Mint Mocha Musings

The hotelier's wife: an expat affair around the globe

“Mad Max” Scenes! The School Run in China!

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So the truth of the matter is, I may well have been heard (from across the miles) whinging and moaning a few times (just a few) about the hour and a half (plus) round trip to take my daughter to school, here in China each morning. (Especially mid-winter!) But…(there's always a but)… i'll let you in on a little secret: it's actually one of the highlights of my day. (Yeh, I lead an exciting life, I know!) As an expat (especially one living in a 5-Star bubble) it's easy to avoid the real world in which you've been plonked in….and pretend you're just on a stay cation (kind of). So my forced early morning plunge into the real world is invigorating, to say the least! For starters, I'm not a morning person, so the fact that it gets me up and (presentable for the outside world) early, is not entirely a bad thing.  Most of all though, I am fascinated by the kaleidoscope of color I see flying by me on the daily 45 minute journey from one side of town to the other. The eye opening sights and the cacophony of sounds have me permanently mesmerized (which often includes the crackle of fireworks, at 9am, no less)!   Like any city, it's a busy time of day….and here it's a patchwork quilt of hustle and bustle in hair-raising fashion… And it's not just on the roads. I'll see workers starting the day by dancing in unison to a particularly well choreographed beat on the side of the road…(team building at its best). In winter, mini open fires are breathing a toasty warmth at chilled workers starting the day outdoors. Some people are already snoozing, in the most unlikely spots (like the side of a busy highway)! Majong games are underway…. and the elderly are exercising up a storm in local parks. Cleaners in their now familiar bright orange uniforms dot every street corner with their makeshift straw brooms, dare I say, rather aimlessly sweeping up the rubbish (not to mention dirt…they like to sweep the dirt).  Water trucks cruise to the tune of "It's a small world" spraying away the dust. Street food carts line footpaths catching the work crowds for breakfast. Whatever the season, the daily drive through the manic, bumper to bumper traffic includes bikes, lots of them. Until 20 years ago, there were no cars on Xi'an's roads, so this is a city with a mammoth bike riding culture. Testament to this, is every conceivable type of bike on the road..all idling along amongst the fast cars (old and new) and snuggling beside ridiculously overcrowded busses. Three wheelers, Tuk Tuks, electric bikes, bikes with trailers, tiny push bikes with overgrown men….or one of the myriad of bright green bikes you can hire at numerous bike stations planted all over the city. Many are loaded up with precariously balanced goods including everything from white goods (i'm talking fridges and the like) to sky-high piles of rubbish, even mattresses and people, so00 many people, all on one bike sandwiched together for their morning run. Safety is naturally questionable. Crash helmets are optimal and very few are worn. Although I do see the odd "Village People" style helmet perched on the top of someone's head. Side-saddle is pretty mandatory for the ladies, often riding on the back. Texting/talking on your phone, perfectly acceptable, as is riding in the back of a trailer in the middle of the city.  Umbrellas are the accessory du jour. Rain or shine, brightly coloured brollies (some edged with lace, others with spectacular patterns) are wielded to protect from the elements. Specially created umbrellas act as rainproof roofs never failing in the most blustery conditions. Raincoats come in a variety of shapes and sizes….some made to fit two people, some made to fit you and your bike. In winter, no one rides without big, warm gloves attached to the handle bars. It's never ever dull and I spend most of my time frantically trying to capture what I see, on camera (usually with little return for my investment). I know! Trying to take a photograph in a moving vehicle is largely futile! (For the record, I'm not driving!) Although here, no one would bat an eyelid if I was trying to snap a shot whilst behind the wheel! Here tackling the roads as a driver is an event like no other I've seen. I thought Hong Kong roads were wild…. looking back, they seem tame and (shock horror) rather orderly.  Here it's a complete mish mash of busses, cars, bikes and people all vying for a spot almost seemingly oblivious to each other. But ironically, the system, whatever it is, works!! Most of the time, anyway. I've observed, that, on the whole, here in Xi'an, cars on the road don't really ever stop on their journey. By that I mean, there are very few traffic lights and everyone is just moving forward (sideways and backwards) albeit rather slowly….weaving in and out…but rarely do they grind to an actual halt.  Invariably, this is not helping me to capture a good shot! And I don't think my driver would be too happy if I started asking him to stop every 30 seconds so I could snap the picture. Every few days though, somehow, I do manage to get a half decent one, which I've been saving to put together in this one post for your viewing pleasure. Hopefully you'll find it as much of a fascinating assault on the senses as I do.  The longer I'm here, naturally the more I learn about this city and what makes it tick. Why it is what it is. I'm told, until just a few years ago, locals could more or less get their driver's license without too much effort.  These days things are a little more strict and you must register with a driving school but there is no set number of driving lessons.  Who needs practice eh! At first glance, it seems like drivers here drive well, terrible! (The saying getting your license in a cornflakes packet seems rather apt!) It's not uncommon to see people in brand new, rather slick cars 'stuck,' simply unable to drive them from point A to B. They've literally driven them off the showroom floor without so much as a driving lesson. It doesn't seem to matter. People (rather comically) expect this.  It's probably why the rules are so few and far between. No one sticks to their lane, ever (unless on the freeway) and very very few drivers use those things we call 'blinkers'…and guess what, no one gives two hoots. (Or maybe they do?!)  These people have a much more powerful tool at their disposal….it's called the mighty horn!! The horn seems to be the answer…the thing that allows drivers to weave in and out of traffic in any fashion they choose. Crossing into four lanes of oncoming traffic without so much as a hesitant foot on the break is completely normal. (For the first few months, I literally closed my eyes on the run!) The beeping is the one constant in your day! It's loud, prolonged and ear splitting! Night and day! Initially, I assumed there must be a lot of angry drivers out there. I mean, where I come from, beeping at someone means you're pretty peeved. Road rage is all the rage! Here though it acts as a type of 'warning' system. A friendly nudge, if you like (moments before the nudge)! "Hey I'm coming up behind you, move to the side"…."Hey small car, I'm moving into your lane move over…" Hey person, I'm right beside you, be careful." No one is offended by this courtesy beep…they just move ever so slightly out of the way. Interestingly, come exam time in school though, the government bans all beeping! Cars come within inches of each other (and people) but mindbogglingly rarely collide!  I've seen very few major accidents around the city….the speed limit rarely gets over 40 - usually a few minor bingles are visible…which themselves cause more chaos because unless both parties can agree who's at fault, they must stay put in the exact spot they collided until the police arrive (which can take awhile). My small person and I have had the pleasure of being stuck giggling nervously in the back seat after a 'bump' with another car, while traffic edged past us in every direction on a very busy highway. (It wasn't ideal to get out….and have a gazillion Chinese men gawking at the whiteys!) The same goes for crossing the road. There's absolutely no set rule. Most people just step out without so much as a sideways glance over their shoulder… No body really waits until the little 'green' man says it's safe to cross (because it's not). Cars still keep driving directly at you without slowing down. It's you who needs to stop and let them pass, not the car.  I'm always amazed more people don't get run over but somehow everyone manages to narrowly miss one another.  It sounds manic (and a little frightening I know) but once you get used to it, the heart failure moments are minimized - mind you teaching the four year old road rules is probably out of the question! The one and only rule you need to remember, whoever is bigger gets to go first!  There's no mistaking you're in China. It's a school run with serious attitude! This is China!                     … [Read more...]

Repatriation is Not a Dirty Word!

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It’s a Completely Different Ball Game: Tips to play it well! "Expat!"  In my current circles, it’s a word tossed around between friends like a ball between team players in a sports game.  Everyone has days where they hold on to the ball a little tighter, clinging on to all that it represents; especially when it's often the only way to survive in a foreign country.   Other times we toss it away, eager to pass the ball on to someone else - sick of all that it means and brings…the distance from loved ones, the never-ending goodbyes, the isolation, the challenges. Expatriating is never easy, to start with at least….it takes time to rack up points on the board and feel like a winner in a new country.  At the risk of overdoing the ball analogy, its like playing for a new team after years of bonding with another. Scary as hell, but once you bond with your new team, its high fives all ‘round…you play the game and you play it well! But what about repatriating - it's not a word that we bandy about with the same energy as we do expat! In fact amongst expats it's often a dirty word! After all, it means the ride is over…..the adventure is finished. We are homeward bound. Or as the actual definition says: “The process of returning a person to their place of origin or citizenship.” You are forever changed.  Hell, I’m gonna keep using this ball analogy, I like it! Repatriating is a whole different ball game! I like how Naomi Hattaway sums it up in her post "I am a Triangle." For some expats entrapped in all that is expat life, it’s the unthinkable… no one wants to talk about it. For others, whose time is up, it’s the unavoidable and for many it’s the inevitable and more often than not the desirable….but whatever lures you back home, it usually comes with the age-old question, when is the right time to pack up and call it a day? Many of the expats I know (including myself) have been bouncing the expat ball for more than a few good years now……but in their heart of hearts they know it’s time to think about hanging up their boots and returning home. Once you get over the mental hurdle, it starts to come up in conversations more regularly, and is discussed more intently. Usually there are three big questions: Where to live? Where to work? And (if you have children) where to send them to school? Expats are expats for many reasons….amongst the most obvious, the desire for a change of pace, the excitement of life in a new country, the thrill of an adventure…….but it’s not all about the hair-raising shenanigans, it's also for the lifestyle it more often than not affords….and the career prospects it brings. Most of us are living in another country because our job or our partner’s job has taken us there; while it's often in a strange country, where your native language isn't spoken, the culture is poles apart from your own and you can't get a block of Cadbury's chocolate to save yourself (oh wait! That's just me!) there are also many benefits that come with the expat title. Whether it’s free or cheaper housing, paid school tuition, a driver, regular trips back home, health insurance and/or a higher salary than you were previously afforded, lower tax rates or no tax at all; it generally brings advantages you wouldn't normally get at home.   Expats are often in countries less developed than their own which means everyday life is cheaper, whether it's eating out at local hole in the wall, the low cost of public transport, getting hired help at a fraction of the price it would cost back home, or being able to afford regular exotic holidays. And for some living the expat lifestyle, things like car payments, utility bills and groceries are taken out of the equation. It’s easy to see why expats become addicted to their new life overseas. Once the expat bug bites, it bites hard and giving it up, understandably no easy task. For many expats who moved away for two years and that two became ten; one child became three….returning home with excess baggage means your lifestyle expenses have probably changed quite dramatically, compared to life before moving away. This makes heading home particularly daunting when you know the cost of living is incomparable. Housing in your home country may have doubled since you left….the cost of food skyrocketed, school fees risen with the rest of the world and babysitters these days, well they’re not happy with a packet of chips and a good movie!  Then there are the job opportunities. Many expats are in the countries they are in, for the sheer job availability factor. Back home, these kind of jobs just don’t exist and if they do, the pond is small. There’s also the psychological affect. When you go overseas as an expat everything is brand spanking new and different - while it’s challenging at times, it’s ok because you expect it to be. Your brain allows you to process these idiosyncrasies as all part of the "cultural" experience. When you go home, you expect things to be the same as when you left, but often they’re not and there's no putting it down to being in an exotic/bizzare location. Psychologists say, "The home expats return to can feel as strange as the foreign land they once travelled to!" While a lot of effort is put into expatriating, global companies are being asked to think about both ends of the deal these days or risk losing valuable employees all too soon after they’ve arrived home. So how do you repatriate and how do you do it well? 1) Be Emotionally Prepared There's no denying, it can be emotionally tough, moving, well anywhere! Repatriating, it's important to acknowledge, things WILL have changed, not just for you and your family but also the family and friends you're returning to. There's a good chance, your family and friends will treat you as the same person who left, and you’ll probably find yourself acting the same way.  Those old patterns will take a while to change once you’re back home, and sometimes it may feel like nothing has really changed at all. Did you ever leave? This article in Reach to Teach Recruiting explains how important it is to Let It Go. Naturally, the bonds you've created with expat friends are strong - when you’re living in another country it can feel like you connect with an instant community of likeminded friends, but make sure you also keep in touch with old friends and family. With today’s technology…you have the ability to stay connected! It's easier to know what friends are up to, what’s happening in their lives and of course keep in regular touch with loved ones. Prepare your children mentally for the return home.  Adjusting to move back home is a bigger challenge for children who have grown up in a different country. Make sure that they are feeling somewhat settled before putting them into another new school. Remember you can't recreate your old life, this is a new chapter. Keep travelling, even in your home country. Try to see things you've seen in an effort to quell that yearn for adventure. 2) Be Financially Prepared There are a few key things to think about when it comes to finances when you repatriate. You may have been a non-resident in your home country, for taxation purposes, so you'll need to re-register with the relevant taxation body. Make sure you renegotiate your contract if you are heading back home with the same company; if you're taking on a new job, make sure your salary is sufficient to cover the cost of living. Some points to think about: interest-free loans or loans at favorable rates to buy a house. Check local banks/building societies in your home town offering competitive fixed home rates like Newcastle Permanent. Ask about car or other living expenses; assistance for re-housing; food allowance; the cost covered or partially covered for children’s education; compensation for the loss of your spouse’s income. Be aware that, if you haven't kept a bank account open in your home country while you've been living overseas you may not be entitled to any credit (including a mortgage) on your return. Some repatriation experts recommend (if you are in a position to do so) buying a place back home while you’re still living away and going there for vacations and holiday periods. “This way, you develop your relationships within the community.” And when you go there to live permanently, it will feel more like home, where you belong,” says Gwen Sawchuck. Financial advisors say transferring money back home can be an option to manage savings, investments and mortgage commitments. Check out Mint Mocha Musings partner Clearfx. 3) Be Practically Primed Repatriating as a resident is naturally different in each country. Make sure you've organized a shipping company if you have things to take home; get quotes just as you did when you left. Check on pet relocation/quarantine guidelines, schooling for your children (do you need to have deposits down in advance?) research where to live, the best suburbs and what you can realistically afford. Investigate the jobs market…how easy/hard will it be to find work.  Organise for your mail to be forwarded and tie up loose ends with your current place of abode, including closing bank accounts, phone lines and housing leases. Check you're covered for medical care and dental care. Do make sure all of your documents like educational certificates, birth certificates, licenses, medical certificates, marriage certificates etc are not in the shipping and easily accessible when you return home. You'll need them. (Trust me!) The truth is….reality bites. Repatriation can be harder than leaving…and just as it does when you become an expat….it takes time to adjust. The game's not over….it's just a new season! "Cherish those memories and experiences, but don’t judge the present against them. There are so many more adventures to find, so many more journeys to take—but you will never see them if you’re always turning your face toward the past."       … [Read more...]

Made in China: Not for Sale in China – Why Global Brands are Missing from China’s Shelves

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I have a four year old who likes toys. Ok, let's face it, is there are four year old on this planet who doesn't like a toy or three? (Cue Frozen theme song: "Let it gooooo!" Obviously followed by tormented parents hastily burying Frozen DVD in the rubbish while child sleeps.)  Me? I don't have to worry about that so much….you see, the thing is, living in Xi'an - the toy department is a little on the lean side. Olaf and his mates are still a bit of an enigma for kids 'round these parts. In fact, quite a few of the latest and greatest children's toys are few and far between in much of China. There's this (easily) misguided belief that because (almost) everything is 'made in China,' it's got to be here in abundance, and no less, cheap as chips! Sadly, I'm here to bring you the bad news: that's not really the case. (Hence my recent outsourcing via US Global Mail for some Peppa Pig paraphernalia!) China might be famous as the 'factory to the world,' pumping out a myriad of goods, all bearing the 'Made in China' stamp, but (and yes I'm truly sorry to burst your bubble) that's where the love affair with homemade products seemingly ends. I'm sure things are a little different in a first tier city, so before you start saying, "Oh she's lost her marbles, I've seen Elsa and Anna kicking up a storm in downtown Shanghai!" let it be said, second tier cities are slightly less endowed in the toy department. Yes, I admit I saw Elsa last week hanging out at a local toy shop up the road. It was the first time she's graced Xi'an because for the most part, it's still good old Barbie, roller blades and China's famous "cartoon goat" all the way… And at the risk of sending you into a complete frazzle, if you're after anything more elaborate than say soap and toothpaste in the toiletries department, you'll be sorely disappointed. (OK, I may be exaggerating slightly, but trust me when I say, only very slightly!) If, like I was, you've had little to do with real China, you're probably wondering why on earth this is the case?  Surely, you ponder, Chinese consumers would be open to new products, more choice, a wider variety of goods lining their shelves? Particularly if they're made right here on home soil? Right?! Wrong! If you watch the news or read the paper, it's been hard to miss the rapid rate in which China has progressed from an isolated economy into a global powerhouse. With that, we've witnessed how quickly global brands (at least those who've managed to penetrate the market) like Starbucks, McDonalds, Apple and of course the plethora of designer labels have been accepted and adopted enthusiastically by locals. In fact, China has for all intents and purposes become renowned as a country bearing the world's most avid luxury shoppers. Now that's quite a title! Hence, you can imagine my surprise,  dismay, utter disappointment, when I arrived in downtown Xi'an only to discover there are quite a few gaps on the shelves when it comes to toiletries, cosmetics, toys, household items, food etc….etc. Even a desperate browse online for Christmas shopping at Amazon China was met with a distinctly rationed supply of goods. (FYI, Amazon from any other country can't deliver to China.) (Of course, being the savvy shopper that I am, we did manage to snaffle a few items from Santa, including a giant paddling pool. (It came without a pump and deflated after day one, but that's a story for another day!)) So, more than a little perplexed, I delved a little deeper, explored a little further and…'huzzah'… it all became a little clearer. For a start, ask any business-savvy person 'in the know' and they'll tell you trading in China is no straightforward task. A Forbes opinion piece last year on America's trade policy quoted: "Any corporation that wants to sell in China must not only manufacture there but bring its best technology. Then it is expected to export it back to the United States." As far as China importing American products, it's often a no go zone. This pattern has been similar for most western countries. They call it Chinese protectionism and it's very clear, China is protective about what it 'imports' into the country. So despite the fact that almost every thing you can buy is made here on Chinese soil, they are made for the 'western' market, not China…. and more often than not, never the twain shall meet. From a business point of view, China’s complex legislative and political system is difficult to navigate, especially for a brand that does not have a local partner. Many global brands have been trying for decades to capitalize on the world’s most populous nation (wouldn't you be trying to engage 1.3 billion newly cashed up consumers), but for the majority, progress has been slow. In second tier cities, it's made even harder by a lack of demand for particular products and the fact that big companies need to cultivate relationships with local government. Even if conglomerates can forge ties with China and are given the green light, multinational firms trying to woo Chinese consumers need to think outside the box or risk failing miserably. Chinese may have a penchant for luxury goods, but what's perceived as luxury is not necessarily the same as what the rest of the world covets. In China, luxury is not necessarily about price point. A large part of China is still relatively poor and for them a night out at Pizza Hut rather than a fancy 5-Star hotel can be far more appealing. A flimsy social safety net means for tens of millions of Chinese, the priority is saving for their own education, healthcare and retirement. And while consumer spending has been rising along with China's prosperity, it's done so almost in spite of an economic model geared almost exclusively toward production rather than domestic consumption. The place renowned for delivering low-cost goods to Western consumers doesn't always do the same for its own people. Apple laptops are made at a Chinese factory that grants a rebate on China's 17 per cent value added tax, as long as those computers are exported and sold overseas. Before that same machine can be sold domestically, it is first sent to Hong Kong, (an SAR of China) then returned to the mainland with a 20 per cent import tariff. It also explains why Chinese pour over the border into Hong Kong in their droves….like bees to honey - quite simply, it's cheaper! As I write this though, it seems the tide might be turning. It's been revealed from this month, China will cut import taxes on a range of overseas goods by an average of 50 per cent in an effort to boost global brands in China and also give a lift to domestic consumption in the world’s second biggest economy. (I may yet be singing "Let it Go" with the rest of the world.) Price point aside, understanding the consumer is also key and a quote I read in The Economist recently, pretty well summed it up: "In China, trying to sell Cheese is like trying to sell stinky tofu in Switzerland." So, after overcoming my initial shock…. it now makes perfect sense that I struggle to get my favorite Cadbury block of chocolate at the supermarket. Seeking approval from China is tough, persuading a nation of non-chocolate lovers even tougher! 30 years ago most Chinese had never tasted chocolate. For them it's far from a common snack (yes, feel free to call chocolate a snack!) and even today is usually reserved by the Chinese for gift giving (probably to salivating foreigners like myself!) In China, if you're lucky enough to be accepted into the retail market, it's about getting the formula right. This is a country that cares a lot about history, heritage and culture. Those companies that connect to the Chinese heritage are much more likely to prosper. Take designer brand Louis Vuitton. All LV stores carry artwork relating to the local area; that's a move that resonates well in the Chinese market. It seems Colonal Sanders is not the only one that's nailed this recipe for success. The seven secret spices may have been tweaked for the Chinese palate and it's working. In the US, KFC is dwarfed by McDonalds; in China KFC has 3300 restaurants and counting - more than three times McDonalds. On the menu there are fewer buckets of chicken wings and tasty chips, with more congee and rice porridge tempting consumers with what they know and love. Crest brand of toothpaste has also become hugely popular in China. With flavors like lemon, tea, salt and honey, I can't imagine why! But as they say (and I'm sure Crest wholeheartedly agrees) "there's no accounting for taste!" Those big brands who've dumped their existing products on the Chinese with little thought have struggled for a slice of the market. Chinese people are also known for purchasing something they can use (showcase) in public. That flash BMW you see cruising the streets or that Gucci handbag swung over his or her shoulder (Chinese men are also partial to a designer purse) are more sought after than things for the household.  Home Depot, an American DIY chain struggled to crack the China market for years after trying to persuade middle class Chinese to decorate their home. Ironically, Ikea is coming to Xi'an this year….(cue fist pumps) whether it is successful remains to be seen, but so far in China they are claiming victory, with 20 plus stores. The key to their success? Localizing for the Chinese market. Check out this video! (I know where to go for a snooze.) So, by now, you're probably getting the idea, that what's made in China is not necessarily found in China, and if it is... and it's affordable, it's usually because big brands got the formula right.  Of course this equation can create a slight dilemma for us expats homesick for a local fix. Plunged into a frenzy of dim sum, endless rows of toothpaste and Hello Kitty fever, what's a Waigouren (foreigner) to do?  A) Suck it up B) Stock up on trips back home.... Thankfully there is a third option, with foreign businesses starting to capitalize on the growing expat market. Jinkou is just one online company that gives you instant access to those familiar brands you know and love. Hello Cheetos and Kraft Macaroni Cheese!  Companies are also spotting opportunities to help out expats with private mail boxes. U.S Global Mail is one such company who recently came to me with their offer of a private mail box. You can purchase things online in the US that you can't purchase in person or online in China and have them sent to your own specific US address (not a PO Box) and then shipped right to your doorstep. With a few kids' birthdays coming up, I decided Hello Kitty had had her day and to test them out with an order for some much desired Peppa Pig items! Within a few days my box of goodies was in my own virtual private mail box. The labels were scanned so I could see what it was and I could choose the method of shipping and whether or not I wanted the parcel opened and repackaged or sent with other items I'd ordered. Not only can you use them to purchase those much craved for home staples, you can have your ordinary every day bills sent to your virtual private mailbox. We all know those pesky bank statements and forms that quickly pile up and if you move around a lot, it's easy to miss important documents, sent to old addresses. If everything is forwarded to Global Mail, they'll simply scan the item and put them in the virtual mail box for you to look at. You can then decide if you want them to open it for a closer look, send it on to you or simply dump it in the trash. For some expats it's a lifeline, allowing them to get vital medication shipped in from home. This blog post by DC Rainmaker in Paris, helps explain the lowdown. I'm incredibly happy to report, despite the often difficulties faced in getting mail in China, Peppa Pig's classroom made it right to my door! So next time you ask me if I'm shopping up a storm in China, you'll know the rather grim answer (did I mention the hotelier's quite happy about the money I'm saving?)! (Admittedly I'm still getting a retail fix every now and then at H & M and Zara, so all is not lost.) Oh and if you announce you're visiting China, you won't be surprised when I request a block or two of Cadbury's peppermint chocolate, will you! This is China.   … [Read more...]

Culturally Enlightened: The Big Day Out, China Style! (Anyone for an eyeball massage?)

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Living in China, I am always up for a new experience, a chance to make new memories and of course, a good story to write about! So, I rather enthusiastically agreed to go on a team building exercise with the hotelier and his well, team and their families! A day trip out to the mountains sounded idyllic…they were on my 'to do' list anyway. A peaceful bus ride out, taking in the sights …no sweat. Little did I know what lay ahead in the 13 hours of non-stop entertainment, China-style! Rewind your mind's images from that peaceful bus ride out……instead, cut to images of the 'happy bus' rolling off into the China madness with a quick round of 'rock, paper, scissors' followed by a frenzied game of hot potato! (Except in place of the potato, a soft toy in the shape of a (smiling) star.) Whoever was left holding said star when the music stopped had to perform "something" at the front of the bus, on the microphone!  As I shrunk further and further into my seat, hoping this was just for the team…not the ring-ins, before I knew it, I found myself holding the 'yellow star' and being cheered loudly up to the front of the bus. Praising the lord for my small person who loves to put on a good show, I dragged her with me!  What to sing to a bus load of Chinese speakers, most who wouldn't understand me in English anyway?  A good old maori song of, course! This hit from my primary school days, that I've managed to hang onto in my adult life comes in handy sometimes (usually after a few too many beverages but rather more likely these days, singing up a storm with my small person in the privacy of my own home)! So, that bizarre picture there and then, really indicative of the day that lay ahead! Arriving at our destination, the base of Xi'an's famous Mt. Lishan (this is where the renowned Emperor Qin Shi Huang built his mausoleum and those amazing Terracotta Warriors to guard it) it was a toasty 32 degrees and as I looked up at the towering mountain before me, I was thankful I'd heeded the hotelier's advice and worn sneakers and shorts. What to do before we start the journey? A three-legged race, of course. (Careful not to be mowed down by the numerous tourist coaches flanking our race track!) A quick toilet stop (squat of course, byo tissues) and we were off!  The walk started out as you'd expect… pleasant, calm, shaded…plenty of lush, green trees…  Naturally the further we went, those paved steps got steeper and steeper and steeper, with every turn - just when you thought the top had to be in sight, another trek up calf-busting stairs. (Really wishing I'd stretched as opposed to a three-legged race!) The small person did remarkably well, motivated onwards by mum's rash promise of an ice-cream…little did I know, from about the half way point, there would be stalls with all sorts of ice blocks, ice-creams and much needed cold drinks (including beer) and eggs! (Thank you, Thank you!) After each set of stairs, there was usually a platform of some description to rest, where you might find an important statue, a carving, a monument…relating to the significant history of the mountain. Some people were selling pictures…others palm reading….and then this……caught me by surprise. Yep, that right there's a target range. Hire your bow and arrow and shoot. At what? Oh, that's just the Prime Minister of Japan.  (Nothing PC about that really.) (Again, a story for another day!) Quick look at the view amongst the bow and arrow firing and onwards and upwards we went…  Admittedly, it was becoming a bit of a tough slog by now….small person being piggy backed by daddy…in between the much needed pit stops! I really take my hat off to this lady…..I love my heels, but this is taking glamour to a whole new level! (Calls for a hash tag, #Glamourhiking) Finally we reach the top! Qualifying as the third team up! (Did I mention it was a race?!)  More cool drinks and ice blocks….. and this spectacular view!  A twenty minute pit stop to catch our breath, before making our way partly back down the mountain for lunch at this amazing spot - a farmer's house known in English as "Bushy Beard!" (Mind the chickens on the way out!) From here, it was (thankfully) a bus ride down the mountain to the Huaqing Hot Springs.  Now, I've only really ever been to the hot springs in Rotorua, New Zealand, as a kid on our annual Christmas holiday - mostly they were mud pools and it didn't involve immersion! Naturally, I was curious about what to expect. These hot springs are quite new to Xi'an so the hotel exuded a modern, serene spa-type feeling. We were ushered into changing rooms and the fun began. No privacy here, ladies and gents…changing into swimmers with the rest of the 'team' and the changing room attendant looking on, impatiently!  Ahem. I'm no prude, but the nakedness presenting itself in all manners around me, had me and small person desperately trying to fix our gazes firmly on the floor! (Hence, there are no photos!) Once in said swimmers, special shoes were given and mine whisked away. Realising, I would be the only westerner in a 'bikini' while others were wearing more appropriate bike-pant-type attire; in a futile attempt at modesty I attempted to put my shorts and t-shirt on (at least to walk out to the pools) but was sternly told to get them off!! They were to be locked in my locker! Pronto! Then, escorted to a shower (with several onlookers) we had to quickly wash ourselves down, before being plunged into the um, springs!  The hotelier had an equally harrowing experience with the changing room attendant IN the shower with him (whilst naked) handing the shower gel. (Ahem.) Phew! We make it into the hot springs (I've managed to secure a towel around me) and we are met with a series of undercover square pools each with supposedly different health benefits. One was enticingly blood red, one was filled with giant cucumber slices, one was ridiculously freezing (although quite refreshing given by now it was 34 degrees and all the other pools were set at 38 plus!)  Entering any of these pools, discreetly, nigh impossible -- everyone keen to check out the "foreigners" in their weird bikini/surfer shorts, who clearly thought they were off for a day at the beach!  A man who appeared to be specifically on hand to straighten shoes, hovered about while we hung our towels up and slipped our rubber shoes off.  Ava was given a floating ring and from there on in was happy as a pig in mud (cucumber).  Meantime, the hotelier and I tried to stifle our giggles at the 'unusual' situation.  We were given an hour and a half to absorb the tranquility. Sun lounges were dotted around, so you could relax (or sleep as we discovered most were). We later discovered some outdoor hot pools, much more to our Aussie sun-loving taste. After we had successfully turned ourselves into shrivelled prunes and inhaled the serenity (and dehydrated ourselves in the extreme heat) there was more relaxing to come! We were chaperoned upstairs into the 'massage/movie' room where 18 plush brown velvet chairs awaited us ….as we've now come to expect, many were fast asleep….and on the TV, a national geographic type program about rodents, played loudly. Down the hall some of the team had opted to play 'mahjong' - China's famous board game.  Not the hotelier and I - we'd put our hand up for a massage, naively thinking we'd be taken into a private room….but alas this 'full' body massage was to be done right here amongst the masses….  I won't lie, it was quite good, especially after a thousand metre hike (apart from the part where my eyeballs and inside of my ears were massaged?!) And if I could just switch off the snoring sounds opposite me, the noisy Chinese game show now blasting out from the TV and the sheer horror that my bottom was being shaken in front of, God only knows who)!  Successfully pruned, prodded pummelled and fuelled with a glass of warm Fanta, our next stop, dinner!  This was a very authentic Chinese restaurant, with pretty red lanterns swinging in the breeze. We were ushered into two separate dining rooms which wore the hallmarks of the ancient chinese style homes in the north of China, including a giant, wooden bed. (Apparently due to the extreme cold and 'paper' windows, these beds used to have fires underneath to keep them warm!) Note: Now successfully used for children's play area. This was a distinctly northern style feast (when I say northern, I'm talking close to Russia!) although it included the ubiquitous pig's ear, not to mention an entire chicken, including it's head in this enormous bowl of soup (which was actually pretty tasty) and my favorite Xi'an style burger 'Man Tou'….very doughy bread with pork! Dessert involved a very sticky rice (which by the way, the Chinese used to use as a substitute for concrete in ancient times)! Who knew! The elusive bottle was perched on the table, we eyed suspiciously as Baijiu - but it turned out to be sweet rice wine, served in thimble sized glasses, followed by a glass or two of local beer. All tuckered out….what better way to finish off the day than with a spot of skipping!!  Team building day - a success! Definitely 'out of the ordinary' but a bucket-list load of fun! This is China!   Visiting Xi'an…..and want to recreate this fun experience for yourself!  Get cultural in China! Where: Mt Li Shan or Shan Li, Lintong District, Xi'an Lunch: “Mao Hu Zi” (bushy Beard) Huaqing Aegean International Hot Spring Resort & Spa Dinner:“Lishan Shi San Hua”   Proud to share this post on Seychelle Mama's monthly #MyExpatFamily series … [Read more...]

Shanghai Shenanigans: A Weekend in the Paris of the East

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It might be called the 'Paris of the East' but to me, back then, it was the wild west!  I first visited Shanghai from Hong Kong about four years ago. My initial impressions? 'Wow! So this is the real China?!' It was big, it was busy, it was bedlam! And this was explicitly apparent the minute we exited the airport. At one point, I thought getting to our hotel was going to be a miracle in itself, as we watched a fight (of sorts) break out at the taxi rank….a woman clearly peeved at the driver (for reasons unbeknown to us non-Chinese speaking foreigners) had plonked herself and her suitcase promptly in front of his taxi (at the front of the line) and refused to budge! Of course, in what I now know is 'the Chinese way,' shouting ensued while we stood there with our eyes boggling, waiting for someone to call a stop to it!  In true Chinese fashion, it took quite some time. Once said suitcase and woman were removed and we were tucked up in our own taxi - driving to the hotel was another experience to behold; swerving in and out of lanes, we edged dangerously close to fellow drivers, I thought we might actually see what was on the back seat of neighboring cars.  It was the first time I realized the "which ever is bigger, gets right of way!" rule existed -- loudly and proudly, at that!  Did I mention, that includes people?  Despatched at our hotel, a little flustered, but unscathed, we remerged a little later to find burgeoning crowds, flashing neon signs and a city with attitude.  Crossing the road was like doing an obstacle course! This time though, after nine months living in north western China, as we touched down in Shanghai and edged through the streets, I nearly cried at the sophistication…a city, a real city!! No disrespect Xi'an -- I am developing  fond feelings for you with each new day, but Shanghai you had me at Hello! As the hotelier likes to tell me (often) "It's all relative!" Suddenly things seemed quite (low and behold) orderly…. the driving barely producing a bead of sweat on my raised brow, the beeping lowered to a dull roar…. and crossing the road, pretty much a non event for this China slicker. Cars  weren't using the footpath as an alternative route and crossing on the green light, perfectly acceptable.  Admittedly I'm partial to a big, strapping city, but the difference I saw in Shanghai this time was palpable… and I'm quite sure it wasn't the city that had changed. What a difference a day nine months makes. The contrast between first and second tier cities is becoming all too glaringly obvious, but that's a story for another day. Today, let's focus on the largest city in China and one of the biggest in the world with 24 million people! (Yep you read that right!) 24 million! Trivial fact: it even has the largest bus system in the world… Based on this alone, it rightly deserves a little attention, don't you think? Sassy and futuristic with its fancy, modern sky scrapers, I kinda felt like I should be in a Batman movie as we strolled along the famous Bund.  And let it be known I'm not alone….Shanghai and its famous 'TV tower' have been featured in many box office hits…including Mission Impossible and Godzilla! (It's the strange bubble-type "Meet George Jetson" tower on the right!) Set in the nation's south east, this former fishing village was once called 'Hudu' (hence the character for 'Hu' on Shanghai license plates) and is now not only the biggest city in china, but the nation's financial hub and the world's busiest container port (followed by Singapore, Shenzhen and Hong Kong). Shanghai - meaning 'top of the sea' - has over the years, emerged as a vibrant blend of cultures encompassing the modern, the traditional, the western and the oriental. Brief history lesson: the Shanghai International Settlement originated following the defeat of the Qing dynasty by the British Empire in the first Opium War (1839–1842) which saw the famous Treaty of Nanking signed. This saw Shanghai opened up to foreign trade for the first time. American and French involvement followed hot on the heels of the British, with distinct areas of settlement for the French in the south…known as the famous French Concession. All of which has given the city a rich Western cultural heritage. Is it like Hong Kong? You may well ask. Yes and no. Despite the obvious western influence in many of the buildings like this very colonial-style architecture along the Bund, and as sophisticated as it is when compared with other parts of China, it's still very evident this is mainland China. As well as glittering skyscrapers as far as the eye can see, there are also quaint little streets reminiscent of old China. Ah hello, washing is hanging out to dry in the street, literally!  In the malls, touches of the west brush the east. Those big global brands that have forged a slice of the pie in China, making themselves heard amongst the racket of local retailers. This is People's Square where the likes of McDonalds, Zara, Starbucks and Apple can be found (not to mention a barrage of brazen hawkers trying to sell cheap watches and copy hand bags….oh and other shall we say, 'questionable' things.)  To this day, every Saturday, hundreds of Shanghainese parents assemble in People’s Park for the Shanghai marriage market - in their hot little hands, resumes of their unwed children to negotiate potential hook-ups!! Speaking of 'hook ups' (in the friendly sense) if I thought I could use this opportunity to practice my Chinese, I was sadly mistaken. In Shanghai they speak a very distinct dialect - Shanghainese. Apparently Mandarin speakers can only understand about fifty per cent of this language! Um…so you can imagine my chances of understanding or being understood! Say no more. Thankfully, many of the locals speak English, now mandatory in school from first grade. Oh and if you have young kids, there's one of China's great (vintage-style) theme parks nearby! Just quietly, I'm not sure who was having more fun here!  What else to see when visiting China's most cosmopolitan city? Here's a quick list for you: Former French Concession - Today, tree lined streets boasting quirky cafes, restaurants and shops make for a great place to stroll through and explore. Xin Tian Di - With its Shikumen architecture reminiscent of old Shanghai, this is a car free area with narrow alley ways to explore the boutiques, cafes and bars. It is considered one of the first lifestyle centers in China where “yesterday meets tomorrow!" The Bund - Walk along the riverside promenade and take in the stunning city sights. Fuxing Park - In the former French Concession it was once the largest park in Shanghai. 10 ha. in size it's designed in French style, with a lake, fountains, covered pavilions, and flowerbeds. Check out the early morning dancers, card players and mahjong enthusiasts. The Oriental Pearl Tower - Shanghai's most famous landmark….468 metres high, it has a revolving tea house and sight seeing platform. The largest 'ball' can hold 1600 people! Nanjing Road - Shanghai's premier shopping area - hit this part of Shanghai for everything from big name designer brands to local silk, jade and embroidered goods. Tian Zi Fang - Originally part of the French Concession, a cute neighborhood full of small art galleries, craft shops, and cafes. The Shanghai World Financial Centre - Has an observation deck on 97th floor, where you can get a fantastic view of the cityscape and the Oriental Pearl Tower. Bund SightSeeing Tunnel - One of the city's top tourist attractions and  one of its strangest. Bizarre, triply audio-visual effects play as you travel in an automated car 'into the core of the Earth' under the Huangpu river.  The Shanghai Maglev - One of the fastest passenger trains in the world. Traveling at about 270 miles per hour, this train is the adult equivalent of the theme park ride! Water Town: Whether it's Zhujiajiao, Xikang or Nanxun, there are quite a few mini Venices close to Shanghai that you can take a day trip to. This is the Paris of the East. This is China!         … [Read more...]