Eight years ago this month, I took a six week hiatus from my job as a news reader at Sky News Australia and went on (what I considered to be) the journey of a lifetime to volunteer at an orphanage in Kenya, Africa. I was at that stage in life (mid 30's, single) where I knew I had to grab hold of life and do something that would stay with me as one of those 'once in a lifetime' memories. You know the ones where you picture yourself old and grey, sitting on a verandah one day (preferably watching the sun set with a Sav Blanc) looking back at photos of 'that time' with a satisfied smile. Something that actually makes you feel like you have really lived! Do you ever get that feeling? Of course, no sooner had I planned this trip of a life time, I met the man of my lifetime, on a blind date. Funny how that happens, isn't it! Stepping onto African soil, it was the first time I'd been to a developing country and as you'd expect, my mind boggled....I was completely in awe. Of course, I'd like to think after six weeks in Kenya's clutches, I came away with a completely renewed perspective on life -- but in all honesty I don't think it was something that slapped me in the face there and then. I didn't feel I was instantly changed. Sure, I could appreciate with more empathy how tough life is for many in this world and often despite the challenges, they are (incredibly) met with a broad smile on one's face. I could, with my own eyes, really understand the diversity of this world, the unfairness of it all and yet, see the beauty in it. AND yep I definitely felt like I left a little piece of my heart in Africa. Looking back, I think the change was something that infiltrated me, seeping through my veins slowly but surely, over the coming years. It certainly gave me a taste for adventure; a thirst for something different. (Mind you I wanted to be in Hollywood at the age of 12, so perhaps that's just me)?! Three years later though (having sworn to my now husband, I would never live overseas (at.my.age!) I decided Hong Kong was a pretty good adventure to take and worthy of a break in the resume. Of course it was Hong Kong!! And being newly pregnant, I knew I wasn't going to get any sleep so why not move to the City that Never Sleeps?! Makes perfect sense, doesn't it? And of course being a first time mum gave me a bit more of an excuse (encouragement) to pull the pin on a decade long career, for a little while at least! I won't lie and say it was an easy decision to move overseas (this was more than a sabbatical - mind you that said, I was extremely lucky to have the option of returning to my old job a year later, if it all went haywire and we chose to go back home. So in my mind I let that easily justify my decision for a small career-break)! That was then! Five years later and well, clearly I must thrive on the idea of pushing myself right out of my comfort zone, because here I am on a slightly different journey with a slightly different career path, now in the middle of China! Of course, I've had many moments (and sometimes still do) where I've wondered what the hell were we thinking! But ...there is not a moment to be regretted. And hopefully it's proof - that your desire for something new, a break, an adventure in life, doesn't have to mean the end of your career. Maybe it's not your career as you know it, but a new, improved version! A reinvention perhaps? One of the biggest concerns people have leaving a job to travel the world, is the dreaded resume gap. And, rightly so! Obviously it's a valid fear, but many and varied surveys have found once you pluck up the courage to do it, it's not actually that big a deal (providing you are sensible and have the cash to support yourself). Although let's not forget there are many ways to travel the world and get paid! So, whether it's learning a new language, volunteering, teaching or doing what you love in a different culture, the benefits in theory, should far outweigh the pros. My old boss used to whole-heartedly encourage a sabbatical. "Definitely makes for better journalists!" he'd say. My husband upped stumps and travelled the world for a year and a half at 25, backpacking his way around the world! (Still a little jealous of that one!) In my twenties, I was always too busy trying to get my career on track, too scared to leave the country for fear I'd never get my dream job. Looking back, I don't think a year out would've changed a single thing. Even better, today, the sabbatical is becoming more and more accepted. You can still travel and keep your job! There are tonnes of websites dedicated to this very cause! I found a couple of good ones right here: and here. In today's often highly pressurised work environments, more companies are seeing the importance and value of employees having work-life balance. Ah yes... that old chestnut! And sometimes, regardless of your age or experience, we just get stuck! We hit a roadblock and need to ask ourselves: "So, what's next?" Taking a career break or just a break in general (who needs a 'career' to have fun) is often the key to motivation, new opportunities, more creativity, a fresh start! As well, comes a boost in confidence, greater tolerance, higher awareness....more experience...you know the drill! How much is your Facebook feed filled with those once in a life time adventures we see our friends taking? We 'like' all their pictures of grand canyons and castles, pretty lakes and beautiful beaches. We see them hiking through stunning scenery, tasting exotic foods...embracing new cultures -- all moments in time, captured. Sometimes admittedly, we're probably a little jealous when we're stuck in front of the computer, belting out our day's tasks, deadlines to meet.... but mostly we can literally feel their excitement leaping off the page, and smile along with them, knowing these are precious 'balcony' memories being made! And if you're lucky enough, it doesn't even have to be a resume gap, but a chance to stay in your current job, overseas. (Yes, they call them (pesky) expats!) Sometimes it gives you your proudest moments....and how can these not add substance to your resume? Whether it's one month or one year away from your daily grind to see/do something different, it's a chance to grow and gain priceless knowledge. My very own Linked In profile summarises my 20 year career, capitalising on my skills and experience...but I also note one of my proudest moments is navigating a foreign land with a baby in tow and starting this blog! If you've been thinking about it, perhaps you're on the cusp of lining up that adventure....I'm sharing this excerpt from an email I sent from Kenya back home to friends and family. (Read or skim at your own pace!) For me it tells the story of a girl (slightly naive, yes) viewing another side of the world with fresh eyes and a desire to help (not to mention a well deserved pause in the daily blow-dry routine)! In truth, as much as we were there to help....these kids definitely helped shape us in more ways than one. And that's what an adventure does, no matter how big or small. It's good for the soul! "Finally made it to an internet cafe! We have been in Africa for 13 days now! It feels like a lifetime!!! It is an amazing place; I'm not sure words can describe it! We are staying in the Kenyan countryside...so it's hillbilly time and I feel like I've stepped back in time.. to the 1940s! The countryside is beautiful, very different to what I expected. Very green, lots of lush, rolling hills...almost like the English countryside. The weather is crazy - much like the country! One day it is scorching hot, the next raining and the entire region turns into a mud bath! Most roads are rich red dirt!...(About now I am really wishing I brought boots with me...my sneakers will never be the same again!) :) We ended up staying with a host family as there isn't really any room at the orphanage and it is VERY basic and quite dirty!! In hindsight, it is just as well because we spend really long days at the children's home and get pretty feral and filthy!..so it's nice to have the luxury of coming home. Spoilt! The host home is quite palatial! NOT what we expected...but while it looks fantastic, it is very much back to the Colonial days! The power goes off quite frequently and often we have no water, so there have been quite a few days without a shower!?! The lady we are staying with is a widow named Mary and is an amazing, wise old Kenyan woman who keeps us very informed and makes sure we get lots to eat! Any ideas I had about coming back five kilos lighter have gone right out the window! We are eating really well...although it's very basic food and really healthy as it's all from the farm. So plenty of beans, corn, potatoes and fruit! (Can't wait for some cheese and biscuits and a glass of Sav Blanc!) Ha! The children's home is about 10 minutes away and we usually walk half an hour each day to catch a Matatu - which is their main form of transport...little mini busses which they pack to the rafters with people (literally). They are really smelly (especially when you are wedged under someone's arm pit) and drive like utter maniacs! Most try to rip us 'tourists' off but we've learned the tricks of the trade and are pretty firm with them now. If it's raining, we get driven in the back of a pick up truck to school and we always get picked up each night! Usually going a different route each way, just in case we are being watched. So back to the children's home...it is like a mini farm with a few cows, a field of corn and is really quite tranquil (if you can look past the poverty)! The kids are absolutely brilliant! So very talented and LOVE having visitors. (Most volunteers they've had in the past have been Italian so they are quite intrigued by us three Aussies!) We are starting to really connect with them now, it's a slow process as a lot of them don't speak English so well. They range from six to about 19 years old. It amazes me how they are all so ambitious and most want to be doctors, lawyers (even a news reader)! Secondary school is very expensive though and college is really out of the question for many. Ironically all of them are not orphans, strictly speaking - a lot of them have a family member alive but believe it or not they feel they would do better off in a home like this. We have been working really hard during the day trying to tidy things up for them and make their life a little easier. We pulled all their rundown, rather grotty old bunk beds outside earlier this week and cleaned them, sanded and painted them all - just to freshen things up for them. They are so thrilled. (So if you need any painting in the future, I think after 22 bunk beds, I'm your gal!!) ha ha! We plan to buy them some new sheets as most don't have any, let a lone a pillow. Tomorrow, we are taking them all on a picnic down to the river. Hence why we are in town today...and I'm on the internet. We are getting all the "party food" we've decided to make hotdogs, given they live on stodge - (their diet pretty much involves any combination of maize, beans, potato and cabbage, x 2 daily.) They also love fruit and never get it and there is plenty here....On that note, I have never peeled so many vegetables in my life!! (And all with a broken knife that has no handle!) Everything is so primitive, not to mention the cooking, which is done over fire in massive steel pots. They wash everything by hand with a bar of soap...including these steel pots. The kids do ALL the cleaning...as soon as they are home from school, they are non stop busy for about two hours, doing everything from hand washing and gardening to cooking dinner! The elders basically sit around and 'supervise.' We are trying to help them as much as we can, while we're here. We're also walking A LOT ....have been visiting local schools - taking uniforms, clothes, blankets, toothpaste etc for those who live with guardians but are sponsored by the orphanage. Yesterday we walked for miles in scorching heat with tonnes of bags!.....The kids totally freak out when they see us...most have never seen a white person, so come screaming and running at us. Then they are scared to touch us, but once they do, EVERYONE wants to shake your hand. In fact most adults in the region have never seen a "Muzungoo" (white person) so yell this out at us frequently....it's like being a monkey in a zoo! We end up having to greet everyone we see in the local tribal language "kikuyu." There are around 42 tribes in Kenya...which are basically split into regions....each has their own language...and Swahili is the national language and the children are all taught in English. So I have to say, I'm having an amazing experience. Each day there is something new to learn and see. The people really are friendly and I feel a lot safer than I thought. Having said that, EVERYONE you cross paths with asks you to buy them something, whether it be food, a bike to a new house!! They think we are filthy rich and I guess compared to them we are. You can't go out alone at night though of course..... The main town is only 15 minutes away...it is just like a little country town....but sooo rundown...the shops are very bizarre....I think a picture will have to illustrate that one!" What about you? Have you taken a career break? Did it change your life? Perhaps you've been thinking about doing it for ages? I hope I've inspired you! This is your chance to do something truly extraordinary! … [Read more...]
Will the Real China Please Stand Up!
Do you want to see the real China? You do? Ok, listen up. When you’re planning your itinerary, naturally you want to tick off the big kahunas - Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong…. maybe even Guangzhou or Shenzhen are on your sticky beak list. And you should. These cities are buzzing with all the trappings of the 21st Century! Reaching for the future with all the gusto of a dog digging for a bone; they are definitely not to be missed. But what about a peek into life further inside China’s colossal Middle Kingdom? A place, that for all its tall buildings, fast train lines and mammoth crowds still bears the elements of a bygone era? A city with 8-million people standing alone in the north west of China -- Xi’an, to this day remains relatively isolated from other major cities. And that is proving both good and bad (depending on how you look at it)! For the purposes of capturing a place in time, it’s perfect. Xi’an is a city that even today remains (largely) untouched by many outside influences. Sure, there are the usual western decadences in evidence, but it was only the early 2000’s when McDonalds first arrived in Xi'an; rewind a decade ago and there were just a couple of five star hotels, at best... and very little else in the way of global brands. That said, Xi’an is in the midst of an enormous growth spurt that will put her on track for a prosperous future; Ikea has just landed and a W Hotel is under construction! But despite this and brands like Starbucks popping up (literally) on every corner (and a few Sterbucske), by and large Xi’an has retained her country town 'China' feel…. It is a place where time stands still. (Only the myriad of cranes and high-rises tell you otherwise!) Just 20 years ago, Xi’an was a city without cars on the roads. Today, it's a different story...the city's roads are teeming with drivers weaving and honking to their heart's content! But they are still grappling for a place amongst the two wheelers! I’ve been to quite a few bigger cities in China this year and nowhere have I seen so many people on two (or three) wheels rolling along the streets. Not new, shiny, sleek state of the art pedalling machines either; most pushbikes are old, rusty and rattly, some barely hanging together. Motorbikes too. The ubiquitous cigarette dangling from many a driver's mouth; bikes piled high with everything from planks of wood, boxes of fruit & veges - to people (four huddled together on the bike, no problems)! Basically anything that can balance precariously on the back (or front) with just enough room to see the road in front is allowed. The scene only adding to the city’s provincial charm. The pace is slow…the frenzied urgency required of a big city still hasn’t penetrated into Xi’an’s psyche. Add to the enchantment, the fact that the city still retains much of its imperial architecture….and many new buildings (high rises aside) are being built with the very same oriental structures, and of course the omnipresent red lanterns that dangle from many a shop front - all making you actually feel like you are in the far East. There is still a ramshackle presence to many parts of China; and here in Xi’an there are as many manicured streets as there are bedraggled. Thick black scruffy power lines drape themselves recklessly through trees, while shabby shop fronts and market stalls are sandwiched tightly between new designer shopping centres. Delve just a few blocks from suburbia and you’ll find small rural like villages marching to a different beat. Tuk Tuks chugging in and out….stalls selling local fare and at the end of the street, a sky-high pile of trash - this is the local rubbish tip! While it seems that in a person's daily life here, things are tightly controlled, there is also a (fresh) air of freedom! No helmets, no seat belts, drive however, whenever….sleep wherever, whenever….squat wherever! Early in the morning, every open space is littered with bodies dancing in unison - sometimes it’s the elderly doing Tai Chi, other times it’s a bunch of young chefs or real estate agents getting the day started by knocking out some fast moves to Gangnam Style tunes. (And let’s not forget those random fire crackers I’m always harping on about.) Elderly people congregate in exercise parks, enthusiastically giving each machine a vigorous workout while chatting animatedly with their friends; Mahjong games are underway on street pavements and some people are already sleeping, their heads resting on whatever they can find. Unlike other many other larger Chinese cities, street food carts are still allowed prime position across town. Whether it’s outside one of the city's biggest tourist attractions, at the front of a shopping centre, next to KFC, or just on the side of the road to catch passers by for breakfast…these street food carts are a daily staple for locals. You don’t come to Xi’an for a fancy restaurant (apart from the Westin of course)! ;) For the most part, dining out involves traditional Chinese food. A local hole in the wall with spicy hotpot, bbq meat skewers, cold noodles, dumplings and steamed pancakes & burgers, Shaanxi style! The people of Xi’an are still governed strongly by tradition…whether it’s illness (break a bone you stay home for 100 days) doing business (nourishing relationships is crucial - often better served with some cold hard cash)….or family ties. Grandparents live with most families and take care of the children. Many parents live out of town, for work. There is a distinct lack of exposure to the outside world (remember there’s no Google and no media that isn’t condoned by the government)….and travel whilst booming (comparatively) is still limited. For a lot of older locals, the western face is still an enigma. Outside the hotel bubbles and some cafes, English is minimal and while for a foreigner living here, it can be about as difficult as climbing Mt Everest, it only reminds you, this is quintessential China. With an unrivalled history, Xi’an is more than just the breath-taking Terracotta Warriors…...enveloped by stunning mountains, Xi’an is peppered with ancient monuments and historical sights - from the ancient city wall, to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, the first Chinese Emperor’s tomb, the Muslim Quarter, museums, hot springs and lakes. There are just four first tier cities and around two dozen second tier cities and today more and more international airlines are launching flights into these 2nd tier Chinese cities; recognising that they also have a lot to offer the avid traveller. Much to my delight, Cathay now flies from most major cities with direct flights to Xi'an Steal a glimpse into a China that still holds on to a rare simplicity and innocence. (Note: This is not just a ploy to get you to come and visit me!) ;) This is (real) China! WHAT TO DO: 48 Hours in Xi’an WHAT TO PACK: Top 10 Things to Pack … [Read more...]
Visit Beijing: The World’s Super City in the Making!
Beijing doesn’t beep! Ok, so I'm assured they do! But given we arrived to a city in virtual lock down, it was a refreshing reprieve from the ‘ear-splitting,’ unrelenting honking that explodes from every corner of Xi’an. It still intrigues me, that every time we’re introduced to a new city in China (let’s not forget there are 656) they are each “jaw-droppingly” unique. Beijing was always at the top of the China bucket list. How could it not be….. the great political hub, the capital of the so-called ‘Motherland’ - a cultural cradle and the heart of the world’s fastest growing economy; not to mention, the centre piece of world-wide speculation and interest. By the way (trivial fact) did you know Beijing was also known as Peking? (A translation thing which saw it spelt differently over time!) (Ahhh so that’s why it’s famous for Peking Duck!) Of course, we arrived at a time when Beijing admittedly wasn’t her true self. She had important visitors in town from all over the globe, so had gone to great lengths to impress with a stunning makeover. Forget the ominous, thick haze of grey smog that more often than not drapes itself over the mighty metropolis; brilliantly clear blue skies decorated a peaceful, traffic-jam free city. Fiercely proud and patriotic locals, prepared for the grandest military parade the country had seen in a decade. (For more on that you can read this post here.) Nonetheless, gussied up or not, Beijing was always bound to be a compelling entity. Standing tall in the country’s far north, Beijing is the chalk to Shanghai’s southern cheese. Inhabiting a population of 21-million, just four million shy of her sister city, at face value, instead of the sleek, futuristic, flamboyant facade of Shanghai, Beijing exhibits an historical charm reminiscent of an ancient China that bears the hallmarks of a 3000 year old history. Not unlike a bigger version of her little sister, Xi’an - Beijing’s concrete jungle is punctuated with remnants of a bygone era. Temples, tombs, walls, gates and palaces all featuring the unmistakable mark of Imperial China. Home to seven UNESCO World Heritage sites, there are some exemplary places to tick off your sight-seeing list. Admittedly, we failed a few on our brief visit, given the timing of our trip. Mental note: city in lockdown for biggest parade in ten years has both advantages and disadvantages. (Not to mention numerous time wasting trips to the embassy to renew passports, which can't be done when you live in the middle of China!) Nonetheless a national holiday had its advantages - being able to actually see the majestic mountains that surround the city in the north and north west was one such perk. Little traffic on the roads meant getting around was relatively quick. So, a Google search will no doubt bring up the big must see sights. I've got a few here for you plus my tips. (Grab your pen and paper.) The Forbidden City Lying in the historical heart of Beijing, this is an enormous palace compound that was once home to the emperors of China’s Ming and Qing Dynasties. The Palace Museum itself holds imperial collections of Chinese art …and surrounding the Forbidden City are several imperial gardens, parks and scenic spots. You can easily spend all day wandering around here, if imperial art is your cup of tea, otherwise a quick wander through is probably sufficient. This was also the ceremonial and political centre of Chinese government for almost 500 years. Tip: Tourists can only enter from the South Gate. (Side Note: in addition to the Palace Museum, if you like looking at ancient relics and cultural milestones, there are a "gazillion" museums in Beijing!) Tiananmen Square This is also in the heart of Beijing just south of the Forbidden City. Here you’ll find the monuments to the heroes of the revolution, The Great Hall of the People (where the National People's Congress is held and also where state leaders hold diplomatic meetings), the National Museum of China, and the Chairman Mao Zedong Memorial Hall (with Mao's embalmed body, no less)! It’s one of the top five largest city squares in the world and is of course peppered with many moments of great cultural significance. Most notably (outside China) the protests of 1989, which China today doesn’t formally recognise. Tip: You can see this place within a relatively short time frame. Mostly it's about standing their and soaking up the history that has unravelled in such a poignant place in time. To the west of Tiananmen Square is Zhongnanhai, the headquarters of China's current Communist Party of China. Time permitting, you might want to take a peek. Summer Palace This is in the west of the city and was once the place for emperors of the Qing Imperial Family to escape to for a summer retreat. (I can just see them in their silk robes, gliding through the gardens, Pina Colada in hand.) Inside you’ll find a maze of gardens and temples that surround a lake filled with boats of all shapes and sizes chugging around. You could spend a whole day here, just ambling along, soaking up the sunshine. (If you can see it!) In 1998, UNESCO declared the Summer Palace "a masterpiece of Chinese landscape garden design." The design was based on a legend in Chinese mythology about three divine mountains in the East Sea, while the lake is actually based on the blueprint of Hangzhou’s West Lake. The minute we entered it was a case of deja vu. (Just quietly I think Hangzhou's lake is slightly more impressive.) Check it out here. The Great Wall There is a saying “One who fails to reach the Great Wall is not a true hero.” That said, If you do one thing in Beijing, it’s clearly a visit the Great Wall of China. Luckily for us, we managed to make the mandatory trek…..and what a breathtaking one it was. The world’s longest human made structure snakes across the historical northern borders of China from east to west, for almost 9000 kilometres. Standing on the steps (some half a metre high) looking at it weaving across the lush, rugged land it’s hard to comprehend it’s history and reach. Made largely of rammed earth and stone, it was originally built as several separate walls owned by separate empires to protect against raids and invasions, but was later joined together to be known collectively as the Great Wall. Today little of it remains but those parts that are standing have been rebuilt and maintained. In China they call it (長城, changcheng) Long Wall and there’s no denying it is an admirable part of China’s history and future. There are several points around Beijing from which you can visit the wall. We chose to go to Mutianyu, about a two and a half hour (steep and twisty) drive from the city centre. At Mutianyu you have the option of taking a cable car or ski type chair lift up. Of course, as panicked as the latter made me, it was an exhilarating ride. Coming down there is the unexpected option of a toboggan ride! Much to my relief disappointment, it started raining rendering the slippery slope unrideable! A white knuckle chair lift ride back down was our only option. Nonetheless up on the wall, it was truly spectacular and hard going. Note: Trekking this is not for the faint hearted. Wear sneakers! Legend has it, the Great Wall is visible from space, and even though this has been debunked many times, it’s still ingrained in popular culture. Tips: If you are with a driver, opt to eat at Subway. Sounds strange, I know! But this buys you a ticket to drive right up to the gates into the wall. Otherwise you are stuck down at the parking lot waiting for a shuttle bus up, which can be considerably lengthy. If you do have a driver/guide take you to the wall (which costs around 600-1000RMB) and you don’t want to make numerous stops along the way, be sure to make this clear or like us you’ll end up at money making ventures like the Jade shop wondering why you’re staring at giant Jade elephants with shop assistants a millimetre behind, just in case you make a random decision to take one home (which of course if that’s your thing, by all means do!) Hutongs Of course Beijing is not just about the mighty monuments. There are plenty of other things to see including roaming through the city’s dwindling number of Hutongs. These are the old style alley ways that have traditionally been formed by lines of ‘siheyuan’ - courtyard residences - which are sadly being replaced rapidly with modern day high-rises. Hutongs are usually straight and run east to west so the doorways face north and south for good Feng Shui! Laced with shops, restaurants and bars, you need to wander through these to get a feel for life in old China. Priceless. Beijing National Stadium (The Bird's Nest) To the north of the city centre is the antithesis to Beijing’s ancient monuments, the city’s contemporary answer to its architectural heritage. Today a tourist attraction it was built as the city’s National Stadium for the 2008 Olympic Games. The unique structure that looks like bird’s nest came from the design team studying Chinese ceramics! It's huge and covers an area of about 258 thousand square meters! Note: It also boasts the largest ski resort in urban Beijing! So, if you're up for some skiing..... You can also check out the National Aquatics Centre, affectionately known as the "Water Cube" next door! Sanlitun This is Beijing’s cool spot. A haven of quirky bars mixed with chic designer stores and hip eateries, Sanlitun is a haven for expats. Take an early evening wander, grab a coffee or cocktail and soak up the civilisation. Of course if you’re in Beijing it’s also mandatory to eat Peking Duck! Hot tip from a resident who highly recommends ‘Jing Zun’ on Chunxiu Lu in Sanlitun. The verdict: cheap and tasty! Beijing Zoo If the sight of another cultural relic is all too much for the kids, take them to Beijing Zoo… it’s the biggest in China and has pandas!! Chaoyang Theatre Acrobatic Show There’s also a pretty impressive acrobatics show. As one of the oldest performing arts practiced in China, the spectacular skills honed over centuries are on display in this entertaining show. The kids will love you for it and may let you visit one more museum. While English is definitely much more widely spoken than it is in, say Xi’an, it’s still rather limited. Knowing a few key phrases and having your hotel written in Chinese is invaluable. With 2000 new cars on the roads each day, traffic is subsequently jammed! They call it the "Capital of traffic jams!" (Except when there’s a great big public holiday in place and roads are closed!) Avoid peak hours. Pedalling is still a prime mode of transport (although I will say, there are many many more bikes on the roads in Xi’an - which is probably because Beijing thankfully has a pretty efficient subway and bus system.) You can buy a train ticket from any underground station machine (English available) for the inner city for around 5 yuan. If you take a taxi, don’t make the mistake we made and jump in a taxi without checking it’s legit. After a long, hot and rather sweaty stroll around the Summer Palace we were itching to get in a taxi and get home. We thought we’d hit the jackpot when we walked out and saw a taxi literally waiting for us. (Bad move!) Even though he mumbled something about VIPs and casually pointed to his 'special' badge (minus picture) dangling in the window, I paid no attention, just relieved the taxi didn’t smell and had seat belts! It was only when the metre rapidly shot up we knew something wasn’t quite right. He refused to drop us out the front of the hotel (no doubt because of security cameras) and tried to charge us three times the price. Scammed! Note: legal taxis all have 京B at the beginning of the number plate. Steer clear of the ‘black’ taxis with fake meters. Alternatively use Uber or hire a driver at a relatively cheap cost. Getting to Beijing is easy. Internationally most countries fly to the ancient capital; from within China you can fly or take a train to Beijing from most major cities. From Xi’an we got the bullet train. Cheaper, efficient, fast and a lot less hassle than a flight. Note: Children under 1.2 metres tall are free….but this means no seat! Not ideal on a long journey. Much to the ticket office’s perplexity we paid for the small (but extremely wriggly) person to have her own seat. Beijing for all intents and purposes is a city that packs a mean punch. In 2013 it had more Fortune 500 company headquarters than any other city in the world. In the next decade it is predicted it will be the largest economy in the world. It’s a bustling melting pot of the old versus new…locals say it’s a city on the verge of losing its authenticity, as it hurtles towards the future at full throttle - the great capital of a rising world power. There are ambitious plans in place to see Beijing become the world’s Super City - boasting a whopping population of 130 million! A mega city called Jing Jin Ji (wrapping together the cities of Beijing, Tianjin and Hebei) is already in the making! Currently, Beijing is one of the most visited cities in the world. If you’re up for the adventure, put it on the bucket list. This is China. … [Read more...]
Aliens welcome: I Survived a Year in China!
They call us aliens. Yes, it’s true. On our permanent work visa that allows us to live here as a pseudo Chinese for a year, it states very clearly “Alien!” For all intents and purposes, I often feel like I have indeed been plucked from my former life, whisked past Mars, Jupiter and Saturn and plonked down on another planet, far off in the galaxy. (Cue: mini 3-wheeler truck rolling past with a pink umbrella spouting from the engine.) 12 months in, here I am! I’m sitting here looking at that bloody Pagoda! All seven concrete tiers of the ridiculously ancient, mystical monument towers over me from every angle, a constant reminder, “You’re not in Kansas anymore, Toto!” It will always be symbolic of my time here in China…it’s the first thing I saw when I arrived and if I stand outside in the very same spot (it was raining like it is today) I can easily take myself back to that moment in time…. the pit in my stomach that felt like it was so heavy it might actually bring me to my knees. Where are we, what have we done? The smiles hiding the sheer angst bubbling under the surface….the tears ready to spill without warning. It’s an intense feeling of utter alienation from everything and everyone swirling around us in a fog of foreignness. The loneliness engulfs you like a thick blanket…..(oh wait, was that smog?!) I’d lived in Hong Kong for four years, but this was an acute (and surprising) case of culture shock. I thought I had prepared myself, well….but in hindsight nothing can prepare you for the onslaught of crotchless pants, earnest street spitting and footpaths that double as roads! I jest…but in reality, my inability to crack a smile for the first few weeks was a pretty poignant sign, I was in a place far flung from any my imagination had dared to go. I will never forget the day we drove through town, all sitting in the back seat, peering out the window as we wove in and out of bedlam traffic, speeding past a world of wild, unchartered territory. Amongst the mayhem, I saw a western-looking woman walking her toddler dressed in a princess costume….all I wanted to do was wind down my window and throw my business card through the crowds at her…shouting: "Hey, I’m here!" Sheer desperation for a fellow expat in a sea of foreign faces! 12 months in and hindsight is indeed a wonderful thing! I have found my expat tribe, all plonked on the planet of Xi’an from every corner of the earth (a regular sanity check); not to mention some fascinating locals, who’re teaching me a thing or two about the phenomenon that is China. I no longer notice the intense staring at the “Laowai” with the blonde hair and strange facial features, who towers above most locals. (Yes, that’s me, I am officially tall at five feet 3.) My small person doesn’t try to wrap herself in my dress, hiding from the zealous strangers desperate to snap a picture of her pale skin and blonde locks. For the most part, she tolerates the constant clicking and we have mastered the ability to shut out the crowds slowly (but surely) closing in on us, if we dare to stop in one place for too long. (The mantra is “Keep moving!") We know enough Chinese to mutter “Enough, thanks, she’s tired” if we need to. Sometimes we even play up to the farce that is being ‘papped’ and pose with all our might in fits of giggles. Hollywood, so close but so far. We know to keep to the side of the footpath and always have one ear listening out for the distant beeps of cars/bikes/Tuk Tuks creeping up behind us….. Now, when I am in any other city that doesn’t ‘beep,’ it seems eerily quiet. We are also proudly adept at crossing the road… no longer finding ourselves stranded on one side, waiting for an eternity until all cars are seemingly absent. (This will never happen.) We know that no matter how good we think we’ve ordered something in our best Chinese, it will almost always be misinterpreted. And that’s ok. If we are lost (in translation), we can somehow muddle through enough Chinese to get to where we want to go without enduring a mild panic attack. (That said, a phone battery dying whilst out of the bubble is still a small catastrophe!) The sobering reality has dawned on me, I will forever be learning Chinese. I will never master the Chinese language in one year, let alone two or possibly even ten. It is a life-long education. (Currently, I spend a lot of the time guessing what people are saying from the one Chinese word I manage to get...my life is a world of charades.) A ride from A to B no longer induces heart palpitations or needs to be taken with wide eyes firmly shut. We can appreciate the scenery before us. I am now used to random people attempting to enter my house with a loud “Nihao” or appearing on my balcony at any time of the day or night, often with a sneaky peek at the Laowai in the gold fish bowl. The noise of loud, rumbling fire crackers cascading through the morning air is now heard without so much as a raised eyebrow; as is the tune ‘It’s a Small World’ signalling the road cleaners are out in force to spray away the desert dust. Those mysterious drones overhead I was convinced were spying on me are just kites…..(no, really)! Skim milk is an anomaly. Ask for it to practice your Chinese, but you will mostly be met with a smiling ‘Mei You!’ (Have not.) Speaking of dairy, yoghurt is a drink. Period. Must use straw at all times. The internet or lack of STILL exasperates me to the point of turning me into a crazy woman on the verge of becoming seriously unhinged, as does the constant turning on of a VPN to have access to anything remotely useful, but I figure it’s not forever, and I breathe! I’m acutely aware that everything I do, say, eat, has an alternative meaning to it in China. Tradition runs deep and is not to be messed with, like ever. If I am sick I have either worn too little or too much in the way of clothing. I will be offered coke with ginger to fix my ailment and if this fails, next stop is an IV drip, in hospital. Umbrellas are the accessory du jour, come rain, hail or shine. There is an umbrella for each season…. and never the twain shall meet. In fact a “sun umbrella” is made of reflective material to ward off the heat. White skin is king and the sun must be avoided at any cost! Even though I display clear signs of tanned sun damaged, Aussie skin, I am somehow hailed as the fair-maiden with desirable silky white skin. Note: No matter how hot it is, taking your shirt off (if you’re a man) is a no no! Rolling it up just underneath your arm pits is an accepted fashion statement. (Six pack not required!) The ubiquitous 'squat toilet' no longer sends me into state of mild panic....running for home. I can take it on with an "I am woman, hear me roar!" attitude...(who am I kidding)! There is nothing fast about Xi’an. It is the complete (end of the earth) opposite to Hong Kong’s 24 hour frenetic city on steroids pace. It's a long (noisy) wait for most things. A sense of humour isn’t a recommendation, it’s a prerequisite. So to this day, every day I am entrenched in a steep learning curve; a journey through the fascinating motherland that is China — an unparalleled universe that thankfully accepts aliens like us, in all our foreign glory! Like ET, I often want to phone home. But...we survived! A new country, a new culture, a freezing winter, heavy pollution, a scorching summer, a new school, a new job, a new hotel, a new life. One hell of an adventure. I’m glad this is not ‘my forever.’ But I'm happy it's for now. 12 months in….. this is China Proud to share this post with Seychelle Mama's #MyExpatFamily … [Read more...]
China’s Big Day Out: A Military Parade that (Literally) Stopped the Nation
It was always going to be a display of grand proportions! Beijing had been practicing for months in the lead up to V-Day Celebrations -- the 70th anniversary of the end of WWII and victory over Japan. China's government had declared September 3rd a one-off public holiday. (In true China style, Friday and Saturday were also given as holidays, with a make-up day for the nation on Sunday!) A grand military parade was to be held on Thursday - the first of such magnitude in a decade. 12,000 troops….rolling tanks, marching soldiers and aerial displays, the majestic order of the day. A monumental showcase of China's military strength. And believe you me, it didn't disappoint. I was in two minds about whether this was the best time to visit Beijing for the very first time? We were told much of the city would be in lockdown for three days. Our hotel was right in the heart of this event….a stone's throw from the famous Tiananmen Square and Forbidden City. I was feeling a bit miffed I wouldn't be able to stand on these sacred spots, but the journo in me was also a tiny bit excited to witness such a moment in China's history. In the 10 day lead up to the celebrations, a lot of things were banned in China. On the naughty list - drones and any activities involving lightweight helicopters, gliders, hot-air balloons and aerostats. VPN's (much to my horror) were cracked down on, making internet connection increasingly difficult… Beginning August 20, Beijing restricted the use of private vehicles on the city’s roads to every other day, based on even and odd numbered license plates. And of course, companies in major polluting industries were suspended. The airing of too many entertainment shows on local television was also discouraged, in favour of dramatic war-time heroics. A bid to rally the troops, so to speak and instill national pride. On the parade day itself, six of China's CCTV channels were showing continuous footage of the parade. Beijing’s two airports were shut for the parade. The skies an unusually brilliant shade of bright powder blue!! (A pollution-free Beijing is, it seems, possible if you know the right people!) There were also 2.8 million flower pots….“featuring themes of peace and victory.” Technically, the Chinese call it “The 70th anniversary of Chinese People’s Anti-Japanese War and the World Anti-Fascist War Victory Commemoration Day” There's no denying, since living on Chinese soil, I've noticed there's a definite air of tension surrounding the Japan-China relationship. (Lets not forget the shooting range half way up the mountain here in Xi’an.) Not to mention word on the street. China's history books paint a story of a nation that has failed to acknowledge and apologize for wartime atrocities. Even today much of the younger generations strongly believe there is a need for Japan to face up to its past. Dr Su Hao from the China Foreign Affairs University said: “To the public, the parade is an important event that needs to be commemorated. So to them, I think that through the parade, it also shows pride in the nation and it rallies the people. So from this point of view, they understand and support the event.” Other media described today as a deliberate message from President Xi Jinping that China is strong and has overcome past difficulties. President Xi Jinping declared, he's presenting the People’s Liberation Army as a force for peace and regional stability. Diplomatic ties between the two historic foes Japan and China have again been strained since late 2012 following a territorial dispute over uninhabited islands in the East China Sea. The spat led to large-scale anti-Japan protests across China and the boycott of Japanese goods. I’m told if you were a local seen in a Japanese car…all hell would break loose. Consequently, sales of Japanese cars slumped by around 50 per cent. Ironically though, with a few days off, many Chinese are heading up to Japan to go shopping! So perhaps still waters don't run too deep, on the street at least. In a speech to US Congress last month, Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe expressed "deep repentance" over Japan's role in World War II but stopped short of issuing his own apology. This is the first such parade to be reviewed by China's current President Xi Jinping…and it's said, he was resolutely determined to execute it well. Many world leaders were invited to the spectacle…and many accepted the invitation, including Russian President Vladimir Putin, leaders from South Korea, Pakistan, Myanmar and Vietnam and former UK Prime Minister Tony Blair. A number of Western leaders were conspicuous in their absence. Thousands of troops from other countries were brought in - including soldiers from Mexico and Fiji..to march with China's PLC. Beijing created four “military parade villages” – including one with a replica of Tiannanmen Gate — on the outskirts of the city, where the troops and military vehicles were deployed for parade rehearsals. Remarkable to watch. An interesting time to be in Beijing. An extravaganza! This is China. … [Read more...]
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