Mint Mocha Musings

The hotelier's wife: an expat affair around the globe

48 Hours in Xi’an: Top 5 Things To Do!

by

So, Xi'an is on your itinerary? In my mind, there are a couple of reasons you might find yourself in this second tier city in the middle of China. One: it's considered the undisputed root of Chinese civilisation one of China's oldest cities with enough history to rival a museum on steroids! Or two: you're taking pity on expats like me who need a sanity check in the shape of your visit (note: absolutely NO entry without cadbury chocolate bar in hand)! If it's the former, (bring chocolate anyway) your main focus is probably those blokes who make up that world-famous terra-cotta army, right? For most visitors, it's a quick stop over, usually after a whistle stop tour of Shanghai and Beijing. So, with time of the essence, I've put together a quick list to tick off, if you're just in town for a couple of days and don't want to miss the key things. Of course there are plenty of other 'interesting' things to see, but I'll save those for another day and a longer stay! 1) Terracotta Warriors  These guys are definitely a fascinating sight to see. I've seen them twice now and while I wouldn't probably recommend a third time, they are a once in a life time experience.  There's a compelling story behind their great unearthing, which you need to read all about here in my post before you set foot in the pits: Xian's Terracotta Warriors: The Largest Jigsaw in the World. Meantime, here are the details: Where are the Terracotta Warriors? This clay army of soldiers is, as you'd expect, quite a distance from the city itself in Lintong. To be precise it's 40 kilometres from Xi'an city or just over an hour from the airport, so be sure to work out your mode of transport in advance. (Xi'an is geographically a widespread city, so getting from one side to the other is not always easy. Friday and Saturday nights are mayhem on the roads!) (REPEAT: Mayhem!) How to get to the Terracotta Warriors: Take a Taxi (green ones only). From the airport, the cost is roughly RMB150-200. From the city, the cost is around RMB110-120 From the airport, you can also take the Airport Shuttle Line 2 to Xi'an Railway Station and then walk to the east square of the railway station to catch bus 914/ 915 or tourist line 5 (no. 306) to the warriors. There are also plenty of busses travelling from all parts of the city. Click here for specific details Or, if that all sounds a little daunting, alternatively most hotels can provide you with a car and driver for hire! Cost for the Terracotta Warriors: Peak season (aka the hot season) is March to November and the entry fee is RMB150 For Low season (aka the cold season) in December to February, the entry fee is RMB120 Kids under 1.2 metres tall are FREE. Opening Times at the Terracotta Warriors: Summer: Tickets sold from 8:30am to 5:00pm - last check int at 18:35pm Winter: Tickets Sold from 08:30am to 4:30pm - last check-in at 18:05pm Time to spend at the Warriors: I would suggest you put aside at least four hours including travel time. There are three 'pits' to view and while you can take as much or as little time as you choose checking these guys out, you probably need a good couple of hours, at least. Tips for the Warriors: *There's not much in the way of restaurants/cafes apart from a fairly basic cafe and a couple of quaint tea rooms, so it can't hurt to pack a lunch or eat beforehand, if you want to make it easy. *Strollers are available if you've got little ones who aren't keen to stay on their feet for the visit. There are also wheelchairs available. *There is a walk from the entrance to the pits, and let me tell you, if it's cold, you've got kids or elderly people with you, you want to grab the buggy. *It is helpful to have a tour guide to explain the history and in my humble opinion adds a lot more value to the trip. Hire one at the site for around RMB100 or your hotel should be able to recommend a good one. (Usually a little more expensive.) Or, alternatively rent an audio guide for RMB40. Extra Time: The Huaqing Palace Heritage/Hot Springs are six kilometres from the warrior site, set at the base of Mt Lishan for some stunning landscape views on a clear day. For more information, click here. About 150 metres from is here is the Lintong Museum which has about 10,000 artefacts dating from the Stone Age to modern times. 2) The City Wall This is a 13 kilometre stretch that, along with a moat, embraces the city. As the most complete city wall that has survived in China, as well being one of the largest ancient military defensive systems in the world, let me say, it is definitely worth heading into the city to see, even if you don't go up on to the wall itself. If you do choose to go up, you can walk around the wall (if you've got the stamina and time) or grab a tandem bike if it's a nice day (takes about two hours).  Otherwise the buggies are definitely the way to go and it gives you a great perspective of the city. Where is the City Wall?  Right in the city's hub. There are four gates leading through the wall into the city: North, South, East, West. Opening Times for the City Wall: South Gate: 8:00-22:00 East/North/West Gates: Summer: 8:00-19:00 Winter: 8:00-18:00  Cost for the City Wall: Tickets can be purchased at the bottom of the wall near the South Gate for 54RMB 27RMB for kids between 1.2 and 1,4 metres tall. Children under this height are FREE. Bike Cost: Deposit RMB200 Single Bike RMB40 for 100 minutes Tandem Bike RMB80 for 100 minutes Buggy Cost: RMB80 Time to spend at the City Wall: You can be up here for as little or as long as you want. Taking the buggy around is about one hour and it stops at each gate for ten minutes, so you can jump off and stretch your legs and admire the view. Tips for the City Wall: *There are very steep stairs leading up to the wall, so it's definitely not stroller friendly. *Unless it's a festive occasion with street food stalls set up, there is no food. Extra Time: Once you've done the wall….if time permits just below the wall at the South Gate is the Ancient Cultural Street of Shuyuanmen where you'll find quaint lane ways like something out of old Europe; markets sell all sorts of trinkets and beautiful calligraphy paintings. Defu Lane is also parallel to the wall at the South Gate and a popular haven for bar hopping. Warning: Don't expect a thriving bar scene, but it's an impressive spot at night. The South Gate is also close to both the Bell and Drum Towers. 3) Bell Tower/Drum Tower (Zhong Lou/Gu Lou) These two spectacles are right in the middle of the city and hard to miss. The Drum Tower erected in 1380 during the early Ming Dynasty towers over the city with excellent views. There is a huge drum inside that used to signal the end of the day.  If you want to, you can go inside and see the drum museum and a drum show, performed every day. The Bell Tower was built in 1384 and marks the geographical center of the ancient capital. From this important landmark branch out East, South, West and North Streets that connect the tower to the East, South, West and North Gates of the City Wall. The Bell Tower is the largest and best-preserved of its kind in China. Opening Times for the Bell/Drum Towers: Summer: (April 1st - October 25th) 8:30am - 21:30  Winter: (October 26 - March 31st) 8:30am - 18:00  Cost for the Bell/Drum Towers: Bell Tower: RMB35 Drum Tower RMB35 Bell/Drum Towers RMB50 Tips for the Bell/Drum Towers: *If you prefer to stand back and gaze at the towers from a distance, you'll still be glad you saw them. Take the time to stroll around the surrounding streets and soak up the atmosphere. *The city REALLY comes to life at night. Try to see it at least once under lights. 4) Muslim Quarter (Hui Min Street) Xi'an was the start of the famous Silk Road trading route when many merchants traveled from the middle east to trade and many of their descendants are still living in Xian today, making up a 60,000 strong muslim community in the city. Known as the 'Muslim Quarter' in English, the area is a colorful feast for both the eyes and tastebuds. A window into the Chinese-Muslim culture, it's a hive of activity covering several blocks where the tight knit community is busy around the clock, preparing a labyrinth of tasty sweet and savoury street food snacks, not to mention an overabundance of the city's famous elixir 'pomegranate juice!' With an electric atmosphere, you can't go past a visit to the Muslim Quarter. (Don't forget the camera!) Where is the Muslim Quarter:  In the heart of the city adjacent to the Drum Tower. Time to spend at the Muslim Quarter: You can meander through the bustling lane ways in about half an hour…. Cost for the Muslim Quarter: No cost, but take some cash for the street food. There are quite a few market stalls selling traditional souvenirs too. (Head down the side lane ways for more markets. Two words ladies: cheap handbags!) Tips for the Muslim Quarter: *Try to avoid going here on a weekend, it will be packed to the rafters!!! It's very hard to walk through (especially with a stroller) and much more pleasant on a quiet week day. (Definitely steer clear if it's any sort of festival or holiday!) *Don't forget to bargain if you're buying from the markets. *I am still not convinced the street food won't have you calling for the Lomitel or its equivalent, so eat at your own risk. But! (there's a but) I am told by locals, if it's going to be safe anywhere, it's here! Extra Time: Visit The Great Mosque for 15RMB. It's one of the oldest, largest (covering 12,o00 square metres) and best-preserved Islamic mosques in China. Just northwest of the Drum Tower on Huajue Lane. (*If you are in Muslim Quarter main street, there is a blue sign pointing to the Mosque about half way down.) Cost:  Summer: RMB 25  Winter: RMB 15 (Etiquette rules apply.) 5) Big Wild Goose Pagoda (Dayan Ta) Four kilometres south of the city, this is a buddhist pagoda built in the Tang Dynasty in 652 standing 64 metres high with views stretching out across the city. It was rebuilt in 704 with an extra five new storeys; however, a massive earthquake in 1556 heavily damaged the pagoda and reduced it by three stories, to its current height of seven stories. It's no Leaning Tower of Pisa but you're not seeing things, it does lean several degrees to the west.  In the past it was used to hold sutras and figurines of the Buddha that were brought to China from India by a Buddhist translator and traveller. In 2014 it was added to the World Heritage List.  Where is the Big Wild Goose Pagoda? QuJiang New District - about 20 minutes from the city on a good run. This area has been designed with tourists in mind! Set at the site of  the Daci'en Temple, the Pagoda stands tall amongst manicured gardens and paved squares where kites fly sky-high around the clock and 3-wheeler bicycles weave in and out of the crowds ferrying street food to passersby. There are several big shopping centres and a myriad of monuments to see amongst the tree-lined streets, not to mention the largest musical fountain in Asia. (I also know a great hotel across the road if you want to pop in.) ;) Opening Times for the Pagoda: 8:00 - 17:00 Cost for the Pagoda:  Daci'en Temple RMB50 Climbing the Pagoda RMB40 Tips for the Pagoda: *If you are in this area and want to catch a Tuk Tuk or take a cab, 10-15 minutes up the road is a huge scenic lake. (Qujiang Pool Park 曲江池遗址公园) It's a beautiful spot in Xi'an if the weather is on your side. Great for kids with plenty of bikes and paddle boats for hire (if you're game!). *Bar Street is just around the corner from the Pagoda. A stretch of cute cottage-like bars and restaurants, it's worth taking a stroll up the street at least. (The Indian on the corner and the German Beer Cafe are local favourites.) So there, you have it. That's Xi'an in 48 hours. See you when you get here! This is China.   For more on where to stay and what to eat in Xi'an - check out this post here I wrote for Hong Kong Moms.  http://www.hongkongmoms.com.hk/xian-terracotta-warriors-much/ … [Read more...]

Ever Wondered What an Ancient Chinese Village Looks Like? Of Course You Have…..

by

I've been trying to get out of the city for a sneak peek into a local Chinese village since we got here, seven months ago.  There's nothing quite like getting up close and personal with the locals in a new country. I like to get amongst it and smell the noodles roses.  Mind you, here in Xi'an,  you need to pick a day when you're up for the paparazzi to well and truly 'pap you! If you're feeling like a quiet, inconspicuous day with the family, this is not the time or place to do it. Trust me. With two 'blondies' in the family, clearly we are not going to fly under the radar, no matter how hard we try. To many locals, we are fair dinkum aliens with our pale skin, light wavy hair and 'big' noses! (Who said that!) So with some inside advice up our sleeves, we were told there was a good village to see just outside the city. About an hour's drive they said. (Clearly not taking into account one of the biggest festivals of the year Tomb Sweeping Day.)  Not to be dissuaded we got in the car with about 50-thousand other locals that day and made our way through the dense traffic to Ma Wei Yi village. As we sped along highways, slowed down through small towns and emerged in what looked to be the Chinese countryside, I had no idea what we were in for.   (Our driver for the day spoke zero English, so he couldn't enlighten us too much.)  "Are we there yet, are we there yet?" The small but shrill voice beside me, rang out.  The gap between cars was getting closer and given the unusual rain in Xi'an, the roads were pretty muddy and sloshy….drivers were getting stuck, left right and centre! Just quietly, it was quite amusing to watch. As we know, in Xi'an getting a driver's license is not exactly a brain-taxing affair and with the greatest respect, the driving is a little on the chaotic side. I looked up in the distance and saw.....much to my surprise, a Ferris Wheel. Let's be clear, it was no London Eye. But yes a giant, random Ferris Wheel…perched at the top of the hill, seemingly in the middle of nowhere.  Possibly a sign that humanity is close by? Cars were queuing by now….and the sole dirt road appeared to lead directly to the top of the hill.  We decided our best bet was to get out and walk. (After hastily scrambling around for the word 'walk' to communicate our intentions to the driver we jumped out gesturing to meet back at the same spot in a couple of hours). Wishing I'd bought my new gumboots, we trudged up the hill, through the mud with hundreds of others….and this is where the fun begins.  People all around us were having a good look at the 'waiguo ren' (foreigners) …some were slyly running ahead of us to snap a not so sneaky picture. People boldly reaching out to give Ava's blonde locks a little tug.  We passed little stalls with fairy wings, fancy balloons and whaddyaknow....fresh eggs. Once at the top, this. A Tudor-like entrance, Chinese style. Still not quite sure what to expect from this 'village'….we followed the mammoth crowds.  A little closer and we came face to face with the 'village' - a carpet of old oriental rooftops, flanking a long narrow alley stretched out before us. We ventured down the steep stairway, trying not to get pushed by the crowds…. and entered the village vortex. A hive of heaving bodies, all meandering through the old cobble stone streets amid a wash of brightly coloured lanterns and flags. The scene was for all intents and purposes like stepping back in time...(with some modern day crowd surfing for good measure!) Tiny kitchens and food stalls selling authentic Chinese food, were at every turn. Some had long bench tables outside, all filled to capacity with hungry locals, fervently slurping noodles and sipping soup, like there was no tomorrow. This is not quite the village I was imagining, but it was definitely full of fascinating flavours and colours.  Of course I draw the line at creatures like this on my plate! Tempted to 'people watch' for hours, if it wasn't quite so hazardous to stop and become the tourist attraction ourselves. Inside the little huts, ladies were weaving mats in traditional style and little pocket-sized museums were laden with ancient relics, even furniture. (Of course I'm not crafty at the best of times and to the elderly lady's dismay, broke the piece of cotton!) Out of the alley way and into a clearing….packed with more bodies roaming around on a sunny day …. there was the unmistakeable sound of a band on a stage…. Although perhaps not quite the bands we're used to. It sounded a little like a cat scratching a tin roof….a little closer and it wasn't not quite so bad…. the acoustics clearly lost on the ramshackle equipment. For your entertaining pleasure...I bring you this video!   Then.....if that wasn't bizarre enough, amidst the high-pitched 'performance', ancient rooftops, red lanterns and ancient rituals - a random, brightly colored theme park! It was like stumbling across something from a long lost era. The rides a little on the vintage side. But of course my 4 year old's face lit up. This is far more exciting than being squashed like sardines in a long forgotten Chinese food fair . My senses assaulted with a seventies throwback - the scene like something out of an old American movie intertwined with a backdrop from 'Breaking Bad.'  I later find out this is not in fact an ancient village but a work in progress.  A tourist haven built with a purpose. (The half constructed traditional Chinese-style huts kind of gave it away.) 51.8 million yuan has been invested into recreating an ancient inn culture in the shape of Ma Wei Folk Culture Village. The idea is to give locals and tourists the feeling they're stepping back in time ....to a place people populated around a thousand years ago. And while I'm not sure the kitschy theme park compliments this idea, it will definitely give you a taste of a bygone era.   I guess we'll save the real thing for another day.  This is China.  … [Read more...]

Forget Easter in China: It’s All About ‘Sweeping the Tomb!’

by

As a non-recovering chocoholic, I'll be frank, I am a tad disappointed the Easter Bunny does not visit China! That's not to say the Chinese Catholic Church and other Christian churches in Xi'an aren't acknowledging the religious significance of the occasion, but officially it's not a holiday, with the majority of Chinese recognizing the belief systems of Confucianism, Taoism or Buddhism. As for the glorified commercialisation of Easter, yes I'm talking about an abundance of eggs, namely the chocolate ones (ok and if you want to narrow it right down the 'creme' eggs in particular) well.. it's pretty low key, in Xi'an, to say the least!  There are no tasty chocolate eggs, wrapped in-oh-so shiny, brightly-colored wrapping paper, beckoning you from behind every counter, lining shop front windows or overflowing supermarket shelves.  Generally it's business as usual. No one is out scurrying through hedges on an easter egg hunt. Try not to feel sorry for me (although chocolate egg donations are most welcome)! Nonetheless, there is a celebration going on this Easter, right across Asia. And don't mind if I say, it's bigger than Ben Hur. It most definitely doesn't involve chocolate, but what it does involve is 'cold' food (of sorts), kites and well...dead people. It's called Tomb Sweeping Day or perhaps slightly more appealing, QingMing Festival, also known as Pure Brightness Festival, and it falls 107 days after the start of winter on the 4th or 5th of April, every year.  This auspicious date is one of the 24 solar terms….yes I had to look it up too. Basically, it's the Chinese lunisolar calendar which has 24 periods which governed agriculture in ancient China and still do today. Have a look here for a more in-depth description before I completely confuse you and myself. Around this date, temperatures begin to rise and rainfall increases - making it a crucial time for farmers. In March, the trees start returning to their lush green and pretty flowers are in blossom everywhere. After a dark and cold winter, it's like Xi'an has been given a facelift!  But as the name suggest it's not all about the weather and spring flings. It's predominantly a day to pay respect to the dead. Why? Well, legend has it...back in 770 BC a man named Jie Zitui was so loyal to his prince who was forced into exile, he literally cut a piece of meat from his own leg (yes, yes he did) to make soup, in order to save his hungry master.  Apparently the prince was reinstated nineteen years later and rewarded those who stayed loyal to him over the years, but completely forgot about poor old Jie Zitui!  Later reminded of Jie's loyal exploits, he felt so ashamed and decided to reward him. However, by this time, Jie had taken himself and his mother to hide up in the mountains. In order to find Jie, the prince ordered his servants to set fire around the mountain, to 'smoke' Jie out... unsurprisingly Jie was later found dead next to a willow tree. Filled with remorse, the prince ordered the day be forever known as 'Hanshi (Cold Food) Festival' - a day without fire which meant no cooking so only cold food could be eaten. It's been celebrated ever since and became a public holiday in mainland China in 2008. So, what does it involve? Basically, people go to clean the tombs of loved ones by pulling out the weeds and adding fresh soil. They also take the deceased loved one's favorite food and wine as an offering to them in the afterlife. (In Chinese culture, it is believed people still need to be provided for once they've passed.) Paper resembling 'spirit money' has long been burned as an offering to the deceased, along with paper clothes, cars and houses! In more recent times, tech-savvy youth are often giving replicas of iPhones, certain their ancestors would appreciate a far more modern gadget! (Perhaps not surprisingly this has led to a market for selling cheap replica iPhones and the like online, specifically for tomb sweeping day!) Just quietly, I think one might like a rest from technology in the afterlife?!  At the grave, the family members take turns to kowtow three to nine times (depending on the families' ties to traditional values). This Kowtowing ritual in front of the grave is performed in the order of patriarchal seniority within the family. After, the whole family sits down to feast on the food and drink they brought for the worship either at the site or in nearby gardens. In China, it's also believed people with weak constitutions won't cope eating cold, raw food on Qingming, when the weather is still quite cold, so in the past various activities were invented for building strength in the lead up to QingMing; like Chinese football, polo, willow-planting, tug-of-war, and rooster-fighting! Today, with cremation fast taking over from burials in China, Sweeping the Tomb has been simplified in many cities. More often than not it's flowers  presented to the dead relatives ....but no matter what, respect is shown and good prayers for the deceased must be expressed. Hence, there's also another modern trend emerging I know you'll love to hear about. Online stores are offering 'tomb sweeping packages!' Ah yes, too busy to mourn your loved one?…Hire a professional mourner to go in your place! (I kid you not!) (Want kowtowing and sobbing? Extra fees required!) ;) Flying kites is also part and parcel of the Qingming Festival and they come in all shapes and sizes, usually depicting animals or characters from the chinese opera. They're flown day and night often with little lanterns tied to them. Flying kites on this day is supposed to bring good luck because people cut the string while the kite's in the sky to let it fly free.  Don't be alarmed if you see people wearing a 'willow twig' on their heads - it's a nod to Jie and customary to keep the ghosts away. So, while the meaning of Easter, chocolate eggs and the bunny have very little significance for most people in China, here the people are still very much steeped in their own traditions and long-held rituals. No disrespect, but I'd still prefer chocolate eggs over cold cuts. This is China.   … [Read more...]

Six Months in China: What I Now Know!

by

High fives all round because it's not every day you get flung (some may say head first) into the middle of China with little more than your sense of (frazzled) humour!   Did I mention I had one pair of boots and a solitary jumper and winter was approaching much faster than I (clearly) anticipated! Ok, maybe I mentioned this (a few times).  Needless to say, I have survived a hardy north west winter that included minus temps most days and the occasional snow fall and I am here (with bells on) to tell the tale!  With tongue (ever so slightly) in cheek, here are a few quirky facts that I've come to learn about life in this spectacularly unique place, that may just surprise you. # The entire country and all of its 656 cities are on one time zone. (Yep for an Aussie, that's a little bit too straightforward.) # Many Chinese today still use cash rather than cards and tend to keep their cash in their safe at home as opposed to the bank.  # There is a "bureau" (government department) for almost everything, including an 'internet' department. # "Guanxi" is a very popular word. There are many things that cannot be done without "Guanxi" which means "relationship" which often translates into "money!" # You can have a second child in Xi'an IF you or your husband are an only child.  # Xi'an is not far from the desert, hence the dust! Trucks spray the roads with water several times a day (to the tune of "It's a Small World" no less). # Chinese don't do small talk. Plain and simple! Forget about "how are you?" and "Isn't it cold today?" or "Have a nice day!" Most Chinese people are not interested in your cheery, meaningless observations…..just zip it, OK!  # "Please" is not used much in the Chinese language and saying, "Thank you" too much implies you are not friends. (Good friends don't need to say thank you.) # Just 20 years ago, Xi'an was a very poor city with very little in the way of technology. There were no private cars on the roads. # Most Chinese in Xi'an today believe they have plenty of freedom, especially compared to the days of Chairman Mao, who's Communist Party governed until his death in 1976. # Driving on Xi'an's roads today is frenetic (and that's putting it politely). Despite this, there are very few accidents (oh, clearly I wrote this before the minor bingle we were involved in the other day.) I've reached the conclusion that Chinese people all drive terribly, well. # For a massive population of around 1.3 billion, there are surprisingly few surnames in use today. Statistics say there are around 4000 last names but the top ten are used by about 40 per cent of the population. (If you think about it, we all know someone with the surname Zhang, Huang, Wei, Wang and Wong don't we!) # The first 3 numbers of your phone number represent the phone company you're with. # Chinese very much respect the hierarchy in any situation, even if they don't agree. It's not easy for a Chinese person to reveal what they really think. # Sick babies in hospital will have an intravenous inserted in their forehead as opposed to other body parts.  # On March 15th, every year, regardless of the temperature the government turns the heating off. It's not switched back on until November 15th. Yep! Six months in, just a few small, random but intriguing facts about the world's fastest growing nation. This is China. … [Read more...]

Hong Kong Bucket List: What to Check Off, Before You Check Out

by

A Mint Mocha Musings collaboration with The HK HUB If you’re reading this, you probably don’t need convincing that Hong Kong is an absolute treasure trove of entertainment! That’s why we (not to mention the world) can’t get enough of this vibrant metropolis, right?If you’re an expat you’ve probably done your fair share of sight-seeing; playing tour guide to the myriad of family members and friends who’ve popped over to the orient for a taste of the Fragrant Harbour.  And I’m assuming you’ve done your best to partake in much of the city’s incredible offerings over the years?  But, just to be sure you haven’t missed a thing, we’ve put together a Hong Kong bucket list of everything you should do (at least once) before you leave the mighty Kong. Some of these things are the obvious like a night out at the Happy Valley Races, but you’d be surprised at how many people suddenly find their time in Hong Kong cut short, and are horrifyingly left with that feeling, there’s so much more to see! Don’t let that be you! As well as the obvious attractions, we’ve also got some of Hong Kong’s best kept secrets to share with you. Click over to THE HK HUB for my latest piece and over 50 amazing options.   You're welcome! ;) Pssst Want to know a secret? Tai O fishing village in the pic above is the one place I haven't been in Hong Kong, that I really want to see! Don't leave it off your bucket list!  … [Read more...]