings, this is just my observation of weddings in Xi'an. … [Read more...]
Asia Versus Europe: Let’s Play Spot the Difference!
Given it was my first time out of Asia in seven months and for the hotelier, two years (Yes! two god dam years!), it was always going to be an amusing amazing experience on all fronts! Heck, just crossing the road was going to be fraught with a little bit of excitement! And it was! "What? Errr you sure it's safe to cross on the little green man?" Apparently, yes! Yippee! Our summer destination was France! Yes, sounds quite indulgent/romantic/exotic, I know. If it makes you feel better, it was a family gathering in the north of France with a house load of kids, so you can erase any picture of us racing through fields of sunflowers in a convertible in the south of France whilst quaffing wine from the myriad of vineyards enveloping us…like so: It wasn't too shabby though. We had fields of lush wheat….stretched out in front of us like a beautiful cashmere blanket, stunning sunsets, great company (even the kids) and French food! Hello pain au chocolate, brie cheese, baguettes and French wine! Oui! Oui! And then we had Paris.....the Arc de Triomphe (circled by the Tour de France no less), the Eiffel Tower and Moulin Rouge. Ok…so it was a pretty glam holiday for us current China-dwellers. Given the circumstances, off the bat, it was obviously going to be hard not to compare. Talking countries not kids (of course)!! (Well yes, when it comes to kids given mine screeched sporadically, waking the entire homestead every night, I'd rather not go there!) But China - France? Asia versus Europe! Where to even begin! Some might say don't even bother, but for the fun of it, let's compare notes. Of course landing in France, it's hard not to notice the traffic. Mostly, for its insignificance, if anything. Instead of a game of 'eye spy' on the journey from Paris to Normandy to keep the small person amused, it was more fun to play 'Spot the Difference.' The roads were ever so orderly and everyone appeared to be managing (mostly) to stick to their own lanes…..ok so those hairy driver's zipping around the Arc de Triomphe in the middle of Paris could've probably resembled a scene straight out of downtown Xi'an, but for the most part, drivers in France were, shall we say, 'refined.' (Just don't mention the British/Aussie tourists doing circles with a dodgy sat-nav.) Mind you, as refined as they were, we did find ourselves on more than one occasion held up for more than a few minutes by road blockages in the countryside, courtesy of protests! One such protest came in the shape of traffic being ground to a halt for at least an hour....at the end of the road block, about 20 huge rigs stationed strategically across roadways, a few measly banners stating their cause and a bunch of seemingly oblivious blokes drinking beer on the roundabout! Just one police car insight. Apparently this is not unusual in France? Beeping was down to a (pleasantly) dull roar…. incredibly soothing to my now pulverized ears…the peaceful buzz of cars cruising the streets in relatively smooth fashion, a sweet symphony. Oddly, it made me a little on the nervous side though. Maybe I'm getting used to weaving through the cars in a laissez faire fashion! Speaking of stopping, um, since when did fuel stops get so fancy? Major hubs for serious coffee-refuelling at your disposal! Ok - so clearly by the very title of this blog, you'll gather I'm no coffee connoisseur, so I admit I was quite taken with the machines dispensing Kit Kat flavoured coffees. Anyone? I also came to the careful conclusion (whilst stuffing my face) in Europe just how much I miss 'normal' food. At least what I consider to be normal, anyway - as a good old Aussie bbq-loving, fish 'n' chip chewing, cheese-hoovering, seafood slurping, chocoholic. Don't get me wrong, I don't mind Chinese food, in fact give me a good plate of Dim Sum day or night but when you don't grow up with it, it's quite hard to make pig's lung and chicken feet your daily staple. No disrespect… Actually, on the food note, can I just say I was impressed with the 'service' in Paris…. people often comment that the French are notorious for being a little on the arrogant side, but for us, the fact they even spoke to us was rather refreshing. In a lot of European countries, being a waiter is a profession. I love that the middle-aged men who've obviously been on the gig for years take such pride in their service…it's almost an art, yes even in the most casual of cafes…..And language is no barrier! Mind you, I've just had a thought about the young girl who served us on one occasion in a Paris cafe and had no qualms about walking out mid service to have a smoke break at the front door. Let's call that a generation gap, shall we? The architecture is obviously different at first glance, and second.….in the country it's all cobblestones, castles and corn fields and in Paris, well what's not to love about all those dainty iron clad railings decorating the window sills …brightly colored flowers flowing freely, stunning gold statues, the magnificent Sacre-Coeur and of course the always awe-inspiring Eiffel Tower. Um did somebody say Pagoda? Incidentally, today I found myself taking a few pics of the rather impressive statues in my backyard…not quite The Colonne de Juillet but pretty slick nonetheless! Admittedly, there is also quite a lot of European influence throughout Asia. From Shanghai to Macau, even just up the road here in Xi'an, a little bit of European charm is visible. Let's talk about the language… French…. "Ooh La La!" I haven't spoken it since high school but let me reiterate, compared with 'trying to' speak Chinese, it is a dream!! Yes! I probably needed to know more than 'bonjour' and 'merci beaucoup,' but the freedom one feels when you don't have to 'sing' a language in four different pitches was highly liberating. And, signs, glorious signs that were decidedly decipherable proudly displayed before me! Put it this way, if I was in a taxi or stranded somewhere in the middle of the city, my body wouldn't kick into 'fight or flight' mode. (Any expat in Xi'an will tell you the thought of their phone battery dying whilst 'out' is their worst nightmare!) Let me just say this foreign country felt so much less foreign. In fact, when we first arrived in northern France, we almost forgot we were in a foreign country, much of it felt very English…which of course it's not really. But that's when it hits you, how different Asia really is to the West…. Without putting you off your dinner, I've got to say I reveled in the level of hygiene. Now that just sounds plain weird doesn't it! But not having to remember to use hand sanitiser Every. Single. Time we ate or Every. Single. Time we'd been out of the hotel was oh so lovely. I even (heaven forbid) laid eyes on a squat toilet, that looked relatively inviting, well as much as any toilet can. I will spare you the details, but if you've been to China you'll know what I mean. Multiculturalism….the diversity was powerful and mesmerizing to watch. Everywhere, a myriad of nationalities…all blending into the vibrant Parisian scene - vividly different skin types, hair colors and dress codes on display. Sure, in China there are other cultures in the mix, but it's mostly us few western expats meandering on the sidelines. Last but not least I can't go past that superb blue, ever so high, sky and those delicate fluffy white 'marshmallow' clouds. A rare scene in Xi'an, even on a sunny day. Fresh air! And inhale! Ahh the Eiffel Tower and all its glory…a spot for excited tourists from all over the globe to congregate and admire… and there was no mistaking the Chinese tourist. The lady decked out from head to toe in Louis Vuitton teetering on her heels waiting for her little girl to emerge from the bushes, right next to the Eiffel Tower… Ahem! And at the airport check in, ma and pa sitting on their portable seats plucked from their backpacks, while they waited for their son to deliver their passports. Not actually a bad idea, really, given the chaotic, disorganized Charles de Gaulle Airport we were unexpectedly confronted with at ten o'clock at night. There's a lot to be said for the efficiency of Asian airports! After lining up with the masses for what seemed like an eternity (two hours to be precise), we were greeted warmly with the words, 'over-sold,' 'over-booked' and 'bumped off!' Ok, so we weren't quite bumped off...but with a 12 hour long haul flight back to China in front of us it was a little mortifying to hear they had booked all three of us in separate seats. Yep, my four year old was seated on her own. Now, not that I'm saying I wouldn't love a long flight seated On. My. Own. Hell yes - movies, wine, uninterrupted sleep….but let's be real, a 4 year old can't sit on her own for 12 hours. Can she?! Apparently sitting you 'randomly' apart from each other or worse being told you're out, when you check in, is what happens…not bad if you're single and can handle an extension of your holiday with a night in a chic French hotel. Of course in all my single travels it's never happened to me. How about you? Airlines regularly overbook the number of passengers flying for the number of seats to park their behind on, because they can almost always guarantee there will be "no shows" and a lot of them. They do the same in hotels too. (Shhhh) Yep, they do the maths and then bump the ones they think they can get away with…. if you're a platinum member, a regular customer, with a family, or have booked through the hotel itself, you've got more chance of staying put (just quietly). The fact we were on a connecting flight was in our favour but the staff at check in (as helpful as they were) couldn't fix it until we got to the gate to board. So boarding pass in hand, we hightailed it, all the while I was frantically preparing my self righteous speech about how we couldn't possibly fly in such circumstances or how perhaps they might need to upgrade us to first class (surely there would be spare beds seats up the pointy end?!); or how I was quite happy for the flight attendants to have Small Person overnight if they didn't mind her being spread across their laps rolling fitfully backwards and forwards in her sleep for the entire journey! Turns out, my panic was overrated…. an incredibly calm man at check in efficiently changed our seats without so much as a "Madam, I'm sorry to say but…." and on board we went….smooth sailing. The in-flight food more than made up for it….yep, I'll admit it out loud, I am pretty tired of the oil soaked noodles and dodgy bits of chicken floating in dried up rice on most Asian flights I get. Air France your Brie cheese had me at hello. That said, coming back to 'my reality' in Xi'an, I'm instantly reminded of the intriguing and vibrantly-coloured patchwork quilt of commotion, on my doorstep! Yes, whilst, many days it has me in a state of eye rolling disbelief, it really is quite a captivating, intriguing and comical amusing place. The streets are never uniform, the people never orderly, the country is awash with uniqueness on every level and that… is NEVER dull. To borrow a quote from Forrest Gump, China's "like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get!" Chicken's feet and all! For now, this is China. … [Read more...]
Behind the Curtains on China’s 5-Star Stage: Hotel Confessions
Five months living in the hotel and I finally got a backstage pass! (Just who do you have to um..know 'round here to get a behind the scenes tour!?) ;) I'm not sure what I expected, but the sheer size and complexity of the hotel's underbelly simply blew me away. I guess if you're not in the industry, you expect 'back of house' to be a fairly compact entity; perhaps a canteen, a few offices, and a kitchen or two. I mean, front of house in most 5-star establishments is huge, so just how much more can there be, right? But let's not forget this is a 400-plus room hotel with three restaurants and hundreds of staff - in Mainland China no less, where space is abundant! So, with my small person in tow, it was a little like stepping through the magic door in The Lion the Witch & the Wardrobe. Not unlike Narnia, right now - it feels like the winter in Xi'an is seemingly endless! As you expect in 5-star digs, the hotel 'stage' is brightly lit with staff buzzing around 24/7. Concierge staff are smiling and gushing at every corner; lobby bars are serving up colorful cocktails and fine dining restaurants are wafting with delicious-smelling cuisine. Mean time, ballrooms brim with glittering events and hotel rooms are decked out with fluffy white robes and plush towels; not to mention your king sized bed adorned with crisp white sheets. But behind the curtains of the stellar 5-star performance, what's really going on? Venturing out of the spotlight and into the abyss, we (much to my surprise) found a rabbit warren of corridors. The scenery is very bare bones, but don't be fooled - behind closed doors we found bustling hives of activity. A small village at play. Despite the Chinese New Year 'skeleton' staff list, we were met with "Xin Nian Kuai Le's" at every turn….quite lucky the hotelier had a few remaining Hong Bao (not sure what that is - click here for the lowdown) stashed in his pockets for this emergency journey, because in this intricate maze it clearly wasn't going to be a quick prop change. My first surprise, dark rooms filled with metal framed bunks cushioning sleeping workers - on split shifts. ‘Shushing’ a boisterous Ava, we scurried past - but apparently they're used to corridors heaving with bodies while they catch a few zzz’s. For many staff in China, hours are long and a kip between shifts is not out of the question. Further down in the wings we spotted separate kitchens for literally every type of food preparation you can imagine. Yes! A budding chef's paradise, you will probably salivate at the idea of a room just for chopping veges! A sushi making kitchen, pastry kitchen, bread making kitchen, butcher, fish prep room etc etc…..the list goes on! (My small person echoing complete surprise at the bread in its doughy form. 'It's white!' she pipes up! Obviously mummy doesn't make her own bread!) Up another alleyway…and the scene is set for dozens of workers washing, folding and ironing everything from towels and sheets to clothes and well, hopefully not my underwear at this very moment in time! (Shudders.) A laundry the size of a small apartment lay before us with enough starch to stiffen a Xianease noodle - the staff probably thought we were mad, oohing and ahhing over giant clothes dryers and sheet straighteners but it was spectacle worthy of applause indeed. Along the hall and a dry cleaning-style shopfront is overflowing with fresh costumes uniforms in every size and shape (shoes too) where staff check in to collect their week's supply. Relaxation rooms (Green Room?), a florist (yes, how else do you think those daily decorations adorn the lobbies of fancy hotels - a set in need of constant revamping), a staff canteen serving 2000 meals a day…and of course a bevy of offices with busy workers. Tightly shut doors opened on to massive plant rooms with boilers for keeping the water hot, electricity flowing (usually), aircon in action and well basically the 5-star show up and running. (We all know what happens when they stop! If you don’t, er, perhaps read this!) We stopped off to say hello to the ladies in ‘service express’ who take all incoming calls to the hotel…. Their English is considered pretty good, but if we're ordering dinner by phone we usually muddle our way through with their English and my woeful Chinese, in the end hopefully achieving some sort of edible room service delivered. Today they spy Ava and I and immediately start giggling and using the words "salmon" and "broccoli!" Yep! We westerners are a pretty predictable lot! All we eat is broccoli and Sal-mon! (Kind of.) With 300 security cameras installed in the hotel (don't worry, there are none in the rooms, or so I'm told!!) there's even a security room with an entire wall of monitors - enough to rival a TV station, so I believe! And as a city with a serious bike culture, there's also an impressive parking bay for these two-wheeler modes of transport. Nearby to the hotel there are also dormitories for around 100 staff who live more than two hours away. They are basic but a much sought-after alternative to taking a mammoth journey to and from work each day in manic traffic. Staff also get to eat three hot meals a day and shower - a common scenario in Xi'an workplaces. So, backstage, in this giant village, it's definitely a no-frills affair; but here in Xi'an where daily life is relatively simple and for the majority of Xianease, luxuries few and far between, it's no doubt more appealing to hang in Narnia where the never-ending winter is warmed up with proper heating. Just as a hotel can be a refuge for its guests, it's also a home away from home for the staff in a place where outstanding performances are a prerequisite for 5-star presentation. There's no doubt, through the revolving door, there's a pretty well-oiled machine that (for the most part) keeps the wheels on the 5-star wagon rolling! The show must go on! Psst, as for what goes on front of house, behind closed doors.....you might like this post I wrote. Fool's Paradise. Some guests are in a league of their own! … [Read more...]