What's the first question you ask Google madly, when you find out you're moving to another country? For me, "Do they speak my language?" is up there with the best of them! And what's the one question I get asked by friends and acquaintances who now know I've moved overseas and immersed myself in the Orient? How much Chinese can I speak? Oh yes, that old chestnut; the expat's nemesis! My answer usually involves my eyes quickly averting (shamefully) to the ground. I hear myself stammering,"umm, errrr not much I'm afraid - ok just taxi lingo - you know, Jik Hui, Lee Doe, N'goi (Go straight/Stop here, Thank you)!" Then I mutter something about not really needing to and how you can get by 'perfectly fine' in Hong Kong, without Chinese. Thank you very much! Repeat, Perfectly. Fine. Which is absolutely true! You can. (Tip: Head further north to the Mainland and you've got buckley's!) But, oh how there are those days, when I'd LOVE to know how to speak a little more of the native language rather than screeching at my seemingly impervious taxi driver, "Stop here!" (Sometimes with added expletives.) It seems the longer you live here, the LESS you try to learn and the less, it seems, you care! Expats are such a Laissez Faire bunch aren't they! When I first arrived in the frenzied financial hub of the East, I remember being mildly shocked that some friends had been living amongst the delectable Dim Sum and dazzling dancing dragons of Hong Kong for almost five years and yet knew little more Chinese than I did. Huh? But how can that be, I pondered into my Jasmine tea (embracing my new oriental environment with a naive enthusiasm). I frantically Googled where to learn Cantonese and then wondered if I should learn Mandarin instead? Or both! I won't survive here, without learning Chinese, I shuddered. But all and sundry put me off…. Understandably, there's a gentle whiff of 'negative attitude' wafting through the expat air when it comes to embracing the native lingo. "You'll never be able to learn it unless you're forced to speak it," they implored. "You don't need it." "It's REALLY difficult." "Did you know there are tones. Four in Mandarin and NINE for Cantonese. Impossible!" And, "Have you seen those Chinese characters? Talk about complex." (FYI there are around 80,000 characters and to get through a Chinese newspaper, you need to know about 3000! Woaahhh..) Copyright: simlik / 123RF Stock Photo One-fifth of the world's population, speak some form of Chinese as their first language. Cantonese is primarily spoken in Hong Kong, but Mandarin (or Putonghua) is spoken on a more global level. In those early days not speaking the local language mattered to me. Sitting in a hair salon not being able to communicate exactly how I wanted my hair (first world problems) or ask the hairdresser where he lives (no I wasn't trying to stalk him, though he is cute). Getting my nails done while the 'girls' bantered in Chinese all around me (probably about the Gweilo and her insatiable demands) was frustrating! Catching a taxi, heading in the wrong direction, unable to tell the driver where I wanted to go was often torturous! The very idea of catching a cab with a new baby, alone, would have me sweating pools of water for days in advance! While, many, many Hong Kongese speak English and speak it exceptionally well, for a lot of locals, it's limited to basic conversation level. If you want to get any deeper, you'll go round and round in circles and usually end up smiling politely, both parties none the wiser for your efforts. I've given up trying to explain to my ever so lovely hairdresser, "I'd like a less 'gold' slightly more 'ash' tone through my hair and if you could just blow dry it without so much of the 'Bold and the Beautiful' volume, that'd be bonza mate!" Our conversation is mostly limited to "Hi and how are you?" (Big toothy smiles.) "Are you busy?" With the odd (throw caution to the wind) chat about going on holidays (and more often than not, in the end realizing we are talking about two completely different places! What it's Yantian not Vietnam! Oh). As for the taxis, I now know enough about the geography to gesture madly or simply get out and walk…. and I know there are places to catch taxis and places to avoid! As for the constant stream of Chinese conversations going on around me… these days as a more often than not brain dead sleep-deprived mother, I've come to appreciate it as a great opportunity to, quite frankly, tune out. Thankfully, interpreting those incomprehensible characters is generally not required with most signs in Hong Kong in both English and Chinese, making for an incredibly easy city to navigate, sans the native language. But…(there is always a but) whilst I'd long given up hope of learning anything remotely oriental to dazzle you with, my 3.5 year old daughter - who is now in nursery class at school - has two teachers, one who is solely mandarin speaking! She's started coming home spouting off words, phrases and songs, supposedly in Chinese. Well, to be honest, it was that or gibberish and telling the difference for me, was nigh impossible! In fact, out to dinner one night, a friend pointed out to me, "You know she's counting to ten in Mandarin?" "Say what!!?" At the parent-teacher interview (yes they do those for three year olds here) the Mandarin teacher was trying to explain Ava's progress IN Mandarin. Shoot! And so…it began. The Gods heard and clearly realized an intervention on my Chinglish was required. I ironically had some inquiries about collaborating on this very site with some local language schools and before I knew it, I was logging-in 'online' for my first ever lesson in Mandarin. I know, I'm just as baffled. SO…my original thoughts were to put myself through the paces, mainly in the name of #blog research (naturally with my curiosity levels piqued at just how hard it would be). I'd do a few lessons in a few different formats to gauge the best learning tools and environments out there and regale you all with the best options for YOU. Honestly, I was a little anxious about the online classes, very skeptical about how well it could actually work. I didn't even really 'get' how it could. Some sort of course you loosely navigate your way through between bouts of lazy procrastination? With Beijing Mandarin it was a case of being sent an email to join the class about ten minutes before. Being technically challenged I wasn't sure how I'd get myself in to the class (it's amazing what happens when you follow the instructions). Voila! I was in and there LIVE (just like Skype) was the sweet smiling Michelle - ready for action! We jumped straight into the Wo Shi Nicole and Ni Hao Ma?…. I thought it would be awkward, stilted and difficult to understand. Michelle had headphones on and suggested I get some too but reassuringly I've found it perfectly clear and easy to understand, without. (Don't want to ruin the hair-do, do we!) The classes are 45 minutes and I'll admit, they are intense. After my first one, my head was threatening to spin off my stiff and strained neck, in fact I needed a stiff drink! I don't think my brain had worked that hard since French in high school (no wait, French was my best subject, this was more like economics)! But I was also elated. By the end of it I could say, "Hello, How are you? I'm very good thank you." The basic greetings and name all of my family members. (Even you Poppy!) Of course, I'm not going to be able to sit down and rattle away, fluently in Chinese about the ins and outs of the current political climate; like any language I imagine, unless you are immersing yourself in the middle of said country, it's not going to be a sure thing …. but baby steps, are currently walking the talk. I've even practiced Chinese with my girl AND mysteries have been unravelled! I finally realized the song she sings constantly around the house is the Chinese version of her end of the day "goodbye" song. Huzzah! Progress! High fives all round sister! Mind you, she did get a little over excited at practicing with mummy and started peppering her Wo Hen Hao's with "mintmochamusings dot com!" (Have I really brainwashed her to say that!?) But in all seriousness, it's a win win - hopefully it helps refresh the little bits she's learning at school in her mind too. I even found myself chiming in smugly, saying "good bye" in Mandarin to the teacher! Check me out, sista!! (Struts out of the classroom!) I also went to a group lesson. Ok, so definitely not feeling as smug out in the big wide world!! Live it China is an umbrella platform for all sorts of Chinese learning opportunities. They embrace many schools, including Beijing Mandarin and another called Celebrity Mandarin (you know how much I love a Hollywood theme) which is where I ended up one Thursday evening in downtown Central - oh yes, in the midst of a Mandarin Challenge!! (I registered the words "for the super ambitious" and clearly got a little carried away, imagining myself at this superior level!) Oh yes! They were beginners alright, but with quite a few more lessons tucked neatly under their celebrity belts, than I. We were talking tones, the time and full on 'round the table' fast and furious conversations. Did somebody say, "I'll have a round of cocktails please!" There is the small but persistent issue in Chinese of one word having many meanings, depending on the tone. They say it helps if you are musical. Unfortunately musical ability and I are about as compatible as chocolate and fruit. I was so obviously in another league, but with a clever and fantastically patient teacher and two capable and easy going class mates we battled through and I let my head inhale as much of the Chinese mother tongue as I could. I emerged totally overwhelmed, but the adrenalin was pumping! This challenge is three months of intensive 'one on one' lessons, group lessons and weekend catch ups with language partners. If you need to learn Chinese and learn it fast, this is the place for you! They are fun, friendly and first rate. As much as I'd like it to be the place for me, sadly at the moment, it's not….BUT with six lessons under my belt plus this liberating group lesson, I've realized it's not quite as daunting as I'd always anticipated. It's also (surprise surprise) rather enjoyable! The best part is there are a limited number of sounds in Chinese. To give you an example, there are around 1200 syllables, where as in English there are over 8000! Chinese grammar also appears pretty straightforward. (Yep! You read that right.) Plus there's an amazing little thing called the Pinyin which converts the word into a phonetic spelling! Winning!! So guess what? I have decided to continue with my lessons, albeit at a slightly slower, more measured pace, for now. (In future, I may hook up with a Language Partner to help with the progression and if I'm game, go back to a group lesson or three.) Whatever stage you're at, it's possible. Dare I say it, I am feeling empowered! (Just call me powerful Chinese dragon woman!) Stay tuned….I promise to keep you "posted" in all senses of the word (and characters...and tones).... Pssst....if you see me on the street, promise you won't start conversing in Chinese. ;) If you're interested in stepping off the plank and learning Chinese with me, here are a few great places to start. LIVE IT CHINA http://www.liveitchina.com/ BEIJING MANDARIN http://www.beijingmandarin.com/ CELEBRITY MANDARIN http://www.celebritymandarin.com/ FLUENT U … [Read more...]
Red Taxis, Chopsticks And Chinglish: 10 things that make me a happy Gweilo…
Latest column for Expat Focus... I know eventually there will come a time when I am (through no fault of my own) forced to (with a very heavy heart) pack up my chopsticks (just kidding I don't really own a pair), put away my Octopus card and leave those clean, clean (did I mention clean) toilets behind for less superior greener pastures. With the notion that relocation comes to all hotelier's wives at some point on my mind (no matter how long you try to hide the passports) I started thinking about what I would really miss most about Hong Kong life. No. Really miss!!What is it about this melting pot of cultures, customs and far too many swanky restaurants serving up tiny cakes for High Tea to count, that will leave me wanting, yearning, heart broken for possibly years (decades) to come?Albeit slightly tongue in cheek (with just a teensy hint of the truth) here's my list! Brace yourself! Click here to read more over at Expat Focus..... … [Read more...]
Fashionably Faux Pas: Where are the Asian faces?
For me, it was a headline that was hard to ignore. "A young Korean woman goes to extreme lengths to transform herself into Australian super model, Miranda Kerr!" We're not just talking about a simple change of hair colour here, or even purchasing some baby blue coloured contacts (which for the record, she did). No! This was much more that that. It was going under the knife! A nose job and eye surgery. Now, it's clearly no secret, there are plenty of people who indulge (over-indulge if you like) in cosmetic surgery all the time to 'look' a certain way. Mostly, it's in the hope you'll look like a younger, new improved version of YOU, not so much a different version. And of course just quietly, who wouldn't like to look like the ever-stunning, jaw-droppingly gorgeous super model from DownUnder - Miranda Kerr! When it comes to good genes, there's no doubt she's got the x-factor - but for most of us poor cousins, we're faced with the reality that, (sigh) looking like Miranda Kerr is about as achievable as having Channing Tatum for to dinner! So, we get on with attempting to straighten our unruly locks, rub in that collagen firming cream with a little extra gusto and pull up the Spanx! But this story was about a young Asian girl changing her looks to resemble someone of a completely different nationality, an Australian with a very different genetic make up. It's not the first time I've noticed the word de-orientalise bandied about in the news of late. Men and women in Asia are undergoing surgery at a rapid rate to make their eyes bigger and noses more pointy to take on a more 'westernised' look. In South Korea it's being called the 'K-Pop plastic surgery obsession.' To keep up with their rich and famous idols, young people are getting V-line surgery (which involves (shriek) breaking and shaving the jawline) which is often (gasp) a gap year gift - from parents! Even Miss South Korea (2012) has confessed to going under the knife. In China, spending on cosmetic surgery is now coming in fourth behind houses, cars and travel and it seems the most popular surgery asia-wide is the double eyelid procedure to make eyes appear larger. As a westerner in awe of the Asian beauty I see paraded before me on a daily basis here in the Kong and beyond, it's a little perplexing. But I get it, you always want what you can't have. It's certainly nothing new and in every culture, there are those who go to great lengths to achieve a certain look (that often defies what nature intended). And just for the record, I am sure that a lot of ethnic Asians choose to go under the knife for a lot of reasons other than trying to look more westernized. Nonetheless, Asian countries have long histories of utilizing white skin as a key criteria for beauty. In Korea, flawless, freckle-free white skin has been preferred since the first dynasty, while in China, milk-white skin has long been held up as a symbol of beauty. Don't get me started on the plethora of whitening creams lining many a cosmetic shop in Hong Kong! So much so, this sun-loving Gweilo can't find a tanning cream within a 100 kilometre radius! (FYI, if you're new to the blog, 'Gweilo' is a slang term (I like to think of it as affectionate) for foreigners in Hong Kong. It means ghost!) ;) First world problems aside. What really worries me though, and mainly for those more impressionable, younger members of society, is the obvious over-exposure to western faces on advertising billboards, namely for fashion labels and cosmetic brands. You see, my local shopping centre is overflowing with 'Gweilo' faces peering out from exquisite boutique fronts with their sultry smiles, piercing blue eyes and wavy blonde locks, shop after shop, after shop! With a heavy colonial influence, Hong Kong is no doubt a melting pot of cultures, but the predominant look on the street is Asian. Where we live is not exactly considered 'local' but on most days, the number of blondes pacing the mall with a mini blonde in tow is limited. More often than not, it's just me myself and I… the lone Gweilo traipsing the mall clutching a Mint Mocha and an H & M bag (and the occasional small person)! And even I - the 'brown-eyed'-blonde feel a little cheated looking at these glossy images of blue-eyed beauties on display so prominently before me! Is this the standard we are all aspiring to? I'm aware this superabundance of westernised advertising may well be the location of 'Elements Shopping Mall.' A potential hub for mainland Chinese crossing the border, its retail nirvanas target the extremely wealthy who crave the big brand-names and the way of life they represent. 'Central' though, Hong Kong's heartland, I'm afraid to say is not that much different. Nicole Kidman (as much as I love a fellow aussie girl in town) looms down at me with a knowing look, showcasing her flashy Omega watch; Gap, who is credited with being on the more culturally diverse side is still missing an asian face on this supposedly multicultural billboard. And when she is on show, she's sporting blonde (platinum blonde) hair, as is the Shanghai Tang Asian model. Don't get me wrong - there are Asian faces to be seen in this city. The MTR is plastered with pictures of locals doing their thing, but for the most part it's for 'things' that don't involve beauty or fashion. Ironically, a lot of the ads are for cosmetic surgery! And as a Hong Kong cosmetic doctor pointed out to me, in the more local areas of Hong Kong, it's still not Chinese images that are being featured but rather those East Asian faces of South Korea and Japan. So, I've often wondered how women of Asian appearance feel about this over representation of caucasian faces beaming out at them from every open space available to savvy marketers. Is it culturally insensitive? Or is it something they're just used to/have come to expect/or for that matter, want to see? How would I feel if the roles were reversed? I'm not sure I would care so much, but I suspect it may subconsciously encourage me to look towards a different ideal of beauty. I know just living here amongst the many Asian faces, I often find myself coveting their (generally) thick and shiny straight hair, full-lips, wrinkle-free faces and slim physiques. And I'm sure I'm not alone. I put the question to Hong Kong locals and interestingly got a mixed response…. many had never thought about it, others had but weren't bothered by what they see as typically western brands, naturally advertising with western models. Would a Chinese brand use a white face, they asked? Probably not. But to me, the difference is these aren't small, western brands, they are major 'global' brands. And truth be known, their goods are probably made in Chinese factories. The world's largest cosmetics company is L'Oreal and China is it's 3rd largest market. The company even has a Research and Innovation Centre in Shanghai with manufacturing centres in Suzhou and Yichang, where it produces most of its mass and professional brands. Isn't there a duty of care to showcase every type of nationality and perhaps cater a little more to a country's people that advertisers are pitching to? To quote 90's runway model Veronica Webb “When you see someone that looks like you, it makes women feel beautiful, and it makes women feel they belong.” The irony of it is - most of the western models gracing the front of fashion houses in Hong Kong wouldn't even fit into the clothes these shops have in stock. From my own personal experience, cosmetic counters are often guilty of not selling the right colours for a Gweilo girl's skin (despite the shop front being emblazoned with America's all time California girl). With most Asian countries boasting their own national movie stars and pop stars to revere (Katy Perry who?) you have to question why campaigners aren't cashing in on Asia's famous faces. Do they know something we don't? While, I've been told Asian stars probably wouldn't consider modeling as the face of a product, I would also hazard a guess that there's a 'method in their madness' approach by marketing gurus of the big fashion labels and cosmetic houses. They aren't just ignorantly placing western brands with western faces across the far East for fun, with a "we can't be bothered shooting ads for individual countries!" attitude. It's a sure bet there is some hardcore planning and politics by some heavy duty masterminds behind these strategies. An article in Women's ENews had this to say a few years ago about the subject. "I think it's a conscious effort that they are featuring Caucasian models," Royce Yuen, chair of both the Ogilvy Group in Hong Kong and of Hong Kong's Association of Accredited Advertising Agencies, said. Caucasian models, he said, are used to sell everything from real estate to cheap clothing. The advertisers are not doing it because they "might as well" use the same ad in Hong Kong as elsewhere, Yuen said. They do it because "it gives people the impression that they're more international and premium brands." While mainland China is not known for embracing western ideals, it's widely acknowledged that western countries produce and consume higher quality consumer products and as China becomes a more affluent nation, it's tastes for luxury western products are in hot demand. You can read more about the Chinese consumer's penchant for big name brands here in my earlier post Design of the Times. With over half a billion women in China and Asian women today living in the fastest growing consumer market in the world -- more cashed up than ever before -- clearly today's ad campaigns are working! They're popular and sell the products in question…. But does that make it OK to use women and men - who's face and body type is generally not attainable (for sheer genetic and race reasons) to advertise to the masses? Some argue western media has effectively set a new standard of beauty in Asia. Does it discourage people to appreciate beauty in its many forms? Or is the equation much more simple than that? As a Price and Murray study in 2009 pointed it out "it's anticipated that female Asian consumers would be less potentially intimidated by attractive western models as they draw less direct comparisons due to the models being less similar, therefore resulting in more positive attitudes and purchase intentions." Today Asian faces are definitely being utilised more and more by luxury brands - I'm just struggling to see much evidence of it here! As one Fashion Designer put it, "In order to sell to Asians, you have to put your merchandise on white models." Fashion Faux Pas? Or should this concerned Gweilo just mind her own business and as they say, 'Let Sleeping Dogs Lie.' Perhaps this quote by Francis Bacon sums it up? The best part of beauty is that which no picture can express. What do you think? … [Read more...]
Singapore: Slick, Sophisticated and Sassy – but does it lack Soul?
As a certified 'virgin visitor' to Singapore, I had no preconceived ideas about the so-called 'Lion City' (aside from the rather titillating fact that 'Singapore Slings' would no doubt be a feature on the local cocktail menu)! Given Singapore lies within the heart of Asia and 75 per cent of its population is Chinese, admittedly I expected it would possess a touch of the orient (naturally infused with the west, given its colonial roots) so I was a little taken aback when my first encounter with the island had me immersed in a bubble of extreme 'westernisation' (at least at face value anyway). (I am also sure this perspective is clearly shaped by my frenetic four years spent amongst a culture of chopsticks, chicken feet and years of playing charades with non-english speaking taxi drivers in the mighty metropolis of Hong Kong!) After a four hour (slightly chaotic short-haul toddler tortured) flight south west of the Fragrant Harbour - I could almost fool myself into thinking I'd landed under the great 'blazing' southern sky DownUnder. (Yes! That's Australia!) I'm told 30 years ago, stepping onto the tarmac in Singapore I would have been met with a vastly different and definitely more oriental feel. Obviously the country's modern-day aesthetics play a huge part in this initial face to face meeting, but it had me reflecting back to my first rendezvous with Hong Kong almost four years ago. I realised just how foreign the 'Fragrant Harbour' really can be to an outsider from the West, with its eye opening and omnipresent Chinese influence... and of course how naturally ingrained it is in my psyche today (I think they call that acclimatization)! ;) Stepping out of a very English feeling Changi Airport - perhaps that's what threw me at first….the fact that all of the signs were in plain English only. Ignorantly, being in Asia, I had expected that much like its counterparts, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Manila, Vietnam and Taiwan, there would be a second, native language on display. A little research and I find out that more than 20 languages are still spoken in Singapore. (Malay, Chinese, Tamil Indian and English are the four official languages.) From there it was into a reasonably modern taxi (not so common in previous Asian cities I've encountered) where we cruised ever so calmly along a wide, spacious freeway (at a pace that wasn't verging on something out of 'Mad Max' - again a rarity in most chaotic Asian streets I've had the pleasure of 'cruising'). Leafy green trees boldly lined streets, in some places over-hanging the road resembling a lush tropical rain forest. Skies were bright, fresh powder blue with those puffy, cotton wool clouds that seem to sit ever so still above you. We emerged into a heat that was bordering on unbearable until a slight breeze wafted through for that perfect summery feel, but mostly it was bordering on oppressively hot! (I'm used to Hong Kong's intense humidity by now, but here…it felt like a double whammy - the harsh sunlight of Australia coupled with Hong Kong's summer sauna-like heat.) Reaching our hotel in the city - shiny, sleek high rises were the order of the day…. but unlike Hong Kong, these weren't the skyscrapers I've become akin to (butted together like dominoes straddling the city for an eternity). Nothing much stood higher than 50 odd floors, which to me, means a relatively mellow 'low rise' city. (I know! Like I said, my immersion in the skyscraper capital has given me a unique perspective on the definition of a bona fide "busy city!") What it was though, was 'futuristic' in style. Perhaps a little Dubai-esque? Buildings that were designed with more than practicality in mind, these babies were impressive works of art, sleek structures that defied the modern day oblong of ordinariness and made for impressive observation. The Westin Hotel still in its infancy at six months old was the epitome of suave sophistication. With a view out to Marina Bay, I was immediately conflicted by the scene. The colors before me had me in Sydney looking out across the harbour, while the seemingly infinite number of containers stacked on top of each other, flanked by untold container ships in the background had me back in Kowloon. In the spirit of delivering a few facts, the port is the world's busiest port in terms of shipping tonnage handled! Whenever I take these short trips I always feel spoilt for choice and utterly torn between being the intrepid adventurer wanting to explore a new city and the relaxed tourist wanting to do as little as possible (somebody bring me a cocktail ploise!) So with my travelling heart in two minds…we tried as best we could to do a bit of both, with limited time at our disposal (not to mention a very unpredictable small person in tow)! Day One: We did the obvious things expected of any tourist in the Lion City.(For the record, the term 'Lion City' is derived from the Malay word Singapura but it's thought lions never actually lived on the island, and the beast that founded and named Singapore, was indeed a tiger.) Go figure! Wild cats aside, our first stop - the MRT to the famous Orchard Road (NB: Just like Hong Kong, the train system is a dream) don't ask me why, but I expected to (rather naively) find an oriental stretch laid out before me, revealing old Singapore in all its glory, but instead, what I got was quite the opposite. Beautiful? Yes! Quaint? No! With its green foliage painting a picturesque scene along the stretch, before me was a modern day shopper's paradise (which I am, by no means, complaining about!) revealing a glossy portfolio of shops all in one easy, accessible spot!! With a scorching heat that threatened to turn us into crisps in a matter of minutes, we wandered in and out of the air-conditioned havens eyeing up the goods. (Well, I did anyway)…and naturally this sweaty stroll called for an ice-block pit stop! Like Hong Kong's summer, you can't stay out for long or you'll melt into the pavement. Later that night we made our way to Marina Bay Sands. If Victoria Beckham was strutting her stuff in this super slick spot (actually the world's most expensive building) then you can bet I was going to get in on the action too! (Thanks for the heads-up Instagram!) Arriving, we were met with another massive shiny shopping centre (also more glamorously known as 'The Shoppes') again filled with a plethora of dreamy designer goods on display, really not at all unlike Hong Kong's label-crazy retail nirvana, not to mention Macau-like casinos, a luxury hotel and giant convention centre. The atmosphere was buzzing inside, and little did we know outside as well! Disappointed to find the famous Marina Bay Sands roof-top 'vanishing edge' pool was only open to hotel guests, (sorry VB, next time we can swap fashion tips over a Singapore Sling) we ate inside in one of the French bistros with cosmos and burgers (how can you go wrong?) before wandering outside and discovering what was nothing short of a giant Darling Harbour. Hello Sydney! Bustling with buskers, night owls and a plethora of al fresco dining establishments, it was entertaining and a little bit electric. OK so by now I was starting to get what Singapore was about. Clean, sophisticated and oh so shiny… but the journo/blogger in me was craving a bit of Singapore's underbelly. With a few places on the agenda, we had to choose between Chinatown and it's famous Food Street, Arab Quarter and Little India. We figured as cool as Chinatown may be, coming from Hong Kong, we can see hawkers selling fish balls and waving-cat souvenirs anytime….so after um-ing and ahh-ing and a bit of inside knowledge, we ended up in Little India. I've yet to have the pleasure of visiting India, so perhaps this was a little taste? Originally a former settlement for Tamil convicts, its location along the Serangoon River originally made it an attractive spot for raising cattle and trading in livestock. Today, it's heaving with local Tamils and Little India, also known as Tekka, is clearly the place to gather for Saturday shopping,socialising and much eating! Horns rang out, bicycle bells were chiming and crossing the road was clearly a case of "in Little India, do as in Big India"- i.e. walk out in front of fast oncoming cars with a mere flick of the wrist to let them know to stop. Not something I was game to attempt! A vibrant and chaotic mix of shops and stalls selling cheap and cheerful Indian jewels, trinkets, textiles and homewares fringed the streets; Bollywood music was blasting out of old fashioned record stores; and flower vendors, spices and hawkers were selling authentic Indian food hide down side streets and alleyways. Let's just say, even as a 'Gweilo' - often more conspicuous than I'd care for in HK, this place was a little intimidating for us 'whiteys' who stood out like sore thumbs amongst the masses lingering in the streets. Undeterred though, we made like locals and squeezed single file down narrow footpaths, observing and photographing the mildly overwhelming scene. We ended up inside 24 hour retail hub Mustafa! I reckon you could just about find anything you wanted in here! Shelves upon shelves overflowing with pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, clothes and electronics. The mind was well and truly boggled! The intense heat adding to the authentic 'Indian' experience, but eventually bringing our adventure to a raging halt. Safe to say I'd had the adventure side of me satisfied, and like all good tourists, we hightailed it in an air conditioned cab to Sentosa! Hello paradise! An island literally a stone's throw from the city - once you cross through the tolls, you are in another world. A little island paradise. A British Military Fortress in World War Two, today it's tagged 'Asia's Favourite Playground' and there's definitely no shortage of attractions, including Universal Studios, the world's biggest aquarium, stunning beaches, bars, restaurants and several hotels! As we drove through, I felt like I'd left the big smoke of Sydney and headed north to Queensland's Gold Coast…namely Sanctuary Cove (complete with ride-on buggies)! Rolling out of the heat and into the W, had me at hello. The familiar quirky, funky and fun atmosphere taking me back to Hong Kong and as the W Hotelier's wife, our home away from home. This though was an idyllic resort and that meant we got to sit back, relax and rejuvenate. Heaven! Sipping my first Singapore Sling was nothing less than sublime to say the least! But it was definitely a case of so little time, so much to see! So, have you been to Singapore? What were your first impressions? Great holiday spot but am I a delirious expat who's spent far too long in China to see this city for what it really is? Shoot me a comment…. I'd love to hear your thoughts. PS… Thanks to being a part of the passionate and friendly blogging-world along with the vibrant and helpful Twitter community, I was met with some amazingly helpful Singapore residents online. If you're heading to Singapore anytime soon and want a more detailed (dare I say it 'expert' opinion) on the island city….check out the following blogs Expat Kiwi: Singapore and Beyond, A British Girl in Bangkok (and Singas) and My Life in Sin Cheers! … [Read more...]
Chinese Tourists Behaving Badly
Why the world's biggest globetrotters are getting a bad rap! If you've been living under a rock lately, you may be forgiven for failing to notice there's a new breed of jet-setter in town. This unfamiliar travelling species hails from China - the not so unfamiliar territory that can lay claim to host of the world's largest population (so large in fact, I'm struggling to read the ten digit figure in front of me). Let's just keep it simple and say this giant of the East is home to "well over" a billion people and counting. Given that little fact, you won't be surprised to hear, the Chinese in all their colossal glory have seized the crown as the biggest travellers on the planet! What is quite remarkable though - is - at this point in time only five per cent of the mammoth population actually holds a passport! Suffice to say, nearly one in ten travellers today, are Chinese. And that, right there, is posing quite a problem for much of the rest of the world. As China's inhabitants explore the globe at a frantic pace (Chanel handbags slung over their inquisitive shoulders), they're just as quickly cementing their reputation as being rude, loud and extremely uncouth! Media outlets increasingly bear headlines protesting the brash, crass and recalcitrant Chinese tourist for vocally and often vulgarly making their mark on the planet! Several decades ago, the Americans were haunted by similar taunts. Called the "Ugly Americans," as their passports garnered more stamps, their reputation for being obnoxious and offensive was firmly imprinted on the map. But now it seems the Chinese have unwittingly highjacked the title from their US competitors. Just last month the city of Chiang Mai in northern Thailand was up in arms after being inundated by scores of Chinese visitors displaying behavior that locals have labelled disturbing and rude. Countless tourists took over Chiang Mai University, sneaking into classes and causing chaos in a bid to follow in the footsteps of the 2012 movie "Lost in Thailand" which was filmed on the campus and the highest grossing movie ever released in China. The tourists were blamed for spitting, littering and flouting traffic laws in the normally peaceful Thai city. But, what the Chinese visitors lack in sophistication, they certainly make up for in dollars. In 2013, Chinese tourists spent $129-billion; and with the number of Chinese tourists set to DOUBLE by 2020, make no mistake everybody's scrambling for a piece of the action. China is currently Australia's fastest growing and most valuable inbound market. To cater for this new wave of tourists - flights are being increased around the world and direct routes to China's top cities added into the system. Visa restrictions are being lifted - (according to the Economist, in 2013, Chinese citizens could visit just 44 other countries without prearranged visas, while Taiwanese could visit over 130, Americans and British over 170). Retailers are busy making sure they are set-up to accept China's currency and main credit card, Union Pay; and luxury hotels are employing Mandarin speaking staff and making it standard practice to offer 'congee' for breakfast, instant noodles, slippers and a kettle for making tea in rooms. A friend of mine sensing the urgency for translation services for travellers both inbound and outbound from China, has created a service 'Understood, Be Understood' providing a 24/7 hotline for tourists in need of an interpreter. These newly minted millionaires are throwing off years of isolation from the rest of the world and desperately craving a slice of the West! Cashed up and eager to see the world, they like it no less than luxurious! It's all about the big brand names, designer labels, VIP events and authentic experiences. There's even a name for them - 'Tuhao' - these cashed-up travellers are known to have a taste for anything expensive or gaudy. If you want to read more about the Chinese love affair with brands click on my post Design of the Times here. The popular perception is that Chinese often travel in large tour groups and are renowned for being pushy, jumping queues and ignoring rules. On flights, they jump up before the plane has even landed and seatbelt signs are off. They don't wait to be seated in restaurants and frequently like to sleep in hotel lobbies…. and when they're not sleeping, they're conspicuous with their raucous talking at earsplitting levels. Berated for letting their children urinate and defecate in public swimming pools; they often toss their cigarettes butts on the floor, spit in public and slurp their food…and in general manners that are deemed socially acceptable in the West, elude them. The unruly behaviour isn't lost on the Chinese government, who whilst encouraging travel with 70 new airports to be built next year, has also put out a "guide book" for nationals travelling overseas. It advises locals on things like not forgetting to flush the toilet after use, don't leave footprints on the toilet seat or pick their noses and sneeze in public! So who are these new tourists and why are they behaving badly? A sociology professor at Beijing University, Xia Xueluan says, China still hasn't caught up with its own development - taking place at breakneck speed. Rising from a third world country to extreme prosperity at such an accelerated pace means "a lot of its people behave in ways that seem ridiculous to others," he says. In a bid to move the country from one based on rural exports to one in demand for its products, urbanization is occurring at a steady rate with the government's sweeping plan to move 250 million rural residents into newly constructed towns and cities over the next dozen years. In the late 1970s, fewer than 18% of its citizens lived in cities; today - for millions it's a new world in the city, with new money at their fingertips. A weekend trip to the third tier city of Wuhan in central China last year was a classic example. With a burgeoning population of ten million, the city was under a cloud of construction, but despite the emerging skyscrapers and glossy designer stores, it was clearly evident this was a city where many of its inhabitants were out of place. For more on this have a look at the post I wrote, 'Do All Roads Lead to China' here. For the most part, the average person in China has never had any experience with the western world. A Communist country living in seclusion from the rest of the globe means - in the past - Chinese nationals haven't been exposed to English movies or watched American TV programs…. and until recently China wasn't on the map as a popular tourist destination. A foreign face was for all intents and purposes a rare and exotic occurrence. Even now, mainland Chinese travelling south to Hong Kong (just over the border) often appear shocked and intrigued by my blonde hair or Ava's blue eyes and pale skin. They scurry over frantically trying to take photos, touching and grab at us, without given any thought to asking permission or invading our personal space. The middle aged or older tourists in particular - by and large deprived of education during China's politically tumultuous times - are more prone to this extraordinary behaviour. Many are simply unfamiliar with the countries they are visiting -- their basic knowledge of its culture, outdated. Younger generations of Chinese are savvier - independent and affluent - but even with the revolution of the online world, social media platforms like Facebook and Twitter are still banned in China and many western websites outlawed, meaning exposure remains somewhat limited. There's also a general consensus by the western world that the rule of law in China is at best as hazy as the air in China itself. The excuse bandied about is 'they can't know any better' -- but some are growing weary of this ongoing defense for rebellious conduct away from home turf. In Hong Kong, 41 million Mainland Chinese visited last year and residents are reaching the end of their tether. The animosity between the two has been simmering for some time and the friendship is about to reach boiling point. (For background info on the China/Hong Kong relationship click here.) Just recently, a Chinese visitor (apparently unable to find a toilet) let her child urinate (into a nappy) on a busy, public street in Mong Kok and has been vilified in the media ever since, doing nothing to stem the growing tide of anger. Sensing it's the last straw, the city's Commerce Secretary has urged Hong Kongers to help educate mainlanders in good manners rather than pointing accusatory fingers at them. But is ignorance a justifiable excuse for a continual poor code of conduct abroad? Is it time Chinese travellers started pulling their finger out and earning respect on the world stage? Or, do we need to cut this culture of people who've really only been travelling since 1997 some slack? Is it too much to expect the same standard of etiquette the world over....in a world where things are anything but universal? Would you know how to behave in their country? Do you know it's rude to blow your nose at the table or stick your chopsticks in your rice in China? Either way, it's time to reach some middle ground. With the world as their playground, the Chinese globetrotter is here to stay… … [Read more...]
- « Previous Page
- 1
- …
- 16
- 17
- 18
- 19
- 20
- …
- 28
- Next Page »