7:50am, I check the weather app. It's just nudging one degree. Coat? Check. Gloves? Check. Hat? Check. Mask? Check! Schoolbag, let's go. Now that I am into my second winter in North West China, I like to brag that I'm perhaps a little more hardy. Wrapped tightly in thermals last year, now I can probably go without the gloves and the hat, if it's just a quick drop off. The mask, no. It's the crucial must-have accessory you can't leave home without (during winter at least) and it's not just any old mask. This baby provides superior protection and comes complete with its own air filter. (Bonus, it comes in many different colours and designs! Cue hashtag #StayingStylishinSmog !) Just for the record, we did manage an entire spring/summer without so much as a whiff of bad air. No masks required. Currently, I find myself checking the AQI (aka Air Quality Index) on the pollution app more frequently than I check the weather app. I cringe as I watch it turn purple and flick to above 200. The words "Heavily Polluted" glare at me. The little red icon beside it telling me to make sure I wear a mask and avoid outdoor activities. Just to put it into perspective, the World Health Organisation deems 25 micrograms per cubic metre to be a healthy level. Last year we'd just arrived and I was conveniently oblivious to the smoggy haze we encountered....especially when many locals dismissed it as fog! To be fair though, the pollution at the same time last year was (literally) nothing to write home about. This year, winter has only just begun and the sunny, clear days are in short supply. There's talk amongst those who've been here longer that it's a return to earlier years when it was like a scene from the movie, The Apocalypse. Perhaps last year, we just got lucky. (Thoughts of our impending trip to Malaysia's clear air and sunshine currently keeping me from climbing under the covers and staying put for the duration of winter!) There's no hiding my head in the sand (or the covers) though, whether I want to or not, life must go on! And whether I like it or not, I'm starting to learn a lot more about 'pollution' - checking the map and recognising the danger zones....keeping a close eye on the PM2.5 levels. (They're the worst apparently and when the line on your phone turns purple, it's not pretty). They are scarily the tiniest of tiny air particles that are finer than a human hair and can slip inside your lungs. Anything above 200 on the monitor and our international school is in lockdown, no one goes out to play. Air purifiers and humidifiers are buzzing in classrooms 24/7. We are about to purchase our third air purifier for our apartment. At local Chinese schools though, life continues on as per usual. Not in Beijing today though. China's capital has issued it's first RED alert. Ever. (This is the highest level in the system.) It's effective for 53 hours and imposes the toughest restrictions on activities that may contribute to the pollution levels, including a ban on the use of half the city's cars - which is nearly 2.5 million cars a day. (Even number plates one day, odd the next.) Heavy goods vehicles are barred from the roads with subway services extending operating hours to cope. Major companies in polluted industries must restrict or suspend production. Activities at all construction sites are banned. Schools closed. During this time the government is assuring that all major power plants, steel and metal works, coking and cement factories are under investigation, presumably to weed out those not following regulations. China is the world's largest greenhouse gas emitter, but says it aims to halve its emissions peak by 2030. During last week's climate talks in Paris, as President Xi Jinping promised to play an active role, we watched as the pollution embarrassingly topped hazardous levels, reaching 745 in some places. There was much criticism over the government's failure to post a red alert. In Xi'an last week it wasn't much better. At one point, it reached an alarming 500. Friends gave up trying to get to work. A freeway lost in a cloud of pea soup...cars were colliding left, right and centre; some lost and on the wrong side of the road! Flights were cancelled and the airport was chaos. Miraculously a day later, the levels dropped and our phones lit up with vibrant green alerts, signalling 'Excellent' weather. Admittedly, I'm still really no clearer as to what 'exactly' causes the pollution here in China. Ask locals, read the papers, check websites and there are a multitude of reasons given; from low temperatures so early in the season, to the low quality coal that is burned across north China in the winter to fuel the heating. From the number of factories pumping out emissions to keep up with world demand (yes, as the world's factory floor, the production levels are intense) to farmer's on a harvesting mission...... and with a population in the billions rapidly growing it's wealth status, the sheer number of cars now trawling the roads. Trivial Fact: In 2012 Chinese consumed nearly 4 billion tons of coal, almost as much as the rest of the world combined. Whatever the culprit, and perhaps we'll never really know -- with no wind in sight, pollutants tend to hover near ground level...last week we watched the wind blow through, miraculously dispersing the pollutants, making way for five days of crystal clear blue skies. Heaven. We've also seen what happens when the government signals a crack down -- coal burning slows and the factories are told to operate at the bare minimum; then like magic, blue sky reigns supreme and the air is suddenly pure. The world watched on in amazement last September as a sunny, blue Beijing presented a show-stopping military parade to mark the 70th anniversary of the end of World War II. They didn't just 'get lucky' for months leading up to the spectacle, China enforced strict rules in a barefaced attempt to reduce pollution. Today, on the school run, much to my relief, I spot more locals wearing masks -- news of the sky rocketing levels clearly filtering through. That said, I still spy Xi'an's senior citizens out on the exercise equipment in the local park, mask free, continuing on with their daily routine, most likely unphased by the sooty, bleak skies above. After all..... This is China. And breathe....(or not). Proud to share this over on Seychelles Mama's #MyExpatFamily … [Read more...]
20 Top Tips for Booking a Hotel! (From the hotelier’s wife…)
As the hotelier's wife, I’m privy to a few inside whispers…and you’ll be pleased to know, over the years, I’ve been secretly stashing them in the vault, otherwise known as my 'hotel file.’ (Shhh…don't tell the hotelier.) As an expat for almost five years, we've been ultra privileged to travel around Asia and beyond a significant number of times, as a single couple - but mostly with the 'Small Person.’ From city to the beach stays, I've collected a few worthy pieces of info along the way. And the small but handy fact, that we now live in a hotel has also served me well on the advice front. With that in mind, I thought it was high time I shared my two cents worth, (for what it's worth)! A few sneaky tips to think about next time you're planning your holiday and want to book a hotel. #1 GET LUCKY IN THE LOW SEASON When you book your holiday, if it's possible (and I know, often it's not with school holidays, work etc) DO pick the low season - even holidaying just before or just after a major holiday will get you a better deal and a higher possibility of a room upgrade. #2 THE HOTEL WEBSITE IS YOUR BEST BET With the big chain hotels, in theory you shouldn't be able to find a cheaper rate on a third-party website; most big players have 'best rate guarantee' where they guarantee the lowest rate through their own channels. Booking with a third party can mean you're provided with a less impressive room and receive less recognition as a guest. Tip: It pays to challenge the rate you see on the website. #3 PRE-PAY FOR LESS If you pre-pay your booking in advance, you should generally get a better room rate…anything between ten and 50 per cent cheaper than the going rate is possible. Ask if they have a pre-paid rate or check the website. #4 INVESTIGATE YOUR DESTINATION When booking a hotel, be sure to check off the dates you're going with the local calendar. For example, religious holidays could mean everything's closed down for the day/week; public holidays (especially in China) might mean your hotel is inundated with a plethora of frenzied guests. Check the weather and try to avoid typhoon season or the wet season. Note: Typhoon season doesn't have to mean bad weather and can mean lower rates. Check whether you need a visa for your port of call as well, as often these can take time to process. #5 RESEARCH REAPS REWARDS If you haven't heard about your hotel of choice through word of mouth, it pays to research your preferred destination on line with reputable travel sites like Trip Advisor or Ctrip. Get the lowdown warts and all. See what other travellers think. #6 FRIENDLY FLIGHTS Before you fall in love with a holiday destination and start dreaming of long walks on the pristine beach, check flights including any connecting flights to make sure it's doable and won't cost the earth. Sometimes the hotel's dirt cheap but just getting there costs a small fortune. If you're only going for a few days, budget flights can be at more unsociable hours, making it a marathon effort to get there. Is it worth it for just a few days? #7 RESORT VERSUS CITY Be clear in your mind about what you need. If you have kids, resorts are more inclined to have a 'Kid's Club'…..less so an 'Executive Club.' Look for brands that have kid's programs and remember not all will have a baby sitting agency. A lot of hotels have a policy where they can't recommend baby sitters for fear of liability. Be aware if you do choose a resort holiday…it may well be a beautiful resort in the middle of nowhere, but this will also mean your dining options are limited. The hotel knows this all too well and the cost is likely to reflect this. #8 EXCHANGE RATE EXPECTATIONS It pays to check the exchange rate before you travel so you know whether eating out and activities are going to be more expensive than you expected. #9 A HEALTHY START AT A HEALTHY RATE Ordering breakfast daily in advance, so it's included in your room rate, will be more cost effective than paying at the restaurant door or at check in. If you haven't, on your check in, it's well worth asking if there's a special rate given if you sign up for daily breakfast then and there. #10 EXECUTIVE CLUB ENTRY If you plan on spending quite a bit of time in the hotel, eating breakfast and indulging in a few evening beverages, paying the extra to be part of the Executive Club is worth it. It includes free breakfast and a drink or two plus snacks in the evening. Note: Many hotels don't allow children in their executive clubs. #11 FAMILY FACTS Bigger families often need interconnecting rooms and a lot of hotels simply don’t have the right configuration for an average family. If you book a 'Twin Room' the 'single' beds in ‘higher level’, newer hotels are bigger than average and usually fit two of you. Note: Sometimes it's cheaper to purchase a suite rather than two interconnecting rooms. #12 ROLL-AWAY BEDS AREN'T FREE If you have kids, it pays to ask whether the room has a sofa bed. You will more often than not be charged for an extra roll-away bed - which is surprisingly not always cheap. Alternatively, check if the room has enough space for a blow up bed…otherwise if there's a king sized bed, perhaps there's no need for that extra sleeping space. Some hotels (if they know you have additional people in the room) will try to charge for extra linen. #13 NEW BABY IN TOW Often you're better paying that bit extra for a higher standard hotel. They will have baby bottle sterilisers, cots, high chairs, and can bring microwave ovens to the room for heating food. #14 A BALCONY WITH BENEFITS If you have children, it's often good to have a balcony…even a little one. At least you've got somewhere to go when you've put the kids to bed instead of sitting in the dark, barely breathing in case junior wakes up! If you've got a little one, still sleeping in a cot you can always wheel them into the walk-in-wardrobe until you go to sleep so it's quieter for them and you can at least watch TV. (Naturally I'm not condoning locking them in for the night!) #15 SWIMMING CHECK In Asia, in particular, a lot of swimming pools are indoors, so if you plan on a relaxing holiday in the sun….check first. If you're in a resort make sure the hotel has free towels and kid's toys. #16 MINI BAR MISHAPS Watch out! A lot of mini bars in big hotels these days are automated. This means if you remove anything from it - you will be automatically charged. Checking out the local brew could prove to be a costly exercise. If it's not automated, why not stock the bar with your own beverages. Stop off in duty free and grab a couple of your favourite bottles. A lot of country's high import taxes mean alcohol can be notoriously expensive in a hotel. #17 WATER WOES Just because a hotel has a 5-Star rating doesn't mean their water is 5-star quality. Hygiene standards differ greatly depending on the country you're in and some sewerage systems are more antiquated than others making the water unsafe to drink or even brush your teeth. Do your research. #18 COMPLIMENTARY STUFF At most big brand hotels, kids between three and 12 years old eat for free at the hotel buffet restaurant. Most big hotels have complimentary bottles of water, but be careful - there is often a mix of complimentary and charged mineral water in the room. The charged for bottles usually have a tag displaying the charge. (You didn't hear this from me, but if you hide the water bottles, you'll get more delivered.) ;) Many hotels will have a free shuttle bus to take you to and from town or into the hub of your surroundings. #19 INTERNET Make sure you know in advance whether the internet is free or not. Many luxury hotels still charge and this can sting you financially if you're unaware. Some of the big players include free wifi if you book through their own website #20 LOYALTY COUNTS It's well worth signing up to the hotel's loyalty program, if they have one. Why? Lots of perks including the chance to get a better room, a discount off your food and beverage, potentially free internet and less chance of getting moved if the hotel overbooks! Happy Holidays from Mint Mocha Musings: The Hotelier's Wife, An Expat Affair in Asia Psssst.... If you think someone else might benefit, please share it. That would mean a lot to me! ;) … [Read more...]
Music, Mirror Balls and Microphones: This is China’s Most Popular Pastime!
Just quietly, I had been avoiding her like the plague! It wasn’t easy though….everywhere I looked, every corner I turned, there she was. Standing tall, bold and brassy…. Her name staring down at me, beckoning me to see what all the fuss was about. They call her, KTV. Westerners may know her by another name. Karaoke. It’s not that I don’t like a good sing-a-long….but considering I’m tone deaf, these are normally held in the privacy of my own home. So, I was at a bit of a loss as to why KTV had her clutches on most of the Chinese population’s social life. Outside of Tai Chi and drinking tea, KTV reigns supreme across most of Asia. For Chinese locals, KTV is their answer to our night at the pub or that slick new cocktail bar. KTV is a beacon of light where anyone can feel like a super star, week days, week nights, weekends! Whether you’re young or old, a student, a mum, a businessman or the CEO, KTV enthrals them all with her razzle dazzle. Birthday, business meeting, staff get together or hot date with your other half….KTV is your girl. Trivial fact - a survey in 2013 found there were almost 20-thousand KTV’s in China. So when my expat friends announced a big KTV night out for a birthday party, my stomach did a little flip flop…. but admittedly I was also curious to see why she was so dam popular. Step inside the KTV realm and her charm is evident. Chandeliers glisten in the foyer; neon lights fuel the anticipation. (Of course in true Asian style, she also comes in a myriad of themes. Think Hello Kitty, The Lion King, Super Mario….vintage and super opulent!) The first thing that caught me by surprise was the mini supermarket. I guess I was expecting a bar of some description not a 7/11 perched amongst the glitz. This is where you grab your shopping cart and stock up with supplies, namely booze and snacks. The staff will then escort you to your own room. You see, KTV is all about privacy. Inside the massive building are dozens of smallish, sound proof rooms with their own Karaoke box. Oh and just for the record there are some KTV venues that offer more than a stage and some snacks. In some, I’m told, you get girls! Lines of women are brought in for your selection to ahem… “serve” you. Thankfully all that was brought into us was the shopping carts, packed with our goodies. Including these tasty morsels. (Let's not mention the fact we were moved rooms due to our hostesses fear of us being electrocuted!?) Time to kick back and settle in on the leather bench seats that wrap around the room….which for all intents and purposes holds a myriad of mirror balls, microphones and maracas! OK, there aren’t maracas, that just sounded good... but there are tambourines! Which immediately piqued my interest. She can’t sing but she can shake!! There’s a small stage but mostly everyone’s in their seat or up on the dance floor, microphone in hand. We regrettably took kids, and it was head-splitting noisy, until they inadvertently found their own room! Hellelujah! A lot of the songs are naturally in Chinese, but there are also plenty of English pop songs to whisk you back to the eighties (just don’t expect too much in the way of music videos, apparently rights to use the footage is limited, making for some rather dodgy clips on display). That said, as soon as I heard Dirty Dancing’s 'Hungry Eyes' belt out from the machine, I was back in high school dreaming about Patrick Swayze... and I was sold! KTV you had me at hello! This is one cultural phenomenon I might embrace…..maybe. After all, this is China. … [Read more...]
Expat Life in Hong Kong Versus Mainland China: Is There a Difference?
Hell yes! I get asked the question all the time….and that's pretty much my answer! No, ok, so I do try to expand on that, but it's not quite that simple. I spent four years in Hong Kong and I won’t lie, I fell in love. Really, what’s not to love about the ‘City that Never Sleeps!’ I’ve written numerous posts on the mighty Kong…and all that it encapsulates and I’m sure my affection for the glittering harbour city leaps off the pages. The million dollar question: “Will I fall in love with Xi’an?” To be honest, probably not in quite the same way. But, (yes there’s a but)… I do know, that when it comes time to leave Xi'an -- this city will have snuck in and grabbed a little piece of my heart, craziness and all. Time does that. Often whether you like it or not. You make memories, good and bad….you form a bond with the city and its people…and before you know it, you find yourself being a little over protective about the new love in your life. Pollution?? What pollution! Pfftt! (She says choking through her new (stylish) mask!) But let’s get down to the nitty gritty, because despite both cities technically belonging to China, they are chalk and cheese! POLITICS Hong Kong is an SAR - Special Administrative Region of China which means it still (for all intents and purposes) governs itself but remains under the control of the People's Republic of China. Under British rule for 156 years, the great 'handover' to China took place in 1997. As you can imagine, this makes Hong Kong a fascinating blend between the East and the West. As you may also imagine, a large part of Hong Kong's population grapples with the idea of being under the Motherland’s umbrella… which as we saw with the protests last year, can create a lot of friction (to say the least). For more on the relationship between the two, you can read my post: Not Made in China. There's a somewhat icy relationship between the two and it shows no sign of thawing, admittedly more evident when you're in Hong Kong. In Xi'an many people have never even been to Hong Kong (one reason being: they are not allowed to fly directly) so to locals this 'fragrant harbour,' remains an enigma. For me, as an expat now living on the Mainland, the two governments make for some interesting lifestyle challenges differences. Whilst Hong Kong experiences the freedom of the Western world, the Communist Party of China's rules on censorship are strict and probably what affects my day to day activities the most. My regular haunts on the computer are banned (Facebook, Google, Twitter and many, many websites). Often news stories are only shared on television and in newspapers with a local twist (if they’re shown at all) making it difficult to stay in touch with the real world. Yet, Somehow I manage. ;) As for using the internet, at all.. let's just say it can be the stuff of genuine nightmares (first world problems I know)! But the government runs the only two internet companies and the connection is extremely patchy…(especially after coming from HK where the internet speed is amongst the fastest in the world)! In mainland China, your internet usage is also monitored (yes everything you are looking at, they're probably looking at too). The magic VPN’s help us connect with the outside world but the government is continually cracking down on these in a bid to make it increasingly difficult for foreigners to log on to their favourite spots. (And breathe!) LANDSCAPE Located in the south of China, Hong Kong is a harbour city, which means oodles and oodles of water, tropical islands, beaches, outdoor pools, junk boats, not to mention lush green mountains, all wrapping around a sparkling skyscraper city! Need I go on?! On the flip side, summer in Hong Kong is ridiculously humid, so humid you continually feel like you have just poured a bucket of warm water over your head and must make friends with the shower several times a day. It's also in the path of plenty of typhoons! (Mind you expats love this....a T8 means take the day off!) Xi’an on the other hand, is in the far north west of China, in fact it’s not all that far from the desert and is completely land locked! It’s not unlike a dust bowl. In the heart of the summer months with temps in the 40s for several weeks, the heat is dry and oppressive. Nonetheless, it boasts one of the most authentic Chinese looking cities on the map. Paved with stunning architecture and ancient monuments, this is the real deal! Winter in Hong Kong is relatively mild, whilst in Xi’an things step up a notch with minus temps and often snow. (Bring on the snow fights!) HISTORY Both cities are steeped in monumental history. Hong Kong boasts fascinating stories of powerful clans, marauding pirates and European traders. But when you're talking cities and history, Xi’an is hard to beat. It was the start of the epic Silk Road and has been the capital of China for 10 dynasties! It harbours some incredible sights that are thousands of years old (those famous Terracotta Warriors just one that brings millions of tourists here all year round). In both cities it's hard not to be swept up in their traditions, but Xi'an definitely captures a moment in time that nowhere else does. To that end, Xianese are fiercely proud. As an expat it's hard not to become enthralled with a city that has experienced so much. LANGUAGE Both country’s predominant language is Chinese, but in Hong Kong they speak Cantonese while in Xi’an (and the rest of China) it’s Mandarin (mind you there are many, many dialects)! Hong Kong still uses Traditional Chinese characters for writing, while the Mainland use what they call Simplified Chinese (if you can call anything about these complex characters, simple)! Hong Kong’s western roots means English is much more widely spoken. In Xi’an, not so much. Hence while I escaped the need to learn Cantonese in HK, here in Xi'an, learning Mandarin is virtually unavoidable. (For most expats, that can be both a good and bad thing!) ;) FYI: Both are what they call 'tonal' languages, Cantonese has nine different tones, Mandarin four (so I guess you could say, I’m lucky?!). Naturally this small but pertinent issue makes my daily life somewhat more challenging living in Xi’an. EXPATS Even the type of expats differ between the two cities. Of course, Hong Kong is king when it comes to being a haven for expats. There are around 300,000 currently calling the Fragrant Harbour home. In Xi'an, we are pushing 1000. As the world’s financial hub, Hong Kong is one of the most sought after cities in the world and consequently attracts expats from all over the globe, largely in professional roles like banking and IT. (1st tier Chinese cities, Shanghai and Beijing obviously boast bigger numbers.) In Xi’an, the majority of expats tend to be either teachers at international schools and universities or managers of some description at big factories like Samsung and Boeing. The very nature of both cities and their trades, means day to day lives are a little different. Picture a weekend in the Kong: Cashed up bankers roaming Lang Kwai Fong, swilling back a jelly shot or two; consuming copious amounts of dim sum for Sunday brunches in one of the city’s myriad of restaurants, often with a view over a stunning harbour…HK expats are filling up their lives with jaunts on Junk boats and heavenly high teas! I do jest, (just a little) but the clincher is, those champagne brunches are much more doable in a place like Hong Kong where most families have the privilege of a live in Domestic Helper (Nanny). In Hong Kong the helper is quite the phenomenon. Affordable and for most expats, compulsory. If you get caught up in Hong Kong's bubble you may find yourself living the highlife on more nights than is probably legal. No wonder there are 8000 restaurants in the Mighty Kong. Here in China they do have “Ai Yi’s” - the helper equivalent but they are more common in the bigger expat cities like Shanghai. They’re not really expensive but it’s less of the norm here for them to mind the kids, it’s more about some cleaning and possibly a bit of cooking, (if you can handle the local fare). And finding one that speaks any English round these parts is truly a rare commodity. So in Xi’an on the socialising front, more often than not you’ll find yourself at a friend’s home….(heck there really aren’t too many western restaurants in Xi’an with a view anyway!) It’s local Hot Pot and noodles all the way. No matter which country you're residing in, expats will tell you they rely on each other as their pseudo family. The more foreign the place, the more you need your peeps! REAL ESTATE In Hong Kong, it’s really no secret, it’s one of the most expensive places to live in the world. Rent is exorbitant and the return is usually a rather small shoe box for living quarters.. We lived on the 43rd floor of a smallish apartment building, next to the world’s 7th tallest building - it was conveniently located above a shopping centre, train station and host of international restaurants. In Xi’an, we live in a spacious apartment in a four story hotel, next to a 1300 year old Pagoda temple! There are shopping centres and street food carts at my door, not to mention cars driving on the footpath. (Did I mention room service?) What’s the difference in dollars? I’m talking around 5000 RMB rent a month in China compared to say 20,000 RMB in HK (on the cheaper side) — 10,000 RMB compared with around 60,000 RMB on the average side. The difference in price and space is quite remarkable! PUBLIC TRANSPORT Getting around Hong Kong is a no brainer. In truth, probably one of the easiest cities in the world. Geographically its small and that helps. The local MTR (subway) system is fast, efficient, cheap and simple. HK’s iconic red taxis crawl the roads 24/7 and are pretty reasonably priced. Here in Xi’an taxis are not so much part of the equation….for expats anyway. Firstly, because getting one is about as easy as climbing the Great Wall. One look at the foreigner and they’re scared off, for life. We have no clue how to tell them where we are going and they’re not going to get into that sort of predicament (which can also happen in HK I might add). The train system is reasonable but nothing compared to Hong Kong's; so it’s generally (extremely overcrowded) busses all the way, unless you’re game enough to jump into a Tuk Tuk (local three wheeler), or get yourself a scooter! A lot of expats in Xi’an have drivers (many come with the company contract) for the sheer fact that English is minimal and getting public transport isn’t easy; in theory it's great, but the inability to get around on your own can mean a lack of spontaneity! Some of the braver expats I know, ride bikes and scooters! Kudos to them! HEALTH Hong Kong's healthcare is considered to be up there with some of the best systems in the world. Its people have the longest life expectancy, so that's saying something isn't it! With numerous private hospitals that are predominantly state of the art, as long as you have health insurance, as an expat you are generally in good hands. There are a wealth of local GP's (many English speaking) and once you get used to them handing out your medication over the counter in tiny packets, it's pretty manageable. I had my daughter in a Hong Kong hospital, the doctors were first rate and the facilities were even better. In Xi’an it is rather a different story. Naturally the language barrier makes things difficult to begin with if you're a foreigner. While there is now an international hospital in Xi'an, most expats I've spoken with, if seriously ill, would choose to fly out of China. There is no such thing as a local GP, you generally go to the hospital for any of your ailments and see a doctor there. No appointment necessary, but potentially a long wait. Many of the treatments are quite different to those you would receive in the West as is some of the medication you'll be given. Hygiene as you might know it in the West, does not appear to be at the forefront of hospital staff minds. (Read more about it here.) For many expats living in China, outside a first tier city, healthcare is often the biggest concern. SHOPPING Ahhhh shopping….one of my favourite things... There's a good reason Mainlanders flock across the border at Shenzhen into Hong Kong, the shopping capital of the world where there are more LV stores than Paris! The tax on local products in China means it is more expensive in Xi'an and believe it or not, whilst everything is apparently "made in China" it's certainly not always available in China. Why? You can read about it here. Stocking up on supplies in Hong Kong has become a regular part of my life. (And to think when I first lived in Hong Kong, I would restock back in Australia.) In Hong Kong, the local Post Office is a world away from those 'one stop super stores' I know in Australia. Think your basic warehouse type scenario for ingoing and outgoing mail and nothing more. Sending and receiving mail is relatively cheap and easy though....although there are occasions when your mail can take weeks to arrive! In Xi'an receiving mail is like playing lotto! Highly unlikely it will arrive, but occasionally you get lucky. CULTURE Both cities have their cultural nuances. Hong Kong is filled with a world of oriental practices and traditions...Xi'an is heaving with its own ancient beliefs and colourful folklore. There is a distinct difference in world views. Most Hong Kongers have travelled outside of Asia, but in Xi’an very few know what life is like outside of China…and for them, this world they have been sheltered from is naturally a little intriguing and most likely a little intimidating. Most Xianese are content to spend the rest of their lives here. A world that is fascinatingly simple and sacred, as an expat daily interaction with locals is challenging for both language and cultural reasons. 'Face' plays a huge role in most Asian cultures but in Xi'an it's an integral part of everyday life. You never quite know what's going on behind the 'face'. It's in Chinese DNA not to say no. While Xian moves at a relatively slow, relaxed pace - in stark contrast the frenetic pace of Hong Kong is unrivalled. There's a reason they call Hong Kong the 'City that Never Sleeps.' FOOD Food style differs right across China from the North to the South. Each region has its own tried and true recipe for success. In fact there are eight culinary cuisines, check out a full post on Chinese food here. From delectable Dim Sum and BBQ pork in Hong Kong, to noodles and hot pot in Xi'an..everywhere is exceptionally different. Up north they like it hot and spicy. Very spicy! Which for this foreigner requires a fire hydrant of water at my side! You will find more western food available on the supermarket shelves in Hong Kong as opposed to Xi'an's, which mostly carry very local grocery items. Cucumber toothpaste anyone? Eating out in Xi'an has its plus side. It's ridiculously cheap! From street food to local hot pot or even the buffet in a five star hotel....prices are refreshingly low! Aside from local holes in the wall, the same really can't be said for Hong Kong. SCHOOLING The minute you give birth in Hong Kong, people will be asking you which school you've enrolled that new bundle of joy in to! No kidding! There are at least a dozen international schools and numerous local schools you can choose from. Despite the large number of facilities available, there are even more people wanting to enrol. With demand outweighing supply, the school entry system is cut throat and getting into the school of your choice takes meticulous planning and preparation (not to mention school interviews for kids often as young as two!) Schooling in Xi'an is rather limited. If it's not a local school (which is night and day when compared with a western school system -- longer hours, less play), there are just three international schools to choose from. However getting accepted is relatively straightforward. In fact, with a lot less expats in town, these schools are champing at the bit for western children to sign up and give their school that 'international feel.' There's no denying, despite both cities harbouring populations of around 8-million, Hong Kong's exposure to the western world and the world in general, as well as it's location and climate has seen it grow into Asia's World City. It definitely makes for easier living in many ways. Xi'an is still relatively untouched by the outside world and thus in many ways remains like a big country town. Tourism is bringing more and more global exposure in to the city ...and I'm intrigued to return in another decade and see the changes. It would be a big shame to see it lose its authenticity though. Depending on your desire, both cities offer completely different living experiences, in China! For us, both have been unforgettable posts in more ways than one! This is China. Where would you choose to live as an Expat? … [Read more...]
Good Morning Xi’an! How China Wakes Up……
7:30am and the streets are bustling with locals…many are elderly Chinese (often with their grandchildren)….they’re in their element, out and about, primed for business (and socialising)! There’s an awful lot of yelling (which for a non-morning person, seems a tad extreme) but it’s all par for the course when you step into the whirlpool of commotion that is the morning wet markets, in the middle of north west China! It’s a fascinating kaleidoscope of colour, set up right in the middle of a quiet village street, which come afternoons, will resume its place as a peaceful haven of tranquility. But for now, it seems, everything and anything is up for grabs…. Cooking up a barbie? This is where you get your fresh meat, looking, well extremely fresh, perched on the back of a truck for your perusal… Note: Large axe at the ready, sitting on a tree stump - (obviously the perfect chopping board)! Just across from the meat truck, fresh crisp bread (that make the perfect pizza bases) is being baked in a giant kiln at a rapid pace… A trike loaded with fresh flowers sets off for the day. Further into the flurry of heaving bodies -- noodles are being frantically weighed and chopped on the back of bikes; truckloads of Tofu stand at the ready and people are hastily exchanging their hard earned cash for tonight's dinner. Eggs of every shape and colour overflow from baskets on the footpath and vegetables in every shade of green are laid out along the ground, ripe for the picking. Fresh fish (and I mean so fresh they are alive) flap in buckets until you make your selection. (Don’t mind the 'Wai guo ren' (foreigner) stifling her shriek as she spies the fish being retrieved and hastily hit over the head ready for purchase.) It’s clearly a feast for the eyes and at times an assault on ones senses…. Just to the side of the markets is a large park. Wednesday morning and it’s brimming with life. Every single nook and cranny is occupied. It occurs to me that no one does mornings like China’s senior citizens! Pockets of the park are punctuated with groups of women dancing in unison…. Lone men sit playing their favourite instrument. There’s no busking, this is simply playing for pleasure. Others stand under the shade of a tree practicing Tai Chi. Stationary exercise machines are being given an emphatic work out and strange sports that clearly involve a high degree of skill are underway with gusto! Men huddle together playing Mahjong; a choir is gathered under a small pagoda singing to their heart’s content. Just nearby rows of ping pong tables are witnessing some lively games. Others, content to go it alone. And then this…. a traditional sword dance! Good Morning Xi’an! This is China. … [Read more...]
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