They call us aliens. Yes, it’s true. On our permanent work visa that allows us to live here as a pseudo Chinese for a year, it states very clearly “Alien!” For all intents and purposes, I often feel like I have indeed been plucked from my former life, whisked past Mars, Jupiter and Saturn and plonked down on another planet, far off in the galaxy. (Cue: mini 3-wheeler truck rolling past with a pink umbrella spouting from the engine.) 12 months in, here I am! I’m sitting here looking at that bloody Pagoda! All seven concrete tiers of the ridiculously ancient, mystical monument towers over me from every angle, a constant reminder, “You’re not in Kansas anymore, Toto!” It will always be symbolic of my time here in China…it’s the first thing I saw when I arrived and if I stand outside in the very same spot (it was raining like it is today) I can easily take myself back to that moment in time…. the pit in my stomach that felt like it was so heavy it might actually bring me to my knees. Where are we, what have we done? The smiles hiding the sheer angst bubbling under the surface….the tears ready to spill without warning. It’s an intense feeling of utter alienation from everything and everyone swirling around us in a fog of foreignness. The loneliness engulfs you like a thick blanket…..(oh wait, was that smog?!) I’d lived in Hong Kong for four years, but this was an acute (and surprising) case of culture shock. I thought I had prepared myself, well….but in hindsight nothing can prepare you for the onslaught of crotchless pants, earnest street spitting and footpaths that double as roads! I jest…but in reality, my inability to crack a smile for the first few weeks was a pretty poignant sign, I was in a place far flung from any my imagination had dared to go. I will never forget the day we drove through town, all sitting in the back seat, peering out the window as we wove in and out of bedlam traffic, speeding past a world of wild, unchartered territory. Amongst the mayhem, I saw a western-looking woman walking her toddler dressed in a princess costume….all I wanted to do was wind down my window and throw my business card through the crowds at her…shouting: "Hey, I’m here!" Sheer desperation for a fellow expat in a sea of foreign faces! 12 months in and hindsight is indeed a wonderful thing! I have found my expat tribe, all plonked on the planet of Xi’an from every corner of the earth (a regular sanity check); not to mention some fascinating locals, who’re teaching me a thing or two about the phenomenon that is China. I no longer notice the intense staring at the “Laowai” with the blonde hair and strange facial features, who towers above most locals. (Yes, that’s me, I am officially tall at five feet 3.) My small person doesn’t try to wrap herself in my dress, hiding from the zealous strangers desperate to snap a picture of her pale skin and blonde locks. For the most part, she tolerates the constant clicking and we have mastered the ability to shut out the crowds slowly (but surely) closing in on us, if we dare to stop in one place for too long. (The mantra is “Keep moving!") We know enough Chinese to mutter “Enough, thanks, she’s tired” if we need to. Sometimes we even play up to the farce that is being ‘papped’ and pose with all our might in fits of giggles. Hollywood, so close but so far. We know to keep to the side of the footpath and always have one ear listening out for the distant beeps of cars/bikes/Tuk Tuks creeping up behind us….. Now, when I am in any other city that doesn’t ‘beep,’ it seems eerily quiet. We are also proudly adept at crossing the road… no longer finding ourselves stranded on one side, waiting for an eternity until all cars are seemingly absent. (This will never happen.) We know that no matter how good we think we’ve ordered something in our best Chinese, it will almost always be misinterpreted. And that’s ok. If we are lost (in translation), we can somehow muddle through enough Chinese to get to where we want to go without enduring a mild panic attack. (That said, a phone battery dying whilst out of the bubble is still a small catastrophe!) The sobering reality has dawned on me, I will forever be learning Chinese. I will never master the Chinese language in one year, let alone two or possibly even ten. It is a life-long education. (Currently, I spend a lot of the time guessing what people are saying from the one Chinese word I manage to get...my life is a world of charades.) A ride from A to B no longer induces heart palpitations or needs to be taken with wide eyes firmly shut. We can appreciate the scenery before us. I am now used to random people attempting to enter my house with a loud “Nihao” or appearing on my balcony at any time of the day or night, often with a sneaky peek at the Laowai in the gold fish bowl. The noise of loud, rumbling fire crackers cascading through the morning air is now heard without so much as a raised eyebrow; as is the tune ‘It’s a Small World’ signalling the road cleaners are out in force to spray away the desert dust. Those mysterious drones overhead I was convinced were spying on me are just kites…..(no, really)! Skim milk is an anomaly. Ask for it to practice your Chinese, but you will mostly be met with a smiling ‘Mei You!’ (Have not.) Speaking of dairy, yoghurt is a drink. Period. Must use straw at all times. The internet or lack of STILL exasperates me to the point of turning me into a crazy woman on the verge of becoming seriously unhinged, as does the constant turning on of a VPN to have access to anything remotely useful, but I figure it’s not forever, and I breathe! I’m acutely aware that everything I do, say, eat, has an alternative meaning to it in China. Tradition runs deep and is not to be messed with, like ever. If I am sick I have either worn too little or too much in the way of clothing. I will be offered coke with ginger to fix my ailment and if this fails, next stop is an IV drip, in hospital. Umbrellas are the accessory du jour, come rain, hail or shine. There is an umbrella for each season…. and never the twain shall meet. In fact a “sun umbrella” is made of reflective material to ward off the heat. White skin is king and the sun must be avoided at any cost! Even though I display clear signs of tanned sun damaged, Aussie skin, I am somehow hailed as the fair-maiden with desirable silky white skin. Note: No matter how hot it is, taking your shirt off (if you’re a man) is a no no! Rolling it up just underneath your arm pits is an accepted fashion statement. (Six pack not required!) The ubiquitous 'squat toilet' no longer sends me into state of mild panic....running for home. I can take it on with an "I am woman, hear me roar!" attitude...(who am I kidding)! There is nothing fast about Xi’an. It is the complete (end of the earth) opposite to Hong Kong’s 24 hour frenetic city on steroids pace. It's a long (noisy) wait for most things. A sense of humour isn’t a recommendation, it’s a prerequisite. So to this day, every day I am entrenched in a steep learning curve; a journey through the fascinating motherland that is China — an unparalleled universe that thankfully accepts aliens like us, in all our foreign glory! Like ET, I often want to phone home. But...we survived! A new country, a new culture, a freezing winter, heavy pollution, a scorching summer, a new school, a new job, a new hotel, a new life. One hell of an adventure. I’m glad this is not ‘my forever.’ But I'm happy it's for now. 12 months in….. this is China Proud to share this post with Seychelle Mama's #MyExpatFamily … [Read more...]
China’s Big Day Out: A Military Parade that (Literally) Stopped the Nation
It was always going to be a display of grand proportions! Beijing had been practicing for months in the lead up to V-Day Celebrations -- the 70th anniversary of the end of WWII and victory over Japan. China's government had declared September 3rd a one-off public holiday. (In true China style, Friday and Saturday were also given as holidays, with a make-up day for the nation on Sunday!) A grand military parade was to be held on Thursday - the first of such magnitude in a decade. 12,000 troops….rolling tanks, marching soldiers and aerial displays, the majestic order of the day. A monumental showcase of China's military strength. And believe you me, it didn't disappoint. I was in two minds about whether this was the best time to visit Beijing for the very first time? We were told much of the city would be in lockdown for three days. Our hotel was right in the heart of this event….a stone's throw from the famous Tiananmen Square and Forbidden City. I was feeling a bit miffed I wouldn't be able to stand on these sacred spots, but the journo in me was also a tiny bit excited to witness such a moment in China's history. In the 10 day lead up to the celebrations, a lot of things were banned in China. On the naughty list - drones and any activities involving lightweight helicopters, gliders, hot-air balloons and aerostats. VPN's (much to my horror) were cracked down on, making internet connection increasingly difficult… Beginning August 20, Beijing restricted the use of private vehicles on the city’s roads to every other day, based on even and odd numbered license plates. And of course, companies in major polluting industries were suspended. The airing of too many entertainment shows on local television was also discouraged, in favour of dramatic war-time heroics. A bid to rally the troops, so to speak and instill national pride. On the parade day itself, six of China's CCTV channels were showing continuous footage of the parade. Beijing’s two airports were shut for the parade. The skies an unusually brilliant shade of bright powder blue!! (A pollution-free Beijing is, it seems, possible if you know the right people!) There were also 2.8 million flower pots….“featuring themes of peace and victory.” Technically, the Chinese call it “The 70th anniversary of Chinese People’s Anti-Japanese War and the World Anti-Fascist War Victory Commemoration Day” There's no denying, since living on Chinese soil, I've noticed there's a definite air of tension surrounding the Japan-China relationship. (Lets not forget the shooting range half way up the mountain here in Xi’an.) Not to mention word on the street. China's history books paint a story of a nation that has failed to acknowledge and apologize for wartime atrocities. Even today much of the younger generations strongly believe there is a need for Japan to face up to its past. Dr Su Hao from the China Foreign Affairs University said: “To the public, the parade is an important event that needs to be commemorated. So to them, I think that through the parade, it also shows pride in the nation and it rallies the people. So from this point of view, they understand and support the event.” Other media described today as a deliberate message from President Xi Jinping that China is strong and has overcome past difficulties. President Xi Jinping declared, he's presenting the People’s Liberation Army as a force for peace and regional stability. Diplomatic ties between the two historic foes Japan and China have again been strained since late 2012 following a territorial dispute over uninhabited islands in the East China Sea. The spat led to large-scale anti-Japan protests across China and the boycott of Japanese goods. I’m told if you were a local seen in a Japanese car…all hell would break loose. Consequently, sales of Japanese cars slumped by around 50 per cent. Ironically though, with a few days off, many Chinese are heading up to Japan to go shopping! So perhaps still waters don't run too deep, on the street at least. In a speech to US Congress last month, Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe expressed "deep repentance" over Japan's role in World War II but stopped short of issuing his own apology. This is the first such parade to be reviewed by China's current President Xi Jinping…and it's said, he was resolutely determined to execute it well. Many world leaders were invited to the spectacle…and many accepted the invitation, including Russian President Vladimir Putin, leaders from South Korea, Pakistan, Myanmar and Vietnam and former UK Prime Minister Tony Blair. A number of Western leaders were conspicuous in their absence. Thousands of troops from other countries were brought in - including soldiers from Mexico and Fiji..to march with China's PLC. Beijing created four “military parade villages” – including one with a replica of Tiannanmen Gate — on the outskirts of the city, where the troops and military vehicles were deployed for parade rehearsals. Remarkable to watch. An interesting time to be in Beijing. An extravaganza! This is China. … [Read more...]
Eight Cultural Taboos in China You Really Ought to Know….
I’ve been skulking around China for the best part of 12 months now….and while it’s just a drop in the ocean as far as hardcore 'China' immersion goes, I am starting to piece a few bits of the puzzle together (yeh - just a few, it's a mighty big puzzle). A lot of the ‘a ha’ moments come from just being here….living it. At first, it's like a cultural tidal wave - your brain struggles to keep up with the glaringly different way of life washing over you. Everything from the values, to the lifestyle, the food, even society as a whole rushes at you, utterly consuming (and often mind boggling) different to anything you know. You can't run from it, you just have to embrace it. With time and more conversations with locals, new Chinese friends and a Chinese teacher, who’s not just guiding me through the language but also highlighting cultural tales of the ever changing Zhong Guo (China) along the way…I'm becoming more aware of what makes this fascinating country tick. The more I learn, the more my thirst for knowledge about this gigantic beast intensifies. One thing I can tell you without hesitation is, at the very heart of this nation is folklore. While China evolves in the public eye as a global powerhouse, it's still a country that’s very core is built on confucianism, legend and superstitions, all of which run deep. Over thousands of years they've rippled through the veins of one generation after another, entrenching themselves firmly in the nation's psyche. Some of those ancient beliefs are taken extremely seriously while others are told in jest. While many of these beliefs stem from legendary tales, other superstitions revolve around numbers and the language itself. Given that most Chinese words have four different meanings, a seemingly innocent word has a high chance of sounding like something else, that's errr, not so innocent. Take the number four which is 'si', you may know 'si' also means 'death'...hence many places in Asia are devoid of anything relating to 4. No 4th floor, no 4th seat, no 4th button etc..etc. It's no laughing matter! But what does give me a giggle are the few proverbs that to this day remain part of society, despite their obvious absurdity. One of my favorites has to be the green hat rule! Yep! Wearing a green hat is a major faux pas and I’ve had to instruct the hotelier to ditch any hats in this hue. THE GREEN HAT It’s all about a love triangle. The story goes…a long time a go, a married couple lived next door to a single man - who happened to be the village tailor. The woman's husband was a traveling businessman so was away regularly. You can guess what happens next, the bored housewife started having an affair with her neighbour, the tailor. She asked her lover (the tailor) to make a green hat for her husband. Every time he left the village, his wife would give her husband the green hat to wear on his trip. Little did he know, it was a ‘signal’ to the neighbor,"Husband's going out of town, I'm a free agent!" Hence, even today, if your husband is wearing a green hat, his wife is going to be under suspicion. Suffice to say, no man in China today wears a green hat, ever! In fact, even just uttering the words “wear a green hat” - “dai lu mao zi” can get you into a great deal of trouble. It sounds the same as the word for ‘cuckold’ - the husband of an adultress! And don’t even think about giving it as a gift. I'm told it will be politely declined. Consequently, there is also a famous Chinese movie called The Green Hat! THE TOFU HOUSE Meantime, the saying “Wo xi huan chi doufu” — “I like to eat tofu” is also one for men, in particular, to steer clear of. A long time ago there was a famous tofu restaurant owned by a girl who served up delicious tofu. She was also very beautiful with ivory-white skin (a sign of great beauty in China). Of course it wasn’t just the tofu people were going to the restaurant for, according to legend, men flocked to eat the tofu day after day and to look at the gorgeous girl who let the men touch her face and feel her delicate skin. (This is a lady who knew she was clearly onto a good thing!) Naturally, the wives of these men would say “Today you’ve eaten tofu again!!!” and scold their husbands for going to flirt with the pretty shop owner. Today if you say “I like to eat tofu” in Chinese, you are basically saying you like to flirt with women. NO SHOES FOR YOUR LOVER If you happen to meet someone special on Chinese shores….and a little while into the relationship you think it might be a good idea to give them a gift…maybe some new shoes you’ve seen her eyeing off or perhaps you think his shoes are just not cutting it, whatever you do, don’t buy them new shoes. Basically you're implying that you want the recipient to walk away, in other words, disappear! Oh and speaking of shoes, you all know you're supposed to take your shoes off at the door when you go to a Chinese home, right? You'll usually get some lovely fluffy slippers in return (that really don't go with your outfit)! VERTICAL CHOPTSICKS I've mentioned this before but because it's such a no no, I'll quickly touch on it again. Chopsticks are the local tools of the trade and should not be messed with. Almost every meal is eaten with a pair of Kuai zi, and it’s considered very rude to stand your chopsticks vertically in your bowl. Why? Vertical chopsticks look like burning incense. Incense burning, is associated with making offerings at graves or tombs for ancestors. So, when you’re dining at a local 'hole in the wall' or invited to a Chinese friend’s home, put the chopsticks down parallel on the edge of the bowl or on the table. THE NUMBER 250 It seems quite harmless….it’s just a number right? Wrong. No matter where you go in China, you can guarantee you will never see anything with the number 250. Period! In the shops, nothing will ever be priced at $250. Why? In Chinese 250 or ‘er bai wu’ means crazy, or stupid idiot! If you’re bargaining it’s best not to say 250! $249 or $251 is perfectly ok! 250 has even made it into the Urban Dictionary. Unless you want to insult someone it’s best to avoid these digits. DON’T SHARE A PEAR As tempted as you might be to share that juicy pear you’ve just brought at the local markets with a friend, sharing a pear with your friends or families, especially your loved ones is a big taboo in China. In Chinese, the phrase for “sharing a pear” is 'fen li', which also happens to mean 'separate!' The superstitious Chinese person will interpret this as saying you don't want to see him or her again. So unless you’re trying to give someone a big hint, keep your pear to yourself! DONT HUG IT OUT Chinese people for the most part lean to the conservative side when it comes to friendly greetings. (Which after Hong Kong's kiss on both cheeks, kind of suits me, an ever so slightly affectionately challenged being when it comes to mere strangers!) A kiss or two and a hug is often just a little bit too intense. Stand back and try for a hand shake (at the very most)! Otherwise just a polite 'ni hao' and a smile will suffice. Your forward affections will be seen as super embarrassing and awkward. On the other hand don’t be surprised to see two women (or men) walking arm and arm down the street. It’s perfectly acceptable for same sex, long time friends to be very affectionate in public. UNDERSTAND THE UMBRELLA People in China wield umbrellas just about all year round. Rain or shine, umbrellas will protect you. But just because they're so popular and come in all colours and pretty fabrics, that's no reason to give someone one as a wedding gift. The word for umbrella 'San' also means separate (go figure) so you get the gist. And if you’re at a wedding and it’s raining whatever you do, do not give the bride or groom an umbrella to shelter them. It’s a bad omen and will mean the couple is destined to separate. They'd rather get soaked, I'm sure! If this intrigued you, check out my post In with the New, Out with the Old from CNY 2013 for a gazillion other cultural do's and don'ts in the fabulous Orient. Pssst… I've only written about '8' cultural taboos in China because, well the number eight - ba sounds like fa, meaning wealth or fortune and is therefore considered very lucky! I'm not taking any chances. ;) This is China … [Read more...]
Asia Versus Europe: Let’s Play Spot the Difference!
Given it was my first time out of Asia in seven months and for the hotelier, two years (Yes! two god dam years!), it was always going to be an amusing amazing experience on all fronts! Heck, just crossing the road was going to be fraught with a little bit of excitement! And it was! "What? Errr you sure it's safe to cross on the little green man?" Apparently, yes! Yippee! Our summer destination was France! Yes, sounds quite indulgent/romantic/exotic, I know. If it makes you feel better, it was a family gathering in the north of France with a house load of kids, so you can erase any picture of us racing through fields of sunflowers in a convertible in the south of France whilst quaffing wine from the myriad of vineyards enveloping us…like so: It wasn't too shabby though. We had fields of lush wheat….stretched out in front of us like a beautiful cashmere blanket, stunning sunsets, great company (even the kids) and French food! Hello pain au chocolate, brie cheese, baguettes and French wine! Oui! Oui! And then we had Paris.....the Arc de Triomphe (circled by the Tour de France no less), the Eiffel Tower and Moulin Rouge. Ok…so it was a pretty glam holiday for us current China-dwellers. Given the circumstances, off the bat, it was obviously going to be hard not to compare. Talking countries not kids (of course)!! (Well yes, when it comes to kids given mine screeched sporadically, waking the entire homestead every night, I'd rather not go there!) But China - France? Asia versus Europe! Where to even begin! Some might say don't even bother, but for the fun of it, let's compare notes. Of course landing in France, it's hard not to notice the traffic. Mostly, for its insignificance, if anything. Instead of a game of 'eye spy' on the journey from Paris to Normandy to keep the small person amused, it was more fun to play 'Spot the Difference.' The roads were ever so orderly and everyone appeared to be managing (mostly) to stick to their own lanes…..ok so those hairy driver's zipping around the Arc de Triomphe in the middle of Paris could've probably resembled a scene straight out of downtown Xi'an, but for the most part, drivers in France were, shall we say, 'refined.' (Just don't mention the British/Aussie tourists doing circles with a dodgy sat-nav.) Mind you, as refined as they were, we did find ourselves on more than one occasion held up for more than a few minutes by road blockages in the countryside, courtesy of protests! One such protest came in the shape of traffic being ground to a halt for at least an hour....at the end of the road block, about 20 huge rigs stationed strategically across roadways, a few measly banners stating their cause and a bunch of seemingly oblivious blokes drinking beer on the roundabout! Just one police car insight. Apparently this is not unusual in France? Beeping was down to a (pleasantly) dull roar…. incredibly soothing to my now pulverized ears…the peaceful buzz of cars cruising the streets in relatively smooth fashion, a sweet symphony. Oddly, it made me a little on the nervous side though. Maybe I'm getting used to weaving through the cars in a laissez faire fashion! Speaking of stopping, um, since when did fuel stops get so fancy? Major hubs for serious coffee-refuelling at your disposal! Ok - so clearly by the very title of this blog, you'll gather I'm no coffee connoisseur, so I admit I was quite taken with the machines dispensing Kit Kat flavoured coffees. Anyone? I also came to the careful conclusion (whilst stuffing my face) in Europe just how much I miss 'normal' food. At least what I consider to be normal, anyway - as a good old Aussie bbq-loving, fish 'n' chip chewing, cheese-hoovering, seafood slurping, chocoholic. Don't get me wrong, I don't mind Chinese food, in fact give me a good plate of Dim Sum day or night but when you don't grow up with it, it's quite hard to make pig's lung and chicken feet your daily staple. No disrespect… Actually, on the food note, can I just say I was impressed with the 'service' in Paris…. people often comment that the French are notorious for being a little on the arrogant side, but for us, the fact they even spoke to us was rather refreshing. In a lot of European countries, being a waiter is a profession. I love that the middle-aged men who've obviously been on the gig for years take such pride in their service…it's almost an art, yes even in the most casual of cafes…..And language is no barrier! Mind you, I've just had a thought about the young girl who served us on one occasion in a Paris cafe and had no qualms about walking out mid service to have a smoke break at the front door. Let's call that a generation gap, shall we? The architecture is obviously different at first glance, and second.….in the country it's all cobblestones, castles and corn fields and in Paris, well what's not to love about all those dainty iron clad railings decorating the window sills …brightly colored flowers flowing freely, stunning gold statues, the magnificent Sacre-Coeur and of course the always awe-inspiring Eiffel Tower. Um did somebody say Pagoda? Incidentally, today I found myself taking a few pics of the rather impressive statues in my backyard…not quite The Colonne de Juillet but pretty slick nonetheless! Admittedly, there is also quite a lot of European influence throughout Asia. From Shanghai to Macau, even just up the road here in Xi'an, a little bit of European charm is visible. Let's talk about the language… French…. "Ooh La La!" I haven't spoken it since high school but let me reiterate, compared with 'trying to' speak Chinese, it is a dream!! Yes! I probably needed to know more than 'bonjour' and 'merci beaucoup,' but the freedom one feels when you don't have to 'sing' a language in four different pitches was highly liberating. And, signs, glorious signs that were decidedly decipherable proudly displayed before me! Put it this way, if I was in a taxi or stranded somewhere in the middle of the city, my body wouldn't kick into 'fight or flight' mode. (Any expat in Xi'an will tell you the thought of their phone battery dying whilst 'out' is their worst nightmare!) Let me just say this foreign country felt so much less foreign. In fact, when we first arrived in northern France, we almost forgot we were in a foreign country, much of it felt very English…which of course it's not really. But that's when it hits you, how different Asia really is to the West…. Without putting you off your dinner, I've got to say I reveled in the level of hygiene. Now that just sounds plain weird doesn't it! But not having to remember to use hand sanitiser Every. Single. Time we ate or Every. Single. Time we'd been out of the hotel was oh so lovely. I even (heaven forbid) laid eyes on a squat toilet, that looked relatively inviting, well as much as any toilet can. I will spare you the details, but if you've been to China you'll know what I mean. Multiculturalism….the diversity was powerful and mesmerizing to watch. Everywhere, a myriad of nationalities…all blending into the vibrant Parisian scene - vividly different skin types, hair colors and dress codes on display. Sure, in China there are other cultures in the mix, but it's mostly us few western expats meandering on the sidelines. Last but not least I can't go past that superb blue, ever so high, sky and those delicate fluffy white 'marshmallow' clouds. A rare scene in Xi'an, even on a sunny day. Fresh air! And inhale! Ahh the Eiffel Tower and all its glory…a spot for excited tourists from all over the globe to congregate and admire… and there was no mistaking the Chinese tourist. The lady decked out from head to toe in Louis Vuitton teetering on her heels waiting for her little girl to emerge from the bushes, right next to the Eiffel Tower… Ahem! And at the airport check in, ma and pa sitting on their portable seats plucked from their backpacks, while they waited for their son to deliver their passports. Not actually a bad idea, really, given the chaotic, disorganized Charles de Gaulle Airport we were unexpectedly confronted with at ten o'clock at night. There's a lot to be said for the efficiency of Asian airports! After lining up with the masses for what seemed like an eternity (two hours to be precise), we were greeted warmly with the words, 'over-sold,' 'over-booked' and 'bumped off!' Ok, so we weren't quite bumped off...but with a 12 hour long haul flight back to China in front of us it was a little mortifying to hear they had booked all three of us in separate seats. Yep, my four year old was seated on her own. Now, not that I'm saying I wouldn't love a long flight seated On. My. Own. Hell yes - movies, wine, uninterrupted sleep….but let's be real, a 4 year old can't sit on her own for 12 hours. Can she?! Apparently sitting you 'randomly' apart from each other or worse being told you're out, when you check in, is what happens…not bad if you're single and can handle an extension of your holiday with a night in a chic French hotel. Of course in all my single travels it's never happened to me. How about you? Airlines regularly overbook the number of passengers flying for the number of seats to park their behind on, because they can almost always guarantee there will be "no shows" and a lot of them. They do the same in hotels too. (Shhhh) Yep, they do the maths and then bump the ones they think they can get away with…. if you're a platinum member, a regular customer, with a family, or have booked through the hotel itself, you've got more chance of staying put (just quietly). The fact we were on a connecting flight was in our favour but the staff at check in (as helpful as they were) couldn't fix it until we got to the gate to board. So boarding pass in hand, we hightailed it, all the while I was frantically preparing my self righteous speech about how we couldn't possibly fly in such circumstances or how perhaps they might need to upgrade us to first class (surely there would be spare beds seats up the pointy end?!); or how I was quite happy for the flight attendants to have Small Person overnight if they didn't mind her being spread across their laps rolling fitfully backwards and forwards in her sleep for the entire journey! Turns out, my panic was overrated…. an incredibly calm man at check in efficiently changed our seats without so much as a "Madam, I'm sorry to say but…." and on board we went….smooth sailing. The in-flight food more than made up for it….yep, I'll admit it out loud, I am pretty tired of the oil soaked noodles and dodgy bits of chicken floating in dried up rice on most Asian flights I get. Air France your Brie cheese had me at hello. That said, coming back to 'my reality' in Xi'an, I'm instantly reminded of the intriguing and vibrantly-coloured patchwork quilt of commotion, on my doorstep! Yes, whilst, many days it has me in a state of eye rolling disbelief, it really is quite a captivating, intriguing and comical amusing place. The streets are never uniform, the people never orderly, the country is awash with uniqueness on every level and that… is NEVER dull. To borrow a quote from Forrest Gump, China's "like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get!" Chicken's feet and all! For now, this is China. … [Read more...]
Travelling the Famous ‘Silk Road’ in the 21st Century: Will You Take the Journey?
Amongst the plethora of news that permeates our daily lives from the tele, the radio, the internet, our inbox, social media….there's a small chance you may have heard (or read) a brief snippet about the re-emergence of the historic SILK ROAD? You may or may not have given it a fleeting thought….perhaps a brief 'What is that?' 'Where is that, again?' Let me enlighten you! In the broadest sense, it is the oldest overland trade route linking the ancient world from the East to the West. 2000 years ago, everything from exquisite cottons, exotic spices to metals and ceramics, scrolls of paintings, even gunpowder and of course piles and piles of cascading silk in every vivid color conceivable was carried along on the backs of camels, ferried from one side of the world to the other. By default, the Silk Road has come to my attention with a little more vigor of late because 'Xi'an' was once the eastern most point on this now renowned ancient trading route. You may have heard me mention before that Xi'an has been a city of great significance. (And of course as every local will tell you, it still is!) ;) The capital of 13 dynasties over 1200 years, Xi'an is by no means to be underestimated. And now, it looks like it may return to its former glory with a pledge from Chinese President Xi Jinping to rebuild the Silk Road - in his 'One Belt, One Road' initiative. So perhaps you're wondering why this city, seemingly in the middle of nowhere became such a significant hub for trade in the first place? At the risk of turning this into a history lesson and boring both of us senseless, I'll be as short and sweet as possible with the details. It formerly began in the Han Dynasty (around 206 BC to 220 AD) when emperors got word there was a rich and strong state in the West, (namely India). The Han Emperor 'Wu Di' sent his men to investigate but they were captured along the way (for ten years no less). Managing to escape a decade later, amazingly they set off continuing the mammoth journey to India. Emperors soon realized the huge potential for trade and commerce and the travelers were sent back along the vast and arduous stretch with an abundance of items in their load, including China's famed silk, which quickly became a hit and reached as far as Rome, where it became a valued commodity. (Until this time, silk in China was precious and protected. Reserved exclusively for the Chinese ruler and his wife, inside the palace they wore robes of pure white silk, outside yellow was the colour of the season.) Gradually though, it became more acceptable for all classes of society to wear tunics made from the prized silk. Then it became used for industrial goods like musical instruments and fishing lines, even paper… At one point it was as valuable as gold and farmers even paid their taxes in silk. Thus, the Silk Road began in Xi'an (which was then known as Chang'an) and wove through the Hexi Corridor (West of the Yellow River) to Dunhuang, where it divided into three routes, the southern, the central and Northern. All wound through unmarked and treacherous pathways along the edges of deserts and over mountain roads, through the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous region as far as Pakistan, India and Rome. Trivial Fact: The Silk Road is actually a collective name given to three ancient trade routes…the Silk Road in the North west of China, the Southern Silk Road and the Silk Road on the Sea. Caravans of camels stretching as far as the eye could see, one behind the other, wound their way through rugged terrains day and night carrying important cargo. According to history the two humped camels (bred specifically for the Silk Road) were the most capable of managing the diverse landscape. Few people traveled the 6,500 kilometre Silk Road stretch from one end to the other as great explorer Marco Polo did in 1271. His detailed descriptions of China's culture, politics and economy encouraged and inspired other Westerners to travel to this vast land in the East. For China, the effects of the Silk Road on industry were felt immediately and as you might imagine, the birth of the Silk Road brought all sorts of strange and wonderful ideas to China --- politics, family relationships, philosophy and religion were forever exposed to new concepts. This was the original information super-highway…carrying everything from goods to philosophy (even disease)! In 652, a Chinese Monk returned from India after spending 18 years studying Buddhism..with him he brought manuscripts and Buddhist texts to be transcribed into Chinese. These were housed in the temple which ironically stands tall directly across the road from the Westin Hotel…The Big Wild Goose Pagoda. Meantime, Xi'an was a hustle and bustle of activity. Outside Xi'an's majestic city wall, traders camped in colorful tents; clusters of camels were tied up outside the wall….while merchants offloaded and stocked up on supplies. The frenzied trade from Arab merchants saw the emergence of the colorful, vibrant hub that is today one of Xi'an's most famous tourist destinations, the Muslim Quarter. Merchants and Silk Road traders locals called the 'Hui' people settled here and many married Han Chinese women. Today many of their descendants still remain here. A tight knit community, the Muslim Quarter covers several blocks and houses 20,000 people, including ten mosques. A buzzing hive of activity, a unique blend of Muslim culture and Chinese tradition is on display in the maze of narrow lane ways, branding a multitude of traditional food and souvenir stalls. Veer off the main stretch and you'll see fascinating sights as the locals busily go about their day. Wooden bird cages sit at the feet of retailers, rickety bikes lean up against small shops, and heavy cauldron-like pots bubble away out the front, wafting delicious smells from traditional dumplings to baked bread, tasty meat skewers and crisp toffee, even fresh pomegranate juice, pressed on the pavement. So while it's clear the Muslim Quarter is alive and well today, what happened to the good old Silk Road? Eventually, overland trade just became increasingly dangerous and travel by sea was naturally more popular; trade along the Silk Road declined and by the end of the 14th Century it was almost non-existent. You can still see the ruins of the once flourishing capitals that dotted the Silk Route. Five centuries later, and the current President of China has flagged the idea of a rebirth of the Silk Road, an Economic Belt if you like (which is of course being hotly pursued by the world's global powers, eager to solidify their influence in the East and West.) It was 2103, when President Xi Jinping first made the announcement, but ironically it barely got a mention in the global media. Two years later it's a different story. As the centerpiece of of the President's foreign policy and an international economic strategy, it's all systems go. Goodbye camels and hello trains that will be capable of transporting goods 12,000 kilometres from China to the Mediterranean, much master than by sea. China's challenge -- to design this new super highway while reducing prohibitive import and export tariffs so business between the East and West can thrive. It has the potential to channel 150-million tourists to those countries along the new Silk Road. China also plans to attract 85 million tourists on home soil. The estimated cost: $21-trillion. Currently there are 200 projects underway, including $80 billion dollars to upgrade connectivity with at least 15 new regional air hubs in places like Xi'an, Xiamen and Kunming. 21 years ago, 19 countries gathered in Uzbekistan to discuss the rebirth of this legendary route…today the reality is closer than ever. So the next time you hear or see a snippet on the news about the mystical Silk Road….you'll understand the significance in reinventing this historic trade route, particularly for Xi'an. Currently the biggest city in the country's north west, in the next couple of decades it will supposedly double its urban population to become a mega-city! Stay tuned. This is China! … [Read more...]
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