Hello my friends! Break out the champers, because CHINA BLONDE - the memoir is here!!! If you've been following Mint Mocha Musings for awhile now, like I know so many of you loyally have since 2012 (yes it's been that long), you've probably heard me talking about writing a book.... a lot. And, you've probably wondered if I was making it up -- I don't blame you, it's taken that bloody long! But let me tell you, there is nothing remotely quick about writing a book. I've always wanted to write a book, don't all journos think they've got a book in them? Ha! Probably. But, in all reality, I had no idea what my first book would be about....that is until I got to China. Then it all became 'oh so clear'. Xi'an - this fascinating second-tier city of nine million people, the first ancient capital of China. A city bearing thousands of years of history. Fascinating... until I had to live there. You may remember, culture shock hit me head on like a lightening bolt. Waking up that very first morning, daring to peek outside the hotel window, I felt like I couldn't breathe. Sure, I'd lived in Hong Kong for four years, the Pearl of the Orient. I'd been spoilt and I'd grown to love the glittering harbour city so fiercely, I wanted to call it my forever home. I also, rather foolishly, thought the fragrant harbour had me prepared for mainland China. How wrong I was. … [Read more...]
Ground Hog Day: This is what life in China’s Coronavirus lockdown is really like.
"Ever heard of the movie Ground Hog Day? Well that pretty much sums up how we feel." Those are the words of my good friend, Jenna, living in Xi'an, North West China with her husband and two girls, nine and thirteen. "With school closed until at least the 18th of February, it's get up, breakfast, exercise, play with toys, boardgames, cook, repeat," she says. Xi'an is in Shaanxi Province which shares a border to the south with Hubei Province, and its capital Wuhan, the epicentre of the Coronavirus outbreak. Currently over 20,000 people worldwide have developed the virus with over 400 confirmed deaths. While that figure is steadily rising, and has now overtaken the death toll from SARS, it's still only a two per cent fatality rate. But China's Communist Party is taking no chances. At least not at face value. The outbreak has prompted a response unlike any other in modern history, with Chinese authorities locking down many cities and towns around Wuhan, the city of 11 million where it's believed the virus originated in a market selling wild animals. That's tens of millions of people effectively shut off from the outside world. Anyone who's ever been to China will tell you, there's rarely a quiet moment in the nation with the world's largest population. The streets are at best, chaotic - humming with people, cars, busses, motorbikes, food carts, and street cleaners, day and night -- all fighting for their space amongst the pandemonium. The noise can be almost deafening. But not this month. "It feels very eery, like a ghost town, everything is closed down. The only places that are required to stay open are the supermarkets and hospitals. At our complex one gate is completely sealed off, with one left open for us to get out and go shopping. No one from outside the building is allowed in. No family, no friends." "The days are still and far too silent for this city of 9 million people." says Jenna, who having lived in China for 13 years, has seen it all. Her main concern though is the millions who sell fruit and veggies at the local wet markets or run local restaurants. "How are they going to get an income?" she wonders. "At least the big companies are looked after by the government." An Australian friend Robyn, who's been in China for nine years, and was due to return home to Australia any day now (flights depending) is feeling bereft that there will be no goodbyes in person, no last hot pot meals, just a quiet exit. "We are now very isolated in this crowded city," she says. She has a friend who lives in the south east of Henan, very close to the border of Hubei Province, just three hours drive from Wuhan. She tells her, all roads into my village are barricaded. "So instead of the normal flocks of people returning to celebrate Spring Festival, my village is very quiet. Everyone is bored and strangely no groups of people are milling around talking and no children are playing." Temperature taking is the new norm across the Middle Kingdom. Officials in full Hazmat-style body suits are taking temperatures at random, catching people when they go out, and when they return home, and everything is being recorded. Police and security guards are knocking on people's doors to check if anyone in the household's feeling unwell, is harbouring any visitors or has travelled anywhere in the past week. And in a nation that survives on Taobao deliveries with thousands of little Tuk Tuks weaving in and out of laneways delivering packages to one and all 24/7, now, all deliveries are left at the gates, making contact minimal. Messages come through on We Chat, the What's App equivalent, informing people there will be 'centralised spraying of medicinal drugs by aircraft." What drugs nobody is really sure. The communal areas in Jenna's apartment are regularly sprayed down with vinegar, while a friend's complex is doused in bleach. Public transport is down to a bare minimum. Didi the Uber equivalent has stopped and taxis are few and far between. If you do manage to hale a taxi and they stop, you need to show your passport; all details are recorded including where they picked you up and dropped you off. In Wuhan, naturally, things have reached another level with almost everything closed. Bibby, a Chinese local says, people are told not to go out unless it's an absolute emergency. "Supermarkets are open for a limited time from 10am to 6pm with meat and veggies the most difficult to buy, and always the first thing to run out." Face masks, which have usually only been an accessory for foreigners protecting themselves against the heavy pollution are now mandatory, or face a hefty fine. Hotel General Manager, Peter, in Shenzhen, China's far southwest, had just come through the border crossing from Hong Kong after evacuating his teenage daughter, when he messaged me. "It's unheard of but almost no-one is at immigration and everyone going through has to fill in a health declaration." He has 400 hotel staff due back from various provinces around China after Chinese New Year and is renting rooms to quarantine them. Meantime, in Hong Kong, thousands of medical workers have gone on strike, demanding the city’s government shut down all of its borders with mainland China, to keep out the spread of the virus they call WARS. Many foreigners have chosen to leave the city which is already reeling from months of pro-democracy protests, not to mention the 2003 SARS epidemic which still weighs heavily on the city. Hong Kong local, Mona, says back then, they all worked together to fight the disease but 2020 is very different. "We urged the government to close the borders as quickly as possible but they are not listening." "Because of no planning the supply of masks is extremely tight and people are queuing up for four to five hours to buy just one box of masks, with some stores selling them for HKD900 (US$115). Hong Kong infectious disease experts are urging the government to take 'draconian' measures, estimating as many as 44,000 people could be infected in Wuhan, a figure far higher than official numbers. Amongst the uncertainty, it's believed the epidemic could peak around the end of April, early May. This article from Well Women explains why, despite the risk, so many expats are still choosing to stay in China. For them, ground hog day or not, it's still home and in many instances, probably safer than travelling. Nicole Webb is a Sydney Journalist, Writer and Speaker who spent seven years in China. Her debut memoir 'China Blonde' will be out mid 2020. … [Read more...]
China Travel: Six Important Things to Know Before You Go.
Despite the many blog posts, I’ve written about China, I still get asked all sorts of questions from people about to embark on their big adventure to the Middle Kingdom. So, I’ve put together a quick ‘go to’ list, of essentials, to make sure you’re not caught short when you visit China. Before you go: 1. Download a VPN If you want to be able to use Google, your Gmail account, pop over to Face Book for a nosey, check out Twitter, or use any social media accounts for that matter, or perhaps you want to text home using What’s App, or watch a bit of Netflix -- heads up, you won’t be able to do any of that in China! At least not without a VPN. With many websites banned in the country, a VPN, also known as a Virtual Private Network, simply tricks your computer and/or internet into thinking it’s somewhere else i.e. another country. This allows you to log into all the things you can’t leave home without. In China, it came to be known as my ‘VPS’ –Virtual Protector of Sanity. So, how do you get a VPN? I wrote a post a few years ago on the logistics of choosing a VPN, you can read that here but because those that work best tend to change every year and China is often banning certain VPNs, I’ve also done the legwork to come up with a list of those that are most effective in 2019. NordVPN NordVPN is recommended by those in the know and has kept its focus on becoming one of the better VPNs in China. It also offers good value for money. Click here for more information. Express VPN. Express VPN has long been and still is classed as one of the most efficient and easiest to use. In fact, it was the one we used when we lived in China and was by far the most consistent. VyprVPN VyprVPN began in 2006 in China and has become one of the most popular VPNs. Their security levels are top notch and their speed is excellent. Private Internet Access These guys are one of the simplest to use. You’ll also see they are one of the cheapest. Private VPN Experts say Private VPN is great when used on Stealth mode! 12VPN 12VPN also gets top marks and consistently provides good service. Surfshark Surfshark works well and can help you bypass tough censorship, including the ability to unblock Netflix in the US! Astrill One of the biggest VPN providers, Astrill is still favoured by many as the premier VPN provider in China. All of these obviously cost money so if you’re looking for a FREE VPN for a few days and you’re not too fussy about speed and consistency, try the following: *Hotspot Shield *Windscribe *TunnelBear *bVPN And for the very latest information on the best VPN for your needs (August 2020), check out Consumer Advocate's post here. Best VPN's Based on In-depth Reviews. 2. Install a Translation App While English is spoken by many Chinese, it’s still quite limited in a lot of cities, especially outside the top four. It can be hard to have more than a basic conversation, so it will pay to have a back-up in the form of a good translation app downloaded before you go. These days, there are those that translate your voice directly - what more could you want? Which one to use? Baidu Translate Baidu is one of the easiest because it’s a China-approved app, so will never be blocked and it’s free. Users say conversations are fast and reasonably accurate. Google Translate Google Translate is one of the best but will be blocked unless you have your VPN (see above). It offers both voice and conversation translation. iTranslate Reviewers say it’s one of the best with a great user experience but unfortunately does cost. Good for those who aren’t technically inclined (ahem, yours truly). Microsoft Translator This one isn’t blocked and is free. Very simple to use. You can hear the translation as well as see it in Chinese characters and pinyin. PLECO If you just want a simple app on your phone to type in English words and find out the Chinese equivalent, I couldn’t get by without Pleco. Obviously, the key to using a VPN and any translation app is WIFI, whether that’s with your own data or connecting to the hotel or local WiFi. If you are using Chinese WiFi, warning: don’t expect miracles when it comes to speed! 3. Using Money in China First things first, be sure to tell your bank you’re going overseas, so your cards aren’t blocked. Secondly, be aware that many places in China still don’t take foreign credit cards. (Girls, just FYI Zara and H & M do!) ;) Your best bet is to carry some cash. And because many western banks don’t carry the Chinese Yuan (RMB), it’s probably easiest to exchange enough money at the airport to get you by, at least until you reach your hotel, for things like a taxi from the airport and food. From there on in, you should be able to use your debit card to withdraw from an ATM – make sure they have the Visa or Mastercard logo. Those major banks that should allow you to do this are: Bank of China, China Merchant’s Bank or ICBC. ATMs do have English, but you will need your pin for both debit and credit cards. Of course, WeChat and Alipay are now taking over cash in China for locals as the most popular forms of payment, but even though there is an option to add a foreign credit card to the apps, I’m told it’s not as reliable or perhaps easy as you think. **Also, note, if you’re using cash in Chinese shops, do expect it may be funnelled through a machine which detects whether or not they’re fake notes. Unfortunately, this is a reality in China, and I’ve known tourists to be caught out, even when withdrawing from an ATM. 4. Travelling Around China If you want to book travel flights within China, the best online site is Ctrip, now called Trip.com. It's generally cheaper than foreign companies and they have English-speaking phone support in case you have any problems. Beware, there’s a big possibility (like a fifty per cent chance) that any flight you take in China will be delayed, so be prepared! Also, there’ll likely be no English spoken on Chinese domestic carriers and the food tends to be a little dubious. Trains on the other hand, almost always run on time and are extremely speedy and efficient. China's bullet trains run at 300km plus an hour and have you there in no time at all! They’re also safe and pretty comfortable too. For timetables in English, these two sites are recommended and are also good options to purchase your tickets online. - www.china-diy-travel.com (also gives fares, in RMB) - www.chinahighlights.com (also gives fares, in US$) www.chinatt.org Try to book well in advance as tickets do get sold out, especially if there are any big national holidays looming. You can also book trains on Trip.com You can try buying your tickets at the stations, especially Beijing, but before you do, I highly recommend checking out this site which is super detailed on everything to do with trains in China! Note: You will need your passport for all ticket purchases. To get around most cities in China, a taxi is usually your best option. Cash is still the easiest method to pay your fare with unless you have WeChat or Alipay. Some taxis will refuse to give you change for 100RMB so make sure you have smaller notes on hand too. Before you get in, ensure you have the name of your destination written in Chinese or a card from the hotel, to hand the driver. It is law for Chinese taxis to use a meter so if you’ve flagged down a normal cab, check that it’s on and if they refuse by trying to negotiate a ‘price’ with you, you can simply refuse and exit the cab. Most taxis are bright colours, red, green or yellow, so you can't miss them, but there are also what’s known as illegal ‘black cabs.’ These so called cabbies don’t use meters and can end up costing you much more than you bargained for. If you do use one, try and negotiate a price before you get in. In many city’s don’t be surprised if taxis refuse to pick up foreigners. It’s not personal, they simply don’t want the hassle of someone who can’t speak the language. Thankfully, what is more popular now is the Chinese Uber equivalent, Didi Chuxing.Download this app and set up your payment method before you leave home.It is available in English and they do take foreign credit cards! For more information you can check out this link here 5. Using a Phone When you’re travelling, having network data is key, right? As I mentioned, WiFi isn't always available so connecting to a Chinese network is crucial. You can do this with international roaming, which is obviously the easiest way, but it can also be the most expensive. Alternatively, you can purchase a Chinese SIM card but this does mean your phone needs to be unlocked or you can buy a cheap Chinese phone when you arrive. Travel China Cheaper goes into extensive detail here. There’s also another option which involves renting a phone and wifi for China online. This will give you a Chinese phone number, which is often needed when connecting to WiFi in public places, help you avoid any security concerns, and basically save you a whole lot of time! Here are the details to do this. 6. Powering up In mainland China, Hong Kong and Macau, the power supplied to sockets is 220 volts at 50Hz AC. This is similar to what you’ll find in most of Europe and Australia but different to the 110V 60Hz found in the United States and Canada. There are a variety of plugs found in China, but the 220V 50Hz electrical current stays the same. If you find that you have a device rated for 220V or 240V that won’t fit any of these plugs make sure you purchase a simple travel plug converter before you leave. Now you've got all that, time to get packing! Struggling with what to pack? Check out my post on the Top Ten Things to Pack When Travelling to China And just before you go, couple of key things to remember: The tap water in China is NOT drinkable (that includes brushing your teeth).Air pollution can be a serious hazard, particularly in the winter months. Make sure you bring a mask to wear if levels are extremely high. I recommend Vog Masks.And of course, avoiding travel insurance is simply not an option. … [Read more...]
The Top 5 Secret Destinations in Japan….shhhhh.
Guest Post I've never been to Japan. I know!! It's always been on my bucket list and living in Asia, it was always one of those "we'll get there eventually" destinations. But sadly, we left before we made it. Boo! Still I'm not giving up hope! So when I got offered some expert tips on some 'top secret' places to go in Japan, I figured I'd sneakily keep them up my sleeve, for 'one day!' Then I thought, hang on, it's only fair I share them with you, right? To this day, Japan is an alluring destination for travellers the world over. Not only does it have a great deal of amazing sushi (which had me at hello) super public transport and beautiful Cherry Blossoms (which FYI, are only in Spring), it also has an incredibly rich history and culture. (And writing all this makes me want to kick myself that we lived so close and missed it!) Research shows, most of us only visit the cities of Tokyo and Kyoto; I guess it's easier to go to the bigger cities when you don't know a country well and/or you're pressed for time. Still experts say you should really get out there and see some of the most spectacular places Japan has to offer. So without further ado, here are a few destinations that I've been told, you should make a note of, if Japan is on your holiday radar! Shikoku The Iva Valley in Shikoku is apparently a fantastic place to hike and raft along the river, if that's your thing. You can also enjoy an abundance of natural hot springs and waterfalls. There, the island of Naoshima is renowned for being a haven for artists and has this fantastic selection of museums and galleries. I'm told, in recent years its magical atmosphere and incredible Benesse House has become a destination for travellers seeking the ultimate luxury. Yep put this one on the list, my friends! Hokkaido Too many visitors to Japan miss the beautiful island of Hokkaido off their itinerary. In the country's far north, this is a place to really escape the grind and indulge in some amazing natural wonders, not to mention some pretty spectacular wildlife. Hokkaido also boasts some incredible hot springs and some of the best skiing in Asia. And I know how much avid skiers love to go to Japan for a run. In the winter, resorts like Niseko come alive with brilliant places to ski and snowboard, and the Sapporo Snow Festival sounds like a definite highlight. The colourful Furano Flower Fields are also a must-visit in the summertime, and Hokkaido is also famed for its fantastic food options – the seafood here is apparently as good as anything you'll find anywhere in Japan. Okinawa This is apparently one of Japan’s most under-appreciated destinations. Okinawa is the spot to relax, enjoy the sunshine and experience some of the best hospitality anywhere in Japan. The beaches are among the most beautiful in the country and the Ryukyu culture is still very much evident, influencing everything from art and culture to music and cuisine. Naha is the busiest city in the archipelago of islands that make up Okinawa (and we can't forget, it was previously the site of a US military base during the Second World War). The history, both recent and distant, is fascinating and in many places here, the old way of life still endures; so tourists can catch a glimpse of Japan as it was centuries ago. Kyushu This is a destination with so much to offer. It is one of Japan’s major islands and yet many tourists still tend to go elsewhere when they visit. The two biggest cities on the island are Fukuoka and Nagasaki, and between them they offer some incredible attractions, including volcanoes, hot springs and lush sprawling forests. Takachiho Gorge is stunning, having been formed by the remnants of a volcanic eruption hundreds of thousands of years ago. This site includes a series of jaw-dropping waterfalls and its colours change as the seasons pass. Experts say Autumn is definitely the best time of the year to visit what is undeniably one of the most beautiful places in Japan. Osaka Although this is officially Japan’s second largest city, many tourists still skip it as a destination in favour of Tokyo and Kyoto. Osaka is a modern city in every sense of the word; with excellent places to eat and drink and a vibrant population that knows how to enjoy itself. Sake tasting is almost a sport here and the city’s most famous street food, Takoyaki, has to be experienced to be believed. Osaka Castle is well worth a visit and the park of the same name is a great place to spend an afternoon. The Kaiyukan aquarium is one of the very best in the world and would be a fantastic day out for families. So, what are you waiting for. I know I'm even more intrigued after this..... Japan here we come. This is without doubt one of Japan’s true hidden gems. Home to stunning natural beauty, it lends itself to an authentic Japanese experience, and, hello, isn't that what we're all looking for? I know some of the best trips I've ever done have been when we get to immerse ourselves well and truly with the locals and experience the 'real' place. You can thank me later... ;) And be sure to let me know if you have any other amazing destinations we can add. … [Read more...]
Amsterdam: The Land of Canals, Clogs, Cycling and Coffee Shops
To be honest, we chose Amsterdam for a quick adventure because it was close. Close to the UK that is. Less than an hour's flying time and there you are, voila, in an entirely different country, complete with a different culture and language! Mind you, we all know about those one hour flights that tease you into thinking it's going to be akin to getting in your car and driving around the block, not half a day trudging through airports, stripping down for x-rays and waiting for your bag that's having its own strip search because you forgot to put your Blistex in a clear plastic bag. Anyway, we made it... and the minute we stepped foot into Dutch territory, I was blown away by how friendly this nation of people is. The normally sullen, slightly intimidating Customs folk you come to expect at airports were anything but, wishing us a great trip in Amsterdam before sending us on our merry way. Say what. It only got better, the taxi driver from the airport insisted on carrying all our bags, calling us Sir and Madam and even gave us an estimated time of arrival. And the cab was a Merc! Typically, we didn't have much of an itinerary mapped out for our brief three day visit, but the city centre was pretty much our starting point. We caught a tram/train in, which was also a ridiculously easy and smooth ride and popped out of the underground station into the middle of a European wonderland. So picturesque was this little slice of Europe, I was completely taken aback. I'm not sure what I'd been expecting but those childhood images of Holland and an abundance of windmills, clogs and tulips weren't too far off the mark (except for the Tulips which are only in Spring). But what surprised me the most was that the Dutch capital is set on a maze of canals winding through the city like silk ribbons. Nicknamed the Venice of the North, Amsterdam is nothing short of charming. It's enchanting atmosphere was clearly hypnotising because we immediately boarded a boat, which may well have been any boat. It was the first boat we saw that seemed to be piling excited tourists on, so we followed suit, eager to join the fray. In hindsight having later seen a number of other boats cruising the canals, we may have been wiser to wait more than a split second before saying ahoy, because we saw some sleek open top vessels gliding down the canals with cheese laden tables and bars bearing buckets of champagne on ice. Next time. Nonetheless, we still managed to get a good glimpse of Amsterdam in all her glistening glory. In a nod to the Renaissance style, it's fascinating architecture is a mishmash of tall, skinny, multi-coloured, slightly crooked buildings with white framed windows, like something out of a fairytale. Apparently, they built them extremely narrow back then, given the cost of the house was dependent on its width. Hence they also have steep narrow staircases making it next to impossible to move furniture in and out. Because of this a metal hook has been fixed to the top of each building to hoist heavy items in and out through the windows. Genius. True to form, everyone in Amsterdam cycles. It felt like we were the only ones who weren't on two wheels. I was desperate to try out a Bakfiet, the bikes with the big wooden carts on the front, but with just three days, we were pressed for time. You can do bike tours though, that give you the full Amsterdam experience! Once off our canal cruise and on dry land, we wandered the Old Town - a magical labyrinth of cobblestoned laneways, flanked by shops laden with cheese, enormous pizzas stuffed with mouthwatering toppings, waffles and poffertjes. And, of course those other cookies you can get your hands on in almost any retail shop. Whether it's cannabis cookies, space cakes, marijuana brownies or chocolate cannabis, it's all there amongst the Dove chocolate bars and Brie Cheese. If you've heard anything about Amsterdam it's probably that the city is renowned for its 'coffee shops' where you can partake in a little Mary Jane action. My imagination ran away with pictures of people puffing away in every cafe, restaurant and bar, but it wasn't quite that obvious. To my surprise, despite the profusion of coffeeshops, marijuana is not actually legal in the Netherlands. It is, however acceptable under gedoogbeleid - meaning a 'policy of tolerance' and the authorities will turn a blind eye to those in possession of 5g or less. Coffeeshops are allowed to store a maximum of 500g of cannabis on the premises at any one time. Either way, roaming around this part of town was definitely a mind boggling experience. The other thing Amsterdam is known for is its famous Red Light district or 'de Wallen' and it's set right there amidst the bustling shops and restaurants. Prostitution has been legal in the Netherlands since 1811 and is a thriving industry today. Skirting one of the city's splendid canals, rows of buildings with shop front windows each divided into the size of your average shop fitting room is lit up with neon red lights and occupied by scantily clad women, known as 'Window Prostitutes.' It's not until after around 9pm when the district really comes to life. Of course, it had to be seen to be believed, so we sidled past the 'windows' for a sticky beak. It actually didn't feel sleazy. Most of them were young and gorgeous women who I discovered (upon my stealth like investigations) each hire their own (fitting) room for the night, charging around 50 Euro for 15 minutes. The price and 'activity' is generally negotiated with a knock at the glass window, which is actually a door that opens. Once the deal is done, the red curtain is pulled shut, locking out the prying eyes of tourists! Whilst waiting, many of the girls were on their mobile phones, others were doing a little jig in the window, while some were just shooting the breeze with the girl next door. Mind you, we did see a lot of drunk tourists knocking on the window for a chat. As a prime tourist spot though, everything is super laid back and it's definitely one of the safer Red Light Districts in the world. Not too far from the hustle and bustle of this laneway precinct is Dam Square, the city's historical centre surrounded by some spectacular buildings. And pigeons! Lots of them! Beware the man who gives you rice to feed them. Of course there's so much to do in Amsterdam it was nigh on impossible for us to tick everything off in three short days. From the Anne Frank Museum (which I recommend booking in advance) to the Van Gogh Museum, Rembrandt's House and the Rijksmuseum, The Jewish Museum and the Corrie Ten Boom House in Haarlem, also known as the Hiding Place which saw the Ten Boom family provide a hiding place for Jewish people and the resistance members during World War Two. Oh and don't forget the plethora of magnificent windmills dotting the city. For more on what to do check out the Trip Advisor Link here Until then, when in Amsterdam.....wear clogs! … [Read more...]