"Kung Hei Fat Choi!" or as they say up north in China "Xin Nian Kuai Le!" Roughly translated, that's "Best wishes and congratulations. Have a prosperous and good year." 2013 was the Year of the Snake and the party started without me….after a month of Australian sunshine (make that heat waves, cyclones, tornadoes and flooding) I was headed back to a wintry Hong Kong, smack bang in the middle of what's unquestionably the 'big kahuna' on the Chinese calendar, Chinese New Year. Make no mistake though, I'd been under no illusions…CNY (for short) is coming! No sooner had Santa left the building, tinsel was unravelled from those perfectly-primped Christmas trees and in their place, lions, lanterns and Lai See emerged in all their red and gold glory. Anticipation littered the air for weeks as locals frantically prepared to farewell the Year of the Dragon and welcome the steely snake, slithering ever-closer to his moment in the sun. For the record, the snake doesn't have the same kudos as the dragon - dubbed the luckiest of the Chinese lunar years. If you're born a 'dragon' in China, it's safe to say you've hit the zodiac jackpot! A mythical legend, you'll walk through life the strongest, smartest and luckiest of all 12 animal signs. To give you an idea of the divine powers the Oriental Dragon wields, last year saw wedding planners literally run off their feet as the number of couples racing down the aisle sky rocketed and hospitals were inundated with mums who'd desperately timed those romantic rendezvous to ensure a much-coveted 'dragon' baby. 2013 and the soothsayers are out in force to warn of the perils of the slippery snake and his venomous bite. The word is, commitments and promises made will be sorely tested and romance will be put on the back burner as the agile and dangerous reptile weaves its way through 2013. The previous two "snake" years have seen the September 11 attacks in 2001 and the Tiananmen Square Massacre in China in 1989, making locals fearful of a rocky year ahead. Nonetheless, the snake can also promote ambition, wealth and power and Feng Shui experts are trying to encourage positive vibes for an harmonious year. If you're not familiar with Asia, about now, you might be thinking pffftt! what a load of poppy-cock! For non-believers and (grateful) expats it might be a chance to take a week long holiday, sit back and let the fun begin, but for locals it's much more than a few sleep-ins and respite from the daily grind. Firstly, there's a mad rush to get home…travelers literally cause gridlock as they scramble to be with family (if you live away and only come home once a year, this is the one occasion you make the trip). For many people it's the only holiday all year and so far over a billion people have hit the road to be with loved ones. Just as westerners like to ring in the New Year with parties and plenty of frivolity under the guise of starting anew - the same can be said for Chinese New Year but don't think you can get away with making a few half-hearted resolutions through the champagne bubbles (how is that New Year's fitness plan going by the way??) Nope if you're a CNY devotee it's serious stuff and it revolves around family, friends, food and a whole lot of highly essential Chinese customs. Mostly, it's about reconciling ….and that means forgetting all your grudges and wishing peace and happiness for everyone! Yes that's everyone! (So if you've been harbouring a sour taste in your mouth over that family feud, now's the time to swallow your pride and make amends.) This is a culture so sincere in its well-wishing, it takes saying Happy New Year to a whole new level! You really want to hope you stuck to your christmas budget because if you're around these parts over CNY you better have pockets full of money when you make your well-wishes. Red pockets that is. (I'm pretty sure in our first year in Hong Kong, we left ourselves a bit red-faced, unaccustomed to Chinese New Year etiquette.) They call them 'Lai See' in Hong Kong or "Hang Bao" in China….originally given to ward off evil spirits, these days they symbolize good luck and prosperity… and it's a sure bet tucked deep into everyone's winter jackets you'll find pockets overflowing with red envelopes. Banks are stretched to the limit as locals rush to get crisp new bank notes. (Crinkly old crushed-up notes simply will not do.) Basically, the lucky Lai See receivers are unmarried relatives and friends, employees and children! Everyone else step aside and be prepared to dish out the dollars. There's a "standard" token amount of a $20 dollar note in a red packet, but you can give as much as you like to those 'special' people. If you live in an apartment and most of us do, it's customary to give the doormen, concierge and so on Lai See. Married couples might be wise to give two packets to unmarried friends - giving just one I'm told signals your relationship is separating! (No wonder they looked at me strangely last year.) As a hotel manager my husband will shell out no less than $8000HK. (Guess now's not the time to bring up that new frock huh?!) Before you go galavanting with your red packets of lucky cash, tradition dictates things at home must be spic and span. It's critical to clear out the cobwebs before CNY begins if you want good luck and harmony to come your way. Yep! time to roll up your sleeves ladies and gentleman and get down and dirty with the dust-buster. (Take note: whatever you do, refrain from sweeping once CNY is underway…..this could very well sweep all the good luck right out the front door!) Many homes and most businesses see CNY as the time to bring in a Feng Shui master to ensure the year starts off on the right footing. He'll advise whether offices should be changed, walls painted, chairs moved...all to "improve the air." It's all about the flow of energy. If you've had an influx of resignations and too many employees calling in sick, maybe it's time to re-think your office space! All sharp knives must be put away (not in case you're feeling a little unstable) rather in case they cut through potential luck coming into the house. It might also be a good idea to invest in some small 'orange trees' for the pad. They represent wealth and prosperity. It's one of those 'the word sounds like' situations. In Chinese 'oranges' sounds the same as the word for 'gold' and also for 'lucky.' You get my drift? If you've racked up any debts, no ifs or buts, now's the time to repay them. Heading into the new year with a clean slate is paramount to future success. It will also hopefully mean you've got enough cash for the all important new year makeover. It's not just your house that needs to be in ship-shape, you'll reap the rewards for sprucing yourself up from top to toe. What better opportunity to purchase a brand spanking new suit or ladies some sexy stilettos for the first day of CNY and it's all in the name of maintaining the sanctity of an ancient tradition (now that's a shopping spree to remember)! Red underwear are also deemed part of the 'lucky' outfit. If you need a haircut, don't wait for the holiday to head down to the local barber for a snip. It's got to be done before the New Year Festival begins. Why? According to Chinese mythology, the word 'fat' in the New Year greeting 'Kung Hei Fat Choi' sounds the same as the word 'hair'….(here we go again) and because having a lot of hair is seen as a statement of wealth, if you take the scissors to it, you're effectively cutting your money loose. In fact, some people don't even wash their hair at all over CNY for fear of bringing bad luck upon themselves. (You wouldn't want to let any of it slip away down the plug-hole would you)! If you don't like the cut, try not to shed any tears on New Year's Day either, this can mean you'll cry for the rest of the year. Also on the to do list, five days before New Year, many households like to offer a sacrifice to the Kitchen God by putting sweet, sticky food, like sticky rice or lotus seed in front of his picture. He looks over families and apparently reports to 'Jade the Emperor' on who's been naughty or nice (a bit like Santa really). It's hoped the offering of sweet food will encourage him to give a "sweet" report to the emperor and also stick his mouth together so he can't tell anyone about the questionable deeds he's witnessed. On the eve of Chinese New Year, supper is a family feast and fire works at midnight mark the beginning of the new year. It's believed the noise of the fireworks will drive away any evil spirits. Early the next morning, children wish their parents a healthy and happy new year - in return they receive Lai See. (Hello Toyworld!) At midnight on the first day of Chinese New Year, locals head to their local temple to place an incense stick. This I'm told brings luck for the entire year, so probably not one to miss. Then there are the zestfully colorful community events taking place around the city, most notably the ubiquitous 'Lion dance'…… It started thousands of years ago to scare away evil spirits. Two people perform at the head and the tail synchronizing their moves to music from a drum, gong and cymbal. The Lion has a mirror on his head to frighten away evil spirits with their own reflections. As the courageous lion runs along the streets visiting different places, as odd as it may sound he looks for green vegetables like lettuce, hung above the doors of houses or businesses. Hidden in the leaves is, you guessed it, Lai See. The lion must eat the lettuce and red packet and scatter the leaves to symbolize a fresh start for the new year and the spreading of good luck. Even better, should a family member or the owner of a business stick his or her head into the lions’s mouth, the year to come will even be more lucky and prosperous. Get dunking! The Festival of Lanterns on the first full moon of the New Year marks the end of the festivities (usually on the 15th day). A 500 year old tradition, it celebrates the return of light, the coming of spring and the beginning of the growing season. So is it all superstition gone mad, rituals gone wrong? Perhaps to some of us unfamiliar with these customs it can seem like a whole lot of mumbo jumbo, but to those who stem from generations of Chinese families it's all about honoring and respecting their ancestors. Things may be changing in China but taking pride in ancient traditions that have seen a culture of people live harmoniously and peacefully for thousands of years is still one thing that remains the same. So from me to you, Kung Hei Fat Choi! … [Read more...]
Like a bull in a China shop….
My latest piece as Columnist for Expat Focus If you have a tendency to feel a little on the claustrophobic side, there's every chance you'll find the pulsating energy of Hong Kong suffocating (initially). In fact, even if you don't mind being in a tight squeeze, you're bound to find it a little intense if, like me, you weren't brought up in the 'crush' that is ASIA. Declared one of the most densely populated cities in the world, there are on average 25,900 people, squashed like sardines, into each and every square kilometer. In some areas, there are 92,000 people per square kilometer (phew)! Yep, it's what you might call over-crowded! To read more click here: … [Read more...]
Not Made in China….
So I've noticed there's a steady rumbling going on amongst the masses here in Hongkers and every now and then it threatens to erupt into a mighty roar! The dilemma? Hong Kong, for all intents and purposes, belongs to China. Nothing new there you might say -- the metropolis famous for its designer goods and delectable Dim Sum has been a part of the 'motherland' for more than a decade. But it seems the years have done nothing to ease the frustration with these ties which continue to be a bone of contention for Hong Kong natives. I learned early on in my expat adventure, whatever you do… don't call a Hong Kong person 'Chinese.' (Locals are probably not all that keen on me describing their slick, sophisticated city as 'Hongkers' either, but I promise it's all in jest - a colloquial, friendly term for a city I've come to call home.) My local friends tell me they're quite okay with 'Hong Kong-Chinese' but the upshot is, the vast majority of Hong Kong people are reluctant to be lumped in with China, Mainland China that is. You may remember in 1997 the 'hand-over' took place - Hong Kong was essentially reunited with China after 156 years of British rule. With this transfer of power came the promise Hong Kong would keep its western-style freedoms not seen in Mainland China and remain a semi-autonomous state - an SAR (Special Administrative Region). One country, two systems. All sounds pretty good in theory… but 15 years on, that simmering bubble of animosity is reaching bursting point - the relationship between Hong Kong and China skating on thin ice. It seems Hong Kong and Beijing have very different ideas of what being 'part of China' means. New Year's Day, 2013, saw tens of thousands of demonstrators take to Hong Kong streets to protest against the city's leader Leung Chun-ying - elected in July by what many say was a largely pro-Beijing committee. Locals are calling for the Chief Executive to step down amid allegations of corruption and are demanding full democracy for Hong Kong. Around 95 percent of the city's population is ethnically Chinese but Hong Kong is indisputably a place where East meets West. Elements of traditional Chinese culture have long been savoured and mixed with British western influences to shape the energetic city that stands tall before us today. Everything from the law to politics, finance, education, language and food... to the very way of thinking make Hong Kong a unique pocket of culture - something its people are fiercely proud of. Chinese folklore and traditional festivals still reign supreme and everything from lucky numbers to the 12 animals of the zodiac, Feng Shui and Yin and Yang are an inherent part of the community. Don't be fooled into thinking it's all just a bit of hocus-pocus… take the number four for instance - it's considered unlucky because of its similarity to the word 'death' and let me tell you, most buildings do not have a 4th floor or feature the number 4 in their numbering at all. (Just quietly I was a little bit irked to hear this, given both mine and my husband's birthdays fall on the 4th (shame on us) but faith in my lucky number has been restored after reading it was the most auspicious day for weddings on the Chinese calendar this year. Hear! Hear!) And as sure as night becomes day…when it comes to cuisine, Chinese food is as critical to Hong Kong as chopsticks are to eat it. See my previous post: A date with destiny. So where's the love lost in this Chinese love affair? We've all seen or experienced first-hand, friendly rivalry between two countries living in close proximity to each other with cultural similarities. I'm thinking Australia/New Zealand, Canada/America, England/Wales (just don't call one the other or you could feel a swift boot up the backside right)? But this feud goes far deeper than sibling rivalry. Many Hong Kong people say Mainland Chinese are unsophisticated, brash, rude and pushy, on the flip-side Mainlanders say Hong Kongese can be snobby, disrespectful to the motherland, suffer from a superiority complex…and are hostile. In a recent move to abate the locals so-called hostility towards the Mainland, Hong Kong's leader put a stop to Chinese mothers giving birth in Hong Kong. When I was pregnant with Ava in 2011, there was a lot of jostling for a place at the hospital, locals feared they wouldn't get a spot and would be turned away at the last minute. Word on the street was Mainland Chinese were crossing the border and taking valued hospital beds. It wasn't too far from the truth, more than 35,000 woman from the mainland gave birth in Hong Kong that year. Why? Possibly because children born in Hong Kong automatically receive local residency status along with free education for 12 years, medical care at minimal cost and visa-free travel to many foreign countries, as well as the promise of an escape route should times get tough in China. While I completely understand the frustration from locals here, you can hardly blame desperate 'mothers to be' for giving it a go can you. For some it's also a chance to side-step China's one-child policy by having their second child 'offshore.' Adding salt to the wound, there have been more howls of protest over proposed curriculums for local schools amid fears of Communist Party brainwashing. To promote greater awareness and identification with the 'Motherland,' China planned to introduce mandatory courses on 'moral and national education' including lessons on Chinese government bodies and the correct etiquette for raising the national flag. The Chinese government says there's nothing controversial about teaching Hong Kong students to appreciate and love the motherland, but it sparked a flurry of criticism during public consultations and has since been revised and delayed. Last weekend I took a 90 minute train ride to Guangzhou, China (where many Hong Kongese originally hail from) the third biggest city behind Beijing and Shanghai. (Just for the record, coming from Hong Kong you still need a visa and pass through customs on arrival and departure.) On the surface it looks pretty much like any other modern city you might visit. State of the art skyscrapers light up the night sky, tree-lined streets are flanked by brand name shops like McDonalds and Starbucks; well known hotels like the Four Seasons, Westin and the Hyatt dot the inner city and taxis buzz around picking up and dropping off people from all walks of life (perhaps in a slightly more hairy fashion). As with Hong Kong, Cantonese is the main language and Dim Sum is naturally top of the menu. But underneath the modern-day exterior, you sense there's a difference. English is limited in both conversation, signage and literature and 'life' is highly regulated. There's no Facebook, no Google or Twitter, no blogging and what you read in the local newspaper is closely monitored by the government. In fact as I write this, hundreds of free-speech protesters have clashed with Communist party supporters in Guangzhou over government censorship. But politics and 'freedom of press' aside, the most common complaint from Hong Kongers is that mainland people "don't understand our culture." Sure, Mainland Chinese push a little more, spit and slurp a little more and don't like to line up, but what is often forgotten is the lack of western civilization most Chinese have experienced in their country. On their turf this behaviour is considered completely normal. You can read more about this here: Chinese Tourist Behaving Badly. More drama prevailed late last year…it all started on the MTR (local train system) a Hong Kong man told a mainland mother, who's child was eating dried noodles and dropped some on the floor, that eating wasn’t allowed on the train. Other Mainland Chinese sitting nearby mocked the Hong Kong man's less-than-perfect Mandarin. He retorted that this was Hong Kong, they should be speaking the language here - Cantonese. A verbal feud broke out and police came in. It made newspapers and television news around the globe and went viral on social network sites. 28 million tourists from the mainland flocked to Hong Kong last year to spend up large. It's fair to say, in recent years, wealthy mainland Chinese have become a welcome lifeline for Hong Kong’s struggling economy, filling hotel rooms and emptying designer stores (their shopping sprees make up one-third of retail sales). Locals say they're depriving them of goods and services - buying up real estate and inflating prices. Even milk formula has at times become scarce in supermarkets. After the 2008 tainted-milk scandal in China, Mainland Chinese crossed the border to stock up on imported formula, stripping shelves and leaving local parents fuming. There is more broad-based anger about the billions of Hong Kong taxpayers' dollars being spent on high-speed rail links and huge bridges to China without any public consultation. Gordon Mathews from the Chinese University of Hong Kong says the greatest fear Hong Kong people have is Hong Kong becoming just one more city in China. "It is the fear of 7 million against 1.3 billion people; it is the fear that Hong Kong will no longer belong to Hong Kongers. It is the fear of colonisation by the mainland." Lets hope this identity crisis isn't a case of 'lost identity' for Hong Kong but rather a 'mid-life' crisis...a renaissance if you like - an opportunity to reconcile yet reclaim that independent spirit that makes this city so deserving of its title - Asia's world city! As China continues to build bridges connecting the motherland to its child, may she remember this great quote from author C. JoyBell C. “I think that the best thing we can do for our children is to allow them to do things for themselves, allow them to be strong, allow them to experience life on their own terms, allow them to take the subway...let them be better people, let them believe more in themselves.” … [Read more...]
Living the dream….Expat Life
My latest piece as a columnist for Expat Focus Sawadika! Checking in from the land of smiley, happy faces…. One of the undeniably pleasant perks of being an expat in Asia, coupled with having a husband in hotels, is the opportunity to fly to idyllic destinations like Phuket in just a few short hours and revel in 5-star luxury. I get it… I'm lucky! Very! I will even go so far as to use the word 'spoilt,' as I sit here trying (in a lazy, half-hearted kind of way) to wrestle my sleepy gaze from our villa's private plunge pool that is beckoning me to immerse myself in its crystal clear oasis. Yep!… livin' the dream! To read more....click here and go to Expat Focus … [Read more...]
Deck the halls…..
In a culture where the 'big guy in red' doesn't rank so highly on the list of legendary figures, it'd be remiss of me not to point out that Hong Kong is well and truly lit-up like a proverbial Christmas tree on steroids. I'm not just talking about a bit of scruffy tinsel wrapped half-heartedly around a street light or a few baubles dangling precariously inside a shopping centre, no no, this my friends is seriously decking the halls! Still a relative youngster in traditional Christmas terms, 'tis the season to be jolly' is something locals have really only embraced (with all their glitter-loving glory) in the last few decades. Given just ten per cent of Hong Kong's population is Christian, it's easy to see why Christmas hasn't long been on the festive radar. … [Read more...]