Until I started posting pictures of our time in Lhasa on various social media platforms, call me naive, but I hadn’t realised just how much this spot, tucked high up on the northern side of the Himalayas was shrouded in mystery. Few people I know have travelled to Tibet and few are familiar with its rocky, rugged mountain-scape, vibrant city landmarks and peaceful and relaxed culture. Only open to tourists since 1986, people are clambering for an insight into this faraway land, which while it has been at the centre of a territory dispute for decades is still largely unknown territory. Today, an autonomous region of China - for obvious reasons, I’m not going to get political in this post, other than to say we were welcomed by all of the locals (Tibetan and Han Chinese) with open arms and smiling faces. Instead, I’ll try to paint picture of what, for us, was an incredible, once in a lifetime experience at the place they call “The rooftop of the world.” First, a few quick facts: 90 per cent of people in Tibet are ethnic Tibetan Buddhists. They have roamed this harsh and unique part of the earth for some 21,000 years. Tibet is on the Tibetan Plateau, the highest region on earth and spans over 1,200,000 square kilometres! Comparably its population is small. Just over 3-million. Lhasa is the capital and stands at 3,610 metres above sea level. (That’s 11,840 feet!) Mount Everest the world’s tallest mountain holds stake on the border of Tibet and Nepal and is about 700 kilometres away from Lhasa, (so no, unfortunately we didn’t make it to the mighty mountain). Despite, many articles encouraging us to catch the train to Lhasa, in order to acclimatise along the way for our Tibet tour — experienced and long time visitors to Tibet, insisted flying would be less taxing on our bodies, therefore making us less susceptible to altitude sickness. Because of its height above sea level, the air is thinner, leaving you less oxygen to breathe (In fact: Once you move above about 13,000 feet, oxygen levels are only sixty percent of those at sea levels) and our bodies need to make a lot of changes to cope with this new environment. So with time of the essence we were happy to take the three hour flight from Xi’an. As we drew closer to Lhasa, peeking out the aeroplane window had me in awe; jagged, mountainous ranges stretched out for miles before us in all their golden glory! Arriving at the airport was reasonably straightforward; after collecting our bags, we were ‘scanned out’ of the airport by local military. Here we had to show our permits to tour in Tibet. No one is allowed in the arrival area, so our tour guide ‘Lobsang’ was waiting patiently outside for us. To tour Tibet, you must have a permit and a tour guide with a pretty solid itinerary from the travel agent - but I’ll explain more on that later. Outside, we were immediately taken aback by the blinding sunlight and the brilliant, piercing blue sky. Standing on the roof of the world felt fresh and despite the crisp autumn temperatures, the sunshine was warm on our shoulders. The drive to Lhasa was about forty minutes and to my surprise, the entire way, craggy, boulder-like mountains flanked either side of us. We went smoothly through one military check point, where our passports and permits were checked and then on to the city. At first glance, Lhasa didn’t seem too different to other cities we’ve experience in China. Three wheeler Tuk Tuks, motorbikes piled high with people and paraphernalia, street stalls, ramshackle laneways and neon signs (the one obvious difference, Tibetan writing on the top and Chinese on the bottom). It didn’t take long though, to work out, that beneath the surface, Tibet is an entirely different kettle of fish. Apart from hotel brands, there are virtually zero western brands; the likes of McDonalds, Starbucks etc that you see cropping up all over China are yet to penetrate this peaceful plateau. We were welcomed with a small traditional ceremony, including being gifted these white, silk prayer scarfs (the first of many we came across)! To combat altitude sickness we were advised to take it very slowly on the first day. i.e use as little energy as possible! This meant we got to hang out in the hotel for the entire afternoon. Clearly I’m no expert, but altitude sickness is definitely not to be taken lightly. People have become very sick and some have even died. There seems to be no rhyme or reason as to who is affected and who isn’t; gender, age and fitness seemingly have no bearings on your ability to cope. Ultimately you need to listen to your body and abide by the rules….go slow, no drinking or smoking for the first 24 hours (at least), no shower or bath on first night (because apparently this uses more oxygen) and drink plenty of water, in fact, double the amount you would normally have. (Oh and don’t be alarmed at exploding deodorant bottles and/or the like.) ;) In most hotel rooms you should find oxygen and while some experts advise only to take this if you feel sick (headaches, nausea, dizziness etc) we were advised by some long timers to take it before, as a precaution, so that we did! (With no drinking on holidays, what else is a girl to do!! ;) ) We also took altitude sickness tablets, given to us by our reputable Hong Kong doctor. (These are called Diamox.) They’re not for children, but doctors say children tend to suffer less from altitude sickness. (In fact, a new study published in the journal, Paediatrics, suggest that otherwise healthy children’s symptoms are usually pretty mild.) In our Small Person’s case, thankfully this appeared to be true. She was firing on all cylinders, at all times! As for the Tibetans? Research reveals they have a ‘super athlete’ high altitude gene to cope. Day 2: It’s a lazy morning, loafing around the hotel, exploring every nook and cranny, laden with Tibetan artefacts and interesting art work, before heading out to sight-see after lunch. At this stage we’re all feeling pretty good. Perhaps a little light-headed if anything, a little stuffy, a little lizard like from the dry conditions, but nothing to write home about. It’s another striking day, the sky a deep, deep blue with puffy white clouds skidding across the roof of the world. First stop, the Sera Monastery. Found in 1419, it’s also known as the "Wild Roses Monastery" it’s one of the "great three" schools of Tibetan Buddhism. (A Gelugpa Monastic College, for those in the know and like many of Tibet’s monasteries has undergone rebuilding and renovations over the years.) Arriving, it feels like we really have been transported to another world. Many local women are dressed in their colourful, traditional Tibetan costumes, which we soon find out is par for the course across the city. (The colourful, striped woven aprons signifying ‘marriage’.) Monks roam randomly (and in what is a slightly bizarre sign of the times, many are carrying mobile phones). Everybody seems keen to touch our small person and grab a picture of her. If we thought the paparazzi action in Xi’an was intense, this is even more so! For all intents and purposes, few foreigners come to Tibet, especially small ones. Like it or not, Ava is thus the star attraction. As we amble up the small slope, I feel myself a little out of breath, puffing a little heavier (due to the altitude)… but it’s the sights and sounds that literally take our breath away. Dozens of wild, mangy dogs lie lazily at the front of the Monks’ quarters which are almost European looking with their ivory stone with bright yellow awnings. Apparently it’s the only place the canines can get a decent feed and are looked after. We follow the crowds of locals and tourists who are heading up in their droves to the temple. We notice many of them on the way back down have strange ‘black marks’ etched down their noses or across their foreheads. Mostly the children. A little further up and there’s a queue stretching back around the block of the main temple. Here we’re told pilgrims come to see the main image in the monastery known as Tamdrin or “Haryagriva” (the horse-headed deity). The mark is from the butter light lamps and is a blessing from the Haryagriva. It’s believed this will bring children a long and healthy life (and ironically help them sleep soundly at night). Of course, I try desperately to convince my small person to have a go, but she isn’t having a bar of it! (Five years of rough sleep? What’s a few more she says!). She does, however convince us to buy her, her own ‘special’ necklace in the temple and appeases us with a few pics with the ‘blessed’ kids. Inside the temple, stunning golden statues shine brightly in the dimly lit halls, the smell of smouldering incense wafts into the air and brightly coloured cloth drapes from pillars. Lobsang proudly shows us what are treasured scriptures written in Tibetan and printed on wooden blocks covered with gold powder and engraved with red lacquer, locked safely in a tall glass case before us. I spy the Monks’ rich red robes left idle on the bench seats - it’s as if they’ve just been shrugged off after prayer time. Stepping outside the temple and into the main courtyard, we stumble across what looks like some sort of ringside show. Crowds of people are gathered around the outside of the courtyard, eagerly watching on. We perch on the edge and see about one hundred monks in pairs, chanting animatedly with each other, along with what looks to be a ‘slapping’ frenzy! We discover it’s ‘debate time’ (and fortunately, they’re not actually slapping each other). This is a highlight, strictly unique to this monastery. Young monks in training come here most afternoons to debate with each other in what is considered integral to learning the Buddhist philosophy. Intrigued we watch this strange but captivating routine take place for about 15 minutes. Lobsang tells us that while there used to be around 5000 monks at the monastery, the numbers have dwindled to around 500. Next stop is the Summer Palace or ‘Norbulingka’ or the Jewelled Park. Built for the 7th Dalai Lama in the 1700’s, we’re told it later became the summer home for all successive Dalai Lamas, including the 14th and current Dalai Lama until his exile in 1959. Blossoming with flowers in every hue, the palace has a garden area of around 360,000 square metres. It’s the biggest man-made garden in Tibet! Inside there are 374 rooms, from halls for worshipping Buddha, to reading rooms, meditation rooms, business rooms, bedrooms and bathrooms, which are all ablaze with vivid colours, from floor to ceiling! We are privileged to see where the Dalai Lama slept and the small person exclaims loudly how small his bed is! In Tibet, it soon becomes evident that colour holds huge significance and each of the five primary colours (blue, white, red, green and yellow) hold specific meanings. Known as the Five Pure Lights, each colour represents a state of mind, a celestial Buddha, a body party and a party of the mantra word Hum. Hence the thousands of colourful silk prayer flags that make a vibrant and frequently-seen sight across the city! We enjoy a quiet evening on the hotel balcony overlooking the magnificent Potala Palace, in preparation and anticipation of climbing it the next day! Lobsang tells us to reserve our energy for the 300 steps! Day 3: First up though, the famous Jokhang Temple. Just when you think you’ve possibly seen enough temples, we’re pleasantly surprised! They’re all uniquely different and incredible spectacles in their own right. Jokhang is down in the centre of the city near the Bazaar markets in Barkhor Square, which gives us firsthand experience of the locals in action. The square is buzzing with people… many of them spinning prayer wheels and prayer beads, softly humming mantras to themselves…..and for us, it’s hard to know where to look! Every which way is a sight to behold. This tall, multi-coloured prayer flag a monumental city centrepiece! Jokhang Temple is considered the most sacred and holiest site in Tibet — built for King Songtsen Gampo’s two wives (one Nepalese and one Chinese) the King is credited with first introducing Buddhism to Tibet. Outside hundreds of pilgrims gather for prayer time, many of them doing what are called ‘full-body prostrations’. They take three steps, stop, get down on their knees and then their hands and stretch out flat on their stomachs, touching their foreheads to the ground, before standing back up. Some do as few as three, some as many as 500 per day. Everyone has their own mat, and on their hands, blocks to make sliding easier. The women’s legs are tied near the bottom, no doubt making for easier sliding. Not for the faint-hearted it looks like an energetic task, but at the heart of it is a deep spiritual practice to purify the bad karma. We step inside the temple — confronted again by a plethora of rich, bold colours cascading from the roof to the floor, in the shape of murals, sculptures and statues. We squeeze through the worshippers admiring the setting and then climb up steep stairs, emerging onto the rooftop and what feels like a scene straight out of the Mediterranean, except instead of overlooking the azure blue sea, from this golden rooftop - a 360 degree view of spectacular mountain peaks. Later, we spend time wandering through the masses and the mazes that make up the Bazaar, the oldest streets in Lhasa.… Almost everyone who passes seems taken aback by the three of us (who can blame them), ;P but mostly by the Small Person…we’ve played right into the locals hands and had our hair braided with colourful cotton in the mall, so we really have no hope of remaining incognito! All of the locals wear floppy hats and I notice, many of them still have the ubiquitous flushed, red cheeks. Some tells us it’s the lack of vegetables this meat-eating culture has had access to in the past. More research and I find out it’s due to the high elevation, intense ultra-violet rays and extreme temperature difference between the days and nights. The narrow lane ways shadowed by traditional tibetan homes lead to markets piled high with lumps of yak meat, and pounds of yak butter for sale! The mighty Yak is unique to the Tibetan Plateau and has played a significant role in Tibetan’s daily lives for thousands of years. Locals eat the meat, drink the milk and make yak cheese, butter, yoghurt and tea. It’s also used as offerings to help burn traditional butter lamps in monasteries. The outer hair of the yak is woven into tent fabric and rope, and the soft inner wool is spun into a type of felt. Yak hide is used for the soles of boots and yak dung is a fundamental fuel. Trivial Fact: Yaks have three times more red blood cells than normal cows so they are able to live without any problems on the high elevation. There are rows upon rows of cluttered market stalls selling everything from beads to boots, thick carpets, even extra long hair braids, should you require one! Later that day we get our time for the famous Potala Palace. (There’s now a quota on the number of daily visitors and the travel agent must register you and passports need to be shown on arrival. From the time you enter the palace, you have exactly one hour to see everything.) We have been looking on in awe at Lhasa’s most iconic landmark from our hotel room for the past two days. As the sun rises over it in the morning to its brightly lit facade at night, this world heritage site is a remarkable piece of architecture. For the Small Person it could easily be a castle straight out of her favourite fairytale. As Chief Residence for the Dalai Lamas during the winter, the palace has 1000 rooms, 10,000 shrines and about 200,000 statues…. It’s construction began in 1645 by the 5th Dalai Lama, it’s sloping stone walls average three metres thick, and five metres thick at the base. It has copper poured into the foundations to help proof it against earthquakes. Roaming the hallways, I can imagine it gets cold in Tibet’s harsh winters. Climbing the 300 steps to the top, at 12,000 feet altitude is no mean feat! The Small Person though is literally skipping to the top. Inside is a literal treasure trove of shrines and thrones, what impresses me most are the tombs of some of the Dalai Lama. That of the 7th Dalai Lama who is seen as “The Great One” is encased in over 4000 kilograms of gold!! In what is probably one of the most poignant moments of our journey, when we enter one of the oldest and most sacred rooms in the palace, we are overwhelmed and humbled when a monk spies our Small Person amongst the hoards of tourists and comes over to bestow on her a yellow, silk prayer scarf. In the spirit of offering he ties it around her neck in a symbol of long life. It’s one of those moments you know is to be forever treasured. On a high, literally, we come down to ground level with a majestic thud. Day 4: We are deemed suitably acclimatised to drive high up into the mountains. Small Person’s biggest hope is to see a real, live Yak. Fortunately, we see plenty as the car steadily climbs the steep hill. The big, hairy beasts are dotted across the mountain farms, jingling their cow bells. A little later, we come to a halt on the side of the road and are enthralled by what can only be described as an incredible rainbow rooftop under a vibrant blue sky! Thousands of prayer flags make up this giant kaleidoscope of colour! Draped across the highway, they are a splash of colour against the coarse mountain side. We continue the journey, zig-zagging all the way up into the mountains to the “Drak Yerpa” where we see some of the oldest spiritual sites in Tibet! We’re a little reluctant and apprehensive when Lobsang tells us matter of factly, we are going to climb up to that temple! Yes! That one - up there!! If we thought climbing up to the Potala Palace was a steep trek, this is much tougher. With the attitude now at almost 5000 metres (14000 feet), the struggle is real. Huffing and puffing our way up, we eventually make it to the top and again, this place, described as the “life tree” or “spiritual axis of Lhasa” is truly worth the effort. With very few tourists, it’s reminiscent of a tiny village perched on the side of the limestone cliffs. We see local monks and residents quietly going about their day. We get to peek inside several tiny meditation caves, hermitages and shrines that are slowly being restored after being damaged during the Cultural Revolution. Our guide is spectacular at keeping the Small Person enthralled with the different Buddhas…at one point, they roam from temple to temple counting the auspicious, gold water offering bowls at each alter, while we can’t get enough of the scenery before us. There’s no doubt, Tibet is place that has captured each of our souls. An exotic, spiritual and remarkable spot at the top of the world, where despite all that has happened, centuries old traditions remain and time stands still. This is Tibet. Tour Tibet (One of the reasons we were able to travel to Tibet with relative ease is because the owners of the Westin Xi’an also own the St Regis Hotel in Lhasa. The team’s help naturally made it immeasurably easier for us to source what we needed.) What you need to know: A Special Permit to enter if you are a foreign citizen, an overseas Chinese citizen without a Chinese passport, or a Taiwanese Citizen. (Allow three weeks for this.) The permit is no cost but expect a charge from your travel agency for arranging the permits. Chinese Visa If you are working in China, the following is required: 1) a current Residence Permit (居留许可证, like a visa in your passport) 2) certification in Chinese from your company/school in China (工作证明, using your company’s letter head, with your name and passport number, and company seal on it). Everyone needs a confirmed itinerary with an approved Tibet Tour Operator + a tour guide. (You can either travel in a tour group or one man guided tour.) We used St Regis Hotel’s in-house travel agency - Green Source Travel Service Ltd. Driver/Car An Aliens' Travel Permit is required to travel to most areas outside Lhasa. You can only obtain it after you arrive in Tibet Costs: Tibet is not a cheap destination to fly to. Flights from within mainland China can be anywhere from RMB1500 to RMB4000, so it pays to choose your travel times and avoid peak season. *Tibet is closed to tourists in February/March. Transportation/driver from pick up and drop off at the airport to travelling around Lhasa x 5 days RMB4500 Tour Guide x 3 days (including pick up and drop off at airport) RMB2,500 Where to Go: There are a number of tours to Tibet - check this link. Individual sites include: Drepung Monastery: CNY55 Opening Hours: 9am-5pm -- With an area of more than 200,000 m2, Drepung meaning “Rice Heap” in Tibetan, has been the largest and richest Monastery with lots of cultural and religious relics in Tibet since its founding. It used to be the residence of the Dalai Lama, prior to the Potala Palace. Sera Monastery: CNY55 Opening Hours 9am-4pm -- The Monastery is now residence for several hundred Lamas and a major training centre. Its famous debating activities are happening at 3 – 4pm most days. Summer Palace/Norbulingka: CNY80 - Opening Hours: 09:00 to 12:00 in the morning, 15: 00 to 16:00 in the afternoon -- Norbulingka Means “Treasure Park” in Tibetan, with 374 rooms and more then 30,000 cultural relics inside, blends gardening with architecture and sculpture arts. It used to be the summer residence of the Dalai Lama until its opening to the public in 1959. Tibet Museum: Free (closed Monday’s) The museum is located in the southeast corner of Norbulingka. Covering an area of 53,959 square meters it is the first museum with modern facilities in all of Tibet. The Tibet Museum consists of a prelude hall, main exhibit halls and a cultural relic storeroom. The entire building presents distinctive characteristics of traditional Tibetan architectural art. Jokhang Temple CNY85 Opening Hours: 7am-12pm and 3pm-6:30pm. It is a huge complex building with a combination of Tibetan elements meshed with influences from Nepal, China and India. As the holiest site in Tibet, it holds all major Buddhist ceremonies and the Temple is filled with prostrate pilgrims praying on its open porch. Bharkhor Bazaar -- It is the oldest street in Lhasa, as well as the most representative. It is a place full of religious atmosphere and a world of exotic articles. Traditional Tibetan houses and narrow lanes in and around the street whisper the stories of old Lhasa. Potala Palace Opening Hours: 08:40 to 17:00 (visitors are not allowed to enter at 16:00)Tickets are sold from 08:40 to 16:00. Majestically situated on the escarpment of Red Hill, the highest ancient Palace in the world, Potala is not only a Tibetan architectural wonder but also a treasure house for material and articles of Tibetan History, religion, culture and arts. During the high season (May 1 to October 31), all visitors are required to apply for reservation tickets with their valid identity documents, such as ID cards and passports one day in advance before they visit the palace. Each valid ID document can be used only once within a week. The visiting date and exact time, number of visitors and ID document numbers are printed on the reservation tickets. Visitors have to visit the palace at the given date and time. They should go to the main gate to have their reservation tickets and ID documents checked and walk to the ticket office in front of the White Palace to buy the entrance tickets. Then they can start their tour after another security check. Cost: May 1 to October 31: CNY 200; November 1 to April 30: CNY 100 **Tips: Only 4000 tickets are issued each day and about 100 tickets are issued every 20 minutes. Any kind of liquid is not allowed there, including beverages and mineral water, which yet can be purchase at a cost of CNY10 for one bottle at the hill top. Yamdrok Lake RMB40 — 5 hour round trip driving. The lake is located at Nangartse County aside the highway between Lhasa and Gyangtse, 110km away from Lhasa. Yamdrok Yumtso is a normally first seen from the summit of Kamba-la (4900m).The lake lies several hundred meters below the road, and in clear weather is a fabulous shade of deep turquoise. Far in the distance is the huge massif of Mt Nojin Kangtsang(7191m) lakes are considered sacred by Tibetan people, the principle being that they are the dwelling places of protective deities and therefore invested with special spiritual powers. Yamdrok Lake is one of three particularly holy lakes. It is surrounded by snow-capped mountains and fed by numerous small Himalayan streams. The water is the main fresh water source for people in Lhasa, even entire Tibet. Drak Yerpa Temple/Zhayeba Monastery RMB25 Drak Yerpa is located on a hillside in Daze County. The entrance to the Yerpa Valley is about 16 kilometres northeast of Lhasa, from here, it is another 10 kilometres to the famous ancient meditation caves in the spectacular limestone cliffs of the Yerpa Valley. WHERE TO STAY Many hotels close during winter, but otherwise there are an increasing number of places to stay **Obviously you need to abide by the Buddhist customs inside the temples. No hat, covered shoulders. … [Read more...]
The Backbone of China: Meet My New Friend – A 93 Year Old War Veteran
It's 9am, I’ve dropped the small person at school and I've picked up my good friend and ‘fan yi’ (translator)… When I say “I” — y’all know by now, I'm not actually driving, right? I think we’ve established that driving in China, for a foreigner like me, would be particularly hazardous on all fronts! So, it's our hotel driver who battles through the elements for us: rain, bumper to bumper traffic in the shape of vehicles big and small - a symphony of horns and random street walkers - to an area of town I haven't been in before. We're meeting ‘Elsa’ who so far, I've only encountered via text message. I've got absolutely no idea what to expect, but the element of surprise is something I’ve become rather accustomed to in China. In the name of 'book research' I asked around about interviewing some of the older locals. The ones who’ve really experienced the ‘changing China’ in all its glory: the good, the bad, the ugly, the beautiful! Through various contacts, 93 year old War Veteran Wang Shao Wu is put to me as a potential interviewee. I politely ask Elsa whether he's a good talker and how well he can hear. She assures me, he is old but he's smart and can talk under water! How can a girl say no? Elsa suggests I bring something small from my home country as a gift! Ahhh now you’ve got me… I scrounge around the house looking for stuffed koalas and Tim Tams, to no avail, making a mental note to bring back Aussie souvenirs! Think about stealing small person’s stuffed toys but know it will potentially invoke world war three. Decide it will have to be a combination of chocolates from Scotland and jam from Portugal… yeh.. I know…… Well I do hail from a Scottish clan! And then fruits! The mighty fruit platter is one of the most prestigious things you can take to a person’s home in China! Forget about wine and flowers. Fruits will automatically elevate you to elite visitor status. Arriving…in a slightly ramshackle part of town outside several blocks of apartments, Elsa informs me she's running very late but we could meet some other “friends” there who will escort us in. I'm not sure just how many people are coming to take part, but it seems we'll have an audience. Standing outside we are confronted by a couple of people wielding cameras who smile and look like our guys! They take us through some gates past a few people sleeping, we jump in a rickety old lift and arrive outside the ubiquitous red door…the entrance to their home. Mr Wang and his wife greet us with open arms and big smiles. Of course, a loud cacophony of voices erupts at once, everyone speaking rapidly in Chinese. All I can do is smile, nod enthusiastically and offer my 'fruits'. In what is a typical Chinese home, it’s a simple three bedroom apartment. I find myself scouring the room, trying to soak in a life time of living! So many little things that make up this family’s home or as he later tells me, his “mansion!” Even though things are worn, cabinets broken, boxes double as shelves, trinkets and bits and pieces occupy every nook and cranny, this is clearly a home filled with love (lots of plants and a few bottles of Baijiu in the corner)! We’re ushered onto a big, old, brown leather couch, ripped in places…but decidedly comfy. It’s clearly the centrepiece of the house - a coffee table sits adjacent, laden with bowls of sunflower seeds and of course the fruits and never ending glasses of warm tea. Mr Wang keeps touching my shoulder and smiling. I can’t help but reciprocate….his demeanour is charming and friendly and language is no barrier. I’m told again and again he’s extremely honoured to have us in his house, to which I obviously reply, it’s definitely the other way around. He disappears for a few minutes while we are getting organised and reappears - his medals pinned proudly on his chest. We sit down - me sandwiched between him and his wife….87 year old Nai Nai, as she’s affectionately called, which means grandmother in English. She keeps putting her hand on my knee. Nai Nai keeps asking if I’m cold. I'm sleeveless and she’s concerned. It’s 30 degrees out though and there’s no air-conditioning in the apartment. I reassure her I’m just fine. I set my phone to record and we’re away. (So much easier than a television interview!) Chao who has the arduous task of translating explains what we are hoping to talk about and it was as if the starter gun had fired and he was off… Elsa was right. There was no stopping him, literally. Born in 1924 this is a man who has seen China transform through the ages. A man who went to war against Japan in 1939 when he was just 15 years old. It was a time when China was on the brink of collapse. He passionately tells us how he had just one pair of shoes made from straw and that when he joined the army, he was given the choice of a blanket or a big overcoat. He proudly tells us he chose the overcoat believing he could wear it during the day and use it as a blanket at night. Bonus! He chokes up, telling me it was a time when Chinese people were afraid of nothing, so tough, united and determined to protect their country. Winters in north west China are brutal to say the least, and his time as a soldier was cut short when he got frostbite… unable to keep marching, the local villagers kindly gave him a donkey to ride to the next post. Then…. in what catches us all by surprise, he tells us how he went on to become a 'singer' in the army…. singing Qing Opera…one of China’s most popular forms of drama and music theatre that stems back more than a thousand years. At the time it was seen as a powerful tool in building cultural nationalism. He became part of a special army unit performing around the country for the troops in a bid to inspire them. In 1943, he was dismissed and it was time to return to normal life; that meant working in China's famous Salt Bureau. By now… Ye Ye (Grandpa) is on a roll… so I leave him and Chao to 'talk turkey' in mandarin. I ask Nai Nai what she thinks the secret to a successful marriage is. After all she’s clocked up 60 years. On cue, she digs out some old photos and says it’s being kind, tolerant…and not quarrelling. She tells me that he was poor when she met him and her family didn’t agree on the marriage, but she married him anyway. (Extremely progressive, I think, in a society that still places great emphasis on parental approval!) And the secret to longevity?…Having your children around, she says matter of factly. In fact, I find out one of her grandsons and his wife and five year old child - their great grandchild - also live in this tiny apartment with them. I think to myself -- along with people like Wang Shao Wu, family is the backbone of China. Whilst their grandchildren have enough money to buy their own house, they choose to stay with Nai Nai and Ye Ye and look after them. In China there still aren't many retirement homes. It’s expected your children will look after you in old age. At 87 she says she tells me, she still tries her best to cook breakfast for her family everyday. I'm impressed! I ask Wang about the Cultural Revolution in the sixties and seventies under Chairman Mao Zedong, he tells me how he was persecuted but he understands why it happened and that it was "for the good of China." I ask him about China opening up its economy to the world for the first time in 1980, was it a good decision? He believes it's improved the image of the country and people’s lives greatly! He tells me that before this they would only eat meat once a year. "Food was rationed. Now China is getting better and better. His children have been to university, and they live in this great mansion," he says….gesturing happily around him. He tells me before 1979, eight family members lived in a 12 square metre straw house. At the time of our interview China is hosting the G20 summit for the first time in history. He’s elated. Ultimately, he says, he fought for his country to be what it is today! In his eyes, China stands strong, a stoic symbol of 5000 years of tradition and culture. He’s recently had his story recorded in a book on the last of the Chinese soldiers and he proudly asks if I would like a copy. I would be honoured, I say. His hands shaking, he takes great care writing my name in Chinese characters. He wishes me all the best in life and good health and wishes my country prosperity and happiness. This is China. … [Read more...]
The Hawaii of the East! Is Sanya a Hidden Gem in China’s Crown?
We’d only been in the air 2.5 hours and we were touching down in what felt like ‘a world away’ from Xi’an. The sky was clear, the air was warm and thick with humidity …. a blanket of lush palm trees stretched out as far as the eye could see. My heart lifted…possibly the only problem I’d face on this holiday was an unsuspected falling coconut. China and the tropics aren’t two words you would usually put together, right? China’s all about being a contrast of strapping concrete jungles and ramshackle villages, often side by side….the old and the new….the Ferraris and the Tuk Tuks, all cobbled together to make up the world’s biggest and busiest population. Nestled in China’s south west, in Hainan Province, Sanya it seems, is an exception to China’s manic rule. Looking more like Australia’s Gold Coast 40 years ago, our 30 minute drive to the hotel cut a path through the dense palm fronds; I was almost relieved to see a few three-wheelers chugging by, a couple of motorbikes saddled with entire families and some scruffy street food stalls on the corner. It was still China. Albeit - China’s Hawaii. Perched as far north from the equator as Hawaii, Sanya is on the southern tip of Hainan Island, flanked with a 20 kilometre stretch of sandy beaches. Due to its remoteness from the political centres during Imperial China, Sanya was often called ‘Tian Ya Hai Jiao’ (天涯海角) "the end of the sky and ocean" or "the end of the earth.” Consequently, it served as a place of exile for officials who found themselves ‘out of favour’ with the country’s rulers. Just quietly, it didn’t look like a bad corner of the world to be placed in captivity! Warm all year round — the coolest in January with an average of around 21 degrees, and the hottest, a balmy June with an average of 29. These days, Sanya’s singing to a different tune… It played host to the first leg of the 2008 Beijing Olympics torch relay, not to mention the 2015 Miss World pageant! And it’s the training centre of choice for the Chinese Beach Volley Ball team. Long before this though, the Nanshan Temple constructed in 1988 on the site of ancient Tang Dynasty remains to commemorate 2000 years of Buddhism in China was capable of drawing its own visitors — Monks contemplating the universe from the Seawatch Terrace, at the edge of Chinese civilisation. Oh and this...one of the tallest statues in the world! Called the Guan Yin of the South Sea of Sanya, it’s a 108 metre tall Buddhist statue studded in gold, silver and diamonds! Impressive huh? It seems, China has unearthed it’s pearl in the ocean for everyone to see. Today it’s jam-packed with hundreds of hotels, from the cheapest hostel to the six-star variety….it’s the holiday spot for around ten million tourists each year. Currently, most of them are locals…..especially in winter! Many from the north of China (including desperate foreigners like us) and Russians who like to come in their droves to escape the freezing arctic winters. Those numbers are expected to increase to 20 million by 2018, with overseas visitors reaching one million, making Sanya the largest international tourism hub in South China. Thomas Cook has even grabbed a slice of the action, signing a deal to create new travel packages direct from the UK. This influx of tourists has, as you might expect, seen Sanya face a few expected challenges. Lack of infrastructure being one of them, difficulty in reaching the location due to limited flights and airport capacity, traffic and road safety, pollution of the beaches and most importantly a shortage of quality hospitality talent to service 250+ hotels. But that isn’t slowing down the rapid expansion! Giant, sleek high-rises are under construction from every angle, reaching up into sunny skies. We stayed at the Sheraton and whilst we didn’t see too many other foreigners, when it comes to pool hopping, it seems the locals like to keep to themselves, for the most part, anyway. You could be forgiven for thinking we actually had the resort to ourselves! Yep, just us! No doubt looking highly dubious in our ‘boardies’ and bikinis, schlepping from one pool to the next for much of the day or lolling about on the beach, under the softly swaying palm trees, watching the jet skis lay idle, as the sea softly rolls in.... For the record, most Chinese don’t like to be in the sun for too long (sensible if you ask me). The very fact that we ordered lunch by the pool had the pool-boys in a slight frenzy… clearly this is not a regular occurrence. You can take China to the tropics but cocktails by the pool is still a bit of an enigma around these parts. Hence we went BYO. Of course, I’m always on the job, researching for the book — so it was with keen eyes, I witnessed the locals in true ‘holiday mode’. For many Chinese, going away for a holiday is a relatively new concept, especially a 'resort-style' vacation. Generally, locals like to come down to the pool early in the day and then come back again later -- when the sun is starting to subside. Their stints at the pool are usually conducted at lightening speed! Everyone comes at once and it’s chaos. There’s grandma, granddad, mum and dad, babies, kids, friends…everyone having a quick dip…often wearing a giant ‘floatie’ device (many Chinese can’t swim). Unicorns, swans, crocodiles take your pick…there are a myriad of giant floaties up for to hire. After a brief splash and a few happy snaps…no sooner had they arrived, they’d gone again. Just like that. And we were back to floating solo. But don’t be fooled into thinking the resort is empty. Make it to the buffet for breakfast in the morning and the place is heaving. Lunchtime and the Chinese restaurant is bustling. For many locals, the chance to relax in a decadent hotel room on a hot and humid day is no doubt far more appealing, than scorching themselves by the pool like those er, silly foreigners! If you’re feeling more energetic than some….my insider tips tell me - there’s plenty of opportunity for water sports like scuba diving (just make sure the operators are certified) jet skiing, surfing and snorkelling. WuZhiZhao Island is a popular haven for water sports with its crystal clear seas, pristine beaches and coral reefs. DaDongHai is where it all started in Sanya and is home to shopping malls and restaurants, including the recommended American style sports bar ‘Dolphin.’ There's even an opportunity to shop, when lazing around the pool all gets a bit too much! ;-) The Government knows its market well and has backed a tourism conglomerate in setting up the world’s largest duty free shopping centre. Brandishing 72,000 square metres of luxury goods bearing the the latest brand names, all you need to get in on the actions is proof of a plane ticket leaving Hainan. Pick up your goods at the airport when you say Zai Jian! There is an 8,000 yuan (US$1200) per customer spending limit though, I’m told! Tip: During Chinese New Year, it's more than likely, the city will be flooded with tourists and you can expect everything to be extremely expensive, so perhaps not the best time to go! To date, flights operate from most major cities in China, including Hong Kong and Taiwan. There are also seasonal chartered flights to Singapore. So if you want to do very little in the way of…well… anything — you had better jump on the wagon and check out these super flight and holiday deals the guys at Paylesser sent me. They assist travellers like you, by offering a wide range of the latest coupons and offers including hotel discount coupons! (You're welcome!) ;-) Oh and don't forget to try the seafood. Happy Holidays! This is China’s Hawaii! … [Read more...]
The China Dream: A Small Target of $15 Million!
Here in China, forget about Twitter, Facebook and Instagram! They’re all banned! What you have in its place though is We Chat and Weibo. We Chat is a cross between What’s App and Facebook, not to mention a mini wallet! (And just quietly, gives both a run for their money!) Similar to Twitter, translated, 'Weibo' translates as ‘micro-blog’ and is exclusively in Chinese. (Which is a small problem for yours truly, who can’t read a thing!) China has one of the world’s most active social media audience with 600 million people registered on Weibo since it started seven years ago. It’s fair to say, in China, Weibo is the new black! Like it’s western counterpart, Twitter, Weibo has a limit of 140 characters, but Chinese characters! Which of course say a lot more than one letter. Given the internet censorship situation in China, Weibo is controlled by various methods from the ‘powers that be’ and there’s actually a list of blacklisted keywords that will have your posts automatically deleted and/or your account blocked should you breach them! With China now the world’s second largest economy, it’s become a global force to be reckoned with. Given outsiders weren’t really allowed in to China until the 80’s, China and its 1.4 billion people are still an enigma to much of the rest of the world. With netizens having a damn good go at expressing how they’re feeling on Weibo, it's one way to gain an interesting insight into what the people of China are thinking today. So, I thought it might be a good idea to keep you in the loop with what topics are trending on Chinese social media. Think of it as a window into China’s young soul. 8-O My good friend and Chinese local, Chao, is going to keep us updated with regular posts on what’s going down here in the Middle Kingdom. By Chao Huang In China when it comes to Weibo, we’re like moths to a flame! One topic that recently had Weibo in a frenzy was a quote from China’s richest man! His name’s Wang Jianlin and he’s a multi-billionaire who makes 900 million a day. Famous for owning Wanda…. China’s largest real estate developer and a company that is taking over the world in leaps and bounds; if you haven’t heard of them already, you soon will! He’s also the world's largest movie theatre operator and owns 20 per cent of the Spanish football club Atlético Madrid. Last week he went on a celebrity television show and bamboozled viewers around the country when he was asked to give advice on start ups. His answer: “There’s no problem if you want to be on the fortune list, but first you should set an achievable small target, let’s say, for example, you earn 100 million RMB ($15.2 million USD).” Yep you read that right…. 100-million - just a small “achievable” target. Given much of China’s people still live below the poverty line ….it was a slap in the face! Of course, this “friendly advice” together with screen shots of him, instantly went viral on social media. The jokes came thick and fast, one netizen quoting Neil Armstrong, "One small step for Wang, but a giant leap for mankind.” Coincidentally, Jack Ma, the second richest guy in China (Founder and Chairman of e-commerce giant, Alibaba) also sent the internet crazy, saying "The happiest Chinese are the ones that earn only 20,000 to 40,000 Chinese yuan, can afford a little house and car and start a good family!” He went on to say “When (you earn) more than 10 million, the trouble will come; when it’s more than 100 million, the trouble becomes big.” Netizens fired back saying, “I am not afraid of having the trouble, I will start with a “small target” - earn 100 million, and see how much the trouble is!” The average annual salary in China is 5780 RMB a month; Only five per cent of the working class earn more than 8000 RMB a month. You see, that’s how ironic this whole thing is. The gap between the rich and poor is only widening in China. A survey in 2013 found China to be the most unequal society in the world. The top elites often forgot how most people (and I am not even talking about the underdogs or beggars on the street) are striving for money, for being rich, for having “the trouble” of being too rich. In a country that has worked from the ground up, starting all over again from scratch in 1949 (encompassing a time when most people were too poor to eat more than scraps) for the first time ever, China now has a middle class. Albeit a small one. According to Goldman Sachs, less that two per cent of China’s 770 million workers earn enough to pay tax. Both Wang and Ma, are business savvy, hard working, progressive and building mighty business empires through sheer perseverance, but there’s no denying they got lucky! Aged 51 and 61, they both hopped on the speed train after China opened up to the world in 1980 and became heroes. While their cases might be extreme, it’s still the “China Dream” we are all living for after the economy’s reform. The term has became hugely popular under now President Xi. (According to the Communist Party's theoretical journal the Chinese Dream is about Chinese prosperity, collective effort, socialism, and national glory.) When Jack Ma was an English teacher, there was barely a Westerner in China; when he first went to America as a translator on business back in 1995 and discovered the new world of the internet and how people do business on the internet, few people even knew what it was. When he quit his golden job teaching college and loaned money to start up the first e-commerce company in China, people around him said he was a “liar who talks nonsense”. Yet he was on the money. There is no place in the world that has developed as fast as China. Yet while much of the innocent, impoverished and tumultuous country of China was torn up and rebuilt, it has also made way for a different kind of turbulence. So here is what I am talking about: the world's eyes are on China and the rise and rise of the rich Chinese and their taste for luxury goods, including everything from designer labels to over-sized yachts and extravagant parties! But the truth is there are millions of Chinese out there, struggling for a dime to buy food and to find shelter. While statistics show Beijing recently trumped New York as the Billionaire capital of the world, half the population earns around US$2000 a year! Some argue against the amazingly fast paced development, debating if it’s worth the environment being destroyed. Are too many citizens being left behind in China’s wake? Will China slow down to wait for its average citizens to catch up? After all, for the majority living in this country, their small target is definitely not making $15-millon. … [Read more...]
Two Years in China: What I Know Now….
I’ve really struggled to write this post. I’ve procrastinated. Oh how I’ve procrastinated…sometimes choosing washing and window-cleaning over writing! Yes. I know. :roll: It’s just that - how do you sum up two years in this place? How do I describe my feelings without giving you the usual spiel about crazy drivers, squat toilets and constant fireworks erupting into the morning sky? Whilst there probably hasn’t been a day go by in these last two years where I haven’t thought, “What the heck are we doing here?!” - the ancient city of Xi'an, for all its complexities and challenges has become my home away from home, tucked in the middle of the world’s most populous country. This ‘experience’ that we’ve had (and survived) has been beyond even my wildest imagination. I often see pretty, no - make that ‘stunning’ pictures of my old, beloved home towns, Sydney and Hong Kong - on social media - and yearn for their beauty and comfort. But for all their pull, I still wouldn’t swap this journey for all the tea in China. (I know, I’ve used that line before, ironically as the title for my first blog post and two year anniversary in Hong Kong! Want to read it? Here it is.) Of course, the daily obstacles are at best, annoying! At worst, ‘crazy pulling hair out’ inducing! The necessity to stock up, when I’m out of town, with enough medication for any medical emergency that may crop up is constantly exasperating. (Thank goodness for friends who happily share their drugs when you forget an essential item!) The inability to use anything remotely technical (like a computer) with the simple push of a button, torments me. The fortnightly bouts of nausea from food, water, lack of hygiene, or whatever it may be - drains me. The impossibility to find a hairdresser who colours blonde hair or someone to wax my unruly eyebrows and so forth in a city of 9 million frustrates me. My incapability to decipher a full conversation in mandarin after studying the language consistently for two years pains me, as it does the hotelier (and many other expat workers) along with their daily frustrations at managing businesses conducted in a way that is generally foreign to us. The layers of bureaucracy for something as simple as buying groceries or getting a visa both amuse and perplex me. My lack of independence at being unable to drive bothers me and the mental muscle that’s required just to go for a coffee can be exhausting. Winter’s harsh pollution can get you down… and the constant flow of expat friends trailing out of our lives saddens us. Yet for all of these challenges, I have found myself richer in the knowledge and experience of a culture that is far removed from my own. (Not to mention given my sense of humour an incredible work out!) ;) China is a country that is evolving like no other country on the planet. No nation has ever risen as quickly or modernised as rapidly in human history as the Middle Kingdom, that is China. I know we're witnessing a truly fascinating time in history. For all of its economic glory, constant progression and seemingly infallible growth, Zhong Guo (China) is still a developing country. As I try to capture this moment in time for my upcoming book and speak to many locals and expats on the ground, I’m learning so much about these people who are known by many in the western world for little more than their uncouth behaviour when travelling overseas and a soaring economy that is currently only second behind the United States. But it is a country that until just a little over 30 years ago was utterly entrenched in poverty, having endured decades of chaos. While most people had a job, they had little money and basic commodities were scarce. In the late seventies a sign of wealth was having the so called “four big things” - a bike, a radio, a sewing machine and a watch. The People’s Republic of China is run by the Communist Party of China and has been for more than 60 years and while there's been unprecedented change, tradition runs deep. There is still an authoritarian rule from above that commands its people under a banner of glowing media headlines that constantly sing China’s praises. Most people have an overly-inflated view of their home country, which is possibly not a bad thing because the country appears united in its love for ZhongGuo. Most are oblivious to the perils of the Great Fire Wall and insist they are happy to have one party in power. Anything more and there’s a grave fear the country will fall into chaos and disunity. With a 5000 year history firmly etched in their minds, you’ll be hard pressed to find anyone who can’t recite a famous line from one of China's ancient dynasties or rattle off a centuries old poem and you’ll be just as hard pressed to find anyone who doesn’t believe in the powers of warm water. Chairman Mao who infamously ruled China from 1949 to 1978 is generally hailed a hero, despite the atrocities during his reign. His face appears on China’s currency and pictures and statues are easily identifiable around the country. His legend lives on. Education is the lifeblood of Chinese. This nation’s children live and breathe it from the moment they are born until they finish university. In a country of 1.4 billion, it’s considered the only way to get ahead. Despite being the factory floor of the world and churning out almost every product known to mankind, China’s own shop floor is lacking in goods. All is not lost though because almost every one is a mad ‘Taobao’ shopper. An online eBay equivalent, where you can order almost anything you could dream of and at a fraction of the cost. Little Tuk Tuks race all over the city, piled high with parcels to deliver! Despite having more universities than you can count, many who train medical students from all over the world and develop groundbreaking medical practices, the standard of healthcare outside the first tier cities is questionable by western expectations. Some doctors still smoke in hospital corridors, hygiene is debatable and most women have little knowledge about life saving procedures like pap smears. The one child policy has recently been relaxed but abortions at very late stages are still taking place, legally. Busses proudly display large signs advertising the best place to get one. “Don’t feel bad if you are pregnant by accident. Easy to solve if you choose wisely.” The gay and lesbian community is largely underground….(at least in most cities outside the capital). It was only in 2001 when homosexuality was removed from the official list of mental illnesses in China. And political correctness isn’t really a ‘thing’ yet, (as you may have noticed on a recent China Air travel magazine doing the rounds on social media). The gap between the rich and poor is ever increasing…. there is an elite group of Rolls Royce driving, cigar smoking, designer bag-wielding patriots who rule the masses, but overall most of China’s people are still living below the poverty line. But, there’s a but… in their minds they are rich. What they all have now compared to just a few decades ago, when most people could not eat much more than scraps is insurmountable. And it shows. These people are fiercely proud. Family is everything….oh and food! Chinese don’t greet you with how are you? If anything it’s “Chi le ma?” Have you eaten? When they are younger, grandparents take care of their grandchildren full-time, while parents work - often having them live with them. That is a given. The very elderly are automatically taken care of by their children, usually living under the same roof and that is also non negotiable. Society still believes that women should be married by the age of 27 or they’ll be tarnished as ‘leftover’ women. Thankfully, despite the ongoing pressure, most of the young women I know aren’t buying into this anymore! China's other relationship is with ‘Guanxi’ (which translates as ‘relationship or connections’) and is otherwise known as giving money and gifts to solve everything and anything. Guanxi is ingrained in society from the bottom up, in almost every aspect of life. Currently, health and Safety is largely an after thought. Whilst many thousands of years ago this country built things to last for many thousands of years — today they live only for tomorrow. China has admittedly for all intents and purposes been so busy building itself from scratch to become a viable country, it’s only now that it seems they have time to turn around and reflect. Time to start educating the masses on etiquette, hygiene and manners and time to start caring for the environment. You can appreciate, it’s a mammoth task. How do you educate over a billion people? For all of its discrepancies, China is a country where it’s (mostly) safe to walk down the streets at night, people are always happy to help you (unless you are injured and they will steer clear for fear of being held liable) and are often as friendly (and curious) as a new puppy. As much as they admittedly talk in circles and it’s often hard to know what they’re really thinking, we’ve been lucky enough to witness their kindheartedness firsthand and make some special friends. From acupuncturists who make me lunch, to hairdressers who take me for coffee, waitresses who look after my small person and locals who’ve brought me soup when I’ve been sick. To locals who've translated for doctors when my child’s been sick, translated for me many times, at all hours of the day and night and given us gifts beyond their means. People who've basically helped us adjust to life in a foreign country. There is an enduring innocence, in a place where Tai Chi, Calligraphy and Mahjong are still the hobbies of the day. Most have never travelled overseas (only six per cent have a passport) but as the country grows along with people's individual wealth, they are now starting to embrace their newfound wings. This is nation of people who are emerging like butterflies from a cocoon, ready to fly…. But you can rest assured, they will always come back to their nest. Two years in, this is what I know now. This is China. … [Read more...]
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