Mint Mocha Musings

The hotelier's wife: an expat affair around the globe

It Takes a Small Village to Raise a Child in a Big City

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It’s four days out from the big C (the “big C" being our imminent move to Central China).  As you'd expect, I'm rushing around like the undoubtedly mad woman that I am, ticking off a ‘to do’ list longer than the Great Wall of China. Admittedly a lot of it involves ‘maintenance’ - all in preparation for a potential lack of hairdressers able to colour blonde hair or my inability to track down a decent manicurist. (First world problems of course!)   Then there are the trips to my local GP to stock up on medication for those unexpected illnesses and of course buying more panadol, deodorant and toothpaste than you can poke a proverbial stick at. (My husband keeps reminding me, we are not actually going to prison, but I'm choosing to go with the Girl Scout motto that is, "Be Prepared!") So when I'm not out buying in bulk, I'm staring into space (which mostly involves looking at a somewhat spectacular view of Hong Kong’s strapping skyscrapers, rolling mountains and sparkling seas) wrapped in a million memories, mourning this chapter that's coming to a close. It's always a weird feeling between moves. Stuck in limbo...not quite part of your old life, and yet not belonging in your future life.  I will soon be staring out at a giant Wild Goose Pagoda. (Yes I can feel your sympathetic but slightly amused smirk from here.) My husband has already arrived in Xi’an. He’s been there for over a week and barely surfaced for air! Meantime, I sit here, desperate for him to throw me a bone, on life in the ancient capital. Amongst his own madness that is running a new hotel he knows little about, he’s thankfully thrown me a few morsels, mostly some grainy photos showcasing the surprisingly buzzing tourist area (including giant Pagoda) where we will make our home; informed me of the smoke-free hotel car (not always a given) with its English speaking driver; and illustrated the wide, leafy streets and his relief at the displays of English signage. Oh and the space. Coming from a place where space is like a prized cow at a fairground, I’ve gotta say, this is quite exciting.  And let's not forget the pictures of Starbucks across the road! Priorities!! Still, I'm anxiously twiddling my thumbs, wondering what to expect, really expect! My heart pounds nervously as I scour Facebook pages on life in China, naturally Xi’an in particular. (Yes, encouragingly there are Facebook groups, even if Facebook is banned in China.) Naturally in between all of this I am frantically farewelling my butt off. (I can wish.) In between stocking piling supplies and gazing longingly at Hong Kong, I'm squeezing in afternoon teas at posh hotels, dinners at iconic city spots and foot massages in true oriental style, all with a bevy of warm and witty women I like to call 'my village.' Having arrived in the Fragrant Harbour four years ago, well and truly preggars, I missed out on the compulsory Hong Kong induction, that largely involves wild days on Junks and long nights in Lan Kwai Fong, where jelly shots rule the streets and you don't emerge until daylight beckons. I’ll admit, a part of me (clearly a much younger version of me) was ever so slightly disappointed… but I’ve managed to make up for it in other ways. (Ever tried Jelly shots at home!) Amongst the sleepless nights and coffee-fuelled days spent in a haze, as a first-time mother in a foreign country, believe it or not, I’ve managed to get Ava to the ripe old age of 3.5 without having her choke on chicken's feet or poke herself in the eye with a chopstick. Winning! Now as I go about my daily life, stopping to say goodbye to the people who’ve punctuated our lives, the phrase ‘It takes a small village to raise a child’ echoes in my mind.  We might just be tiny specks in a bustling, fast and furious city of seven million people, but raising a child hasn’t been done alone. From our good friends on the block, to my invaluable helper (nanny) who has helped us on far too many levels to count from day dot; to Ava’s little pre-school downstairs where the teachers have treated us like family and are without hesitation throwing my girl a farewell party; to the local dry cleaners who’ve been giving Ava a lollipop every single visit, since well, well before she had teeth! It's these regular faces that make our world go round.  There's also the W hotel’s warm and generous staff, who've constantly showered Ava with love, attention and unexpected gifts of kindness; the Starbucks staff who make my much-required Mint Mocha before I’ve even hit the counter and the ladies who've been scoping out a seat for us in the crowded coffee shop, since Ava was barely a week old….. there were the ladies in the clothes shop opposite who entertained Ava (or perhaps it was the other way around) while I took a brief sanity break, inhaling my coffee at high speed. There's the concierge staff downstairs in our apartment block who high-five Ava every single morning on the way out (even if she is going through the “don’t look at me, don’t talk to me" grumpy toddler phase); the security guards at the gate who make sure she gets across the road safely with a smile; to the ladies in the supermarket who’ve chatted to her enthusiastically in Cantonese every Saturday morning since the beginning when she'd toddle in with daddy, usually, unintentionally sending the fruit and veges rolling down the isle. The myriad of friendly Filipino helpers who wave and call out to Ava wherever we go in our ‘hood. (I'm constantly surprised at the number of people my blondie actually knows.)  This has been our small village, well and truly alive amongst the madness of Asia's World City... and for that, I’m forever grateful. I can only hope we will encounter some of the kindness this village has shown us, in Xi’an, China....where another city of 8-million awaits. Do you have a village in an unexpected place, that gets you through your daily life? Tell me!  Psssst... If you want to keep up to date with the latest from China, and you haven't already, make sure you subscribe to the blog. Click here..   … [Read more...]

The Expat Club: The Membership that’s for Life

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As many of you know, our departure from the frenzy of bright lights, burgeoning buildings and bustling bodies that make up the metropolis of Hong Kong, is imminent. While I can’t deny I've fallen madly in love with this city, in truth, I've always known the toughest goodbye wouldn’t be to Hong Kong itself, but to my family, my 'expat' family.When you're in a foreign country, devoid of all things familiar - from the language, to the landscape, culture and climate; not to mention your community, friends and loved ones, you reach out (clutch desperately) to those like-minded souls walking the same path as you.  I've long realized just how important these people from all walks of life, strolling (or quite possibly, running) alongside us in our new life have come to be, but it was a few months ago when it really hit home, just how pivotal the expat connection becomes to your daily existence.  For more, click over to Expat Focus for my full column here... … [Read more...]

The Big 5: Shop till You Drop in Hong Kong

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The top five shopping spots in the Kong. Recently here at Mint Mocha Musings we brought you The Big 5: Transport Yourself into Hong Kong's Heartland, a list of those can't miss sights, when you're making that flying visit into the frenetic fusion where east meets west. Let's face it, we all like to have the insider's lowdown before we visit a new city and if we live in Hong Kong and are having visitors, it's a god send! As you may know, Mint Mocha Musings is (in the near future) moving to China! (And hopefully, you'll come with me (virtually of course.) So as my parting gift - this month, ladies and gents, it's about the true essence of Hong Kong. Yep! We're going shopping! All you self-confessed shop'oholics out there, grab your most fashionable walking shoes and arm yourself with a serious pair of bag-carrying biceps. First time in the world's shopping capital? It's game on. Having paced the streets for a good few years now, sniffing out the best spots for some serious retail therapy, I'm going to narrow it down to those five areas worth trekking to, especially if you're on a tight schedule in the mighty Kong. #1 CENTRAL - Like it or not, you just can't miss an excursion to downtown Central. This is undoubtedly Hong Kong's hub and even if you don't pick up anything in your travels, it's certainly worth a look for the sheer frenzy-factor alone. Warning: it's crowded, so prepare to make like a bull in a China shop and charge! (Either that or get swallowed up in the madness.) From luxurious designer digs like LV, Coach and Prada, to the ancient lane ways, bearing cheap and cheerful trinkets, there's something for everyone here, you just have to look. The Landmark Shopping Mall on the corner of D'aguilar Street/Queens Road is where you'll find a myriad of glamorous high-end shop fronts like Dior, Balenciaga, Chanel, Armani and Jimmy Choo as well as Asia's only Harvey Nichols. Opposite is the famous Abercrombie & Fitch standing statuesque with its red velvet carpet, glitzy chandeliers and booming tunes. Up a little further, in much the same vicinity you'll find flagship retailers like Marks and Spencer, Cotton On, Gap, Top Shop and most recently the city's biggest and brightest Zara! There's also a very suave Shanghai Tang just off Queens Road in Duddell St. If you're after a quality Chinese suit, dress or handbag to remind you of those oriental days in the fragrant harbour, this sophisticated store is the place to be. Further down, you'll find quintessential Hong Kong. Li Yuen Street West and Li Yuen Street East, known as The Lanes are  markets selling everything from Chinese dresses, kid's clothes, silks, handbags and trinkets, at very reasonable prices. If you're up for a walk, keep trekking along Queens Road to Sheung Wan, where you'll find a smorgasbord of dried food shops stocking all sorts of weird and wonderful treats, including dried abalone, black moss and snakeskin - essential items for the traditional Chinese kitchen! There's also Cat Street, which has nothing to do with our furry friends, but instead houses plenty of souvenirs (including much-treasured Ming Dynasty furniture). There are also plenty of charming little cafes springing up along Tai Ping Shan Street, if you need to relax and regroup before the next retail round! Head further up the hill, either on foot (heels not advised) or take the Central-Mid Levels escalator (this is the world's longest outdoor escalator by the way) and stop off in Soho for a host of cute boutiques, galleries and historic antique shops. Here you'll find that something extra special and out of the ordinary. It's thirsty work but don't worry, there's a plethora of cafes and restaurants beckoning you to take a pit stop. Stay on until early evening and soak up the lively Soho/LKF outdoor bar atmosphere. Watch as the city really wakes up! #2 CAUSEWAY BAY - It's shopping mania and if you haven't keeled over yet from all the excitement, jump on one of the city's oldest modes of transport, the double decker tram or for a slightly quicker arrival (depending on traffic) take a red cab and head to Hong Kong's New York city equivalent, Times Square! With 16 floors, you'll find it heaving with everything from high end to high street fashion. But if you feel like you've seen it all before, don't despair - head over to the city's biggest department store, Japanese retailer SOGO. A mere 13 floors, SOGO sells everything from beauty to fashion, as well as electrical goods. Don't forget to stop in Forever 21 on the way past, this clothing store is worthy of a good browse with endless racks bringing catwalk fashion prices to the affordability of high street! (Don't miss the top floor for a treasure chest of accessories.) For some more market action, it's worth scooting through the narrow and crowded Jardine's Bazaar, just in case there's a teeny tiny stall holding a bargain with your name on it. Don't be afraid to venture into some of the smaller shopping malls in Causeway Bay either - it's here you'll find all sorts of quirky fashion pieces. #3 STANLEY MARKETS - First time to Hong Kong (even second or third) you really can't miss Stanley Markets. Away from the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong, this quaint village is a scenic ride (via cab or bus) that winds along Hong Kong's stunning south coast. Here, you'll find everything from local trinkets and oriental souvenirs to galleries boasting paintings of all things 'Hong Kong,' handbags (two for one ladies), linen, costume jewellery, sneakers, kids toys (big and small) and kids clothes, plus men's clothing in larger sizes. Keep your eyes peeled because you might also come across some genuine designer brands on display as imperfect seconds or factory surplus stock! NB: Most stores do allow bartering for your bargain, but beware - prices are not as low as other Hong Kong markets. The best bit, after you've huffed and puffed your way through the narrow lane ways, treat yourself to lunch or dinner alfresco style. Perch yourself on a seat along the picturesque promenade at one of the many western style restaurants. Exhale and cast your eye across the beautiful bay. You're in Hong Kong! #4 MONGKOK LADIES MARKETS - Got a taste for the local market scene? Then, my friends, the famed Ladies Markets are not to be missed. Open every day of the year, except the first day of Chinese New Year, this is officially the world's most crowded and prosperous corner! Located on Hong Kong's Kowloon side, take the MTR or a taxi where you can spend at least an hour roaming this one kilometre stretch of stalls that are literally overflowing with more hand bags, iPad cases, children's dress-up costumes, cheap jewellery, travel goods and denim than you can poke a stick at! Here, bartering is in full force, so you can haggle to your heart's content.  The rule of thumb is to go down to a quarter of the cost and if need be, double it so you end up paying around fifty per cent. Bear in mind if you're one of the first customers of the day, you're considered 'lucky' and might be in line for a cheaper price. Don't forget, much of Hong Kong sleeps until noon and these markets don't really liven up until around 2pm. If your bargain seems to good too be true, relax, there's every chance it is. The busiest corner of the world is home to a lot of counterfeit goods. (You can check out my previous post 'Counterfeit Craze' here.)  With everything produced in China, it's shipped over the border and sold at rock-bottom prices. In other words you get what you pay for. It's all in the name of good fun though! Right?! While you're there, adjacent to the markets, you'll find Sneaker Street and Sim City. Sneaker Street is loaded with shops carrying the obvious. Sim City is an electronic lover's paradise, with computers, accessories, software and cameras lining the shelves... and all of reputable quality, I might add. (Trust me on this, I even brought my husband's birthday present here!) Still cashed up? The day's not over yet - walk under the subway across Nathan Road and you'll find Langham Place - with more than 200 shops, including an entire floor dedicated to shoes and another one purely to cosmetics, shoppers, how can you go wrong! It also sporting a very busy H & M with Esprit and Gap just a hop, skip and a jump across the road. All this shopping making you a bit famished? Don't be afraid to try the city's famous Dai Pai Dongs or street food stalls. You might be surprised at just how tasty fish balls, congee and milk tea are (not to mention dirt cheap)! More money to shop with right! #TSIM SHA TSUI - Locally known as TST, on Kowloon side - you can catch the iconic Star Ferry from Hong Kong Island. Here you'll find everything in one block (albeit a rather big one). Harbour City Shopping Centre is (naturally) packed with your regular designer digs (you're in Hong Kong remember) including Manolo Blahnik, Hermes and Chanel. Upstairs Zara and Nine West flank swanky cafes along with a range of shops perhaps a little more unique to Hong Kong. Walk right through to the end and you'll find yourself in Ocean Terminal. This is mainly for the little people. Kid's clothes galore in every shape and size (warning: they may be for the small person, but many are still designer digs, and come at a designer price!). There's a rather GI-normous Toys R Us, that you may never, ever escape once you enter. If you can, from here, it's worth a walk up Canton Road for a spot of gold jewellery shopping (and plenty of people watching) or start the trek along busy Nathan Road, which is filled with nail salons, tailors, more jewellers, cosmetics and quite simply, most things imaginable. Don't mind the local hawkers trying to sell you copy watches and bags, they really are pretty harmless! Phew! So, from me to you, that's one way of shopping till you drop in the mighty Kong! If you have the time and want to get a bit more local with your shopping experience, this post here, Word on the Street might just satisfy your curiosity. Happy Shopping!     … [Read more...]

Stop the Press: We’re Moving to China!

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Almost four years on board the expat train in the multi-layered metropolis of Hong Kong, it's time to call it a day. I knew this post was coming… in fact I've known since the day we decided to pull up stumps and relocate from our home in Australia -- that one day it would all come to an end. To be honest with you, the day I stepped foot in humid, heaving Honkers - I already had my eyes on the finish line. I'll give it two years (at best) I thought, then we'll go home. But with time comes acceptance, assimilation and ultimately adoption. I've unexpectedly fallen in love with this intoxicating city, enough to start a serious relationship and call it home - 43 floors up.  In fact, I've spent more of my married life in Asia's World City than in Australia and have experienced the biggest life-changing event of all in the city that (appropriately) never sleeps - motherhood! When my toddler asks where she's from it's Hong Kong (Kowloon to be precise) her home is a very tall building called Gwun Lum Tin Ha and she thrives on a diet of dim sum and rice. Truth be told, I've also (surprisingly) become a little bit addicted to expat life. It sneaks up on you. Before you know it, you're hailing cabs like a woman possessed, wielding chopsticks with an element of finesse and crowd jamming with the best of 'em. For the last 18 months though, 'normal' life has been interspersed with a roller coaster ride of emotions - heart racing moments, highs and lows, plenty of what ifs, what next and how the hell?! With a husband in hotels, they like you to progress and conquer, meaning the next role is never too far out of sight. There's an unspoken rule…don't get too comfortable, for soon it will be time to move on. This time it's for 'top dog' -- General Manager -- the very reason we started this expat journey. The ball started rolling as the clock struck midnight 2013! No sooner had we clinked champagne glasses, pondering what the future may hold …the phone literally lit up with calls. (Who needs fireworks!) First cab off the rank (unexpectedly) Sydney! Yes! Sydney!!  It wasn't for top dog. But it was Sydney!! Our home. It's like being offered your favourite pair of warm fluffy slippers after you thought you'd lost them or a warm blanket when you've been out in the cold too long. So very tempting to slot back into that old life where good friends, good jobs, a city we love and precious family not too far away, co-exist all in One. Single. Place. Really - what's to think about? Call us crazy (yes the really loopy in the head kind of crazy if you must) but… it wasn't time. It was too soon. We realized then and there, when fate slapped us in the face, we'd changed. The excitement of living amongst a different culture, constantly learning and forever adapting -- being in a place where each day brings new surprises, some good, some bad and some just plain bizarre had caught us in its grip, more tightly than we'd ever anticipated….and so we said no to Sydney -- for now. Then a month later, Wuhan, China came knocking at our door. And just when we thought we were hardened expats, ready to embrace the next big adventure, Wuhan wobbled us off our expat axis…. With two days to decide, we took a frantic flight to the place they call Asia's furnace. I'll spare you the drama, but  if you missed it, you can read about the slightly harrowing, yet enlightening experience in my previous post - Do All Roads Lead to China? So, feeling weary and weighed down with the pressure of making the right decision again, we wiped our brow, took a few deep breaths, dusted Wuhan off and carried on enjoying life in the fragrant harbour. Breathing in Hong Kong air never felt so good! Then, about a month later, just chilling on the couch, a late night email came through. This time - the arrow had spun around, landing on - Bangkok! We tried to contain our excitement, hide our smug grins (it is the 'Land of Smiles' after all). This was the prize winning lotto ticket (after Hong Kong). We could do this! No consideration necessary.  A quick google search for the hotel… it met all our expectations - perfect for a first time GM. A sparkling city boasting plenty of culture and charisma. As any expat would know, when you get this kind of call, as much as your head tells you sternly not to start planning, you let a little bit of your imagination run away….just a little. You start picturing what daily life in that country might look like. Where you might live. What you might do each day? Imagine yourself walking the streets amongst the Tuk Tuks, temples and famous Thai cuisine.  A new culture to explore and conquer. We're in! But we weren't. Disappointed, you tell yourself it's not to be. About now, a little bit of panic sets in. What's next then, will China call again? Brace yourself, you can't say no forever. You also breathe a small sigh of relief, knowing it buys you extra time. Time in your haven where you can almost pretend you're not going anywhere. Life goes on as normal - school run, work, socializing, trips away, shopping….doctor's appointments. But just as you let your guard down, relax and almost convince yourself you're here to stay, the inevitable happens. When my husband comes home from work in the middle of the day, bearing a Mint Mocha, I know it's serious. "How does Melbourne sound?" he says ever so half heartedly. Then more enthusiastically, "This time it's top dog!" My heart skips a beat. We've got 24 hours. 24 hours to make a decision to put ourselves forward as one of three candidates for a role which could potentially change our lives. We talk it through…over and over. We text family… we try to get a feeling one way or the other. It's home but it's not really home. It's still too far from family. It's a great opportunity but is it a great move financially? Great city, but we're not convinced it's for us. We can't decide. There are tears of frustration, heated words. We make a list of pros and cons. We think we should go…but when it comes down to it, we realise, neither of us really wants to. What's happened to us? They joke people (namely expats) get lost in Asia. Is this us? Much to the surprise (shock) of friends and family we decline Melbourne and deep down know this may very well be a decision we long live to regret. But still, we feel OK. We know we've got unfinished business in Asia. If we end expat life now and go home, we'll never know where it may have taken us. Another few weeks go by after the emotional upheaval… and again 'normality' resumes, that is until we hear the top spot at one of the company's other hotels in Hong Kong is up for grabs. Could this be ours? A chance to stay in Hong Kong! Is it too good to be true? Yes it is. This one's got a list as long as my arm and we're not at the top. My husband's getting itchy feet …should we have gone home? Are we going to end up in the back of China? Probably. It's hard to make plans….how long have we got? Do I sign up for that work event? Should Ava start her new school? Should I say yes to that Junk boat invitation next month. Can we book a flight home? Then it happens again, lying in bed one night, another day is over…James quickly checks his emails - a few expletives…then, "The W Koh Samui - They want to put me forward as one of three!" Uh oh.. here we go again….a restless night ensues, simultaneously, we toss and turn. Another long three weeks go by, waiting…waiting - stomach in knots…is this the one? I've never been to Koh Samui, but it's hard not to have heard about it. That famous Leonardo DiCaprio movie The Beach springs to mind. Amazing location. But an island? - me on an island? Until recently we'd all but ruled-out resorts. Too isolating for us city slickers we'd joked and brushed the idea under the carpet. But after the last six months, lazy days by the pool suddenly sound very inviting. I picture a relaxed, family lifestyle, lots of delicious writing overlooking the powdery white sand and crystal clear waters…life in a variety of techni-coloured sarongs. Am I dreaming? From 7-million to 62,000 people! Suffice to say, I was dreaming, it didn't eventuate. Disappointed, again, we take a collective sigh and try to carry on as normal. The next email comes a month later. The desert heat of Doha is calling. I'm scared because it's the Middle East and it's not familiar, but I'm also keen because I actually know people there. This could work….I start to envisage Arabian nights under the stars, but after a month the project is placed on the back burner and the idea of camel rides in the sand is quickly blown away. Hot on its heels comes Goa, in India! By this point my husband is calmly throwing these locations out there over dinner and I'm usually replying with a nervous half chuckle, too scared to acknowledge it might be the one. I've never heard of Goa but our English friends tell us it's the perfect island city. Again my imagination does a little dance and I think about life on a diet of curries and a place where cows roam the streets. But again I'm quietly anxious. It's a time when India is front and centre in the news for all the wrong reasons… So,  maybe it's just as well the powers that be rendered Goa not the place for us. Swallow, inhale, exhale, repeat! At this point I'm stuck between desperately wishing for a crystal ball and just forgetting this limbo land exists! My iPhone weather app seriously can't take any more cities. But it's going to have to. A little town in China comes up called Heifei. Unfortunately a quick google tells me it's one of Asia's 'other' furnaces. This little town has seven million people and it's still considered a backwater! The city's nickname "nowheresville" jumps out at me from my screen. I anxiously read on and discover it's a place where people can't park their own cars. I picture myself being flagged down by rich Chinese in Mercedes and asked to parallel park for them. We say no to Heifei. It's not long before bikinis are back on the agenda. It's Bali but a sideways move for James. We debate the merits and as much as we'd love to dabble in the Island of Gods, it defeats the purpose of this adventure.  Relaxing back home over a little Christmas lunch with the family Down Under, the faraway land of Seoul in South Korea springs up! On paper, it sounds oh so very sophisticated, but by this point in the game we barely bat an eyelid… just as well because by New Year, Seoul is off the cards. Another day comes, another Chinese city. ChongQing. The third furnace in China… also known as the 'fog city.' Somehow we narrowly escape this one. Then Macau is placed in our laps and we almost somersault with unbridled excitement! It seems like a done deal and while it lacks the excitement of exploring a new, unknown culture, a stone's throw from Hong Kong it gives us the opportunity to cling onto much of our old life. We happen to be in Macau on a weekend holiday so we snap pictures outside the half built hotel, daring to wonder if this will become a significant moment in our future. But our snaps end up being deleted. Macau is not where we belong. Our brief love affair is over. Then… just when I start to think we might be destined to remain in Hong Kong, along comes a place we realize we can't refuse. Oh yes, it seems the path to China is set in stone (or rather clay) and truthfully we almost sigh with relief at this point. Our new home is also home to those famous Terracotta Warriors.  Xi'an means Western Peace and is regarded as one of the fourth oldest cities in the world, along with Rome, Cairo and Athens, although I'm pretty sure it's not nearly as esteemed. But what I'm comforted by, is it has character and it has soul (and it's not the fourth furnace)! The odds are surely in my favour, there are direct flights to the Gold Coast and there's a Starbucks opposite the hotel. Xi'an, you had me at hello! Something tells me this is where the real expat journey begins….(thank god for those few Mandarin lessons….and thank you Beijing Mandarin for teaching me how to order a Mint Mocha in Mandarin today!) So, it's time to say 'thank you' Hong Kong. Thank you for showing me a life I could never have imagined in my wildest dreams. As excited about this new adventure as I am, I'm also slightly terrified! So stick with me, because I'll see you on the other side!   Pssst, i'm almost positive you'll have a very good picture of Xi'an by the time we leave, but here's a short video to give you a sneak preview.  Anyone interested in the Westin Xi'an.... this is what it looks like! … [Read more...]

Spoken Like a True Expat: Learning Chinese!

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What's the first question you ask Google madly, when you find out you're moving to another country? For me, "Do they speak my language?" is up there with the best of them!  And what's the one question I get asked by friends and acquaintances who now know I've moved overseas and immersed myself in the Orient?  How much Chinese can I speak?  Oh yes, that old chestnut; the expat's nemesis!  My answer usually involves my eyes quickly averting (shamefully) to the ground. I hear myself stammering,"umm, errrr not much I'm afraid - ok just taxi lingo - you know, Jik Hui, Lee Doe, N'goi (Go straight/Stop here, Thank you)!" Then I mutter something about not really needing to and how you can get by 'perfectly fine' in Hong Kong, without Chinese. Thank you very much! Repeat, Perfectly. Fine. Which is absolutely true! You can. (Tip: Head further north to the Mainland and you've got buckley's!) But, oh how there are those days, when I'd LOVE to know how to speak a little more of the native language rather than screeching at my seemingly impervious taxi driver, "Stop here!" (Sometimes with added expletives.) It seems the longer you live here, the LESS you try to learn and the less, it seems, you care! Expats are such a Laissez Faire bunch aren't they! When I first arrived in the frenzied financial hub of the East, I remember being mildly shocked that some friends had been living amongst the delectable Dim Sum and dazzling dancing dragons of Hong Kong for almost five years and yet knew little more Chinese than I did.  Huh? But how can that be, I pondered into my Jasmine tea (embracing my new oriental environment with a naive enthusiasm).   I frantically Googled where to learn Cantonese and then wondered if I should learn Mandarin instead? Or both! I won't survive here, without learning Chinese, I shuddered.  But all and sundry put me off…. Understandably, there's a gentle whiff of 'negative attitude' wafting through the expat air when it comes to embracing the native lingo. "You'll never be able to learn it unless you're forced to speak it," they implored. "You don't need it." "It's REALLY difficult." "Did you know there are tones. Four in Mandarin and NINE for Cantonese. Impossible!" And, "Have you seen those Chinese characters? Talk about complex." (FYI there are around 80,000 characters and to get through a Chinese newspaper,  you need to know about 3000! Woaahhh..) Copyright: simlik / 123RF Stock Photo One-fifth of the world's population, speak some form of Chinese as their first language.  Cantonese is primarily spoken in Hong Kong, but Mandarin (or Putonghua) is spoken on a more global level. In those early days not speaking the local language mattered to me. Sitting in a hair salon not being able to communicate exactly how I wanted my hair (first world problems) or ask the hairdresser where he lives (no I wasn't trying to stalk him, though he is cute). Getting my nails done while the 'girls' bantered in Chinese all around me (probably about the Gweilo and her insatiable demands) was frustrating! Catching a taxi, heading in the wrong direction, unable to tell the driver where I wanted to go was often torturous! The very idea of catching a cab with a new baby, alone, would have me sweating pools of water for days in advance!  While, many, many Hong Kongese speak English and speak it exceptionally well, for a lot of locals, it's limited to basic conversation level. If you want to get any deeper, you'll go round and round in circles and usually end up smiling politely, both parties none the wiser for your efforts.  I've given up trying to explain to my ever so lovely hairdresser, "I'd like a less 'gold' slightly more 'ash' tone through my hair and if you could just blow dry it without so much of the 'Bold and the Beautiful' volume, that'd be bonza mate!"  Our conversation is mostly limited to "Hi and how are you?" (Big toothy smiles.) "Are you busy?" With the odd (throw caution to the wind) chat about going on holidays (and more often than not, in the end realizing we are talking about two completely different places! What it's Yantian not Vietnam! Oh). As for the taxis, I now know enough about the geography to gesture madly or simply get out and walk…. and I know there are places to catch taxis and places to avoid!  As for the constant stream of Chinese conversations going on around me… these days as a more often than not brain dead sleep-deprived mother, I've come to appreciate it as a great opportunity to, quite frankly, tune out.    Thankfully, interpreting those incomprehensible characters is generally not required with most signs in Hong Kong in both English and Chinese, making for an incredibly easy city to navigate, sans the native language.  But…(there is always a but) whilst I'd long given up hope of learning anything remotely oriental to dazzle you with, my 3.5 year old daughter - who is now in nursery class at school - has two teachers, one who is solely mandarin speaking!  She's started coming home spouting off words, phrases and songs, supposedly in Chinese. Well, to be honest, it was that or gibberish and telling the difference for me, was nigh impossible! In fact, out to dinner one night, a friend pointed out to me, "You know she's counting to ten in Mandarin?"  "Say what!!?" At the parent-teacher interview (yes they do those for three year olds here) the Mandarin teacher was trying to explain Ava's progress IN Mandarin. Shoot!  And so…it began.  The Gods heard and clearly realized an intervention on my Chinglish was required. I ironically had some inquiries about collaborating on this very site with some local language schools and before I knew it, I was logging-in 'online' for my first ever lesson in Mandarin. I know, I'm just as baffled. SO…my original thoughts were to put myself through the paces, mainly in the name of #blog research (naturally with my curiosity levels piqued at just how hard it would be).  I'd do a few lessons in a few different formats to gauge the best learning tools and environments out there and regale you all with the best options for YOU. Honestly, I was a little anxious about the online classes, very skeptical about how well it could actually work. I didn't even really 'get' how it could. Some sort of course you loosely navigate your way through between bouts of lazy procrastination?  With Beijing Mandarin it was a case of being sent an email to join the class about ten minutes before. Being technically challenged I wasn't sure how I'd get myself in to the class (it's amazing what happens when you follow the instructions). Voila! I was in and there LIVE (just like Skype) was the sweet smiling Michelle - ready for action! We jumped straight into the Wo Shi Nicole and Ni Hao Ma?…. I thought it would be awkward, stilted and difficult to understand. Michelle had headphones on and suggested I get some too but reassuringly I've found it perfectly clear and easy to understand, without. (Don't want to ruin the hair-do, do we!) The classes are 45 minutes and I'll admit, they are intense. After my first one, my head was threatening to spin off my stiff and strained neck, in fact I needed a stiff drink! I don't think my brain had worked that hard since French in high school (no wait, French was my best subject, this was more like economics)!  But I was also elated. By the end of it I could say, "Hello, How are you? I'm very good thank you." The basic greetings and name all of my family members. (Even you Poppy!)  Of course, I'm not going to be able to sit down and rattle away, fluently in Chinese about the ins and outs of the current political climate; like any language I imagine, unless you are immersing yourself in the middle of said country, it's not going to be a sure thing …. but baby steps, are currently walking the talk.  I've even practiced Chinese with my girl AND mysteries have been unravelled! I finally realized the song she sings constantly around the house is the Chinese version of her end of the day "goodbye" song. Huzzah!  Progress! High fives all round sister!  Mind you, she did get a little over excited at practicing with mummy and started peppering her Wo Hen Hao's with "mintmochamusings dot com!" (Have I really brainwashed her to say that!?)  But in all seriousness, it's a win win - hopefully it helps refresh the little bits she's learning at school in her mind too. I even found myself chiming in smugly, saying "good bye" in Mandarin to the teacher!  Check me out, sista!! (Struts out of the classroom!) I also went to a group lesson. Ok, so definitely not feeling as smug out in the big wide world!! Live it China is an umbrella platform for all sorts of Chinese learning opportunities. They embrace many schools, including Beijing Mandarin and another called Celebrity Mandarin (you know how much I love a Hollywood theme) which is where I ended up one Thursday evening in downtown Central - oh yes, in the midst of a Mandarin Challenge!! (I registered the words "for the super ambitious" and clearly got a little carried away, imagining myself at this superior level!) Oh yes! They were beginners alright, but with quite a few more lessons tucked neatly under their celebrity belts, than I. We were talking tones, the time and full on 'round the table' fast and furious conversations. Did somebody say, "I'll have a round of cocktails please!" There is the small but persistent issue in Chinese of one word having many meanings, depending on the tone. They say it helps if you are musical. Unfortunately musical ability and I are about as compatible as chocolate and fruit. I was so obviously in another league, but with a clever and fantastically patient teacher and two capable and easy going class mates we battled through and I let my head inhale as much of the Chinese mother tongue as I could.  I emerged totally overwhelmed, but the adrenalin was pumping!   This challenge is three months of intensive 'one on one' lessons, group lessons and weekend catch ups with language partners. If you need to learn Chinese and learn it fast, this is the place for you! They are fun, friendly and first rate. As much as I'd like it to be the place for me, sadly at the moment, it's not….BUT with six lessons under my belt plus this liberating group lesson, I've realized it's not quite as daunting as I'd always anticipated. It's also (surprise surprise) rather enjoyable!  The best part is there are a limited number of sounds in Chinese. To give you an example, there are around 1200 syllables, where as in English there are over 8000! Chinese grammar also appears pretty straightforward. (Yep! You read that right.) Plus there's an amazing little thing called the Pinyin which converts the word into a phonetic spelling! Winning!!  So guess what? I have decided to continue with my lessons, albeit at a slightly slower, more measured pace, for now. (In future, I may hook up with a Language Partner to help with the progression and if I'm game, go back to a group lesson or three.) Whatever stage you're at, it's possible. Dare I say it, I am feeling empowered! (Just call me powerful Chinese dragon woman!) Stay tuned….I promise to keep you "posted" in all senses of the word (and characters...and tones)....  Pssst....if you see me on the street, promise you won't start conversing in Chinese. ;) If you're interested in stepping off the plank and learning Chinese with me, here are a few great places to start.  LIVE IT CHINA http://www.liveitchina.com/ BEIJING MANDARIN http://www.beijingmandarin.com/ CELEBRITY MANDARIN http://www.celebritymandarin.com/ FLUENT U   … [Read more...]