Hey there, Today is officially launch day for China Blonde! It's also the beginning of Mid-Autumn Festival across Asia, and National Day in China (and Ava tells me it's also Star Stable's birthday....*trying not to roll my eyes here*) ;) So lots of good reasons to celebrate!! No book launch yet, due to the 'Covid situation' but hey, it could be worse, this is a very first world problem, so until then I'll continue scurrying around Sydney, swilling a champers here and there with a few friends, delivering China Blonde into their hot little hands. Today though I want to share with you an interview (well it's more like a chat) I did a few months ago with three beautiful women who lived in Xi'an China with me at the same time. We have a wine, a giggle and give you a little insight into what life is like living in China. Enjoy..... And if you still want to get your copy of CB... just click here. … [Read more...]
CHINA BLONDE: How a newsreader’s search for adventure led to friendship, acceptance….and peroxide pandemonium in China.
Hello my friends! Break out the champers, because CHINA BLONDE - the memoir is here!!! If you've been following Mint Mocha Musings for awhile now, like I know so many of you loyally have since 2012 (yes it's been that long), you've probably heard me talking about writing a book.... a lot. And, you've probably wondered if I was making it up -- I don't blame you, it's taken that bloody long! But let me tell you, there is nothing remotely quick about writing a book. I've always wanted to write a book, don't all journos think they've got a book in them? Ha! Probably. But, in all reality, I had no idea what my first book would be about....that is until I got to China. Then it all became 'oh so clear'. Xi'an - this fascinating second-tier city of nine million people, the first ancient capital of China. A city bearing thousands of years of history. Fascinating... until I had to live there. You may remember, culture shock hit me head on like a lightening bolt. Waking up that very first morning, daring to peek outside the hotel window, I felt like I couldn't breathe. Sure, I'd lived in Hong Kong for four years, the Pearl of the Orient. I'd been spoilt and I'd grown to love the glittering harbour city so fiercely, I wanted to call it my forever home. I also, rather foolishly, thought the fragrant harbour had me prepared for mainland China. How wrong I was. … [Read more...]
Ground Hog Day: This is what life in China’s Coronavirus lockdown is really like.
"Ever heard of the movie Ground Hog Day? Well that pretty much sums up how we feel." Those are the words of my good friend, Jenna, living in Xi'an, North West China with her husband and two girls, nine and thirteen. "With school closed until at least the 18th of February, it's get up, breakfast, exercise, play with toys, boardgames, cook, repeat," she says. Xi'an is in Shaanxi Province which shares a border to the south with Hubei Province, and its capital Wuhan, the epicentre of the Coronavirus outbreak. Currently over 20,000 people worldwide have developed the virus with over 400 confirmed deaths. While that figure is steadily rising, and has now overtaken the death toll from SARS, it's still only a two per cent fatality rate. But China's Communist Party is taking no chances. At least not at face value. The outbreak has prompted a response unlike any other in modern history, with Chinese authorities locking down many cities and towns around Wuhan, the city of 11 million where it's believed the virus originated in a market selling wild animals. That's tens of millions of people effectively shut off from the outside world. Anyone who's ever been to China will tell you, there's rarely a quiet moment in the nation with the world's largest population. The streets are at best, chaotic - humming with people, cars, busses, motorbikes, food carts, and street cleaners, day and night -- all fighting for their space amongst the pandemonium. The noise can be almost deafening. But not this month. "It feels very eery, like a ghost town, everything is closed down. The only places that are required to stay open are the supermarkets and hospitals. At our complex one gate is completely sealed off, with one left open for us to get out and go shopping. No one from outside the building is allowed in. No family, no friends." "The days are still and far too silent for this city of 9 million people." says Jenna, who having lived in China for 13 years, has seen it all. Her main concern though is the millions who sell fruit and veggies at the local wet markets or run local restaurants. "How are they going to get an income?" she wonders. "At least the big companies are looked after by the government." An Australian friend Robyn, who's been in China for nine years, and was due to return home to Australia any day now (flights depending) is feeling bereft that there will be no goodbyes in person, no last hot pot meals, just a quiet exit. "We are now very isolated in this crowded city," she says. She has a friend who lives in the south east of Henan, very close to the border of Hubei Province, just three hours drive from Wuhan. She tells her, all roads into my village are barricaded. "So instead of the normal flocks of people returning to celebrate Spring Festival, my village is very quiet. Everyone is bored and strangely no groups of people are milling around talking and no children are playing." Temperature taking is the new norm across the Middle Kingdom. Officials in full Hazmat-style body suits are taking temperatures at random, catching people when they go out, and when they return home, and everything is being recorded. Police and security guards are knocking on people's doors to check if anyone in the household's feeling unwell, is harbouring any visitors or has travelled anywhere in the past week. And in a nation that survives on Taobao deliveries with thousands of little Tuk Tuks weaving in and out of laneways delivering packages to one and all 24/7, now, all deliveries are left at the gates, making contact minimal. Messages come through on We Chat, the What's App equivalent, informing people there will be 'centralised spraying of medicinal drugs by aircraft." What drugs nobody is really sure. The communal areas in Jenna's apartment are regularly sprayed down with vinegar, while a friend's complex is doused in bleach. Public transport is down to a bare minimum. Didi the Uber equivalent has stopped and taxis are few and far between. If you do manage to hale a taxi and they stop, you need to show your passport; all details are recorded including where they picked you up and dropped you off. In Wuhan, naturally, things have reached another level with almost everything closed. Bibby, a Chinese local says, people are told not to go out unless it's an absolute emergency. "Supermarkets are open for a limited time from 10am to 6pm with meat and veggies the most difficult to buy, and always the first thing to run out." Face masks, which have usually only been an accessory for foreigners protecting themselves against the heavy pollution are now mandatory, or face a hefty fine. Hotel General Manager, Peter, in Shenzhen, China's far southwest, had just come through the border crossing from Hong Kong after evacuating his teenage daughter, when he messaged me. "It's unheard of but almost no-one is at immigration and everyone going through has to fill in a health declaration." He has 400 hotel staff due back from various provinces around China after Chinese New Year and is renting rooms to quarantine them. Meantime, in Hong Kong, thousands of medical workers have gone on strike, demanding the city’s government shut down all of its borders with mainland China, to keep out the spread of the virus they call WARS. Many foreigners have chosen to leave the city which is already reeling from months of pro-democracy protests, not to mention the 2003 SARS epidemic which still weighs heavily on the city. Hong Kong local, Mona, says back then, they all worked together to fight the disease but 2020 is very different. "We urged the government to close the borders as quickly as possible but they are not listening." "Because of no planning the supply of masks is extremely tight and people are queuing up for four to five hours to buy just one box of masks, with some stores selling them for HKD900 (US$115). Hong Kong infectious disease experts are urging the government to take 'draconian' measures, estimating as many as 44,000 people could be infected in Wuhan, a figure far higher than official numbers. Amongst the uncertainty, it's believed the epidemic could peak around the end of April, early May. This article from Well Women explains why, despite the risk, so many expats are still choosing to stay in China. For them, ground hog day or not, it's still home and in many instances, probably safer than travelling. Nicole Webb is a Sydney Journalist, Writer and Speaker who spent seven years in China. Her debut memoir 'China Blonde' will be out mid 2020. … [Read more...]
China Travel: Six Important Things to Know Before You Go.
Despite the many blog posts, I’ve written about China, I still get asked all sorts of questions from people about to embark on their big adventure to the Middle Kingdom. So, I’ve put together a quick ‘go to’ list, of essentials, to make sure you’re not caught short when you visit China. Before you go: 1. Download a VPN If you want to be able to use Google, your Gmail account, pop over to Face Book for a nosey, check out Twitter, or use any social media accounts for that matter, or perhaps you want to text home using What’s App, or watch a bit of Netflix -- heads up, you won’t be able to do any of that in China! At least not without a VPN. With many websites banned in the country, a VPN, also known as a Virtual Private Network, simply tricks your computer and/or internet into thinking it’s somewhere else i.e. another country. This allows you to log into all the things you can’t leave home without. In China, it came to be known as my ‘VPS’ –Virtual Protector of Sanity. So, how do you get a VPN? I wrote a post a few years ago on the logistics of choosing a VPN, you can read that here but because those that work best tend to change every year and China is often banning certain VPNs, I’ve also done the legwork to come up with a list of those that are most effective in 2019. NordVPN NordVPN is recommended by those in the know and has kept its focus on becoming one of the better VPNs in China. It also offers good value for money. Click here for more information. Express VPN. Express VPN has long been and still is classed as one of the most efficient and easiest to use. In fact, it was the one we used when we lived in China and was by far the most consistent. VyprVPN VyprVPN began in 2006 in China and has become one of the most popular VPNs. Their security levels are top notch and their speed is excellent. Private Internet Access These guys are one of the simplest to use. You’ll also see they are one of the cheapest. Private VPN Experts say Private VPN is great when used on Stealth mode! 12VPN 12VPN also gets top marks and consistently provides good service. Surfshark Surfshark works well and can help you bypass tough censorship, including the ability to unblock Netflix in the US! Astrill One of the biggest VPN providers, Astrill is still favoured by many as the premier VPN provider in China. All of these obviously cost money so if you’re looking for a FREE VPN for a few days and you’re not too fussy about speed and consistency, try the following: *Hotspot Shield *Windscribe *TunnelBear *bVPN And for the very latest information on the best VPN for your needs (August 2020), check out Consumer Advocate's post here. Best VPN's Based on In-depth Reviews. 2. Install a Translation App While English is spoken by many Chinese, it’s still quite limited in a lot of cities, especially outside the top four. It can be hard to have more than a basic conversation, so it will pay to have a back-up in the form of a good translation app downloaded before you go. These days, there are those that translate your voice directly - what more could you want? Which one to use? Baidu Translate Baidu is one of the easiest because it’s a China-approved app, so will never be blocked and it’s free. Users say conversations are fast and reasonably accurate. Google Translate Google Translate is one of the best but will be blocked unless you have your VPN (see above). It offers both voice and conversation translation. iTranslate Reviewers say it’s one of the best with a great user experience but unfortunately does cost. Good for those who aren’t technically inclined (ahem, yours truly). Microsoft Translator This one isn’t blocked and is free. Very simple to use. You can hear the translation as well as see it in Chinese characters and pinyin. PLECO If you just want a simple app on your phone to type in English words and find out the Chinese equivalent, I couldn’t get by without Pleco. Obviously, the key to using a VPN and any translation app is WIFI, whether that’s with your own data or connecting to the hotel or local WiFi. If you are using Chinese WiFi, warning: don’t expect miracles when it comes to speed! 3. Using Money in China First things first, be sure to tell your bank you’re going overseas, so your cards aren’t blocked. Secondly, be aware that many places in China still don’t take foreign credit cards. (Girls, just FYI Zara and H & M do!) ;) Your best bet is to carry some cash. And because many western banks don’t carry the Chinese Yuan (RMB), it’s probably easiest to exchange enough money at the airport to get you by, at least until you reach your hotel, for things like a taxi from the airport and food. From there on in, you should be able to use your debit card to withdraw from an ATM – make sure they have the Visa or Mastercard logo. Those major banks that should allow you to do this are: Bank of China, China Merchant’s Bank or ICBC. ATMs do have English, but you will need your pin for both debit and credit cards. Of course, WeChat and Alipay are now taking over cash in China for locals as the most popular forms of payment, but even though there is an option to add a foreign credit card to the apps, I’m told it’s not as reliable or perhaps easy as you think. **Also, note, if you’re using cash in Chinese shops, do expect it may be funnelled through a machine which detects whether or not they’re fake notes. Unfortunately, this is a reality in China, and I’ve known tourists to be caught out, even when withdrawing from an ATM. 4. Travelling Around China If you want to book travel flights within China, the best online site is Ctrip, now called Trip.com. It's generally cheaper than foreign companies and they have English-speaking phone support in case you have any problems. Beware, there’s a big possibility (like a fifty per cent chance) that any flight you take in China will be delayed, so be prepared! Also, there’ll likely be no English spoken on Chinese domestic carriers and the food tends to be a little dubious. Trains on the other hand, almost always run on time and are extremely speedy and efficient. China's bullet trains run at 300km plus an hour and have you there in no time at all! They’re also safe and pretty comfortable too. For timetables in English, these two sites are recommended and are also good options to purchase your tickets online. - www.china-diy-travel.com (also gives fares, in RMB) - www.chinahighlights.com (also gives fares, in US$) www.chinatt.org Try to book well in advance as tickets do get sold out, especially if there are any big national holidays looming. You can also book trains on Trip.com You can try buying your tickets at the stations, especially Beijing, but before you do, I highly recommend checking out this site which is super detailed on everything to do with trains in China! Note: You will need your passport for all ticket purchases. To get around most cities in China, a taxi is usually your best option. Cash is still the easiest method to pay your fare with unless you have WeChat or Alipay. Some taxis will refuse to give you change for 100RMB so make sure you have smaller notes on hand too. Before you get in, ensure you have the name of your destination written in Chinese or a card from the hotel, to hand the driver. It is law for Chinese taxis to use a meter so if you’ve flagged down a normal cab, check that it’s on and if they refuse by trying to negotiate a ‘price’ with you, you can simply refuse and exit the cab. Most taxis are bright colours, red, green or yellow, so you can't miss them, but there are also what’s known as illegal ‘black cabs.’ These so called cabbies don’t use meters and can end up costing you much more than you bargained for. If you do use one, try and negotiate a price before you get in. In many city’s don’t be surprised if taxis refuse to pick up foreigners. It’s not personal, they simply don’t want the hassle of someone who can’t speak the language. Thankfully, what is more popular now is the Chinese Uber equivalent, Didi Chuxing.Download this app and set up your payment method before you leave home.It is available in English and they do take foreign credit cards! For more information you can check out this link here 5. Using a Phone When you’re travelling, having network data is key, right? As I mentioned, WiFi isn't always available so connecting to a Chinese network is crucial. You can do this with international roaming, which is obviously the easiest way, but it can also be the most expensive. Alternatively, you can purchase a Chinese SIM card but this does mean your phone needs to be unlocked or you can buy a cheap Chinese phone when you arrive. Travel China Cheaper goes into extensive detail here. There’s also another option which involves renting a phone and wifi for China online. This will give you a Chinese phone number, which is often needed when connecting to WiFi in public places, help you avoid any security concerns, and basically save you a whole lot of time! Here are the details to do this. 6. Powering up In mainland China, Hong Kong and Macau, the power supplied to sockets is 220 volts at 50Hz AC. This is similar to what you’ll find in most of Europe and Australia but different to the 110V 60Hz found in the United States and Canada. There are a variety of plugs found in China, but the 220V 50Hz electrical current stays the same. If you find that you have a device rated for 220V or 240V that won’t fit any of these plugs make sure you purchase a simple travel plug converter before you leave. Now you've got all that, time to get packing! Struggling with what to pack? Check out my post on the Top Ten Things to Pack When Travelling to China And just before you go, couple of key things to remember: The tap water in China is NOT drinkable (that includes brushing your teeth).Air pollution can be a serious hazard, particularly in the winter months. Make sure you bring a mask to wear if levels are extremely high. I recommend Vog Masks.And of course, avoiding travel insurance is simply not an option. … [Read more...]
Views from Both Sides of the Border: Hong Kong and China, the People’s Voice.
My heart tightens when I think of Hong Kong. The place where my only baby was born, the enchanting land where we were embraced and emboldened by its people to call it our home for many years. I have yet to meet a nation of people who’re so humble, hardworking and harmonious. Truly. Open up any newspaper around the world today though, watch any news bulletin and you’ll read, see and hear of the violence and anger that has gripped the financial hub of 7.5 million for the past few months; you’ll hear of an economy plunging, a tourist haven in jeopardy and you’ll likely feel the fear, fear of the unknown. So, as I watch on with the rest of the world holding our breath, waiting for what comes next, after eleven consecutive weekends of protests that have involved many hundreds of thousands of people desperate to be heard, I can’t help but wonder where this will end. You see, I also know China, the real China. A city in the very heart of the mainland whose people also took us into their fold welcoming us with open arms, begging us to stay when we had to call it a day after 2.5 years.Sure, the constitution that surrounds and imbues China is poles apart from Hong Kong, but its people, essentially carry the same hallmarks of decency and kindness. This I know. But, despite the resonating, well-meaning civility that comes from both sides, there is clearly a great divide. After all that’s what started this whole mess isn't it? And now it seems the divide is spreading like wildfire amongst Hong Kong’s own people. Pro-Government versus anti-government, police versus the protesters, generations against each other, everyone’s cage is rattled. "I feel ashamed of our Chief Executive who ignores the voices of the Hong Kong people -- Carrie Lam is the one who has put the police force right upfront to fight against the citizens of Hong Kong while she hides behind them. She has turned us into enemies whilst we are all from the same root. Shame on her!" One impassioned local tells me. Another is preparing to leave his home of Hong Kong after 50 long years. A former member of the police force and then ICAC, he's furious and deeply saddened about what’s happened to the city’s police. Either way, the passion from most locals is evident and only continues to grow stronger with each new day. Mona Wong calls herself a proud Hong Kong citizen and has participated in the peaceful rallies. She says, while she doesn’t agree with any form of violence or abusive behaviour from the protestors or police officers, she can feel the protestor’s pain. “After weeks and weeks of peaceful protests our government hasn’t listened to our noise or demands, using excessive force to stop the protestors,” she says. In a move perhaps not seen before anywhere else in the world, there is no protest leader, and actions are decided on the spot. It seems the protestors have borrowed a strategy from a Bruce Lee movie, known as Be Water, My Friend. Instead of staging massive sit ins, they move in unexpected waves, rolling from one spot to another, a “formless” protest in Lee’s words – to sustain their momentum and secure the continued goodwill of the public. But that hasn’t always panned out so well. The city's international airport was in lockdown after anger spilled over and anti government protestors and police clashed, forcing hundreds of flights to be delayed or cancelled. Vivian* born and bred in Hong Kong says, “I one hundred per cent support the protesters. But when they act wrong, we will remind them. Like blocking people to get on a flight, that’s why the youngsters sent an apology letter yesterday.” “We make a mistake, we own, it we learn from it, we improve from it. We are very proud of this generation.” She says. And they did. A full-page apology for the airport fiasco was issued. Many in Hong Kong have taken to wearing black every day to show their support for the protestors and essentially show which side they're on. But it seems not everyone is prepared to follow suit. “My aunts and uncles are afraid of us in our black shirts, they think we are the ones to stir things up.” Vivian says. Another tells me, she’s witnessed many family fights erupt because of the protests. “It’s breaking families apart.”Some even say they’ve heard students are being paid to take things a step further. HK$500 per brick/per window broken – many reportedly doing it for petty cash. And for some, despite supporting the initial cause, their sympathy is fast running out. Businessman and long time resident of Hong Kong, Chris* believes, few have a realistic view of the outcome. “Most of those who are supporting the protesters don’t know China well and are of a younger population who're hoping to send Hong Kong back to a time that never was. They are also millennials who know nothing of the lives of their parents or their work ethics which built the foundation of Hong Kong. It was never open or democratic - under the British they complained of the British and proclaimed they were Chinese. And now? They had everything going for them as a key open and free city in an emerging China with the best legal system in Asia and they are squandering it all. They will never accept they are sowing the seeds of their own destruction and will always blame China for that.” While most expats in Hong Kong (and there are over 300,000) support the general ideals, saying they have no plans to leave at the moment, many are expressing concern with each week that passes. ‘The protesters whilst trying to be creative and fluid, will start to test the patience of otherwise sympathetic citizens,’ one expat says. But they freely admit, the Hong Kong government appears to be tone deaf when it comes to listening to the people, reeling out generic responses. ‘They do not seem to want (or are allowed) to listen.’ Another longtime expat, Aaron* says, “The police and Carrie Lam have shown themselves to hold the people of Hong Kong with contempt. I’m guessing she isn’t able to do anything without approval from Beijing and they won’t acquiese to the demands of the people. Imagine the implications of that!” With emotions running high, no matter which side of the fence you sit on, for most people living in Hong Kong it’s simple - let us keep our freedom, let us be. For the protestors and those supporting them, they want their five demands met -- until then, the fight to be heard continues. Those five demands are: A full withdrawal of a proposed bill that would allow Hong Kong people to be extradited to mainland China. A retraction of any characterization of the movement as a “riot.” A retraction of charges against anti-extradition protesters. An independent committee to investigate the Hong Kong police’s use of force. Universal suffrage in elections for the city’s chief executive officer and legislature by 2020. What about China though, is Beijing about to lose patience? With military troops stationed just over the border, there are grave fears, they’re just waiting for their cue to roll in. The Economist says, it’s unlikely. China’s understanding of its own power and influence has changed since, for example, the crackdown on Tiananmen Square 30 years ago. It is more powerful, more confident and has an understanding of the role that prosperity plays in its stability….and of the role that Hong Kong plays in its prosperity. Still, China views all protests and pro-democracy political voices as potential challenges to its one-party rule. It perceives Hong Kong’s calls for democracy as particularly threatening because of the city’s international prominence and it sets a dangerous precedent that any compromise on political reform could flow on to China’s other regions, including Tibet, Xinjiang, Inner Mongolia, Macau, and Taiwan. What about average citizens on the ground in China, what do they think about the protests, that have now largely become a case of Hong Kong versus China, and have fast gained world-wide attention? For them it’s generally a lot simpler, many to this day, because of the way China’s history is recorded, are still very much unaware of the Tiananmen Square massacre.They support the police because in their eyes, 'In Mainland China, the police stand for stability and peace.' I messaged a few people to gage their opinions; many didn’t want to speak about it on We Chat, the What’s App/Facebook equivalent, fearful of being watched, and none wanted their names mentioned. Several of my emails simply didn’t make it. One that did was to local Chinese hotel manager in Sanya, Mr Ma. ‘Hong Kong is a rich brother we lost to Britain for many years, the students do not understand the real situation - they are Chinese, any other country does not sincerely care about Hong Kong people,’ he said. In what could be labelled a case of irony, there is a definite sense that Hong Kong protestors are being manipulated. ‘Young students are being used by powerful people who hate China,’ Mr Ma says. Weibo, the Twitter equivalent, is in overdrive with comments reporting users are sad for Hong Kong and the continuing protests must have had support from hostile forces to disturb the Chinese and Hong Kong economy. Mr Ma agrees though, that they should maintain the ‘One country, two systems,’ approach, and in a line borrowed from another old Hollywood movie, he quotes, ‘Hong Kongers need to understand the difference between citizens and being civic-minded - Someone who has a sense of responsibility towards the community as a whole.’ And in testament to his views, (among many) this video by British scholar Martin Jacques appears to be circulating amongst the masses in China. Professor Jacques says, "There is a view that Hong Kong did well before 1997, it was smart, clever, and free, because it was tied to Britain. This is a serious misinterpretation of history, he says. Hong Kong did well in the late 70’s and the handover, because it got lucky. China in 1978 started to open up, step by step, not fully until after the World Trade Organisation agreement in 2001; So while it was opening up in a piecemeal fashion, Hong Kong could take on some of the functions China would’ve done, as a front office, and it was the beneficiary." Many Chinese nationals are of the belief, Hong Kongers look down on them. ‘If I go to Hong Kong, I don’t dare to speak Chinese to them, just English,' a friend tells me. For more on the China-Hong Kong relationship, this is an earlier post I wrote. Other Chinese citizens who simply fight to exist in the still largely poverty-stricken population of 1.4 billion, believe Hong Kong is part of China and that’s that! Despite the majority having never been to Hong Kong, they believe the two sides are firmly entrenched together. ‘We are one, we are always together!’ While the snippets of news generally show Hong Kong in peril, in reality, away from any protests, many are keen to make it known, its mostly business as usual and there is genuine hope the city’s long held reputation for peace and prosperity will not be tarnished in the long term. To all of you, I say, ‘Jia You’ or ‘Add Oil’ - the Hong Kong/English expression to offer encouragement and support - a 'hang in there' if you like, during this turbulent time of unbridled uncertainty and fear. *** *Some names have been changed. *For a rundown on what's happened in Hong Kong, thus far, watch this video made by Hong Kongers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsjiZD2E6h0&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR3T4AAaT1A2mFy4IRKc_VU5ddQeIn9wOpEH2VKq9tEYA8DAXzVobIfMHx8 And for more on the background story between China and Hong Kong here's a good piece from the Council on Foreign Relations. … [Read more...]
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