China! It's the country on everybody's lips. The topical talking point on the global table. But aside from being home to the world's biggest economy, what is it really like living in one of the 654 cities, outside of Beijing or Shanghai? Ask anyone who's lived in the megalopolis that is China and they'll tell you (surprisingly) that every city is different, really different. Xi'an is commonly known as a second-tier city. Even though around 200 Chinese cities have more than one million people, the only first-tier cities are Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Shenzhen - largely due to their size, economic development, infrastructure and cultural significance. I've only been here four months, but what I've witnessed so far (as a foreigner) is a city with a fascinating fusion of sheltered innocence and simplicity perched on the edge of aggressive progression. For me, it's both intriguingly exciting and at times, scarily confronting....(if not a little mind boggling and mind blowing)! It may be 2015, but here in Xi'an, North West China, people are still smoking like it's 1975. In what is most likely a win for smokers (but perhaps not for the rest of the population), smoking inside is still a perfectly normal pastime, even though it was banned a few years ago. Bars, lobbies, restaurants and often toilets are peppered with people inhaling and exhaling with vigor. I've even seen a bus driver lighting up on the school run. There are no road rules. Crash helmets are not critical, in fact they are not even considered… and the more bodies squeezed onto the back of a bike, the merrier. Traffic for the most part is manic and let's just say you could be forgiven for thinking some driver's licenses were retrieved in the bottom of a cereal box. For more on this read School Run in China. Kids, forget about singing to the tune of "Let it Go" - the temperatures might be on the chilly side up north but it's not cold enough in town for 'Frozen,' yet. You won't find Peppa Pig jumping in muddy puddles or the latest episode of Disney movie, Planes buzzing through the cinemas. Super heroes like Batman and Spiderman are not required here. Barbie is still queen of the toy kingdom and Mickey and Minnie are still prince and princess of Disney. Even old faithful, Winnie the Pooh is met with a puzzled look from locals. Roller blades reign supreme….kites are a fashionable mode of fun for kids and the good old Rubick's Cube is making a popular comeback…or perhaps it's yet to be solved in this part of the world. Forget about leaving a message on somebody's mobile phone, voice mail simply doesn't exist. Receive a missed call and the etiquette is you'll call right back - ASAP. The mobile app What's App doesn't get a mention up here, but We Chat is where it's at. A cross between Facebook and What's App everyone and anyone is on this app. Facebook, Twitter and Google are banned but Weibo and Baidu take their place. Internet is patchy and compared to the western world, notoriously slow, but the only people you'll find complaining are the pesky foreigners! You won't see people glued to their phone on the streets (just as well because cars are driven on the footpath, so it's important to keep your wits about you)! You will find Samsung's US$7 billion semiconductor plant on the city's outskirts (the single biggest inbound investment on the mainland) along with one of the largest aviation industry manufacturers in China; not to mention 50-plus universities. When it comes to being ill and calling for a doctor, forget about a course of antibiotics by mouth, here the no frills hospital "injection" is the drug of choice. That said there are pharmacies dedicated solely to medication. Rows upon rows, boxes upon boxes bearing Chinese labels are yours for the taking, including antibiotics sans prescription. On the other hand, finding good old fashioned Vicks, Panadol and cold & flu tablets is a task in itself. Got a stomach bug? Rehydration drinks are yet to be flavored. Hydralite who? Retail shops and giant shopping malls are definitely in abundance - but just because almost everything is "made in China" doesn't mean it's here on the shelves. I wrote this post on that! It's back to the basics when it comes to stocking up on cosmetics and toiletries in supermarkets. Dental hygiene is clearly priority, with rows and rows (and rows) of toothpaste and toothbrushes up for grabs; along with a plethora of shampoos and soap! Forget about anything more advanced in the beauty department. Hairspray (at least more than one or two brands), hair product, face wipes and makeup brands are still minimal. Exposure to the western world is coming, slowly but surely - with some global brands like Starbucks, McDonalds (as recently as five years ago), KFC, Haagen Dazs and designer clothing stores like Gucci, Hugo Boss and those famous high street stores H & M and Zara making themselves heard, but for the most part, Xi'an is still a city in 'big brand' lockdown… With counterfeit culprits on every corner, every cashier you meet will scan your notes through a machine to ensure it's the genuine thing! When it comes to using credit cards, most places will only take Chinese credit cards. The local fare in Xi'an, is generally a mixture of the spicy, meaty and a little greasy. Shaanxi noodles are a hot favorite and every Chinese meal inevitably ends with a big bowl of these thick noodles, (of which it is considered highly rude not to finish). The province's famous Han Bao Bao is a tasty version of the western hamburger using a pita bread type bun to sandwich a pork filling. Pigs brain, lungs, ear; lamb's stomach, sheep's blood (need I go on)...is all perfectly normal fodder for a dinner date. Let's just say nothing is off limits or left to the imagination. Western staples like cheese, bread, butter, chocolate (yes, I call this a staple), pasta, sauces, herbs etc are available (through stealth investigation) but don't expect to get more than one or possibly two brands to make your selection from. When it comes to alcohol around here, it's all about Baijiu. This is China's infamous 60 per cent proof liquid you could be forgiven for thinking was the elixir of youth or the toast of the town! It's been brewed for thousands of years and even today at every business or formal gathering, guests must individually toast the host with a shot of Baijiu… and the host must return the favour with everyone (which can make for a very tipsy host indeed - just ask my husband). More on that here! Taste buds are evolving with red wine or "Hongjiu" starting to make its presence felt, but tradition dies hard, locals still preferring to scull it in small shot glass sizes over lunch or dinner. Outside of five star establishments, here in Xi'an, white wine is still to make a name for itself and (much to my disappointment) not to be found on too many beverage lists. In this nation of tea lovers, coffee has only recently come into play and quirky "cafes" are springing up around the city bearing menus with Mocha, Cappuccinos and Lattes, but by and large don't expect low fat milk, that stuff is for the faint hearted. It's full cream or go home. Recycling is yet to make a name for itself, in fact it's non existent. The pollution can be every bit as bad as you hear and masks are as much of an accessory as a hat and gloves. You can see it, smell it and taste it. Alternatively (and strangely) it can disappear as quickly as you can click your fingers, making way for crystal clear blue skies and sparkly sunshine. Despite a burgeoning population of 8.5 million people, Xi'an is a city where daily life still remains relatively simple. A city where the past and present is rapidly colliding, creating a culture that shyly teeters on the edge of change. One foot in, one foot out - it's tradition versus modernity with every step. This is life in an ancient Chinese city. … [Read more...]
When the Christmas Tree comes down: Another Goodbye….A New Year ahead
I tentatively unlock the door...tiptoeing inside. It's past midnight and I've just made a two hour round trip weaving speedily through the darkness of town, having taken my parents to the airport on the city's outskirts. Another goodbye. This one was hard. (Who am I kidding, they're always hard. Some are just tinged with a little more heaviness than others.) I'm confident I'm not alone. At this time of the year, airports are overflowing with people coming and going. (I'll try not to go all Love Actually on you here!) But you get my drift? As they say, airports can be the happiest and the saddest of places in the world. Being left behind in a strange country always adds to the weight. It still doesn't feel like my home and yet here I am - standing in a strange airport, surrounded by unfamiliar voices, virtually meaningless signs and a way of doing things I still find a little confronting.... waving off my loved ones (throwing in a few Chinese words for good measure) like I belong here. We've just spent 25 minutes waiting behind a barricade (like a herd of cattle) guarded by a man wearing a hardhat and toting a gun before we're allowed to move through to check in. I'm not even sure I'm allowed in to this closed off area but I'm determined to get mum and dad on the plane, safely. Flying Air Asia along a similar route to the recent fateful flight means there is naturally a hint of anxiety hanging over us. Recent stories of aeroplane doors being randomly opened on China flights not helping the cause. I shove my hands in my puffer jacket pocket and force myself to grin broadly at mum and dad, as they timidly make their way through to immigration, so they know, I'm ok. Then with a wave, a last smile, and a tear, they are gone. Just like that. It takes me back to my first few months in Hong Kong when I'd just had Ava. My family had kindly come over to share the love and the load. After weeks in the intense baby bubble together, they each left one by one ...there I was standing left holding a new baby, and a bucket load of tears. This time the tears are a little more restrained as I walk back to the car with a 'driver.' I text my sister. "Safely dispatched through immigration," I say, knowing she'll be waiting for them at the other end. Home ...and there on the bench sit the remnants of mum's red wine, her lipstick marks still on the glass. The ubiquitous letter and card we always leave each other on the table with plenty of 'Thank you's' and 'I love you to the moon and back.' The Christmas tree is down and the bare house symbolic of life a little less colourful on all accounts. It's been a big couple of weeks for us all....memories have been made, laughs had, presents wrapped and unwrapped, candles blown out, a few tears....some moments more hairy than others; as together we navigated a city that's both fascinating, challenging and frustrating all at once! In bed that night I find myself reading through a piece I wrote about finishing high school and what life would hold for me. There's a distinct note puncturing each sentence - of hope for a life resembling anything but normality. Well, I certainly got that I smile to myself. Living away from home, it's a constant pull between home comforts verses adrenalin-fuelled adventures. The expat life gets you in its grip and makes you feel like you can't live without it...a limited offer, you can't miss - it teases! One day soon, you'll be back home....no doubt wondering were you ever really there at all... But for now, it's one foot in, one foot out...another 'hello and goodbye' just around the corner. As Christmas trees come down across the globe and tinsel is packed away for another year, Santa sacks folded, resolutions made (some already broken), loved ones farewelled; do you feel the energy of a new year ahead or the flatness of a fiesta finished all too soon? I'm curious, how do you cope saying goodbye to loved ones? … [Read more...]
Christmas in China: What Happens in Xi’an?
Latest column for Expat Focus... “He’s checking his list, he’s checking it twice, he’s going to find out who’s naughty or nice….." Sing it with me! "….Santa Claus is coming to tooooown!!” No pretending you don't know this one ladies and gents! It’s one of those traditional, well known and much loved songs you hear ringing out across the radio, TV and in shopping centres and schools at this time of year, every. single. year. Without fail. But whether or not Santa Claus is coming to this town? Well…..if he is, it will probably be a quick visit! Here in the middle of China, they’re a little late to the party. With less than three per cent of China's enormous population Christian, not everyone is as familiar with the likes of "Santa dashing through the snow" or "a partridge in a pear tree!" It's only more recently that many Chinese are becoming familiar with the yuletide tradition. A growing number of young people appear eager to embrace western ideals (or perhaps it's just any excuse for a celebration)! In the bigger cities of China like Beijing and Shanghai where large international communities reside, there's no doubt the level of Christmas cheer is elevated a peg or two. But what happens here in Xi'an where foreigners are few and far between? Does the birthplace of civilization get into the Christmas spirit? It's safe to say, for the most part, it's business as usual! Click here to read the rest of this article on Expat Focus. … [Read more...]
Five Fail-Safe Ways to Save Money (after Christmas)!
Ahhh "money" and "saving" in the same sentence. I know! Trust me, it's not exactly my area of expertise (or enjoyment for that matter)! Just ask my husband and he'll tell you how (for want of a better word) hopeless I used to be at "saving!" But! Yes, there's a but…. When American Express asked if Mint Mocha Musings would like to collaborate and come up with some surefire tips for saving cash, admittedly I thought, while I've largely improved on the money front, I could probably do with some sage advice myself. You too? Read on. Let's face it, while it's not exactly the time of year to hold back on the spending (at least that's what I'm telling myself) it would be handy to have some extra cash up my sleeve once the jingle bells have rung out and Santa's skipped town. From where I stand, it's pretty easy for the festive merriment to hinder that normally sane judgement and hijack your hip pocket! Or is that just me convincing myself the carefree spending is all in the name of gallant gift giving and 'so and so' really needs that gorgeous handbag to go with that scarf and those earrings you've already bought! By Christmas Day I'm sure I'll be ready to quietly dip my head in the egg nog in a bid to while away the damage! January could be a lean month. So….I guess, the obvious thing here is to try and save money all year round, so by the time Santa's knocking on your door, asking for a list, well, you won't need to check it twice and cross off those expensive items. While this post is specifically talking about Hong Kong today, don't be thinking you can stick your head in the sand, my friends. Most of these savvy saving tips can apply to all and sundry, wherever you might be tucking into Christmas pud. So before you hit delete on this post, do yourself a favour and have a quick scan ahead! Ok so here goes….. five fab tips for making sure your Christmas (next year) is not fraught with a hefty price tag hangover! 1) GO PUBLIC Let's face it, in the sophisticated urban sprawl of Hong Kong, public transport is pretty remarkable. No arguments there right? For most people having a car is a luxury as opposed to a necessity. Taxis are (on a global scale) comparatively cheap but even better, there is the MTR, which is super clean, runs like clockwork and costs under $20 for a basic round trip. But you know what's even more cost effective? Yep, get out your brolly! Hong Kong's busses. Ok so the driving can be a little on the hairy side, tearing through the Kong in a 16 seater mini bus. But, at a fraction of the price of a cab, it's worth the 'fly by the seat of your pants' ride! Hong Kong's City Bus company is also pretty cost efficient for a longer journey across the city and out to the 'burbs. So next time you flag down an all too convenient taxi, give yourself a stern talking to and run to the nearest bus stop (just don't forget your brolly)! Ok, there are some exceptions like high heels, so if (like me) you still prefer the more convenient and comfort of a roaring red taxi here's my hot tip - rumour has it, there are 'discount taxis' with 20 per cent off the metered fares if you call ahead and spend a minimum of HK$50. Try it. Note: If you haven't purchased yourself an Octopus card you should be very ashamed!! Kidding, just hurry up and get one, pronto! It will save you money on both train and bus fares plus various other expenses like the 7-Eleven and Starbucks. (Not to mention its super convenient! You'll wonder how you EVER got along without one.) 2) GET WET Ok, so this applies to almost anywhere in the world, but particularly Asia, where Wet Markets are a way of life for locals. If you don't already shop like this, perhaps it's time to grab your shopping cart and get on board for some serious local action! (I'm assured the fruit and veges are equally as tasty and healthy as any you'd buy in the supermarket and at a third of the price.) There are Wet Markets all over town from Sheung Wan to Central, Wanchai, Kowloon and beyond….find your nearest spot and start stocking up. Hot tip -- Kwun Tong Wet Market is regarded as the cheapest in town. For a comprehensive list of where to get all your produce at rock bottom prices, check out this popular post by Mango Menus. And for a complete guide to what you can get at the markets and more importantly, what you can do with it, look no further than the fabulous Jasmine & Ginger! Sharon's got you covered from Dried Mushrooms to Lotus Root, Snake Beans and everything in between. 3) SHOP 'TIL YOU DROP Yes! Sometimes the last thing you feel like is heading to more than one place for your weekly groceries, but your budget will thank you for it. Shopping around is always a smart start to savvy savings. As well as getting your fruit, veg and meat at a reduced price, think outside the box and visit places like JUSCO for great for home ware; Prizemart for a great selection of cheaply priced toiletries…..take trips out to Sham Shui Po for party favors, arts and crafts and all your technical delights. Head to Sneaker Street and Sim City in Mongkok for all your electronic needs. Check in on chemists which often sell toilet rolls, wipes and the like at a cheaper price. 4) PLAY YOUR CARDS RIGHT You know the drill… you get an offer for a gazillion points or a chance to redeem cash back and well, it all seems too hard and far too unlikely to ever eventuate into anything meaningful. But, this is what you need to do… throw out that laissez faire attitude and start collecting your money's worth, because these card offers can turn some simple procedures into pure gold! Just to name a few, ParknShop.com has money back offers including gift coupons and awards. City Super offers a loyalty program and Mannings Chemist currently has a MannCard with points which can surprisingly add up very quickly! The Cathay Pacfic credit card enables you to collect points enables you to collect points shopping/wining and dining which can later be used to purchase flights around Asia. So, next time you get asked to sign up for a loyalty program, I urge you (and myself) to take the time and do it. 5) OWN IT ONLINE Yes! We all spend far too much time online, trawling our way through Twitter, Facebook and Instagram, but how about we put that finger tapping to good use? There are a myriad of online forums to buy, swap and sell just about anything your heart desires. You need to find these forums and follow them with vigor! Here are some that you should be on top of! mysale.hk SwapitHK BuySellSwap - Facebook HK Bargains - Facebook HK Mommy Marketplace - Facebook Hardly Worn It - Facebook Buy Sell Trade HK - Facebook HK Swap Toys - Facebook Free Hong Kong - Facebook Asia Xpat - Super Mondays Budgeting and Saving - Facebook Groupon Hong Kong iHerb NB: No matter where you are there's bound to be a few online groups singing to a similar tune. And with that, I bid you all a very Merry Christmas and a New Year, where you are free to spend up large!! *Sponsored by American Express....all ideas and words are my own.* … [Read more...]
We Are All One Type of Human – The Sydney Siege
Today like so many of you, my heart is heavy….the pit of my stomach hollow. The Sydney siege is playing on my mind. Glued to the television like thousands, maybe millions of others, I watched the tragic events unfold before me on Monday up here in North West China. Thankfully access to news channel CNN in the hotel, meant my lovely mum was spared having to text message me the harrowing details, bit by bit, piece by piece. If you watched, like me, you probably found it hard to tear yourself away from the rolling coverage that punctured our lounge rooms like a bad smell. Even if - as the hours wore on, and broadcasters seemed to be going around in circles having gleaned as much information as possible (which wasn't much) I began to wonder why so much attention was being paid to this story from the other side of the globe. But it was a story that captivated us. It could have been anywhere. A downtown cafe, morning coffee-lovers and a lone gunman on the loose. A cafe is a place we go to escape the outside world. A safe haven where we can relax in solitude or catch up with friends and loved ones. It's a drop in point, a start to the day and an end to the day. As I sit here writing this in a cafe, there's no denying these meeting spots are a central part of our lives. Along with the rest of the world, I watched on in horror, mulling over the big questions. Was he a terrorist? Was he acting within a group? Why? I watched as the puzzled and despairing faces of broadcasters bounced off my screen, some of them former colleagues and friends. This was our beloved Sydney. The relaxed and sunny harbour city with an attitude to match. A place where everything is plentiful and peaceful. There's a reason they call it the land of sunshine and mateship. Perhaps it's stretching the fairytale to say "bad" things don't happen Down Under, but by and large our shores have been untouched by terrorists. As with many stories lacking answers, people start looking for someone to blame. Animosity bubbled below the surface towards Islam and it threatened to erupt into an angry war of words and potentially so much more, amongst even the best of Australians. But, in what is quite possibly an unparalleled act of unity, by afternoon the hashtag #illridewithyou had gone viral. As rapidly as an Aussie bushfire sweeps through dense scrub, this one sentence rallied Australians together in the most uplifting way possible. From afar, I was bursting with pride. By late evening social media was swarming with posts praying for a peaceful outcome. Having watched three hostages fearfully escape for their lives earlier, but thankfully unharmed; I wrenched myself away from the tele and went to bed, naively thinking I would wake to hear they'd all met a similar fate and the horror of the day was over. Waking a little later than usual, my first contact with the outside world was a text from mum. I saw the words "a sad day" and suspected it hadn't gone well. I couldn't envisage just how badly though. For a brief minute, my subconscious wouldn't let me believe it. I frantically scoured Facebook and Twitter, scrambling for some semblance of words confronting me with the tragic truth. My first image was of wreathes laid out in Martin Place ...and I felt my gut contort. The Lindt Chocolate Cafe is not a cafe I've been in before, but I know Martin Place well. It’s etched in my memory after years of living and working in Sydney. Normally an inconsequential stretch for a stroll to meet friends; a popular spot where many friends have worked over the years (including my husband). Channel 7 and the Sky News bureau on its doorstep, restaurants where much laughter has been had, meetings held and one of the most important days of my life, my wedding at the Westin Hotel, No 1 Martin Place. I see posts from weary friends coming home after reporting in front of the camera and behind the scenes all through the night…..a tough stint to take on, on any given day. Their around the clock efforts are not lost on a world desperate for answers, but I feel their pain conveying such a distressing outcome. The journalist in me needs to know every detail so I trawl through every report I can find online, slowly letting the tragedy sink in. I'm reluctant to turn the TV on with my four year old girl at home. How do you explain such an horrendous event? The experts say don't even try. She senses my sombre mood and I try to give the word 'tolerance' a go. I find myself talking about her favourite colour pink and how just because someone else likes red instead, that's OK. I find it fitting that her Christmas concert here in Xi'an that night is called "The World of Christmas!" On stage we hear Merry Christmas spoken in five different languages. A phrase I've seen earlier in the day "we are all different but there is only one type of human" rings in my head. Staring sorrowfully into the faces of the two innocent victims, it's too easy to see a piece of ourselves in them. It hits home just how easy it could've been any one of us, any friend or any family member in that cafe..... and that chills me to the bone. These kinds of cowardly acts happen the world over far too frequently and it's always gut wrenching, but never is it more real than when it's on home soil. I talk to other expat friends over the days and we all feel the same. So close yet so far away. All I want to do is stand in Martin Place and feel the warmth of a nation beside me. Heartbroken for all those involved, especially those brave survivors and the courageous two we lost, know that friends the world over are united in mourning. Stay strong Australia. I'll Ride With You. … [Read more...]
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