“How do you access things like Facebook and your blog in China?” It’s one of the more common questions I get asked since moving here. And I might add, it’s a very good question! Sometimes I wonder myself! Well, it’s all thanks to a little help from a friend, called VPN. Now for someone 'technically challenged' like myself, admittedly in the past I’ve (purposely) stayed in the dark about things that happen in cyberspace. Let’s just say, it may as well be a parallel universe and never the twain shall meet! But coming to China where there is a great deal more control on what you can easily access, has forced me to open my eyes and focus on learning about those little things that can make my daily life a lot less chaotic in a foreign country. (As if it wasn’t bad enough having limited access to chocolate in China, not to mention those gazillion other things you can’t get here; having no internet or access to the things online that make your world go round can send you, quite literally, around the twist.) In fact, in all honesty, it is a wonder this laptop I’m using is still in tact, for there have been many moments of utter frustration where I’ve almost hurled it over my balcony. (Yes! That explains why the U key is missing!) If you’re not really up with the ‘censorship’ situation in China, let me give you a brief backgrounder. China's internet control system is considered more extensive and more advanced than in any other country in the world. Government authorities not only block website content but are also known to monitor the internet access of individuals. (I’m told there is actually a department within the local police bureau here, to specifically monitor internet use.) It is taken VERY seriously. Amnesty International claims that China "has the largest recorded number of imprisoned journalists and cyber-dissidents in the world." You may wonder why? Basically, the Communist Party of China wants to protect the nation’s values and political ideals from any outside influence. There are many other reasons and they go far deeper than this simplified sentence, but for obvious reasons, I will let you delve a little deeper of your own accord. For people like me, just your average expat in China, things I’ve previously taken for granted like using search engine Google (almost every waking moment) is blocked; although China has its own local search engine, Baidu, it’s in Chinese and when translated into English is not exactly ‘easy reading,’ and search results aren't always fruitful. Facebook, Twitter and YouTube are also blocked. In their place is social media platform ‘We Chat’ which is, for all intents and purposes, a great combination of Facebook, Twitter and What’s App combined. While it’s good for keeping in touch with new friends I meet in China and for keeping me up to date on the latest events in this sprawling nation; if I want to connect to the majority of my friends and family on Facebook or access my blog that helps me make a living…..along with Twitter and Instagram for that matter -- I need to call in the assistance of my good friend, the VPN. (Who I am VERY grateful for!) So what’s a VPN? VPN stands for Virtual Private Network. Essentially, it’s a way to take your public network, private. What you view online is private to you, even when you are using a public network like your internet provider or a Wi-Fi connection. In layman’s terms, every device on the internet has an IP address, which is a unique address, kind of like your home address. Just as your address gives away the country you’re in, so does your IP address. A VPN in effect allows the user to ‘trick’ websites on your whereabouts - connecting you through a server the VPN provider has set up in a specific area. From there, the IP address is made private and the person can view the internet with no restrictions or filtering in place. For example, if my VPN is switched on (which is just a click of the icon on my computer or phone) it will list a number of countries I can choose from, with a top few that give the best results for my area. Whether it be Los Angeles, Hong Kong or Australia, my address is re-routed to these countries allowing me to access whatever I normally could if I were in these places. However, it’s worth noting, as the Great Firewall of China becomes increasingly sophisticated, many VPN’s are being blocked or becoming harder to use. A couple of months ago one of the most popular paid for VPN’s - Astrill - was blocked on all Apple iPhones for at least a month in China, just like that! VPN’s aren’t just used by expats in remote locations though. Thousands of global companies use them for security - to protect valuable information on their site. It’s also a great way to bolster your own security in this high-tech era, to ensure no one is snooping on your activity, especially if you’re online in a café or somewhere like an airport. Many people use them for shopping online, on sites normally restricted to particular countries or watching programs/movies that can’t be accessed in their part of the world, like Netflix’s broad host of programs in America that may not be available in the UK or Australia. And let's be honest, what expat can live without Netflix!! (Mind you, Netflix is cracking down on people using other means to access country's programs they're not in, so it's harder to watch with a VPN. I currently need two connected at once!) Maybe you just want to watch something live as it happens like the Olympics instead of waiting for the network in your country to broadcast it? Are VPNs legal? To the best of my knowledge, using a VPN is perfectly legal so long as you’re not using to for illegal activity that causes harm to others. So, how exactly do you choose a VPN? There are now over 100 VPN services available, so it’s quite difficult to find the one that suits you. And let me just say, not all VPNs are created equal. For me it was largely a case of word of mouth and reaching out to foreigners living in China and those friends who’re technical experts! I also looked at the online site, BestVPNServicemag.com – they’ve done a lot of the leg work and even have a Top Ten VPN comparison list which was extremely useful for a non tech-head like myself. And another list from PCMag.Com Here are my top tips when choosing a VPN. #Price varies, so be sure to do your homework. Some are free but not as reliable. Work out how much you're going to rely on a VPN. Is it negotiable or a necessity? Signing up for a year is usually cheaper than month by month. #Check the compatibility with your computer and mobile system; i.e some work better with iOS, others with Android. #Check how many operating systems you can use the VPN on. Some only allow you to use it on your laptop while others allow you five different networks: say on your house computer, two lap tops and two mobile phones. #If you’re an expat try to sign up before you arrive at your destination, just in case you can’t access their website. (This is particularly relevant to China.) #Check the powers that be aren’t cracking down on specific VPN’s before you sign up and realise they’re blocked in your country. #Make sure the servers have a variety of locations to choose from, especially if you’re planning to shop on specific sites or want to watch something from a certain country. #Just because you have a VPN there’s no guarantee your access will suddenly be super fast and reliable. It’s a remarkable tool but it’s not foolproof. If internet is patchy, chances are your VPN will be too. So, there you have it….. my new best friend in China…. The VPN. I prefer to call it a VPS - Virtual Protector of (my) Sanity. And breathe…… Psst, For the record, I'm currently using three VPNs - depending on who gives me the goods when I need them! Astrill, Express VPN and Hide My Ass. … [Read more...]
Why Every Expat Needs A Blind Date
My latest column for Expat Focus Those dam butterflies in my stomach… they're persistent buggers! I try to catch my breath, inhaling, deeply… as our car crawls slowly in and out of lanes, jammed with thick Saturday evening traffic. We are late. Naively forgetting about the headache of weekend traffic in China, we've severely underestimated how long it will take to get to our destination, normally a 20 minute drive across town. This was going to make it harder to arrive 'inconspicuously' let alone the nagging fact, the small, subtle bunch of flowers we'd ordered for the birthday girl was China-sized, China-decorated. This means big and garish. Even less opportunity to slide in, in low key style. I breathe. Realistically, you can go years without meeting new people. If you want to. Life gets busy and more often than not, it's all too easy to be content with friends in our 'hood, our work mates, family around the corner. More often than not, it's all you need to sustain a comfortable, easy lifestyle, isn't it? Sometimes, in all honesty, you just don't want the hassle of meeting new people. Who wants to put themselves out there. What? I have to reveal to someone that I'm actually a wine quaffing, cat-loving, former trashy magazine obsessive turned pinterest-nerd?! Sometimes you just can't find new people to meet… like anywhere. Even in the supermarket! (I've tried!) For the love of God, where were all those single men that year I was on the loose (back in the day)! They were actually so few and far between, I had to put myself completely out of my happy, controlled comfort zone to meet my husband. Yes! A blind date! But this is not about my personal life....it's about those Blind Dates we all take as expats or new kids on the block. To read more click over here to Expat Focus for the full column. Proud to share this post over at Seychelle's Mama on her monthly series My Expat Family … [Read more...]
Ever Wondered What an Ancient Chinese Village Looks Like? Of Course You Have…..
I've been trying to get out of the city for a sneak peek into a local Chinese village since we got here, seven months ago. There's nothing quite like getting up close and personal with the locals in a new country. I like to get amongst it and smell the noodles roses. Mind you, here in Xi'an, you need to pick a day when you're up for the paparazzi to well and truly 'pap you! If you're feeling like a quiet, inconspicuous day with the family, this is not the time or place to do it. Trust me. With two 'blondies' in the family, clearly we are not going to fly under the radar, no matter how hard we try. To many locals, we are fair dinkum aliens with our pale skin, light wavy hair and 'big' noses! (Who said that!) So with some inside advice up our sleeves, we were told there was a good village to see just outside the city. About an hour's drive they said. (Clearly not taking into account one of the biggest festivals of the year Tomb Sweeping Day.) Not to be dissuaded we got in the car with about 50-thousand other locals that day and made our way through the dense traffic to Ma Wei Yi village. As we sped along highways, slowed down through small towns and emerged in what looked to be the Chinese countryside, I had no idea what we were in for. (Our driver for the day spoke zero English, so he couldn't enlighten us too much.) "Are we there yet, are we there yet?" The small but shrill voice beside me, rang out. The gap between cars was getting closer and given the unusual rain in Xi'an, the roads were pretty muddy and sloshy….drivers were getting stuck, left right and centre! Just quietly, it was quite amusing to watch. As we know, in Xi'an getting a driver's license is not exactly a brain-taxing affair and with the greatest respect, the driving is a little on the chaotic side. I looked up in the distance and saw.....much to my surprise, a Ferris Wheel. Let's be clear, it was no London Eye. But yes a giant, random Ferris Wheel…perched at the top of the hill, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Possibly a sign that humanity is close by? Cars were queuing by now….and the sole dirt road appeared to lead directly to the top of the hill. We decided our best bet was to get out and walk. (After hastily scrambling around for the word 'walk' to communicate our intentions to the driver we jumped out gesturing to meet back at the same spot in a couple of hours). Wishing I'd bought my new gumboots, we trudged up the hill, through the mud with hundreds of others….and this is where the fun begins. People all around us were having a good look at the 'waiguo ren' (foreigners) …some were slyly running ahead of us to snap a not so sneaky picture. People boldly reaching out to give Ava's blonde locks a little tug. We passed little stalls with fairy wings, fancy balloons and whaddyaknow....fresh eggs. Once at the top, this. A Tudor-like entrance, Chinese style. Still not quite sure what to expect from this 'village'….we followed the mammoth crowds. A little closer and we came face to face with the 'village' - a carpet of old oriental rooftops, flanking a long narrow alley stretched out before us. We ventured down the steep stairway, trying not to get pushed by the crowds…. and entered the village vortex. A hive of heaving bodies, all meandering through the old cobble stone streets amid a wash of brightly coloured lanterns and flags. The scene was for all intents and purposes like stepping back in time...(with some modern day crowd surfing for good measure!) Tiny kitchens and food stalls selling authentic Chinese food, were at every turn. Some had long bench tables outside, all filled to capacity with hungry locals, fervently slurping noodles and sipping soup, like there was no tomorrow. This is not quite the village I was imagining, but it was definitely full of fascinating flavours and colours. Of course I draw the line at creatures like this on my plate! Tempted to 'people watch' for hours, if it wasn't quite so hazardous to stop and become the tourist attraction ourselves. Inside the little huts, ladies were weaving mats in traditional style and little pocket-sized museums were laden with ancient relics, even furniture. (Of course I'm not crafty at the best of times and to the elderly lady's dismay, broke the piece of cotton!) Out of the alley way and into a clearing….packed with more bodies roaming around on a sunny day …. there was the unmistakeable sound of a band on a stage…. Although perhaps not quite the bands we're used to. It sounded a little like a cat scratching a tin roof….a little closer and it wasn't not quite so bad…. the acoustics clearly lost on the ramshackle equipment. For your entertaining pleasure...I bring you this video! Then.....if that wasn't bizarre enough, amidst the high-pitched 'performance', ancient rooftops, red lanterns and ancient rituals - a random, brightly colored theme park! It was like stumbling across something from a long lost era. The rides a little on the vintage side. But of course my 4 year old's face lit up. This is far more exciting than being squashed like sardines in a long forgotten Chinese food fair . My senses assaulted with a seventies throwback - the scene like something out of an old American movie intertwined with a backdrop from 'Breaking Bad.' I later find out this is not in fact an ancient village but a work in progress. A tourist haven built with a purpose. (The half constructed traditional Chinese-style huts kind of gave it away.) 51.8 million yuan has been invested into recreating an ancient inn culture in the shape of Ma Wei Folk Culture Village. The idea is to give locals and tourists the feeling they're stepping back in time ....to a place people populated around a thousand years ago. And while I'm not sure the kitschy theme park compliments this idea, it will definitely give you a taste of a bygone era. I guess we'll save the real thing for another day. This is China. … [Read more...]
Forget Easter in China: It’s All About ‘Sweeping the Tomb!’
As a non-recovering chocoholic, I'll be frank, I am a tad disappointed the Easter Bunny does not visit China! That's not to say the Chinese Catholic Church and other Christian churches in Xi'an aren't acknowledging the religious significance of the occasion, but officially it's not a holiday, with the majority of Chinese recognizing the belief systems of Confucianism, Taoism or Buddhism. As for the glorified commercialisation of Easter, yes I'm talking about an abundance of eggs, namely the chocolate ones (ok and if you want to narrow it right down the 'creme' eggs in particular) well.. it's pretty low key, in Xi'an, to say the least! There are no tasty chocolate eggs, wrapped in-oh-so shiny, brightly-colored wrapping paper, beckoning you from behind every counter, lining shop front windows or overflowing supermarket shelves. Generally it's business as usual. No one is out scurrying through hedges on an easter egg hunt. Try not to feel sorry for me (although chocolate egg donations are most welcome)! Nonetheless, there is a celebration going on this Easter, right across Asia. And don't mind if I say, it's bigger than Ben Hur. It most definitely doesn't involve chocolate, but what it does involve is 'cold' food (of sorts), kites and well...dead people. It's called Tomb Sweeping Day or perhaps slightly more appealing, QingMing Festival, also known as Pure Brightness Festival, and it falls 107 days after the start of winter on the 4th or 5th of April, every year. This auspicious date is one of the 24 solar terms….yes I had to look it up too. Basically, it's the Chinese lunisolar calendar which has 24 periods which governed agriculture in ancient China and still do today. Have a look here for a more in-depth description before I completely confuse you and myself. Around this date, temperatures begin to rise and rainfall increases - making it a crucial time for farmers. In March, the trees start returning to their lush green and pretty flowers are in blossom everywhere. After a dark and cold winter, it's like Xi'an has been given a facelift! But as the name suggest it's not all about the weather and spring flings. It's predominantly a day to pay respect to the dead. Why? Well, legend has it...back in 770 BC a man named Jie Zitui was so loyal to his prince who was forced into exile, he literally cut a piece of meat from his own leg (yes, yes he did) to make soup, in order to save his hungry master. Apparently the prince was reinstated nineteen years later and rewarded those who stayed loyal to him over the years, but completely forgot about poor old Jie Zitui! Later reminded of Jie's loyal exploits, he felt so ashamed and decided to reward him. However, by this time, Jie had taken himself and his mother to hide up in the mountains. In order to find Jie, the prince ordered his servants to set fire around the mountain, to 'smoke' Jie out... unsurprisingly Jie was later found dead next to a willow tree. Filled with remorse, the prince ordered the day be forever known as 'Hanshi (Cold Food) Festival' - a day without fire which meant no cooking so only cold food could be eaten. It's been celebrated ever since and became a public holiday in mainland China in 2008. So, what does it involve? Basically, people go to clean the tombs of loved ones by pulling out the weeds and adding fresh soil. They also take the deceased loved one's favorite food and wine as an offering to them in the afterlife. (In Chinese culture, it is believed people still need to be provided for once they've passed.) Paper resembling 'spirit money' has long been burned as an offering to the deceased, along with paper clothes, cars and houses! In more recent times, tech-savvy youth are often giving replicas of iPhones, certain their ancestors would appreciate a far more modern gadget! (Perhaps not surprisingly this has led to a market for selling cheap replica iPhones and the like online, specifically for tomb sweeping day!) Just quietly, I think one might like a rest from technology in the afterlife?! At the grave, the family members take turns to kowtow three to nine times (depending on the families' ties to traditional values). This Kowtowing ritual in front of the grave is performed in the order of patriarchal seniority within the family. After, the whole family sits down to feast on the food and drink they brought for the worship either at the site or in nearby gardens. In China, it's also believed people with weak constitutions won't cope eating cold, raw food on Qingming, when the weather is still quite cold, so in the past various activities were invented for building strength in the lead up to QingMing; like Chinese football, polo, willow-planting, tug-of-war, and rooster-fighting! Today, with cremation fast taking over from burials in China, Sweeping the Tomb has been simplified in many cities. More often than not it's flowers presented to the dead relatives ....but no matter what, respect is shown and good prayers for the deceased must be expressed. Hence, there's also another modern trend emerging I know you'll love to hear about. Online stores are offering 'tomb sweeping packages!' Ah yes, too busy to mourn your loved one?…Hire a professional mourner to go in your place! (I kid you not!) (Want kowtowing and sobbing? Extra fees required!) ;) Flying kites is also part and parcel of the Qingming Festival and they come in all shapes and sizes, usually depicting animals or characters from the chinese opera. They're flown day and night often with little lanterns tied to them. Flying kites on this day is supposed to bring good luck because people cut the string while the kite's in the sky to let it fly free. Don't be alarmed if you see people wearing a 'willow twig' on their heads - it's a nod to Jie and customary to keep the ghosts away. So, while the meaning of Easter, chocolate eggs and the bunny have very little significance for most people in China, here the people are still very much steeped in their own traditions and long-held rituals. No disrespect, but I'd still prefer chocolate eggs over cold cuts. This is China. … [Read more...]
Six Months in China: What I Now Know!
High fives all round because it's not every day you get flung (some may say head first) into the middle of China with little more than your sense of (frazzled) humour! Did I mention I had one pair of boots and a solitary jumper and winter was approaching much faster than I (clearly) anticipated! Ok, maybe I mentioned this (a few times). Needless to say, I have survived a hardy north west winter that included minus temps most days and the occasional snow fall and I am here (with bells on) to tell the tale! With tongue (ever so slightly) in cheek, here are a few quirky facts that I've come to learn about life in this spectacularly unique place, that may just surprise you. # The entire country and all of its 656 cities are on one time zone. (Yep for an Aussie, that's a little bit too straightforward.) # Many Chinese today still use cash rather than cards and tend to keep their cash in their safe at home as opposed to the bank. # There is a "bureau" (government department) for almost everything, including an 'internet' department. # "Guanxi" is a very popular word. There are many things that cannot be done without "Guanxi" which means "relationship" which often translates into "money!" # You can have a second child in Xi'an IF you or your husband are an only child. # Xi'an is not far from the desert, hence the dust! Trucks spray the roads with water several times a day (to the tune of "It's a Small World" no less). # Chinese don't do small talk. Plain and simple! Forget about "how are you?" and "Isn't it cold today?" or "Have a nice day!" Most Chinese people are not interested in your cheery, meaningless observations…..just zip it, OK! # "Please" is not used much in the Chinese language and saying, "Thank you" too much implies you are not friends. (Good friends don't need to say thank you.) # Just 20 years ago, Xi'an was a very poor city with very little in the way of technology. There were no private cars on the roads. # Most Chinese in Xi'an today believe they have plenty of freedom, especially compared to the days of Chairman Mao, who's Communist Party governed until his death in 1976. # Driving on Xi'an's roads today is frenetic (and that's putting it politely). Despite this, there are very few accidents (oh, clearly I wrote this before the minor bingle we were involved in the other day.) I've reached the conclusion that Chinese people all drive terribly, well. # For a massive population of around 1.3 billion, there are surprisingly few surnames in use today. Statistics say there are around 4000 last names but the top ten are used by about 40 per cent of the population. (If you think about it, we all know someone with the surname Zhang, Huang, Wei, Wang and Wong don't we!) # The first 3 numbers of your phone number represent the phone company you're with. # Chinese very much respect the hierarchy in any situation, even if they don't agree. It's not easy for a Chinese person to reveal what they really think. # Sick babies in hospital will have an intravenous inserted in their forehead as opposed to other body parts. # On March 15th, every year, regardless of the temperature the government turns the heating off. It's not switched back on until November 15th. Yep! Six months in, just a few small, random but intriguing facts about the world's fastest growing nation. This is China. … [Read more...]
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