Living in China — Hong Kong and then Xi’an on the mainland — for the past six years, it’s become increasingly obvious, just how safe these cities are. Let's face it, almost every time we turn on the television, we see images of bombed cities in complete disarray, children bloodied and shell-shocked… terror attacks in countries we’ve always felt safe travelling to. Then there are the street muggings, robberies, rapes and murders. The list, sadly, goes on. And because of that, I’ve heard many people say: in today’s climate they are simply too afraid to travel, especially to somewhere like China! I’m not saying the above doesn’t happen in both Hong Kong and potentially the quieter city of Xi’an or greater China for that matter, oh it definitely does! Both these cities boast populations around the 8 or 9 million mark, so there are without doubt a lot of “underground” scandals! But in general, as a place to live with your kids….a place to travel….a place to be a woman on your own, China is remarkably safe and a surprisingly peaceful hub in a world, that is seemingly more and more fraught with danger and fear. So when a friend asked me to write a piece on solo travel for women in China, I thought, "Hell yes! Why not!" because with nearly two-thirds of travellers today being women, I’m sure there are a lot of you, who have thought about it - but put off travelling to an unknown quantity like China. But, let me reassure you! TRAVELLING ALONE IN CHINA IS SAFE! For starters, in both Hong Kong and Xi’an….I have rarely, if ever felt uncomfortable walking around, late at night. Clearly, you need to have your wits about you and avoid dark, uninhabited spots, but in general, both cities, though chalk and cheese - are uniquely sheltered environments. Hong Kong’s bright lights and big city fit into a small and compact area. It’s overcrowded, for sure! But there’s an astonishing 'orderliness' that reigns over the fragrant harbour. I spoke about it briefly in this post A for Effort…a few years ago. Much the same can be said in the more innocent and less savvy Xi'an. As a woman, in many countries, if I was walking towards a group of men, on my own, I could potentially feel a little intimidated - head down, walk quickly. Here - it’s never a glaring problem. 'Glaring' being the operative word. There’s glaring and there’s glaring, right? I rarely find Asian men glaring at me in a sexually suggestive way. Glaring perhaps at the absurdity of this strange white woman strolling the streets, but it’s usually nothing more than an innocent curiosity. That in itself takes the pressure off going anywhere alone in these cities. It gives you a freedom, that I think, many women in other countries may not even realise they’re missing. DRESS CODE Women can freely dress however they choose in China and that applies to travellers too. Most Chinese women though, do dress relatively conservatively, so you’re less likely to garner unnecessary attention if you’re not too revealing! But to be honest you will be the centre of attention no matter what you wear. As a foreigner, many locals - particularly outside the first tier cities - will be curious about the foreign lady (or man for that matter) in town. Put a child into the mix and there's even more attention! The people of China are in general extremely peaceful and friendly, so your best bet is to take it all with a grain of salt. Some may even try to touch you, just say Bu Yao Le! (Boo Yow La! which means “Don’t!”) if you're not comfortable and they'll soon get the message! Otherwise, you’ll experience a tiny taste of what it’s like to have celebrity status being constantly ‘papped!’ Some will even want to practice their English with you. If you’re up for it, don’t be scared. For the most part it’s all harmless chatter. PICKPOCKETS You’ll be pleased to know, given it’s humongous size and population, overall, China has a relatively low murder rate….less than half that of the United States. China has severe criminal penalties (by a wide margin, China executes more criminals annually than any other country). It’s also commonly reported that Chinese courts (rightly or wrongly) have a 99 per cent conviction rate. It's said Chinese criminals understand, committing a crime against a foreigner is bad publicity (or 'loss of face') for the country’s lucrative tourism industry, not to mention the hefty penalties they'll cop. Plus with CCTV in many places, it's easy to be caught out. Big Brother is always watching! As a tourist of course, you can fall victim to petty crime. Take precautions and be careful around tourist hot spots and in crowded places like markets or on public transport. I’ve heard stories about pickpockets carrying large bags and placing them under the tourist’s handbag, cutting the bottom out so the contents fall into theirs. Don’t tempt thieves and carry valuables in full view in these places and try to carry as little cash as possible. *Tip: Most places won't take foreign credit cards, especially outside first tier cities. If you’re at a market and you’ve shown the slightest interest in something i.e. looked sideways or touched it, you might have vendors chasing after you down the street trying to sell it to you! If you’re definitely not interested just ignore them and keep walking! Another popular hang out for thieves is crowded restaurants. You might notice that Chinese never hang their purses or bags on the chair behind them like many of us or plonk them on the floor (like I used to)! The reasons are two fold…one it’s safer and two the floor is usually considered too filthy to place your bag on. When I first arrived in China I was given a rather stern look for placing my bag beside my feet!! (Some tables in cafes actually have hooks under the table for your bag or they’ll bring you an extra chair, yes just for your handbag, ladies!) SCAMS Of course, China is the home of fakes! Almost everything can be copied (and that includes food)! I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but just about all brand-name items for sale in small shops or on the streets probably aren't the real deal! As a foreign tourist, there's every chance you could find yourself paying double what something is worth. Counterfeit money is also a big problem on the mainland, so don’t be alarmed when every cashier checks your cash through a machine to determine it’s validity. It's not just you! ;) *Tip: All the bills except the one yuan note have metal ribbons from top to bottom. These should be visible as a silver line on the front of a shadow when looked at from the back. Also, the flower design near the middle of each note and Chairman Mao’s jacket image are textured. There is a popular scam in China that may see you suddenly faced with someone throwing themselves in front of your car or scooter! (If you happen to be brave enough to drive and have a licence.) Some people will do anything to get money off the "rich" foreigner. If you see someone who is injured or hurt, it will probably go against everything you believe in to ignore them...but be aware, there is no 'good samaritan' law in China and if you should injure them further, you'll be held liable. DOCUMENTS Protect your passport, tickets and visa documents by carrying them on you if you can't leave them in a safe. Keep a photocopy of your passport and other vital documents separately. Note in all hotels and hostels the staff are required by law to keep a copy of your passport while you stay there. (This is about registering you….and the government knowing who’s in town!) ROAD SAFETY In all probability, the most likely causes of harm to you as a tourist could potentially come from the road! I’m talking about car accidents, road mishaps and the like. You’ve no doubt heard me talk about the chaotic manner of the traffic many times on this blog? If you haven’t click on this post for the lowdown. Why do they drive so erratically? A big part of the problem is, they just haven’t been driving for long. In 2000, China had less than 10 million passenger vehicles (a proportion less than that of the United States in 1911). Ten years later, the number of privately owned cars in China ballooned to about 70 million. Rumours tell me there are currently 1000 new cars a day on Xi’an’s roads. It’s utter madness, but for the most part, you’ll be fine. You’ll probably feel like closing your eyes tight… or holding your stomach with all the ducking and weaving, lurching and halting, but given the amount of traffic, things move relatively slowly. You’ll see lots of bingles (Aussie term for small collisions) but hopefully nothing too major. Crossing the road on the other hand needs your attention. Most Chinese just wander out into the road without so much as a glance sideways. Jaywalking laws? Are you kidding! You are probably best not to follow suit. On China’s roads, the unspoken law is generally, whoever’s bigger gets right of way. Keep your wits about you and don’t be fooled into thinking you can cross safely on the little green man! I have watched many Chinese women stick their arm out like superman as they cross a busy intersection… it tends to work - for them! Of course, the good news is, if you’re a foreigner, chances are they’ll spot you a mile away!! Mostly Chinese drivers are experts at avoiding pedestrians. But tread carefully! TRANSPORT Generally, public transport in China is safe. That includes trains in the cities and across the country. There are many different types of tickets you can buy, but you can't beat the Bullet Train for being fast, safe, clean and easy! For a more detailed look at catching trains with in cities, click here. Travelling across China, this is a great article here. Taxis can be harder for foreigners to hail, but if you get one, make sure the metre is running. If Tuk Tuks are available, they are cheap and easy for short journeys. Busses are also doable outside of peak hour. Always, always Avoid Black Cabs! We made this mistake in Beijing outside the famous Summer Palace and the driver did try to rip us off, charging four times the normal price! These are privately-owned cars and look like VIP cabs, usually with a VIP badge, no I.D picture and a fake metre. Be careful when catching taxis from airports; always use the ones at the taxi rank. Get the driver's I.D number and insist he uses the metre. Have the name of your destination written in Chinese characters and always try to grab your bags from the boot before paying. HYGIENE The other culprit you’re more likely to fall victim to is poor hygiene leading to a dodgy tummy. Don’t drink the tap water and don’t use it to clean your teeth…(embarrassingly, the latter a recent discovery for me). *Tip: This includes in 5-star hotels! Beware when buying street food. It might smell delicious and for the record, usually tastes pretty good, but if it’s not from a recommended source, steer clear. Often, if the stall is heaving with customers and looks relatively clean, your odds of avoiding ‘la du zi’ are infinitely better. *Tip: Bring hand sanitiser because many of the bathrooms won’t have soap. This post here goes into more detail about the essentials to pack! Public toilets are common but they are mostly of the 'squat' variety and not always very clean. Be prepared for some stomach-turning sights. Tissues are a necessity. (On the upside, just think of the work out for your thighs, ladies!) ;) There are no compulsory vaccines to have before you travel to China, but it can never hurt to visit your doctor to get the latest information. HEALTHCARE Be mindful that healthcare in China is not as we know it in the western world. While the major first tier cities like Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou definitely boast higher standard hospitals, the same can’t always be said for 2nd, 3rd and 4th tier cities, which includes China's other 655 cities. Always make sure you travel with international health insurance. Most hospitals will want a deposit or payment up front before any treatment is carried out, no matter how ill you are. This post here goes into more detail about healthcare in China. During the winter months and often either side, pollution levels can be high… if you have asthma or bronchial issues try to avoid these times. Buy a mask and wear it. Download the Pollution Index Levels app so you can check the levels each day. Oh and just in case: For ambulance, ph: 120 Police, ph: 110 Also be aware of any potential rides or attractions you may be tempted to board. In major tourist spots they should be perfectly safe but I tend to rethink a few of the things in the less known cities or villages (like Ferris Wheels and cable cars), purely for the fact the Chinese often don’t build things to last (any more). *Tip: It is also a great idea to download a translation app. Pleco is a very handy dictionary app! And don’t forget to have a good time!! There are many great reasons to visit China….if you’re not convinced, you'd better check out my post here! There’s an old Confucius saying '有朋自远方来不亦乐乎' -- Translated, it means, "Chinese will warmly welcome those friends from afar!" This is China! https://mintmochamusings.com/travelling-china-where-to-go/ … [Read more...]
China’s Culture Club: Flower Power, Fruit Platters and Laughing Gas!
From the outside, it looks like it could quite easily be a quaint British pub. Of course, finding said venue in the middle of China is debatable, but for a few split seconds we kid ourselves, this cute and cosy taverna is just a hop, skip and a jump up the road. It’s definitely the flowers, draping prettily from the wooden cottage-like exterior that has us in denial. Cute little chairs and tables perch on the balcony, and you can imagine sitting there on a balmy summer’s evening (perhaps a little cooler than the current 35). Called Harbour City, about now, dripping with the effects of humidity, we are desperately wishing Xi’an was….in fact a harbour city. Let me not digress though with talk of the incessant heat that’s plagued the city for weeks. Back to the ‘pub’ up the road - clearly, the flowery theme was just a pre-cursor of what was to come! Stepping inside, it's like stepping into another world! At first glance, it looks like a wedding reception in complete over drive. My eyes boggle in awe. Gigantic, fresh floral arrangements hang from the ceiling, decorating candelabras and chandeliers in extraordinary fashion. Scenes from the Great Gatsby swirl through my head, as we’re ushered through the crowds. All eyes on us. The only white people in the venue (and potentially the oldest)! I half expect someone to come swinging down from the roof, aka Nicole Kidman style in Moulin Rouge! Whatever Harbour City is doing, after a month in business it seems they’ve got something right. Looking ever so sophisticated, this “bar” in the middle of Xi’an…a place where you can be forgiven for thinking most locals are more interested in snacking on over-sized bowls of cold noodles in the street on a Friday night…is heaving with people. The waiters hastily kick a staff member from a high bench table, tucked in beside the bar, for us to take our places in this outlandish scene. (Never mind the stools are actually chained to the table, as long as it's not us, I think.) Three (yes three) waiters bring a menu to us… of course the entire thing is in Chinese characters, which isn’t going to do us mere foreigners any favours. It's soon clear no English is spoken, so after looking blankly at the menu, in my best Chinese, I ask if they have ‘bai pu tao jiu’…white wine, to which they nod enthusiastically. Pointing to three options (again in Chinese) it’s a case of ‘eny meeny miny moe!’ Turns out ordering a 'glass' of wine is simply not an option, so a bottle it is! Regular wine is still a bit of an enigma in much of China’s bars….especially white wine. So it comes as no surprise when the bottle that arrives, is indeed red. Poured ever so carefully into a sleek glass decanter, we are dispatched with large wine glasses, two shot glasses of warm water and two cans of Sprite?! Ice is poured into our wine glasses and swished around for a good thirty seconds in what looks to be a rather high tech procedure. (Who doesn't like a good red wine on ice!! 8-O ) Next minute, an old school, silver bell is put in front of us. We assume this is to call someone when we are in need of attention (should they hear us over the loud rumbling of music). I look around at other tables…most are furnished with buckets of beer. There are VIP ‘minimum spend ‘tables boasting glowing buckets of beer stashed under the table and about a dozen Coronas lined up on the table. In China this is seen as a show of great prestige! There are also artistically carved fruit platters decorating many a table! Forget about the cheese platter or peanuts and chips. Another sign of distinction in China appears to be fruit or 'fruits' as they're more commonly known! A lady comes around selling cigarettes and cigars. Even though China authorities have banned indoor smoking, the rules are having little impact on China's 350-million smokers. The band is singing a mix of western and Chinese songs. The first song we hear is a Natalie Imbruglia tune. To hear an Aussie singer’s hit being belted out in the middle of China, is at the very least, freakishly fantastic! I wonder what most of the people in the bar think when they can’t understand the words. Does the song resonate at all? I seem to be the only one having a sly boogie...that is... until one of the many cleaning ladies, quietly pottering around, spies me and gives me a little shimmy with a cheeky laugh. A Lady Gaga song reigns out….no one is dancing though, then two of the band members are up on podiums in the middle of the club cranking out a local Asian song. Everyone gets up, mimicking the dance moves with all the energy they can muster! Some are playing a popular Chinese drinking game at their tables called ‘Liar's dice!’ About now, a waiter pops over and grabs a shot glass, proceeds to pour himself a glass of OUR red wine toasting us, knocking it back like a shot!! Cheers or "Gan bei!" he smiles. And just like that, he swaggers off, while we watch after him, highly amused. There’s a table of guys with balloons. Naturally, at first, we assume they’re blowing up balloons for their celebration… just quietly, I think it’s bit late for the party, but anyway… The thing is they keep sucking the air out of the balloons, so we start to wonder what the point in that might be! There’s also something on the table that looks remarkably like a whipped cream canister. They appear to be endlessly unscrewing and screwing a capsule that resembles a silver bullet and then attaching the balloon to the canister in earnest. Amused and perplexed we watch on as another table of girls, who’ve spent all night taking selfies, barely speaking to each other, start up on the balloons. By now I'll admit we’re completely bamboozled. I realise it’s potentially been awhile since I’ve been to a club, as such, and this is definitely no English country pub, flowers or not.. I try not to stare.......well maybe just a little. A quick Google tells us, this is indeed a craze involving inhaling nitrous oxide, otherwise known as ‘laughing gas’!! Ah ha!! Apparently it makes you feel euphoric and relaxed, for about ten seconds! Mystery solved. A little reluctantly, we emerge at around 1130…early birds I know…and who knows what happens in there as the night goes on, but I spy the champagne starting to flow. It’s 32 degrees….hot and humid…. we walk the five minutes home to the hotel. A three wheeler bike cruises past in the dark, three people are half dressed, bouncing a naked baby in the air, as they scoot past. We giggle…and they giggle back, no doubt finding us an equally odd spectacle! This is China. … [Read more...]
Travelling to China: Where to Go and What to See!
Having chalked up almost two years in China, I often get asked advice on where to go and what to see, so I thought it was high time I put together a 'go to' post, if the Middle Kingdom's on your bucket list. Given the vastness of China, we've seen a mere blip of the world's most populous nation that's home to 661 cities. Nonetheless, we've managed to tick off quite a few, on the journey thus far! If you've got the urge to come and see what all the fuss is about and want the adventure of a lifetime, here are my top recommendations, for first timers, at least. First Stop: Shanghai Given that most airlines fly direct to Shanghai from most cities across the globe, China's biggest and brightest city is probably a good place to start exploring this unique part of the world. This city of 24 million people is buzzing with all the excitement of modern day China. With a skyline that's literally 'out of this world', Shanghai is renowned as the 'Paris of the East!' Bustling with a charismatic fusion of the East and West, the city has a unique blend of the sassy and sophisticated with the culturally quaint essence that is 'old China' running through her veins. Dip your toes in Shanghai and gradually get a feel for life in China, without throwing yourself in the deep end. For a list of what to do and see... click on my post: Shanghai Shenanigans: A Weekend in the Paris of the East Note: There are two international airports - Pudong International Airport and Hongqiao International Airport, the latter is closest to the city centre. Two to three days should be enough time to indulge in the city high life... Hangzhou If you've got extra time in your schedule, take a side trip down to the place they call 'China's Paradise on Earth!' Hangzhou is just a 45 minute train ride from the metropolis of Shanghai so it makes an easy day trip. The top must-see...the country's famous West Lake (just steer clear of national holidays)! If you're up for staying overnight, the area is also famous for its Longjin Tea Plantation. For more on what to do in Hangzhou or if you're unsure whether or not to add it to your itinerary, check out my post: China's Paradise on Earth: Hangzhou is it Worth the Visit? If you're up for another day trip from Shanghai and a taste of mini Venice in the East - head to one of the area's classic ancient water towns. I'll be honest with you, we missed these on our first trip but visiting one is still on the bucket list! Beijing If you've made the decision to visit China, it's hard to go past the nation's capital! The great political hub where the past and future collide in a hot pot of cultural ideologies. Home to seven UNESCO World Heritage sites, you can immerse yourself in China's rich history and get a sense of the how the headquarters of the world's second fastest growing economy ticks. Of course, access to one of China's greatest treasures, the Great Wall of China is just a stone's throw from the city (well, a two hour drive). A once in a life time moment -- you can soak up tradition and the mere scale of the great wall itself, which stretches across China. (Just be prepared for heart palpitating chair lifts up and a toboggan ride down that will have you hanging on by the skin of your teeth!) Beijing has a cold winter and very hot summer so choose your times wisely. March to May and September to November are ideal. For more on what to do in China's capital: check out my post: Visit Beijing: The World's Super City in the Making Harbin Time permitting and depending on the time of the year you're visiting (early January to mid February), take a trip up to Harbin to see the famous ice sculpture festival. Not for the faint-hearted, Harbin has without doubt one of the most bitterly cold winters in China, but if you're game -- I have it on good authority that the "Ice City" is pretty dam spectacular! At night these gigantic snow and ice sculptures are bathed in a kaleidoscope of brilliant colour. (Just think -- all of those Frozen fans visiting their own real life Arendelle!) A two hour flight from Beijing, Harbin bears the influences of Eastern Russia, so harbours its own distinct flavour. (Tip: I'm told you don't want to go too late in winter or the sculptures start to melt and get a little dirty.) Xi'an Of course, there's no visiting China without taking a trip to the so-called cultural cradle of civilisation! Pop in to say hi to those world-famous Terracotta Warriors (oh and me)! There's no shortage of things to see in this historical city, from a bike ride around the ancient city wall to the mesmerising and utterly mad Muslim Quarter, the 1300 year old temple we like to call our neighbour, Big Wild Goose Pagoda.... and an opportunity to soak up what I like to call the "real China!" For more - this post has got you covered: 48 Hours in Xi'an: Top 5 Things to Do! Note: Xi'an has two seasons, a cold winter and a hot summer, so if you don't want to get caught in the icy winter pollution or summer furnace, the best times to visit are between March and May and September and November. Xi'an is just under two hours flight from Beijing. Luoyang If you have time for a side trip from Xi'an, I would highly recommend catching the high speed train to Luoyang. It's a one and a half hour trip through the countryside to the city of six million and from here you can visit the mystical Shaolin Temple high up in the Song Shan Mountains -- this is the birthplace of Buddhism and is still an active monastery today, as well as being home to the world's largest Kungfu academy. The world famous Longmen Grottos are a 45 minute drive from Luoyang and here you can get up close and personal with incredible gigantic sculptures carved into the side of cliffs that are still clearly visible centuries later. For more information on visiting these hot spots, check out my post Kungfu But No Panda: Welcome to 3rd Tier China. Tibet Sustaining spectacular landscape, spiritual traditions and a mythical-like culture, the Buddhist region of Tibet is a once in a life time wonder....which also boasts the world's highest peak, Mt Everest. But this is a magical place in which you need time up your sleeve to visit. At around 3000 metres above sea level, Tibet is the highest region on earth so it takes time to acclimatise, which means ideally at least four to five days in the region and even better, stretching the journey there over several days to avoid altitude sickness on arrival. (Note: Altitude sickness doesn't discriminate, so regardless of age, gender or fitness there's generally no rhyme or reason as to who gets hit and who doesn't.... If you suffer from any illnesses, you should definitely check with your doctor first if you do plan to go to Tibet.) Experts say, taking the train to Tibet makes acclimatising easier......but you can easily fly from many cities in China, including Xi'an, Chengdu, Beijing and Shanghai. It is difficult for non-Chinese citizens to travel independently in Tibet with various restrictions on foreign tourists. All foreign travelers are required to join an organized tour operated by authorized travel agencies and Chinese authorities often close Tibet to foreign tourists altogether in March. If you have the desire for adventure, take time to schedule a trip to the place they call the 'roof of the world' into your itinerary. Chengdu If you love cute and furry teddy bears, aka Giant Pandas - Chengdu is the place to see them in China. Just a short one hour flight from Xi'an, Sichuan Province is where you'll find the majority of these furry critters lounging about, just chewin’ on bamboo. It’s predicted just over a thousand live in the wild and the China Conservation and Research Centre in Chengdu is home to around 80 of the provinces most famous residents. Head to Chengdu for an overnight trip. For more check out my post Pandas in Chengdu: Don't Mind if I Do! Yangtze River Yangtze River known as Cháng Jiāng - or longest river is the largest in China and the third largest in the world after the Nile in Africa and the Amazon in South America. It spans over 6000 kilometres and traversing eleven provinces and cities from west to east! Tourists can enjoy the stunning scenery of the Three Gorges while exploring the ancient cultural sites along the river. There are a myriad of different packages, boats and routes to take so you'll need to pick your package carefully... whether you take one that winds from Beijing to Shanghai over 10 days or just a few days between Chongqing and Wuhan, there are many options. I'm yet to tick this off my list but for more information, check out these sites: The Travel China Guide The Yangtze River Cruise Guide Guilin One of the most beautiful and quaint places I've seen in China, Guilin has definitely earned it's nickname ‘Shan shui jia tian xia’ meaning Guilin’s ‘mountain and water scenery is the best under heaven’. Guilin city is the stepping stone to places like Ping An Village where you can see the China of old in all her glory. From Guilin Airport, Ping An is a 2.5 hour drive up into the hills.... spend a night here and soak up the unique and rich culture of this 600 year old village that oozes unrivalled charm amongst a setting of stunning rice terraces. A world away and a breath of fresh air from China's manic side! Catch a ferry up the river to Yangshuo and marvel at the limestone karsts that jut from the sea in their mesmerising shapes and sizes. No wonder they call it a ‘jade ribbon winding among thousands of Karst Hills.’ Yangshuo Village is the perfect place for a fun adventure. Ride bikes along the river path or catch a bamboo raft and glide your way down the river. This post will give you the lowdown! China's Pearl of the Orient: Why Guilin is Compulsory Viewing! Hong Kong It's not part of the mainland, but my advice is after all of that adventure, you need to end your trip on a high note....perhaps amongst Hong Kong's glittering sky scrapers? The 'city that never sleeps' is home to 8000 plus restaurants, not to mention some beautiful beaches and hiking trails. Oh and let's not forget the fabulous shopping! Finish off your amazing trip to the East with a relaxing couple of days in the fragrant harbour. Hong Kong gets very humid, so avoid the blazing summer months from June to August. Travelling to Hong Kong? This page has it all. Oh and if you're still not convinced...check out my post Four Good Reasons You Need to Travel China If you are convinced.... don't forget to read this! Travelling to China: Top Ten Things to Pack! Happy Travelling! This is China. Pssst... feel free to message me with any further questions and I'll try to help. Nicole@mintmochamusings.com … [Read more...]
Traditional Chinese Medicine: That Time I Tried Acupuncture in China….Alone!
In hindsight, I probably should’ve known better than to attempt to go to a local medical establishment in Xi an, on my own! And by that I mean without my walking, talking dictionary in my back pocket - also known as 'a dear Chinese speaking friend' to ease my fears and translate for me. Clearly, sleep-deprived and a little delirious, I’ve obviously forgotten where I actually am! "Ahh hello, Nicole, you don’t speak Chinese, remember?" Well, not well enough for this sort of encounter! But, here I was, hurtling along the freeway with a non English speaking driver, off to see the Acupuncturist or 'Zhen Jiu' as I soon discover it is in Chinese. Everyone has said to me, if you do anything health wise in China, acupuncture it is! And given it's been practiced for thousands of years here, it's hard to disagree. Trivial fact: There is evidence of acupuncture around 100 BC. That said, about half way there, I realise I don’t actually know where the place is. All I have is an address in Chinese characters. Last time I was with said driver, going anywhere other than school, he got us totally lost, despite having the address and several people explaining to him in Chinese. I frantically text the address to Ava's Chinese babysitter….asking her if it has any street numbers in it. I already know it doesn’t…but I’m naively hoping she will miraculously give me some clue to where I’m going. All I know, is that it's near the coffee shop I’ve frequented a few times. It dawns on me, there are a gazillion shops in this area and even more concerning, how the heck am I going to know which one says "Acupuncturist?!" Our babysitter manages to find me a picture of the shop front, but she may as well be sending me a picture of a random door in Timbuktu… it’s a door with gold Chinese characters above it, like oh so many of the shop entrances. By now we are driving around in circles, peering at random buildings that all look similar. The driver eventually gets out and asks an elderly man on a bike. I'm doubtful he'll know so I call the Chinese lady who recommended the place to my foreign friends in the first place and she explains to the driver, but alas, it's to no avail….we keep driving, back and forth. It’s times like this I muse why we don’t have a Sat Nav, but in China everyone likes to give directions referring to the compass. North, East, South or West. For someone who is 'directionally challenged', this is about as helpful as telling me to fly myself to the North Pole. The driver is now muttering under his breath in Chinese and I keep shoving my phone at him with someone different to talk to in Chinese, realising it’s probably futile. By now we’ve done so many circles I couldn’t tell you which way is up, down, north, south, east or west. I’m about to give up and call it a day, with the stark realisation, I should’ve known better than to attempt this mission alone. I give it one last shot and call the hotel concierge with some directions from my friend in the UK, who (thankfully) has jet lag and is awake when I text her. We come to a halt outside a building that looks absolutely nothing like the picture I've been sent, which immediately makes me dubious. Where am I being dropped? I shake my head, but tell the driver to wait (also known as gesturing wildly) while I step gingerly inside to see if it looks remotely like what I expect an acupuncturist to look like. It’s a hot mid summer’s day and the temperature gauge is nudging 36 degrees. My anxiety hasn’t helped my inner thermometer and I feel myself literally fall through the door in a ball of sweat, gazing questioningly around the room. I can see what looks to be traditional medicine and a man says “Hello” in English pointing for me to go upstairs….as if he instantly knows who I am and why I'm here. I have no appointment - none is needed I’m told but I am filled with dread that I could be anywhere….my imagination running away with me and I worry it's some evil medical laboratory that may be about to harvest my organs! I scan my phone trying to find the address I have and thrust it under his nose. He looks amused and nods, yes this is it! I guess this is where I just take a calculated risk and believe it's going to be ok. I run outside to the car and give the driver the thumbs up (although they don’t really use this gesture much in China but I assume he knows what I mean). It soon becomes evident the English speaking male’s vocabulary doesn’t extend past “hello”. Typically, in the height of my angst, my Chinese is all but lost. I mumble about being told someone spoke English here and he simply smiles and shakes his head, ushering me upstairs, where I'm told (I think) to sit down in a row of lounge chairs… The air is stifling and I realise there’s no air conditioning. About now it dawns on me that I need to call someone to explain to the practitioners why I’m here and what I need. I decide the hotelier's PA is probably my best bet, seeing as she called them yesterday for me. I ask the English-non-English speaking man to wait while I anxiously swipe through my phone. With everyone on We Chat in China, finding their actual phone number constantly eludes me. Finally I just message her saying, call me, and much to my relief she does. I put her on to the doctor and then ask where the toilet is. Back downstairs, I seriously consider whether I should just make a run for it….leave and pretend this never happened. But I dust myself off from the squat toilet and tip toe back upstairs, inhaling deeply. This time I am told to remove my shoes and get up onto one of the beds. I eyeball the room for evidence of hygiene standards. It looks pristinely clean, although I note the white doctor’s coat is smeared with dirt. He tries in vain to speak to me but I’m lost….his sidekick, a woman, speaks more slowly and her gentle demeanour calms me. I hope they can’t see that I'm shaking, just a little. Both of them immediately feel my hands and feet and then in unison, gasp in horror. I hear them saying the words for cool and derive they think I am too cold. (Which is kind of ludicrous given the current climate but I understand in Chinese medical terms, it's a possibility). Then they ask me to stick out my tongue and almost recoil in horror with a lot of back and forth glances. The male doctor takes my pulse and then says something to me again. Clearly he’s not giving up. I think he’s asking me if I drink cold water and eat ice-cream. All I can respond with is "sometimes". I know how much this is a mortal sin in Chinese culture, so much so, I can honestly say, hand on heart, I rarely have cold water these days. Mind you, today of all days, I think, I’m sure I could be forgiven for indulging in a little bin xi lin (Ice cream)! Next thing the needles are out. I am relieved to see they come from a closed packet…having heard a few horror stories of needles being reused in China. I recall having acupuncture many years ago in Sydney….apart from the needles, so far, this is not quite how I remember it. There are two in each foot, one in each hand and one in my du zi! Stomach. I note that when it’s time for the one in my stomach, the male doctor promptly leaves the room so the woman can place a towel over my lower half. The needles hurt, more than I remember! I grimace but it’s bearable. To warm me up a little more, I then have two heat lamps placed over me.. One at my feet and one at my stomach…. I feel like a pig on a spit! The male doctor tries his Chinese again and I manage to apologise and say I only speak a little Chinese. …The lovely sidekick, says "Mei Guanxi." No problem. Next thing, she explains, because I’m so cold, she would like to use something else and holds up a lighter and what looks like a solid toilet roll. I nod with caution… I’m a desperate woman and I’ll try anything but still… I’m a little scared. Is she going to brand me with this poker stick? I mentally recall the story I read about the Chinese man who had so much cupping his back was infected with a mass of black gangrenous holes. She lights the end of it and then lets it burn and smoulder slowly like a giant cigar. She spends the next thirty minutes wafting it over my hands, feet and stomach. Thankfully it doesn’t touch my skin but I think she really is literally cooking me now and I try desperately not to choke on the smoke which is filling the enclosed room. Later when I relay this to my Australian naturopath, she relieves my concerns by telling me this concept is actually called 'Moxibustion' and is even used in the Western world…..I Google it and discover it’s an ancient Chinese medicine therapy using moxa made from dried mugwort to among many other things, stimulate circulation through the pressure points and induce a smoother flow of blood and qi. Beads of sweat dripping down me ….clammy and sweaty….I close my eyes and try to relax. I hear the faint click of the doctor’s phone and can see him out of the corner of my eye at the back of the room. I suspiciously think he’s taking photos of the strange white woman on their bed. Finally in what feels like forever, it’s over. The heat lamps are off and the needles come out, painlessly. The doctor says something I don’t get and walks out, closing the door behind me. I’m not sure whether to stay lying there or it’s finished. In the end it’s clear no one is coming back, so I get up put my shoes on and walk out. They are both standing there, waiting for me, big smiles on their faces. I ask them if I need to come back and they point to what looks like a tub with a foot massager in the bottom and say “tomorrow?” I tell them not tomorrow, but maybe next week. My earlier suspicions are confirmed, when, as if it’s mandatory after every doctor’s appointment in China, the obligatory photo opportunity is presented. I try not to look visibly amused and smile politely. I'm glowing with a fine layer of sweat but of course! First with the male doctor then the female. “Piaoliang!” beautiful, he says.…..and then we exchange pleasantries and I remember I need to pay. They usher me downstairs to the man with English, but no English. It’s a grand total that is equivalent to $15 Australian dollars. Then they ask for my phone number which is kind of funny given they have no clue who I am. Any appointment in the West and they would have all of your details before you set foot in the door. After such an up close and personal visit I realise they don’t even know my name. "Wo jiao Nicole", I say and write it for them on the scrap piece of paper, they give me. We say "Zai jian" Goodbye.... and I tell them I’ll see them next week. No need to give them a time or appointment, I guess like today, I’ll just turn up. I tell them my friend will call them to see what they have to say about my 'condition'. Later she rings them and as suspected they tell her about my cold feet and hands and the tongue! Apparently they can see exactly what my problem is from these three things. I’ll need to go five times and tonight my sleep will be just fine, they say. I don’t know about that, but even though I smell like I’ve been roasting marsh mellows over a bonfire, I feel relaxed! This is China. … [Read more...]
KungFu But No Panda: Welcome to Third Tier China
It was an extra long weekend in China; the centuries old Dragon Boat Festival was in action. With barely a patch of water to be found up here in Xi’an, it does seem a little off the wall -- still we’ll take it, thanks! Happy Holidays! Mind you, nothing’s for free. The government likes to make you work Sunday in return for giving you a day off! “You get what you get….and you don’t get upset!” As I can be heard reciting to the Small Person on one too many occasions. So, with a few days up our sleeves, we decide to go on an adventure. My head is always in two places about these kind of “China adventures”… As much as I know I 'clearly' thrive on risky, unexpected experiences — they are also completely exhausting (mentally more often than physically)! Who am I kidding, just living in China is mentally exhausting. 8-O Psyched for action, with a loose itinerary marked out, we hot-foot it to the train station to catch one of China’s high speed bullet trains! These babies are what’s not exhausting about China. Bloody brilliant really. No checking in, no customs, no long, drawn out x-ray machines, (times ten), no waiting for bags at the end…. it’s one x-ray machine -- the one-in-all-in, throw your bag through kind, where you desperately hope the contents of your handbag aren’t splayed across the floor on the other side! Line up at the correct train entrance and you’re off without so much as a jolt, despite flying through the countryside at 300-plus kilometres per hour. It’s smooth and comfortable. It takes us one and a half hours to reach Luoyang. Having briefly done my research, I've discovered that Luoyang is in central China’s Henan Province; it’s one of China’s smaller cities with a population of around, oh… 6.5 million! Small, really. I know how Xi’an likes to boast it’s the “cradle of civilisation” so when I read Luoyang also wears this crown I'm surprisingly a little on the defensive…..”Can’t be so! This is Xi’an’s territory!” But it seems with such a vast history stretching back thousands of years, there are many cities in China that can lay claim to such rich titles. A tier three city, initially, driving through it was almost disappointing. I had been hoping for a more remote, village-type atmosphere… but this is China, where urbanisation is snaking it’s way across the country in the form of 600-plus concrete jungles, at a rapid pace. The real rural parts of China are retreating further and further back into the hills. And while admittedly, I’ve been one to harp on, that every city in China is glaringly unique, there’s a definite mirror image shining on many of these newish, urbanised China city-scapes. There’s concrete…lots of it, high-rises, rows and rows of them (many empty)….cranes careening across the sky and a maze of highways, thronging with cars in every shade and shape. Most of them new(ish) by the way….given in these cities, cars are a relatively ‘new’ fad. Ten to 15 years ago, the roads were all but empty of the 4-wheel variety. Despite the definite modernisation taking place, there are as many, if not more bikes, trikes and Tuk Tuks chugging through the streets than Xi’an….along with an endearing ramshackle feel, I like to call the “real” China. At first sight, the city has less character, charm and possibly less sophistication than it’s 2nd-tier neighbour, Xi'an….but it doesn’t matter so much, because the city is not what tourists come to see. Unless, like our hotel guest relations manager proudly tells us, her chest puffed out, "You come for the Peonies!" Apparently, Louyang has them in spades…. only in April though, so if this is your thing, you need to plan accordingly. Mostly though, it’s the famous Shaolin Temple and the Longmen Grottoes that claim many a traveller’s time. Naturally they made it on to our itinerary, but unlike us, I would advise reading up on the two well before you get to the actual site and frantically try to Google their claim to fame. An hour and a half drive from Luoyang to the Shaolin Temple, it’s by no means a quick trip. To this day it's the main temple for the Shaolin school of Buddhism and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. On arrival, as if on cue, we spot a rare monk, his long orange cloak flowing behind him as he walks purposely along the pathway, mountains in the distance, temples standing tall in the background. It's a mystical moment. These days, the site has become rather commercialised, so while it’s still a monastery, I’m told, finding monks that aren’t perched behind stalls selling trinkets or cold drinks is difficult. Despite the hoards of tourists now flocking to the sight though, high up in the Song Shan Mountains, the surroundings feel quite peaceful and enchanting. Getting around is less mystical and slightly more mystifying - if you don’t speak/read Chinese. We waste many a moment in the blazing hot sun looking at maps, perplexed and pained! You see the area is not just limited to a single temple…it’s spans a huge area (that you cannot get around quickly, especially with small person in tow) with everything from the Pagoda Forests to caves, kung fu displays and cable car rides. After eventually working out where the ticket office is and deciding we need to hop on a buggy to get “somewhere,” our first stop is unintentionally the Shaolin Temple. Built in 495AD it consists of seven platforms, each layer with what they call 'halls' in typical Chinese architecture. During its heyday, it housed more than 3,000 monks and today the monastery is still home to monks in training. And then there's these scary fellas, who guard the Hall of Heavenly Kings. They're Buddhist warrior attendants. And while my ego is utterly deflated when my attempts to speak Chinese fall completely flat, there are plenty of options to practice. Every few steps, a proud parent is shuffling little 'Wang Xiao' or 'Zheng Cai' into our personal space for some chit chat, hand holding and a photo. I decide talking to the kids is much easier. Our next stop, the Pagoda Forest… we have a little trouble finding our way here too — neither the hotelier or I are good with directions at the best of times, let alone when they’re in another language. (About now I'm strongly lamenting the fact that we don't have a tour guide!) Anyway, I have another go in Chinese and to my relief am understood. We make it to the forest, which is actually a cemetery made up of tall stone pagodas. Each Buddha was given his own Pagoda tomb - around 15 metres high; the layers and the shape depending on their status, attainment and prestige achieved during their lifetime. I'm trying to be impressed, but given my current status living opposite the pagoda of all pagodas, I'm struggling a little to appreciate their significance. Blame the heat! Admittedly, the forest looks a lot more awe-inspiring from above! Feeling hot, thirsty and more than a little tired from so much foot work, in a heat-induced state of delirium, we find ourselves agreeing to take the cable car up the side of the mountain! Now in any country in the West, I would be a little timid about jumping on one of these at the best of times, but in China, when I know all too well how things are made, I'm aware I may have momentarily lost my mind. As we wait to get on….it's literally a case of leaping into the steel-framed, open, rather rattly cable car, hoping for the best. Up we go, tugged up the mountain side. Doing my best not to be overtaken by sheer terror, I try to appreciate the serenity. Ok, it is tranquil. Not so much on the other side…. a rare (in every way) platform overlooking the stunning mountains made for the perfect photo opportunity, except for the pesky man who keeps trying to tell us we can't take our own photos. Instead he's encouraging us to stand with a number of odd pieces, including a stuffed tiger with it’s teeth falling out and a double swing with live peacocks either side! That’ll be ten kuai thanks. It’s about now I think we just need to get off this, er ride…. An ice cream to quench our parched bodies and ease the heart palpitations, we jump back on the cable car for an ever so slightly less terrifying ride down. Everyone on the way up is cheerily yelling out “Hello” to the Waiguo ren as they pass us…a site no doubt…as rare as the peacocks to some, so we reciprocate with a bit of cheerful "Nihao" and I manage to relax enough for a selfie. Back down and we end up back where we started. We've missed the Kung fu show but are lucky to spy about 200 boys practicing Kung fu. We sneak in (as inconspicuously as the three foreigners can) and watch for a good ten minutes. It's mesmerising and indicative of the discipline China’s children possess. On the way to and from Luoyang city, we pass through the villages I've been keen to see… it's nearing dusk and kids are out playing amongst the rubble, parents are winding up their stalls for the day, sweeping away mounds of rubbish; elderly members of the community are sitting on plastic chairs just content to watch the traffic roll by. Rested and recharged, the next day, we gear up for a trip to the renowned Longmen Grottoes. It’s a 45 minute drive from the cities (but just FYI from the train station, just ten minutes)…. Again, our newly inherited travelling complacency doesn't bode well in 35 degree heat, but after getting some Chinese out with ‘slightly’ more success, we find ourselves walking for at least 30 minutes to reach the grottoes on the other side of the river. Stretched over a kilometre, there are more than 2000 caves and niches carved into the stone. These amazing statues of Buddha and his disciples are carved into limestone rock on the side of the cliff and their sheer size and the detail make it impossible to be unimpressed. Carved over centuries, the style of sculptures change significantly. Just when it seems like the intensity of the sun will sap the last of our energy, curiosity and another ice block gives us the strength to climb these extremely steep steps! Tag teaming it up to see what all the fuss is about, at the top, it's definitely worth the effort. (My Fitbit would agree if the battery hadn’t died.) At the end of the spectacle though, it's with much relief that we can take a boat ride back to the start. Sightseeing almost over for these three Amigos, a 45 minute ride on the high speed rail later and we're in Zhengzhou, our stop for the night - a city of 9 million! A gigantic concrete jungle, Zhengzhou is the capital of Henan Province. It's one of the nation's major industrial cities and has become known as a rail hub, you can travel virtually anywhere in China from. It's also a huge coal mining area. Hello pollution! And of course, just to make sure we don't forget we're in China for a second, the ubiquitous rumbling of fireworks can be heard across the morning sky. So, after an action-packed weekend of adventure -- peering at buddhas, grottoes, kung fu and chaotic concrete jungles -- it was time to travel at high speed back to Xi’an…our own pocket of madness in the Middle Kingdom, where the adventures just keep on coming. This is China. Info: Train Tickets Xi’an to Louyang 174.50RMB Luoyang to Zhengzhou 101.25RMB Zhengzhou to Xi’an 239RMB Children half price Entry Fees Shaolin Temple 150RMB - shuttle buggy 25RMB Cable car 50RMB Longmen Grottoes 100RMB plus shuttle bus, if need to get into the site from the entry point. Ice-blocks (Around 10RMB) ;) … [Read more...]
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