You know the feeling when you visit a city you've never seen before? That dizzying anticipation, the unbridled excitement, the curiosity and wonder of what lies ahead? Well, can I just say - for the record - arriving in a city you've never seen before to live, is nothing like that! Ok, so maybe that's a little over the top. The lead up to moving to Xi'an, China was like that, but actually arriving in one of the world's oldest cities, home to eight and a half million people (the 12th largest city in China), I won't lie - my heart was in my mouth. It's a short two and a half hour flight from Hong Kong, but it also feels a world away in north western China. As we disembarked and entered the airport, my stomach was in knots, as I tried desperately to keep an open mind, at the ready to embrace our new home! I foolishly found myself comparing right off the bat. (Bad move!) The airport was significantly smaller than I'd expected for such a massive city and ever so slightly primitive (of course this is compared to Hong Kong's modern, state of the art, award-winning complex)! I later found out all entrants from Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan (China's SARS) come to their own individual terminal, so what I glimpsed was just a minuscule part of the largest airport in the north west! I could feel myself ever so tentatively putting one foot in front of the other as I literally stepped into my new life, in one of China's 656 cities, no less! Driving from the airport was at best 'underwhelming' (apart from driving on the wrong side of the road) it was raining and grey as we sped through a maze of highways and concrete; a deluge of chinese characters beaming out at me in their neon, indecipherable glory! I'm not deeply religious but it was about now I silently had a word to God, hoping James wasn't having a moment of serious delusion when he'd excitedly told me the city was really "quite nice." Meantime, our little blondie Ava was oblivious in all her three year old naivety; her primary concern on the journey, the delightful hotel gift of rainbow-coloured macaroons and how many she could eat in one go! Oh to be so innocent. Approaching the hotel, my spirits lifted… despite the incessant rain, leafy green streets splayed out in front of me and there was a distinct buzz of activity with restaurants, bright lights and traffic mayhem! (We may be in Central China, but it was a comforting sign, I wasn't in the middle of no where, even if I was hanging on for dear life!) The hotel was impressive - it's four stories though, the 'chalk' to the W Hong Kong's 76 story 'cheese.' My grand entry somewhat stifled as Ava's prized macaroons promptly fell out of the car onto the wet hotel driveway and a toddler meltdown ensued. Welcome to Xi'an! We quickly dropped our bags off in what would be our home for the next few weeks (until the hotel residences are finished). A suite that can only be described as embracing the typical minimalist Westin decor brushed with an enchanting oriental flair! With James likely to be bunkered down in his new GM role the next day year, we went for a quick scoot around the hotel to acclimatize ourselves with our new 'home.' We probably could've done with scooters because it's ahem, bloody huge. Unlike Hong Kong, space is no issue here in Xi'an and it's spread out, from a luxurious Lobby Bar, to an intriguing museum (yes, Xi'an being one of the four oldest civilizations in the world means, monuments, relics and artifacts are scattered everywhere, even below this hotel!) - to a grand sunken garden swathed in red cloth. (It's lucky my favorite colour is red, because this hotel is literally bathed in a glow of deep red!) To the beckoning cake shop, the three very different restaurants, Chinese, Japanese and Western….and the (wait for it) Rolls Royce show room! (Ahem just quietly the owner has sold 70 of these babies in just two years! Oh how the Chinese looove their luxury!) So, let the week begin. I think I probably spent 24 hours in a 'blur of speechlessness.' It's fair to say the first week is probably the hardest when you move to a new country. I know I bandy about the term 'culture shock' on this blog on a pretty regular basis, but over four years in HK, even I had forgotten what it's really like. Really like to wake up and your husband is at work and you are staring out from your hotel window into the absolute unknown (rain not helping your imagination) it all seems quite surreal. This is your new life and you know not a single soul. There's no routine, no familiarity, you can't order a comforting Mint Mocha or get a blow dry because you can't find the relevant words and even when you do, they can't understand you. You don't even know what's across the road. It's a new beginning on almost every level. And I won't lie, it's bloody scary. Forget being a big fish in a small pond - you're a tadpole in a giant ocean! For the first few days and beyond, tears sit just below the surface, threatening to spill over at a moment's notice, but then you pull yourself together because you know it's not the end of the world and there is a big adventure that you have been waiting for, wanting for! All I can say, is thank God for technology, even if it is slow and more than slightly intermittent (and I may be on the verge of throwing laptop out the window), Facebook, What's App, Twitter, Email all allow you to stay connected (loosely) with friends, family and familiar faces. You'll be amazed at how comforting it is to know online, nothing has changed. (Thanks to a VPN of course.) What's a VPN? In layman's terms, it's a service you pay for monthly that allows you to download an app which makes it look like you are in another country so you can bypass security blocks and access the likes of Google, Facebook, even my own blog (all banned in China). So deep breaths all round, the key to being in a new city, is to get out! So once the rain calmed, first stop - the shopping centre directly across the road; a very westernized Starbucks with all staff speaking reasonably good English (no Mint Mochas though), a peek at the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, you really can't miss. This is what this area's all about and it's what tourists from around the globe flock to look at. A roam around the streets, laced with green trees, striking monuments and waterfalls….it's a little European infused with traditional Chinese architecture. On the way back from another local shopping centre (thankfully sporting Zara and a kid's playroom worth it's weight in gold) I spy a street called 'Bar Street' that we eagerly try out a few nights later. A quirky cobblestoned street reminiscent of a Phuket or Bali or even Melbourne with cute, cottage like bars, side by side…live music, humming with people. A day in the heart of the city, we explore the city centre with the world famous Bell Tower and the ancient city wall - a 14 square kilometre cobble-stoned wall that you can cycle along on tandem bikes or do it the lazy way we did (this time) and jump on a golf buggy and hurtle around the historic fortress looking out across a sprawling city. **Quick Fact: It's the most complete city wall that's survived in China and the one of the largest ancient military defensive systems in the world! We stumble across quaint markets down idyllic lane ways not unlike a slice of Europe with fascinating artwork and oriental trinkets on display. So far, Xi'an is well and truly surprising us on every level….and slowly but surely it's about putting the pieces together. Working out which way is up. (Map reading is not my strong point!) You start to recognize the occasional landmark, hotel faces, and even more importantly remember a phrase or two of mandarin. Nevermind, that I told the housekeeper to come back to clean the room at 13 o'clock. Better luck next time eh? So a week in, it's been tough and more than likely to get tougher, but it's also the beginning of a once in a lifetime adventure, we'll certainly never forget. She chants the mantra, 'one foot in front of the other……' Proud to share this post over on Seychelle Mama's site for her series #MyExpatFamily … [Read more...]
It Takes a Small Village to Raise a Child in a Big City
It’s four days out from the big C (the “big C" being our imminent move to Central China). As you'd expect, I'm rushing around like the undoubtedly mad woman that I am, ticking off a ‘to do’ list longer than the Great Wall of China. Admittedly a lot of it involves ‘maintenance’ - all in preparation for a potential lack of hairdressers able to colour blonde hair or my inability to track down a decent manicurist. (First world problems of course!) Then there are the trips to my local GP to stock up on medication for those unexpected illnesses and of course buying more panadol, deodorant and toothpaste than you can poke a proverbial stick at. (My husband keeps reminding me, we are not actually going to prison, but I'm choosing to go with the Girl Scout motto that is, "Be Prepared!") So when I'm not out buying in bulk, I'm staring into space (which mostly involves looking at a somewhat spectacular view of Hong Kong’s strapping skyscrapers, rolling mountains and sparkling seas) wrapped in a million memories, mourning this chapter that's coming to a close. It's always a weird feeling between moves. Stuck in limbo...not quite part of your old life, and yet not belonging in your future life. I will soon be staring out at a giant Wild Goose Pagoda. (Yes I can feel your sympathetic but slightly amused smirk from here.) My husband has already arrived in Xi’an. He’s been there for over a week and barely surfaced for air! Meantime, I sit here, desperate for him to throw me a bone, on life in the ancient capital. Amongst his own madness that is running a new hotel he knows little about, he’s thankfully thrown me a few morsels, mostly some grainy photos showcasing the surprisingly buzzing tourist area (including giant Pagoda) where we will make our home; informed me of the smoke-free hotel car (not always a given) with its English speaking driver; and illustrated the wide, leafy streets and his relief at the displays of English signage. Oh and the space. Coming from a place where space is like a prized cow at a fairground, I’ve gotta say, this is quite exciting. And let's not forget the pictures of Starbucks across the road! Priorities!! Still, I'm anxiously twiddling my thumbs, wondering what to expect, really expect! My heart pounds nervously as I scour Facebook pages on life in China, naturally Xi’an in particular. (Yes, encouragingly there are Facebook groups, even if Facebook is banned in China.) Naturally in between all of this I am frantically farewelling my butt off. (I can wish.) In between stocking piling supplies and gazing longingly at Hong Kong, I'm squeezing in afternoon teas at posh hotels, dinners at iconic city spots and foot massages in true oriental style, all with a bevy of warm and witty women I like to call 'my village.' Having arrived in the Fragrant Harbour four years ago, well and truly preggars, I missed out on the compulsory Hong Kong induction, that largely involves wild days on Junks and long nights in Lan Kwai Fong, where jelly shots rule the streets and you don't emerge until daylight beckons. I’ll admit, a part of me (clearly a much younger version of me) was ever so slightly disappointed… but I’ve managed to make up for it in other ways. (Ever tried Jelly shots at home!) Amongst the sleepless nights and coffee-fuelled days spent in a haze, as a first-time mother in a foreign country, believe it or not, I’ve managed to get Ava to the ripe old age of 3.5 without having her choke on chicken's feet or poke herself in the eye with a chopstick. Winning! Now as I go about my daily life, stopping to say goodbye to the people who’ve punctuated our lives, the phrase ‘It takes a small village to raise a child’ echoes in my mind. We might just be tiny specks in a bustling, fast and furious city of seven million people, but raising a child hasn’t been done alone. From our good friends on the block, to my invaluable helper (nanny) who has helped us on far too many levels to count from day dot; to Ava’s little pre-school downstairs where the teachers have treated us like family and are without hesitation throwing my girl a farewell party; to the local dry cleaners who’ve been giving Ava a lollipop every single visit, since well, well before she had teeth! It's these regular faces that make our world go round. There's also the W hotel’s warm and generous staff, who've constantly showered Ava with love, attention and unexpected gifts of kindness; the Starbucks staff who make my much-required Mint Mocha before I’ve even hit the counter and the ladies who've been scoping out a seat for us in the crowded coffee shop, since Ava was barely a week old….. there were the ladies in the clothes shop opposite who entertained Ava (or perhaps it was the other way around) while I took a brief sanity break, inhaling my coffee at high speed. There's the concierge staff downstairs in our apartment block who high-five Ava every single morning on the way out (even if she is going through the “don’t look at me, don’t talk to me" grumpy toddler phase); the security guards at the gate who make sure she gets across the road safely with a smile; to the ladies in the supermarket who’ve chatted to her enthusiastically in Cantonese every Saturday morning since the beginning when she'd toddle in with daddy, usually, unintentionally sending the fruit and veges rolling down the isle. The myriad of friendly Filipino helpers who wave and call out to Ava wherever we go in our ‘hood. (I'm constantly surprised at the number of people my blondie actually knows.) This has been our small village, well and truly alive amongst the madness of Asia's World City... and for that, I’m forever grateful. I can only hope we will encounter some of the kindness this village has shown us, in Xi’an, China....where another city of 8-million awaits. Do you have a village in an unexpected place, that gets you through your daily life? Tell me! Psssst... If you want to keep up to date with the latest from China, and you haven't already, make sure you subscribe to the blog. Click here.. … [Read more...]
The Expat Club: The Membership that’s for Life
As many of you know, our departure from the frenzy of bright lights, burgeoning buildings and bustling bodies that make up the metropolis of Hong Kong, is imminent. While I can’t deny I've fallen madly in love with this city, in truth, I've always known the toughest goodbye wouldn’t be to Hong Kong itself, but to my family, my 'expat' family.When you're in a foreign country, devoid of all things familiar - from the language, to the landscape, culture and climate; not to mention your community, friends and loved ones, you reach out (clutch desperately) to those like-minded souls walking the same path as you. I've long realized just how important these people from all walks of life, strolling (or quite possibly, running) alongside us in our new life have come to be, but it was a few months ago when it really hit home, just how pivotal the expat connection becomes to your daily existence. For more, click over to Expat Focus for my full column here... … [Read more...]
Let Asia Entertain You! **GIVEAWAY** ENTER HERE!
***Competition now closed*** A huge congratulations to all our fabulous winners and thanks to everyone who took part! Mint Mocha Musings GIFT to YOU! Enter to WIN. It's been awhile since I've had my hands on one of these babies! Back in the day in Sydney I was an Entertainer book convert, eagerly purchasing a new one with each new year that rolled around. What's not to love! With a 'Buy One Get One Free' concept applying to all your favourite things - whether it be the city's hottest restaurants, night spots, cafes, attractions, spas or salons the Entertainer is your one stop shop! So, I won't harp on about its merits, all I can say is the Entertainer has found me in Hong Kong and I'm hooked....as well as potentially saving you thousands of dollars, it's the perfect opportunity to get you doing things you might otherwise pass up. If you want a sneak preview of what's on offer, check out the Entertainer website here! Clearly things have progressed since I last owned one of these bibles, because now there's also an app!! You can either purchase it on your smartphone or stick with the hard copy in book form. I'm a bit slow to catch on to new technology but I can definitely vouch for the app. Easy to download and even easier to use. I've been out and about ordering two for one Mint Mochas all over town! Now, here's the exciting bit....usually these babies cost about HK$595, but guess what? I've got a surprise for you! As loyal Mint Mocha Musings friends, all you need to do is enter you details below and you are automatically in the draw to win one of 15 Entertainer books.YES! I've got 15 to give away! Even better, the choice is yours, either the Entertainer Hong Kong, Entertainer Singapore or Entertainer Malaysia. Bonus! You don't need to live in any of these places to use the book....heading to one of these destinations for a holiday any time soon? How handy would it be to have one these? Think of it as your key to the city! OK, it's easy, enter below and WIN! a Rafflecopter giveaway … [Read more...]
Beyond the Five Star Gates, Poverty Knocks!
As we gear ourselves up to embark on our second expat gig; unlike last time, when we moved to Hong Kong - this time two have become three! Moving to China is not just about James' new job and mum's unbridled enthusiasm for adventure, it's also about the small person amongst us and what it means for her. Too small to understand the complexities of why we are moving to a different city, but big enough to know we must live away from family for the immediate future. Old enough to know daddy works in hotels, but too young to know not everyone can walk into a five star hotel and instantly have staff running to get you chocolate ice cream with sprinkles on top! There's no denying an expat life for kids is a lark! Travel, exotic experiences and more often than not, nannies at their beck and call. Throw in 5-Star shenanigans and it's plenty of poolside pampering, fancy food and hand-picked presents perfectly placed on your holiday 'heavenly' bed. This next gig will have us living IN the hotel...(not to mention in a city where blondies are looked upon with sheer wonder and amusement, especially pint-sized ones). So you can imagine, I am keen to make sure my little "Third Culture Kid" (yes that is a fair dinkum term) doesn't become too accustomed to the finer things in life at the click of her chubby fingers. (Of course, these rules need not apply to Mint Mocha-swilling mummies.) In all seriousness though, as we immerse ourselves into a life where untold luxury is at our fingertips - a life where groceries are supplied by the hotel chef, a driver takes us to our each and every destination and housekeepers keep our things in order, there's never been a more crucial time to remind ourselves that we must not become immune to the hardships of the world. A great reminder came just recently via my dad, who went to a work conference in Fiji. Just a short three hour flight from Australia, it was his first time to the neighbouring pacific island. After a few days in the popular tourist haven, he sent an email which sent goose bumps prickling all over my body....and was a stark reminder that in many, many countries right across the globe, usually not too far beyond the five star gates, lies a parallel universe, one that's more often than not steeped in poverty. This tiny paradise on Australia's doorstep, was no exception. In Fiji, 250,000 people live in poverty. Forget five star feasts, facials, foot massages and frolicking in paradise, beyond the palm fringed beaches, its back to the bare basics... and in these traditional island villages life is all about the three F's - family, farming and fishing. What my dad experienced reminded me very much of my trip to Kenya, Africa in 2007...perhaps it's why the story resonates so well with me. After volunteering at an orphanage in rural Kenya we travelled south to the Mombasa coast. A postcard-picture perfect beach was flanked with leisure laden pockets of paradise, while a stone's throw away, locals lived in mud homes without power. To me, this email captures a moment in time, delivering a poignant message that all too often gets lost in today's fast-paced, frenzied society, monopolized by modern day manipulations and the eternal quest for material possessions. He wrote: "Fiji has been a reality check. The poverty is in your face. There is a definite misconception about this pocket sized utopia. Sure, there are cheap air fares to this tropical paradise, but it's also very third world - local communities are craving for the bare basics. On Tuesday, 30 managers (including myself) embarked on a support mission to a very poverty stricken area, just one hour (in the bush) from our luxurious five star hotel. I was confronted with no electricity, poor housing and no roads….in a place where 900 houses exist…each with just two rooms, it was hot, dry and dusty . But what stood out immediately, above and beyond the realities of this shanty town were the big smiles! A complete reality check unravelled before me. In the morning I painted. In the afternoon, I mixed concrete. English was minimal and it was sign language between me and my Fijian workmate - who was maybe 30 - all the way. He used two fingers to indicate dry cement and seven fingers for gravel mix. On we went, all day, drying and mixing, a dynamic duo. "Keep up 'whitey' - shovel faster," he joked….it felt like we were part of the chain gang! This guy earns $2.05 an hour, but oh how happy he was. At the end of the day we washed up; exhausted he shook my hand. It was emotional. I go home soon - to a bed , a great family, a car. I travel. I enjoy at times much more than I need. I handed him 20 dollars…he says 'No boss!' I say, 'Go to the pub, have a beer…' This was more than a day's pay for him…but for me it was a truly humbling, once in a life time experience. I saw my granddaughters, three and two respectively - little Ava’s and Lillie's, everywhere. Another group of managers made bed bunks… You know these little guys, until they received the bunks, had never slept in a bed. I helped deliver a bed to a family at the end of the day. A little Lillie, the same age caught my eye…I went and chatted and I told her about my girls…she was shy…I kept chatting to her and at last...came a beaming smile! I said goodbye and trekked off back to the bus, air conditioned with soft seats… As we moved off, I looked out the window, here was the little girl with her sister (an Ava) waving, a big toothy smile. My goodness I will always remember that big smile. The stand out is this hotel, flushed with all the amenities you could ever ask for, yet just 20 minutes out, utter poverty…nothing except the bare necessities. But it's these people, who have nothing in life but each other, who showcase the very best in humanity." Thanks for the brief reminder Poppy. All too often, we get caught up with how much we don't have. How many of us are guilty of enjoying the finer things in life without giving much thought to those that go without, really go without? Whether it's a dinner out, a new outfit, or the ability to go on holidays and stay at a luxury hotel, it's all too easy to forget (or turn a blind eye to) the harsh realities might be lurking just around the corner! Next time you grumble or complain the water's not hot enough or your cheese platter is a little on the lean side.... remember not too far from your five star paradise there just might be a family grinning from ear to ear about a plate of dusty rice to share and a wooden bunk to clamber into. A life lesson I surely hope we can teach our Ava and Lillie. What about you? Do you have similar stories of your own? I'd love to hear. Leave me a comment! … [Read more...]
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