In the space of a week, I found myself immersed in (and as always) eagerly trying to absorb the cultures of three very different Asian cities….Hong Kong, Bangkok and Manila. I still pinch myself and wonder how it is, I ended up roaming amongst the madness of these mighty metropolises. At first glance, each share a generic constitution, brandishing that dynamic energy and exotic makeup that is typically Asian. Get close enough though and you'll see cities that showcase multiple personalities on all fronts - rich in their own culture, each full of hidden gems and distinctively amazing food. Maybe that's what really makes them typically part of Asia - the world's largest and most populous continent - home to 4.3 billion people and hosting 60 per cent of the world's population….these are three cities in Asia forever evolving. What you first see is not always what you get. For me, these are places full of untapped adventure, eye-opening customs and intoxicating lifestyles and each possess a uniqueness that makes it a Pearl of the Orient in its own right. Bangkok, The City of Angels It was my first time in Bangkok and I was keen to experience the culture this 'City of Angels' had to offer. With a population pushing 11-million the Thai capital is reputed to be equally as colorful and quirky as Hong Kong, but with a slightly edgier and little less sophisticated side than the Fragrant Harbour. A quick two hour, fifty flight away, it was a mini holiday to this tropical hub, with my husband and our small person in tow. (Ok - really who am I kidding? No flight with a toddler is ever 'quick' is it!) But, fortunately for us, this meant with hotelier friends in the 'know,' we were staying in five-star style. Met off the plane (literally) and escorted through the airport and the VIP immigration gate at a rate faster than a Grand Prix winner, bundled into a hotel car (not quite of Grand Prix proportions) before I could blink, we were headed directly into the heart of the Land of Smiles. Now, I'm used to a pretty tight squeeze on the roads in Hong Kong, but it usually involves a swarm of iconic red taxis all fighting for space, criss-crossing in and out of each other's paths, all with less than a centimetre to spare. It's chaotic but generally, feels like well organized chaos. (And surprisingly there are very few road accidents.) But Bangkok! Bangkok is a different league of traffic chaos altogether, it's not organized, it's noisy and it's manic. Giant tourist coaches, busses, cars and taxis go head to head with tiny Tuk Tuks, scooters and the very brave on foot - attempting to push cart loads of goods through the middle of the traffic jams. Everyone is competing for a spot on the tightly congested roads, with little care for anyone or any thing who gets in their way. So as we made our way through what can only be described as a 'mishmash of humanity in all its glory,' I desperately tried to soak up every piece of this patch-worked pandemonium, which at first glance felt like driving through a giant version of steamy island neighbor Phuket (minus those azure blue beaches to give it that tropical-holiday feel). I smiled as I spotted the ubiquitous and bizarrely named 'Cabbages and Condoms' chain. Yep, we're in Thailand! As we passed pretty sizable, shiny shopping centres, all boasting the big luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Prada and Gucci, I thought of Hong Kong - then there were those globally recognized franchises like Maccas and Starbucks -- which well, make you think of everywhere. Then, juxtaposing these big names in complete contrast, row after row of street food stalls and colorful markets, literally 'open for business' on every spare patch of footpath, selling everything imaginable. While there's no doubt it's this diverse in Hong Kong, markets and street food stalls tend to be confined to their specific spots across the city. So, after the traffic frenzy and market mayhem, my immediate thought was the lack of skyscrapers in this busy downtown district - but (there's a but) I'm starting to realize, after living amongst the world's skyscraper capital for a decent period of time, no city, except perhaps New York, will ever seem quite as dense or concentrated - citified! But scratch beneath the surface of Bangkok just a little, and it's soon apparent that this is a city with a savvy and stylish scene of its own. Teeming with more Five Star sanctuaries than the average island paradise, you'll be spoilt for luxury choice….day spas, infinity pools and rooftop bars proudly overlook the Bangkok hustle and bustle, that stretches out before them. There are two sides to every city. In scenes not dissimilar to the rest of Asian society, it's a place where two worlds collide and extreme poverty is interspersed with overt wealth. Graceful temples stand proud, gleaming with glistening gold-tipped spires, while beggars prey on tourists just outside, desperate for a handout.…not unlike a scene I saw today at Hong Kong's busiest markets. A spot overflowing with tourists, a disfigured beggar sitting in the middle of the path, shaking his money tin, while people literally tripped over him to get by. It's a sad fact of life in most parts of the world and we were quickly reminded, no city is immune. In one such instance, walking the streets (admittedly a little lost) a little 'street boy' no bigger than Ava rushed at her, ripping her drink bottle from her hands, having a good old slurp before I was even able to register what was happening. Not stopping there, he attempted to unzip her Peppa Pig backpack hanging on the back of the stroller and when he was given the quick brush off, attempted to take a quick chunk out of her arm, before reaching for a plastic stool and taking aim. Not a happy camper! Needless to say we hightailed it out of there in disbelief. Not all Asian cities are alike when it comes to safety and while Hong Kong is regarded as one of the safest cities in the world, Bangkok (along with many others) have their dark sides. When you can walk many of the streets of Hong Kong alone at night, it's easy to become complacent, easy to forget a handbag in prominent view could be an easy target for shrewd thieves (many who use young children to distract naive parents) in broad daylight. As we made our way through the city, resolving to keep our wits about us, the adventures came thick and fast. In truth, it's what I love most about traveling to new, unexplored and exotic places. The adrenalin that courses through your veins, as you try to navigate unknown territory, all the while putting out that calm and confident exterior. 'Naive tourist, I am not!' (As my husband gets out the map to read in full view.) ;) Having lived and breathed Asia for over three years, it's fair to say, I no longer feel like a barefaced tourist in these cities, there is a touch of traveler's credibility comforting me as we stroll the streets or chug up the river on an old fishing boat filled with other tourists. I greet the scenes with as much fervor as I always have but also with a knowing familiarity of what lies beneath these oriental cities, that feel more like home to me, every day. But I'm also blatantly aware, I'm not and never will be a 'local.' We'll always be the 'Gweilo' family with a healthy dose of the unusual about us. An oddity amongst the masses, occasionally to be looked upon with sheer amusement. No matter how long you travel in Asia, you will always be in the spotlight of some intrigued locals. Admittedly, drawing attention to one's self is not an ideal plan of attack and if anyone was giving the game away in Bangkok, it turned out to be me (not my map-reading husband). Trying to jump from an old boat, packed to the rafters, on to a rickety jetty (in heels) as it unexpectedly motors away at high speed - not such a great way to remain low key. Nor is becoming a human roundabout for more than 100 scooters, with no concern whatsoever about roaring 'around' you on a busy highway. Rushing past within millimeters, I could literally feel the wind whip my cheeks! (If we were out of place before, at this point we were clearly on display in all our ignorant road-crossing glory!) Still, naivety aside, Bangkok is the Land of Smiles and the locals didn't disappoint. For the most part, it's a very friendly nation of super relaxed people with wide, toothy smiles, eager to please at every turn of our adventure. In fact, it's not unlike my other destination that very week, the Philippines. I've said it before on this blog, they are truly a people who radiate genuine warmth. It was no five star journey on this work trip to Manila but it was service with a smile all the way. Flying the nation's own airline, Cebu Airlines was a 'pile on board and go with the flow' affair, but the flight attendants never stopped smiling and the pilot even stepped outside of his cabin to bid his passengers goodbye in person. I don't think I've ever seen that happen in all my 'flying' adventures? Not such a tourist trap, Manila is a city facing many challenges. A lot grittier than both Hong Kong and Bangkok, it is one of Asia's fastest growing economies but in contrast, it is a city that's still steeped in poverty, with a distinct third world feel. It has some catching up to its counterparts to do but despite all of this country's setbacks, it keeps on keeping on. You can read more about my adventures in the Philippines here, here and here. One thing's for sure though, Asia travel, whether it's to Hong Kong, Bangkok or Manila -- each are cities that remain ensconced in strong tradition, yet are brushed with a modern twist. Not to mention that unmistakeable Asia smell. Step off the plane in any Asian city and you are hit with the instantly recognizable and distinctly local smells that waft through the streets, reminding you, you're in the East. The quintessential Asian city showcases a harmonious blend of the old with the new, where you can't help but be captivated by the energy that runs through these oriental pearls. Each city has allowed me the opportunity to enrich my understanding of these complex, diverse and charming cultures, where everyday holds the potential for a new adventure….the opportunity to feel alive! To me, that's priceless. What about you? Tell me your biggest Asian adventure? … [Read more...]
The Expat View: Why Traveling will Never be the Same.
Latest column for Expat Focus “There are no foreign lands. It is the traveler only who is foreign.” – Robert Louis Stevenson As an expat, my arrival in any country (these days) brings with it, the steely eyes of a super sleuth. The minute I step off the plane, I'm giving my holiday destination the once over! Judging, comparing, making rapid assumptions from the cleanliness of airport toilets, I'm sizing up the place for its 'liveability.' You see, living the expat life, almost every city has the potential to be your future home, which makes any foreign locality fair game. Who knows when or even IF, but as an hotelier's wife, there's ALWAYS a chance this unfamiliar neighbourhood will arrive on your radar at some point in time. We jumped on a plane and went for a mini-break to Thailand last weekend, a short two hour 40 minute flight from Hong Kong. It wasn't my first time in the Land of Smiles, but I was a virgin in the big city of Bangkok. I was excited to see what the so-called City of Angels had to offer. Stepping out from the airport, raising my sunglasses, I peered out at this populous city of 8-million that stretched before me. I'd barely scratched the surface of this vibrant metropolis but I was already shaking my head. “It's not Hong Kong,” I said under my breath. “Give it a chance” my inner voice retorted, sternly.When you're looking through expat lenses, it's hard to keep that raw, open mindedness a first-time traveler might feel in a new, unexplored and exotic environment. The butterflies give way to an anxious knot in the pit of your stomach. To read more, click here >>> … [Read more...]
Why Hong Kong’s Outliving the Rest of the World!
A couple of years ago, Hong Kong's life expectancy was the highest in the world!! Yep! The highest in the world! On average, a dim-sum-dining local was destined to rack up 83.42 years! Not a bad effort, given worldwide, the average life expectancy at birth was 67.88 years. And just in case you didn't know, women on average live longer than men in most countries, besides Tuvalu, Tonga, Kuwait and Qatar. In 2012, Hong Kong women surpassed Japanese women in life expectancy rates for the first time in 26 years. The grand figure - 86.7 years! So naturally, these highflying milestones got me thinking, what's so special about Hong Kong? (Particularly given this newspaper report out, lamenting air pollution as the leading cause of cancer.) Asia's WORLD CITY it may be, but to use a really old quote by Benjamin Franklin, "just as the only things certain in life are death and taxes"….you can also be pretty certain there's pollution in Hong Kong, by the truck load. As enchanted as I am with the Fragrant Harbour, there are many days where it's not quite so fragrant. Pollution here is a serious issue with visibility less than eight kilometres for 30 per cent of the year, which of course attracts its fair share of unwanted attention from around the globe. With seven million people living in extremely close proximity (think sardine-like existences), 200-thousand red taxis trawling the roads and giant coal-fired power stations nearby, not to mention the tens of thousands of factories in neighbouring Mainland China puffing out their fumes, is it any wonder? And let's not forget the ever increasing gap between the city's rich and poor! On the surface, it doesn't bode well for the average citizen to live a long healthy life, or does it? I'm not going to harp on about the inequality or the pollution predicament….you can read more about it here though (if you so desire) in this previous post 50 Shades of Hong Kong Grey or in this post on Hong Kong, a City of Contradictions. Today, I want to talk about why Hong Kong is one of the healthiest places to live, on the planet! What are these people inhaling besides pollution and fumes from a lot of very fast cars? Having skulked around these parts for a few years now, I've got a few good theories of my own going on (aside from those obvious ones the government likes to tout, such as a low birth rate and better medical treatment). Of course the Chinese have a civilization that stems back thousands of years, so they've naturally had the upper hand when it comes to unravelling the mystery of longevity. The saying goes, 'if a man in China dies before 90, other people treat the death as early and tragic.' I'm guessing that means you're still a spring chicken until at least 70! Experts say there's no one single elixir, but perhaps it's a healthy combination of the following? First things first, let's talk about DIET. One of the things that's quite obvious when you arrive in Hong Kong is the small fact there are very few 'big' people. To see someone who is overweight is a rarity, in fact, it's such an anomaly, you can't help but make comparisons with the western world when you do (let's face it, these days to be obese, for a lot of people, is becoming the norm). A report on obesity which put the US at the top and Australia 4th, has ranked Hong Kong so far down, it's not even listed. So what do we attribute this to? It's no secret Asians like rice. A LOT of rice! Ask anyone outside of Asia to name what they eat in the far East and you'll get rice, noodles and the obligatory dim sum. Nearly all of the protein Chinese consume is from plant sources, while 70% of what Americans eat comes from meat products. The simple facts are - heart disease and cancer cases in the US vastly outnumber those in China. I'm starting to wonder if aside from oodles amounts of noodles, steamed fish, vegies, rice and congee -- if the ingredients to long life also include things like drinking water warm instead of cold (which admittedly took me a couple of years to come to terms with) along with copious amounts of herbal tea and when I say copious I mean non-stop. Locals believe during a meal, your tea cup should never be empty. (Which just quietly makes for an awful lot of bathroom stops.) Salt and sugar is rarely used in authentic Chinese cooking and carbs like bread and potatoes, limited. If you're from the West, you may even notice the local's 'sweet tooth' is diluted. Sure they are partial to a cake or dessert as much as the next person, but as a non-recovering chocoholic, I've gotta say, sweets 'round here are lacking a serious sugar hit! But it looks like they're having the last laugh - their unsweetened palates working in their flavour favour. It's not just about the food either, Chinese are quite specific about their utensils. Enter the ubiquitous chopsticks and porcelain spoons. Ancient mythology claims knives, cleavers and forks are to be left in the kitchen in case they undermine the fact that Chinese cooking is meant to be 'humanizing' as opposed to 'brutish' (not that I'm one to eat dinner with a meat cleaver). Anyway, brutal utensils aside, all this brings me to Yin & Yang. Black and White, Positive and Negative, Masculine and Feminine, the Chinese firmly believe ALL of life involves balancing these opposing forces. When it comes to food, Yin favors feminine, damp, mild and cool elements while Yang is bright, masculine, dry and strong. It's thought an imbalance of the two (natural "heat" and "cold" in the body) can cause disease or make you more conducive towards sickness. So if you're getting a cold, when most of us in the Western world reach for a packet of Codral, here it's all about miso soup with hot ginger... (at the very least you'll be offered a glass of warm water). Of course treating a cold or fever with a hot cup of chicken soup is an ancient and time honored tradition the world over, but Chinese believe certain soup has special healing powers. Take Bird's Nest Soup for example, it improves libido and digestion, alleviates asthma and increases focus, not to mention its overall benefit to the immune system and it gives you glowing skin (who needs beauty potions). And let's be real, how often do you see an Asian person with wrinkles? Like, almost never! (Trust me on this, I've observed!) Other foods like Abalone shell fish are not only a status symbol but said to be an adjunct therapy for cancer and a brightener and healer for the eyes, increase appetite and a health food for the liver and kidneys. Eczema sufferers will be warned to stay right away from garlic; Chinese black mushrooms eaten to help lower blood pressure and it goes on....for more on chinese food and traditions, check out my post Date with Destiny. There's even a saying from Chinese philosopher, Lao Tzu. ”The best physicians always treat disease when it is not [yet] a disease And so [their patients] are not ill. So it seems the Chinese diet isn't doing any harm in the health stakes…..but we all know Hong Kong is without a shred of doubt, a frenzied and fast paced city that never sleeps. To many, living in Hong Kong is perceived as a stressful way of life. How do you stay calm amongst the madness of a city with multiple personalities? A quick look out my window before 7am and it's not uncommon to see people well into their seventies and eighties doing this... Every morning in parks and gardens around the city, you'll see the slow moving, martial arts tradition of Tai Chi being practiced in earnest. To be honest, to my untrained eye, this activity executed at snail's pace has never looked all that 'physical,' but alas, these ancient and fluid movements are said to help balance the body’s internal yin and yang, doing as much for the mind and soul as for the body boosting cardiovascular strength. With no statutory retirement age it's also uncommon for locals to retire before the age of 70 or 80. This is often because with no pension they're forced to earn a living, but maybe it's also a case of "what doesn't kill you makes you stronger!' Hong Kong and much of Asia has a culture that doesn't mind women carrying the load, physically and literally. It's not unusual to see older women pushing extremely heavy loads through the city streets or hard at work on construction sites. As tough as it looks, these women are as tough as nails! Hong Kong's senior citizens also love a bit of socializing, even if it's just playing the centuries old tile game Mahjong down a side alleyway or out the back of many restaurants or shops (possibly in the same spot for 20 years). Ageing experts say the mentally stimulating tile game can help delay dementia by stimulating parts of the brain that controls memory and cognitive abilities. You can't accuse the Chinese of leading a sedentary lifestyle. I also believe family ties, which are rich here in the Kong, play into the longevity equation. Family comes first and foremost (whether you like it or not) and it's not uncommon for up to three or four generations to live under the one roof. Family care and support is crucial with Nursing home/Retirement Villages not an option for the elderly who (in general) are held in high regard by younger family members. Many studies have pointed to the fact that people who live alone die sooner. Here's the other thing, while Hong Kong has an extremely intense work ethic - six days a week, 16 hours a day….I suspect, maybe they're combatting the stress with a little nap here and there. It's not uncommon to see this....in public areas, a lot. There's also talk that such high density living has its plus side. Experts say the skyscraper island offers a balance of the fast paced with the super convenient. Transport is slick, easy and cheap; shopping malls are underneath most high rises (which also takes care of the social side of life) and the shorter traveling time across the city which geographically has a small land mass of just over 1100 square km, allows Hong Kong people to carry out their daily activities with ease, thereby keeping them relatively healthy and quite possibly, low and behold, cheerful! There is a great maze of pedestrian walkways across the top of busy highways and with walking one of the main modes of transport, it helps make it less stressful. It's not uncommon for most people to walk one or two kilometres a day (at least) and the walking pace is oh so much faster. This I can vouch for, having become an avid street walker myself (in the best sense of the term). Like they say, a rolling stone gathers no moss! Unlike countries such as Australia, where we have a love-hate relationship with the sun, Chinese people aren't big fans of Mr Golden Sun. Preferring the paler look over the beach-bronzed goddess, they (sensibly) use umbrellas to shade themselves, even just walking down the street (which can make the fast paced street-march a tad difficult if you want to avoid a poke in the eye) and you'll often find locals scurrying to the pool or beach once the sun goes down. No sun-worshippers here! (Which also means, NO wrinkles or skin cancer!) Somebody bring me some birds nest soup and an umbrella! I'm also beginning to wonder just how much Feng Shui has to answer for in the longevity books. According to 'experts' on the matter - having good Feng Shui is all about trying to create harmony and balance in your home or office. It is the practice of arranging your environment so that energy or “chi” flows gently and smoothly through your environment. If it's not balanced just right, you could very well experience problems with your health, relationships, money or children. Beds, mirrors, even doors in the wrong place can cause all sense of havoc. Not even my husband can escape good Feng Shui in his work environment, with experts regularly visiting to "sort" out hotel space, not to mention his office! (A vase with water strategically added here, a blind pulled down here to stop the luck escaping out the glass window - in the world of Feng Shui, believe you me, you can't afford to get it wrong.) The humble tortoise is considered a symbol of longevity, thus its presence in any shape or form is coveted by many people who wish to live long, healthy lives. If it's a live tortoise, even better, it will ensure the family lives to a ripe old age! So in this global junction where east meets west, perhaps it's time to take a (herbal) leaf out of the Chinese book of life! Tai Chi, a tortoise, a cup of tea and a public nap....anyone? *Just for the record, according to the latest release of CIA's World Factbook, the world's longest living people are currently found in Monaco, with an average age of 89.5 years. … [Read more...]
Moving to Hong Kong – 10 things you shouldn’t leave home without!
Latest column for Expat Focus When you get the call to uproot your life and relocate to a new, foreign country, the shellshock of packing up your ‘life as you know it’ and heading into the unknown abyss, is more often than not followed by a fast and furious ‘Google’ of the new ‘home’ in question. First things first: Location: Check! (Yes it is right where you thought on the map; or Surprise! who knew it was so close to Timbuktu!?) Population: Check! (Mighty important to know what you’re dealing with here - are you one of hundreds, thousands or millions?) Language: Check! (Just how much brainpower is this assignment going to require?) So, with the basics ticked off - you’re in business. Next on the relocation agenda, the things that make your world turn - jobs, real estate, schools, medical facilities and supermarkets. If you’re a couple making the move into the expat world, usually one of you gets the job of heading into uncharted waters first and it’s usually the one with the new job. For us, it was my Hotelier husband, who arrived cold turkey in Asia’s World City. We’d both had a brief taste of the city that never sleeps in a past life but for all intents and purposes, those trips (for me) were about shopping, eating and sightseeing, not so much focused on the unknown fact that my future might involve living amongst the madness that is Asia’s Manhattan. For more click here >>> … [Read more...]
Is Online Shopping the New Black?
We're among friends right? Depending on how well you know me, you may or may not know, that I'm partial to a good shopping spree. (Runs in the family!) In fact it doesn't even have to be a 'spree' so to speak. I'm pretty chuffed when I come away with a solitary carry bag bearing my latest purchase or two. I get that giddy, smug, "I have bargain, hear me roar" excitability; an extra spring in my step (which definitely helps with the stroller pushing and the sanity - the site of that branded shopping bag swinging merrily off the hooks, while your toddler squawks about one more trip to the playground). The shopping buzz! With one in four women classified 'shopaholics' I know what some of you might be thinking - this girl's got a small addiction to all things shiny and new - get her to a therapist's chair! … [Read more...]
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