I've been trying to get out of the city for a sneak peek into a local Chinese village since we got here, seven months ago. There's nothing quite like getting up close and personal with the locals in a new country. I like to get amongst it and smell the noodles roses. Mind you, here in Xi'an, you need to pick a day when you're up for the paparazzi to well and truly 'pap you! If you're feeling like a quiet, inconspicuous day with the family, this is not the time or place to do it. Trust me. With two 'blondies' in the family, clearly we are not going to fly under the radar, no matter how hard we try. To many locals, we are fair dinkum aliens with our pale skin, light wavy hair and 'big' noses! (Who said that!) So with some inside advice up our sleeves, we were told there was a good village to see just outside the city. About an hour's drive they said. (Clearly not taking into account one of the biggest festivals of the year Tomb Sweeping Day.) Not to be dissuaded we got in the car with about 50-thousand other locals that day and made our way through the dense traffic to Ma Wei Yi village. As we sped along highways, slowed down through small towns and emerged in what looked to be the Chinese countryside, I had no idea what we were in for. (Our driver for the day spoke zero English, so he couldn't enlighten us too much.) "Are we there yet, are we there yet?" The small but shrill voice beside me, rang out. The gap between cars was getting closer and given the unusual rain in Xi'an, the roads were pretty muddy and sloshy….drivers were getting stuck, left right and centre! Just quietly, it was quite amusing to watch. As we know, in Xi'an getting a driver's license is not exactly a brain-taxing affair and with the greatest respect, the driving is a little on the chaotic side. I looked up in the distance and saw.....much to my surprise, a Ferris Wheel. Let's be clear, it was no London Eye. But yes a giant, random Ferris Wheel…perched at the top of the hill, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Possibly a sign that humanity is close by? Cars were queuing by now….and the sole dirt road appeared to lead directly to the top of the hill. We decided our best bet was to get out and walk. (After hastily scrambling around for the word 'walk' to communicate our intentions to the driver we jumped out gesturing to meet back at the same spot in a couple of hours). Wishing I'd bought my new gumboots, we trudged up the hill, through the mud with hundreds of others….and this is where the fun begins. People all around us were having a good look at the 'waiguo ren' (foreigners) …some were slyly running ahead of us to snap a not so sneaky picture. People boldly reaching out to give Ava's blonde locks a little tug. We passed little stalls with fairy wings, fancy balloons and whaddyaknow....fresh eggs. Once at the top, this. A Tudor-like entrance, Chinese style. Still not quite sure what to expect from this 'village'….we followed the mammoth crowds. A little closer and we came face to face with the 'village' - a carpet of old oriental rooftops, flanking a long narrow alley stretched out before us. We ventured down the steep stairway, trying not to get pushed by the crowds…. and entered the village vortex. A hive of heaving bodies, all meandering through the old cobble stone streets amid a wash of brightly coloured lanterns and flags. The scene was for all intents and purposes like stepping back in time...(with some modern day crowd surfing for good measure!) Tiny kitchens and food stalls selling authentic Chinese food, were at every turn. Some had long bench tables outside, all filled to capacity with hungry locals, fervently slurping noodles and sipping soup, like there was no tomorrow. This is not quite the village I was imagining, but it was definitely full of fascinating flavours and colours. Of course I draw the line at creatures like this on my plate! Tempted to 'people watch' for hours, if it wasn't quite so hazardous to stop and become the tourist attraction ourselves. Inside the little huts, ladies were weaving mats in traditional style and little pocket-sized museums were laden with ancient relics, even furniture. (Of course I'm not crafty at the best of times and to the elderly lady's dismay, broke the piece of cotton!) Out of the alley way and into a clearing….packed with more bodies roaming around on a sunny day …. there was the unmistakeable sound of a band on a stage…. Although perhaps not quite the bands we're used to. It sounded a little like a cat scratching a tin roof….a little closer and it wasn't not quite so bad…. the acoustics clearly lost on the ramshackle equipment. For your entertaining pleasure...I bring you this video! Then.....if that wasn't bizarre enough, amidst the high-pitched 'performance', ancient rooftops, red lanterns and ancient rituals - a random, brightly colored theme park! It was like stumbling across something from a long lost era. The rides a little on the vintage side. But of course my 4 year old's face lit up. This is far more exciting than being squashed like sardines in a long forgotten Chinese food fair . My senses assaulted with a seventies throwback - the scene like something out of an old American movie intertwined with a backdrop from 'Breaking Bad.' I later find out this is not in fact an ancient village but a work in progress. A tourist haven built with a purpose. (The half constructed traditional Chinese-style huts kind of gave it away.) 51.8 million yuan has been invested into recreating an ancient inn culture in the shape of Ma Wei Folk Culture Village. The idea is to give locals and tourists the feeling they're stepping back in time ....to a place people populated around a thousand years ago. And while I'm not sure the kitschy theme park compliments this idea, it will definitely give you a taste of a bygone era. I guess we'll save the real thing for another day. This is China. … [Read more...]
Forget Easter in China: It’s All About ‘Sweeping the Tomb!’
As a non-recovering chocoholic, I'll be frank, I am a tad disappointed the Easter Bunny does not visit China! That's not to say the Chinese Catholic Church and other Christian churches in Xi'an aren't acknowledging the religious significance of the occasion, but officially it's not a holiday, with the majority of Chinese recognizing the belief systems of Confucianism, Taoism or Buddhism. As for the glorified commercialisation of Easter, yes I'm talking about an abundance of eggs, namely the chocolate ones (ok and if you want to narrow it right down the 'creme' eggs in particular) well.. it's pretty low key, in Xi'an, to say the least! There are no tasty chocolate eggs, wrapped in-oh-so shiny, brightly-colored wrapping paper, beckoning you from behind every counter, lining shop front windows or overflowing supermarket shelves. Generally it's business as usual. No one is out scurrying through hedges on an easter egg hunt. Try not to feel sorry for me (although chocolate egg donations are most welcome)! Nonetheless, there is a celebration going on this Easter, right across Asia. And don't mind if I say, it's bigger than Ben Hur. It most definitely doesn't involve chocolate, but what it does involve is 'cold' food (of sorts), kites and well...dead people. It's called Tomb Sweeping Day or perhaps slightly more appealing, QingMing Festival, also known as Pure Brightness Festival, and it falls 107 days after the start of winter on the 4th or 5th of April, every year. This auspicious date is one of the 24 solar terms….yes I had to look it up too. Basically, it's the Chinese lunisolar calendar which has 24 periods which governed agriculture in ancient China and still do today. Have a look here for a more in-depth description before I completely confuse you and myself. Around this date, temperatures begin to rise and rainfall increases - making it a crucial time for farmers. In March, the trees start returning to their lush green and pretty flowers are in blossom everywhere. After a dark and cold winter, it's like Xi'an has been given a facelift! But as the name suggest it's not all about the weather and spring flings. It's predominantly a day to pay respect to the dead. Why? Well, legend has it...back in 770 BC a man named Jie Zitui was so loyal to his prince who was forced into exile, he literally cut a piece of meat from his own leg (yes, yes he did) to make soup, in order to save his hungry master. Apparently the prince was reinstated nineteen years later and rewarded those who stayed loyal to him over the years, but completely forgot about poor old Jie Zitui! Later reminded of Jie's loyal exploits, he felt so ashamed and decided to reward him. However, by this time, Jie had taken himself and his mother to hide up in the mountains. In order to find Jie, the prince ordered his servants to set fire around the mountain, to 'smoke' Jie out... unsurprisingly Jie was later found dead next to a willow tree. Filled with remorse, the prince ordered the day be forever known as 'Hanshi (Cold Food) Festival' - a day without fire which meant no cooking so only cold food could be eaten. It's been celebrated ever since and became a public holiday in mainland China in 2008. So, what does it involve? Basically, people go to clean the tombs of loved ones by pulling out the weeds and adding fresh soil. They also take the deceased loved one's favorite food and wine as an offering to them in the afterlife. (In Chinese culture, it is believed people still need to be provided for once they've passed.) Paper resembling 'spirit money' has long been burned as an offering to the deceased, along with paper clothes, cars and houses! In more recent times, tech-savvy youth are often giving replicas of iPhones, certain their ancestors would appreciate a far more modern gadget! (Perhaps not surprisingly this has led to a market for selling cheap replica iPhones and the like online, specifically for tomb sweeping day!) Just quietly, I think one might like a rest from technology in the afterlife?! At the grave, the family members take turns to kowtow three to nine times (depending on the families' ties to traditional values). This Kowtowing ritual in front of the grave is performed in the order of patriarchal seniority within the family. After, the whole family sits down to feast on the food and drink they brought for the worship either at the site or in nearby gardens. In China, it's also believed people with weak constitutions won't cope eating cold, raw food on Qingming, when the weather is still quite cold, so in the past various activities were invented for building strength in the lead up to QingMing; like Chinese football, polo, willow-planting, tug-of-war, and rooster-fighting! Today, with cremation fast taking over from burials in China, Sweeping the Tomb has been simplified in many cities. More often than not it's flowers presented to the dead relatives ....but no matter what, respect is shown and good prayers for the deceased must be expressed. Hence, there's also another modern trend emerging I know you'll love to hear about. Online stores are offering 'tomb sweeping packages!' Ah yes, too busy to mourn your loved one?…Hire a professional mourner to go in your place! (I kid you not!) (Want kowtowing and sobbing? Extra fees required!) ;) Flying kites is also part and parcel of the Qingming Festival and they come in all shapes and sizes, usually depicting animals or characters from the chinese opera. They're flown day and night often with little lanterns tied to them. Flying kites on this day is supposed to bring good luck because people cut the string while the kite's in the sky to let it fly free. Don't be alarmed if you see people wearing a 'willow twig' on their heads - it's a nod to Jie and customary to keep the ghosts away. So, while the meaning of Easter, chocolate eggs and the bunny have very little significance for most people in China, here the people are still very much steeped in their own traditions and long-held rituals. No disrespect, but I'd still prefer chocolate eggs over cold cuts. This is China. … [Read more...]
Six Months in China: What I Now Know!
High fives all round because it's not every day you get flung (some may say head first) into the middle of China with little more than your sense of (frazzled) humour! Did I mention I had one pair of boots and a solitary jumper and winter was approaching much faster than I (clearly) anticipated! Ok, maybe I mentioned this (a few times). Needless to say, I have survived a hardy north west winter that included minus temps most days and the occasional snow fall and I am here (with bells on) to tell the tale! With tongue (ever so slightly) in cheek, here are a few quirky facts that I've come to learn about life in this spectacularly unique place, that may just surprise you. # The entire country and all of its 656 cities are on one time zone. (Yep for an Aussie, that's a little bit too straightforward.) # Many Chinese today still use cash rather than cards and tend to keep their cash in their safe at home as opposed to the bank. # There is a "bureau" (government department) for almost everything, including an 'internet' department. # "Guanxi" is a very popular word. There are many things that cannot be done without "Guanxi" which means "relationship" which often translates into "money!" # You can have a second child in Xi'an IF you or your husband are an only child. # Xi'an is not far from the desert, hence the dust! Trucks spray the roads with water several times a day (to the tune of "It's a Small World" no less). # Chinese don't do small talk. Plain and simple! Forget about "how are you?" and "Isn't it cold today?" or "Have a nice day!" Most Chinese people are not interested in your cheery, meaningless observations…..just zip it, OK! # "Please" is not used much in the Chinese language and saying, "Thank you" too much implies you are not friends. (Good friends don't need to say thank you.) # Just 20 years ago, Xi'an was a very poor city with very little in the way of technology. There were no private cars on the roads. # Most Chinese in Xi'an today believe they have plenty of freedom, especially compared to the days of Chairman Mao, who's Communist Party governed until his death in 1976. # Driving on Xi'an's roads today is frenetic (and that's putting it politely). Despite this, there are very few accidents (oh, clearly I wrote this before the minor bingle we were involved in the other day.) I've reached the conclusion that Chinese people all drive terribly, well. # For a massive population of around 1.3 billion, there are surprisingly few surnames in use today. Statistics say there are around 4000 last names but the top ten are used by about 40 per cent of the population. (If you think about it, we all know someone with the surname Zhang, Huang, Wei, Wang and Wong don't we!) # The first 3 numbers of your phone number represent the phone company you're with. # Chinese very much respect the hierarchy in any situation, even if they don't agree. It's not easy for a Chinese person to reveal what they really think. # Sick babies in hospital will have an intravenous inserted in their forehead as opposed to other body parts. # On March 15th, every year, regardless of the temperature the government turns the heating off. It's not switched back on until November 15th. Yep! Six months in, just a few small, random but intriguing facts about the world's fastest growing nation. This is China. … [Read more...]
Hong Kong Bucket List: What to Check Off, Before You Check Out
A Mint Mocha Musings collaboration with The HK HUB If you’re reading this, you probably don’t need convincing that Hong Kong is an absolute treasure trove of entertainment! That’s why we (not to mention the world) can’t get enough of this vibrant metropolis, right?If you’re an expat you’ve probably done your fair share of sight-seeing; playing tour guide to the myriad of family members and friends who’ve popped over to the orient for a taste of the Fragrant Harbour. And I’m assuming you’ve done your best to partake in much of the city’s incredible offerings over the years? But, just to be sure you haven’t missed a thing, we’ve put together a Hong Kong bucket list of everything you should do (at least once) before you leave the mighty Kong. Some of these things are the obvious like a night out at the Happy Valley Races, but you’d be surprised at how many people suddenly find their time in Hong Kong cut short, and are horrifyingly left with that feeling, there’s so much more to see! Don’t let that be you! As well as the obvious attractions, we’ve also got some of Hong Kong’s best kept secrets to share with you. Click over to THE HK HUB for my latest piece and over 50 amazing options. You're welcome! ;) Pssst Want to know a secret? Tai O fishing village in the pic above is the one place I haven't been in Hong Kong, that I really want to see! Don't leave it off your bucket list! … [Read more...]
Four Good Reasons You Need to Travel to China
Yep! (other than coming to visit me of course!) If you've never been to China, I'm here to convince you to give it a shot, to put it on the bucket list! I'm not promising a picture perfect paradise that will blow your mind, but I am pitching a place that is predominantly laced with a fascinating past intertwined with an equally intriguing present. It's a unique combination that may well give you one of your more priceless 'holiday' experiences. I've been living in Xi'an, north west China for around five months now and whilst I lived in Hong Kong for four years and had a reasonably good induction into Asia, (naively) I assumed I was prepared for a move to the motherland. I wasn't. Granted, I'm in a second tier city, so the comparisons between Xi'an and Hong Kong are not as forthcoming as between say, the bright lights of Shanghai and Hong Kong, but nonetheless I'm quickly realizing, love it or hate it, China is a country with an enthralling state of affairs. Here are my four reasons I believe you should consider a trip to the mad, but oh so memorable Mainland! Click to my column on Expat Focus for the lowdown! … [Read more...]
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