We’d only been in the air 2.5 hours and we were touching down in what felt like ‘a world away’ from Xi’an. The sky was clear, the air was warm and thick with humidity …. a blanket of lush palm trees stretched out as far as the eye could see. My heart lifted…possibly the only problem I’d face on this holiday was an unsuspected falling coconut. China and the tropics aren’t two words you would usually put together, right? China’s all about being a contrast of strapping concrete jungles and ramshackle villages, often side by side….the old and the new….the Ferraris and the Tuk Tuks, all cobbled together to make up the world’s biggest and busiest population. Nestled in China’s south west, in Hainan Province, Sanya it seems, is an exception to China’s manic rule. Looking more like Australia’s Gold Coast 40 years ago, our 30 minute drive to the hotel cut a path through the dense palm fronds; I was almost relieved to see a few three-wheelers chugging by, a couple of motorbikes saddled with entire families and some scruffy street food stalls on the corner. It was still China. Albeit - China’s Hawaii. Perched as far north from the equator as Hawaii, Sanya is on the southern tip of Hainan Island, flanked with a 20 kilometre stretch of sandy beaches. Due to its remoteness from the political centres during Imperial China, Sanya was often called ‘Tian Ya Hai Jiao’ (天涯海角) "the end of the sky and ocean" or "the end of the earth.” Consequently, it served as a place of exile for officials who found themselves ‘out of favour’ with the country’s rulers. Just quietly, it didn’t look like a bad corner of the world to be placed in captivity! Warm all year round — the coolest in January with an average of around 21 degrees, and the hottest, a balmy June with an average of 29. These days, Sanya’s singing to a different tune… It played host to the first leg of the 2008 Beijing Olympics torch relay, not to mention the 2015 Miss World pageant! And it’s the training centre of choice for the Chinese Beach Volley Ball team. Long before this though, the Nanshan Temple constructed in 1988 on the site of ancient Tang Dynasty remains to commemorate 2000 years of Buddhism in China was capable of drawing its own visitors — Monks contemplating the universe from the Seawatch Terrace, at the edge of Chinese civilisation. Oh and this...one of the tallest statues in the world! Called the Guan Yin of the South Sea of Sanya, it’s a 108 metre tall Buddhist statue studded in gold, silver and diamonds! Impressive huh? It seems, China has unearthed it’s pearl in the ocean for everyone to see. Today it’s jam-packed with hundreds of hotels, from the cheapest hostel to the six-star variety….it’s the holiday spot for around ten million tourists each year. Currently, most of them are locals…..especially in winter! Many from the north of China (including desperate foreigners like us) and Russians who like to come in their droves to escape the freezing arctic winters. Those numbers are expected to increase to 20 million by 2018, with overseas visitors reaching one million, making Sanya the largest international tourism hub in South China. Thomas Cook has even grabbed a slice of the action, signing a deal to create new travel packages direct from the UK. This influx of tourists has, as you might expect, seen Sanya face a few expected challenges. Lack of infrastructure being one of them, difficulty in reaching the location due to limited flights and airport capacity, traffic and road safety, pollution of the beaches and most importantly a shortage of quality hospitality talent to service 250+ hotels. But that isn’t slowing down the rapid expansion! Giant, sleek high-rises are under construction from every angle, reaching up into sunny skies. We stayed at the Sheraton and whilst we didn’t see too many other foreigners, when it comes to pool hopping, it seems the locals like to keep to themselves, for the most part, anyway. You could be forgiven for thinking we actually had the resort to ourselves! Yep, just us! No doubt looking highly dubious in our ‘boardies’ and bikinis, schlepping from one pool to the next for much of the day or lolling about on the beach, under the softly swaying palm trees, watching the jet skis lay idle, as the sea softly rolls in.... For the record, most Chinese don’t like to be in the sun for too long (sensible if you ask me). The very fact that we ordered lunch by the pool had the pool-boys in a slight frenzy… clearly this is not a regular occurrence. You can take China to the tropics but cocktails by the pool is still a bit of an enigma around these parts. Hence we went BYO. Of course, I’m always on the job, researching for the book — so it was with keen eyes, I witnessed the locals in true ‘holiday mode’. For many Chinese, going away for a holiday is a relatively new concept, especially a 'resort-style' vacation. Generally, locals like to come down to the pool early in the day and then come back again later -- when the sun is starting to subside. Their stints at the pool are usually conducted at lightening speed! Everyone comes at once and it’s chaos. There’s grandma, granddad, mum and dad, babies, kids, friends…everyone having a quick dip…often wearing a giant ‘floatie’ device (many Chinese can’t swim). Unicorns, swans, crocodiles take your pick…there are a myriad of giant floaties up for to hire. After a brief splash and a few happy snaps…no sooner had they arrived, they’d gone again. Just like that. And we were back to floating solo. But don’t be fooled into thinking the resort is empty. Make it to the buffet for breakfast in the morning and the place is heaving. Lunchtime and the Chinese restaurant is bustling. For many locals, the chance to relax in a decadent hotel room on a hot and humid day is no doubt far more appealing, than scorching themselves by the pool like those er, silly foreigners! If you’re feeling more energetic than some….my insider tips tell me - there’s plenty of opportunity for water sports like scuba diving (just make sure the operators are certified) jet skiing, surfing and snorkelling. WuZhiZhao Island is a popular haven for water sports with its crystal clear seas, pristine beaches and coral reefs. DaDongHai is where it all started in Sanya and is home to shopping malls and restaurants, including the recommended American style sports bar ‘Dolphin.’ There's even an opportunity to shop, when lazing around the pool all gets a bit too much! ;-) The Government knows its market well and has backed a tourism conglomerate in setting up the world’s largest duty free shopping centre. Brandishing 72,000 square metres of luxury goods bearing the the latest brand names, all you need to get in on the actions is proof of a plane ticket leaving Hainan. Pick up your goods at the airport when you say Zai Jian! There is an 8,000 yuan (US$1200) per customer spending limit though, I’m told! Tip: During Chinese New Year, it's more than likely, the city will be flooded with tourists and you can expect everything to be extremely expensive, so perhaps not the best time to go! To date, flights operate from most major cities in China, including Hong Kong and Taiwan. There are also seasonal chartered flights to Singapore. So if you want to do very little in the way of…well… anything — you had better jump on the wagon and check out these super flight and holiday deals the guys at Paylesser sent me. They assist travellers like you, by offering a wide range of the latest coupons and offers including hotel discount coupons! (You're welcome!) ;-) Oh and don't forget to try the seafood. Happy Holidays! This is China’s Hawaii! … [Read more...]
Two Years in China: What I Know Now….
I’ve really struggled to write this post. I’ve procrastinated. Oh how I’ve procrastinated…sometimes choosing washing and window-cleaning over writing! Yes. I know. :roll: It’s just that - how do you sum up two years in this place? How do I describe my feelings without giving you the usual spiel about crazy drivers, squat toilets and constant fireworks erupting into the morning sky? Whilst there probably hasn’t been a day go by in these last two years where I haven’t thought, “What the heck are we doing here?!” - the ancient city of Xi'an, for all its complexities and challenges has become my home away from home, tucked in the middle of the world’s most populous country. This ‘experience’ that we’ve had (and survived) has been beyond even my wildest imagination. I often see pretty, no - make that ‘stunning’ pictures of my old, beloved home towns, Sydney and Hong Kong - on social media - and yearn for their beauty and comfort. But for all their pull, I still wouldn’t swap this journey for all the tea in China. (I know, I’ve used that line before, ironically as the title for my first blog post and two year anniversary in Hong Kong! Want to read it? Here it is.) Of course, the daily obstacles are at best, annoying! At worst, ‘crazy pulling hair out’ inducing! The necessity to stock up, when I’m out of town, with enough medication for any medical emergency that may crop up is constantly exasperating. (Thank goodness for friends who happily share their drugs when you forget an essential item!) The inability to use anything remotely technical (like a computer) with the simple push of a button, torments me. The fortnightly bouts of nausea from food, water, lack of hygiene, or whatever it may be - drains me. The impossibility to find a hairdresser who colours blonde hair or someone to wax my unruly eyebrows and so forth in a city of 9 million frustrates me. My incapability to decipher a full conversation in mandarin after studying the language consistently for two years pains me, as it does the hotelier (and many other expat workers) along with their daily frustrations at managing businesses conducted in a way that is generally foreign to us. The layers of bureaucracy for something as simple as buying groceries or getting a visa both amuse and perplex me. My lack of independence at being unable to drive bothers me and the mental muscle that’s required just to go for a coffee can be exhausting. Winter’s harsh pollution can get you down… and the constant flow of expat friends trailing out of our lives saddens us. Yet for all of these challenges, I have found myself richer in the knowledge and experience of a culture that is far removed from my own. (Not to mention given my sense of humour an incredible work out!) ;) China is a country that is evolving like no other country on the planet. No nation has ever risen as quickly or modernised as rapidly in human history as the Middle Kingdom, that is China. I know we're witnessing a truly fascinating time in history. For all of its economic glory, constant progression and seemingly infallible growth, Zhong Guo (China) is still a developing country. As I try to capture this moment in time for my upcoming book and speak to many locals and expats on the ground, I’m learning so much about these people who are known by many in the western world for little more than their uncouth behaviour when travelling overseas and a soaring economy that is currently only second behind the United States. But it is a country that until just a little over 30 years ago was utterly entrenched in poverty, having endured decades of chaos. While most people had a job, they had little money and basic commodities were scarce. In the late seventies a sign of wealth was having the so called “four big things” - a bike, a radio, a sewing machine and a watch. The People’s Republic of China is run by the Communist Party of China and has been for more than 60 years and while there's been unprecedented change, tradition runs deep. There is still an authoritarian rule from above that commands its people under a banner of glowing media headlines that constantly sing China’s praises. Most people have an overly-inflated view of their home country, which is possibly not a bad thing because the country appears united in its love for ZhongGuo. Most are oblivious to the perils of the Great Fire Wall and insist they are happy to have one party in power. Anything more and there’s a grave fear the country will fall into chaos and disunity. With a 5000 year history firmly etched in their minds, you’ll be hard pressed to find anyone who can’t recite a famous line from one of China's ancient dynasties or rattle off a centuries old poem and you’ll be just as hard pressed to find anyone who doesn’t believe in the powers of warm water. Chairman Mao who infamously ruled China from 1949 to 1978 is generally hailed a hero, despite the atrocities during his reign. His face appears on China’s currency and pictures and statues are easily identifiable around the country. His legend lives on. Education is the lifeblood of Chinese. This nation’s children live and breathe it from the moment they are born until they finish university. In a country of 1.4 billion, it’s considered the only way to get ahead. Despite being the factory floor of the world and churning out almost every product known to mankind, China’s own shop floor is lacking in goods. All is not lost though because almost every one is a mad ‘Taobao’ shopper. An online eBay equivalent, where you can order almost anything you could dream of and at a fraction of the cost. Little Tuk Tuks race all over the city, piled high with parcels to deliver! Despite having more universities than you can count, many who train medical students from all over the world and develop groundbreaking medical practices, the standard of healthcare outside the first tier cities is questionable by western expectations. Some doctors still smoke in hospital corridors, hygiene is debatable and most women have little knowledge about life saving procedures like pap smears. The one child policy has recently been relaxed but abortions at very late stages are still taking place, legally. Busses proudly display large signs advertising the best place to get one. “Don’t feel bad if you are pregnant by accident. Easy to solve if you choose wisely.” The gay and lesbian community is largely underground….(at least in most cities outside the capital). It was only in 2001 when homosexuality was removed from the official list of mental illnesses in China. And political correctness isn’t really a ‘thing’ yet, (as you may have noticed on a recent China Air travel magazine doing the rounds on social media). The gap between the rich and poor is ever increasing…. there is an elite group of Rolls Royce driving, cigar smoking, designer bag-wielding patriots who rule the masses, but overall most of China’s people are still living below the poverty line. But, there’s a but… in their minds they are rich. What they all have now compared to just a few decades ago, when most people could not eat much more than scraps is insurmountable. And it shows. These people are fiercely proud. Family is everything….oh and food! Chinese don’t greet you with how are you? If anything it’s “Chi le ma?” Have you eaten? When they are younger, grandparents take care of their grandchildren full-time, while parents work - often having them live with them. That is a given. The very elderly are automatically taken care of by their children, usually living under the same roof and that is also non negotiable. Society still believes that women should be married by the age of 27 or they’ll be tarnished as ‘leftover’ women. Thankfully, despite the ongoing pressure, most of the young women I know aren’t buying into this anymore! China's other relationship is with ‘Guanxi’ (which translates as ‘relationship or connections’) and is otherwise known as giving money and gifts to solve everything and anything. Guanxi is ingrained in society from the bottom up, in almost every aspect of life. Currently, health and Safety is largely an after thought. Whilst many thousands of years ago this country built things to last for many thousands of years — today they live only for tomorrow. China has admittedly for all intents and purposes been so busy building itself from scratch to become a viable country, it’s only now that it seems they have time to turn around and reflect. Time to start educating the masses on etiquette, hygiene and manners and time to start caring for the environment. You can appreciate, it’s a mammoth task. How do you educate over a billion people? For all of its discrepancies, China is a country where it’s (mostly) safe to walk down the streets at night, people are always happy to help you (unless you are injured and they will steer clear for fear of being held liable) and are often as friendly (and curious) as a new puppy. As much as they admittedly talk in circles and it’s often hard to know what they’re really thinking, we’ve been lucky enough to witness their kindheartedness firsthand and make some special friends. From acupuncturists who make me lunch, to hairdressers who take me for coffee, waitresses who look after my small person and locals who’ve brought me soup when I’ve been sick. To locals who've translated for doctors when my child’s been sick, translated for me many times, at all hours of the day and night and given us gifts beyond their means. People who've basically helped us adjust to life in a foreign country. There is an enduring innocence, in a place where Tai Chi, Calligraphy and Mahjong are still the hobbies of the day. Most have never travelled overseas (only six per cent have a passport) but as the country grows along with people's individual wealth, they are now starting to embrace their newfound wings. This is nation of people who are emerging like butterflies from a cocoon, ready to fly…. But you can rest assured, they will always come back to their nest. Two years in, this is what I know now. This is China. … [Read more...]
Travelling Solo in China: Is it Safe?
Living in China — Hong Kong and then Xi’an on the mainland — for the past six years, it’s become increasingly obvious, just how safe these cities are. Let's face it, almost every time we turn on the television, we see images of bombed cities in complete disarray, children bloodied and shell-shocked… terror attacks in countries we’ve always felt safe travelling to. Then there are the street muggings, robberies, rapes and murders. The list, sadly, goes on. And because of that, I’ve heard many people say: in today’s climate they are simply too afraid to travel, especially to somewhere like China! I’m not saying the above doesn’t happen in both Hong Kong and potentially the quieter city of Xi’an or greater China for that matter, oh it definitely does! Both these cities boast populations around the 8 or 9 million mark, so there are without doubt a lot of “underground” scandals! But in general, as a place to live with your kids….a place to travel….a place to be a woman on your own, China is remarkably safe and a surprisingly peaceful hub in a world, that is seemingly more and more fraught with danger and fear. So when a friend asked me to write a piece on solo travel for women in China, I thought, "Hell yes! Why not!" because with nearly two-thirds of travellers today being women, I’m sure there are a lot of you, who have thought about it - but put off travelling to an unknown quantity like China. But, let me reassure you! TRAVELLING ALONE IN CHINA IS SAFE! For starters, in both Hong Kong and Xi’an….I have rarely, if ever felt uncomfortable walking around, late at night. Clearly, you need to have your wits about you and avoid dark, uninhabited spots, but in general, both cities, though chalk and cheese - are uniquely sheltered environments. Hong Kong’s bright lights and big city fit into a small and compact area. It’s overcrowded, for sure! But there’s an astonishing 'orderliness' that reigns over the fragrant harbour. I spoke about it briefly in this post A for Effort…a few years ago. Much the same can be said in the more innocent and less savvy Xi'an. As a woman, in many countries, if I was walking towards a group of men, on my own, I could potentially feel a little intimidated - head down, walk quickly. Here - it’s never a glaring problem. 'Glaring' being the operative word. There’s glaring and there’s glaring, right? I rarely find Asian men glaring at me in a sexually suggestive way. Glaring perhaps at the absurdity of this strange white woman strolling the streets, but it’s usually nothing more than an innocent curiosity. That in itself takes the pressure off going anywhere alone in these cities. It gives you a freedom, that I think, many women in other countries may not even realise they’re missing. DRESS CODE Women can freely dress however they choose in China and that applies to travellers too. Most Chinese women though, do dress relatively conservatively, so you’re less likely to garner unnecessary attention if you’re not too revealing! But to be honest you will be the centre of attention no matter what you wear. As a foreigner, many locals - particularly outside the first tier cities - will be curious about the foreign lady (or man for that matter) in town. Put a child into the mix and there's even more attention! The people of China are in general extremely peaceful and friendly, so your best bet is to take it all with a grain of salt. Some may even try to touch you, just say Bu Yao Le! (Boo Yow La! which means “Don’t!”) if you're not comfortable and they'll soon get the message! Otherwise, you’ll experience a tiny taste of what it’s like to have celebrity status being constantly ‘papped!’ Some will even want to practice their English with you. If you’re up for it, don’t be scared. For the most part it’s all harmless chatter. PICKPOCKETS You’ll be pleased to know, given it’s humongous size and population, overall, China has a relatively low murder rate….less than half that of the United States. China has severe criminal penalties (by a wide margin, China executes more criminals annually than any other country). It’s also commonly reported that Chinese courts (rightly or wrongly) have a 99 per cent conviction rate. It's said Chinese criminals understand, committing a crime against a foreigner is bad publicity (or 'loss of face') for the country’s lucrative tourism industry, not to mention the hefty penalties they'll cop. Plus with CCTV in many places, it's easy to be caught out. Big Brother is always watching! As a tourist of course, you can fall victim to petty crime. Take precautions and be careful around tourist hot spots and in crowded places like markets or on public transport. I’ve heard stories about pickpockets carrying large bags and placing them under the tourist’s handbag, cutting the bottom out so the contents fall into theirs. Don’t tempt thieves and carry valuables in full view in these places and try to carry as little cash as possible. *Tip: Most places won't take foreign credit cards, especially outside first tier cities. If you’re at a market and you’ve shown the slightest interest in something i.e. looked sideways or touched it, you might have vendors chasing after you down the street trying to sell it to you! If you’re definitely not interested just ignore them and keep walking! Another popular hang out for thieves is crowded restaurants. You might notice that Chinese never hang their purses or bags on the chair behind them like many of us or plonk them on the floor (like I used to)! The reasons are two fold…one it’s safer and two the floor is usually considered too filthy to place your bag on. When I first arrived in China I was given a rather stern look for placing my bag beside my feet!! (Some tables in cafes actually have hooks under the table for your bag or they’ll bring you an extra chair, yes just for your handbag, ladies!) SCAMS Of course, China is the home of fakes! Almost everything can be copied (and that includes food)! I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but just about all brand-name items for sale in small shops or on the streets probably aren't the real deal! As a foreign tourist, there's every chance you could find yourself paying double what something is worth. Counterfeit money is also a big problem on the mainland, so don’t be alarmed when every cashier checks your cash through a machine to determine it’s validity. It's not just you! ;) *Tip: All the bills except the one yuan note have metal ribbons from top to bottom. These should be visible as a silver line on the front of a shadow when looked at from the back. Also, the flower design near the middle of each note and Chairman Mao’s jacket image are textured. There is a popular scam in China that may see you suddenly faced with someone throwing themselves in front of your car or scooter! (If you happen to be brave enough to drive and have a licence.) Some people will do anything to get money off the "rich" foreigner. If you see someone who is injured or hurt, it will probably go against everything you believe in to ignore them...but be aware, there is no 'good samaritan' law in China and if you should injure them further, you'll be held liable. DOCUMENTS Protect your passport, tickets and visa documents by carrying them on you if you can't leave them in a safe. Keep a photocopy of your passport and other vital documents separately. Note in all hotels and hostels the staff are required by law to keep a copy of your passport while you stay there. (This is about registering you….and the government knowing who’s in town!) ROAD SAFETY In all probability, the most likely causes of harm to you as a tourist could potentially come from the road! I’m talking about car accidents, road mishaps and the like. You’ve no doubt heard me talk about the chaotic manner of the traffic many times on this blog? If you haven’t click on this post for the lowdown. Why do they drive so erratically? A big part of the problem is, they just haven’t been driving for long. In 2000, China had less than 10 million passenger vehicles (a proportion less than that of the United States in 1911). Ten years later, the number of privately owned cars in China ballooned to about 70 million. Rumours tell me there are currently 1000 new cars a day on Xi’an’s roads. It’s utter madness, but for the most part, you’ll be fine. You’ll probably feel like closing your eyes tight… or holding your stomach with all the ducking and weaving, lurching and halting, but given the amount of traffic, things move relatively slowly. You’ll see lots of bingles (Aussie term for small collisions) but hopefully nothing too major. Crossing the road on the other hand needs your attention. Most Chinese just wander out into the road without so much as a glance sideways. Jaywalking laws? Are you kidding! You are probably best not to follow suit. On China’s roads, the unspoken law is generally, whoever’s bigger gets right of way. Keep your wits about you and don’t be fooled into thinking you can cross safely on the little green man! I have watched many Chinese women stick their arm out like superman as they cross a busy intersection… it tends to work - for them! Of course, the good news is, if you’re a foreigner, chances are they’ll spot you a mile away!! Mostly Chinese drivers are experts at avoiding pedestrians. But tread carefully! TRANSPORT Generally, public transport in China is safe. That includes trains in the cities and across the country. There are many different types of tickets you can buy, but you can't beat the Bullet Train for being fast, safe, clean and easy! For a more detailed look at catching trains with in cities, click here. Travelling across China, this is a great article here. Taxis can be harder for foreigners to hail, but if you get one, make sure the metre is running. If Tuk Tuks are available, they are cheap and easy for short journeys. Busses are also doable outside of peak hour. Always, always Avoid Black Cabs! We made this mistake in Beijing outside the famous Summer Palace and the driver did try to rip us off, charging four times the normal price! These are privately-owned cars and look like VIP cabs, usually with a VIP badge, no I.D picture and a fake metre. Be careful when catching taxis from airports; always use the ones at the taxi rank. Get the driver's I.D number and insist he uses the metre. Have the name of your destination written in Chinese characters and always try to grab your bags from the boot before paying. HYGIENE The other culprit you’re more likely to fall victim to is poor hygiene leading to a dodgy tummy. Don’t drink the tap water and don’t use it to clean your teeth…(embarrassingly, the latter a recent discovery for me). *Tip: This includes in 5-star hotels! Beware when buying street food. It might smell delicious and for the record, usually tastes pretty good, but if it’s not from a recommended source, steer clear. Often, if the stall is heaving with customers and looks relatively clean, your odds of avoiding ‘la du zi’ are infinitely better. *Tip: Bring hand sanitiser because many of the bathrooms won’t have soap. This post here goes into more detail about the essentials to pack! Public toilets are common but they are mostly of the 'squat' variety and not always very clean. Be prepared for some stomach-turning sights. Tissues are a necessity. (On the upside, just think of the work out for your thighs, ladies!) ;) There are no compulsory vaccines to have before you travel to China, but it can never hurt to visit your doctor to get the latest information. HEALTHCARE Be mindful that healthcare in China is not as we know it in the western world. While the major first tier cities like Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou definitely boast higher standard hospitals, the same can’t always be said for 2nd, 3rd and 4th tier cities, which includes China's other 655 cities. Always make sure you travel with international health insurance. Most hospitals will want a deposit or payment up front before any treatment is carried out, no matter how ill you are. This post here goes into more detail about healthcare in China. During the winter months and often either side, pollution levels can be high… if you have asthma or bronchial issues try to avoid these times. Buy a mask and wear it. Download the Pollution Index Levels app so you can check the levels each day. Oh and just in case: For ambulance, ph: 120 Police, ph: 110 Also be aware of any potential rides or attractions you may be tempted to board. In major tourist spots they should be perfectly safe but I tend to rethink a few of the things in the less known cities or villages (like Ferris Wheels and cable cars), purely for the fact the Chinese often don’t build things to last (any more). *Tip: It is also a great idea to download a translation app. Pleco is a very handy dictionary app! And don’t forget to have a good time!! There are many great reasons to visit China….if you’re not convinced, you'd better check out my post here! There’s an old Confucius saying '有朋自远方来不亦乐乎' -- Translated, it means, "Chinese will warmly welcome those friends from afar!" This is China! https://mintmochamusings.com/travelling-china-where-to-go/ … [Read more...]
China’s Culture Club: Flower Power, Fruit Platters and Laughing Gas!
From the outside, it looks like it could quite easily be a quaint British pub. Of course, finding said venue in the middle of China is debatable, but for a few split seconds we kid ourselves, this cute and cosy taverna is just a hop, skip and a jump up the road. It’s definitely the flowers, draping prettily from the wooden cottage-like exterior that has us in denial. Cute little chairs and tables perch on the balcony, and you can imagine sitting there on a balmy summer’s evening (perhaps a little cooler than the current 35). Called Harbour City, about now, dripping with the effects of humidity, we are desperately wishing Xi’an was….in fact a harbour city. Let me not digress though with talk of the incessant heat that’s plagued the city for weeks. Back to the ‘pub’ up the road - clearly, the flowery theme was just a pre-cursor of what was to come! Stepping inside, it's like stepping into another world! At first glance, it looks like a wedding reception in complete over drive. My eyes boggle in awe. Gigantic, fresh floral arrangements hang from the ceiling, decorating candelabras and chandeliers in extraordinary fashion. Scenes from the Great Gatsby swirl through my head, as we’re ushered through the crowds. All eyes on us. The only white people in the venue (and potentially the oldest)! I half expect someone to come swinging down from the roof, aka Nicole Kidman style in Moulin Rouge! Whatever Harbour City is doing, after a month in business it seems they’ve got something right. Looking ever so sophisticated, this “bar” in the middle of Xi’an…a place where you can be forgiven for thinking most locals are more interested in snacking on over-sized bowls of cold noodles in the street on a Friday night…is heaving with people. The waiters hastily kick a staff member from a high bench table, tucked in beside the bar, for us to take our places in this outlandish scene. (Never mind the stools are actually chained to the table, as long as it's not us, I think.) Three (yes three) waiters bring a menu to us… of course the entire thing is in Chinese characters, which isn’t going to do us mere foreigners any favours. It's soon clear no English is spoken, so after looking blankly at the menu, in my best Chinese, I ask if they have ‘bai pu tao jiu’…white wine, to which they nod enthusiastically. Pointing to three options (again in Chinese) it’s a case of ‘eny meeny miny moe!’ Turns out ordering a 'glass' of wine is simply not an option, so a bottle it is! Regular wine is still a bit of an enigma in much of China’s bars….especially white wine. So it comes as no surprise when the bottle that arrives, is indeed red. Poured ever so carefully into a sleek glass decanter, we are dispatched with large wine glasses, two shot glasses of warm water and two cans of Sprite?! Ice is poured into our wine glasses and swished around for a good thirty seconds in what looks to be a rather high tech procedure. (Who doesn't like a good red wine on ice!! 8-O ) Next minute, an old school, silver bell is put in front of us. We assume this is to call someone when we are in need of attention (should they hear us over the loud rumbling of music). I look around at other tables…most are furnished with buckets of beer. There are VIP ‘minimum spend ‘tables boasting glowing buckets of beer stashed under the table and about a dozen Coronas lined up on the table. In China this is seen as a show of great prestige! There are also artistically carved fruit platters decorating many a table! Forget about the cheese platter or peanuts and chips. Another sign of distinction in China appears to be fruit or 'fruits' as they're more commonly known! A lady comes around selling cigarettes and cigars. Even though China authorities have banned indoor smoking, the rules are having little impact on China's 350-million smokers. The band is singing a mix of western and Chinese songs. The first song we hear is a Natalie Imbruglia tune. To hear an Aussie singer’s hit being belted out in the middle of China, is at the very least, freakishly fantastic! I wonder what most of the people in the bar think when they can’t understand the words. Does the song resonate at all? I seem to be the only one having a sly boogie...that is... until one of the many cleaning ladies, quietly pottering around, spies me and gives me a little shimmy with a cheeky laugh. A Lady Gaga song reigns out….no one is dancing though, then two of the band members are up on podiums in the middle of the club cranking out a local Asian song. Everyone gets up, mimicking the dance moves with all the energy they can muster! Some are playing a popular Chinese drinking game at their tables called ‘Liar's dice!’ About now, a waiter pops over and grabs a shot glass, proceeds to pour himself a glass of OUR red wine toasting us, knocking it back like a shot!! Cheers or "Gan bei!" he smiles. And just like that, he swaggers off, while we watch after him, highly amused. There’s a table of guys with balloons. Naturally, at first, we assume they’re blowing up balloons for their celebration… just quietly, I think it’s bit late for the party, but anyway… The thing is they keep sucking the air out of the balloons, so we start to wonder what the point in that might be! There’s also something on the table that looks remarkably like a whipped cream canister. They appear to be endlessly unscrewing and screwing a capsule that resembles a silver bullet and then attaching the balloon to the canister in earnest. Amused and perplexed we watch on as another table of girls, who’ve spent all night taking selfies, barely speaking to each other, start up on the balloons. By now I'll admit we’re completely bamboozled. I realise it’s potentially been awhile since I’ve been to a club, as such, and this is definitely no English country pub, flowers or not.. I try not to stare.......well maybe just a little. A quick Google tells us, this is indeed a craze involving inhaling nitrous oxide, otherwise known as ‘laughing gas’!! Ah ha!! Apparently it makes you feel euphoric and relaxed, for about ten seconds! Mystery solved. A little reluctantly, we emerge at around 1130…early birds I know…and who knows what happens in there as the night goes on, but I spy the champagne starting to flow. It’s 32 degrees….hot and humid…. we walk the five minutes home to the hotel. A three wheeler bike cruises past in the dark, three people are half dressed, bouncing a naked baby in the air, as they scoot past. We giggle…and they giggle back, no doubt finding us an equally odd spectacle! This is China. … [Read more...]
Traditional Chinese Medicine: That Time I Tried Acupuncture in China….Alone!
In hindsight, I probably should’ve known better than to attempt to go to a local medical establishment in Xi an, on my own! And by that I mean without my walking, talking dictionary in my back pocket - also known as 'a dear Chinese speaking friend' to ease my fears and translate for me. Clearly, sleep-deprived and a little delirious, I’ve obviously forgotten where I actually am! "Ahh hello, Nicole, you don’t speak Chinese, remember?" Well, not well enough for this sort of encounter! But, here I was, hurtling along the freeway with a non English speaking driver, off to see the Acupuncturist or 'Zhen Jiu' as I soon discover it is in Chinese. Everyone has said to me, if you do anything health wise in China, acupuncture it is! And given it's been practiced for thousands of years here, it's hard to disagree. Trivial fact: There is evidence of acupuncture around 100 BC. That said, about half way there, I realise I don’t actually know where the place is. All I have is an address in Chinese characters. Last time I was with said driver, going anywhere other than school, he got us totally lost, despite having the address and several people explaining to him in Chinese. I frantically text the address to Ava's Chinese babysitter….asking her if it has any street numbers in it. I already know it doesn’t…but I’m naively hoping she will miraculously give me some clue to where I’m going. All I know, is that it's near the coffee shop I’ve frequented a few times. It dawns on me, there are a gazillion shops in this area and even more concerning, how the heck am I going to know which one says "Acupuncturist?!" Our babysitter manages to find me a picture of the shop front, but she may as well be sending me a picture of a random door in Timbuktu… it’s a door with gold Chinese characters above it, like oh so many of the shop entrances. By now we are driving around in circles, peering at random buildings that all look similar. The driver eventually gets out and asks an elderly man on a bike. I'm doubtful he'll know so I call the Chinese lady who recommended the place to my foreign friends in the first place and she explains to the driver, but alas, it's to no avail….we keep driving, back and forth. It’s times like this I muse why we don’t have a Sat Nav, but in China everyone likes to give directions referring to the compass. North, East, South or West. For someone who is 'directionally challenged', this is about as helpful as telling me to fly myself to the North Pole. The driver is now muttering under his breath in Chinese and I keep shoving my phone at him with someone different to talk to in Chinese, realising it’s probably futile. By now we’ve done so many circles I couldn’t tell you which way is up, down, north, south, east or west. I’m about to give up and call it a day, with the stark realisation, I should’ve known better than to attempt this mission alone. I give it one last shot and call the hotel concierge with some directions from my friend in the UK, who (thankfully) has jet lag and is awake when I text her. We come to a halt outside a building that looks absolutely nothing like the picture I've been sent, which immediately makes me dubious. Where am I being dropped? I shake my head, but tell the driver to wait (also known as gesturing wildly) while I step gingerly inside to see if it looks remotely like what I expect an acupuncturist to look like. It’s a hot mid summer’s day and the temperature gauge is nudging 36 degrees. My anxiety hasn’t helped my inner thermometer and I feel myself literally fall through the door in a ball of sweat, gazing questioningly around the room. I can see what looks to be traditional medicine and a man says “Hello” in English pointing for me to go upstairs….as if he instantly knows who I am and why I'm here. I have no appointment - none is needed I’m told but I am filled with dread that I could be anywhere….my imagination running away with me and I worry it's some evil medical laboratory that may be about to harvest my organs! I scan my phone trying to find the address I have and thrust it under his nose. He looks amused and nods, yes this is it! I guess this is where I just take a calculated risk and believe it's going to be ok. I run outside to the car and give the driver the thumbs up (although they don’t really use this gesture much in China but I assume he knows what I mean). It soon becomes evident the English speaking male’s vocabulary doesn’t extend past “hello”. Typically, in the height of my angst, my Chinese is all but lost. I mumble about being told someone spoke English here and he simply smiles and shakes his head, ushering me upstairs, where I'm told (I think) to sit down in a row of lounge chairs… The air is stifling and I realise there’s no air conditioning. About now it dawns on me that I need to call someone to explain to the practitioners why I’m here and what I need. I decide the hotelier's PA is probably my best bet, seeing as she called them yesterday for me. I ask the English-non-English speaking man to wait while I anxiously swipe through my phone. With everyone on We Chat in China, finding their actual phone number constantly eludes me. Finally I just message her saying, call me, and much to my relief she does. I put her on to the doctor and then ask where the toilet is. Back downstairs, I seriously consider whether I should just make a run for it….leave and pretend this never happened. But I dust myself off from the squat toilet and tip toe back upstairs, inhaling deeply. This time I am told to remove my shoes and get up onto one of the beds. I eyeball the room for evidence of hygiene standards. It looks pristinely clean, although I note the white doctor’s coat is smeared with dirt. He tries in vain to speak to me but I’m lost….his sidekick, a woman, speaks more slowly and her gentle demeanour calms me. I hope they can’t see that I'm shaking, just a little. Both of them immediately feel my hands and feet and then in unison, gasp in horror. I hear them saying the words for cool and derive they think I am too cold. (Which is kind of ludicrous given the current climate but I understand in Chinese medical terms, it's a possibility). Then they ask me to stick out my tongue and almost recoil in horror with a lot of back and forth glances. The male doctor takes my pulse and then says something to me again. Clearly he’s not giving up. I think he’s asking me if I drink cold water and eat ice-cream. All I can respond with is "sometimes". I know how much this is a mortal sin in Chinese culture, so much so, I can honestly say, hand on heart, I rarely have cold water these days. Mind you, today of all days, I think, I’m sure I could be forgiven for indulging in a little bin xi lin (Ice cream)! Next thing the needles are out. I am relieved to see they come from a closed packet…having heard a few horror stories of needles being reused in China. I recall having acupuncture many years ago in Sydney….apart from the needles, so far, this is not quite how I remember it. There are two in each foot, one in each hand and one in my du zi! Stomach. I note that when it’s time for the one in my stomach, the male doctor promptly leaves the room so the woman can place a towel over my lower half. The needles hurt, more than I remember! I grimace but it’s bearable. To warm me up a little more, I then have two heat lamps placed over me.. One at my feet and one at my stomach…. I feel like a pig on a spit! The male doctor tries his Chinese again and I manage to apologise and say I only speak a little Chinese. …The lovely sidekick, says "Mei Guanxi." No problem. Next thing, she explains, because I’m so cold, she would like to use something else and holds up a lighter and what looks like a solid toilet roll. I nod with caution… I’m a desperate woman and I’ll try anything but still… I’m a little scared. Is she going to brand me with this poker stick? I mentally recall the story I read about the Chinese man who had so much cupping his back was infected with a mass of black gangrenous holes. She lights the end of it and then lets it burn and smoulder slowly like a giant cigar. She spends the next thirty minutes wafting it over my hands, feet and stomach. Thankfully it doesn’t touch my skin but I think she really is literally cooking me now and I try desperately not to choke on the smoke which is filling the enclosed room. Later when I relay this to my Australian naturopath, she relieves my concerns by telling me this concept is actually called 'Moxibustion' and is even used in the Western world…..I Google it and discover it’s an ancient Chinese medicine therapy using moxa made from dried mugwort to among many other things, stimulate circulation through the pressure points and induce a smoother flow of blood and qi. Beads of sweat dripping down me ….clammy and sweaty….I close my eyes and try to relax. I hear the faint click of the doctor’s phone and can see him out of the corner of my eye at the back of the room. I suspiciously think he’s taking photos of the strange white woman on their bed. Finally in what feels like forever, it’s over. The heat lamps are off and the needles come out, painlessly. The doctor says something I don’t get and walks out, closing the door behind me. I’m not sure whether to stay lying there or it’s finished. In the end it’s clear no one is coming back, so I get up put my shoes on and walk out. They are both standing there, waiting for me, big smiles on their faces. I ask them if I need to come back and they point to what looks like a tub with a foot massager in the bottom and say “tomorrow?” I tell them not tomorrow, but maybe next week. My earlier suspicions are confirmed, when, as if it’s mandatory after every doctor’s appointment in China, the obligatory photo opportunity is presented. I try not to look visibly amused and smile politely. I'm glowing with a fine layer of sweat but of course! First with the male doctor then the female. “Piaoliang!” beautiful, he says.…..and then we exchange pleasantries and I remember I need to pay. They usher me downstairs to the man with English, but no English. It’s a grand total that is equivalent to $15 Australian dollars. Then they ask for my phone number which is kind of funny given they have no clue who I am. Any appointment in the West and they would have all of your details before you set foot in the door. After such an up close and personal visit I realise they don’t even know my name. "Wo jiao Nicole", I say and write it for them on the scrap piece of paper, they give me. We say "Zai jian" Goodbye.... and I tell them I’ll see them next week. No need to give them a time or appointment, I guess like today, I’ll just turn up. I tell them my friend will call them to see what they have to say about my 'condition'. Later she rings them and as suspected they tell her about my cold feet and hands and the tongue! Apparently they can see exactly what my problem is from these three things. I’ll need to go five times and tonight my sleep will be just fine, they say. I don’t know about that, but even though I smell like I’ve been roasting marsh mellows over a bonfire, I feel relaxed! This is China. … [Read more...]
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